Free Amigurumi Crochet Christmas Cosy Reindeer Pattern
Scroll down further for pattern in full and more photos.
Let's get started... this one's really quick to make with Uk Aran/US Worsted yarn!
Yarn
Scheepjes Chunky Monkey Aran 100% Acrylic 116 m per 100g
MC: 70g approx of Mellow (1420) for Body, Head, Arms, Legs, Ears and Tail.
CC1: 60g approx of Cardinal (1246) for Body, Arms, Jumper Trims, Cuffs, Nose, Hat Brim and Bobble.
CC2: 15g approx of Jasmine (1218) for Antlers and Eye Highlights.
CC3: 5g approx of Chocolate (1004) for Eyes and Mouth.
CC4: 10g approx of Emerald (2014) for Hat and Star.
CC5: 15g approx of Ochre (1709) for Hooves.
US Worsted yarn is a similar weight to UK Aran.
You can scale this pattern up or down by altering the yarn and hook. Use a heavier weight yarn and larger hook for a bigger Reindeer and a lighter weight yarn and smaller hook for a little one.
To read more about scaling an Amigurumi pattern up or down, check out my guide HERE.
Scheepjes Chunky Monkey Aran 100% Acrylic 116 m per 100g
MC: 70g approx of Mellow (1420) for Body, Head, Arms, Legs, Ears and Tail.
CC1: 60g approx of Cardinal (1246) for Body, Arms, Jumper Trims, Cuffs, Nose, Hat Brim and Bobble.
CC2: 15g approx of Jasmine (1218) for Antlers and Eye Highlights.
CC3: 5g approx of Chocolate (1004) for Eyes and Mouth.
CC4: 10g approx of Emerald (2014) for Hat and Star.
CC5: 15g approx of Ochre (1709) for Hooves.
US Worsted yarn is a similar weight to UK Aran.
You can scale this pattern up or down by altering the yarn and hook. Use a heavier weight yarn and larger hook for a bigger Reindeer and a lighter weight yarn and smaller hook for a little one.
To read more about scaling an Amigurumi pattern up or down, check out my guide HERE.
Hook
4mm - for the yarn specified above.
4mm - for the yarn specified above.
Other Supplies
Yarn needle, toy stuffing, stitch marker/waste yarn, pins and scissors.
Yarn needle, toy stuffing, stitch marker/waste yarn, pins and scissors.
Tension
15 st x 16 rows = 10cm measured over UK dc using 4mm hook with Scheepjes Chunky Monkey Aran Acrylic.
Tension is not critical for this project but stitches should be tight enough to avoid stuffing showing through.
15 st x 16 rows = 10cm measured over UK dc using 4mm hook with Scheepjes Chunky Monkey Aran Acrylic.
Tension is not critical for this project but stitches should be tight enough to avoid stuffing showing through.
Size
32cm/12.5in approx from top to toe.
32cm/12.5in approx from top to toe.
Crochet Reindeer - front right side
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Crochet Reindeer - front left side
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Pattern Notes
The Cosy Reindeer is made amigurumi style in a continuous spiral without joins.
Colour changes take place on the last yrh of the last stitch of the previous round.
Use a stitch marker or waste yarn to keep track of the first stitch of each round. You can find a Photo Tutorial about using waste yarn as a stitch marker HERE.
If you don't want to make a Magic Ring you can start each piece by making a chain of 2 and then work the first round into the second chain from the hook.
If you'd like to start with a Magic Ring but don’t know how, you can find a Photo Tutorial HERE.
The Cosy Reindeer is made of multiple separate pieces sewn together. Unless otherwise stated, finish each piece by pulling the yarn through the last loop and leave a long tail for sewing. Any loose tails at the end can be easily woven in.
The Cosy Reindeer is made amigurumi style in a continuous spiral without joins.
Colour changes take place on the last yrh of the last stitch of the previous round.
Use a stitch marker or waste yarn to keep track of the first stitch of each round. You can find a Photo Tutorial about using waste yarn as a stitch marker HERE.
If you don't want to make a Magic Ring you can start each piece by making a chain of 2 and then work the first round into the second chain from the hook.
If you'd like to start with a Magic Ring but don’t know how, you can find a Photo Tutorial HERE.
The Cosy Reindeer is made of multiple separate pieces sewn together. Unless otherwise stated, finish each piece by pulling the yarn through the last loop and leave a long tail for sewing. Any loose tails at the end can be easily woven in.
UK Crochet Terms - Abbreviations
This pattern is written using UK Crochet Terms - they are NOT the same as US ones - please familiarise yourself with the UK terms to avoid your character’s shape distorting!
The “dc” abbreviation used in this pattern refers to UK double crochet. The equivalent stitch in US terms is single crochet - if you are used to US patterns you need to work single crochet everywhere this pattern says “dc”. If you work US dc (equivalent to UK Treble) the finished item will be elongated and the stuffing will show through.
This pattern also uses UK htr - half treble. The equivalent stitch in US terms is US hdc - half double crochet.
This pattern is written using UK Crochet Terms - they are NOT the same as US ones - please familiarise yourself with the UK terms to avoid your character’s shape distorting!
The “dc” abbreviation used in this pattern refers to UK double crochet. The equivalent stitch in US terms is single crochet - if you are used to US patterns you need to work single crochet everywhere this pattern says “dc”. If you work US dc (equivalent to UK Treble) the finished item will be elongated and the stuffing will show through.
This pattern also uses UK htr - half treble. The equivalent stitch in US terms is US hdc - half double crochet.
Increasing and decreasing
You may use either standard increases and decreases in this pattern or, for a much neater finish, invisible ones. FLO = Front loop only.
Decrease - "dc2tog" in pattern.
Standard Decrease: Insert hook in next st, yrh, pull through stitch (2 loops on hook), insert hook in next st, yrh, pull up a loop (3 loops on hook), yrh, pull through all 3 loops on hook.
Invisible decrease: Insert hook in FLO of the two stitches to be decreased, yrh, pull through both front loops, yrh, pull through two loops on hook.
Increase - "2 dc in next st" in pattern.
Standard Increase: Work 2 dc in next st.
Invisible Increase: Work 1 dc in FLO of next st and 1 dc in both loops of same st.
You may use either standard increases and decreases in this pattern or, for a much neater finish, invisible ones. FLO = Front loop only.
Decrease - "dc2tog" in pattern.
Standard Decrease: Insert hook in next st, yrh, pull through stitch (2 loops on hook), insert hook in next st, yrh, pull up a loop (3 loops on hook), yrh, pull through all 3 loops on hook.
Invisible decrease: Insert hook in FLO of the two stitches to be decreased, yrh, pull through both front loops, yrh, pull through two loops on hook.
Increase - "2 dc in next st" in pattern.
Standard Increase: Work 2 dc in next st.
Invisible Increase: Work 1 dc in FLO of next st and 1 dc in both loops of same st.
Body
Worked from the bottom up. Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With MC, working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 6: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnd 7: [5 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 42 sts
Rnds 8-9: Dc around.
Change to CC1.
Rnds 10-13: Dc around.
Rnd 14: [5 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnds 15-17: Dc around.
Rnd 18: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnds 19-21: Dc around.
Rnd 22: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 23-25: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Body to the Head once you've made all the parts.
Worked from the bottom up. Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With MC, working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 6: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnd 7: [5 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 42 sts
Rnds 8-9: Dc around.
Change to CC1.
Rnds 10-13: Dc around.
Rnd 14: [5 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnds 15-17: Dc around.
Rnd 18: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnds 19-21: Dc around.
Rnd 22: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 23-25: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Body to the Head once you've made all the parts.
Head
Made from front of Head back. Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With MC, working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnds 6-7: Dc around.
Rnd 8: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnds 9-10: Dc around.
Rnd 11: [3dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 12: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnd 13: [5 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 42 sts
Rnds 14-16: Dc around.
Rnd 17: [5 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnd 18: Dc around.
Rnd 19: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 20: Dc around.
Rnd 21: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 22: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 23: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnd 24: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Fasten off. Weave yarn tail through FLO of rem 6 sts and pull to close hole. Weave in end.
Made from front of Head back. Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With MC, working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnds 6-7: Dc around.
Rnd 8: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnds 9-10: Dc around.
Rnd 11: [3dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 12: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnd 13: [5 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 42 sts
Rnds 14-16: Dc around.
Rnd 17: [5 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnd 18: Dc around.
Rnd 19: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 20: Dc around.
Rnd 21: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 22: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 23: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnd 24: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Fasten off. Weave yarn tail through FLO of rem 6 sts and pull to close hole. Weave in end.
Crochet Reindeer - ear detail
Ears - make 2
Made from the top down. Don't stuff.
Rnd 1: With MC, working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: Dc around.
Rnd 3: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 4: Dc around.
Rnd 5: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnds 6-7: Dc around.
Rnd 8: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnd 9: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Ears to the Head once you've made all the parts.
Made from the top down. Don't stuff.
Rnd 1: With MC, working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: Dc around.
Rnd 3: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 4: Dc around.
Rnd 5: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnds 6-7: Dc around.
Rnd 8: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnd 9: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Ears to the Head once you've made all the parts.
Legs - make 2
Made from the bottom up. Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With CC5, working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [2 dc in next st, 2 dc. 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: Dc around in BLO.
Rnd 5: Dc around.
Change to MC.
Rnd 6: Dc around.
Rnd 7: [1 dc2tog, 2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 12 sts
Rnds 8-14: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Legs to the Body once you've made all the parts.
Made from the bottom up. Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With CC5, working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [2 dc in next st, 2 dc. 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: Dc around in BLO.
Rnd 5: Dc around.
Change to MC.
Rnd 6: Dc around.
Rnd 7: [1 dc2tog, 2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 12 sts
Rnds 8-14: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Legs to the Body once you've made all the parts.
Arms - make 2
Made from bottom up. Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With CC5, working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 15 sts
Rnd 4: Dc around in BLO.
Rnd 5: Dc around.
Change to MC.
Rnd 6: Dc around.
Rnd 7: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 12 sts
Change to CC1.
Rnd 8: Dc around.
Rnd 9: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnds 10-17: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Arms to the Body once you've made all the parts.
Made from bottom up. Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With CC5, working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 15 sts
Rnd 4: Dc around in BLO.
Rnd 5: Dc around.
Change to MC.
Rnd 6: Dc around.
Rnd 7: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 12 sts
Change to CC1.
Rnd 8: Dc around.
Rnd 9: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnds 10-17: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Arms to the Body once you've made all the parts.
Crochet reindeer - antler detail
Antlers - make 2
Each Antler is made from a Main Branch and a Side Branch. Worked from the top down. Stuff as you go.
Main Branch
Rnd 1: With CC2, working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnds 2-10: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Antler Main Branch to the Head once you've made all the parts.
Side Branch
Rnd 1: With CC2, working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnds 2-4: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Antler Side Branch to the Main Branch once you've made all the parts.
Each Antler is made from a Main Branch and a Side Branch. Worked from the top down. Stuff as you go.
Main Branch
Rnd 1: With CC2, working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnds 2-10: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Antler Main Branch to the Head once you've made all the parts.
Side Branch
Rnd 1: With CC2, working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnds 2-4: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Antler Side Branch to the Main Branch once you've made all the parts.
Crochet reindeer- tail detail
Tail
Made from the top down. Don't stuff.
Rnd 1: With MC, working into a magic ring, 4 dc. 4 sts
Rnd 2: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] twice. 6 sts
Rnd 3: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] twice. 8 sts
Rnd 4: Dc around.
Rnd 5: [2 dc. 1 dc2tog] twice. 6 sts
Rnd 6: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] twice. 4 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Tail to the Body once you've made all the parts.
Made from the top down. Don't stuff.
Rnd 1: With MC, working into a magic ring, 4 dc. 4 sts
Rnd 2: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] twice. 6 sts
Rnd 3: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] twice. 8 sts
Rnd 4: Dc around.
Rnd 5: [2 dc. 1 dc2tog] twice. 6 sts
Rnd 6: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] twice. 4 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Tail to the Body once you've made all the parts.
Crochet Reindeer - head detail
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Crochet Reindeer - Hat Detail
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Hat
Made from top down. Stuff at the end. Hat Bobble made separately.
Rnd 1: With CC4, working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: Dc around.
Rnd 3: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 4: Dc around.
Rnd 5: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 6: Dc around.
Rnd 7: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 8: Dc around.
Change to CC1.
Rnd 9: Dc around.
Rnd 10: Dc around in FLO.
Rnd 11: Dc around, sl st in beg dc.
Fasten off. Fold Hat brim out and up. Weave in end.
Made from top down. Stuff at the end. Hat Bobble made separately.
Rnd 1: With CC4, working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: Dc around.
Rnd 3: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 4: Dc around.
Rnd 5: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 6: Dc around.
Rnd 7: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 8: Dc around.
Change to CC1.
Rnd 9: Dc around.
Rnd 10: Dc around in FLO.
Rnd 11: Dc around, sl st in beg dc.
Fasten off. Fold Hat brim out and up. Weave in end.
Hat Bobble
Made from the top down. Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With CC1, working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnd 3: Dc around.
Rnd 4: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 6 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Hat Bobble to the Hat once you've made all the parts.
Eyes - make 2
Rnd 1: With CC3, working into a magic ring, 4 dc, sl st in beg dc to join. 4 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Eyes to the Head once you've made all the parts.
Made from the top down. Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With CC1, working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnd 3: Dc around.
Rnd 4: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 6 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Hat Bobble to the Hat once you've made all the parts.
Eyes - make 2
Rnd 1: With CC3, working into a magic ring, 4 dc, sl st in beg dc to join. 4 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Eyes to the Head once you've made all the parts.
Crochet Reindeer - head right side
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Crochet reindeer - head front left
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Nose
Made from the top down. Stuff at the end. This piece begins with an oval start rather than a magic circle, if you are unfamiliar with this technique, there's a photo tutorial showing the principle of it HERE.
With CC1, chain 4.
Rnd 1: Starting in 2nd ch from hook, 3 dc, 2 ch, rotating as you go, in the other side of the chain work 3 dc, 2 ch. 6 sts
Rnd 2: [3 dc, 3 dc in 2 ch-sp] twice. 12 sts
Rnd 3: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Nose to the Head once you've made all the parts.
Made from the top down. Stuff at the end. This piece begins with an oval start rather than a magic circle, if you are unfamiliar with this technique, there's a photo tutorial showing the principle of it HERE.
With CC1, chain 4.
Rnd 1: Starting in 2nd ch from hook, 3 dc, 2 ch, rotating as you go, in the other side of the chain work 3 dc, 2 ch. 6 sts
Rnd 2: [3 dc, 3 dc in 2 ch-sp] twice. 12 sts
Rnd 3: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Nose to the Head once you've made all the parts.
Jumper Collar
With CC1, chain 28.
Row 1: Starting in the 2nd ch from the hook, 27 dc. Turn. 27 sts
Row 2: 1 ch, dc across.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Collar to the Body once you've made all the parts.
With CC1, chain 28.
Row 1: Starting in the 2nd ch from the hook, 27 dc. Turn. 27 sts
Row 2: 1 ch, dc across.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Collar to the Body once you've made all the parts.
Bottom Jumper Trim
With CC1, chain 45.
Row 1: Starting in the 2nd ch from the hook, 44 dc. Turn. 44 sts
Row 2: 1 ch, dc across.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Bottom Jumper Trim to the Body once you've made all the parts.
With CC1, chain 45.
Row 1: Starting in the 2nd ch from the hook, 44 dc. Turn. 44 sts
Row 2: 1 ch, dc across.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Bottom Jumper Trim to the Body once you've made all the parts.
Crochet Reindeer - arm detail
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Crochet Reindeer - star detail
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Star
Rnd 1: With CC4, working into a magic ring, 5 dc. 5 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 10 sts
Rnd 3: [1 sl st, 4 ch, starting in 2nd ch from hook, 1 sl st, 1 dc, 1 htr, miss next st] 5 times, sl st in beg st to join.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Star to the Body once you've made all the parts.
Rnd 1: With CC4, working into a magic ring, 5 dc. 5 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 10 sts
Rnd 3: [1 sl st, 4 ch, starting in 2nd ch from hook, 1 sl st, 1 dc, 1 htr, miss next st] 5 times, sl st in beg st to join.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Star to the Body once you've made all the parts.
Crochet Reindeer - right side
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Crochet Reindeer - left side
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Making Up
- Using the photographs as a guide, pin the pieces together before sewing, checking from all angles to make sure you’re happy with the positioning, then use the long yarn tails or a length of yarn with a yarn needle to stitch the pieces together.
- There's a Photo Tutorial about sewing Amigurumi parts together seamlessly HERE.
- Before you start positioning the pieces, you may find it helpful to insert a line of pins running down the centre line of front of the Body, under its base and up the back, this will help you to position the rest of the Body parts evenly in relation to the central line. Remove any pins that are in the way of the pieces you are attaching as you go.
- There's a Photo Tutorial about using Pin Lines to help position amigurumi parts on the website - you can find it HERE.
- Sew the top of the Body to the underside of the Head. The front of the neck should sit roughly in line with Rnd 11 of the Head.
- Stuff the Nose and sew it to the front of the Head with its bottom edge sitting roughly in line with Rnd 2 of the Head.
- Sew the Eyes to the Head with their bottom edge sitting roughly in line with Rnd 9 of the Head. The Eyes should be spaced approx 5 sts apart.
- Sew the Hat Bobble to the top of the Hat. Stuff the Hat and sew it to the top of the Head, with its front edge sitting approx 3 rnds back from the top edge of the Eyes.
- Sew one Side Branch of the Antlers to their Main Branch and weave in end. Sew one Antler either side of the Hat with the Side Branches pointing outwards on each side.
- Pinch each Ear at the base to create a fold and secure in this shape with a few stitches. Sew the Ears either side of the Head, sitting just below the Antlers.
- Sew the Jumper Collar to the top of the Body and sew its short ends together at the back of the neck.
Crochet Reindeer - back of head
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Crochet Reindeer - base detail
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- Sew the top of the Arms to the sides of the Body, sitting roughly 2 rnds below the bottom edge of the Jumper Collar.
- Sew the Jumper Cuffs to the Arms where the colour changes from MC to CC1 and sew each Cuff's short ends together.
- Sew the Bottom Jumper Trim round the Body where the colour changes from MC to CC1 and sew its short ends together.
- Sew the Legs to the base of the Body spaced roughly 1 rnd apart.
- Sew the base of the Tail, with the Tail pointing upward, to the Body roughly in line with Rnd 6 of the Body centrally aligned.
- Sew the Star to the front of the Jumper.
Crochet reindeer - face detail
Embroidered Details
- With CC2 embroider a single stitch highlight on each Eye.
- With CC3 embroider the Reindeer's mouth.
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I am happy for you to donate, gift or sell any of the my crochet chums you make if you are an individual crafter - please credit mycrochetchums.com as the pattern designer. The patterns can not be used for any type of mass production or manufacturing.
If you do wish to sell your my crochet chums, it is your responsibility to ensure that the finished item complies with the relevant toy safety legislation in your country.
Please be sure to use toy grade stuffing and do not add buttons, bells, ribbons etc that could be a danger to small children.
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About mycrochetchums
I started mycrochetchums at the end of 2020 to give me something to focus on during lockdown and to make creative use of a box of Amigurumi Yarn that was an impulse purchase I was feeling guilty about! I enjoyed it so much that when the world got back to "normal" I carried on.
I’m loving creating these cute characters and sharpening my tech skills in the process as I wrangle with managing a website and social media.
Check out the mycrochetchums Facebook page - drop me a message there if you have any feedback about the pattern or would like to share a picture of the end result.
You can also find me on Instagram @mycrochetchums.
If you have any questions about any of my patterns (or any other ami you may be working on) please email me at: [email protected] - I’ll do my best to help!
Happy Crocheting!
Pia 🧶😍x
©2023PIA SIMPSON/ MYCROCHETCHUMS
I am happy for you to donate, gift or sell any of the my crochet chums you make if you are an individual crafter - please credit mycrochetchums.com as the pattern designer. The patterns can not be used for any type of mass production or manufacturing.
If you do wish to sell your my crochet chums, it is your responsibility to ensure that the finished item complies with the relevant toy safety legislation in your country.
Please be sure to use toy grade stuffing and do not add buttons, bells, ribbons etc that could be a danger to small children.
You may print your PDF for personal use only (not for redistribution).
The patterns, files and all images are copyright protected and are not for commercial use. No part of the patterns may be sold, reproduced, transmitted, broadcast, translated, used for derivative works or published in any form.
About mycrochetchums
I started mycrochetchums at the end of 2020 to give me something to focus on during lockdown and to make creative use of a box of Amigurumi Yarn that was an impulse purchase I was feeling guilty about! I enjoyed it so much that when the world got back to "normal" I carried on.
I’m loving creating these cute characters and sharpening my tech skills in the process as I wrangle with managing a website and social media.
Check out the mycrochetchums Facebook page - drop me a message there if you have any feedback about the pattern or would like to share a picture of the end result.
You can also find me on Instagram @mycrochetchums.
If you have any questions about any of my patterns (or any other ami you may be working on) please email me at: [email protected] - I’ll do my best to help!
Happy Crocheting!
Pia 🧶😍x
©2023PIA SIMPSON/ MYCROCHETCHUMS
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