Free Amigurumi Crochet Bald Eagle Pattern
Crochet your own Bald Eagle!
Let's get started...
Yarn
Scheepjes Catona. 100% Cotton. 125m per 50g
MC: 40g approx of Black Coffee (162) for Body, Legs, Wings and Tail.
CC1: 15g approx of Bridal White (105) for Head, Tail and Embroidered Details.
CC2: 10g approx of Sweet Orange (411) for Beak, Legs and Feet.
CC3: Small amount of Jet Black (110) for Eyes and Embroidered Detail.
A cotton yarn works well for Ami as it gives good stitch definition and creates a firm structure so body parts hold their shape well. Scheepjes Catona is a relatively thick 4 ply (US: Sport) - you can substitute a DK Cotton (US: DK/Light Worsted) with a similar amount of metres per 50g.
You can scale this pattern up or down by altering the yarn and hook. Use a heavier weight yarn and larger hook for a bigger Goose and a lighter weight yarn and smaller hook for a little one.
To read more about scaling an Amigurumi pattern up or down, check out my guide HERE.
Scheepjes Catona. 100% Cotton. 125m per 50g
MC: 40g approx of Black Coffee (162) for Body, Legs, Wings and Tail.
CC1: 15g approx of Bridal White (105) for Head, Tail and Embroidered Details.
CC2: 10g approx of Sweet Orange (411) for Beak, Legs and Feet.
CC3: Small amount of Jet Black (110) for Eyes and Embroidered Detail.
A cotton yarn works well for Ami as it gives good stitch definition and creates a firm structure so body parts hold their shape well. Scheepjes Catona is a relatively thick 4 ply (US: Sport) - you can substitute a DK Cotton (US: DK/Light Worsted) with a similar amount of metres per 50g.
You can scale this pattern up or down by altering the yarn and hook. Use a heavier weight yarn and larger hook for a bigger Goose and a lighter weight yarn and smaller hook for a little one.
To read more about scaling an Amigurumi pattern up or down, check out my guide HERE.
Hook
2 mm - for the yarn specified above.
2 mm - for the yarn specified above.
Other Supplies
Yarn needle, toy stuffing, stitch marker/waste yarn, pins and scissors.
Yarn needle, toy stuffing, stitch marker/waste yarn, pins and scissors.
Tension
27 st x 30 rows = 10 cm measured over UK dc using 2mm hook with Scheepjes Catona 4 ply cotton.
Tension is not critical for this project but stitches should be tight enough to avoid stuffing showing through.
27 st x 30 rows = 10 cm measured over UK dc using 2mm hook with Scheepjes Catona 4 ply cotton.
Tension is not critical for this project but stitches should be tight enough to avoid stuffing showing through.
Size
17 cm (6.5 in) approx from top to toe.
17 cm (6.5 in) approx from top to toe.
Crochet Bald Eagle - Right Side
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Crochet Bald Eagle - Left Side
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Pattern Notes
Unless otherwise specified this pattern is worked in the amigurumi style, in a continuous spiral without slip stitching or turning chains.
Use a stitch marker or waste yarn to keep track of the first stitch of each round. You can find a Photo Tutorial about using waste yarn as a stitch marker HERE.
If you don't want to make a Magic Ring you can start each piece by making a chain of 2 and then work the first round into the second chain from the hook.
If you'd like to start with a Magic Ring but don’t know how, you can find a Photo Tutorial HERE.
The Eagle is made of multiple separate pieces sewn together. Unless otherwise stated, finish each piece by pulling the yarn through the last loop and leave a long tail for sewing. Any loose tails at the end can be easily woven in.
Unless otherwise specified this pattern is worked in the amigurumi style, in a continuous spiral without slip stitching or turning chains.
Use a stitch marker or waste yarn to keep track of the first stitch of each round. You can find a Photo Tutorial about using waste yarn as a stitch marker HERE.
If you don't want to make a Magic Ring you can start each piece by making a chain of 2 and then work the first round into the second chain from the hook.
If you'd like to start with a Magic Ring but don’t know how, you can find a Photo Tutorial HERE.
The Eagle is made of multiple separate pieces sewn together. Unless otherwise stated, finish each piece by pulling the yarn through the last loop and leave a long tail for sewing. Any loose tails at the end can be easily woven in.
UK Crochet Terms - Abbreviations
The pattern below is written using UK Crochet Terms - they are NOT the same as US ones - please familiarise yourself with the UK terms to avoid your character’s shape distorting!
The “dc” abbreviation used in this pattern refers to UK double crochet. The equivalent stitch in US terms is single crochet - if you are used to US patterns you need to work single crochet everywhere this pattern says “dc”. If you work US dc (equivalent to UK Treble) the finished item will be elongated and the stuffing will show through.
This pattern also uses UK tr - treble crochet, the equivalent US stitch is US dc - double crochet and it uses UK htr - half treble crochet, the equivalent US stitch is US hdc - half double crochet.
The pattern below is written using UK Crochet Terms - they are NOT the same as US ones - please familiarise yourself with the UK terms to avoid your character’s shape distorting!
The “dc” abbreviation used in this pattern refers to UK double crochet. The equivalent stitch in US terms is single crochet - if you are used to US patterns you need to work single crochet everywhere this pattern says “dc”. If you work US dc (equivalent to UK Treble) the finished item will be elongated and the stuffing will show through.
This pattern also uses UK tr - treble crochet, the equivalent US stitch is US dc - double crochet and it uses UK htr - half treble crochet, the equivalent US stitch is US hdc - half double crochet.
Increasing and decreasing
You may use either standard increases and decreases in this pattern or, for a much neater finish, invisible ones. FLO = Front loop only.
Decrease - "dc2tog" in pattern.
Invisible decrease: Insert hook in FLO of the two stitches to be decreased, yrh, pull through both front loops, yrh, draw through two loops on hook.
Increase - "2 dc in next st" in pattern.
Invisible Increase: Work 1 dc in FLO of next st and 1 dc in both loops of same st.
You may use either standard increases and decreases in this pattern or, for a much neater finish, invisible ones. FLO = Front loop only.
Decrease - "dc2tog" in pattern.
Invisible decrease: Insert hook in FLO of the two stitches to be decreased, yrh, pull through both front loops, yrh, draw through two loops on hook.
Increase - "2 dc in next st" in pattern.
Invisible Increase: Work 1 dc in FLO of next st and 1 dc in both loops of same st.
Crochet Bald Eagle - Back
Body
Worked from the bottom of the Body upwards. Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 6: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnd 7: [5 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 42 sts
Rnd 8: [6 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 48 sts
Rnd 9: [7 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 54 sts
Rnd 10: Dc around.
Rnd 11: [8 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 60 sts
Rnds 12-17: Dc around.
Rnd 18: 18dc, [1 dc2tog, 6 dc] 5 times, 1 dc2tog. 54 sts
Rnd 19: Dc around.
Rnd 20: 1 dc2tog, 17 dc, [1 dc2tog, 5 dc] 5 times. 48 sts
Rnd 21: Dc around.
Rnd 22: 1 dc, 1 dc2tog, 16 dc, [1 dc2tog, 4 dc] 4 times, 1 dc2tog, 3 dc. 42 sts
Rnd 23: Dc around.
Rnd 24: 1 dc2tog, 3 dc, 1 dc2tog, 15 dc, [1 dc2tog, 3 dc] 4 times. 36 sts
Rnds 25-27: Dc around.
Rnd 28: [1 dc2tog, 4 dc] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnds 29-30: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Body to the Head once you've made all the parts.
Worked from the bottom of the Body upwards. Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 6: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnd 7: [5 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 42 sts
Rnd 8: [6 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 48 sts
Rnd 9: [7 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 54 sts
Rnd 10: Dc around.
Rnd 11: [8 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 60 sts
Rnds 12-17: Dc around.
Rnd 18: 18dc, [1 dc2tog, 6 dc] 5 times, 1 dc2tog. 54 sts
Rnd 19: Dc around.
Rnd 20: 1 dc2tog, 17 dc, [1 dc2tog, 5 dc] 5 times. 48 sts
Rnd 21: Dc around.
Rnd 22: 1 dc, 1 dc2tog, 16 dc, [1 dc2tog, 4 dc] 4 times, 1 dc2tog, 3 dc. 42 sts
Rnd 23: Dc around.
Rnd 24: 1 dc2tog, 3 dc, 1 dc2tog, 15 dc, [1 dc2tog, 3 dc] 4 times. 36 sts
Rnds 25-27: Dc around.
Rnd 28: [1 dc2tog, 4 dc] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnds 29-30: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Body to the Head once you've made all the parts.
Head
Made from the top down. Stuff at end. Chains and sl sts not included in stitch count for Rnds 20 & 21.
Rnd 1: With CC1 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [2 dc in next st, 2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc in next st, 4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: [2 dc in next st, 6 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 30 sts
Rnd 6: Dc around
Rnd 7: Dc around in BLO.
Rnds 8-10: Dc around.
Rnd 11: [2 dc in next st, 9 dc] 3 times. 33 sts
Rnds 12-14: Dc around.
Rnd 15: 2 dc, [2 dc in next st, 10 dc] twice, 2 dc in next st, 8 dc. 36 sts
Rnds 16-18: Dc around.
Rnd 19: Dc around in BLO.
Do not fasten off. To create the double scalloped trim at the bottom of the Head:
Rnd 20: Working in BLO for whole round: *[1 dc, 1 htr] in next st, [1 tr, 2ch, 1 tr] in next st, [1 htr, 1 dc] in next st, 1 sl st **; rep from * to ** eight more times. 54 sts
Rnd 21: Working in the unused FLO of Rnd 19 for whole round: [1 htr, 1 dc] in next st, 1 sl st, *[1 dc, 1 htr] in next st, [1 tr, 2 ch, 1 tr] in next st, [1 htr, 1 dc] in next st, 1 sl st **; rep from * to ** seven more times, [1 dc, 1 htr] in next st, [1 tr, 2 ch, 1 tr] in next st. 54 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Head to the Body once you've made all the parts.
Made from the top down. Stuff at end. Chains and sl sts not included in stitch count for Rnds 20 & 21.
Rnd 1: With CC1 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [2 dc in next st, 2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc in next st, 4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: [2 dc in next st, 6 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 30 sts
Rnd 6: Dc around
Rnd 7: Dc around in BLO.
Rnds 8-10: Dc around.
Rnd 11: [2 dc in next st, 9 dc] 3 times. 33 sts
Rnds 12-14: Dc around.
Rnd 15: 2 dc, [2 dc in next st, 10 dc] twice, 2 dc in next st, 8 dc. 36 sts
Rnds 16-18: Dc around.
Rnd 19: Dc around in BLO.
Do not fasten off. To create the double scalloped trim at the bottom of the Head:
Rnd 20: Working in BLO for whole round: *[1 dc, 1 htr] in next st, [1 tr, 2ch, 1 tr] in next st, [1 htr, 1 dc] in next st, 1 sl st **; rep from * to ** eight more times. 54 sts
Rnd 21: Working in the unused FLO of Rnd 19 for whole round: [1 htr, 1 dc] in next st, 1 sl st, *[1 dc, 1 htr] in next st, [1 tr, 2 ch, 1 tr] in next st, [1 htr, 1 dc] in next st, 1 sl st **; rep from * to ** seven more times, [1 dc, 1 htr] in next st, [1 tr, 2 ch, 1 tr] in next st. 54 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Head to the Body once you've made all the parts.
Crochet Bald Eagle - Wing Detail
Wings - make 2
Made from the "shoulder" down to the Wing Tips. The Wing Tips are different lengths. Do not stuff. Chains not included in the stitch count. This piece starts with an Oval Start - if you're not familiar with this technique, you can find a free Photo Tutorial showing the principle.
With MC, chain 7.
Rnd 1: Starting in the second ch from hook, 6 dc, 2 ch, rotating as you go, down the other side of the chain work 6 dc, 2 ch. 12 sts
Rnd 2: [6 dc, 3 dc in 2 ch-sp] twice. 18 sts
Rnds 3-6: Dc around.
Rnd 7: 2 dc in next st, 7 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice, 8 dc. 21 sts
Rnd 8: Dc around.
Rnd 9: 2 dc in next st, 9 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice, 9 dc. 24 sts
Do not fasten off. To work the first Wing Tip, continue on to Rnd 10a:
Rnd 10a: 4 dc, miss 16 st, 4 dc. 8 sts
Rnds 11a- 12a: Dc around. 8 sts
Rnd 13 a: [1 dc2tog, 2 dc] twice. 6 sts
Fasten off. Weave the yarn tail through FLO of last 6 sts. Pull to close hole. Weave in end.
To work second Wing Tip, attach MC yarn in the next unused st of Rnd 9.
Rnd 10b: 4 dc, miss 8 st, 4 dc. 8 sts
Rnds 11b-13b: Dc around. 8 sts
Rnd 14b: [1 dc2tog. 2dc] twice. 6 sts
Fasten off. Weave the yarn tail through FLO of last 6 sts. Pull to close hole. Weave in end.
To work third Wing Tip, attach MC yarn in the next unused st of Rnd 9.
Rnd 10 c: 1 dc in each of the remaining unused sts of Rnd 9. 8 sts
Rnd 11c-14c: Dc around. 8 sts
Rnd 15c: [1 dc2tog. 2dc] twice. 6 sts
Fasten off. Weave the yarn tail through FLO of last 6 sts. Pull to close hole. Weave in end. It is normal for there to be gaps between the wing tips where they join onto Rnd 9 - these can be sewn closed using a length of MC and a yarn needle.
Made from the "shoulder" down to the Wing Tips. The Wing Tips are different lengths. Do not stuff. Chains not included in the stitch count. This piece starts with an Oval Start - if you're not familiar with this technique, you can find a free Photo Tutorial showing the principle.
With MC, chain 7.
Rnd 1: Starting in the second ch from hook, 6 dc, 2 ch, rotating as you go, down the other side of the chain work 6 dc, 2 ch. 12 sts
Rnd 2: [6 dc, 3 dc in 2 ch-sp] twice. 18 sts
Rnds 3-6: Dc around.
Rnd 7: 2 dc in next st, 7 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice, 8 dc. 21 sts
Rnd 8: Dc around.
Rnd 9: 2 dc in next st, 9 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice, 9 dc. 24 sts
Do not fasten off. To work the first Wing Tip, continue on to Rnd 10a:
Rnd 10a: 4 dc, miss 16 st, 4 dc. 8 sts
Rnds 11a- 12a: Dc around. 8 sts
Rnd 13 a: [1 dc2tog, 2 dc] twice. 6 sts
Fasten off. Weave the yarn tail through FLO of last 6 sts. Pull to close hole. Weave in end.
To work second Wing Tip, attach MC yarn in the next unused st of Rnd 9.
Rnd 10b: 4 dc, miss 8 st, 4 dc. 8 sts
Rnds 11b-13b: Dc around. 8 sts
Rnd 14b: [1 dc2tog. 2dc] twice. 6 sts
Fasten off. Weave the yarn tail through FLO of last 6 sts. Pull to close hole. Weave in end.
To work third Wing Tip, attach MC yarn in the next unused st of Rnd 9.
Rnd 10 c: 1 dc in each of the remaining unused sts of Rnd 9. 8 sts
Rnd 11c-14c: Dc around. 8 sts
Rnd 15c: [1 dc2tog. 2dc] twice. 6 sts
Fasten off. Weave the yarn tail through FLO of last 6 sts. Pull to close hole. Weave in end. It is normal for there to be gaps between the wing tips where they join onto Rnd 9 - these can be sewn closed using a length of MC and a yarn needle.
Crochet Bald Eagle - Tail Detail
Tail
Made from the Body end of the Tail down to the Tail Tips. The Tail Tips are all the same length. Do not stuff. As with the Wings, if there are gaps between the Tail Tips, they can be sewn closed.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnds 3-4: Dc around.
Rnd 5: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 6: Dc around.
Rnd 7: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 8: Dc around.
Do not fasten off. To work the first Tail Tip, continue on to Rnd 9a.
Rnd 9a: 4 dc, miss 16 st, 4 dc. 8 sts
Rnd 10a: Dc around. 8 sts
Rnd 11a: [2 dc in next st, 3 dc] twice. 10 sts
Change to CC1.
Rnds 12a-13a: Dc around. 10 sts
Rnd 14a: 5 dc2tog. 5 sts
Fasten off. Weave the yarn tail through FLO of last 5 sts. Pull to close hole. Weave in end.
To work second Tail Tip, attach MC yarn in the next unused st of Rnd 8.
Rnd 9b: 4 dc, miss 8 sts, 4 dc. 8 sts
Rnd 10b: Dc around. 8 sts
Rnd 11b: [2 dc in next st, 3 dc] twice. 10 sts
Change to CC1.
Rnds 12b-13b: Dc around. 10 sts
Rnd 14b: 5 dc2tog. 5 sts
Fasten off. Weave the yarn tail through FLO of last 5 sts. Pull to close hole. Weave in end.
To work third Tail Tip, attach MC yarn in the next unused st of Rnd 8.
Rnd 9c: 1 dc in each of the remaining unused sts of Rnd 8. 8 sts
Rnd 10c: Dc around. 8 sts
Rnd 11c: [2 dc in next st, 3 dc] twice. 10 sts
Change to CC1.
Rnds 12c-13c: Dc around. 10 sts
Rnd 14c: 5 dc2tog. 5 sts
Fasten off. Weave the yarn tail through FLO of last 5 sts. Pull to close hole. Weave in end.
Made from the Body end of the Tail down to the Tail Tips. The Tail Tips are all the same length. Do not stuff. As with the Wings, if there are gaps between the Tail Tips, they can be sewn closed.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnds 3-4: Dc around.
Rnd 5: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 6: Dc around.
Rnd 7: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 8: Dc around.
Do not fasten off. To work the first Tail Tip, continue on to Rnd 9a.
Rnd 9a: 4 dc, miss 16 st, 4 dc. 8 sts
Rnd 10a: Dc around. 8 sts
Rnd 11a: [2 dc in next st, 3 dc] twice. 10 sts
Change to CC1.
Rnds 12a-13a: Dc around. 10 sts
Rnd 14a: 5 dc2tog. 5 sts
Fasten off. Weave the yarn tail through FLO of last 5 sts. Pull to close hole. Weave in end.
To work second Tail Tip, attach MC yarn in the next unused st of Rnd 8.
Rnd 9b: 4 dc, miss 8 sts, 4 dc. 8 sts
Rnd 10b: Dc around. 8 sts
Rnd 11b: [2 dc in next st, 3 dc] twice. 10 sts
Change to CC1.
Rnds 12b-13b: Dc around. 10 sts
Rnd 14b: 5 dc2tog. 5 sts
Fasten off. Weave the yarn tail through FLO of last 5 sts. Pull to close hole. Weave in end.
To work third Tail Tip, attach MC yarn in the next unused st of Rnd 8.
Rnd 9c: 1 dc in each of the remaining unused sts of Rnd 8. 8 sts
Rnd 10c: Dc around. 8 sts
Rnd 11c: [2 dc in next st, 3 dc] twice. 10 sts
Change to CC1.
Rnds 12c-13c: Dc around. 10 sts
Rnd 14c: 5 dc2tog. 5 sts
Fasten off. Weave the yarn tail through FLO of last 5 sts. Pull to close hole. Weave in end.
Crochet Bald Eagle - Feet
Feet - make 2
Worked from back of foot to front. Stuff lightly as you go.
Rnd 1: With CC2 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnds 2-3: Dc around.
Rnd 4: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 5: *[2 dc in next st] three times, 3 dc; rep from * once more. 18 sts
Rnds 6-7: Dc around.
Do not fasten off. To work first Toe, continue on to Rnd 8a.
Rnd 8a: 6 dc, miss 12 sts. 6 sts
Rnds 9a-11a: Dc around.
Finish stuffing this Toe before you work the next round.
Rnd 12a: 3 dc2tog. 3 sts
Fasten off. Weave the yarn tail through FLO of last 3 sts. Pull to close hole. Weave in end.
To work second Toe, attach CC2 yarn in next unused st of Rnd 7.
Rnd 8b: 3 dc, miss 6 st, 3 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 9b-11b: Dc around.
Finish stuffing this Toe before you work the next round.
Rnd 12b: 3 dc2tog. 3 sts
Fasten off. Weave the yarn tail through FLO of last 3 sts. Pull to close hole. Weave in end.
To work third Toe, attach CC2 yarn in next unused st of Rnd 7.
Rnd 8c: 1 dc in each of the remaining unused sts of Rnd 7. 6 sts
Rnd 9c-11c: Dc around.
Finish stuffing this Toe before you work the next round.
Rnd 12c: 3 dc2tog. 3 sts
Fasten off. Weave the yarn tail through FLO of last 3 sts. Pull to close hole. Weave in end. It is normal for there to be gaps between the Toes where they join onto Rnd 7 - these can be sewn closed using a length of CC2 and a yarn needle.
Worked from back of foot to front. Stuff lightly as you go.
Rnd 1: With CC2 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnds 2-3: Dc around.
Rnd 4: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 5: *[2 dc in next st] three times, 3 dc; rep from * once more. 18 sts
Rnds 6-7: Dc around.
Do not fasten off. To work first Toe, continue on to Rnd 8a.
Rnd 8a: 6 dc, miss 12 sts. 6 sts
Rnds 9a-11a: Dc around.
Finish stuffing this Toe before you work the next round.
Rnd 12a: 3 dc2tog. 3 sts
Fasten off. Weave the yarn tail through FLO of last 3 sts. Pull to close hole. Weave in end.
To work second Toe, attach CC2 yarn in next unused st of Rnd 7.
Rnd 8b: 3 dc, miss 6 st, 3 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 9b-11b: Dc around.
Finish stuffing this Toe before you work the next round.
Rnd 12b: 3 dc2tog. 3 sts
Fasten off. Weave the yarn tail through FLO of last 3 sts. Pull to close hole. Weave in end.
To work third Toe, attach CC2 yarn in next unused st of Rnd 7.
Rnd 8c: 1 dc in each of the remaining unused sts of Rnd 7. 6 sts
Rnd 9c-11c: Dc around.
Finish stuffing this Toe before you work the next round.
Rnd 12c: 3 dc2tog. 3 sts
Fasten off. Weave the yarn tail through FLO of last 3 sts. Pull to close hole. Weave in end. It is normal for there to be gaps between the Toes where they join onto Rnd 7 - these can be sewn closed using a length of CC2 and a yarn needle.
Crochet Bald Eagle - Leg Detail
Legs - make 2
Made from the "ankle" upwards. Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With CC2 and working into a magic ring, 9 dc. 9 sts
Rnd 2: Dc around in BLO.
Rnd 3: Dc around.
Rnd 4: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 6 sts
Change to MC.
Rnd 5: Working in FLO, 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 6: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnds7- 8: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Leg to the Body once you've made all the parts.
Made from the "ankle" upwards. Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With CC2 and working into a magic ring, 9 dc. 9 sts
Rnd 2: Dc around in BLO.
Rnd 3: Dc around.
Rnd 4: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 6 sts
Change to MC.
Rnd 5: Working in FLO, 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 6: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnds7- 8: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Leg to the Body once you've made all the parts.
Crochet Bald Eagle - Beak Detail
Beak
Made from the tip of the Beak back towards the Head. The increases and decreases create the curve of the Beak. Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With CC2 and working into a magic ring, 4 dc. 4 sts
Rnd 2: [2 dc in next st] twice, 2 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 3: 1 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice, 3 dc. 8 sts
Rnd 4: 2 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice, 4 dc. 10 sts
Rnd 5: 3 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice, 5 dc. 12 sts
Rnd 6: 1 dc2tog, 3 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice, 3 dc, 1 dc2tog. 12 sts
Rnd 7: 5 dc, [2 dc in next st] 3 times, 4 dc. 15 sts
Rnd 8: 1 dc2tog, 3 dc, [2 dc in next st] 3 times, 3 dc, 2 dc2tog. 15 sts
Rnds 9-10: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Beak to the Head once you've made all the parts.
Made from the tip of the Beak back towards the Head. The increases and decreases create the curve of the Beak. Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With CC2 and working into a magic ring, 4 dc. 4 sts
Rnd 2: [2 dc in next st] twice, 2 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 3: 1 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice, 3 dc. 8 sts
Rnd 4: 2 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice, 4 dc. 10 sts
Rnd 5: 3 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice, 5 dc. 12 sts
Rnd 6: 1 dc2tog, 3 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice, 3 dc, 1 dc2tog. 12 sts
Rnd 7: 5 dc, [2 dc in next st] 3 times, 4 dc. 15 sts
Rnd 8: 1 dc2tog, 3 dc, [2 dc in next st] 3 times, 3 dc, 2 dc2tog. 15 sts
Rnds 9-10: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Beak to the Head once you've made all the parts.
Eyes - make 2
Rnd 1: With CC3 and working into a magic ring, 4 dc, sl st in beg st to join. 4 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Eye to the Head once you've made all the parts.
Rnd 1: With CC3 and working into a magic ring, 4 dc, sl st in beg st to join. 4 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Eye to the Head once you've made all the parts.
Crochet Bald Eagle - Top of Head "Curved Triangle"
Making Up
Using the photographs as a guide, pin the pieces together before sewing, checking from all angles to make sure you’re happy with the positioning, then use the long yarn tails or a length of yarn with a yarn needle to stitch the pieces together.
There's a Photo Tutorial about sewing Amigurumi parts together seamlessly HERE.
Looking at the Body, the flatter side is the Eagle's chest and the more rounded curvy side is his bottom.
Before you start positioning the pieces, you may find it helpful to insert a line of pins running down the front centre line of the Body, taking them under the base and up the back - this will help you to position everything else evenly in relation to the central line. Remove any pins that are in the way of the pieces you are attaching as you go.
If the previous paragraph has confused you, there's a Photo Tutorial about using Pin Lines to help position amigurumi parts HERE.
Looking down on the top of the Eagle's Head you will see it looks like a curved triangle with 3 corners - see the image above. One of these points should be facing forward, lined up with the centre line of the Eagle's chest. Sew the stuffed Head onto the top of the Body.
Sew the Beak onto the front of the Head, its bottom edge should sit approx 3 rounds above the upper scalloped edge of the Head.
Sew the Eyes in place either side of the Beak - the top of the Eyes should be sitting roughly in line with the top of the Beak.
Sew the Wings to either side of the Body, making sure the longest Wing Tip is at the top of the Wing on both sides, and that the three Wing Tips are facing to the back of the Body. The top of the Wings should sit approx 5 rounds below the bottom of the Head. Only sew through the front curve of each Wing to attach it to the Body leaving the rest of the Wing unattached.
Sew the Tail to the back of the Body, attaching the top of it only. The top should sit approx in line with Rnd 14 of the Body, counting from the bottom up.
Sew the bottom of the Legs to the top of the Feet. Making sure the Toes are facing forwards, sew the top of the Legs to the base of the Body.
Using the photographs as a guide, pin the pieces together before sewing, checking from all angles to make sure you’re happy with the positioning, then use the long yarn tails or a length of yarn with a yarn needle to stitch the pieces together.
There's a Photo Tutorial about sewing Amigurumi parts together seamlessly HERE.
Looking at the Body, the flatter side is the Eagle's chest and the more rounded curvy side is his bottom.
Before you start positioning the pieces, you may find it helpful to insert a line of pins running down the front centre line of the Body, taking them under the base and up the back - this will help you to position everything else evenly in relation to the central line. Remove any pins that are in the way of the pieces you are attaching as you go.
If the previous paragraph has confused you, there's a Photo Tutorial about using Pin Lines to help position amigurumi parts HERE.
Looking down on the top of the Eagle's Head you will see it looks like a curved triangle with 3 corners - see the image above. One of these points should be facing forward, lined up with the centre line of the Eagle's chest. Sew the stuffed Head onto the top of the Body.
Sew the Beak onto the front of the Head, its bottom edge should sit approx 3 rounds above the upper scalloped edge of the Head.
Sew the Eyes in place either side of the Beak - the top of the Eyes should be sitting roughly in line with the top of the Beak.
Sew the Wings to either side of the Body, making sure the longest Wing Tip is at the top of the Wing on both sides, and that the three Wing Tips are facing to the back of the Body. The top of the Wings should sit approx 5 rounds below the bottom of the Head. Only sew through the front curve of each Wing to attach it to the Body leaving the rest of the Wing unattached.
Sew the Tail to the back of the Body, attaching the top of it only. The top should sit approx in line with Rnd 14 of the Body, counting from the bottom up.
Sew the bottom of the Legs to the top of the Feet. Making sure the Toes are facing forwards, sew the top of the Legs to the base of the Body.
Crochet Bald Eagle - Chest Detail
Embroidered Details
Using the photos as a guide, with a yarn needle, embroider the following:
With CC1, embroider a single stitch highlight on each Eye and the V stitch feather detail on the Eagle's chest..
With CC3 embroider the smile on the Beak and one Claw on each of the Toes.
All done!
Using the photos as a guide, with a yarn needle, embroider the following:
With CC1, embroider a single stitch highlight on each Eye and the V stitch feather detail on the Eagle's chest..
With CC3 embroider the smile on the Beak and one Claw on each of the Toes.
All done!
Terms of Use
- I am happy for you to donate, gift or sell any of the my crochet chums you make if you are an individual crafter - please credit mycrochetchums.com as the designer.
- If you do wish to sell your my crochet chums, it is your responsibility to ensure that the finished item complies with the relevant toy legislation in your country.
- Please be sure to use toy grade stuffing and do not add buttons, bells, ribbons etc that could be a danger to small children.
- The patterns are copyright protected and are not for commercial use. They cannot be sold, transmitted, distributed or reproduced in any form or by any means. I’ve worked hard to create the designs - please don’t sell my patterns - it’s just plain mean!
About mycrochetchums
I started mycrochetchums at the end of 2020 to give me something to focus on during lockdown and to make creative use of a box of Amigurumi Yarn that was an impulse purchase I was feeling guilty about!
I’m loving creating these cute characters and sharpening my tech skills in the process as I wrangle with managing a website and social media.
Check out the mycrochetchums Facebook page - drop me a message there if you have any feedback about the pattern or would like to share a picture of the end result.
You can also find me on Instagram @mycrochetchums.
If you have any questions about any of my patterns (or any other ami you may be working on) please email me at: [email protected] - I’ll do my best to help!
Happy Crocheting!
Pia x
©2023PIA SIMPSON/ MYCROCHETCHUMS
I started mycrochetchums at the end of 2020 to give me something to focus on during lockdown and to make creative use of a box of Amigurumi Yarn that was an impulse purchase I was feeling guilty about!
I’m loving creating these cute characters and sharpening my tech skills in the process as I wrangle with managing a website and social media.
Check out the mycrochetchums Facebook page - drop me a message there if you have any feedback about the pattern or would like to share a picture of the end result.
You can also find me on Instagram @mycrochetchums.
If you have any questions about any of my patterns (or any other ami you may be working on) please email me at: [email protected] - I’ll do my best to help!
Happy Crocheting!
Pia x
©2023PIA SIMPSON/ MYCROCHETCHUMS
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