#stashbusterchums - No 52 - Spring Chicken
Scroll down for pattern and more photos!
Yarn
Scheepjes Catona 4ply, 100% Cotton. 125m per 50g
MC: 25g approx of Lavender (520) for Body and Beak.
CC1: 20g approx of Apple Granny (513) for Neck Trim, Wings, Legs and Feet.
CC2: 15g approx of Lemonade (403) for Head.
CC3: 15g approx of Watermelon (252) for Head Crest, Wattles and Tail.
CC4: Small amount of Bridal White (105) for Outer Eyes and embroidered Chest detail.
CC5: Small amount of Jet Black (110) for Inner Eyes.
A cotton yarn works well for Ami as it gives good stitch definition and creates a firm structure so body parts hold their shape well. Catona is a relatively thick 4 ply (US: Sport) - you can substitute a DK Cotton (US: DK/Light Worsted) with a similar amount of metres per 50g.
Scheepjes Catona 4ply, 100% Cotton. 125m per 50g
MC: 25g approx of Lavender (520) for Body and Beak.
CC1: 20g approx of Apple Granny (513) for Neck Trim, Wings, Legs and Feet.
CC2: 15g approx of Lemonade (403) for Head.
CC3: 15g approx of Watermelon (252) for Head Crest, Wattles and Tail.
CC4: Small amount of Bridal White (105) for Outer Eyes and embroidered Chest detail.
CC5: Small amount of Jet Black (110) for Inner Eyes.
A cotton yarn works well for Ami as it gives good stitch definition and creates a firm structure so body parts hold their shape well. Catona is a relatively thick 4 ply (US: Sport) - you can substitute a DK Cotton (US: DK/Light Worsted) with a similar amount of metres per 50g.
Hook
3mm
3mm
Other Supplies
Yarn needle, toy stuffing, stitch marker/waste yarn, pins and scissors.
Yarn needle, toy stuffing, stitch marker/waste yarn, pins and scissors.
Tension
24 sts x 27 rows = 10cm measured over dc using 3mm hook.
Tension is not critical for this project but stitches should be tight enough to avoid stuffing showing through.
24 sts x 27 rows = 10cm measured over dc using 3mm hook.
Tension is not critical for this project but stitches should be tight enough to avoid stuffing showing through.
Size
15 cm (6 in) approx from base of Body to top of Head Crest (does not include Legs and Feet which are approx 9cm/3.5 in long).
15 cm (6 in) approx from base of Body to top of Head Crest (does not include Legs and Feet which are approx 9cm/3.5 in long).
Pattern Notes
Unless otherwise specified this pattern is worked in the amigurumi style, in a continuous spiral without slip stitching or turning chains.
Use a stitch marker or waste yarn to keep track of the first stitch of each round.
If you do not want to make a Magic Ring you can start each piece by making a chain of 2 and then work the first round into the second chain from the hook.
If you would like to start with a Magic Ring but don’t know how, you can find a Photo Tutorial HERE.
The Chicken is made of multiple separate pieces sewn together. Unless otherwise stated, finish each piece by pulling the yarn through the last loop and leave a long tail for sewing. Any loose tails at the end can be easily woven in.
Unless otherwise specified this pattern is worked in the amigurumi style, in a continuous spiral without slip stitching or turning chains.
Use a stitch marker or waste yarn to keep track of the first stitch of each round.
If you do not want to make a Magic Ring you can start each piece by making a chain of 2 and then work the first round into the second chain from the hook.
If you would like to start with a Magic Ring but don’t know how, you can find a Photo Tutorial HERE.
The Chicken is made of multiple separate pieces sewn together. Unless otherwise stated, finish each piece by pulling the yarn through the last loop and leave a long tail for sewing. Any loose tails at the end can be easily woven in.
UK Crochet Terms - Abbreviations
This pattern is written using UK Crochet Terms - they are NOT the same as US ones - please familiarise yourself with the UK terms to avoid your character’s shape distorting!
The “dc” abbreviation used in this pattern refers to UK double crochet. The equivalent stitch in US terms is single crochet - if you are used to US patterns you need to work single crochet everywhere this pattern says “dc”. If you work US dc (equivalent to UK Treble) the finished item will be elongated and the stuffing will show through.
This pattern also uses UK htr (half treble), and UK tr (treble) - the equivalent stitches in US terms are US hdc (half double) and US dc (double).
If you are used to working in US Crochet Terms you can find a conversion chart HERE.
If you are unfamiliar with any of the terms used in this pattern, you can find a chart of the UK Crochet terms used HERE.
This pattern is written using UK Crochet Terms - they are NOT the same as US ones - please familiarise yourself with the UK terms to avoid your character’s shape distorting!
The “dc” abbreviation used in this pattern refers to UK double crochet. The equivalent stitch in US terms is single crochet - if you are used to US patterns you need to work single crochet everywhere this pattern says “dc”. If you work US dc (equivalent to UK Treble) the finished item will be elongated and the stuffing will show through.
This pattern also uses UK htr (half treble), and UK tr (treble) - the equivalent stitches in US terms are US hdc (half double) and US dc (double).
If you are used to working in US Crochet Terms you can find a conversion chart HERE.
If you are unfamiliar with any of the terms used in this pattern, you can find a chart of the UK Crochet terms used HERE.
Increasing and decreasing
You may use either standard increases and decreases in this pattern or, for a much neater finish, invisible ones. FLO = Front loop only.
Decrease - "dc2tog" in pattern.
Invisible decrease: Insert hook in FLO of the two stitches to be decreased, yrh, pull through both front loops, yrh, draw through two loops on hook.
Increase - "2 dc in next st" in pattern.
Invisible Increase: Work 1 dc in FLO of next st and 1 dc in both loops of same st.
You may use either standard increases and decreases in this pattern or, for a much neater finish, invisible ones. FLO = Front loop only.
Decrease - "dc2tog" in pattern.
Invisible decrease: Insert hook in FLO of the two stitches to be decreased, yrh, pull through both front loops, yrh, draw through two loops on hook.
Increase - "2 dc in next st" in pattern.
Invisible Increase: Work 1 dc in FLO of next st and 1 dc in both loops of same st.
Body
Worked from the base up. Stuff as you go. Chains are not included in the stitch count. This piece is made using an Oval Start, rather than using a magic ring, if you are unfamiliar with this technique, you can find a Photo Tutorial showing the principle of it HERE.
With MC, chain 4.
Rnd 1: Starting in the second ch from hook, 3 dc, 2 ch, rotating as you go, 3 dc in other side of ch, 2 ch. 6 sts
Rnd 2: [3 dc, 3 dc in 2 ch-sp] twice. 12 sts
Rnd 3: *3 dc, [2 dc in next st] 3 times**; rep from * to ** once more. 18 sts
Rnd 4: *4 dc, [2 dc in next st, 1 dc] twice, 2 dc in next st**; rep from * to ** once more. 24 sts
Rnd 5: *2 dc in next st, 5 dc, [2 dc in next st, 2 dc] twice**; rep from * to ** once more. 30 sts
Rnd 6: 1 dc, 2 dc in next st, [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 5 times, 3 dc. 36 sts
Rnd 7: 2 dc, 2 dc in next st, [5 dc, 2 dc in next st] 5 times, 3 dc. 42 sts
Rnd 8: 3 dc, 2 dc in next st, [6 dc, 2 dc in next st] 5 times, 3 dc. 48 sts
Rnd 9: 4 dc, 2 dc in next st, [7 dc, 2 dc in next st] 5 times, 3 dc. 54 sts
Rnd 10: 5 dc, 2 dc in next st, [8 dc, 2 dc in next st] 5 times, 3 dc. 60 sts
Rnds 11-17: Dc around.
Rnd 18: [8 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 54 sts
Rnd 19: Dc around.
Rnd 20: [7 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 48 sts
Rnd 21: Dc around.
Rnd 22: [6 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 42 sts
Rnd 23: Dc around.
Rnd 24: [5 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnd 25: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 26: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 27: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 28: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnd 29: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Fasten off. Weave yarn tail through FLO of last 6 sts and pull to close hole. Weave in end.
Worked from the base up. Stuff as you go. Chains are not included in the stitch count. This piece is made using an Oval Start, rather than using a magic ring, if you are unfamiliar with this technique, you can find a Photo Tutorial showing the principle of it HERE.
With MC, chain 4.
Rnd 1: Starting in the second ch from hook, 3 dc, 2 ch, rotating as you go, 3 dc in other side of ch, 2 ch. 6 sts
Rnd 2: [3 dc, 3 dc in 2 ch-sp] twice. 12 sts
Rnd 3: *3 dc, [2 dc in next st] 3 times**; rep from * to ** once more. 18 sts
Rnd 4: *4 dc, [2 dc in next st, 1 dc] twice, 2 dc in next st**; rep from * to ** once more. 24 sts
Rnd 5: *2 dc in next st, 5 dc, [2 dc in next st, 2 dc] twice**; rep from * to ** once more. 30 sts
Rnd 6: 1 dc, 2 dc in next st, [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 5 times, 3 dc. 36 sts
Rnd 7: 2 dc, 2 dc in next st, [5 dc, 2 dc in next st] 5 times, 3 dc. 42 sts
Rnd 8: 3 dc, 2 dc in next st, [6 dc, 2 dc in next st] 5 times, 3 dc. 48 sts
Rnd 9: 4 dc, 2 dc in next st, [7 dc, 2 dc in next st] 5 times, 3 dc. 54 sts
Rnd 10: 5 dc, 2 dc in next st, [8 dc, 2 dc in next st] 5 times, 3 dc. 60 sts
Rnds 11-17: Dc around.
Rnd 18: [8 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 54 sts
Rnd 19: Dc around.
Rnd 20: [7 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 48 sts
Rnd 21: Dc around.
Rnd 22: [6 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 42 sts
Rnd 23: Dc around.
Rnd 24: [5 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnd 25: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 26: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 27: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 28: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnd 29: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Fasten off. Weave yarn tail through FLO of last 6 sts and pull to close hole. Weave in end.
Head
Worked from the top of the Head down. Stuff as you go. Slip stitches in Rnd 21 are not counted in stitch count.
Rnd 1: With CC2 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnds 4-5: Dc around.
Rnd 6: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnds 7-12: Dc around.
Rnd 13: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnds 14-17: Dc around.
Rnd 18: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnd 19: Dc around.
Change to CC1.
Rnd 20: Dc around.
Rnd 21: Working in FLO for whole round, *[1 dc, 1 htr] in next st, [2 tr in next st], [1 htr, 1 dc] in next st, 1 sl st**; rep from * to ** 8 more times. 54 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew Head to Body (using unused back loops of Rnd 20) once you have made all the parts.
Worked from the top of the Head down. Stuff as you go. Slip stitches in Rnd 21 are not counted in stitch count.
Rnd 1: With CC2 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnds 4-5: Dc around.
Rnd 6: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnds 7-12: Dc around.
Rnd 13: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnds 14-17: Dc around.
Rnd 18: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnd 19: Dc around.
Change to CC1.
Rnd 20: Dc around.
Rnd 21: Working in FLO for whole round, *[1 dc, 1 htr] in next st, [2 tr in next st], [1 htr, 1 dc] in next st, 1 sl st**; rep from * to ** 8 more times. 54 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew Head to Body (using unused back loops of Rnd 20) once you have made all the parts.
Head Crest - make 3
Do not stuff.
Rnd 1: With CC3 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnd 3: Dc around.
Rnd 4: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 6 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Head Crest pieces to the Head once you have made all the parts.
Do not stuff.
Rnd 1: With CC3 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnd 3: Dc around.
Rnd 4: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 6 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Head Crest pieces to the Head once you have made all the parts.
Wattles - make 2
(They're the dangly bits under the beak!) Do not stuff.
Rnd 1: With CC3 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnd 3: Dc around.
Rnd 4: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 6 sts
Rnd 5: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] twice. 4 sts
Fasten off. Weave yarn tail through FLO of last 4 sts and pull to close hole. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Wattle pieces to the Head once you have made all the parts.
(They're the dangly bits under the beak!) Do not stuff.
Rnd 1: With CC3 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnd 3: Dc around.
Rnd 4: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 6 sts
Rnd 5: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] twice. 4 sts
Fasten off. Weave yarn tail through FLO of last 4 sts and pull to close hole. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Wattle pieces to the Head once you have made all the parts.
Beak
Do not stuff.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 4 dc. 4 sts
Rnd 2: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] twice. 6 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 12 sts
Rnds 5-6: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Beak to the Head once you have made all the parts.
Do not stuff.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 4 dc. 4 sts
Rnd 2: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] twice. 6 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 12 sts
Rnds 5-6: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Beak to the Head once you have made all the parts.
Outer Eye - make 2
Rnd 1: With CC4 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. Sl st in first dc to join. 12 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Outer Eye to the Head once you have made all the parts.
Inner Eye - make 2
Rnd 1: With CC5 and working into a magic ring, 4 dc. Sl st in first dc to join. 4 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Inner Eye to the Head once you have made all the parts.
Rnd 1: With CC4 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. Sl st in first dc to join. 12 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Outer Eye to the Head once you have made all the parts.
Inner Eye - make 2
Rnd 1: With CC5 and working into a magic ring, 4 dc. Sl st in first dc to join. 4 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Inner Eye to the Head once you have made all the parts.
Wings - make 2
Do not stuff. Worked from the tip of the Wing back towards the Body.
Rnd 1: With CC1 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: Dc around.
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 12 sts
Rnd 5: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 15 sts
Rnd 6: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 18 sts
Rnd 7: 7 dc, 1 dc2tog, 9 dc. 17 sts
Rnd 8: 8 dc, 1 dc2tog, 7 dc. 16 sts
Rnd 9: 9 dc, 1 dc2tog, 5 dc. 15 sts
Rnd 10: 5 dc, 3 dc2tog, 4 dc. 12 sts
Rnd 11: 4 dc, 3 dc2tog, 2 dc. 9 sts
Rnd 12: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 6 sts
Fasten off. Weave yarn tail through FLO of last 6 sts and pull to close hole. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Wings to the body once you have made all the parts.
Do not stuff. Worked from the tip of the Wing back towards the Body.
Rnd 1: With CC1 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: Dc around.
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 12 sts
Rnd 5: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 15 sts
Rnd 6: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 18 sts
Rnd 7: 7 dc, 1 dc2tog, 9 dc. 17 sts
Rnd 8: 8 dc, 1 dc2tog, 7 dc. 16 sts
Rnd 9: 9 dc, 1 dc2tog, 5 dc. 15 sts
Rnd 10: 5 dc, 3 dc2tog, 4 dc. 12 sts
Rnd 11: 4 dc, 3 dc2tog, 2 dc. 9 sts
Rnd 12: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 6 sts
Fasten off. Weave yarn tail through FLO of last 6 sts and pull to close hole. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Wings to the body once you have made all the parts.
Legs - make 2
Do not stuff. Feet and Legs are made separately. Worked from the Foot end back up towards the Body.
Rnd 1: With CC1 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: Working in BLO for whole round, dc around.
Rnds 3-15: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Legs to the Body once you have made all the parts.
Do not stuff. Feet and Legs are made separately. Worked from the Foot end back up towards the Body.
Rnd 1: With CC1 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: Working in BLO for whole round, dc around.
Rnds 3-15: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Legs to the Body once you have made all the parts.
Feet - make 2
For each Foot, you will be making three separate toes, joining them together and then continuing on with the rest of the Foot. Do not stuff.
Toe "A"
Rnd 1: With CC1 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 6 sts
Rnd 4: Dc around.
Rnd 5: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] twice. 4 sts
Fasten off. The next unused stitch, where you would start the next round if there was one, is the first stitch you will work into when you join the toes later in Rnd 6 below.
Toe "B"
Make exactly the same as Toe "A", fasten off at the end of Rnd 5.
Toe "C"
As with Toes A & B, work Rnds 1-5 but DO NOT fasten off - carry on to Rnd 6 below to join the toes.
Rnd 6: Starting in the next unused stitch of the specified toes work: 2 dc into Toe C, 2 dc into Toe B, rotating as you go, 4 dc into Toe A, 2 dc into Toe B and 2 dc into Toe C. 12 sts
It is usual for there to be small gaps between the toes when joined - these can be stitched closed with a length of CC1 and a yarn needle once the foot is completed.
Rnd 7: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnd 8: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 6 sts
Fasten off. Weave yarn tail through FLO of last 6 sts and pull to close hole. Weave in end.
For each Foot, you will be making three separate toes, joining them together and then continuing on with the rest of the Foot. Do not stuff.
Toe "A"
Rnd 1: With CC1 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 6 sts
Rnd 4: Dc around.
Rnd 5: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] twice. 4 sts
Fasten off. The next unused stitch, where you would start the next round if there was one, is the first stitch you will work into when you join the toes later in Rnd 6 below.
Toe "B"
Make exactly the same as Toe "A", fasten off at the end of Rnd 5.
Toe "C"
As with Toes A & B, work Rnds 1-5 but DO NOT fasten off - carry on to Rnd 6 below to join the toes.
Rnd 6: Starting in the next unused stitch of the specified toes work: 2 dc into Toe C, 2 dc into Toe B, rotating as you go, 4 dc into Toe A, 2 dc into Toe B and 2 dc into Toe C. 12 sts
It is usual for there to be small gaps between the toes when joined - these can be stitched closed with a length of CC1 and a yarn needle once the foot is completed.
Rnd 7: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnd 8: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 6 sts
Fasten off. Weave yarn tail through FLO of last 6 sts and pull to close hole. Weave in end.
Tail
The Tail is made of 3 separate Tail Pieces, joined using a similar technique to the Feet. Do not stuff.
Tail Piece "A"
Rnd 1: With CC3 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnd 3: Dc around.
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 12 sts
Rnds 5-6: Dc around.
Rnd 7: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnd 8: Dc around.
Rnd 9: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 6 sts
Rnds 10-12: Dc around.
Fasten off. The next unused stitch, where you would start the next round if there was one, is the first stitch you will work into when you join the toes later in Rnd 13 below.
Tail Piece "B"
Make exactly the same as Tail Piece "A", fasten off at the end of Rnd 12.
Tail Piece "C"
As with Tail Pieces A & B, work Rnds 1-12 but DO NOT fasten off - carry on to Rnd 13 below to join the Tail Pieces.
Rnd 13: Starting in the next unused stitch of the specified Tail Pieces work: 3 dc into Toe C, 3 dc into Toe B, rotating as you go, 6 dc into Toe A, 3 dc into Toe B and 3 dc into Toe C. 18 sts
It is usual for there to be small gaps between the tail pieces when joined - these can be stitched closed with a length of CC1 and a yarn needle once theta is completed.
Rnd 14: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnd 15: Dc around.
Rnd 16: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Fasten off. Weave yarn tail through FLO of last 6 sts and pull to close hole. Leave a long yarn tail to sew Tail to Body once you have made all the parts.
The Tail is made of 3 separate Tail Pieces, joined using a similar technique to the Feet. Do not stuff.
Tail Piece "A"
Rnd 1: With CC3 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnd 3: Dc around.
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 12 sts
Rnds 5-6: Dc around.
Rnd 7: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnd 8: Dc around.
Rnd 9: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 6 sts
Rnds 10-12: Dc around.
Fasten off. The next unused stitch, where you would start the next round if there was one, is the first stitch you will work into when you join the toes later in Rnd 13 below.
Tail Piece "B"
Make exactly the same as Tail Piece "A", fasten off at the end of Rnd 12.
Tail Piece "C"
As with Tail Pieces A & B, work Rnds 1-12 but DO NOT fasten off - carry on to Rnd 13 below to join the Tail Pieces.
Rnd 13: Starting in the next unused stitch of the specified Tail Pieces work: 3 dc into Toe C, 3 dc into Toe B, rotating as you go, 6 dc into Toe A, 3 dc into Toe B and 3 dc into Toe C. 18 sts
It is usual for there to be small gaps between the tail pieces when joined - these can be stitched closed with a length of CC1 and a yarn needle once theta is completed.
Rnd 14: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnd 15: Dc around.
Rnd 16: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Fasten off. Weave yarn tail through FLO of last 6 sts and pull to close hole. Leave a long yarn tail to sew Tail to Body once you have made all the parts.
Making Up
Using the photographs as a guide, pin the pieces together before sewing, checking from all angles to make sure you’re happy with the positioning, then use the long yarn tails or a length of yarn with a yarn needle to stitch the pieces together.
Start with the Body - make sure the starting chain on the underside runs lengthways - so one end of it is at the front end of the Chicken and the other is at the back end. Before you start positioning the other parts, you may find it helpful to insert a line of pins running through the starting chain, up the centre of the front of the Body, across the back and down the middle of the back end of the Body - this will help you to position everything else evenly in relation to that central line. Remove any pins that are in the way of the pieces you are attaching as you go.
Position the Head angled forwards on the front end of the the Body, the bottom edge of the Head piece should sit roughly in line with Rnd 18 of the Body. Stitch the Head to the Body through the unused back loops of Rnd 20 of the Head.
Stitch the Head Crest pieces in place on the top of the Head - the Middle one should sit over the top of Rnd 1 of the Head, with one of the others directly in front and the other directly behind.
Stitch the Beak in place on the front of the Head, sitting about 2 rounds down from the front Head Crest piece.
Stitch one Outer Eye on each side of the Head. Stitch one Inner Eye on top of each Outer Eye, off set forwards and down slightly on each side.
Stitch one Wing on each side of the Body, attaching them roughly in line with Rnd 16 of the Body. Just attach the front end of each Wing.
Stitch the Tail in place on the back end of the Chicken - the base of the Tail should be roughly in line with Rnd 12 of the Body. Just attach it by sewing through its last 4 rounds or so, leaving the rest of the Tail unattached.
Using a length of CC1, sew the Feet to the bottom of the Legs, sitting at a right angle. Stitch the Legs to the base of the Body, roughly in line with Rnd 4 of the Body, set towards the front of the base so the Chicken can sit on her bottom, making sure her feet are facing forwards. The Legs should be attached about 4 stitches apart.
Using the photographs as a guide, pin the pieces together before sewing, checking from all angles to make sure you’re happy with the positioning, then use the long yarn tails or a length of yarn with a yarn needle to stitch the pieces together.
Start with the Body - make sure the starting chain on the underside runs lengthways - so one end of it is at the front end of the Chicken and the other is at the back end. Before you start positioning the other parts, you may find it helpful to insert a line of pins running through the starting chain, up the centre of the front of the Body, across the back and down the middle of the back end of the Body - this will help you to position everything else evenly in relation to that central line. Remove any pins that are in the way of the pieces you are attaching as you go.
Position the Head angled forwards on the front end of the the Body, the bottom edge of the Head piece should sit roughly in line with Rnd 18 of the Body. Stitch the Head to the Body through the unused back loops of Rnd 20 of the Head.
Stitch the Head Crest pieces in place on the top of the Head - the Middle one should sit over the top of Rnd 1 of the Head, with one of the others directly in front and the other directly behind.
Stitch the Beak in place on the front of the Head, sitting about 2 rounds down from the front Head Crest piece.
Stitch one Outer Eye on each side of the Head. Stitch one Inner Eye on top of each Outer Eye, off set forwards and down slightly on each side.
Stitch one Wing on each side of the Body, attaching them roughly in line with Rnd 16 of the Body. Just attach the front end of each Wing.
Stitch the Tail in place on the back end of the Chicken - the base of the Tail should be roughly in line with Rnd 12 of the Body. Just attach it by sewing through its last 4 rounds or so, leaving the rest of the Tail unattached.
Using a length of CC1, sew the Feet to the bottom of the Legs, sitting at a right angle. Stitch the Legs to the base of the Body, roughly in line with Rnd 4 of the Body, set towards the front of the base so the Chicken can sit on her bottom, making sure her feet are facing forwards. The Legs should be attached about 4 stitches apart.
Embroidered Details
Using the photos as a guide, embroider the following with CC4:
Single stitch Eye Highlight on each Eye.
V shaped Feather decoration on the Chicken's chest.
All done!
Using the photos as a guide, embroider the following with CC4:
Single stitch Eye Highlight on each Eye.
V shaped Feather decoration on the Chicken's chest.
All done!
Terms of Use
I am happy for you to donate, gift or sell any of the my crochet chums you make if you are an individual crafter - please credit mycrochetchums.com as the designer.
If you do wish to sell your my crochet chums, it is your responsibility to ensure that the finished item complies with the relevant toy legislation in your country.
Please be sure to use toy grade stuffing and do not add buttons, bells, ribbons etc that could be a danger to small children.
The patterns are copyright protected and are not for commercial use. They cannot be sold, transmitted, distributed or reproduced in any form or by any means. I’ve worked hard to create the designs - please don’t sell my patterns - it’s just plain mean!
I am happy for you to donate, gift or sell any of the my crochet chums you make if you are an individual crafter - please credit mycrochetchums.com as the designer.
If you do wish to sell your my crochet chums, it is your responsibility to ensure that the finished item complies with the relevant toy legislation in your country.
Please be sure to use toy grade stuffing and do not add buttons, bells, ribbons etc that could be a danger to small children.
The patterns are copyright protected and are not for commercial use. They cannot be sold, transmitted, distributed or reproduced in any form or by any means. I’ve worked hard to create the designs - please don’t sell my patterns - it’s just plain mean!
About mycrochetchums
I started mycrochetchums at the end of 2020 to give me something to focus on during lockdown and to make creative use of a box of Amigurumi Yarn that was an impulse purchase I was feeling guilty about!
I’m loving creating these cute characters and sharpening my tech skills in the process as I wrangle with managing a website and social media.
Check out the mycrochetchums Facebook page - drop me a message there if you have any feedback about the pattern or would like to share a picture of the end result.
You can also find me on Instagram @mycrochetchums.
If you have any questions about any of my patterns (or any other ami you may be working on) please email me at: [email protected] - I’ll do my best to help!
Happy Crocheting!
Pia x
©PIA SIMPSON/ MYCROCHETCHUMS 2022
I started mycrochetchums at the end of 2020 to give me something to focus on during lockdown and to make creative use of a box of Amigurumi Yarn that was an impulse purchase I was feeling guilty about!
I’m loving creating these cute characters and sharpening my tech skills in the process as I wrangle with managing a website and social media.
Check out the mycrochetchums Facebook page - drop me a message there if you have any feedback about the pattern or would like to share a picture of the end result.
You can also find me on Instagram @mycrochetchums.
If you have any questions about any of my patterns (or any other ami you may be working on) please email me at: [email protected] - I’ll do my best to help!
Happy Crocheting!
Pia x
©PIA SIMPSON/ MYCROCHETCHUMS 2022