Free Amigurumi Crochet Christmas Teddy Bear Pattern
We're quick and easy to crochet!
Yarn
For the Brown Bear:
Scheepjes Chunky Monkey - Aran weight. 100% Acrylic. 116m per 100g
MC: 85g approx of Mellow (1420) for Head and Body, Legs, Arms, Ears and Muzzle.
CC1: 40g approx of Cardinal (1246) for Jumper and Hat
CC2: 30g approx of White (1001) for Jumper and Hat.
CC3: 10g approx of Chocolate (1004) for Nose and Embroidered Details.
Colours for Polar Bear:
MC: White (1001)
CC1: Emerald (2014)
CC2: Cardinal (1246)
CC3: Black (1002) *
*I didn't have any of the black yarn when I made the sample, so I used DK Black acrylic doubled up.
For the Brown Bear:
Scheepjes Chunky Monkey - Aran weight. 100% Acrylic. 116m per 100g
MC: 85g approx of Mellow (1420) for Head and Body, Legs, Arms, Ears and Muzzle.
CC1: 40g approx of Cardinal (1246) for Jumper and Hat
CC2: 30g approx of White (1001) for Jumper and Hat.
CC3: 10g approx of Chocolate (1004) for Nose and Embroidered Details.
Colours for Polar Bear:
MC: White (1001)
CC1: Emerald (2014)
CC2: Cardinal (1246)
CC3: Black (1002) *
*I didn't have any of the black yarn when I made the sample, so I used DK Black acrylic doubled up.
Hook
For the Brown Teddy: 4.5 mm - for the yarn specified above.
I made the White Polar Bear in the picture above using the same yarn on a a 3.5mm hook so that his stitches sat together a little more snuggly - so he used slightly less yarn than the Brown Teddy and came out a little smaller.
For the Brown Teddy: 4.5 mm - for the yarn specified above.
I made the White Polar Bear in the picture above using the same yarn on a a 3.5mm hook so that his stitches sat together a little more snuggly - so he used slightly less yarn than the Brown Teddy and came out a little smaller.
Other Supplies
Yarn needle, toy stuffing, stitch marker/waste yarn, pins and scissors.
Yarn needle, toy stuffing, stitch marker/waste yarn, pins and scissors.
Tension
16 st x 16 rows = 10 cm measured over UK dc using 4.5mm hook with Scheepjes Chunky Monkey Aran acrylic.
Tension is not critical for this project but stitches should be tight enough to avoid stuffing showing through.
16 st x 16 rows = 10 cm measured over UK dc using 4.5mm hook with Scheepjes Chunky Monkey Aran acrylic.
Tension is not critical for this project but stitches should be tight enough to avoid stuffing showing through.
Size
Brown Teddy: 36 cm (14 in) approx from top to toe.
Polar bear: 32 cm (12.5in) approx.
Brown Teddy: 36 cm (14 in) approx from top to toe.
Polar bear: 32 cm (12.5in) approx.
Pattern Notes
- Unless otherwise specified this pattern is worked in the amigurumi style, in a continuous spiral without slip stitching or turning chains.
- Use a stitch marker or waste yarn to keep track of the first stitch of each round. You can find a Photo Tutorial about using waste yarn as a stitch marker HERE.
- If you don't want to make a Magic Ring you can start each piece by making a chain of 2 and then work the first round into the second chain from the hook.
- If you'd like to start with a Magic Ring but don’t know how, you can find a Photo Tutorial HERE.
- The Teddy is made of multiple separate pieces sewn together. Unless otherwise stated, finish each piece by pulling the yarn through the last loop and leave a long tail for sewing. Any loose tails at the end can be easily woven in.
UK Crochet Terms - Abbreviations
This pattern is written using UK Crochet Terms - they are NOT the same as US ones - please familiarise yourself with the UK terms to avoid your character’s shape distorting!
The “dc” abbreviation used in this pattern refers to UK double crochet. The equivalent stitch in US terms is single crochet - if you are used to US patterns you need to work single crochet everywhere this pattern says “dc”. If you work US dc (equivalent to UK Treble) the finished item will be elongated and the stuffing will show through.
This pattern also uses UK tr (treble crochet) and UK htr (half treble crochet) - the equivalent stitches are US dc (double crochet) and US hdc (half double crochet).
If you are used to working in US Crochet Terms you can find a conversion chart HERE.
If you are unfamiliar with any of the terms used in this pattern, you can find a chart of the UK Crochet terms used HERE.
This pattern is written using UK Crochet Terms - they are NOT the same as US ones - please familiarise yourself with the UK terms to avoid your character’s shape distorting!
The “dc” abbreviation used in this pattern refers to UK double crochet. The equivalent stitch in US terms is single crochet - if you are used to US patterns you need to work single crochet everywhere this pattern says “dc”. If you work US dc (equivalent to UK Treble) the finished item will be elongated and the stuffing will show through.
This pattern also uses UK tr (treble crochet) and UK htr (half treble crochet) - the equivalent stitches are US dc (double crochet) and US hdc (half double crochet).
If you are used to working in US Crochet Terms you can find a conversion chart HERE.
If you are unfamiliar with any of the terms used in this pattern, you can find a chart of the UK Crochet terms used HERE.
Increasing and decreasing
You may use either standard increases and decreases in this pattern or, for a much neater finish, invisible ones. FLO = Front loop only.
Decrease - "dc2tog" in pattern.
Invisible decrease: Insert hook in FLO of the two stitches to be decreased, yrh, pull through both front loops, yrh, draw through two loops on hook.
Increase - "2 dc in next st" in pattern.
Invisible Increase: Work 1 dc in FLO of next st and 1 dc in both loops of same st.
You may use either standard increases and decreases in this pattern or, for a much neater finish, invisible ones. FLO = Front loop only.
Decrease - "dc2tog" in pattern.
Invisible decrease: Insert hook in FLO of the two stitches to be decreased, yrh, pull through both front loops, yrh, draw through two loops on hook.
Increase - "2 dc in next st" in pattern.
Invisible Increase: Work 1 dc in FLO of next st and 1 dc in both loops of same st.
Crochet Bear - Left Side
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Crochet Bear - Back Left view
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Body
Worked from the bottom of the Body upwards. Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 6: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnd 7: [5 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 42 sts
Rnd 8: [6 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 48 sts
Rnd 9: Dc around.
Change to CC1.
Rnds 10-11: Dc around.
Rnd 12: [6 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 42 sts
Rnds 13-14: Dc around.
Rnd 15: [5 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnds 16-17: Dc around.
Rnd 18: [4dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 19: Dc around.
Rnd 20: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 21: Dc around.
Rnd 22: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 23: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Body to the Head once you've made all the parts.
Worked from the bottom of the Body upwards. Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 6: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnd 7: [5 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 42 sts
Rnd 8: [6 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 48 sts
Rnd 9: Dc around.
Change to CC1.
Rnds 10-11: Dc around.
Rnd 12: [6 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 42 sts
Rnds 13-14: Dc around.
Rnd 15: [5 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnds 16-17: Dc around.
Rnd 18: [4dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 19: Dc around.
Rnd 20: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 21: Dc around.
Rnd 22: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 23: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Body to the Head once you've made all the parts.
Head
Made from bottom up. Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 1 dc, 4 dc in next st, 2 dc, 4 dc in next st, 1 dc. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 6: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnd 7: [5 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 42 sts
Rnds 8-11: Dc around.
Rnd 12: [5 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnds 13-14: Dc around.
Rnd 15: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnds 16-17: Dc around.
Rnd 18: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 19: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 20: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnd 21: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Fasten off. Weave yarn tail through last 6 sts and pull to close hole. Weave in end.
Made from bottom up. Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 1 dc, 4 dc in next st, 2 dc, 4 dc in next st, 1 dc. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 6: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnd 7: [5 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 42 sts
Rnds 8-11: Dc around.
Rnd 12: [5 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnds 13-14: Dc around.
Rnd 15: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnds 16-17: Dc around.
Rnd 18: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 19: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 20: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnd 21: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Fasten off. Weave yarn tail through last 6 sts and pull to close hole. Weave in end.
Muzzle
Made from front towards back. Stuff at end.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [2 dc in next st, 2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc in next st, 4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 24 sts
Rnds 5-7: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Muzzle to the Head once you've made all the parts.
Made from front towards back. Stuff at end.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [2 dc in next st, 2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc in next st, 4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 24 sts
Rnds 5-7: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Muzzle to the Head once you've made all the parts.
Crochet Bear - Front Right
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Crochet Bear - Left Side
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Ears - make 2
Do not stuff.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [2 dc in next st, 2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 18 sts
Rnds 4-6: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Ears to the Head once you've made all the parts. Flatten the Ears.
Do not stuff.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [2 dc in next st, 2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 18 sts
Rnds 4-6: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Ears to the Head once you've made all the parts. Flatten the Ears.
Arms - make 2
Worked from Paw up towards shoulder. Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: [2 dc, 4 dc in next st] twice. 12 sts
Rnds 3-7: Dc around.
Change to CC1.
Rnds 8-9: Dc around.
Rnd 10: 1 dc2tog, 10 dc. 11 sts
Rnds 11-12: Dc around.
Rnd 13: 1 dc, 1 dc2tog, 8 dc. 10 sts
Rnd 14: Dc around.
Rnd 15: 1 dc, 1 dc2tog, 7 dc. 9 sts
Rnd 16: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Arm to the Body once you've made all the parts.
Worked from Paw up towards shoulder. Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: [2 dc, 4 dc in next st] twice. 12 sts
Rnds 3-7: Dc around.
Change to CC1.
Rnds 8-9: Dc around.
Rnd 10: 1 dc2tog, 10 dc. 11 sts
Rnds 11-12: Dc around.
Rnd 13: 1 dc, 1 dc2tog, 8 dc. 10 sts
Rnd 14: Dc around.
Rnd 15: 1 dc, 1 dc2tog, 7 dc. 9 sts
Rnd 16: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Arm to the Body once you've made all the parts.
Legs - make 2
Worked from paw up towards Body. Stuff as you go. Chains not included in the stitch count. This piece has an Oval Start, you can find a tutorial showing the principle of an Oval Start HERE.
With MC, chain 4.
Rnd 1: Starting in the second chain from the hook, 3 dc, 2 ch, rotating as you go, in the other side of the chain, work 3 dc, 2 ch. 6 sts
Rnd 2: [3 dc, 3 dc in 2 ch-sp] twice. 12 sts
Rnd 3: * 3 dc, [2 dc in next st] 3 times; rep from * once more. 18 sts
Rnd 4: 5 dc, [2 dc in next st] 3 times, 10 dc. 21 sts
Rnd 5: Dc around.
Rnd 6: 5dc, [1 dc2tog, 1 dc] twice, 1 dc2tog, 8 dc. 18 sts
Rnd 7: 5 dc, 3 dc2tog, 7 dc. 15 sts
Rnd 8: 3 dc, 3 dc2tog, 6 dc. 12 sts
Rnd 9: 3dc, 1 dc2tog, 7 dc. 11 sts
Rnds 10-16: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Leg to the Body once you've made all the parts.
Worked from paw up towards Body. Stuff as you go. Chains not included in the stitch count. This piece has an Oval Start, you can find a tutorial showing the principle of an Oval Start HERE.
With MC, chain 4.
Rnd 1: Starting in the second chain from the hook, 3 dc, 2 ch, rotating as you go, in the other side of the chain, work 3 dc, 2 ch. 6 sts
Rnd 2: [3 dc, 3 dc in 2 ch-sp] twice. 12 sts
Rnd 3: * 3 dc, [2 dc in next st] 3 times; rep from * once more. 18 sts
Rnd 4: 5 dc, [2 dc in next st] 3 times, 10 dc. 21 sts
Rnd 5: Dc around.
Rnd 6: 5dc, [1 dc2tog, 1 dc] twice, 1 dc2tog, 8 dc. 18 sts
Rnd 7: 5 dc, 3 dc2tog, 7 dc. 15 sts
Rnd 8: 3 dc, 3 dc2tog, 6 dc. 12 sts
Rnd 9: 3dc, 1 dc2tog, 7 dc. 11 sts
Rnds 10-16: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Leg to the Body once you've made all the parts.
Nose
Do not stuff.
Rnd 1: With CC3 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: Dc around.
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnd 4: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Nose to the Muzzle once you've made all the parts. Flatten the Nose.
Do not stuff.
Rnd 1: With CC3 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: Dc around.
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnd 4: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Nose to the Muzzle once you've made all the parts. Flatten the Nose.
Hat
Made from top down. Bobble made separately.
Rnd 1: With CC1 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: Dc around.
Rnd 3: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 4: Dc around.
Rnd 5: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 6: Dc around.
Rnd 7: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 8: Dc around.
Change to CC2.
Rnd 9: Dc around.
Rnd 10: Dc around in FLO.
Rnd 11: Dc around.
Fasten off. Weave in end. Turn Hat brim out and up.
Made from top down. Bobble made separately.
Rnd 1: With CC1 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: Dc around.
Rnd 3: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 4: Dc around.
Rnd 5: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 6: Dc around.
Rnd 7: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 8: Dc around.
Change to CC2.
Rnd 9: Dc around.
Rnd 10: Dc around in FLO.
Rnd 11: Dc around.
Fasten off. Weave in end. Turn Hat brim out and up.
Hat Bobble
Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With CC2 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnds 3-4: Dc around.
Rnd 5: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Bobble to the Hat once you've made all the parts.
Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With CC2 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnds 3-4: Dc around.
Rnd 5: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Bobble to the Hat once you've made all the parts.
Crochet Bear - Back
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Crochet bear - Front Left
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Collar
Made as a long tube which is then flattened. Do not stuff.
Rnd 1: With CC2 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: Dc around in BLO.
Rnds 3-23: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Collar to the Body once you've made all the parts.
Made as a long tube which is then flattened. Do not stuff.
Rnd 1: With CC2 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: Dc around in BLO.
Rnds 3-23: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Collar to the Body once you've made all the parts.
Cuffs - make 2
With CC2, chain 19.
Row 1: Starting in the second chain from the hook, 1 dc in each st down chain. 18 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Cuff to the Arm once you've made all the parts.
With CC2, chain 19.
Row 1: Starting in the second chain from the hook, 1 dc in each st down chain. 18 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Cuff to the Arm once you've made all the parts.
Bottom Rib of Jumper
With CC2, chain 51.
Row 1: Starting in the second chain from the hook, 1 dc in each st down chain. Turn. 50 sts
Row 2: 1 ch, dc across.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Jumper Rib to the Body once you've made all the parts.
With CC2, chain 51.
Row 1: Starting in the second chain from the hook, 1 dc in each st down chain. Turn. 50 sts
Row 2: 1 ch, dc across.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Jumper Rib to the Body once you've made all the parts.
Crochet Bear - Base
Making Up
Using the photographs as a guide, pin the pieces together before sewing, checking from all angles to make sure you’re happy with the positioning, then use the long yarn tails or a length of yarn with a yarn needle to stitch the pieces together.
Before you start positioning the pieces, you may find it helpful to insert a line of pins running down the front centre line of the Body and Head, taking them under the base and up the back to the top of both- this will help you to position everything else evenly in relation to the central line. Remove any pins that are in the way of the pieces you are attaching as you go.
If the previous paragraph has confused you, there's a Photo Tutorial about using Pin Lines to help position amigurumi parts on the website - you can find it HERE.
There's also a tutorial showing how to join amigurumi parts together seamlessly HERE.
Using the photographs as a guide, pin the pieces together before sewing, checking from all angles to make sure you’re happy with the positioning, then use the long yarn tails or a length of yarn with a yarn needle to stitch the pieces together.
Before you start positioning the pieces, you may find it helpful to insert a line of pins running down the front centre line of the Body and Head, taking them under the base and up the back to the top of both- this will help you to position everything else evenly in relation to the central line. Remove any pins that are in the way of the pieces you are attaching as you go.
If the previous paragraph has confused you, there's a Photo Tutorial about using Pin Lines to help position amigurumi parts on the website - you can find it HERE.
There's also a tutorial showing how to join amigurumi parts together seamlessly HERE.
- Stuff the Hat and sew it to the top of the Head. Sew the Bobble to the top of the Hat.
- The wider, flatter sides of the Head are the Front/Back. Stuff the Muzzle and sew it to the front of the Head with its top edge sitting about 4 rounds down from the bottom edge of the Hat.
- Pin the flattened Ears to each side of the Head, ensuring that they curve. The top of the Ear join should sit just below the bottom edge of the Hat. The bottom of the Ear join should sit approx 3 stitches back from the side edge of the Muzzle.
- Sew the flattened Nose to the Muzzle with its bottom point sitting on the first round of the muzzle.
- Sew the top edge of the Body to the underside of the Head.
- Sew the Legs to the bottom of the Body, making sure the feet are facing forward. The Legs should be joined on roughly in line with Rnd 6 of the Body, set forwards slightly so the Teddy can sit on his bottom.
- Sew the flattened Collar tube in place at the top of the Body, around the neck.
- Sew the Cuffs to the Arms covering the join between the two colours.
- Sew the Arms in place just below the bottom edge of the Collar. Looking from the side, they should be roughly in line with the Ears.
- Sew the Bottom Rib of the Jumper in place covering the join between the two colours.
Crochet Bear - Jumper Detail
Embroidered Details
Using the photos as a guide, with a yarn needle, embroider the following:
Using the photos as a guide, with a yarn needle, embroider the following:
- With CC2, embroider the twinkle decoration on the Teddy's jumper. There is a photo tutorial about embroidering twinkles (at a smaller scale but the principle is the same) on the website HERE.
- With CC3, embroider the Teddy's Mouth and Eyes and the three claws on each of his Paws.
Crochet Bear - Face Detail
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Crochet Bear - Paw Detail
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Terms of Use
- I am happy for you to donate, gift or sell any of the my crochet chums you make if you are an individual crafter - please credit mycrochetchums.com as the designer.
- If you do wish to sell your my crochet chums, it is your responsibility to ensure that the finished item complies with the relevant toy legislation in your country.
- Please be sure to use toy grade stuffing and do not add buttons, bells, ribbons etc that could be a danger to small children.
- The patterns are copyright protected and are not for commercial use. They cannot be sold, transmitted, distributed or reproduced in any form or by any means. I’ve worked hard to create the designs - please don’t sell my patterns - it’s just plain mean!
About mycrochetchums
I started mycrochetchums at the end of 2020 to give me something to focus on during lockdown and to make creative use of a box of Amigurumi Yarn that was an impulse purchase I was feeling guilty about!
I’m loving creating these cute characters and sharpening my tech skills in the process as I wrangle with managing a website and social media.
Check out the mycrochetchums Facebook page - drop me a message there if you have any feedback about the pattern or would like to share a picture of the end result.
You can also find me on Instagram @mycrochetchums.
If you have any questions about any of my patterns (or any other ami you may be working on) please email me at: [email protected] - I’ll do my best to help!
Happy Crocheting!
Pia x
©2022PIA SIMPSON/ MYCROCHETCHUMS
I started mycrochetchums at the end of 2020 to give me something to focus on during lockdown and to make creative use of a box of Amigurumi Yarn that was an impulse purchase I was feeling guilty about!
I’m loving creating these cute characters and sharpening my tech skills in the process as I wrangle with managing a website and social media.
Check out the mycrochetchums Facebook page - drop me a message there if you have any feedback about the pattern or would like to share a picture of the end result.
You can also find me on Instagram @mycrochetchums.
If you have any questions about any of my patterns (or any other ami you may be working on) please email me at: [email protected] - I’ll do my best to help!
Happy Crocheting!
Pia x
©2022PIA SIMPSON/ MYCROCHETCHUMS
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