#stashbusterchums - No 43 - Toucan
Yarn
Scheepjes Catona 4ply, 100% Cotton. 125m per 50g
MC: 30g approx of Jet Black (110) for Body, Wings, Tail, Head Tuft, Pupils and Mouth.
CC1: 6g approx of Yellow Gold (208) for Beak.
CC2: 6g approx of Tangerine (281) for Beak and Wings.
CC3: 8g approx of Watermelon (252) for Beak, Cheek Spot and Tail.
CC4:10 g approx of Vivid Blue (146) for Eyes and Feet.
CC5: 5g approx of Snow White (106) for Face Patch and Eye Highlights.
A cotton yarn works well for Ami as it gives good stitch definition and creates a firm structure so body parts hold their shape well. Catona is a relatively thick 4 ply (US: Sport) - you can substitute a DK Cotton (US: DK/Light Worsted) with a similar amount of meters per 50g.
Scheepjes Catona 4ply, 100% Cotton. 125m per 50g
MC: 30g approx of Jet Black (110) for Body, Wings, Tail, Head Tuft, Pupils and Mouth.
CC1: 6g approx of Yellow Gold (208) for Beak.
CC2: 6g approx of Tangerine (281) for Beak and Wings.
CC3: 8g approx of Watermelon (252) for Beak, Cheek Spot and Tail.
CC4:10 g approx of Vivid Blue (146) for Eyes and Feet.
CC5: 5g approx of Snow White (106) for Face Patch and Eye Highlights.
A cotton yarn works well for Ami as it gives good stitch definition and creates a firm structure so body parts hold their shape well. Catona is a relatively thick 4 ply (US: Sport) - you can substitute a DK Cotton (US: DK/Light Worsted) with a similar amount of meters per 50g.
Hook
3 mm
3 mm
Tension
24 sts x 27 rows = 10cm measured over dc using 3mm hook.
Tension is not critical for this project but stitches should be tight enough to avoid stuffing showing through.
24 sts x 27 rows = 10cm measured over dc using 3mm hook.
Tension is not critical for this project but stitches should be tight enough to avoid stuffing showing through.
Other Supplies
Yarn needle, toy stuffing, stitch marker/waste yarn, scissors.
Yarn needle, toy stuffing, stitch marker/waste yarn, scissors.
Size
Approx 12.5 cm (5 in) tall.
Approx 12.5 cm (5 in) tall.
Pattern Notes
Unless otherwise specified this pattern is worked in the amigurumi style, in a continuous spiral without slip stitching or turning chains.
Use a stitch marker or waste yarn to keep track of the first stitch of each round.
If you do not want to make a Magic Ring you can start each piece by making a chain of 2 and then work the first round into the second chain from the hook.
If you would like to start with a Magic Ring but don’t know how, you can find a Photo Tutorial HERE.
The Toucan is made of multiple separate pieces sewn together. Unless otherwise stated, finish each piece by pulling the yarn through the last loop and leave a long tail for sewing. Any loose tails at the end can be easily woven in.
Unless otherwise specified this pattern is worked in the amigurumi style, in a continuous spiral without slip stitching or turning chains.
Use a stitch marker or waste yarn to keep track of the first stitch of each round.
If you do not want to make a Magic Ring you can start each piece by making a chain of 2 and then work the first round into the second chain from the hook.
If you would like to start with a Magic Ring but don’t know how, you can find a Photo Tutorial HERE.
The Toucan is made of multiple separate pieces sewn together. Unless otherwise stated, finish each piece by pulling the yarn through the last loop and leave a long tail for sewing. Any loose tails at the end can be easily woven in.
UK Crochet Terms - Abbreviations
This pattern is written using UK Crochet Terms - they are NOT the same as US ones - please familiarise yourself with the UK terms to avoid your character’s shape distorting!
The “dc” abbreviation used in this pattern refers to UK double crochet. The equivalent stitch in US terms is single crochet - if you are used to US patterns you need to work single crochet everywhere this pattern says “dc”. If you work US dc (equivalent to UK Treble) the finished item will be elongated and the stuffing will show through.
This pattern also uses UK htr - half treble - the equivalent US stitch is hdc - half double crochet.
If you are used to working in US Crochet Terms you can find a conversion chart HERE.
If you are unfamiliar with any of the terms used in this pattern, you can find a chart of the UK Crochet terms used HERE.
This pattern is written using UK Crochet Terms - they are NOT the same as US ones - please familiarise yourself with the UK terms to avoid your character’s shape distorting!
The “dc” abbreviation used in this pattern refers to UK double crochet. The equivalent stitch in US terms is single crochet - if you are used to US patterns you need to work single crochet everywhere this pattern says “dc”. If you work US dc (equivalent to UK Treble) the finished item will be elongated and the stuffing will show through.
This pattern also uses UK htr - half treble - the equivalent US stitch is hdc - half double crochet.
If you are used to working in US Crochet Terms you can find a conversion chart HERE.
If you are unfamiliar with any of the terms used in this pattern, you can find a chart of the UK Crochet terms used HERE.
Increasing and decreasing
The “invisible” techniques below are recommended to give your amigurumi a neat finish:
Invisible Increase: Work 1 dc in FLO of next st and 1 dc in both loops of same st.
Invisible decrease: Insert hook in FLO of the two stitches to be decreased, yrh, pull through both front loops, yrh, draw through two loops on hook.
The “invisible” techniques below are recommended to give your amigurumi a neat finish:
Invisible Increase: Work 1 dc in FLO of next st and 1 dc in both loops of same st.
Invisible decrease: Insert hook in FLO of the two stitches to be decreased, yrh, pull through both front loops, yrh, draw through two loops on hook.
Toucan - front right
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Toucan - back left
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Body
Worked from the bottom upwards. Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 6: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnd 7: [5 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 42 sts
Rnd 8: [6 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 48 sts
Rnds 9-10: Dc around.
Rnd 11: [6 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 42 sts
Rnd 12: Dc around.
Rnd 13: [5 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnds 14-15: Dc around.
Rnd 16: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnds 17-20: Dc around.
Rnd 21: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnds 22-27: Dc around.
Rnd 28: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 29: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnd 30: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Fasten off.
Worked from the bottom upwards. Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 6: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnd 7: [5 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 42 sts
Rnd 8: [6 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 48 sts
Rnds 9-10: Dc around.
Rnd 11: [6 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 42 sts
Rnd 12: Dc around.
Rnd 13: [5 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnds 14-15: Dc around.
Rnd 16: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnds 17-20: Dc around.
Rnd 21: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnds 22-27: Dc around.
Rnd 28: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 29: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnd 30: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Fasten off.
Beak
Worked flat in turned rows from bottom of beak to tip and stitched into shape once all the rows are complete. The chains are not included in the stitch count.
With CC3, chain 17.
Row 1: Starting in 2nd ch from hook, 16 dc. Turn. 16 sts
Rows 2-3: 1 ch, dc across. Turn.
Change to CC2.
Rows 4-6: Rep Row 2.
Change to CC1.
Rows 7-12: Rep Row 2.
To work one side of the beak tip:
Row 13: 1 ch, 8 dc, leave rest of row unworked. Turn. 8 sts
Row 14: 1 ch, 1 dc2tog, 5 dc, 2 dc in next st. Turn. 8 sts
Row 15: 1 ch, 2 dc in next st, 5 dc, 1 dc2tog. Turn. 8 sts
Row 16: Rep Row 14.
Row 17: 1 ch, 2 dc in next st, 3 dc, 2 dc2tog. 7 sts
Fasten off.
To work the other side of the beak tip:
Join the yarn in the next unused st of Row 12.
Row 18: 1 ch, 8 dc. Turn. 8 sts
Row 19: 1 ch, 2 dc in next st, 5 dc, 1 dc2tog. Turn. 8 sts
Row 20: 1 ch, 1 dc2tog, 5 dc, 2 dc in next st. Turn. 8 sts
Row 21: Rep Row 19.
Row 22: 1 ch, 2 dc2tog, 3 dc, 2 dc in next st. 7 sts
Fasten off. Fold the piece in half, lining up the two halves of the beak tip. Use the appropriate coloured yarn to join the two long sides of the piece creating a tube and working round the tip of the beak to seam the top part of the two sides of the beak tip. Stuff the beak.
Worked flat in turned rows from bottom of beak to tip and stitched into shape once all the rows are complete. The chains are not included in the stitch count.
With CC3, chain 17.
Row 1: Starting in 2nd ch from hook, 16 dc. Turn. 16 sts
Rows 2-3: 1 ch, dc across. Turn.
Change to CC2.
Rows 4-6: Rep Row 2.
Change to CC1.
Rows 7-12: Rep Row 2.
To work one side of the beak tip:
Row 13: 1 ch, 8 dc, leave rest of row unworked. Turn. 8 sts
Row 14: 1 ch, 1 dc2tog, 5 dc, 2 dc in next st. Turn. 8 sts
Row 15: 1 ch, 2 dc in next st, 5 dc, 1 dc2tog. Turn. 8 sts
Row 16: Rep Row 14.
Row 17: 1 ch, 2 dc in next st, 3 dc, 2 dc2tog. 7 sts
Fasten off.
To work the other side of the beak tip:
Join the yarn in the next unused st of Row 12.
Row 18: 1 ch, 8 dc. Turn. 8 sts
Row 19: 1 ch, 2 dc in next st, 5 dc, 1 dc2tog. Turn. 8 sts
Row 20: 1 ch, 1 dc2tog, 5 dc, 2 dc in next st. Turn. 8 sts
Row 21: Rep Row 19.
Row 22: 1 ch, 2 dc2tog, 3 dc, 2 dc in next st. 7 sts
Fasten off. Fold the piece in half, lining up the two halves of the beak tip. Use the appropriate coloured yarn to join the two long sides of the piece creating a tube and working round the tip of the beak to seam the top part of the two sides of the beak tip. Stuff the beak.
Face Patch
With CC5, chain 9.
Rnd 1: Starting in the 2nd ch from hook, 8 dc, 2 ch, rotating as you go, work in the other side of the chain, 8 dc, 2 ch. 16 sts
Rnd 2: [8 dc, 4 dc in 2 ch-sp] twice. 24 sts
Rnd 3: * 8 dc, [2 dc in next st] 4 times**; rep from * to ** once more. 32 sts
Rnd 4: 2 dc in next st, *9 dc, [2 dc in next st, 1 dc] 3 times**, 2 dc in next st; rep from * to ** once more. 40 sts
Fasten off.
With CC5, chain 9.
Rnd 1: Starting in the 2nd ch from hook, 8 dc, 2 ch, rotating as you go, work in the other side of the chain, 8 dc, 2 ch. 16 sts
Rnd 2: [8 dc, 4 dc in 2 ch-sp] twice. 24 sts
Rnd 3: * 8 dc, [2 dc in next st] 4 times**; rep from * to ** once more. 32 sts
Rnd 4: 2 dc in next st, *9 dc, [2 dc in next st, 1 dc] 3 times**, 2 dc in next st; rep from * to ** once more. 40 sts
Fasten off.
Eyes - make 2
Rnd 1: With CC4 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around, sl st in beg dc to join. 12 sts
Fasten off.
Rnd 1: With CC4 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around, sl st in beg dc to join. 12 sts
Fasten off.
Pupils - make 2
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc, sl st in first dc to join. 6 sts
Fasten off.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc, sl st in first dc to join. 6 sts
Fasten off.
Cheek Spot - make 2
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 9 sts
Fasten off.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 9 sts
Fasten off.
Wings - make 2
Do not stuff
Rnd 1: With CC2 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: Dc around.
Rnd 3: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 4: Dc around.
Rnd 5: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Change to MC.
Rnds 6-8: Dc around.
Rnd 9: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnd 10: Dc around.
Rnd 11: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Fasten off.
Do not stuff
Rnd 1: With CC2 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: Dc around.
Rnd 3: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 4: Dc around.
Rnd 5: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Change to MC.
Rnds 6-8: Dc around.
Rnd 9: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnd 10: Dc around.
Rnd 11: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Fasten off.
Tail.
Do not stuff.
With MC, chain 4.
Rnd 1: Starting in the 2nd ch from hook, 3 dc, 2 ch, rotating as you go, work in the other side of the chain, 3 dc, 2 ch. 6 sts
Rnd 2: [3 dc, 1 dc in 2 ch-sp} twice. 8 sts
Rnd 3: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] twice. 10 sts
Rnd 4: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] twice. 12 sts
Rnd 5: Dc around.
Rnd 6: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 7: Dc around.
Rnd 8: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Change to CC3.
Rnd 9: Dc around.
Rnd 10: *2sl st, [1 dc, 1 htr] in next st, [1 htr, 1 dc] in next st**; rep from * to ** 5 more times. 30 sts
Fasten off. Flatten the piece, lining the scallops up and use the yarn tail and a yarn needle to stitch across the top of the scalloped edge, through both layers, to close the open end.
Do not stuff.
With MC, chain 4.
Rnd 1: Starting in the 2nd ch from hook, 3 dc, 2 ch, rotating as you go, work in the other side of the chain, 3 dc, 2 ch. 6 sts
Rnd 2: [3 dc, 1 dc in 2 ch-sp} twice. 8 sts
Rnd 3: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] twice. 10 sts
Rnd 4: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] twice. 12 sts
Rnd 5: Dc around.
Rnd 6: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 7: Dc around.
Rnd 8: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Change to CC3.
Rnd 9: Dc around.
Rnd 10: *2sl st, [1 dc, 1 htr] in next st, [1 htr, 1 dc] in next st**; rep from * to ** 5 more times. 30 sts
Fasten off. Flatten the piece, lining the scallops up and use the yarn tail and a yarn needle to stitch across the top of the scalloped edge, through both layers, to close the open end.
Toes - make 6
Each foot is made from three separate toes which are then sewn together.
Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With CC4 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 6 sts
Rnds 4-5: Dc around.
Rnd 6: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] twice. 4 sts
Fasten off. For each foot, weave in yarn tails on two of the Toes and use the one on the third Toe to sew the three together at the narrow end.
Each foot is made from three separate toes which are then sewn together.
Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With CC4 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 6 sts
Rnds 4-5: Dc around.
Rnd 6: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] twice. 4 sts
Fasten off. For each foot, weave in yarn tails on two of the Toes and use the one on the third Toe to sew the three together at the narrow end.
Top Knot
Rnd 1: With MC, [5ch, starting in second ch from hook, 4 dc] 5 times. 20 sts
Sl st into first ch to join into a ring.
Fasten off.
Rnd 1: With MC, [5ch, starting in second ch from hook, 4 dc] 5 times. 20 sts
Sl st into first ch to join into a ring.
Fasten off.
Toucan - back
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Toucan - base
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Making Up
Using the photographs as a guide, pin the pieces together first, checking from all angles to make sure you’re happy with the positioning, then use the long yarn tails or a length of yarn with a yarn needle to stitch the pieces together.
Sew the Face Patch onto the Body with the top edge of it sitting approx 5 rounds down from the top of the Head.
Sew the Beak on top of the Face Patch making sure it is sitting centrally.
Sew the Eyes in place either side of the Beak.
Sew the Pupils on top of the eyes, off-set inwards.
Sew the Cheek Spot in place sitting over the edge of the Face Patch.
Sew the Wings in place below the Cheek Spot on either side.
Sew the two Feet to the bottom of the Body, attaching them roughly in line with Rnd 2 of the Body and facing forwards.
Sew the Tail in place, attaching it roughly in line with Rnd 5 of the Body.
Sew the Top Knot in place right on the top of the Body.
Using the photographs as a guide, pin the pieces together first, checking from all angles to make sure you’re happy with the positioning, then use the long yarn tails or a length of yarn with a yarn needle to stitch the pieces together.
Sew the Face Patch onto the Body with the top edge of it sitting approx 5 rounds down from the top of the Head.
Sew the Beak on top of the Face Patch making sure it is sitting centrally.
Sew the Eyes in place either side of the Beak.
Sew the Pupils on top of the eyes, off-set inwards.
Sew the Cheek Spot in place sitting over the edge of the Face Patch.
Sew the Wings in place below the Cheek Spot on either side.
Sew the two Feet to the bottom of the Body, attaching them roughly in line with Rnd 2 of the Body and facing forwards.
Sew the Tail in place, attaching it roughly in line with Rnd 5 of the Body.
Sew the Top Knot in place right on the top of the Body.
Toucan - left side/face detail
Embroidered Details
Using the photo above as a guide, with a yarn needle, embroider the following details:
Single stitch highlight on each Pupil using CC5.
The smile down either side of the Beak using MC.
All done!
Using the photo above as a guide, with a yarn needle, embroider the following details:
Single stitch highlight on each Pupil using CC5.
The smile down either side of the Beak using MC.
All done!
Terms of Use
I am happy for you to donate, gift or sell any of the my crochet chums you make if you are an individual crafter - please credit mycrochetchums.com as the designer.
If you do wish to sell your my crochet chums, it is your responsibility to ensure that the finished item complies with the relevant toy legislation in your country.
Please be sure to use toy grade stuffing and do not add buttons, bells, ribbons etc that could be a danger to small children.
The patterns are copyright protected and are not for commercial use. They cannot be sold, transmitted, distributed or reproduced in any form or by any means. I’ve worked hard to create the designs - please don’t sell my patterns - it’s just plain mean!
I am happy for you to donate, gift or sell any of the my crochet chums you make if you are an individual crafter - please credit mycrochetchums.com as the designer.
If you do wish to sell your my crochet chums, it is your responsibility to ensure that the finished item complies with the relevant toy legislation in your country.
Please be sure to use toy grade stuffing and do not add buttons, bells, ribbons etc that could be a danger to small children.
The patterns are copyright protected and are not for commercial use. They cannot be sold, transmitted, distributed or reproduced in any form or by any means. I’ve worked hard to create the designs - please don’t sell my patterns - it’s just plain mean!
About mycrochetchums
I started mycrochetchums at the end of 2020 to give me something to focus on during lockdown and to make creative use of a box of Amigurumi Yarn that was an impulse purchase I was feeling guilty about!
I’m loving creating these cute characters and sharpening my tech skills in the process as I wrangle with managing a website and social media.
Check out the mycrochetchums Facebook page - drop me a message there if you have any feedback about the pattern or would like to share a picture of the end result.
You can also find me on Instagram @mycrochetchums.
If you have any questions about any of my patterns (or any other ami you may be working on) please email me at: [email protected] - I’ll do my best to help!
Happy Crocheting!
Pia x
©PIA SIMPSON/ MYCROCHETCHUMS 2021
I started mycrochetchums at the end of 2020 to give me something to focus on during lockdown and to make creative use of a box of Amigurumi Yarn that was an impulse purchase I was feeling guilty about!
I’m loving creating these cute characters and sharpening my tech skills in the process as I wrangle with managing a website and social media.
Check out the mycrochetchums Facebook page - drop me a message there if you have any feedback about the pattern or would like to share a picture of the end result.
You can also find me on Instagram @mycrochetchums.
If you have any questions about any of my patterns (or any other ami you may be working on) please email me at: [email protected] - I’ll do my best to help!
Happy Crocheting!
Pia x
©PIA SIMPSON/ MYCROCHETCHUMS 2021
