Free Amigurumi Crochet Spider Pattern
Let's get started...
Yarn
Scheepjes Catona. 100% Cotton. 125m per 50g.
MC: 10g approx of Apple Granny (513) - Body & Nose.
CC1: 20g approx of Cyan (397) - Body, Head & Legs.
CC2: 20g approx of Cherry (413) - Hat Band, Bow Tie, Legs & Spots.
CC3: 10g approx of Sweet Orange (411) - Legs & Spots.
CC4: 15 g approx of Delphinium (113) - Hat, Legs & Spots.
CC5: Small amount of Jet Black (110) for Eyes and Mouth.
CC6: Small amount of Snow White (106) - Eye Highlight.
A cotton yarn works well for Ami as it gives good stitch definition and creates a firm structure so body parts hold their shape well. Scheepjes Catona is a relatively thick 4 ply (US: Sport) - you can substitute a DK Cotton (US: DK/Light Worsted) with a similar amount of metres per 50g.
You can scale this pattern up or down by altering the yarn and hook. Use a heavier weight yarn and larger hook for a bigger Spider and a lighter weight yarn and smaller hook for a little one.
To read more about scaling an Amigurumi pattern up or down, check out my guide HERE.
Scheepjes Catona. 100% Cotton. 125m per 50g.
MC: 10g approx of Apple Granny (513) - Body & Nose.
CC1: 20g approx of Cyan (397) - Body, Head & Legs.
CC2: 20g approx of Cherry (413) - Hat Band, Bow Tie, Legs & Spots.
CC3: 10g approx of Sweet Orange (411) - Legs & Spots.
CC4: 15 g approx of Delphinium (113) - Hat, Legs & Spots.
CC5: Small amount of Jet Black (110) for Eyes and Mouth.
CC6: Small amount of Snow White (106) - Eye Highlight.
A cotton yarn works well for Ami as it gives good stitch definition and creates a firm structure so body parts hold their shape well. Scheepjes Catona is a relatively thick 4 ply (US: Sport) - you can substitute a DK Cotton (US: DK/Light Worsted) with a similar amount of metres per 50g.
You can scale this pattern up or down by altering the yarn and hook. Use a heavier weight yarn and larger hook for a bigger Spider and a lighter weight yarn and smaller hook for a little one.
To read more about scaling an Amigurumi pattern up or down, check out my guide HERE.
Hook
2mm - for the yarn specified above.
Other Supplies
Yarn needle, toy stuffing, stitch marker/waste yarn, pins and scissors.
Tension
27 st x 30 rows = 10cm/4in measured over UK dc using 2mm hook with Scheepjes Catona 4 ply cotton.
Tension is not critical for this project but stitches should be tight enough to avoid stuffing showing through.
Size
The Spider is approx 24cm across from Leg to Leg.
2mm - for the yarn specified above.
Other Supplies
Yarn needle, toy stuffing, stitch marker/waste yarn, pins and scissors.
Tension
27 st x 30 rows = 10cm/4in measured over UK dc using 2mm hook with Scheepjes Catona 4 ply cotton.
Tension is not critical for this project but stitches should be tight enough to avoid stuffing showing through.
Size
The Spider is approx 24cm across from Leg to Leg.
Pattern Notes
The Spider's Body and Head are made in the Amigurumi style as a continuous spiral. Joined rounds are used on the Legs so that there are no jagged steps between the colours. Full instructions are given in the Legs part of the pattern but you can also find a Photo Tutorial showing the principle of the Joined Rounds technique HERE.
Use a stitch marker or waste yarn to keep track of the first stitch of each round. You can find a Photo Tutorial about using waste yarn as a stitch marker HERE.
If you don't want to make a Magic Ring you can start each piece by making a chain of 2 and then work the first round into the second chain from the hook.
If you'd like to start with a Magic Ring but don’t know how, you can find a Photo Tutorial HERE.
The Spider is made of multiple separate pieces sewn together. Unless otherwise stated, finish each piece by pulling the yarn through the last loop and leave a long tail for sewing. Any loose tails at the end can be easily woven in.
Make all the parts first then assemble in order shown in the Making Up instructions.
The Spider's Body and Head are made in the Amigurumi style as a continuous spiral. Joined rounds are used on the Legs so that there are no jagged steps between the colours. Full instructions are given in the Legs part of the pattern but you can also find a Photo Tutorial showing the principle of the Joined Rounds technique HERE.
Use a stitch marker or waste yarn to keep track of the first stitch of each round. You can find a Photo Tutorial about using waste yarn as a stitch marker HERE.
If you don't want to make a Magic Ring you can start each piece by making a chain of 2 and then work the first round into the second chain from the hook.
If you'd like to start with a Magic Ring but don’t know how, you can find a Photo Tutorial HERE.
The Spider is made of multiple separate pieces sewn together. Unless otherwise stated, finish each piece by pulling the yarn through the last loop and leave a long tail for sewing. Any loose tails at the end can be easily woven in.
Make all the parts first then assemble in order shown in the Making Up instructions.
UK Crochet Terms - Abbreviations
The pattern below is written using UK Crochet Terms - they are NOT the same as US ones - please familiarise yourself with the UK terms to avoid your character’s shape distorting!
The “dc” abbreviation used in this pattern refers to UK double crochet. The equivalent stitch in US terms is single crochet - if you are used to US patterns you need to work single crochet everywhere this pattern says “dc”. If you work US dc (equivalent to UK Treble) the finished item will be elongated and the stuffing will show through.
This pattern also uses UK tr - treble crochet. The equivalent stitch in US terms is US dc - double crochet.
Increasing and decreasing
You may use either standard increases and decreases in this pattern or, for a much neater finish, invisible ones. FLO = Front loop only.
Decrease - "dc2tog" in pattern.
Standard Decrease: Insert hook in next st, yrh, pull through stitch (2 loops on hook), insert hook in next st, yrh, pull up a loop (3 loops on hook), yrh, pull through all 3 loops on hook.
Invisible decrease: Insert hook in FLO of the two stitches to be decreased, yrh, pull through both front loops, yrh, pull through two loops on hook.
Increase - "2 dc in next st" in pattern.
Standard Increase: Work 2 dc in next st.
Invisible Increase: Work 1 dc in FLO of next st and 1 dc in both loops of same st.
The pattern below is written using UK Crochet Terms - they are NOT the same as US ones - please familiarise yourself with the UK terms to avoid your character’s shape distorting!
The “dc” abbreviation used in this pattern refers to UK double crochet. The equivalent stitch in US terms is single crochet - if you are used to US patterns you need to work single crochet everywhere this pattern says “dc”. If you work US dc (equivalent to UK Treble) the finished item will be elongated and the stuffing will show through.
This pattern also uses UK tr - treble crochet. The equivalent stitch in US terms is US dc - double crochet.
- If you are used to working in US Crochet Terms you can find a conversion chart HERE.
- If you are unfamiliar with any of the terms used in this pattern, find a chart of the UK Crochet terms used HERE.
Increasing and decreasing
You may use either standard increases and decreases in this pattern or, for a much neater finish, invisible ones. FLO = Front loop only.
Decrease - "dc2tog" in pattern.
Standard Decrease: Insert hook in next st, yrh, pull through stitch (2 loops on hook), insert hook in next st, yrh, pull up a loop (3 loops on hook), yrh, pull through all 3 loops on hook.
Invisible decrease: Insert hook in FLO of the two stitches to be decreased, yrh, pull through both front loops, yrh, pull through two loops on hook.
Increase - "2 dc in next st" in pattern.
Standard Increase: Work 2 dc in next st.
Invisible Increase: Work 1 dc in FLO of next st and 1 dc in both loops of same st.
Body
Worked from the top down. Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With MC, working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st} 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: Dc around.
Rnd 6: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 7: Dc around.
Rnd 8: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnd 9: Dc around.
Rnd 10: [5 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 42 sts
Rnd 11: [6 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 48 sts
Rnd 12: Dc around.
Rnd 13: [7 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 54 sts
Rnd 14: [8 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 60 sts
Change to CC1.
Rnd 15: Dc around in BLO.
Rnd 16: Dc around.
Rnd 17: [8 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 54 sts
Rnd 18: [7 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 48 sts
Rnd 19: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 8 times. 40 sts
Rnd 20: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 8 times. 32 sts
Rnd 21: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 8 times. 24 sts
Rnd 22: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 23: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnd 24: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Fasten off. Weave yarn tail through FLO of last 6 sts and pull to close hole. Weave in end.
Worked from the top down. Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With MC, working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st} 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: Dc around.
Rnd 6: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 7: Dc around.
Rnd 8: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnd 9: Dc around.
Rnd 10: [5 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 42 sts
Rnd 11: [6 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 48 sts
Rnd 12: Dc around.
Rnd 13: [7 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 54 sts
Rnd 14: [8 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 60 sts
Change to CC1.
Rnd 15: Dc around in BLO.
Rnd 16: Dc around.
Rnd 17: [8 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 54 sts
Rnd 18: [7 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 48 sts
Rnd 19: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 8 times. 40 sts
Rnd 20: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 8 times. 32 sts
Rnd 21: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 8 times. 24 sts
Rnd 22: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 23: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnd 24: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Fasten off. Weave yarn tail through FLO of last 6 sts and pull to close hole. Weave in end.
Head
Worked from front to back. Stuff at the end.
Rnd 1: With CC1, working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnds 6-10: Dc around.
Rnd 11: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 12: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail for sewing the Head to the Body once you've made all the parts.
Worked from front to back. Stuff at the end.
Rnd 1: With CC1, working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnds 6-10: Dc around.
Rnd 11: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 12: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail for sewing the Head to the Body once you've made all the parts.
Legs - make 8
Rnds 1- 5 are worked amigurumi style in a continuous spiral. Rnds 6 - 26 are worked using joined rounds. Join each round with a sl st in BLO of beg dc, then work first st of next round into both loops of same dc as join. From the second joined round onwards, make sure you miss the sl st from the prev round, do not work into this rather than the beg dc by mistake. The sl st joins don't count in the st count.
Worked from Foot back to Body. Stuff as you go.
Make four using CC2, CC4 and CC3 and four using CC2, CC4 and CC1.
Rnd 1: With CC2 (for all 8 Legs), working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnds 4-5: Dc around.
Rnd 6: Dc around, join in BLO.
Rnd 7: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. Join. 12 sts
Rnd 8: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. Join. 9 sts
Change to CC3 or CC1.
Rnds 9-11: Dc around. Join.
Change to CC4 (for all 8 Legs).
Rnds 12-13: Dc around. Join.
Change to CC3 or CC1.
Rnds 14-16: Dc around. Join.
Change to CC4.
Rnd 17-18: Dc around. Join.
Don't stuff beyond this point until you've completed the Leg and followed the instructions to create the bending knee.
Change to CC3 or CC1.
Rnds 19-21: Dc around. Join.
Change to CC4.
Rnds 22-23: Dc around. Join.
Change to CC3 or CC1.
Rnds 24-25: Dc around. Join.
Rnd 26: Dc around. Join with sl st in both loops of beg dc.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Legs to the Body once you've finished making all the parts. To create bendable knee, flatten the top half of the Leg and using a length of CC4 and a tapestry needle, sew across and through both layers of the Leg at Rnds 17-18, closing the bottom half of the Leg off from the top half. Fasten off and weave in ends of length of CC4. Stuff the top half of each Leg.
Rnds 1- 5 are worked amigurumi style in a continuous spiral. Rnds 6 - 26 are worked using joined rounds. Join each round with a sl st in BLO of beg dc, then work first st of next round into both loops of same dc as join. From the second joined round onwards, make sure you miss the sl st from the prev round, do not work into this rather than the beg dc by mistake. The sl st joins don't count in the st count.
Worked from Foot back to Body. Stuff as you go.
Make four using CC2, CC4 and CC3 and four using CC2, CC4 and CC1.
Rnd 1: With CC2 (for all 8 Legs), working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnds 4-5: Dc around.
Rnd 6: Dc around, join in BLO.
Rnd 7: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. Join. 12 sts
Rnd 8: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. Join. 9 sts
Change to CC3 or CC1.
Rnds 9-11: Dc around. Join.
Change to CC4 (for all 8 Legs).
Rnds 12-13: Dc around. Join.
Change to CC3 or CC1.
Rnds 14-16: Dc around. Join.
Change to CC4.
Rnd 17-18: Dc around. Join.
Don't stuff beyond this point until you've completed the Leg and followed the instructions to create the bending knee.
Change to CC3 or CC1.
Rnds 19-21: Dc around. Join.
Change to CC4.
Rnds 22-23: Dc around. Join.
Change to CC3 or CC1.
Rnds 24-25: Dc around. Join.
Rnd 26: Dc around. Join with sl st in both loops of beg dc.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Legs to the Body once you've finished making all the parts. To create bendable knee, flatten the top half of the Leg and using a length of CC4 and a tapestry needle, sew across and through both layers of the Leg at Rnds 17-18, closing the bottom half of the Leg off from the top half. Fasten off and weave in ends of length of CC4. Stuff the top half of each Leg.
Spots - make 9
Make three each in CC2, CC3 & CC4.
Rnd 1: With chosen colour, working into a magic ring, 6 dc. Join withal st in beg dc. 6 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail for sewing the Spots to the Body once you've made all the parts.
Make three each in CC2, CC3 & CC4.
Rnd 1: With chosen colour, working into a magic ring, 6 dc. Join withal st in beg dc. 6 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail for sewing the Spots to the Body once you've made all the parts.
Hat
Made from top down. Stuff at the end.
Rnd 1: With CC4, working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: Dc around in BLO.
Rnd 5: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnd 6: Dc around.
Rnd 7: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnd 8: Dc around.
Rnd 9: 2 dc in BLO in each st around. 18 sts
Rnd 10: Dc around.
Rnd 11: Dc around. Join with sl st in beg dc.
Fasten off. Weave in ends.
Made from top down. Stuff at the end.
Rnd 1: With CC4, working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: Dc around in BLO.
Rnd 5: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnd 6: Dc around.
Rnd 7: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnd 8: Dc around.
Rnd 9: 2 dc in BLO in each st around. 18 sts
Rnd 10: Dc around.
Rnd 11: Dc around. Join with sl st in beg dc.
Fasten off. Weave in ends.
Hat Band
With CC2, chain 14.
Row 1: Starting in 2nd ch from hook, 13 dc. Turn. 13 sts
Row 2: 1 ch, dc across.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail for sewing the Hat Band to the Hat once you've made all the parts.
With CC2, chain 14.
Row 1: Starting in 2nd ch from hook, 13 dc. Turn. 13 sts
Row 2: 1 ch, dc across.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail for sewing the Hat Band to the Hat once you've made all the parts.
Eyes - make 2
Rnd 1: With CC5, working into a magic ring, 6 dc. Join with a sl st in beg dc. 6 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail for sewing the Eyes to the Head once you've made all the parts.
Rnd 1: With CC5, working into a magic ring, 6 dc. Join with a sl st in beg dc. 6 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail for sewing the Eyes to the Head once you've made all the parts.
Bow Tie
Made in two parts - the "Wings" and the Central Band.
Wings
With CC2, chain 17.
Row 1: Starting in 2nd ch from hook, 2dc, 4 tr, 4 dc, 4 tr, 2 dc. 16 sts
Fasten off. Fold the short ends into the middle creating the two folded wings of the Bow Tie and stitch through the layers to hold the Wings in this folded shape.
Central Band
With CC2, chain 7.
Row 1: Starting in 2nd ch from hook, 6 dc. 6 sts
Fasten off. Use the yarn tail to sew the Central Band round the middle of the folded Bow Tie Wings.
Made in two parts - the "Wings" and the Central Band.
Wings
With CC2, chain 17.
Row 1: Starting in 2nd ch from hook, 2dc, 4 tr, 4 dc, 4 tr, 2 dc. 16 sts
Fasten off. Fold the short ends into the middle creating the two folded wings of the Bow Tie and stitch through the layers to hold the Wings in this folded shape.
Central Band
With CC2, chain 7.
Row 1: Starting in 2nd ch from hook, 6 dc. 6 sts
Fasten off. Use the yarn tail to sew the Central Band round the middle of the folded Bow Tie Wings.
Making Up
- Using the photographs as a guide, pin the pieces together before sewing, checking from all angles to make sure you’re happy with the positioning, then use the long yarn tails or a length of yarn with a yarn needle to stitch the pieces together.
- There's a Photo Tutorial about sewing Amigurumi parts together seamlessly HERE.
- Before you start positioning the pieces, you may find it helpful to insert a line of pins running down the centre line of the back of the Head, Body & Tail, this will help you to position the Legs and Eyes evenly in relation to the central line. Remove any pins that are in the way of the pieces you are attaching as you go.
- There's a Photo Tutorial about using Pin Lines to help position amigurumi parts on the website - you can find it HERE.
- Sew the stuffed Head to the Body with its lower edge sitting on Rnd 15.
- Sew the Eyes to the front of the Head, spaced approx 3 stitches apart.
- Sew the Hat Band round the Hat and sew the stuffed Hat to the Head, sitting off-set to the Spider's right at an angle.
- Sew the Bow Tie to the Body sitting just below the bottom edge of the Head.
- Starting approx 2 sts from the sides of the Head, sew the Legs to the Body, attaching them in line with Rnds 13-14, spacing each Leg approx 1 st apart and alternating the colours.
- Sew the Spots to the Spider's back.
Embroidered Details
Use a length of MC with a yarn needle to embroider the Spider's Nose, oversewing in the same spot several times to create its bump.
Use a length of CC5 to embroider the Spider's mouth.
Use a length of CC6 to sew a single stitch highlight on each Eye.
All done!
Use a length of MC with a yarn needle to embroider the Spider's Nose, oversewing in the same spot several times to create its bump.
Use a length of CC5 to embroider the Spider's mouth.
Use a length of CC6 to sew a single stitch highlight on each Eye.
All done!
Terms of Use
I am happy for you to donate, gift or sell any of the my crochet chums you make if you are an individual crafter - please credit mycrochetchums.com as the pattern designer. The patterns can not be used for any type of mass production or manufacturing.
If you do wish to sell your my crochet chums, it is your responsibility to ensure that the finished item complies with the relevant toy safety legislation in your country.
Please be sure to use toy grade stuffing and do not add buttons, bells, ribbons etc that could be a danger to small children.
You may print your PDF for personal use only (not for redistribution).
The patterns, files and all images are copyright protected and are not for commercial use. No part of the patterns may be sold, reproduced, transmitted, broadcast, translated, used for derivative works or published in any form.
About mycrochetchums
I started mycrochetchums at the end of 2020 to give me something to focus on during lockdown and to make creative use of a box of Amigurumi Yarn that was an impulse purchase I was feeling guilty about!
I’m loving creating these cute characters and sharpening my tech skills in the process as I wrangle with managing a website and social media.
Check out the mycrochetchums Facebook page - drop me a message there if you have any feedback about the pattern or would like to share a picture of the end result.
You can also find me on Instagram @mycrochetchums.
If you have any questions about any of my patterns (or any other ami you may be working on) please email me at: [email protected] - I’ll do my best to help!
Happy Crocheting!
Pia x
©2023PIA SIMPSON/ MYCROCHETCHUMS
I am happy for you to donate, gift or sell any of the my crochet chums you make if you are an individual crafter - please credit mycrochetchums.com as the pattern designer. The patterns can not be used for any type of mass production or manufacturing.
If you do wish to sell your my crochet chums, it is your responsibility to ensure that the finished item complies with the relevant toy safety legislation in your country.
Please be sure to use toy grade stuffing and do not add buttons, bells, ribbons etc that could be a danger to small children.
You may print your PDF for personal use only (not for redistribution).
The patterns, files and all images are copyright protected and are not for commercial use. No part of the patterns may be sold, reproduced, transmitted, broadcast, translated, used for derivative works or published in any form.
About mycrochetchums
I started mycrochetchums at the end of 2020 to give me something to focus on during lockdown and to make creative use of a box of Amigurumi Yarn that was an impulse purchase I was feeling guilty about!
I’m loving creating these cute characters and sharpening my tech skills in the process as I wrangle with managing a website and social media.
Check out the mycrochetchums Facebook page - drop me a message there if you have any feedback about the pattern or would like to share a picture of the end result.
You can also find me on Instagram @mycrochetchums.
If you have any questions about any of my patterns (or any other ami you may be working on) please email me at: [email protected] - I’ll do my best to help!
Happy Crocheting!
Pia x
©2023PIA SIMPSON/ MYCROCHETCHUMS