Free Amigurumi Crochet Red Squirrel Pattern
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Yarn
Scheepjes Catona. 100% Cotton. 125m per 50g
MC: 55g approx of Ginger Gold (383) for Body, Head, Legs, Arms, Feet and Tail.
CC1: 10g approx of Bridal White (105) for Eyes, Belly Patch and Embroidered Detail.
CC2: 5g approx of Root Beer (157) for Acorn Cup and Stalk.
CC3: 5g approx of Antique Mauve (257) for Acorn.
CC4: 5g approx of Black Coffee (162) for Pupils, Nose and Embroidered Detail.
A cotton yarn works well for Ami as it gives good stitch definition and creates a firm structure so body parts hold their shape well. Scheepjes Catona is a relatively thick 4 ply (US: Sport) - you can substitute a DK Cotton (US: DK/Light Worsted) with a similar amount of metres per 50g.
You can scale this pattern up or down by altering the yarn and hook. Use a heavier weight yarn and larger hook for a bigger Red Squirrel and a lighter weight yarn and smaller hook for a little one.
To read more about scaling an Amigurumi pattern up or down, check out my guide HERE.
Scheepjes Catona. 100% Cotton. 125m per 50g
MC: 55g approx of Ginger Gold (383) for Body, Head, Legs, Arms, Feet and Tail.
CC1: 10g approx of Bridal White (105) for Eyes, Belly Patch and Embroidered Detail.
CC2: 5g approx of Root Beer (157) for Acorn Cup and Stalk.
CC3: 5g approx of Antique Mauve (257) for Acorn.
CC4: 5g approx of Black Coffee (162) for Pupils, Nose and Embroidered Detail.
A cotton yarn works well for Ami as it gives good stitch definition and creates a firm structure so body parts hold their shape well. Scheepjes Catona is a relatively thick 4 ply (US: Sport) - you can substitute a DK Cotton (US: DK/Light Worsted) with a similar amount of metres per 50g.
You can scale this pattern up or down by altering the yarn and hook. Use a heavier weight yarn and larger hook for a bigger Red Squirrel and a lighter weight yarn and smaller hook for a little one.
To read more about scaling an Amigurumi pattern up or down, check out my guide HERE.
Hook
2 mm - for the yarn specified above.
2 mm - for the yarn specified above.
Other Supplies
Yarn needle, toy stuffing, stitch marker/waste yarn, pins and scissors. If you want to Squirrel to sit up without support, as shown in the photos, you will need to weight his bottom with plastic toy filling pellets (available online) - if its not weighted, the Squirrel tends to tip backwards because of the weight of his tail!
Yarn needle, toy stuffing, stitch marker/waste yarn, pins and scissors. If you want to Squirrel to sit up without support, as shown in the photos, you will need to weight his bottom with plastic toy filling pellets (available online) - if its not weighted, the Squirrel tends to tip backwards because of the weight of his tail!
Tension
27 st x 30 rows = 10 cm measured over UK dc using 2mm hook with Scheepjes Catona 4 ply cotton.
Tension is not critical for this project but stitches should be tight enough to avoid stuffing showing through.
27 st x 30 rows = 10 cm measured over UK dc using 2mm hook with Scheepjes Catona 4 ply cotton.
Tension is not critical for this project but stitches should be tight enough to avoid stuffing showing through.
Size
17 cm (6.75in) approx from top to toe.
17 cm (6.75in) approx from top to toe.
Crochet Red Squirrel - Right Side
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Crochet Red Squirrel - Left Side
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Pattern Notes
Unless otherwise specified this pattern is worked in the amigurumi style, in a continuous spiral without slip stitching or turning chains. The Squirrel's Belly Patch is made using turned rows - the turning chain at the start of each row is not included in the stitch count.
Use a stitch marker or waste yarn to keep track of the first stitch of each round. You can find a Photo Tutorial about using waste yarn as a stitch marker HERE.
If you don't want to make a Magic Ring you can start each piece by making a chain of 2 and then work the first round into the second chain from the hook.
If you'd like to start with a Magic Ring but don’t know how, you can find a Photo Tutorial HERE.
The Squirrel is made of multiple separate pieces sewn together. Unless otherwise stated, finish each piece by pulling the yarn through the last loop and leave a long tail for sewing. Any loose tails at the end can be easily woven in.
Unless otherwise specified this pattern is worked in the amigurumi style, in a continuous spiral without slip stitching or turning chains. The Squirrel's Belly Patch is made using turned rows - the turning chain at the start of each row is not included in the stitch count.
Use a stitch marker or waste yarn to keep track of the first stitch of each round. You can find a Photo Tutorial about using waste yarn as a stitch marker HERE.
If you don't want to make a Magic Ring you can start each piece by making a chain of 2 and then work the first round into the second chain from the hook.
If you'd like to start with a Magic Ring but don’t know how, you can find a Photo Tutorial HERE.
The Squirrel is made of multiple separate pieces sewn together. Unless otherwise stated, finish each piece by pulling the yarn through the last loop and leave a long tail for sewing. Any loose tails at the end can be easily woven in.
UK Crochet Terms - Abbreviations
The pattern below is written using UK Crochet Terms - they are NOT the same as US ones - please familiarise yourself with the UK terms to avoid your character’s shape distorting!
The “dc” abbreviation used in this pattern refers to UK double crochet. The equivalent stitch in US terms is single crochet - if you are used to US patterns you need to work single crochet everywhere this pattern says “dc”. If you work US dc (equivalent to UK Treble) the finished item will be elongated and the stuffing will show through.
The pattern below is written using UK Crochet Terms - they are NOT the same as US ones - please familiarise yourself with the UK terms to avoid your character’s shape distorting!
The “dc” abbreviation used in this pattern refers to UK double crochet. The equivalent stitch in US terms is single crochet - if you are used to US patterns you need to work single crochet everywhere this pattern says “dc”. If you work US dc (equivalent to UK Treble) the finished item will be elongated and the stuffing will show through.
Increasing and decreasing
You may use either standard increases and decreases in this pattern or, for a much neater finish, invisible ones. FLO = Front loop only. Use standard increases and decreases for the Belly Patch rows.
Decrease - "dc2tog" in pattern.
Invisible decrease: Insert hook in FLO of the two stitches to be decreased, yrh, pull through both front loops, yrh, draw through two loops on hook.
Increase - "2 dc in next st" in pattern.
Invisible Increase: Work 1 dc in FLO of next st and 1 dc in both loops of same st.
You may use either standard increases and decreases in this pattern or, for a much neater finish, invisible ones. FLO = Front loop only. Use standard increases and decreases for the Belly Patch rows.
Decrease - "dc2tog" in pattern.
Invisible decrease: Insert hook in FLO of the two stitches to be decreased, yrh, pull through both front loops, yrh, draw through two loops on hook.
Increase - "2 dc in next st" in pattern.
Invisible Increase: Work 1 dc in FLO of next st and 1 dc in both loops of same st.
Crochet Red squirrel - front right
Body
Worked from the bottom up. Stuff as you go, starting with the plastic toy filling pellets if you want to weight the Squirrel's bottom to make him free standing.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 6: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnd 7: Dc around.
Rnd 8: [5 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 42 sts
Rnds 9-15: Dc around.
Rnd 16: [5 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnds 17-19: Dc around.
Rnd 20: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 21: Dc around.
Rnd 22: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnds 23-28: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Body to the Head once you've made all the parts.
Worked from the bottom up. Stuff as you go, starting with the plastic toy filling pellets if you want to weight the Squirrel's bottom to make him free standing.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 6: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnd 7: Dc around.
Rnd 8: [5 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 42 sts
Rnds 9-15: Dc around.
Rnd 16: [5 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnds 17-19: Dc around.
Rnd 20: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 21: Dc around.
Rnd 22: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnds 23-28: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Body to the Head once you've made all the parts.
Head
Made from front of Head to back. Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: Dc around.
Rnd 4: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 5: Dc around.
Rnd 6: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 7: Dc around.
Rnd 8: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 9: Dc around.
Rnd 10: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnd 11: Dc around.
Rnd 12: [5 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 42 sts
Rnd 13: Dc around.
Rnd 14: [6 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 48 sts
Rnd 15: Dc around.
Rnd 16: [6 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 42 sts
Rnd 17: Dc around.
Rnd 18: [5 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnds 19-20: Dc around.
Rnd 21: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 22: Dc around.
Rnd 23: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 24: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 25: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnd 26: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Fasten off. Weave yarn tail through FLO of last 6 sts and pull to close hole. Weave in end.
Made from front of Head to back. Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: Dc around.
Rnd 4: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 5: Dc around.
Rnd 6: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 7: Dc around.
Rnd 8: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 9: Dc around.
Rnd 10: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnd 11: Dc around.
Rnd 12: [5 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 42 sts
Rnd 13: Dc around.
Rnd 14: [6 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 48 sts
Rnd 15: Dc around.
Rnd 16: [6 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 42 sts
Rnd 17: Dc around.
Rnd 18: [5 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnds 19-20: Dc around.
Rnd 21: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 22: Dc around.
Rnd 23: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 24: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 25: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnd 26: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Fasten off. Weave yarn tail through FLO of last 6 sts and pull to close hole. Weave in end.
Crochet Red squirrel - back view
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Crochet Red Squirrel - back right
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Tail
Worked from the top down. The top curve of the tail is worked first, followed by the main part of it and then the yarn is reattached to work the tip of the tail. Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With MC, working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 6: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnd 7: [5 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 42 sts
Rnd 8: Dc around.
Rnd 9: [6 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 48 sts
Rnds 10-11: Dc around.
You're now going to work the main part of the Tail by only working into some of the stitches of Rnd 11. Once the main part of the Tail is complete, you'll be re-attaching the yarn to work the Tip of the Tail into the remaining unused stitches of Rnd 11. Don't panic - full instructions are given below! Stuff as you go.
Rnd 12a: 30 dc, leave rest of sts from Rnd 11 unworked. 30 sts
The next unused stitch of Rnd 11 after you've made the 30th dc in Rnd 12a, is where you'll reattach the yarn to work the Tip of the Tail later. Ignore those stitches for now and work Rnd 13a into the 30 sts of Rnd 12a.
Rnd 13a-18a: Dc around.
Rnd 19a: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnds 20a-22a: Dc around.
Rnd 23a: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnds 24a-27a: Dc around.
From Rnd 28a on to Rnd 33a, only stuff lightly.
Rnd 28a: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnds 29a-33a: Dc around.
Fasten off. Flatten the end and sew across to close. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Tail to the Body once you've made all the parts.
To work the Tip of the Tail, attach the yarn in the next unused stitch of Rnd 11 and work the following. Stuff as you go.
Rnd 12b: 1 dc in each of the 18 unused stitches of Rnd 11. 18 sts
Rnds 13b-14b: Dc around.
Rnd 15b: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnd 16b: Dc around.
Rnd 17b: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Fasten off. Weave the yarn tail through the FLO of last 6 sts and pull to close hole. Weave in end.
Worked from the top down. The top curve of the tail is worked first, followed by the main part of it and then the yarn is reattached to work the tip of the tail. Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With MC, working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 6: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnd 7: [5 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 42 sts
Rnd 8: Dc around.
Rnd 9: [6 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 48 sts
Rnds 10-11: Dc around.
You're now going to work the main part of the Tail by only working into some of the stitches of Rnd 11. Once the main part of the Tail is complete, you'll be re-attaching the yarn to work the Tip of the Tail into the remaining unused stitches of Rnd 11. Don't panic - full instructions are given below! Stuff as you go.
Rnd 12a: 30 dc, leave rest of sts from Rnd 11 unworked. 30 sts
The next unused stitch of Rnd 11 after you've made the 30th dc in Rnd 12a, is where you'll reattach the yarn to work the Tip of the Tail later. Ignore those stitches for now and work Rnd 13a into the 30 sts of Rnd 12a.
Rnd 13a-18a: Dc around.
Rnd 19a: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnds 20a-22a: Dc around.
Rnd 23a: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnds 24a-27a: Dc around.
From Rnd 28a on to Rnd 33a, only stuff lightly.
Rnd 28a: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnds 29a-33a: Dc around.
Fasten off. Flatten the end and sew across to close. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Tail to the Body once you've made all the parts.
To work the Tip of the Tail, attach the yarn in the next unused stitch of Rnd 11 and work the following. Stuff as you go.
Rnd 12b: 1 dc in each of the 18 unused stitches of Rnd 11. 18 sts
Rnds 13b-14b: Dc around.
Rnd 15b: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnd 16b: Dc around.
Rnd 17b: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Fasten off. Weave the yarn tail through the FLO of last 6 sts and pull to close hole. Weave in end.
Thighs - make 2
Stuff at the end.
Rnd 1: With MC, working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 6: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnd 7: Dc around.
Rnd 8: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 9: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Thigh to the Body once you've made all the parts.
Stuff at the end.
Rnd 1: With MC, working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 6: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnd 7: Dc around.
Rnd 8: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 9: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Thigh to the Body once you've made all the parts.
Crochet Red Squirrel - Arm Detail
Arms - make 2
Made from the bottom up. Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnd 3: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 12 sts
Rnd 4: Dc around.
Rnd 5: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Rnd 6: Dc around.
Rnd 7: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnds 8-11: Dc around.
Rnd 12: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 12 sts
Rnd 13: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 14: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnd 15: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Fasten off. Weave the yarn tail through the FLO of the last 6 sts and pull to close hole. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Arms to the Body once you've made all the parts.
Made from the bottom up. Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnd 3: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 12 sts
Rnd 4: Dc around.
Rnd 5: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Rnd 6: Dc around.
Rnd 7: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnds 8-11: Dc around.
Rnd 12: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 12 sts
Rnd 13: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 14: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnd 15: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Fasten off. Weave the yarn tail through the FLO of the last 6 sts and pull to close hole. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Arms to the Body once you've made all the parts.
Feet - make 2
Made from front to back. Don't stuff.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnds 3-4: Dc around.
Rnd 5: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnd 6: Dc around.
Rnd 7: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 6 sts
Fasten off. Flatten the last round and sew across the top of its stitches to close the foot. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Foot to the Body once you've made all the parts.
Made from front to back. Don't stuff.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnds 3-4: Dc around.
Rnd 5: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnd 6: Dc around.
Rnd 7: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 6 sts
Fasten off. Flatten the last round and sew across the top of its stitches to close the foot. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Foot to the Body once you've made all the parts.
Ears- make 2
Do not stuff.
Rnd 1: With MC, working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: Dc around.
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 12 sts
Rnd 5: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnds 6-8: Dc around.
Rnd 9: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnds 10-12: Dc around.
Rnd 13: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 9 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Ears to the Head once you've made all the parts.
Do not stuff.
Rnd 1: With MC, working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: Dc around.
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 12 sts
Rnd 5: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnds 6-8: Dc around.
Rnd 9: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnds 10-12: Dc around.
Rnd 13: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 9 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Ears to the Head once you've made all the parts.
Belly Patch
Made using turned rows. The turning chain at the start of each row isn't included in the stitch count.
With CC1, chain 7
Row 1: Starting in the second chain from the hook, 6 dc. Turn. 6 sts
Row 2: 1 ch, 2 dc in next st, 4 dc, 2 dc in next st. Turn. 8 sts
Row 3: 1 ch, 2 dc in next st, 6 dc, 2 dc in next st. Turn. 10 sts
Row 4: 1 ch, 2 dc in next st, 8 dc, 2 dc in next st. Turn. 12 sts
Row 5: 1 ch, 2 dc in next st, 10 dc, 2 dc in next st. Turn. 14 sts
Row 6: 1 ch, 2 dc in next st, 12 dc, 2 dc in next st. Turn. 16 sts
Rows 7-10: 1 ch, dc across. Turn.
Row 11: 1 ch, 1 dc2tog, 12 dc, 1 dc2tog. Turn. 14 sts
Rows 12-13: 1 ch, dc across. Turn.
Row 14: 1 ch, 1 dc2tog, 10 dc, 1 dc2tog. Turn. 12 sts
Row 15: 1 ch, dc across. Turn.
Row 16: 1 ch, 1 dc2tog, 8 dc, 1 dc2tog. Turn. 10 sts
Row 17: 1 ch, dc across. Turn.
Row 18: 1 ch, 1 dc2tog, 6 dc, 1 dc2tog. Turn. 8 sts
Row 19: 1 ch, 1 dc2tog, 4 dc, 1 dc2tog. Turn. 6 sts
Row 20: 1 ch, 1 dc2tog, 2 dc, 1 dc2tog. Turn. 4 sts
Row 21: 1 ch, dc across. Don't turn.
To work edge:
Crochet round the edge of the piece, working 1 dc in the end of each row down the first side, 1 dc in the unused back loops of the foundation chain and 1 dc in the end of each row up the second side, to the start of Row 21. Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Belly Patch to the Body once you've made all the parts.
Made using turned rows. The turning chain at the start of each row isn't included in the stitch count.
With CC1, chain 7
Row 1: Starting in the second chain from the hook, 6 dc. Turn. 6 sts
Row 2: 1 ch, 2 dc in next st, 4 dc, 2 dc in next st. Turn. 8 sts
Row 3: 1 ch, 2 dc in next st, 6 dc, 2 dc in next st. Turn. 10 sts
Row 4: 1 ch, 2 dc in next st, 8 dc, 2 dc in next st. Turn. 12 sts
Row 5: 1 ch, 2 dc in next st, 10 dc, 2 dc in next st. Turn. 14 sts
Row 6: 1 ch, 2 dc in next st, 12 dc, 2 dc in next st. Turn. 16 sts
Rows 7-10: 1 ch, dc across. Turn.
Row 11: 1 ch, 1 dc2tog, 12 dc, 1 dc2tog. Turn. 14 sts
Rows 12-13: 1 ch, dc across. Turn.
Row 14: 1 ch, 1 dc2tog, 10 dc, 1 dc2tog. Turn. 12 sts
Row 15: 1 ch, dc across. Turn.
Row 16: 1 ch, 1 dc2tog, 8 dc, 1 dc2tog. Turn. 10 sts
Row 17: 1 ch, dc across. Turn.
Row 18: 1 ch, 1 dc2tog, 6 dc, 1 dc2tog. Turn. 8 sts
Row 19: 1 ch, 1 dc2tog, 4 dc, 1 dc2tog. Turn. 6 sts
Row 20: 1 ch, 1 dc2tog, 2 dc, 1 dc2tog. Turn. 4 sts
Row 21: 1 ch, dc across. Don't turn.
To work edge:
Crochet round the edge of the piece, working 1 dc in the end of each row down the first side, 1 dc in the unused back loops of the foundation chain and 1 dc in the end of each row up the second side, to the start of Row 21. Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Belly Patch to the Body once you've made all the parts.
Nose
Worked from front towards back. Don't stuff.
Rnd 1: With CC4, working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnd 3: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 12 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Nose to the Head once you've made all the parts.
Worked from front towards back. Don't stuff.
Rnd 1: With CC4, working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnd 3: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 12 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Nose to the Head once you've made all the parts.
Eyes - make 2
Made in two parts, the White of the Eye and the Pupil. Make 2 of each part.
White of the Eye:
Rnd 1: With CC1, working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around, sl st in beg dc to join. 12 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the White of the Eye to the Head once you've made all the parts.
Pupils:
Rnd 1: With CC4, working into a magic ring, 4 dc, sl st in beg dc to join. 4 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Pupil to the White of the Eye and Head once you've made all the parts.
Made in two parts, the White of the Eye and the Pupil. Make 2 of each part.
White of the Eye:
Rnd 1: With CC1, working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around, sl st in beg dc to join. 12 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the White of the Eye to the Head once you've made all the parts.
Pupils:
Rnd 1: With CC4, working into a magic ring, 4 dc, sl st in beg dc to join. 4 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Pupil to the White of the Eye and Head once you've made all the parts.
Crochet Red squirrel - Acorn detail
Acorn
Made from top down. Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With CC2, working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnd 3: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 12 sts
Rnd 4: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 5: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnds 6-14: Dc around.
Rnd 15: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 16: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnd 17: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Fasten off. Weave in end.
Acorn Cup & Stalk
Made in 2 parts, the Cup and the Stalk. Do not stuff.
Cup:
Rnd 1: With CC2, working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: Dc around.
Rnd 6: 2 dc in next st, 23dc. 25 sts
Rnd 7: Dc around.
Rnd 8: Dc around, sl st in beg dc to join.
Fasten off. Fit the bottom of the Acorn into the Cup. With a long yarn tail, sewing in the BLO of Rnd 8, stitch round the top of the Acorn Cup to hold the Acorn in place.
Stalk:
With CC2, chain 9.
Row 1: Starting in second chain from the hook, 8 dc. Turn. 8 sts
Row 2: 1 ch, dc in BLO across.
Fasten off. Fold the Stalk in half along its length and using a long yarn tail, sew the two long edges together. Sew the Stalk to the bottom of the Acorn Cup. Weave in end.
Made from top down. Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With CC2, working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnd 3: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 12 sts
Rnd 4: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 5: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnds 6-14: Dc around.
Rnd 15: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 16: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnd 17: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Fasten off. Weave in end.
Acorn Cup & Stalk
Made in 2 parts, the Cup and the Stalk. Do not stuff.
Cup:
Rnd 1: With CC2, working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: Dc around.
Rnd 6: 2 dc in next st, 23dc. 25 sts
Rnd 7: Dc around.
Rnd 8: Dc around, sl st in beg dc to join.
Fasten off. Fit the bottom of the Acorn into the Cup. With a long yarn tail, sewing in the BLO of Rnd 8, stitch round the top of the Acorn Cup to hold the Acorn in place.
Stalk:
With CC2, chain 9.
Row 1: Starting in second chain from the hook, 8 dc. Turn. 8 sts
Row 2: 1 ch, dc in BLO across.
Fasten off. Fold the Stalk in half along its length and using a long yarn tail, sew the two long edges together. Sew the Stalk to the bottom of the Acorn Cup. Weave in end.
Crochet Red Squirrel - base detail
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Crochet Red Squirrel - Ear Detail
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Making Up
- Using the photographs as a guide, pin the pieces together before sewing, checking from all angles to make sure you’re happy with the positioning, then use the long yarn tails or a length of yarn with a yarn needle to stitch the pieces together.
- There's a Photo Tutorial about sewing Amigurumi parts together seamlessly HERE.
- Before you start positioning the pieces, you may find it helpful to insert a line of pins running down the front centre line of the Body, taking them under the base and up the back - this will help you to position everything else evenly in relation to the central line. Do the same on the Head. Remove any pins that are in the way of the pieces you are attaching as you go.
- If the previous paragraph has confused you, there's a Photo Tutorial about using Pin Lines to help position amigurumi parts on the website - you can find it HERE.
- Sew the Body to the bottom of the Head. The back of the neck should be sitting approx in line with the 5th to last round of the Head (count back from the last round on the back of the Head) and the Head should be sitting with its front point (where the nose will go later) pointing up slightly.
- Sew the Belly Patch onto the front of the Body, its bottom edge should sit roughly in line with Rnd 4 of the Body and its top edge will be approx 4 rnds down from the top of the Body.
- Sew the stuffed Thighs in place either side of the Body. Their front edges should overlap the Belly Patch slightly with about 12 stitches of the Belly Patch between the two. Their bottom edges should be in line with the Base of the Body.
- Sew the Feet in place on the base of the Body, set in from the Thighs.
- Sew the Arms in place either side of the top of the Belly Patch on the Body. Their top edge should sit approx 6 rounds down from the top of the Body.
- Sew the Tail to the back of the Body. The last round of the Tail should sit roughly in line with Rnd 7 of the Body. To keep the Tail in an upright position, attach it for several rounds up the Squirrel's back.
- Before you attach the Ears, pinch the bottom of each to create a fold in the Ear and secure in this shape with a few stitches. Sew the Ears to the sides of the Head. Looking from the side, they should be roughly in line vertically with where the Arms join the Body. Make sure they're far enough back to leave room for the Eyes and Nose on the Squirrel's face.
- Sew the Nose over the front point of the Head.
- Sew the Whites of the Eyes to the sides of the Head - their front edges should sit approx 4 rnds back from the edge of the Nose. Sew the Pupils on top of the Whites of the Eyes sitting forward slightly.
- Sew the Acorn in place in the Squirrel's paws.
Crochet Red Squirrel - face detail
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Crochet Red Squirrel - paws detail
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Embroidered Details
Using the photos as a guide, with a yarn needle, embroider the following:
With CC1, embroider a single stitch highlight on each Eye and the decorative flecks up the back of the Tail and on the tops of the Squirrel's Ears.
With CC4 embroider the Squirrel's mouth and 3 claws on each of his paws.
There's a Photo Tutorial showing the method I use to embroider claws and fasten off the yarn securely HERE.
All done!
Using the photos as a guide, with a yarn needle, embroider the following:
With CC1, embroider a single stitch highlight on each Eye and the decorative flecks up the back of the Tail and on the tops of the Squirrel's Ears.
With CC4 embroider the Squirrel's mouth and 3 claws on each of his paws.
There's a Photo Tutorial showing the method I use to embroider claws and fasten off the yarn securely HERE.
All done!
Terms of Use
- I am happy for you to donate, gift or sell any of the my crochet chums you make if you are an individual crafter - please credit mycrochetchums.com as the designer.
- If you do wish to sell your my crochet chums, it is your responsibility to ensure that the finished item complies with the relevant toy legislation in your country.
- Please be sure to use toy grade stuffing and do not add buttons, bells, ribbons etc that could be a danger to small children.
- The patterns are copyright protected and are not for commercial use. They cannot be sold, transmitted, distributed or reproduced in any form or by any means. I’ve worked hard to create the designs - please don’t sell my patterns - it’s just plain mean!
About mycrochetchums
I started mycrochetchums at the end of 2020 to give me something to focus on during lockdown and to make creative use of a box of Amigurumi Yarn that was an impulse purchase I was feeling guilty about!
I’m loving creating these cute characters and sharpening my tech skills in the process as I wrangle with managing a website and social media.
Check out the mycrochetchums Facebook page - drop me a message there if you have any feedback about the pattern or would like to share a picture of the end result.
You can also find me on Instagram @mycrochetchums.
If you have any questions about any of my patterns (or any other ami you may be working on) please email me at: [email protected] - I’ll do my best to help!
Happy Crocheting!
Pia x
©2023PIA SIMPSON/ MYCROCHETCHUMS
I started mycrochetchums at the end of 2020 to give me something to focus on during lockdown and to make creative use of a box of Amigurumi Yarn that was an impulse purchase I was feeling guilty about!
I’m loving creating these cute characters and sharpening my tech skills in the process as I wrangle with managing a website and social media.
Check out the mycrochetchums Facebook page - drop me a message there if you have any feedback about the pattern or would like to share a picture of the end result.
You can also find me on Instagram @mycrochetchums.
If you have any questions about any of my patterns (or any other ami you may be working on) please email me at: [email protected] - I’ll do my best to help!
Happy Crocheting!
Pia x
©2023PIA SIMPSON/ MYCROCHETCHUMS
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