How to Check your Crochet Tension/Gauge
Making and Using a Tension Swatch
It's easy once you know how!
"So what is Crochet Tension?"
Crochet Tension describes how tight or loose you crochet with a particular yarn and hook and is a measure of how many stitches and rows you make per centimetre.
You'll see it described in a pattern something like this:
"27 st x 30 rows = 10 cm measured over UK dc"
Patterns written in US Crochet terms will use the word Gauge rather than Tension - it's the same thing.
You'll see it described in a pattern something like this:
"27 st x 30 rows = 10 cm measured over UK dc"
Patterns written in US Crochet terms will use the word Gauge rather than Tension - it's the same thing.
"I'm making Amigurumi, so why does checking Crochet Tension matter?"
If you were making a garment you'd need to make sure your tension was the same as specified in the pattern to make sure the item came out the same size - if your tension was tighter the garment would be too small, if it was looser, it'd come out bigger than expected.
It is less important with Amigurumi - often crochet toy patterns (including mine!) will include wording along the lines of "Tension is not critical for this project but stitches should be tight enough to avoid stuffing showing through."
While that's true, if a pattern does include a measure for tension (I'm slowly updating all of mine to include this info) it's worth working up a quick tension swatch before you start. Sometimes you'll find you'll need to use a different sized hook to the one indicated in the pattern, as everyone's natural tension varies, as does how different yarns work up.
It is less important with Amigurumi - often crochet toy patterns (including mine!) will include wording along the lines of "Tension is not critical for this project but stitches should be tight enough to avoid stuffing showing through."
While that's true, if a pattern does include a measure for tension (I'm slowly updating all of mine to include this info) it's worth working up a quick tension swatch before you start. Sometimes you'll find you'll need to use a different sized hook to the one indicated in the pattern, as everyone's natural tension varies, as does how different yarns work up.
"What'll happen if I don't bother checking?"
Well the world won't end but just diving in without checking can mean your amigurumi comes out much larger or smaller than expected.
"What exactly is a Crochet Tension Square?"
Fig 1: A Crochet Tension square worked in rows of UK dc (US sc)
A tension square or swatch is simply a square of turned rows (as opposed to a Granny Square) of a specific stitch made with a specified hook size and the yarn you're intending to use for the final piece.
Your square should be a little larger than 10 cm - you don't want to be measuring/counting edge to edge, it's more accurate to measure a section within the square, away from the edges.
You need to make it using the yarn you're going to use for the project and with the hook size shown in the pattern.
My example in Fig 1 above was made with Scheepjes Catona 4 ply cotton on a 2mm hook as specified in my Walrus pattern.
Patterns usually give tension details in terms of the number of stitches and rows in a 10cm x 10 cm square (or sometimes 4 in x 4 in in US Terminology) - for example: "27 st x 30 rows = 10 cm measured over UK dc", so start off by making a chain a bit longer than 10 cm - my square in Fig 1 is roughly 13 cm wide.
Starting in the second chain from the hook, work one UK dc (US sc) in each stitch back down the chain. At the end turn and chain one (this is the turning chain to keep the piece square) and then UK dc (US sc) across. Carry on turning, chaining one and working UK dc across, building up the rows until you have a square.
Your square should be a little larger than 10 cm - you don't want to be measuring/counting edge to edge, it's more accurate to measure a section within the square, away from the edges.
You need to make it using the yarn you're going to use for the project and with the hook size shown in the pattern.
My example in Fig 1 above was made with Scheepjes Catona 4 ply cotton on a 2mm hook as specified in my Walrus pattern.
Patterns usually give tension details in terms of the number of stitches and rows in a 10cm x 10 cm square (or sometimes 4 in x 4 in in US Terminology) - for example: "27 st x 30 rows = 10 cm measured over UK dc", so start off by making a chain a bit longer than 10 cm - my square in Fig 1 is roughly 13 cm wide.
Starting in the second chain from the hook, work one UK dc (US sc) in each stitch back down the chain. At the end turn and chain one (this is the turning chain to keep the piece square) and then UK dc (US sc) across. Carry on turning, chaining one and working UK dc across, building up the rows until you have a square.
"Now what do I do with it? How do I measure my crochet tension?"
Fig 2: Counting the number of stitches horizontally. Click on image to enlarge.
Lay the square on a flat surface (if you were checking tension for a garment, you'd need to block the square but you don't need to for Amigurumi). My square is pinned down at the corners but that's only to stop it curling up in the photos, you won't need to do that.
Lay a tape measure or ruler horizontally on top of the square - bringing the end of it in from the edge slightly. You need to count the stitches between the end of the tape/ruler and the 10 cm mark.
Lay a tape measure or ruler horizontally on top of the square - bringing the end of it in from the edge slightly. You need to count the stitches between the end of the tape/ruler and the 10 cm mark.
Fig 3: Use the bars of UK dc (US sc) to help you count the stitches.
Click on image to enlarge
With UK dc (US sc) it's easiest to count the horizontal bars - highlighted in Fig 3 above.
You can see from the little arrows in Fig 2 above that there's 27 stitches in 10 cm of a row on my square.
You can see from the little arrows in Fig 2 above that there's 27 stitches in 10 cm of a row on my square.
"I have more stitches in 10cm than the pattern states, what does this mean?"
This means you're crocheting tighter than the pattern designer and your amigurumi will come out smaller than the size shown in the pattern.
"What do I do about it?"
If you want it to come out closer in size to theirs you'll need to use a larger hook. Try going up a hook size and start another swatch - work half a dozen rows or so and then count the number of stitches in 10 cm again - with a larger hook, you'll have fewer stitches. If there's still too many, you may need to go up another half size or so.
"What about if my tension square has less stitches per 10 cm?"
This means your crochet tension is looser that the pattern designer's and so your amigurumi will come out bigger than theirs.
"So I need to try a smaller hook?"
That's right, you've got it!
"What about counting the rows in 10cm, how do I do that?"
Fig 4: Counting the number of rows vertically. Click on image to enlarge.
Turn the tape/ruler so that it's lying vertically on the swatch, again sitting in slightly from the edge.
This time, count the rows between the end of the tape and the 10 cm mark. With UK dc (US sc) you can count the rows in pairs - the horizontal bars you used to count the stitches sit between two horizontal grooves - each of these sections equals two rows. You can see that my square has 30 rows in 10 cm.
This time, count the rows between the end of the tape and the 10 cm mark. With UK dc (US sc) you can count the rows in pairs - the horizontal bars you used to count the stitches sit between two horizontal grooves - each of these sections equals two rows. You can see that my square has 30 rows in 10 cm.
"I've got more/less rows in 10cm - what does this mean?"
The number of rows is less important for Amigurumi. If you were making a garment it would affect the length of the finished piece. In Amigurumi, it's an indicator that the proportions of your piece may come out differently to the designer's.
Less rows per 10 cm? Your ami will probably be a bit elongated.
More rows per 10 cm? Your ami will be dumpier - a little fatter in relation to it's height.
You can't tweak the number of rows by changing the hook size, it can be altered a bit by changing how you hold the yarn or work the stitch, but to be honest, it won't make a huge amount of difference for Amigurumi. If you're using a yarn similar in weight to the one specified in the pattern, the chances are there'll be only a small variation in the number of rows per 10cm. If there's a drastic difference in the number of rows, you might want to consider using a different yarn.
Less rows per 10 cm? Your ami will probably be a bit elongated.
More rows per 10 cm? Your ami will be dumpier - a little fatter in relation to it's height.
You can't tweak the number of rows by changing the hook size, it can be altered a bit by changing how you hold the yarn or work the stitch, but to be honest, it won't make a huge amount of difference for Amigurumi. If you're using a yarn similar in weight to the one specified in the pattern, the chances are there'll be only a small variation in the number of rows per 10cm. If there's a drastic difference in the number of rows, you might want to consider using a different yarn.
"Anything else I should know?"
If it's a yarn brand and weight you often use, it might be worth keeping the swatch - attach a tag with the details of the stitch, the size of hook used and the number of stitches and rows in 10 cm. You can build up a library of swatches to refer to at a glance when starting a new project, rather than having to crochet up a new tension square every time.
Alternatively, make the square but don't fasten it off, leave it attached to the ball. Once you've counted the stitches and rows you can frog (unravel) it and use it in your project.
Don't get hung up on this! It's a useful thing to know how to do - especially if you're experimenting with different yarn - but 9 times out of 10 tension isn't critical for Amigurumi. The one time I'd definitely want to check it would be if I was making an Ami with clothes and wanted to use a mixture of yarns - then you do need to know if your tension matches the pattern so that the clothes will definitely fit!
Alternatively, make the square but don't fasten it off, leave it attached to the ball. Once you've counted the stitches and rows you can frog (unravel) it and use it in your project.
Don't get hung up on this! It's a useful thing to know how to do - especially if you're experimenting with different yarn - but 9 times out of 10 tension isn't critical for Amigurumi. The one time I'd definitely want to check it would be if I was making an Ami with clothes and wanted to use a mixture of yarns - then you do need to know if your tension matches the pattern so that the clothes will definitely fit!
