Free Amigurumi Easter Bunny & Egg Crochet Pattern
Scroll down further for pattern in full and more photos.
This pattern is available as a FREE PDF pattern in both UK and US terms for my lovely Chums Gang Mailing List - join the Chums Gang below to access free PDFs of ALL the mycrochetchums Free Patterns!
|
How it works...
Chums Gang Mailing Listers receive a link to the latest PDF by email before the pattern appears on the website - they can also access free printable PDFs of all the other free patterns from that link. The Chums Gang also gets a discount on each new Premium Pattern the month it's released plus other offers from time to time through the year. I usually email once a month - when I've come up with a new pattern - don't worry, I won't spam you! You will be sent a Welcome email, usually within 24 hours, please check your Spam and please do email me [email protected] if nothing arrives. Happy Crocheting!🧶❤️ ps: You only need to fill the form in once, not for each pattern you want a PDF of 😀 |
|
Let's get started...
Yarn
Scheepjes Catona 4 ply 100% Cotton, 125m per 50g.
MC: 50g approx of Watermelon (252) - Body, Head, Thighs, Feet, Arms, Ears.
CC1: 10g approx of Petal Peach (263) - Muzzle, Belly Patch, Tail.
CC2: Small amount of Snow White (106) - Egg, Flower, Eye Highlight, Whiskers.
CC3: Small amount of Yellow Gold (208) - Egg, Flower Centre.
CC4: Small amount of Kiwi (205) - Egg, Leaf.
CC5: Small amount of Jet Black (110) - Eyes, Nose Detail.
A cotton yarn works well for Ami as it gives good stitch definition and creates a firm structure so body parts hold their shape well. Catona is a relatively thick 4 ply (US: Sport) - you can substitute a DK Cotton (US: DK/Light Worsted) with a similar amount of metres per 50g.
You can scale this pattern up or down by altering the yarn and hook. Use a heavier weight yarn and larger hook for a bigger Bunny and a lighter weight yarn and smaller hook for a little one.
To read more about scaling an Amigurumi pattern up or down, check out my guide here: https://www.mycrochetchums.com/how-to-resize-amigurumi-pattern
Scheepjes Catona 4 ply 100% Cotton, 125m per 50g.
MC: 50g approx of Watermelon (252) - Body, Head, Thighs, Feet, Arms, Ears.
CC1: 10g approx of Petal Peach (263) - Muzzle, Belly Patch, Tail.
CC2: Small amount of Snow White (106) - Egg, Flower, Eye Highlight, Whiskers.
CC3: Small amount of Yellow Gold (208) - Egg, Flower Centre.
CC4: Small amount of Kiwi (205) - Egg, Leaf.
CC5: Small amount of Jet Black (110) - Eyes, Nose Detail.
A cotton yarn works well for Ami as it gives good stitch definition and creates a firm structure so body parts hold their shape well. Catona is a relatively thick 4 ply (US: Sport) - you can substitute a DK Cotton (US: DK/Light Worsted) with a similar amount of metres per 50g.
You can scale this pattern up or down by altering the yarn and hook. Use a heavier weight yarn and larger hook for a bigger Bunny and a lighter weight yarn and smaller hook for a little one.
To read more about scaling an Amigurumi pattern up or down, check out my guide here: https://www.mycrochetchums.com/how-to-resize-amigurumi-pattern
Hook
2 mm - for the yarn specified above.
2 mm - for the yarn specified above.
Other Supplies
Yarn needle, toy stuffing, stitch marker/waste yarn, pins and scissors.
Yarn needle, toy stuffing, stitch marker/waste yarn, pins and scissors.
Tension
27 st x 30 rows = 10cm measured over UK dc using 2mm hook with Scheepjes Catona 4 ply cotton.
Tension is not critical for this project but stitches should be tight enough to avoid stuffing showing through.
27 st x 30 rows = 10cm measured over UK dc using 2mm hook with Scheepjes Catona 4 ply cotton.
Tension is not critical for this project but stitches should be tight enough to avoid stuffing showing through.
Size
22cm/8.5in tall.
22cm/8.5in tall.
Easter Bunny - front
|
Easter Bunny - back
|
Pattern Notes
Most parts of the Bunny are made amigurumi style in a continuous spiral without joins.
The Belly Patch is made using turned rows. The turning chains aren't included in the stitch count.
The Egg is made using joined rounds, so that there are no jagged steps between the colours. Full instructions are given in the Egg part of the pattern but you can also find a Photo Tutorial showing the principle of the Joined Rounds technique HERE.
Colour changes take place on the last yrh of the last stitch of the previous round.
Use a stitch marker or waste yarn to keep track of the first stitch of each round. You can find a Photo Tutorial about using waste yarn as a stitch marker HERE.
If you don't want to make a Magic Ring you can start each piece by making a chain of 2 and then work the first round into the second chain from the hook.
If you'd like to start with a Magic Ring but don’t know how, you can find a Photo Tutorial HERE.
The Bunny is made of multiple separate pieces sewn together. Unless otherwise stated, finish each piece by pulling the yarn through the last loop and leave a long tail for sewing. Any loose tails at the end can be easily woven in.
Unless otherwise stated, I recommend making all the parts first before sewing anything together. Some parts need attaching in a particular order as they overlap. Full Making Up instructions are given at the end of the pattern.
UK Crochet Terms - Abbreviations
This pattern is written using UK Crochet Terms - they are NOT the same as US ones - please familiarise yourself with the UK terms to avoid your character’s shape distorting!
The “dc” abbreviation used in this pattern refers to UK double crochet. The equivalent stitch in US terms is single crochet - if you are used to US patterns you need to work single crochet everywhere this pattern says “dc”. If you work US dc (equivalent to UK Treble) the finished item will be elongated and the stuffing will show through.
This pattern also uses UK htr - half treble and UK tr - treble crochet. The equivalent stitches in US terms are US hdc - half double and US dc - double crochet.
JOIN THE CHUMS GANG MAILING LIST HERE TO ACCESS A FREE PRINTABLE PDF OF THIS PATTERN IN UK OR US TERMS.
Most parts of the Bunny are made amigurumi style in a continuous spiral without joins.
The Belly Patch is made using turned rows. The turning chains aren't included in the stitch count.
The Egg is made using joined rounds, so that there are no jagged steps between the colours. Full instructions are given in the Egg part of the pattern but you can also find a Photo Tutorial showing the principle of the Joined Rounds technique HERE.
Colour changes take place on the last yrh of the last stitch of the previous round.
Use a stitch marker or waste yarn to keep track of the first stitch of each round. You can find a Photo Tutorial about using waste yarn as a stitch marker HERE.
If you don't want to make a Magic Ring you can start each piece by making a chain of 2 and then work the first round into the second chain from the hook.
If you'd like to start with a Magic Ring but don’t know how, you can find a Photo Tutorial HERE.
The Bunny is made of multiple separate pieces sewn together. Unless otherwise stated, finish each piece by pulling the yarn through the last loop and leave a long tail for sewing. Any loose tails at the end can be easily woven in.
Unless otherwise stated, I recommend making all the parts first before sewing anything together. Some parts need attaching in a particular order as they overlap. Full Making Up instructions are given at the end of the pattern.
UK Crochet Terms - Abbreviations
This pattern is written using UK Crochet Terms - they are NOT the same as US ones - please familiarise yourself with the UK terms to avoid your character’s shape distorting!
The “dc” abbreviation used in this pattern refers to UK double crochet. The equivalent stitch in US terms is single crochet - if you are used to US patterns you need to work single crochet everywhere this pattern says “dc”. If you work US dc (equivalent to UK Treble) the finished item will be elongated and the stuffing will show through.
This pattern also uses UK htr - half treble and UK tr - treble crochet. The equivalent stitches in US terms are US hdc - half double and US dc - double crochet.
- If you are used to working in US Crochet Terms you can find a conversion chart HERE.
- If you are unfamiliar with any of the terms used in this pattern, find a chart of the UK Crochet terms used HERE.
JOIN THE CHUMS GANG MAILING LIST HERE TO ACCESS A FREE PRINTABLE PDF OF THIS PATTERN IN UK OR US TERMS.
Easter Bunny - right side
|
Easter Bunny - left side
|
Increasing and decreasing
You may use either standard increases and decreases in this pattern or, for a much neater finish, invisible ones. FLO = Front loop only.
Decrease - "dc2tog" in pattern.
Standard Decrease: Insert hook in next st, yrh, pull through stitch (2 loops on hook), insert hook in next st, yrh, pull up a loop (3 loops on hook), yrh, pull through all 3 loops on hook.
Invisible decrease: Insert hook in FLO of the two stitches to be decreased, yrh, pull through both front loops, yrh, pull through two loops on hook.
Increase - "2 dc in next st" in pattern.
Standard Increase: Work 2 dc in next st.
Invisible Increase: Work 1 dc in FLO of next st and 1 dc in both loops of same st.
You may use either standard increases and decreases in this pattern or, for a much neater finish, invisible ones. FLO = Front loop only.
Decrease - "dc2tog" in pattern.
Standard Decrease: Insert hook in next st, yrh, pull through stitch (2 loops on hook), insert hook in next st, yrh, pull up a loop (3 loops on hook), yrh, pull through all 3 loops on hook.
Invisible decrease: Insert hook in FLO of the two stitches to be decreased, yrh, pull through both front loops, yrh, pull through two loops on hook.
Increase - "2 dc in next st" in pattern.
Standard Increase: Work 2 dc in next st.
Invisible Increase: Work 1 dc in FLO of next st and 1 dc in both loops of same st.
Easter Bunny - front right
|
Easter Bunny - back left
|
Body
Made from bottom up. Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With MC, working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 6: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnd 7: Dc around.
Rnd 8: [5 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 42 sts
Rnds 9-15: Dc around.
Rnd 16: [5 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnds 17-19: Dc around.
Rnd 20: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 21: Dc around.
Rnd 22: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnds 23-25: Dc around.
Rnd 26: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 27: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail for sewing the Body to the Head once you've made all the parts.
Made from bottom up. Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With MC, working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 6: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnd 7: Dc around.
Rnd 8: [5 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 42 sts
Rnds 9-15: Dc around.
Rnd 16: [5 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnds 17-19: Dc around.
Rnd 20: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 21: Dc around.
Rnd 22: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnds 23-25: Dc around.
Rnd 26: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 27: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail for sewing the Body to the Head once you've made all the parts.
Head
Made from the bottom up. Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With MC, working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [2 dc in next st, 2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc in next st, 4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: [2 dc in next st, 6 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 30 sts
Rnd 6: [2 dc in next st, 8 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 36 sts
Rnd 7: Dc around.
Rnd 8: *[2 dc in next st] twice, 10 dc; rep from * twice more. 42 sts
Rnds 9-10: Dc around.
Rnd 11: [2 dc2tog, 10 dc] 3 times. 36 sts
Rnd 12: Dc around.
Rnd 13: [2 dc2tog, 8 dc] 3 times. 30 sts
Rnds 14-15: Dc around.
Rnd 16: [2 dc2tog, 6 dc] 3 times. 24 sts
Rnds 17-18: Dc around.
Rnd 19: [2 dc2tog, 4 dc] 3 times. 18 sts
Rnd 20: Dc around.
Rnd 21: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnd 22: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Fasten off. Weave the yarn tail through the FLO of the rem 6 sts and pull to close hole. Weave in end.
Made from the bottom up. Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With MC, working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [2 dc in next st, 2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc in next st, 4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: [2 dc in next st, 6 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 30 sts
Rnd 6: [2 dc in next st, 8 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 36 sts
Rnd 7: Dc around.
Rnd 8: *[2 dc in next st] twice, 10 dc; rep from * twice more. 42 sts
Rnds 9-10: Dc around.
Rnd 11: [2 dc2tog, 10 dc] 3 times. 36 sts
Rnd 12: Dc around.
Rnd 13: [2 dc2tog, 8 dc] 3 times. 30 sts
Rnds 14-15: Dc around.
Rnd 16: [2 dc2tog, 6 dc] 3 times. 24 sts
Rnds 17-18: Dc around.
Rnd 19: [2 dc2tog, 4 dc] 3 times. 18 sts
Rnd 20: Dc around.
Rnd 21: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnd 22: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Fasten off. Weave the yarn tail through the FLO of the rem 6 sts and pull to close hole. Weave in end.
Easter Bunny - ears detail
Ears - make 2
Worked from the top down. Don't stuff.
Rnd 1: With MC, working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnds 3-4: Dc around.
Rnd 5: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnds 6-8: Dc around.
Rnd 9: [5 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 21 sts
Rnds 10-12: Dc around.
Rnd 13: [5 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 18 sts
Rnds 14-16: Dc around.
Rnd 17: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 15 sts
Rnds 18-19: Dc around.
Rnd 20: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 12 sts
Rnd 21: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail for sewing the Ears to the Head once you've made all the parts.
Worked from the top down. Don't stuff.
Rnd 1: With MC, working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnds 3-4: Dc around.
Rnd 5: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnds 6-8: Dc around.
Rnd 9: [5 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 21 sts
Rnds 10-12: Dc around.
Rnd 13: [5 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 18 sts
Rnds 14-16: Dc around.
Rnd 17: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 15 sts
Rnds 18-19: Dc around.
Rnd 20: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 12 sts
Rnd 21: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail for sewing the Ears to the Head once you've made all the parts.
Easter Bunny - thighs detail
Thighs - make 2
Rnd 1: With MC, working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnds 6-8: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail for sewing the Thighs to the Body once you've made all the parts. Stuff the Thighs.
Rnd 1: With MC, working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnds 6-8: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail for sewing the Thighs to the Body once you've made all the parts. Stuff the Thighs.
Arms - make 2
Worked from the bottom up. Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With MC, working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnds 3-4: Dc around.
Rnd 5: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnds 6-8: Dc around.
Rnd 9: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 6 sts
Rnds 10-12: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail for sewing the Arms to the Body once you've made all the parts.
Worked from the bottom up. Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With MC, working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnds 3-4: Dc around.
Rnd 5: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnds 6-8: Dc around.
Rnd 9: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 6 sts
Rnds 10-12: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail for sewing the Arms to the Body once you've made all the parts.
Feet - make 2
Worked from the front back. Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With MC, working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnds 3-5: Dc around.
Rnd 6: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnds 7-9: Dc around.
Rnd 10: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 6 sts
Rnd 11: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail for sewing the Feet to the Body once you've made all the parts.
Worked from the front back. Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With MC, working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnds 3-5: Dc around.
Rnd 6: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnds 7-9: Dc around.
Rnd 10: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 6 sts
Rnd 11: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail for sewing the Feet to the Body once you've made all the parts.
Belly Patch
Worked from the bottom up. The turning chains at the start of each round are not included in the stitch count.
With CC1, chain 7.
Row 1: Starting in 2nd ch from hook, 6 dc. Turn. 6 sts
Row 2: 1 ch, 2 dc in next st, 4 dc, 2 dc in next st. Turn. 8 sts
Row 3: 1 ch, 2 dc in next st, 6 dc, 2 dc in next st. Turn. 10 sts
Row 4: 1 ch, 2 dc in next st, 8 dc, 2 dc in next st. Turn. 12 sts
Row 5: 1 ch, 2 dc in next st, 10 dc, 2 dc in next st. Turn. 14 sts
Row 6: 1 ch, 2 dc in next st, 12 dc, 2 dc in next st. Turn. 16 sts
Rows 7-9: 1 ch, dc across. Turn.
Row 10: 1 ch, 1 dc2tog, 12 dc, 1 dc2tog. Turn. 14 sts
Row 11: 1 ch, dc across. Turn.
Row 12: 1 ch, 1 dc2tog, 10dc, 1 dc2tog. Turn. 12 sts
Row 13: 1 ch, dc across. Turn.
Row 14: 1ch, 1 dc2tog, 8 dc, 1 dc2tog. Turn. 10 sts
Row 15: 1 ch, dc across. Turn.
Row 16: 1 ch, 1 dc2tog, 6 dc, 1 dc2tog. Turn. 8 sts
Row 17: 1 ch, dc across. Turn.
Row 18: 1 ch, 1 dc2tog, 4 dc, 1 dc2tog. Turn. 6 sts
Row 19: 1 ch, dc across. Turn.
Row 20: 1 ch, 1 dc2tog, 2 dc, 1 dc 2 tog. Turn. 4 sts
Row 21: 1 ch, dc across.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail for sewing the Belly Patch to the Body once you've made all the parts.
Worked from the bottom up. The turning chains at the start of each round are not included in the stitch count.
With CC1, chain 7.
Row 1: Starting in 2nd ch from hook, 6 dc. Turn. 6 sts
Row 2: 1 ch, 2 dc in next st, 4 dc, 2 dc in next st. Turn. 8 sts
Row 3: 1 ch, 2 dc in next st, 6 dc, 2 dc in next st. Turn. 10 sts
Row 4: 1 ch, 2 dc in next st, 8 dc, 2 dc in next st. Turn. 12 sts
Row 5: 1 ch, 2 dc in next st, 10 dc, 2 dc in next st. Turn. 14 sts
Row 6: 1 ch, 2 dc in next st, 12 dc, 2 dc in next st. Turn. 16 sts
Rows 7-9: 1 ch, dc across. Turn.
Row 10: 1 ch, 1 dc2tog, 12 dc, 1 dc2tog. Turn. 14 sts
Row 11: 1 ch, dc across. Turn.
Row 12: 1 ch, 1 dc2tog, 10dc, 1 dc2tog. Turn. 12 sts
Row 13: 1 ch, dc across. Turn.
Row 14: 1ch, 1 dc2tog, 8 dc, 1 dc2tog. Turn. 10 sts
Row 15: 1 ch, dc across. Turn.
Row 16: 1 ch, 1 dc2tog, 6 dc, 1 dc2tog. Turn. 8 sts
Row 17: 1 ch, dc across. Turn.
Row 18: 1 ch, 1 dc2tog, 4 dc, 1 dc2tog. Turn. 6 sts
Row 19: 1 ch, dc across. Turn.
Row 20: 1 ch, 1 dc2tog, 2 dc, 1 dc 2 tog. Turn. 4 sts
Row 21: 1 ch, dc across.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail for sewing the Belly Patch to the Body once you've made all the parts.
Muzzle
Rnd 1: With CC1, working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 15 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail for sewing the Muzzle to the Head once you've made all the parts.
Rnd 1: With CC1, working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 15 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail for sewing the Muzzle to the Head once you've made all the parts.
Easter Bunny - tail detail
Tail
Rnd 1: With CC1, working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 6: Dc around.
Rnd 7: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 8: [6 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 21 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail for sewing the Tail to the Body once you've made all the parts. Stuff the Tail.
Rnd 1: With CC1, working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 6: Dc around.
Rnd 7: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 8: [6 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 21 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail for sewing the Tail to the Body once you've made all the parts. Stuff the Tail.
Easter Bunny - egg detail
Egg
The Egg is made using joined rounds to avoid jagged steps between the colours.
Join each round with a sl st in BLO of beg dc, then work first st of next round into both loops of same dc as join. From the second joined round onwards, make sure you miss the sl st from the prev round, do not work into this rather than the beg dc by mistake. The sl st joins don't count in the st count. You can find a Photo Tutorial showing the principle of the Joined Rounds technique HERE.
Worked from the bottom up. Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With CC4, working into a magic ring, 6 dc, join in BLO. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. Join. 12 sts
Change to CC2.
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. Join. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. Join. 24 sts
Change to CC3.
Rnd 5: Dc around. Join.
Rnd 6: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. Join. 30 sts
Change to CC4.
Rnds 7-8: Dc around. Join.
Change to CC2.
Rnd 9: Dc around. Join.
Rnd 10: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. Join. 24 sts
Change to CC3.
Rnds 11-12: Dc around. Join.
Change to CC4.
Rnd 13: Dc around. Join.
Rnd 14: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. Join. 18 sts
Change to CC2.
Rnds 15-16: Dc around. Join.
Change to CC3.
Rnd 17: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. Join. 12 sts
Rnd 18: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Fasten off. Weave the yarn tail through the FLO of the rem 6 sts and pull to close hole. Weave in end.
The Egg is made using joined rounds to avoid jagged steps between the colours.
Join each round with a sl st in BLO of beg dc, then work first st of next round into both loops of same dc as join. From the second joined round onwards, make sure you miss the sl st from the prev round, do not work into this rather than the beg dc by mistake. The sl st joins don't count in the st count. You can find a Photo Tutorial showing the principle of the Joined Rounds technique HERE.
Worked from the bottom up. Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With CC4, working into a magic ring, 6 dc, join in BLO. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. Join. 12 sts
Change to CC2.
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. Join. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. Join. 24 sts
Change to CC3.
Rnd 5: Dc around. Join.
Rnd 6: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. Join. 30 sts
Change to CC4.
Rnds 7-8: Dc around. Join.
Change to CC2.
Rnd 9: Dc around. Join.
Rnd 10: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. Join. 24 sts
Change to CC3.
Rnds 11-12: Dc around. Join.
Change to CC4.
Rnd 13: Dc around. Join.
Rnd 14: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. Join. 18 sts
Change to CC2.
Rnds 15-16: Dc around. Join.
Change to CC3.
Rnd 17: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. Join. 12 sts
Rnd 18: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Fasten off. Weave the yarn tail through the FLO of the rem 6 sts and pull to close hole. Weave in end.
Eyes - make 2
Rnd 1: With CC5, working into a magic ring, 6 dc, sl st in beg dc to join. 6 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail for sewing the Eyes to the Head once you've made all the parts.
Rnd 1: With CC5, working into a magic ring, 6 dc, sl st in beg dc to join. 6 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail for sewing the Eyes to the Head once you've made all the parts.
Easter Bunny - flower detail
Flower
Made in two parts - the Petals and the Flower Centre.
Petals
Rnd 1: With CC2, working into a magic ring, 5 dc. 5 sts
Rnd 2: *[1 sl st, 3 ch, 1 tr, 3 ch, 1 sl st] in next st; rep from * 4 more times. 5 petals
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail for sewing the Petals to the Head once you've made all the parts.
Flower Centre
Rnd 1: With CC3, working into a magic ring, 6 dc, sl st in beg dc to join. 6 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail for sewing the Flower Centre to the Petals once you've made all the parts.
Made in two parts - the Petals and the Flower Centre.
Petals
Rnd 1: With CC2, working into a magic ring, 5 dc. 5 sts
Rnd 2: *[1 sl st, 3 ch, 1 tr, 3 ch, 1 sl st] in next st; rep from * 4 more times. 5 petals
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail for sewing the Petals to the Head once you've made all the parts.
Flower Centre
Rnd 1: With CC3, working into a magic ring, 6 dc, sl st in beg dc to join. 6 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail for sewing the Flower Centre to the Petals once you've made all the parts.
Leaf
Leave a starting tail long enough to sew with. Chain in Rnd 1 is included in the stitch count.
With CC4, chain 8.
Rnd 1: Starting in 2nd ch from hook, *1 sl st, 1 dc, 1 htr, 2tr in next st, 1 htr, 1 dc, 1 sl st**, 1 ch, rotating as you go, in the other side of the chain work from * to ** once more. 17 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail for sewing the Leaf to the Head once you've finished making all the parts.Thread the starting tail onto a yarn needle and sew down the centre of the Leaf using running stitch so that both yarn tails are at the same end of the Leaf. The starting tail can be concealed by sewing into the Head with it when you are following the Making Up instructions below.
Leave a starting tail long enough to sew with. Chain in Rnd 1 is included in the stitch count.
With CC4, chain 8.
Rnd 1: Starting in 2nd ch from hook, *1 sl st, 1 dc, 1 htr, 2tr in next st, 1 htr, 1 dc, 1 sl st**, 1 ch, rotating as you go, in the other side of the chain work from * to ** once more. 17 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail for sewing the Leaf to the Head once you've finished making all the parts.Thread the starting tail onto a yarn needle and sew down the centre of the Leaf using running stitch so that both yarn tails are at the same end of the Leaf. The starting tail can be concealed by sewing into the Head with it when you are following the Making Up instructions below.
Easter Bunny - base detail
Making Up
Using the photographs as a guide, pin the pieces together before sewing, checking from all angles to make sure you’re happy with the positioning, then use the long yarn tails or a length of yarn with a yarn needle to stitch the pieces together.
There's a Photo Tutorial about sewing Amigurumi parts together seamlessly HERE.
Before you start positioning the pieces, you may find it helpful to insert a line of pins running down the centre line of the back of the Body, this will help you to position the Legs and Head evenly in relation to the central line. Remove any pins that are in the way of the pieces you are attaching as you go.
There's a Photo Tutorial about using Pin Lines to help position amigurumi parts on the website - you can find it HERE.
Using the photographs as a guide, pin the pieces together before sewing, checking from all angles to make sure you’re happy with the positioning, then use the long yarn tails or a length of yarn with a yarn needle to stitch the pieces together.
There's a Photo Tutorial about sewing Amigurumi parts together seamlessly HERE.
Before you start positioning the pieces, you may find it helpful to insert a line of pins running down the centre line of the back of the Body, this will help you to position the Legs and Head evenly in relation to the central line. Remove any pins that are in the way of the pieces you are attaching as you go.
There's a Photo Tutorial about using Pin Lines to help position amigurumi parts on the website - you can find it HERE.
- Looking at the base of the Head, it's a triangle shape with rounded corners. Pick one of the corners to be the centre front of the Head. It may help you to insert a line of pins down the centre front of the Head to ensure you position the Muzzle and Ears evenly.
- The fastening off point of the Muzzle is its bottom point. Sew the Muzzle to the Head, with its top edge sitting approx 11 rnds down from the top of the Head.
- Sew the Eyes in place, with their bottom edge sitting 1 rnd above the top edge of the Muzzle and spaced approx 6 sts apart across the Face.
- Pinch the base of one of the Ears together to make a fold and secure it in this position with a few stitches. Do the same with the second Ear.
- The Ears are sewn up the sides of the Head. Pin into place so that the outside edge of the bottom of each Ear is sitting approx 6 rnds down from the top of the Head and the inside edge of each will then sit approx 3 rnds down from the top of the Head. Once you're happy with the positions, sew in place, stitching along the bottom of each Ear. To keep the Ears upright, looking at them from behind, stitch up the inside edge of each Ear where it touches the side of the Head.
- Sew the Leaf in position at the base of the Bunny's left Ear, just attaching it at its base. Conceal the starting tail of the Leaf by sewing it into the Head.
- Sew the Flower Petals in place over the point where the Leaf joins the Head. Sew the Flower Centre on top of the middle of the Petals.
- Sew the Body to the base of the Head. Its front edge should sit approx 4 rnds down from the bottom point of the Muzzle.
- Sew the Belly Patch to the front of the Body with its bottom edge sitting approx 6 rnds up from the starting point of the Body and its top edge sitting just below the join between the top of the Body and the Head.
- Sew the Tail to the back of the Body. Its bottom edge should sit approx 6 rnds up from the starting point of the Body.
- The Thighs sit partially over the Belly Patch. Sew them to the sides of the Body with their bottom edge sitting approx 5 rnds out from the starting point of the Body. Their top edge should sit approx 12 rnds down from the top of the Body and their back edges should be approx 4 stitches away from the sides of the Tail.
- The Feet and Arms are very similar - the Arms are longer than the Feet.
- Sew the Feet to the base of the Body at the bottom of the Belly Patch. They should be set forward so that the Bunny can sit on her bottom and they should be spaced approx 4 sts apart. Where the tops of the Feet touch the Thighs, secure in position with a few stitches.
- Sew the Arms to the sides of the Body, sitting approx 4 sts back from the side of the Belly Patch.
- The bottom of the Arm join should sit approx 3 rnds up from the top of the Thigh and the top edge of the join approx 6 rnds down from the top of the Body.
- Sew the Paws to the Egg. I angled my Egg by joining the Bunny's right Paw to Rnds 5-6 of the Egg and her left Paw to Rnds 15-16.
Easter Bunny - face detail
Embroidered Details
Using the photos as a guide, with a yarn needle, embroider the following:
All done!
Using the photos as a guide, with a yarn needle, embroider the following:
- Using a length of CC2, embroider the single stitch highlight onto each Eye.
- Split a length of CC2 down its middle to halve its thickness and embroider 3 whiskers on each side of the Muzzle.
- Using a length of CC5, embroider the Nose and Mouth.
All done!
Terms of Use
I am happy for you to donate, gift or sell any of the my crochet chums you make if you are an individual crafter - please credit mycrochetchums.com as the pattern designer. The patterns can not be used for any type of mass production or manufacturing.
If you do wish to sell your my crochet chums, it is your responsibility to ensure that the finished item complies with the relevant toy safety legislation in your country.
Please be sure to use toy grade stuffing and do not add buttons, bells, ribbons etc that could be a danger to small children.
You may print your PDF for personal use only (not for redistribution).
The patterns, files and all images are copyright protected and are not for commercial use. No part of the patterns may be sold, reproduced, transmitted, broadcast, translated, used for derivative works or published in any form.
About mycrochetchums
I started mycrochetchums at the end of 2020 to give me something to focus on during lockdown and to make creative use of a box of Amigurumi Yarn that was an impulse purchase I was feeling guilty about! I enjoyed it so much that when the world got back to "normal" I carried on.
I’m loving creating these cute characters and sharpening my tech skills in the process as I wrangle with managing a website and social media.
Check out the mycrochetchums Facebook page - drop me a message there if you have any feedback about the pattern or would like to share a picture of the end result.
You can also find me on Instagram @mycrochetchums.
If you have any questions about any of my patterns (or any other ami you may be working on) please email me at: [email protected] - I’ll do my best to help!
Happy Crocheting!
Pia 🧶😍x
©2024 PIA SIMPSON/ MYCROCHETCHUMS
I am happy for you to donate, gift or sell any of the my crochet chums you make if you are an individual crafter - please credit mycrochetchums.com as the pattern designer. The patterns can not be used for any type of mass production or manufacturing.
If you do wish to sell your my crochet chums, it is your responsibility to ensure that the finished item complies with the relevant toy safety legislation in your country.
Please be sure to use toy grade stuffing and do not add buttons, bells, ribbons etc that could be a danger to small children.
You may print your PDF for personal use only (not for redistribution).
The patterns, files and all images are copyright protected and are not for commercial use. No part of the patterns may be sold, reproduced, transmitted, broadcast, translated, used for derivative works or published in any form.
About mycrochetchums
I started mycrochetchums at the end of 2020 to give me something to focus on during lockdown and to make creative use of a box of Amigurumi Yarn that was an impulse purchase I was feeling guilty about! I enjoyed it so much that when the world got back to "normal" I carried on.
I’m loving creating these cute characters and sharpening my tech skills in the process as I wrangle with managing a website and social media.
Check out the mycrochetchums Facebook page - drop me a message there if you have any feedback about the pattern or would like to share a picture of the end result.
You can also find me on Instagram @mycrochetchums.
If you have any questions about any of my patterns (or any other ami you may be working on) please email me at: [email protected] - I’ll do my best to help!
Happy Crocheting!
Pia 🧶😍x
©2024 PIA SIMPSON/ MYCROCHETCHUMS
More FREE Patterns...
