Free Amigurumi Crochet Christmas Elves Pattern
Scroll down further for pattern in full and more photos.
Let's get started...
Yarn
Total amount of yarn to make both Elves.
Scheepjes Catona. 100% Cotton. 125m per 50g.
COL A: 20g approx of Emerald (515) for Boy Boots, Collar & Hat and Girl Legs & Collar.
COL B: 35g approx of Apple Granny (513) for Boy Shorts, Straps & Hat and Girl, Legs, Body & Arms.
COL C: 45g approx of Poppy Rose (390) for Boy Legs, Body & Arms and Girl Boots, Pinafore & Hat.
COL D: 20g approx of Snow White (106) for Boy Boot Trims, Cuffs, Hat, Hat Bobble, Buttons & Embroidered Details and Girl Boot Trims, Cuffs, Hat, Hat Bobble, Buttons & Embroidered Details.
COL E: 15g approx of Petal Peach (263) for Boy Head, Arms, Nose & Ears.
COL F: 15g approx of Camel (502) for Girl Head, Arms, Nose & Ears.
COL G: 15g approx of Black Coffee (162) for Girl Hair.
COL H: 10g approx of Ginger Gold (383) for Boy Hair.
COL J: Small amount of Jet Black (110) for Eyes & Embroidered Details.
You can scale this pattern up or down by altering the yarn and hook. Use a heavier weight yarn and larger hook for bigger Elves and a lighter weight yarn and smaller hook for little ones.
To read more about scaling an Amigurumi pattern up or down, check out my guide HERE.
Total amount of yarn to make both Elves.
Scheepjes Catona. 100% Cotton. 125m per 50g.
COL A: 20g approx of Emerald (515) for Boy Boots, Collar & Hat and Girl Legs & Collar.
COL B: 35g approx of Apple Granny (513) for Boy Shorts, Straps & Hat and Girl, Legs, Body & Arms.
COL C: 45g approx of Poppy Rose (390) for Boy Legs, Body & Arms and Girl Boots, Pinafore & Hat.
COL D: 20g approx of Snow White (106) for Boy Boot Trims, Cuffs, Hat, Hat Bobble, Buttons & Embroidered Details and Girl Boot Trims, Cuffs, Hat, Hat Bobble, Buttons & Embroidered Details.
COL E: 15g approx of Petal Peach (263) for Boy Head, Arms, Nose & Ears.
COL F: 15g approx of Camel (502) for Girl Head, Arms, Nose & Ears.
COL G: 15g approx of Black Coffee (162) for Girl Hair.
COL H: 10g approx of Ginger Gold (383) for Boy Hair.
COL J: Small amount of Jet Black (110) for Eyes & Embroidered Details.
You can scale this pattern up or down by altering the yarn and hook. Use a heavier weight yarn and larger hook for bigger Elves and a lighter weight yarn and smaller hook for little ones.
To read more about scaling an Amigurumi pattern up or down, check out my guide HERE.
Hook
2 mm - for the yarn specified above.
Other Supplies
Yarn needle, toy stuffing, stitch marker/waste yarn, pins and scissors.
Tension
27 st x 30 rows = 10cm measured over UK dc using 2mm hook with Scheepjes Catona 4 ply cotton.
Tension is not critical for this project but stitches should be tight enough to avoid stuffing showing through.
Size
30cm/12in approx from top to toe.
2 mm - for the yarn specified above.
Other Supplies
Yarn needle, toy stuffing, stitch marker/waste yarn, pins and scissors.
Tension
27 st x 30 rows = 10cm measured over UK dc using 2mm hook with Scheepjes Catona 4 ply cotton.
Tension is not critical for this project but stitches should be tight enough to avoid stuffing showing through.
Size
30cm/12in approx from top to toe.
Crochet Elves - front
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Crochet Elves - back
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Pattern Notes
Most parts of the Elves are made amigurumi style in a continuous spiral without joins.
Joined rounds are used on the Stripy Legs and Hat so that there are no jagged steps between the colours. Full instructions are given in the relevant parts of the pattern. You can also find a Photo Tutorial showing the principle of the Joined Rounds technique HERE.
The Shorts and the Pinafore are made using turned rows. The turning chains aren't included in the stitch count.
Colour changes take place on the last yrh of the last stitch of the previous round.
Use a stitch marker or waste yarn to keep track of the first stitch of each round. You can find a Photo Tutorial about using waste yarn as a stitch marker HERE.
If you don't want to make a Magic Ring you can start each piece by making a chain of 2 and then work the first round into the second chain from the hook.
If you'd like to start with a Magic Ring but don’t know how, you can find a Photo Tutorial HERE.
The Elves are made of multiple separate pieces sewn together. Unless otherwise stated, finish each piece by pulling the yarn through the last loop and leave a long tail for sewing. Any loose tails at the end can be easily woven in.
UK Crochet Terms - Abbreviations
The pattern below is written using UK Crochet Terms - they are NOT the same as US ones - please familiarise yourself with the UK terms to avoid your character’s shape distorting!
The “dc” abbreviation used in this pattern refers to UK double crochet. The equivalent stitch in US terms is single crochet - if you are used to US patterns you need to work single crochet everywhere this pattern says “dc”. If you work US dc (equivalent to UK Treble) the finished item will be elongated and the stuffing will show through.
This pattern also uses UK htr - half treble.and UK tr - treble crochet. The equivalent stitches in US terms are US hdc - half double and US dc - double crochet.
Most parts of the Elves are made amigurumi style in a continuous spiral without joins.
Joined rounds are used on the Stripy Legs and Hat so that there are no jagged steps between the colours. Full instructions are given in the relevant parts of the pattern. You can also find a Photo Tutorial showing the principle of the Joined Rounds technique HERE.
The Shorts and the Pinafore are made using turned rows. The turning chains aren't included in the stitch count.
Colour changes take place on the last yrh of the last stitch of the previous round.
Use a stitch marker or waste yarn to keep track of the first stitch of each round. You can find a Photo Tutorial about using waste yarn as a stitch marker HERE.
If you don't want to make a Magic Ring you can start each piece by making a chain of 2 and then work the first round into the second chain from the hook.
If you'd like to start with a Magic Ring but don’t know how, you can find a Photo Tutorial HERE.
The Elves are made of multiple separate pieces sewn together. Unless otherwise stated, finish each piece by pulling the yarn through the last loop and leave a long tail for sewing. Any loose tails at the end can be easily woven in.
UK Crochet Terms - Abbreviations
The pattern below is written using UK Crochet Terms - they are NOT the same as US ones - please familiarise yourself with the UK terms to avoid your character’s shape distorting!
The “dc” abbreviation used in this pattern refers to UK double crochet. The equivalent stitch in US terms is single crochet - if you are used to US patterns you need to work single crochet everywhere this pattern says “dc”. If you work US dc (equivalent to UK Treble) the finished item will be elongated and the stuffing will show through.
This pattern also uses UK htr - half treble.and UK tr - treble crochet. The equivalent stitches in US terms are US hdc - half double and US dc - double crochet.
Increasing and decreasing
You may use either standard increases and decreases in this pattern or, for a much neater finish, invisible ones. FLO = Front loop only.
Decrease - "dc2tog" in pattern.
Standard Decrease: Insert hook in next st, yrh, pull through stitch (2 loops on hook), insert hook in next st, yrh, pull up a loop (3 loops on hook), yrh, pull through all 3 loops on hook.
Invisible decrease: Insert hook in FLO of the two stitches to be decreased, yrh, pull through both front loops, yrh, pull through two loops on hook.
Increase - "2 dc in next st" in pattern.
Standard Increase: Work 2 dc in next st.
Invisible Increase: Work 1 dc in FLO of next st and 1 dc in both loops of same st.
You may use either standard increases and decreases in this pattern or, for a much neater finish, invisible ones. FLO = Front loop only.
Decrease - "dc2tog" in pattern.
Standard Decrease: Insert hook in next st, yrh, pull through stitch (2 loops on hook), insert hook in next st, yrh, pull up a loop (3 loops on hook), yrh, pull through all 3 loops on hook.
Invisible decrease: Insert hook in FLO of the two stitches to be decreased, yrh, pull through both front loops, yrh, pull through two loops on hook.
Increase - "2 dc in next st" in pattern.
Standard Increase: Work 2 dc in next st.
Invisible Increase: Work 1 dc in FLO of next st and 1 dc in both loops of same st.
Body - make 1 for each Elf
Worked from the bottom up. Stuff as you go.This piece begins with an oval start rather than a magic circle, if you are unfamiliar with this technique, there's a photo tutorial showing the principle of it HERE. The chains are not included in the stitch count.
Use COL B for Girl Elf and COL C for Boy Elf.
With chosen colour, chain 7.
Rnd 1: Starting in 2nd ch from hook, 6 dc, 2 ch, rotating as you go, in the other side of ch work 6 dc, 2 ch. 12 sts
Rnd 2: [6 dc, 3 dc in 2 ch-sp] twice. 18 sts
Rnd 3: *6 dc, [2 dc in next st] 3 times; rep from * once more. 24 sts
Rnd 4: *7 dc, [2 dc in next st, 1 dc] twice, 2 dc in next st; rep from * once more. 30 sts
Rnds 5-9: Dc around.
Rnd 10: 12 dc, 1 dc2tog, 13 dc, 1 dc2tog, 1 dc. 28 sts
Rnds 11-12: Dc around.
Rnd 13: [12 dc, 1 dc2tog] twice. 26 sts
Rnds 14-15: Dc around.
Rnd 16: [1 dc2tog, 11 dc] twice. 24 sts
Rnds 17-18: Dc around.
Rnd 19: 1 dc, 1 dc2tog, 10 dc, 1 dc2tog, 9 dc. 22 sts
Rnds 20-21: Dc around.
Rnd 22: 1 dc, 1 dc2tog, 9 dc, 1 dc2tog, 8 dc. 20 sts
Rnds 23-24: Dc around.
Rnd 25: 1 dc, 1 dc2tog, 8 dc, 1 dc2tog, 7 dc. 18 sts
Rnds 26-27: Dc around.
Rnd 28: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnd 29: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Fasten off. Weave yarn tail through FLO of last 6 sts and pull to close hole. Leave a long yarn tail for sewing the Body to the Head once you've made all the parts.
Worked from the bottom up. Stuff as you go.This piece begins with an oval start rather than a magic circle, if you are unfamiliar with this technique, there's a photo tutorial showing the principle of it HERE. The chains are not included in the stitch count.
Use COL B for Girl Elf and COL C for Boy Elf.
With chosen colour, chain 7.
Rnd 1: Starting in 2nd ch from hook, 6 dc, 2 ch, rotating as you go, in the other side of ch work 6 dc, 2 ch. 12 sts
Rnd 2: [6 dc, 3 dc in 2 ch-sp] twice. 18 sts
Rnd 3: *6 dc, [2 dc in next st] 3 times; rep from * once more. 24 sts
Rnd 4: *7 dc, [2 dc in next st, 1 dc] twice, 2 dc in next st; rep from * once more. 30 sts
Rnds 5-9: Dc around.
Rnd 10: 12 dc, 1 dc2tog, 13 dc, 1 dc2tog, 1 dc. 28 sts
Rnds 11-12: Dc around.
Rnd 13: [12 dc, 1 dc2tog] twice. 26 sts
Rnds 14-15: Dc around.
Rnd 16: [1 dc2tog, 11 dc] twice. 24 sts
Rnds 17-18: Dc around.
Rnd 19: 1 dc, 1 dc2tog, 10 dc, 1 dc2tog, 9 dc. 22 sts
Rnds 20-21: Dc around.
Rnd 22: 1 dc, 1 dc2tog, 9 dc, 1 dc2tog, 8 dc. 20 sts
Rnds 23-24: Dc around.
Rnd 25: 1 dc, 1 dc2tog, 8 dc, 1 dc2tog, 7 dc. 18 sts
Rnds 26-27: Dc around.
Rnd 28: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnd 29: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Fasten off. Weave yarn tail through FLO of last 6 sts and pull to close hole. Leave a long yarn tail for sewing the Body to the Head once you've made all the parts.
Head - make 1 for each Elf
Worked from the bottom up. Stuff as you go.
Use COL E for Boy Elf and COL F for Girl Elf.
Rnd 1: With chosen colour, working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 6: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnds 7-12: Dc around.
Rnd 13: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 14: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 15: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 16: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnd 17: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Fasten off. Weave yarn tail through FLO of last 6 sts and pull to close hole. Weave in end.
Worked from the bottom up. Stuff as you go.
Use COL E for Boy Elf and COL F for Girl Elf.
Rnd 1: With chosen colour, working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 6: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnds 7-12: Dc around.
Rnd 13: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 14: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 15: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 16: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnd 17: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Fasten off. Weave yarn tail through FLO of last 6 sts and pull to close hole. Weave in end.
Crochet Boy Elf - side view
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Crochet Girl Elf - side view
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Ears - make 2 for each Elf
Worked from the top down. Don't stuff.
Use COL E for Boy Elf and COL F for Girl Elf.
Rnd 1: With chosen colour, working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: Dc around.
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnd 4: Dc around.
Rnd 5: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 12 sts
Rnd 6: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Fasten off. Weave yarn tail through FLO of last 6 sts and pull to close hole. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Ears to the Head once you've made all the parts.
Worked from the top down. Don't stuff.
Use COL E for Boy Elf and COL F for Girl Elf.
Rnd 1: With chosen colour, working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: Dc around.
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnd 4: Dc around.
Rnd 5: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 12 sts
Rnd 6: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Fasten off. Weave yarn tail through FLO of last 6 sts and pull to close hole. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Ears to the Head once you've made all the parts.
Arms - make 2 for each Elf
Made from the bottom up. Stuff as you go. Cuffs at bottom of sleeve section are made separately.
Start with COL E and change to COL C for Boy Elf.
Start with COL F and change to COL B for Girl Elf.
Rnd 1: With chosen colour, working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] twice. 8 sts
Rnds 3-9: Dc around.
Change to second colour.
Rnds 10-20: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Arms to the Body once you've made all the parts.
Made from the bottom up. Stuff as you go. Cuffs at bottom of sleeve section are made separately.
Start with COL E and change to COL C for Boy Elf.
Start with COL F and change to COL B for Girl Elf.
Rnd 1: With chosen colour, working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] twice. 8 sts
Rnds 3-9: Dc around.
Change to second colour.
Rnds 10-20: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Arms to the Body once you've made all the parts.
Collar - make 1 for each Elf
Use the same colour for both Elves.
With COL A, chain 19.
Row 1: Starting in the 2nd ch from the hook, 18 dc. Turn. 18 sts
Row 2: To make first point of collar: 6 ch, starting in 2nd ch from hook, 1 sl st, 2 dc, 2 hdc, miss first and 2nd st of prev row, 1 sl st into next.
To make 2nd point of collar: *6 ch, starting in 2nd ch from hook, 1 sl st, 2 dc, 2 hdc, miss next 2 sts, 1 sl st into next; rep from * 4 more times to make the remaining points. Turn.
Row 3: 1 ch, 1 sl st into each st of prev row.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Collar around the neck once you've made all the parts.
Use the same colour for both Elves.
With COL A, chain 19.
Row 1: Starting in the 2nd ch from the hook, 18 dc. Turn. 18 sts
Row 2: To make first point of collar: 6 ch, starting in 2nd ch from hook, 1 sl st, 2 dc, 2 hdc, miss first and 2nd st of prev row, 1 sl st into next.
To make 2nd point of collar: *6 ch, starting in 2nd ch from hook, 1 sl st, 2 dc, 2 hdc, miss next 2 sts, 1 sl st into next; rep from * 4 more times to make the remaining points. Turn.
Row 3: 1 ch, 1 sl st into each st of prev row.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Collar around the neck once you've made all the parts.
Eyes - make 2 for each Elf
Rnd 1: With COL J, working into a magic ring, 4 dc, sl st into beg dc to join.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Eyes to the Head once you've made all the parts.
Rnd 1: With COL J, working into a magic ring, 4 dc, sl st into beg dc to join.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Eyes to the Head once you've made all the parts.
Buttons - make 2 for each Elf
Rnd 1: With COL D, working into a magic ring, 6 dc, sl st into beg dc to join.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Buttons to the clothes once you've made all the parts.
Rnd 1: With COL D, working into a magic ring, 6 dc, sl st into beg dc to join.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Buttons to the clothes once you've made all the parts.
Hat Bobble - make 1 for each Elf
Worked from the top down. Stuff as you go. Use the same colour for both.
Rnd 1: With COL D, working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnds 4-6: Dc around.
Rnd 7: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnd 8: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 9 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Hat Bobble to the Hat once you've made all the parts.
Worked from the top down. Stuff as you go. Use the same colour for both.
Rnd 1: With COL D, working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnds 4-6: Dc around.
Rnd 7: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnd 8: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 9 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Hat Bobble to the Hat once you've made all the parts.
Shirt Cuffs - make 2 for each Elf
With COL D, chain 15.
Row 1: Starting in 2nd ch from hook, dc across. 14 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Cuffs to the Arms once you've made all the parts.
With COL D, chain 15.
Row 1: Starting in 2nd ch from hook, dc across. 14 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Cuffs to the Arms once you've made all the parts.
Boot Trims - make 2 for each Elf
With COL D, chain 16.
Row 1: Starting in 2nd ch from hook, dc across. 15 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Boot Trims to the Legs once you've made all the parts.
With COL D, chain 16.
Row 1: Starting in 2nd ch from hook, dc across. 15 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Boot Trims to the Legs once you've made all the parts.
Parts just for the Boy Elf
Crochet Boy Elf - legs
Plain Legs - for Boy Elf - make 2
Worked from the bottom up. This piece begins with an oval start rather than a magic circle, if you are unfamiliar with this technique, there's a photo tutorial showing the principle of it HERE. The chains are not included in the stitch count. Follow the stuffing instructions in the pattern. Boot Top Trims are made separately.
With COL A, chain 7.
Rnd 1: Starting in 2nd ch from hook, 6 dc, 2 ch, rotating as you go, in the other side of ch work 6 dc, 2 ch. 12 sts
Rnd 2: [6 dc, 3 dc in 2 ch-sp] twice. 18 sts
Rnd 3: Dc around.
Rnd 4: 4 dc, [1 dc2tog, 1 dc] twice, 1 dc2tog, 6 dc. 15 sts
Rnd 5: 3 dc, [1 dc2tog, 1 dc] twice, 1 dc2tog, 4 dc. 12 sts
Rnd 6: 2 dc, 3 dc2tog, 4 dc. 9 sts
Rnds 7-12: Dc around.
Change to COL C.
Rnds 13-22: Dc around.
Stuff the bottom half of the Leg. Don't stuff beyond here until you've completed all the rnds of the Leg and followed the instructions below to create the bendable knee.
Rnds 23-32: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail for sewing the Legs to the Body once you've made all the parts.
To create the bendable knee, with the front of the Foot facing you, flatten the top half of the Leg and using a length of COL C and a tapestry needle, sew across and through both layers of the Leg at
Rnds 23-24 closing the bottom half of the Leg off from the top half. Fasten off and weave in ends of length of COL C. Stuff the top half of each Leg.
Worked from the bottom up. This piece begins with an oval start rather than a magic circle, if you are unfamiliar with this technique, there's a photo tutorial showing the principle of it HERE. The chains are not included in the stitch count. Follow the stuffing instructions in the pattern. Boot Top Trims are made separately.
With COL A, chain 7.
Rnd 1: Starting in 2nd ch from hook, 6 dc, 2 ch, rotating as you go, in the other side of ch work 6 dc, 2 ch. 12 sts
Rnd 2: [6 dc, 3 dc in 2 ch-sp] twice. 18 sts
Rnd 3: Dc around.
Rnd 4: 4 dc, [1 dc2tog, 1 dc] twice, 1 dc2tog, 6 dc. 15 sts
Rnd 5: 3 dc, [1 dc2tog, 1 dc] twice, 1 dc2tog, 4 dc. 12 sts
Rnd 6: 2 dc, 3 dc2tog, 4 dc. 9 sts
Rnds 7-12: Dc around.
Change to COL C.
Rnds 13-22: Dc around.
Stuff the bottom half of the Leg. Don't stuff beyond here until you've completed all the rnds of the Leg and followed the instructions below to create the bendable knee.
Rnds 23-32: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail for sewing the Legs to the Body once you've made all the parts.
To create the bendable knee, with the front of the Foot facing you, flatten the top half of the Leg and using a length of COL C and a tapestry needle, sew across and through both layers of the Leg at
Rnds 23-24 closing the bottom half of the Leg off from the top half. Fasten off and weave in ends of length of COL C. Stuff the top half of each Leg.
Crochet Boy Elf - head
Striped Hat - for Boy Elf
Worked from the top down. Stuff at the end. Made using joined rounds to give clean colour changes.
Join each round with a sl st in BLO of beg dc, then work first st of next round into both loops of same dc as join. From the second joined round onwards, make sure you miss the sl st from the prev round, do not work into this rather than the beg dc by mistake. The sl st joins aren't included in the st count.
There's a Photo Tutorial showing the principle of the Joined Rounds technique HERE.
Rnd 1: With COL B, working into a magic ring, 6 dc. Join in BLO. 6 sts
Rnd 2: Dc around. Join.
Change to COL A.
Rnd 3: 2 dc in each st around. Join. 12 sts
Rnd 4: Dc around. Join.
Change to COL B.
Rnd 5: Dc around. Join.
Rnd 6: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. Join. 18 sts
Change to COL A.
Rnds 7-8: Dc around. Join.
Change to COL B.
Rnd 9: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. Join. 24 sts
Rnd 10: Dc around. Join.
Change to COL A.
Rnd 11: Dc around. Join.
Rnd 12: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. Join. 30 sts
Change to COL B.
Rnds 13-14: Dc around. Join.
Change to COL A.
Rnd 15: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. Join. 36 sts
Rnd 16: Dc around. Join.
Change to COL B.
Rnd 17: Dc around. Join.
Rnd 18: [5 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. Join. 42 sts
Change to COL A.
Rnd 19: Dc around. Join.
Change to COL D.
Rnd 20: Dc around. Join.
Rnd 21: Dc around in FLO. Join.
Rnds 22-23: Dc around. Join.
Fasten off. Weave in end. Fold Hat brim out and up.
Worked from the top down. Stuff at the end. Made using joined rounds to give clean colour changes.
Join each round with a sl st in BLO of beg dc, then work first st of next round into both loops of same dc as join. From the second joined round onwards, make sure you miss the sl st from the prev round, do not work into this rather than the beg dc by mistake. The sl st joins aren't included in the st count.
There's a Photo Tutorial showing the principle of the Joined Rounds technique HERE.
Rnd 1: With COL B, working into a magic ring, 6 dc. Join in BLO. 6 sts
Rnd 2: Dc around. Join.
Change to COL A.
Rnd 3: 2 dc in each st around. Join. 12 sts
Rnd 4: Dc around. Join.
Change to COL B.
Rnd 5: Dc around. Join.
Rnd 6: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. Join. 18 sts
Change to COL A.
Rnds 7-8: Dc around. Join.
Change to COL B.
Rnd 9: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. Join. 24 sts
Rnd 10: Dc around. Join.
Change to COL A.
Rnd 11: Dc around. Join.
Rnd 12: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. Join. 30 sts
Change to COL B.
Rnds 13-14: Dc around. Join.
Change to COL A.
Rnd 15: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. Join. 36 sts
Rnd 16: Dc around. Join.
Change to COL B.
Rnd 17: Dc around. Join.
Rnd 18: [5 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. Join. 42 sts
Change to COL A.
Rnd 19: Dc around. Join.
Change to COL D.
Rnd 20: Dc around. Join.
Rnd 21: Dc around in FLO. Join.
Rnds 22-23: Dc around. Join.
Fasten off. Weave in end. Fold Hat brim out and up.
Hair Cap - for Boy Elf
Worked from the top down.
Rnd 1: With COL H, working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 6: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnds 7-11: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Wig Cap to the Head once you've made all the parts.
Worked from the top down.
Rnd 1: With COL H, working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 6: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnds 7-11: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Wig Cap to the Head once you've made all the parts.
Crochet Boy Elf - shorts
Shorts - for Boy Elf
Made using turned rows, as one piece, from the top down. The turning chains aren't included in the stitch count. The Straps are made separately.
With COL B, chain 33.
Row 1: Starting in 2nd ch from hook, dc across. Turn. 32 sts
Row 2: 1 ch, dc across. Turn.
Row 3: 1 ch, 7 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice, 14 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice, 7 dc. Turn. 36 sts
Rows 4-14: 1 ch, dc across. Turn. Don't fasten off, continue on to Rnd 15a.
To work the first leg section:
Row 15a: 1 ch, 18 dc, leave rest of row unworked. Turn. 18 sts
Rows 16a-20a: 1 ch, dc across. Turn. 18 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew up the inside leg, following the instructions below once you've made the second leg section.
To work the second leg section:
Attach the yarn in the next unused st of Row 14.
Row 15b: 1 st in each of the unused sts of Row 14. Turn. 18 sts
Rows 16b-20b: 1 ch, dc across. Turn. 18 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew up the inside leg, following the instructions below.
To finish the Shorts:
Made using turned rows, as one piece, from the top down. The turning chains aren't included in the stitch count. The Straps are made separately.
With COL B, chain 33.
Row 1: Starting in 2nd ch from hook, dc across. Turn. 32 sts
Row 2: 1 ch, dc across. Turn.
Row 3: 1 ch, 7 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice, 14 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice, 7 dc. Turn. 36 sts
Rows 4-14: 1 ch, dc across. Turn. Don't fasten off, continue on to Rnd 15a.
To work the first leg section:
Row 15a: 1 ch, 18 dc, leave rest of row unworked. Turn. 18 sts
Rows 16a-20a: 1 ch, dc across. Turn. 18 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew up the inside leg, following the instructions below once you've made the second leg section.
To work the second leg section:
Attach the yarn in the next unused st of Row 14.
Row 15b: 1 st in each of the unused sts of Row 14. Turn. 18 sts
Rows 16b-20b: 1 ch, dc across. Turn. 18 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew up the inside leg, following the instructions below.
To finish the Shorts:
- Lay the piece flat in front of you with the rows running horizontally and fold the outer edges into the centre.
- Use the first leg yarn tail to sew the ends of Rows 15a-20a together to create the first Shorts leg.
- Use the second leg yarn tail to sew the ends of Rows 15b-20b together to create the second Shorts leg.
- Use a length of COL B to sew the ends of Rnds 1-14 together, creating the body section of the shorts.
- Weave in all ends.
Crochet Boy Elf - straps for shorts
Straps for Shorts - for Boy Elf - make 2
With COL B, chain 31.
Row 1: Starting in 2nd ch from the hook, 1 dc in each ch. 30 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Straps to the Body once you've made all the parts.
That's all the parts for the Boy Elf - you can find the Making Up instructions for him after the rest of the Girl Elf pattern below.
With COL B, chain 31.
Row 1: Starting in 2nd ch from the hook, 1 dc in each ch. 30 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Straps to the Body once you've made all the parts.
That's all the parts for the Boy Elf - you can find the Making Up instructions for him after the rest of the Girl Elf pattern below.
Parts just for the Girl Elf
Crochet Girl Elf - striped legs
Striped Legs - for Girl Elf - make 2
Worked from the bottom up. Stuff as you go. This piece begins with an oval start rather than a magic circle, if you are unfamiliar with this technique, there's a photo tutorial showing the principle of it HERE. The chains are not included in the stitch count. Boot Top Trims are made separately. Follow the stuffing instructions in the pattern.
Rnds 1-9 are made amigurumi style in continuous rnds, Rnds 10-32 are made using Joined Rnds to give clean colour changes.
Join each round with a sl st in BLO of beg dc, then work first st of next round into both loops of same dc as join. From the second joined round onwards, make sure you miss the sl st from the prev round, do not work into this rather than the beg dc by mistake. The sl st joins aren't included in the st count.
There's a Photo Tutorial showing the principle of the Joined Rounds technique HERE.
With COL C, chain 7.
Rnd 1: Starting in 2nd ch from hook, 6 dc, 2 ch, rotating as you go, in the other side of ch work 6 dc, 2 ch. 12 sts
Rnd 2: [6 dc, 3 dc in 2 ch-sp] twice. 18 sts
Rnd 3: Dc around.
Rnd 4: 4 dc, [1 dc2tog, 1 dc] twice, 1 dc2tog, 6 dc. 15 sts
Rnd 5: 3 dc, [1 dc2tog, 1 dc] twice, 1 dc2tog, 4 dc. 12 sts
Rnd 6: 2 dc, 3 dc2tog, 4 dc. 9 sts
Rnds 7-9: Dc around.
Rnd 10: Dc around. Join in BLO.
Rnds 11-12: Dc around. Join.
Change to COL B.
Rnds 13-14: Dc around. Join.
Change to COL A.
Rnds 15-16: Dc around. Join.
Change to COL B.
Rnds 17-18: Dc around. Join.
Change to COL A.
Rnds 19-20: Dc around. Join.
Change to COL B.
Rnds 21-22: Dc around. Join.
Change to COL A.
Stuff the bottom half of the Leg. Don't stuff beyond here until you've completed all the rnds of the Leg and followed the instructions below to create the bendable knee.
Rnds 23-24: Dc around. Join.
Change to COL B.
Rnds 25-26: Dc around. Join.
Change to COL A.
Rnds 27-28: Dc around. Join.
Change to COL B.
Rnds 29-30: Dc around. Join.
Change to COL A.
Rnds 31-32: Dc around. Join.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Legs to the Body once you've made all the parts.
To create the bendable knee, with the front of the Foot facing you, flatten the top half of the Leg and using a length of COL A and a tapestry needle, sew across and through both layers of the Leg at Rnds 23-24 closing the bottom half of the Leg off from the top half. Fasten off and weave in ends of length of COL A. Stuff the top half of each Leg.
Worked from the bottom up. Stuff as you go. This piece begins with an oval start rather than a magic circle, if you are unfamiliar with this technique, there's a photo tutorial showing the principle of it HERE. The chains are not included in the stitch count. Boot Top Trims are made separately. Follow the stuffing instructions in the pattern.
Rnds 1-9 are made amigurumi style in continuous rnds, Rnds 10-32 are made using Joined Rnds to give clean colour changes.
Join each round with a sl st in BLO of beg dc, then work first st of next round into both loops of same dc as join. From the second joined round onwards, make sure you miss the sl st from the prev round, do not work into this rather than the beg dc by mistake. The sl st joins aren't included in the st count.
There's a Photo Tutorial showing the principle of the Joined Rounds technique HERE.
With COL C, chain 7.
Rnd 1: Starting in 2nd ch from hook, 6 dc, 2 ch, rotating as you go, in the other side of ch work 6 dc, 2 ch. 12 sts
Rnd 2: [6 dc, 3 dc in 2 ch-sp] twice. 18 sts
Rnd 3: Dc around.
Rnd 4: 4 dc, [1 dc2tog, 1 dc] twice, 1 dc2tog, 6 dc. 15 sts
Rnd 5: 3 dc, [1 dc2tog, 1 dc] twice, 1 dc2tog, 4 dc. 12 sts
Rnd 6: 2 dc, 3 dc2tog, 4 dc. 9 sts
Rnds 7-9: Dc around.
Rnd 10: Dc around. Join in BLO.
Rnds 11-12: Dc around. Join.
Change to COL B.
Rnds 13-14: Dc around. Join.
Change to COL A.
Rnds 15-16: Dc around. Join.
Change to COL B.
Rnds 17-18: Dc around. Join.
Change to COL A.
Rnds 19-20: Dc around. Join.
Change to COL B.
Rnds 21-22: Dc around. Join.
Change to COL A.
Stuff the bottom half of the Leg. Don't stuff beyond here until you've completed all the rnds of the Leg and followed the instructions below to create the bendable knee.
Rnds 23-24: Dc around. Join.
Change to COL B.
Rnds 25-26: Dc around. Join.
Change to COL A.
Rnds 27-28: Dc around. Join.
Change to COL B.
Rnds 29-30: Dc around. Join.
Change to COL A.
Rnds 31-32: Dc around. Join.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Legs to the Body once you've made all the parts.
To create the bendable knee, with the front of the Foot facing you, flatten the top half of the Leg and using a length of COL A and a tapestry needle, sew across and through both layers of the Leg at Rnds 23-24 closing the bottom half of the Leg off from the top half. Fasten off and weave in ends of length of COL A. Stuff the top half of each Leg.
Crochet Girl Elf - hat
Plain Hat - for Girl Elf
Worked from the top down. Stuff at the end.
Rnd 1: With COL C, working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: Dc around.
Rnd 3: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnds 4-5: Dc around.
Rnd 6: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnds 7-8: Dc around.
Rnd 9: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnds 10-11: Dc around.
Rnd 12: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnds 13-14: Dc around.
Rnd 15: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnds 16-17: Dc around.
Rnd 18: [5 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 42 sts
Rnd 19: Dc around.
Change to COL D.
Rnd 20: Dc around.
Rnd 21: Dc around in FLO.
Rnds 22-23: Dc around.
Fasten off. Weave in end. Fold Hat brim out and up.
Worked from the top down. Stuff at the end.
Rnd 1: With COL C, working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: Dc around.
Rnd 3: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnds 4-5: Dc around.
Rnd 6: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnds 7-8: Dc around.
Rnd 9: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnds 10-11: Dc around.
Rnd 12: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnds 13-14: Dc around.
Rnd 15: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnds 16-17: Dc around.
Rnd 18: [5 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 42 sts
Rnd 19: Dc around.
Change to COL D.
Rnd 20: Dc around.
Rnd 21: Dc around in FLO.
Rnds 22-23: Dc around.
Fasten off. Weave in end. Fold Hat brim out and up.
Hair Cap - for Girl Elf
Worked from the top down.
Rnd 1: With COL G, working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 6: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnds 7-11: Dc around.
Rnd 12: *1 sl st, 7 ch, starting in 2nd ch from hook, [2 dc in next st, 1 dc] 3 times, miss next st; rep from * 7 more times, ** 1 sl st, 15 ch, starting in 2nd ch from hook, [2 dc in next st, 1 dc] 7 times, miss next st; rep from ** 9 more times, sl st in beg st.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Hair Cap to the Girl Elf's Head once you've made all the parts.
Worked from the top down.
Rnd 1: With COL G, working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 6: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnds 7-11: Dc around.
Rnd 12: *1 sl st, 7 ch, starting in 2nd ch from hook, [2 dc in next st, 1 dc] 3 times, miss next st; rep from * 7 more times, ** 1 sl st, 15 ch, starting in 2nd ch from hook, [2 dc in next st, 1 dc] 7 times, miss next st; rep from ** 9 more times, sl st in beg st.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Hair Cap to the Girl Elf's Head once you've made all the parts.
Crochet Girl Elf - pinafore front
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Crochet Girl Elf - pinafore back
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Pinafore - for Girl Elf
Made using turned rows, as two pieces, the Bib and the Skirt, from the top down. The turning chains aren't included in the stitch count. The Pinafore Straps are made separately.
Pinafore Bib
With COL C, chain 9.
Row 1: Starting in the 2nd ch from the hook, 1 dc in each st across. Turn. 8 sts
Rows 2-3: 1 ch, dc across. Turn.
Row 4: 1 ch, 1 dc, 2 dc in next st, 4 dc, 2 dc in next st, 1 dc. Turn. 10 sts
Rows 5-7: 1 ch, dc across. Turn.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Bib to the Skirt once you've made all the parts.
Pinafore Skirt
With COL C, chain 33.
Row 1: Starting in 2nd ch from hook, dc across. Turn. 32 sts
Row 2: 1 ch, dc across. Turn.
Row 3: 1 ch, 7 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice, 14 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice, 7 dc. Turn. 36 sts
Rows 4-12: 1 ch, dc across. Turn.
Row 13: 1 ch, 8 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice, 16 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice, 8 dc. Turn. 40 sts
Row 14: 1 ch, [1 dc, 3 tr in next st, 1 dc, 1 sl st] ten times. 60 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Skirt together following the instructions below.
To finish the Skirt:
Made using turned rows, as two pieces, the Bib and the Skirt, from the top down. The turning chains aren't included in the stitch count. The Pinafore Straps are made separately.
Pinafore Bib
With COL C, chain 9.
Row 1: Starting in the 2nd ch from the hook, 1 dc in each st across. Turn. 8 sts
Rows 2-3: 1 ch, dc across. Turn.
Row 4: 1 ch, 1 dc, 2 dc in next st, 4 dc, 2 dc in next st, 1 dc. Turn. 10 sts
Rows 5-7: 1 ch, dc across. Turn.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Bib to the Skirt once you've made all the parts.
Pinafore Skirt
With COL C, chain 33.
Row 1: Starting in 2nd ch from hook, dc across. Turn. 32 sts
Row 2: 1 ch, dc across. Turn.
Row 3: 1 ch, 7 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice, 14 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice, 7 dc. Turn. 36 sts
Rows 4-12: 1 ch, dc across. Turn.
Row 13: 1 ch, 8 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice, 16 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice, 8 dc. Turn. 40 sts
Row 14: 1 ch, [1 dc, 3 tr in next st, 1 dc, 1 sl st] ten times. 60 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Skirt together following the instructions below.
To finish the Skirt:
- Lay the piece flat in front of you with the rows running horizontally and fold the outer edges into the centre.
- Use the yarn tail to sew the short ends of each row together working back up to the first row creating the back seam. Weave in end.
Pinafore Straps - for Girl Elf - make 2
With COL C, chain 24.
Row 1: Starting in 2nd ch from the hook, 1 dc in each ch. 23 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Straps to the Body once you've made all the parts.
With COL C, chain 24.
Row 1: Starting in 2nd ch from the hook, 1 dc in each ch. 23 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Straps to the Body once you've made all the parts.
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Boy & Girl Elf - front
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Boy & Girl Elf - back
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Making Up
For both Elves:
For the Boy Elf:
For the Girl Elf:
- Using the photographs as a guide, pin the pieces together before sewing, checking from all angles to make sure you’re happy with the positioning, then use the long yarn tails or a length of yarn with a yarn needle to stitch the pieces together.
- There's a Photo Tutorial about sewing Amigurumi parts together seamlessly HERE.
- Before you start positioning the pieces, you may find it helpful to insert a line of pins running down the centre line of front of the Body, under its base and up the back, this will help you to position the rest of the Body parts evenly in relation to the central line. Remove any pins that are in the way of the pieces you are attaching as you go.
- There's a Photo Tutorial about using Pin Lines to help position amigurumi parts on the website - you can find it HERE.
For both Elves:
- Sew the top of the Body to the underside of the Head.
- The wider, flatter sides of the Body are the front and back. Sew the Arms in place on the sides of the Body, joining them on approx 4 rnds down from the top of the Body.
- Sew one Cuff on each Arm, sitting over the colour change between the "skin" part and the bottom of the sleeve section.
- With the feet facing forwards, sew the Legs to the base of the Body, spaced approx 2 stitches apart.
- Sew one Boot Trim over the top of each Boot section on the Legs.
- Sew the Collar in place around the neck where the top of the Body joins the underside of the Head.
- Sew the Wig Cap in place on the Head angled upwards to allow room to add the facial features. The bottom edge of the Wig Cap at the back of the Head should sit approx 4 rnds up from the join between the top of the Body and Head. For the Girl Elf, make sure the longer curls of the Wig Cap are sitting at the back of the Head, with the shorter curls at the front.
- Sew the Ears in place either side of the Head, with their bottom edge sitting approx 4 rnds up from the join between the top of the Body and the Head. The top edge of the Ear join should be sitting just on the edge of the Wig Cap.
- Sew the Eyes in place on the face part of the Head, with their bottom edge roughly 5-6 rnds up from the join between the top of the Body and the Head, and spaced approx 4-5 stitches apart.
- Sew the stuffed Hat Bobble onto the top of the Hat.
- Sew the Hat over the Wig Cap with the Hat brim folded out and up.
For the Boy Elf:
- Slide the shorts up over the Legs, with the joining seam at the back and sew around their top edge to secure in place.
- Sew one end of each of the Straps to the front of the Body, joining them to the top edge of the Shorts, approx 6 stitches apart.
- Take the Straps over the top of the Arms and cross them over at the back, sewing their other short edges to the top of the Shorts at the back, again approx 6 stitches apart.
- Sew two Buttons to the front of the Shorts, sitting just below the top edge of the Shorts where the Straps are attached.
For the Girl Elf:
- Pin the Pinafore Skirt, Bib and Straps all in place before sewing them into position to ensure they're correctly positioned.
- Slide the Pinafore Skirt up over the Legs with the joining seam at the back of the Body. Its top edge should be sitting roughly 16 rnds down from the top edge of the Body.
- Pin the Bib in place on the front of the Body with its bottom edge sitting up against the top edge of the Skirt.
- Pin one end of each of the Straps to the front of the Body, with the short end of each Strap sitting up against the outer ends of the top edge of the Bib.
- Take the Straps over the top of the Arms and cross them over at the back, pinning their other short edges to the top of the Skirt at the back, approx 4 stitches apart.
- Once you're happy with the positioning, sew the Skirt, Bib and Straps in place.
- Sew two Buttons to the front of the Bib, sitting just below its top edge, where the Straps are attached.
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Crochet Boy Elf - face
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Crochet Girl Elf - face
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Embroidered Details
For both Elves:
For both Elves:
- With a length of COL D, embroider a single stitch highlight on each Eye.
- With COL E for Boy Elf and COL F for Girl Elf, create a Nose by oversewing several times in the same place on the face, centred on and just below the Eyes.
- With COL J embroider a smile just below the Nose.
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Crochet Boy Elf - embroidery
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Crochet Girl Elf - embroidery
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For Boy Elf:
For Girl Elf:
- With COL H, embroider a fringe along the front edge of the Wig Cap.
- With COL D, embroider small starry "twinkles" on the front and back of his Shorts and a larger one on the front of his Body between the Straps.
- With COL C, embroider a cross on each of the Buttons on the front of the Boy Elf's Shorts.
For Girl Elf:
- With COL D, Embroider large starry "twinkles" around the Hat and one on the Bib of her Pinafore.
- With COL A, embroider a cross on each of the Buttons on the front of the Girl Elf's Pinafore.
Terms of Use
I am happy for you to donate, gift or sell any of the my crochet chums you make if you are an individual crafter - please credit mycrochetchums.com as the pattern designer. The patterns can not be used for any type of mass production or manufacturing.
If you do wish to sell your my crochet chums, it is your responsibility to ensure that the finished item complies with the relevant toy safety legislation in your country.
Please be sure to use toy grade stuffing and do not add buttons, bells, ribbons etc that could be a danger to small children.
You may print your PDF for personal use only (not for redistribution).
The patterns, files and all images are copyright protected and are not for commercial use. No part of the patterns may be sold, reproduced, transmitted, broadcast, translated, used for derivative works or published in any form.
About mycrochetchums
I started mycrochetchums at the end of 2020 to give me something to focus on during lockdown and to make creative use of a box of Amigurumi Yarn that was an impulse purchase I was feeling guilty about! I enjoyed it so much that when the world got back to "normal" I carried on.
I’m loving creating these cute characters and sharpening my tech skills in the process as I wrangle with managing a website and social media.
Check out the mycrochetchums Facebook page - drop me a message there if you have any feedback about the pattern or would like to share a picture of the end result.
You can also find me on Instagram @mycrochetchums.
If you have any questions about any of my patterns (or any other ami you may be working on) please email me at: [email protected] - I’ll do my best to help!
Happy Crocheting!
Pia 🧶😍x
©2023PIA SIMPSON/ MYCROCHETCHUMS
I am happy for you to donate, gift or sell any of the my crochet chums you make if you are an individual crafter - please credit mycrochetchums.com as the pattern designer. The patterns can not be used for any type of mass production or manufacturing.
If you do wish to sell your my crochet chums, it is your responsibility to ensure that the finished item complies with the relevant toy safety legislation in your country.
Please be sure to use toy grade stuffing and do not add buttons, bells, ribbons etc that could be a danger to small children.
You may print your PDF for personal use only (not for redistribution).
The patterns, files and all images are copyright protected and are not for commercial use. No part of the patterns may be sold, reproduced, transmitted, broadcast, translated, used for derivative works or published in any form.
About mycrochetchums
I started mycrochetchums at the end of 2020 to give me something to focus on during lockdown and to make creative use of a box of Amigurumi Yarn that was an impulse purchase I was feeling guilty about! I enjoyed it so much that when the world got back to "normal" I carried on.
I’m loving creating these cute characters and sharpening my tech skills in the process as I wrangle with managing a website and social media.
Check out the mycrochetchums Facebook page - drop me a message there if you have any feedback about the pattern or would like to share a picture of the end result.
You can also find me on Instagram @mycrochetchums.
If you have any questions about any of my patterns (or any other ami you may be working on) please email me at: [email protected] - I’ll do my best to help!
Happy Crocheting!
Pia 🧶😍x
©2023PIA SIMPSON/ MYCROCHETCHUMS
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