#stashbusterchums - No 46 - Christmas Elf Mouse
Free PDFs of this pattern available to Mailing Listers in both UK and US Crochet Terms.
No 46 Elf Mouse!
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Scroll down for pattern and more photos!
Yarn
Scheepjes Catona 4ply, 100% Cotton. 125m per 50g
MC: 25g approx of Champagne (248) for Head, Ears, Tail and Hands.
CC1: 10g approx of Apple Granny (513) for Body, Legs and Collar.
CC2: 15g approx of Hot Red (115) for Body, Hat and Boots.
CC3: 5g approx of Jade (514) for Belt and Hat Brim.
CC4: 5g approx of Sweet Orange (411) for Belt Buckle and Pom Pom.
CC5: 5g approx of Snow White (106) for Cuffs, Top of Boots, and Embroidered Details.
CC6: Small amount of Jet Black (110) for Eyes and Mouth.
CC7: Small amount of Freesia (519) for the Nose.
A cotton yarn works well for Ami as it gives good stitch definition and creates a firm structure so body parts hold their shape well. Catona is a relatively thick 4 ply (US: Sport) - you can substitute a DK Cotton (US: DK/Light Worsted) with a similar amount of meters per 50g.
Scheepjes Catona 4ply, 100% Cotton. 125m per 50g
MC: 25g approx of Champagne (248) for Head, Ears, Tail and Hands.
CC1: 10g approx of Apple Granny (513) for Body, Legs and Collar.
CC2: 15g approx of Hot Red (115) for Body, Hat and Boots.
CC3: 5g approx of Jade (514) for Belt and Hat Brim.
CC4: 5g approx of Sweet Orange (411) for Belt Buckle and Pom Pom.
CC5: 5g approx of Snow White (106) for Cuffs, Top of Boots, and Embroidered Details.
CC6: Small amount of Jet Black (110) for Eyes and Mouth.
CC7: Small amount of Freesia (519) for the Nose.
A cotton yarn works well for Ami as it gives good stitch definition and creates a firm structure so body parts hold their shape well. Catona is a relatively thick 4 ply (US: Sport) - you can substitute a DK Cotton (US: DK/Light Worsted) with a similar amount of meters per 50g.
Hook
3 mm
3 mm
Tension
24 sts x 27 rows = 10cm measured over dc using 3mm hook.
Tension is not critical for this project but stitches should be tight enough to avoid stuffing showing through.
24 sts x 27 rows = 10cm measured over dc using 3mm hook.
Tension is not critical for this project but stitches should be tight enough to avoid stuffing showing through.
Other Supplies
Yarn needle, toy stuffing, stitch marker/waste yarn, scissors.
Yarn needle, toy stuffing, stitch marker/waste yarn, scissors.
Size
Approx 24 cm (9.5 in) tall.
Approx 24 cm (9.5 in) tall.
Pattern Notes
Unless otherwise specified this pattern is worked in the amigurumi style, in a continuous spiral without slip stitching or turning chains.
Use a stitch marker or waste yarn to keep track of the first stitch of each round.
If you do not want to make a Magic Ring you can start each piece by making a chain of 2 and then work the first round into the second chain from the hook.
If you would like to start with a Magic Ring but don’t know how, you can find a Photo Tutorial HERE.
The Elf Mouse is made of multiple separate pieces sewn together. Unless otherwise stated, finish each piece by pulling the yarn through the last loop and leave a long tail for sewing. Any loose tails at the end can be easily woven in.
Unless otherwise specified this pattern is worked in the amigurumi style, in a continuous spiral without slip stitching or turning chains.
Use a stitch marker or waste yarn to keep track of the first stitch of each round.
If you do not want to make a Magic Ring you can start each piece by making a chain of 2 and then work the first round into the second chain from the hook.
If you would like to start with a Magic Ring but don’t know how, you can find a Photo Tutorial HERE.
The Elf Mouse is made of multiple separate pieces sewn together. Unless otherwise stated, finish each piece by pulling the yarn through the last loop and leave a long tail for sewing. Any loose tails at the end can be easily woven in.
UK Crochet Terms - Abbreviations
This pattern is written using UK Crochet Terms - they are NOT the same as US ones - please familiarise yourself with the UK terms to avoid your character’s shape distorting!
The “dc” abbreviation used in this pattern refers to UK double crochet. The equivalent stitch in US terms is single crochet - if you are used to US patterns you need to work single crochet everywhere this pattern says “dc”. If you work US dc (equivalent to UK Treble) the finished item will be elongated and the stuffing will show through.
This pattern also uses UK htr - half treble - and UK tr - treble; the equivalent US stitches are US hdc - half double crochet and US dc - double crochet.
If you are used to working in US Crochet Terms you can find a conversion chart HERE.
If you are unfamiliar with any of the terms used in this pattern, you can find a chart of the UK Crochet terms used HERE.
A PDF version of this pattern in US Crochet Terms is available to Mailing Listers - sign up at the top of the page!
This pattern is written using UK Crochet Terms - they are NOT the same as US ones - please familiarise yourself with the UK terms to avoid your character’s shape distorting!
The “dc” abbreviation used in this pattern refers to UK double crochet. The equivalent stitch in US terms is single crochet - if you are used to US patterns you need to work single crochet everywhere this pattern says “dc”. If you work US dc (equivalent to UK Treble) the finished item will be elongated and the stuffing will show through.
This pattern also uses UK htr - half treble - and UK tr - treble; the equivalent US stitches are US hdc - half double crochet and US dc - double crochet.
If you are used to working in US Crochet Terms you can find a conversion chart HERE.
If you are unfamiliar with any of the terms used in this pattern, you can find a chart of the UK Crochet terms used HERE.
A PDF version of this pattern in US Crochet Terms is available to Mailing Listers - sign up at the top of the page!
Increasing and decreasing
The “invisible” techniques below are recommended to give your amigurumi a neat finish:
Invisible Increase: Work 1 dc in FLO of next st and 1 dc in both loops of same st.
Invisible decrease: Insert hook in FLO of the two stitches to be decreased, yrh, pull through both front loops, yrh, draw through two loops on hook.
The “invisible” techniques below are recommended to give your amigurumi a neat finish:
Invisible Increase: Work 1 dc in FLO of next st and 1 dc in both loops of same st.
Invisible decrease: Insert hook in FLO of the two stitches to be decreased, yrh, pull through both front loops, yrh, draw through two loops on hook.
Elf Mouse - Front
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Elf Mouse - Back
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Body
Worked from the bottom upwards. Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With CC1 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 6: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnd 7: Dc around.
Rnd 8: [5 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 42 sts
Rnds 9-10: Dc around.
Rnd 11: [5 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnds 12-13: Dc around.
Change to CC2.
Rnd 14-15: Dc around.
Rnd 16: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnds 17-19: Dc around.
Rnd 20: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnds 21-22: Dc around.
Rnd 23: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 24-25: Dc around.
Fasten off.
Worked from the bottom upwards. Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With CC1 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 6: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnd 7: Dc around.
Rnd 8: [5 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 42 sts
Rnds 9-10: Dc around.
Rnd 11: [5 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnds 12-13: Dc around.
Change to CC2.
Rnd 14-15: Dc around.
Rnd 16: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnds 17-19: Dc around.
Rnd 20: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnds 21-22: Dc around.
Rnd 23: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 24-25: Dc around.
Fasten off.
Head
Worked from tip of snout back. Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: Dc around.
Rnd 3: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnds 4-5: Dc around.
Rnd 6: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnds 7-8: Dc around.
Rnd 9: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times, 6 dc. 24 sts
Rnd 10: Dc around.
Rnd 11: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times, 6 dc. 30 sts
Rnd 12: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times, 6 dc. 36 sts
Rnd 13: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times, 6 dc. 42 sts
Rnd 14: [5 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times, 6 dc. 48 sts
Rnds 15-19: Dc around.
Rnd 20: [6 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 42 sts
Rnd 21: Dc around.
Rnd 22: [5 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnd 23: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 24: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 25: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 26: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnd 27: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Fasten off.
Worked from tip of snout back. Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: Dc around.
Rnd 3: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnds 4-5: Dc around.
Rnd 6: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnds 7-8: Dc around.
Rnd 9: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times, 6 dc. 24 sts
Rnd 10: Dc around.
Rnd 11: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times, 6 dc. 30 sts
Rnd 12: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times, 6 dc. 36 sts
Rnd 13: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times, 6 dc. 42 sts
Rnd 14: [5 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times, 6 dc. 48 sts
Rnds 15-19: Dc around.
Rnd 20: [6 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 42 sts
Rnd 21: Dc around.
Rnd 22: [5 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnd 23: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 24: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 25: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 26: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnd 27: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Fasten off.
Ears - make 2
Do not stuff.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: Dc around.
Rnd 6: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnds 7-9: Dc around.
Rnd 10: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 11: Dc around.
Rnd 12: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 13: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnd 14: Dc around.
Fasten off.
Do not stuff.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: Dc around.
Rnd 6: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnds 7-9: Dc around.
Rnd 10: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 11: Dc around.
Rnd 12: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 13: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnd 14: Dc around.
Fasten off.
Eyes - make 2
Rnd 1: With CC6 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc, sl st in first dc to join. 6 sts
Fasten off.
Rnd 1: With CC6 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc, sl st in first dc to join. 6 sts
Fasten off.
Nose
Rnd 1: With CC7 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnd 3: Dc around.
Rnd 4: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 6 sts
Fasten off.
Rnd 1: With CC7 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnd 3: Dc around.
Rnd 4: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 6 sts
Fasten off.
Arms - make 2
Worked from the hand upwards. White cuff is made separately. Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnd 3: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 12 sts
Rnd 4: Dc around.
Rnd 5: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnd 6: Dc around.
Rnd 7: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 6 sts
Change to CC2.
Rnds 8-13: Dc around.
Fasten off.
Worked from the hand upwards. White cuff is made separately. Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnd 3: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 12 sts
Rnd 4: Dc around.
Rnd 5: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnd 6: Dc around.
Rnd 7: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 6 sts
Change to CC2.
Rnds 8-13: Dc around.
Fasten off.
Legs - make 2
Worked from the boot upwards. White cuff is made separately. Stuff as you go. Chains not included in stitch count.
With CC2, chain 4.
Rnd 1: Starting in second ch from hook, 3 dc, 2 ch, rotating as you go, 3 dc in other side of ch, 2 ch. 6 sts
Rnd 2: [3 dc, 3 dc in 2 ch-sp] twice. 12 sts
Rnd 3: *3 dc, [2 dc in next st] 3 times, **; rep from * to ** once more. 18 sts
Rnd 4: Dc around.
Rnd 5: 3 dc, 3 dc2tog, 9 dc. 15 sts
Rnd 6: 3 dc, 3 dc2tog, 6 dc. 12 sts
Rnd 7: 2 dc, 3 dc2tog, 4 dc. 9 sts
Rnd 8: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 6 sts
Change to CC1.
Rnds 9-13: Dc around.
Fasten off.
Worked from the boot upwards. White cuff is made separately. Stuff as you go. Chains not included in stitch count.
With CC2, chain 4.
Rnd 1: Starting in second ch from hook, 3 dc, 2 ch, rotating as you go, 3 dc in other side of ch, 2 ch. 6 sts
Rnd 2: [3 dc, 3 dc in 2 ch-sp] twice. 12 sts
Rnd 3: *3 dc, [2 dc in next st] 3 times, **; rep from * to ** once more. 18 sts
Rnd 4: Dc around.
Rnd 5: 3 dc, 3 dc2tog, 9 dc. 15 sts
Rnd 6: 3 dc, 3 dc2tog, 6 dc. 12 sts
Rnd 7: 2 dc, 3 dc2tog, 4 dc. 9 sts
Rnd 8: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 6 sts
Change to CC1.
Rnds 9-13: Dc around.
Fasten off.
Cuffs/Tops of Boots - make 4
With CC5, chain 12.
Row 1: Starting in the second ch from the hook, 11 dc. Turn. 11 sts
Row 2: 1 ch, 11 sl st.
Fasten off.
With CC5, chain 12.
Row 1: Starting in the second ch from the hook, 11 dc. Turn. 11 sts
Row 2: 1 ch, 11 sl st.
Fasten off.
Belt
With CC3, chain 37.
Row 1: Starting in the second ch from the hook, 36 dc. Turn. 36 sts
Row 2: 1 ch, 36 dc. 36 sts
Fasten off.
With CC3, chain 37.
Row 1: Starting in the second ch from the hook, 36 dc. Turn. 36 sts
Row 2: 1 ch, 36 dc. 36 sts
Fasten off.
Belt Buckle
Chains are not included in stitch count.
With CC4, chain 11.
Row 1: Starting in the second ch from hook, *2 dc, 2 ch, 3 dc, 2 ch**; rep from * to ** once more, sl st in beg dc to join. 10 sts
Fasten off.
Chains are not included in stitch count.
With CC4, chain 11.
Row 1: Starting in the second ch from hook, *2 dc, 2 ch, 3 dc, 2 ch**; rep from * to ** once more, sl st in beg dc to join. 10 sts
Fasten off.
Collar
Chains are not included in stitch count.
With CC1, chain 19.
Row 1: Starting in the second ch from hook, 18 dc. Turn. 18 sts
To work the points:
Row 2: *1 sl st, 9 ch, starting in second ch from hook, 2 sl st, 2 dc, 2 htr, 2 tr, miss next st from Row 1, 1 sl st **; rep from * to ** 5 more times.
Fasten off.
Chains are not included in stitch count.
With CC1, chain 19.
Row 1: Starting in the second ch from hook, 18 dc. Turn. 18 sts
To work the points:
Row 2: *1 sl st, 9 ch, starting in second ch from hook, 2 sl st, 2 dc, 2 htr, 2 tr, miss next st from Row 1, 1 sl st **; rep from * to ** 5 more times.
Fasten off.
Hat
Worked from the top down.
Rnd 1: With CC2 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnds 2-3: Dc around.
Rnd 4: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnd 5: Dc around.
Rnd 6: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 12 sts
Rnd 7: Dc around.
Rnd 8: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 9: Dc around.
Rnd 10: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 11: Dc around.
Rnd 12: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 13: Dc around.
Rnd 14: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts
Change to CC3.
Rnd 15: Dc around.
Rnd 16: Working in FLO for whole round, [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. Turn. 30 sts
Rnd 17: 1 sl st in first st, *3 ch, starting in second ch from hook, 1 dc, 1 htr, miss next st, 2 sl st**; rep from * to ** 9 more times, finishing with one sl st in last st of Rnd 16.
Fasten off.
Worked from the top down.
Rnd 1: With CC2 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnds 2-3: Dc around.
Rnd 4: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnd 5: Dc around.
Rnd 6: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 12 sts
Rnd 7: Dc around.
Rnd 8: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 9: Dc around.
Rnd 10: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 11: Dc around.
Rnd 12: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 13: Dc around.
Rnd 14: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts
Change to CC3.
Rnd 15: Dc around.
Rnd 16: Working in FLO for whole round, [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. Turn. 30 sts
Rnd 17: 1 sl st in first st, *3 ch, starting in second ch from hook, 1 dc, 1 htr, miss next st, 2 sl st**; rep from * to ** 9 more times, finishing with one sl st in last st of Rnd 16.
Fasten off.
Tail
Worked from the tip back. Do not stuff.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 4 dc. 4 sts
Rnds 2-18: Dc around.
Fasten off.
Worked from the tip back. Do not stuff.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 4 dc. 4 sts
Rnds 2-18: Dc around.
Fasten off.
Pom Pom
Worked from the top down. Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With CC4 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnds 3-4: Dc around.
Rnd 5: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Fasten off.
Worked from the top down. Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With CC4 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnds 3-4: Dc around.
Rnd 5: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Fasten off.
Elf Mouse - Front Right
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Elf Mouse - Front Left
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Making Up
Using the photographs as a guide, pin the pieces together first, checking from all angles to make sure you’re happy with the positioning, then use the long yarn tails or a length of yarn with a yarn needle to stitch the pieces together.
Sew the Collar to the top of the Body.
Sew the Head to the top of the Body.
Sew the Ears either side of the Head, centred on the Snout, roughly in line with Rnd 17 of the Head. Make sure to leave enough room between the Ears to attach the Hat later.
Sew the Eyes in place roughly in line with Rnd 11 of the Head, spaced about 3-4 stitches apart.
Sew the Nose on to the end of the Snout.
Sew the Arms on either side of the Body about 5 Rnds down from the top of the Body.
Sew the Cuffs in place on the Arms.
Sew the Legs to the bottom of the Body, roughly in line with Rnd 4, set forward so the Mouse will be able to sit on his bottom. See photo below.
Sew the Tops of Boots in place on the Legs.
Stuff the Hat and sew in place on the top of the Head.
Using the photographs as a guide, pin the pieces together first, checking from all angles to make sure you’re happy with the positioning, then use the long yarn tails or a length of yarn with a yarn needle to stitch the pieces together.
Sew the Collar to the top of the Body.
Sew the Head to the top of the Body.
Sew the Ears either side of the Head, centred on the Snout, roughly in line with Rnd 17 of the Head. Make sure to leave enough room between the Ears to attach the Hat later.
Sew the Eyes in place roughly in line with Rnd 11 of the Head, spaced about 3-4 stitches apart.
Sew the Nose on to the end of the Snout.
Sew the Arms on either side of the Body about 5 Rnds down from the top of the Body.
Sew the Cuffs in place on the Arms.
Sew the Legs to the bottom of the Body, roughly in line with Rnd 4, set forward so the Mouse will be able to sit on his bottom. See photo below.
Sew the Tops of Boots in place on the Legs.
Stuff the Hat and sew in place on the top of the Head.
Elf Mouse - Base
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Elf Mouse - Tail
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Sew the Pom Pom onto the top of the Hat.
Sew the Belt in place on the Body where the two Body colours meet.
Sew the Belt Buckle in place over the Belt on the front of the Body.
Sew the Tail in place on the back of the Body, roughly in line with Rnd 6 of the Body.
Sew the Belt in place on the Body where the two Body colours meet.
Sew the Belt Buckle in place over the Belt on the front of the Body.
Sew the Tail in place on the back of the Body, roughly in line with Rnd 6 of the Body.
Embroidered Details
Using the photos as a guide, with a yarn needle embroider the following details:
Single stitch highlight on each Eyes, using CC5.
The smile below the Nose using CC6.
The "snowflake" detail on the Body using CC5.
All done!
Using the photos as a guide, with a yarn needle embroider the following details:
Single stitch highlight on each Eyes, using CC5.
The smile below the Nose using CC6.
The "snowflake" detail on the Body using CC5.
All done!
Terms of Use
I am happy for you to donate, gift or sell any of the my crochet chums you make if you are an individual crafter - please credit mycrochetchums.com as the designer.
If you do wish to sell your my crochet chums, it is your responsibility to ensure that the finished item complies with the relevant toy legislation in your country.
Please be sure to use toy grade stuffing and do not add buttons, bells, ribbons etc that could be a danger to small children.
The patterns are copyright protected and are not for commercial use. They cannot be sold, transmitted, distributed or reproduced in any form or by any means. I’ve worked hard to create the designs - please don’t sell my patterns - it’s just plain mean!
I am happy for you to donate, gift or sell any of the my crochet chums you make if you are an individual crafter - please credit mycrochetchums.com as the designer.
If you do wish to sell your my crochet chums, it is your responsibility to ensure that the finished item complies with the relevant toy legislation in your country.
Please be sure to use toy grade stuffing and do not add buttons, bells, ribbons etc that could be a danger to small children.
The patterns are copyright protected and are not for commercial use. They cannot be sold, transmitted, distributed or reproduced in any form or by any means. I’ve worked hard to create the designs - please don’t sell my patterns - it’s just plain mean!
About mycrochetchums
I started mycrochetchums at the end of 2020 to give me something to focus on during lockdown and to make creative use of a box of Amigurumi Yarn that was an impulse purchase I was feeling guilty about!
I’m loving creating these cute characters and sharpening my tech skills in the process as I wrangle with managing a website and social media.
Check out the mycrochetchums Facebook page - drop me a message there if you have any feedback about the pattern or would like to share a picture of the end result.
You can also find me on Instagram @mycrochetchums.
If you have any questions about any of my patterns (or any other ami you may be working on) please email me at: pia@mycrochetchums.com - I’ll do my best to help!
Happy Crocheting!
Pia x
©PIA SIMPSON/ MYCROCHETCHUMS 2021
I started mycrochetchums at the end of 2020 to give me something to focus on during lockdown and to make creative use of a box of Amigurumi Yarn that was an impulse purchase I was feeling guilty about!
I’m loving creating these cute characters and sharpening my tech skills in the process as I wrangle with managing a website and social media.
Check out the mycrochetchums Facebook page - drop me a message there if you have any feedback about the pattern or would like to share a picture of the end result.
You can also find me on Instagram @mycrochetchums.
If you have any questions about any of my patterns (or any other ami you may be working on) please email me at: pia@mycrochetchums.com - I’ll do my best to help!
Happy Crocheting!
Pia x
©PIA SIMPSON/ MYCROCHETCHUMS 2021
