Free Amigurumi Crochet Dodo Pattern
Crochet your own Dodo!
Yarn
Scheepjes Catona. 100% Cotton. 125m per 50g
MC: 40g approx of Tropic (253) for Head and Body, Thighs, Tail, Head Tuft and Wings.
CC1: 5g approx of Bridal White (105) for Face, Eye Highlight and Chest Detail..
CC2: 15g approx of Sweet Orange (411) for Feet and Beak.
CC3: 10g approx of Crystalline (385) for Wings and Tail.
CC4: Small amount of Jet Black (110) for Eyes and Mouth Detail.
A cotton yarn works well for Ami as it gives good stitch definition and creates a firm structure so body parts hold their shape well. Scheepjes Catona is a relatively thick 4 ply (US: Sport) - you can substitute a DK Cotton (US: DK/Light Worsted) with a similar amount of metres per 50g.
You can scale this pattern up or down by altering the yarn and hook. Use a heavier weight yarn and larger hook for a bigger Dodo and a lighter weight yarn and smaller hook for a little one.
To read more about scaling an Amigurumi pattern up or down, check out my guide HERE
Scheepjes Catona. 100% Cotton. 125m per 50g
MC: 40g approx of Tropic (253) for Head and Body, Thighs, Tail, Head Tuft and Wings.
CC1: 5g approx of Bridal White (105) for Face, Eye Highlight and Chest Detail..
CC2: 15g approx of Sweet Orange (411) for Feet and Beak.
CC3: 10g approx of Crystalline (385) for Wings and Tail.
CC4: Small amount of Jet Black (110) for Eyes and Mouth Detail.
A cotton yarn works well for Ami as it gives good stitch definition and creates a firm structure so body parts hold their shape well. Scheepjes Catona is a relatively thick 4 ply (US: Sport) - you can substitute a DK Cotton (US: DK/Light Worsted) with a similar amount of metres per 50g.
You can scale this pattern up or down by altering the yarn and hook. Use a heavier weight yarn and larger hook for a bigger Dodo and a lighter weight yarn and smaller hook for a little one.
To read more about scaling an Amigurumi pattern up or down, check out my guide HERE
Hook
2 mm - for the yarn specified above.
2 mm - for the yarn specified above.
Other Supplies
Yarn needle, toy stuffing, stitch marker/waste yarn, pins and scissors.
Yarn needle, toy stuffing, stitch marker/waste yarn, pins and scissors.
Tension
27 st x 30 rows = 10 cm measured over UK dc using 2mm hook with Scheepjes Catona 4 ply cotton.
Tension is not critical for this project but stitches should be tight enough to avoid stuffing showing through.
To read more about checking Tension, have a look HERE.
27 st x 30 rows = 10 cm measured over UK dc using 2mm hook with Scheepjes Catona 4 ply cotton.
Tension is not critical for this project but stitches should be tight enough to avoid stuffing showing through.
To read more about checking Tension, have a look HERE.
Size
16 cm (6.25 in) approx from top to toe.
16 cm (6.25 in) approx from top to toe.
Pattern Notes
Unless otherwise specified this pattern is worked in the amigurumi style, in a continuous spiral without slip stitching or turning chains.
Use a stitch marker or waste yarn to keep track of the first stitch of each round.
You can find a Photo Tutorial about using waste yarn as a stitch marker HERE.
If you don't want to make a Magic Ring you can start each piece by making a chain of 2 and then work the first round into the second chain from the hook.
If you'd like to start with a Magic Ring but don’t know how, you can find a Photo Tutorial HERE.
The Dodo is made of multiple separate pieces sewn together. Unless otherwise stated, finish each piece by pulling the yarn through the last loop and leave a long tail for sewing. Any loose tails at the end can be easily woven in.
Unless otherwise specified this pattern is worked in the amigurumi style, in a continuous spiral without slip stitching or turning chains.
Use a stitch marker or waste yarn to keep track of the first stitch of each round.
You can find a Photo Tutorial about using waste yarn as a stitch marker HERE.
If you don't want to make a Magic Ring you can start each piece by making a chain of 2 and then work the first round into the second chain from the hook.
If you'd like to start with a Magic Ring but don’t know how, you can find a Photo Tutorial HERE.
The Dodo is made of multiple separate pieces sewn together. Unless otherwise stated, finish each piece by pulling the yarn through the last loop and leave a long tail for sewing. Any loose tails at the end can be easily woven in.
UK Crochet Terms - Abbreviations
This pattern is written using UK Crochet Terms - they are NOT the same as US ones - please familiarise yourself with the UK terms to avoid your character’s shape distorting!
The “dc” abbreviation used in this pattern refers to UK double crochet. The equivalent stitch in US terms is single crochet - if you are used to US patterns you need to work single crochet everywhere this pattern says “dc”. If you work US dc (equivalent to UK Treble) the finished item will be elongated and the stuffing will show through.
If you are used to working in US Crochet Terms you can find a conversion chart HERE.
If you are unfamiliar with any of the terms used in this pattern, you can find a chart of the UK Crochet terms used HERE.
This pattern is written using UK Crochet Terms - they are NOT the same as US ones - please familiarise yourself with the UK terms to avoid your character’s shape distorting!
The “dc” abbreviation used in this pattern refers to UK double crochet. The equivalent stitch in US terms is single crochet - if you are used to US patterns you need to work single crochet everywhere this pattern says “dc”. If you work US dc (equivalent to UK Treble) the finished item will be elongated and the stuffing will show through.
If you are used to working in US Crochet Terms you can find a conversion chart HERE.
If you are unfamiliar with any of the terms used in this pattern, you can find a chart of the UK Crochet terms used HERE.
Dodo - right side
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Dodo - left side
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Increasing and decreasing
You may use either standard increases and decreases in this pattern or, for a much neater finish, invisible ones. FLO = Front loop only.
Decrease - "dc2tog" in pattern.
Invisible decrease: Insert hook in FLO of the two stitches to be decreased, yrh, pull through both front loops, yrh, draw through two loops on hook.
Increase - "2 dc in next st" in pattern.
Invisible Increase: Work 1 dc in FLO of next st and 1 dc in both loops of same st.
You may use either standard increases and decreases in this pattern or, for a much neater finish, invisible ones. FLO = Front loop only.
Decrease - "dc2tog" in pattern.
Invisible decrease: Insert hook in FLO of the two stitches to be decreased, yrh, pull through both front loops, yrh, draw through two loops on hook.
Increase - "2 dc in next st" in pattern.
Invisible Increase: Work 1 dc in FLO of next st and 1 dc in both loops of same st.
Dodo - front view
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Dodo - rear view
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Body & Head
Worked from the bottom of the Body to the top of the Head. Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 6: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnd 7: [5 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 42 sts
Rnd 8: [6 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 48 sts
Rnd 9: [7 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 54 sts
Rnd 10: Dc around.
Rnd 11: [8 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 60 sts
Rnds 12-17: Dc around.
Rnd 18: 18 dc, [1 dc2tog, 6 dc] 5 times, 1 dc2tog. 54 sts
Rnd 19: Dc around.
Rnd 20: 1 dc2tog, 17 dc, [1 dc2tog, 5 dc] 5 times. 48 sts
Rnd 21: Dc around.
Rnd 22: 1 dc, 1 dc2tog, 16 dc, [1 dc2tog, 4 dc] 4 times, 1 dc2tog, 3 dc. 42 sts
Rnd 23: Dc around.
Rnd 24: 2 dc, 1 dc2tog, 15 dc, [1 dc2tog, 3 dc] 4 times, 1 dc2tog, 1 dc. 36 sts
Rnd 25: Dc around.
Rnd 26: 1 dc2tog, 2 dc, 1 dc2tog, 14 dc, [1 dc2tog, 2 dc] 4 times. 30 sts
Rnds 27-28: Dc around.
Rnd 29: [3dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 30: Dc around.
Rnd 31: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 32: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnd 33: [5 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 42 sts
Rnd 34: [6 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 48 sts
Rnds 35-40: Dc around.
Rnd 41: [6 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 42 sts
Rnd 42: Dc around.
Rnd 43: [5 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnd 44: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 45: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 46: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 47: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnd 48: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Fasten off. Weave yarn tail through FLO of last 6 sts and pull to close hole. Weave in end.
Worked from the bottom of the Body to the top of the Head. Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 6: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnd 7: [5 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 42 sts
Rnd 8: [6 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 48 sts
Rnd 9: [7 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 54 sts
Rnd 10: Dc around.
Rnd 11: [8 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 60 sts
Rnds 12-17: Dc around.
Rnd 18: 18 dc, [1 dc2tog, 6 dc] 5 times, 1 dc2tog. 54 sts
Rnd 19: Dc around.
Rnd 20: 1 dc2tog, 17 dc, [1 dc2tog, 5 dc] 5 times. 48 sts
Rnd 21: Dc around.
Rnd 22: 1 dc, 1 dc2tog, 16 dc, [1 dc2tog, 4 dc] 4 times, 1 dc2tog, 3 dc. 42 sts
Rnd 23: Dc around.
Rnd 24: 2 dc, 1 dc2tog, 15 dc, [1 dc2tog, 3 dc] 4 times, 1 dc2tog, 1 dc. 36 sts
Rnd 25: Dc around.
Rnd 26: 1 dc2tog, 2 dc, 1 dc2tog, 14 dc, [1 dc2tog, 2 dc] 4 times. 30 sts
Rnds 27-28: Dc around.
Rnd 29: [3dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 30: Dc around.
Rnd 31: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 32: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnd 33: [5 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 42 sts
Rnd 34: [6 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 48 sts
Rnds 35-40: Dc around.
Rnd 41: [6 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 42 sts
Rnd 42: Dc around.
Rnd 43: [5 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnd 44: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 45: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 46: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 47: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnd 48: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Fasten off. Weave yarn tail through FLO of last 6 sts and pull to close hole. Weave in end.
Nose & Face
Made from the end of the nose back towards the face. Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With CC1 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnds 4-6: Dc around.
Rnd 7: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 15 sts
Rnds 8-11: Dc around.
Rnd 12: 4 dc, [2 dc in next st, 1 dc] twice, 2 dc in next st, 6 dc. 18 sts
Rnd 13: 2 dc, [ 2 dc in next st, 1 dc] twice, 2 dc in next st, 2 dc, [2 dc in next st, 1 dc] twice, 2 dc in next st, 4 dc. 24 sts
Rnd 14: 3 dc, [2 dc in next st, 2 dc] 5 times, 2 dc in next st, 5 dc. 30 sts
Rnd 15: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnd 16: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Nose & Face to the Head once you've made all the parts.
Made from the end of the nose back towards the face. Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With CC1 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnds 4-6: Dc around.
Rnd 7: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 15 sts
Rnds 8-11: Dc around.
Rnd 12: 4 dc, [2 dc in next st, 1 dc] twice, 2 dc in next st, 6 dc. 18 sts
Rnd 13: 2 dc, [ 2 dc in next st, 1 dc] twice, 2 dc in next st, 2 dc, [2 dc in next st, 1 dc] twice, 2 dc in next st, 4 dc. 24 sts
Rnd 14: 3 dc, [2 dc in next st, 2 dc] 5 times, 2 dc in next st, 5 dc. 30 sts
Rnd 15: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnd 16: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Nose & Face to the Head once you've made all the parts.
Beak
Made from the tip of the beak towards the back. Starts with a Magic Ring but made with turned rows - don't worry, it'll become clear as you go! The turning chain at the start of each row is not counted in the stitch count.
Rnd 1: With CC2 and working into a magic ring, 3 dc. Turn. 3 sts (Don't pull the magic ring too tight - you'll work in it again in Rnd 8)
Row 2: 1 ch, [2 dc in next st] 3 times. Turn. 6 sts
Row 3: 1 ch, dc across. Turn. 6 sts
Row 4: 1 ch, 2 dc in next st, 4 dc, 2 dc in next st. Turn. 8 sts
Row 5: 1 ch, 2 dc in next st, 6 dc, 2 dc in next st. Turn. 10 sts
Row 6: 1 ch, dc across. Turn. 10 sts
Row 7: 1 ch, dc across. DON'T TURN!
To work the edge:
Rnd 8: 1 ch, 6 dc down the first side of the Beak, [1 dc, 1 ch, 1 dc] in the back of the magic ring, 6 dc up the second side of the Beak, sl st in first dc of Rnd 7 to join. 14 sts (+ 1 sl st)
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Beak to the Nose once you've made all the parts.
Made from the tip of the beak towards the back. Starts with a Magic Ring but made with turned rows - don't worry, it'll become clear as you go! The turning chain at the start of each row is not counted in the stitch count.
Rnd 1: With CC2 and working into a magic ring, 3 dc. Turn. 3 sts (Don't pull the magic ring too tight - you'll work in it again in Rnd 8)
Row 2: 1 ch, [2 dc in next st] 3 times. Turn. 6 sts
Row 3: 1 ch, dc across. Turn. 6 sts
Row 4: 1 ch, 2 dc in next st, 4 dc, 2 dc in next st. Turn. 8 sts
Row 5: 1 ch, 2 dc in next st, 6 dc, 2 dc in next st. Turn. 10 sts
Row 6: 1 ch, dc across. Turn. 10 sts
Row 7: 1 ch, dc across. DON'T TURN!
To work the edge:
Rnd 8: 1 ch, 6 dc down the first side of the Beak, [1 dc, 1 ch, 1 dc] in the back of the magic ring, 6 dc up the second side of the Beak, sl st in first dc of Rnd 7 to join. 14 sts (+ 1 sl st)
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Beak to the Nose once you've made all the parts.
Dodo - wing detail
Wings - make 2
Made from the front of the Wing back to the tips. Main Part - in MC - is made first and then the Wing Tips, called A, B & C are worked one by one - in CC3 - directly onto the main part. Full instructions are given below. Do not stuff.
For the Main Part:
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnd 3: Dc around.
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 12 sts
Rnd 5: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 6: Dc around.
Rnd 7: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnds 8-10: Dc around.
Change to CC3.
Do not fasten off. Continue on to Rnd 11a to start Wing Tip A.
For Wing Tip A:
Rnd 11a: 4 dc, miss next 16 sts, 4 dc. 8 sts
Rnd 12a: 1 dc in each of the 8 sts of Rnd 11a. 8 sts
Rnd 13a: 1 dc in each of the 8 sts of Rnd 12a. 8 sts
Rnd 14a: 4 dc2tog into the sts of Rnd 13a. 4 sts
Fasten off. Weave yarn tail through FLO of last 4 sts and pull to close hole. Weave in end.
For Wing Tip B:
Join CC3 in the next unused stitch of Rnd 10 above and work the following:
Rnd 11b: 4 dc, miss next 8 sts, 4 dc. 8 sts
Rnd 12b: 1 dc in each of the 8 sts of Rnd 11b. 8 sts
Rnd 13b: 1 dc in each of the 8 sts of Rnd 12b. 8 sts
Rnd 14b: 4 dc2tog into the sts of Rnd 13b. 4 sts
Fasten off. Weave yarn tail through FLO of last 4 sts and pull to close hole. Weave in end.
For Wing Tip C:
Join CC3 in the next unused stitch of Rnd 10 above and work the following:
Rnd 11c: 1 dc in each of the remaining 8 sts of Rnd 10. 8 sts
Rnd 12c: 1 dc in each of the 8 sts of Rnd 11c. 8 sts
Rnd 13c: 1 dc in each of the 8 sts of Rnd 12c. 8 sts
Rnd 14 c: 4 dc2tog into the sts of Rnd 13c. 4 sts
Fasten off. Weave yarn tail through FLO of last 4 sts and pull to close hole. Weave in end. Use a length of CC3 and a yarn needle to sew closed any gaps between the Tips of the Wing. Weave in ends.
Made from the front of the Wing back to the tips. Main Part - in MC - is made first and then the Wing Tips, called A, B & C are worked one by one - in CC3 - directly onto the main part. Full instructions are given below. Do not stuff.
For the Main Part:
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnd 3: Dc around.
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 12 sts
Rnd 5: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 6: Dc around.
Rnd 7: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnds 8-10: Dc around.
Change to CC3.
Do not fasten off. Continue on to Rnd 11a to start Wing Tip A.
For Wing Tip A:
Rnd 11a: 4 dc, miss next 16 sts, 4 dc. 8 sts
Rnd 12a: 1 dc in each of the 8 sts of Rnd 11a. 8 sts
Rnd 13a: 1 dc in each of the 8 sts of Rnd 12a. 8 sts
Rnd 14a: 4 dc2tog into the sts of Rnd 13a. 4 sts
Fasten off. Weave yarn tail through FLO of last 4 sts and pull to close hole. Weave in end.
For Wing Tip B:
Join CC3 in the next unused stitch of Rnd 10 above and work the following:
Rnd 11b: 4 dc, miss next 8 sts, 4 dc. 8 sts
Rnd 12b: 1 dc in each of the 8 sts of Rnd 11b. 8 sts
Rnd 13b: 1 dc in each of the 8 sts of Rnd 12b. 8 sts
Rnd 14b: 4 dc2tog into the sts of Rnd 13b. 4 sts
Fasten off. Weave yarn tail through FLO of last 4 sts and pull to close hole. Weave in end.
For Wing Tip C:
Join CC3 in the next unused stitch of Rnd 10 above and work the following:
Rnd 11c: 1 dc in each of the remaining 8 sts of Rnd 10. 8 sts
Rnd 12c: 1 dc in each of the 8 sts of Rnd 11c. 8 sts
Rnd 13c: 1 dc in each of the 8 sts of Rnd 12c. 8 sts
Rnd 14 c: 4 dc2tog into the sts of Rnd 13c. 4 sts
Fasten off. Weave yarn tail through FLO of last 4 sts and pull to close hole. Weave in end. Use a length of CC3 and a yarn needle to sew closed any gaps between the Tips of the Wing. Weave in ends.
Small Tail Tuft- make 1
Three separate Tips - called A, B & C, are made first and then joined together. Do not stuff.
To make Tips A & B:
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnds 3-5: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a yarn tail long enough to weave in once all the parts of the Tail Small Tuft have been joined.
Three separate Tips - called A, B & C, are made first and then joined together. Do not stuff.
To make Tips A & B:
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnds 3-5: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a yarn tail long enough to weave in once all the parts of the Tail Small Tuft have been joined.
To make Tip C:
Work as Rnds 1-5 for Tips A&B above, but don't fasten off at the end of Rnd 5.
Continue on to Rnd 6 below to join the Tips together. On Tips A & B, when joining you will work the into the next unused stitch after the end of Rnd 5 - as shown in the picture above (this is for a right handed crocheter - the next unused stitch will be to the right of the last stitch of Rnd 5 if you crochet left handed).
Work as Rnds 1-5 for Tips A&B above, but don't fasten off at the end of Rnd 5.
Continue on to Rnd 6 below to join the Tips together. On Tips A & B, when joining you will work the into the next unused stitch after the end of Rnd 5 - as shown in the picture above (this is for a right handed crocheter - the next unused stitch will be to the right of the last stitch of Rnd 5 if you crochet left handed).
I've broken Rnd 6 down into separate steps - as shown in the image above. (if you crochet left handed you'll be working in an anti clockwise direction around the Tips).
Rnd 6:
Step 1: 4 dc in Tip C, then…
Step 2: Starting in the next unused stitch in Tip B, 4 dc, then…
Step 3: Starting in the next unused stitch in Tip A, 9 dc, then…
Step 4: Starting in the next unused stitch of Tip B, 5 dc, then…
Step 5: Starting in the next unused stitch of Tip C, 5 dc. Total of 27 sts
Rnd 7: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 9 times. 18 sts
Rnd 8: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnd 9: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail for sewing the Small Tail Tuft to the Body once you've made all the parts. Weave in any other remaining yarn tails. Use a length of MC and a yarn needle to sew closed any small gaps between the Tips of the Small Tail Tuft.
Rnd 6:
Step 1: 4 dc in Tip C, then…
Step 2: Starting in the next unused stitch in Tip B, 4 dc, then…
Step 3: Starting in the next unused stitch in Tip A, 9 dc, then…
Step 4: Starting in the next unused stitch of Tip B, 5 dc, then…
Step 5: Starting in the next unused stitch of Tip C, 5 dc. Total of 27 sts
Rnd 7: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 9 times. 18 sts
Rnd 8: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnd 9: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail for sewing the Small Tail Tuft to the Body once you've made all the parts. Weave in any other remaining yarn tails. Use a length of MC and a yarn needle to sew closed any small gaps between the Tips of the Small Tail Tuft.
Large Tail Feathers - make 3
Do not stuff. Made as three separate parts.
Rnd 1: With CC3 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnd 3: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 12 sts
Rnds 4-6: Dc around.
Rnd 7: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnds 8-10: Dc around.
Rnd 11: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 6 sts
Rnds 12-15: Dc around.
Fasten off. Flatten in half. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Large Tail Feathers to the Body once you've made all the parts.
Do not stuff. Made as three separate parts.
Rnd 1: With CC3 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnd 3: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 12 sts
Rnds 4-6: Dc around.
Rnd 7: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnds 8-10: Dc around.
Rnd 11: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 6 sts
Rnds 12-15: Dc around.
Fasten off. Flatten in half. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Large Tail Feathers to the Body once you've made all the parts.
Dodo - feet underside
Feet - make 2
The Feet are made from 3 separate elements - one central Long Toe and two Side Toes. All are worked from the front of the toe to the back. Stuff as you go.
Long Toe - make 2
Rnd 1: With CC2 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnds 3-5: Dc around.
Rnd 6: 1 dc2tog, 7 dc. 8 sts
Rnd 7: Dc around.
Rnd 8: 1 dc2tog, 6 dc. 7 sts
Rnds 9-10: Dc around.
Rnd 11: 1 dc2tog, 5 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 12: Dc around.
Fasten off. Weave yarn tail through FLO of last 6 sts and pull to close hole. Weave in end.
Side Toes - make 4
Rnd 1: With CC2 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnds 3-4: Dc around.
Rnd 5: 1 dc2tog, 7 dc. 8 sts
Rnd 6: 1 dc2tog, 6 dc. 7 sts
Rnd 7: 1 dc2tog, 5 dc. 6 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Side Toe to the Long Toe once you've made all the parts.
The Feet are made from 3 separate elements - one central Long Toe and two Side Toes. All are worked from the front of the toe to the back. Stuff as you go.
Long Toe - make 2
Rnd 1: With CC2 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnds 3-5: Dc around.
Rnd 6: 1 dc2tog, 7 dc. 8 sts
Rnd 7: Dc around.
Rnd 8: 1 dc2tog, 6 dc. 7 sts
Rnds 9-10: Dc around.
Rnd 11: 1 dc2tog, 5 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 12: Dc around.
Fasten off. Weave yarn tail through FLO of last 6 sts and pull to close hole. Weave in end.
Side Toes - make 4
Rnd 1: With CC2 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnds 3-4: Dc around.
Rnd 5: 1 dc2tog, 7 dc. 8 sts
Rnd 6: 1 dc2tog, 6 dc. 7 sts
Rnd 7: 1 dc2tog, 5 dc. 6 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Side Toe to the Long Toe once you've made all the parts.
Legs - make 2
Made from the bottom of the Leg upwards. Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With CC2 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: Dc around in Back Loop only.
Rnd 3: Dc around.
Change to MC.
Rnd 4: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 5: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnds 6-7: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Legs to the Body once you've made all the parts.
Made from the bottom of the Leg upwards. Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With CC2 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: Dc around in Back Loop only.
Rnd 3: Dc around.
Change to MC.
Rnd 4: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 5: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnds 6-7: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Legs to the Body once you've made all the parts.
Eyes - make 2
Do not stuff.
Rnd 1: With CC4 and working into a magic ring, 4 dc. Slip stitch in first dc to join. 4 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Eye to the Head once you've made all the parts.
Do not stuff.
Rnd 1: With CC4 and working into a magic ring, 4 dc. Slip stitch in first dc to join. 4 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Eye to the Head once you've made all the parts.
Head Tuft
Chains are not included in the stitch count.
Rnd 1: *With MC chain 6, then starting in the second ch from the hook, 5 sl st down the chain**: rep from * to ** four more times, sl st into first ch to join. 26 sl sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Head Tuft to the Head once you've made all the parts.
Chains are not included in the stitch count.
Rnd 1: *With MC chain 6, then starting in the second ch from the hook, 5 sl st down the chain**: rep from * to ** four more times, sl st into first ch to join. 26 sl sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Head Tuft to the Head once you've made all the parts.
Making Up
Using the photographs as a guide, pin the pieces together before sewing, checking from all angles to make sure you’re happy with the positioning, then use the long yarn tails or a length of yarn with a yarn needle to stitch the pieces together.
Looking at the Body and Head part, the Dodo's chest is the broad flat side of the larger Body section, the rounded bit sticking out is his bottom.
Before you start positioning the pieces, you may find it helpful to insert a line of pins running down the front centre line of the Body and Head, taking them under the base and up the back to the top of the Head - this will help you to position everything else evenly in relation to the central line. Remove any pins that are in the way of the pieces you are attaching as you go.
If the previous paragraph has confused you, there's a Photo Tutorial about using Pin Lines to help position amigurumi parts HERE.
Looking at the Nose and Face part, the fastening off point from the last round indicates the bottom. Sew the stuffed Nose and Face part to the Head, (aligned with the central pin line if you are using it). The top of the Nose and Face part should sit approx 7 rounds down from the top of the Head and its bottom edge two rounds up from the neck.
Using the photographs as a guide, pin the pieces together before sewing, checking from all angles to make sure you’re happy with the positioning, then use the long yarn tails or a length of yarn with a yarn needle to stitch the pieces together.
Looking at the Body and Head part, the Dodo's chest is the broad flat side of the larger Body section, the rounded bit sticking out is his bottom.
Before you start positioning the pieces, you may find it helpful to insert a line of pins running down the front centre line of the Body and Head, taking them under the base and up the back to the top of the Head - this will help you to position everything else evenly in relation to the central line. Remove any pins that are in the way of the pieces you are attaching as you go.
If the previous paragraph has confused you, there's a Photo Tutorial about using Pin Lines to help position amigurumi parts HERE.
Looking at the Nose and Face part, the fastening off point from the last round indicates the bottom. Sew the stuffed Nose and Face part to the Head, (aligned with the central pin line if you are using it). The top of the Nose and Face part should sit approx 7 rounds down from the top of the Head and its bottom edge two rounds up from the neck.
Dodo - face detail
To make the first Foot, sew a Short Toe each side of a Long Toe - the fat (starting) end of the Long Toe should be facing forwards. The Short Toes should be attached approx 5 rounds up from the narrow end of the Long Toe. Repeat for the second Foot.
With a length of CC2, sew the narrow closed end of one Leg to the top of one of the Feet, in line with where the Short Toes join the Long Toe. Repeat for second Leg.
With a length of CC2, sew the narrow closed end of one Leg to the top of one of the Feet, in line with where the Short Toes join the Long Toe. Repeat for second Leg.
Dodo Foot - side
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Dodo Foot - rear
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Sew the completed Legs to the base of the Body, making sure the Feet are facing forwards. The inner join of the tops of the Legs should sit roughly in line with Rnd 2 of the Body.
Sew the three Large Tail Feathers to the Dodo's bottom facing upwards - just stitching through the last three rounds of each. They need to be attached roughly in line with Rnd 13 of the Body, with the middle one sitting on the centre line running down the Dodo's back.
Sew the three Large Tail Feathers to the Dodo's bottom facing upwards - just stitching through the last three rounds of each. They need to be attached roughly in line with Rnd 13 of the Body, with the middle one sitting on the centre line running down the Dodo's back.
Dodo - tail detail
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Dodo - wing position
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Attach the Small Tail Tuft just below the bottom of the Large Tail Feathers - with its bottom edge roughly in line with Rnd 10 of the Body.
Attach the Wings either side of the Body, with the lighter wing tips facing back towards the Tail. Counting down from the narrowest round that creates the Dodo's neck, the front point should sit about 10 rounds down the Body from the neck. Just stitch through the first four rounds or so of the Wing to attach it to the Body, leaving the rest of the Wing unattached.
Sew the Beak onto the top of the Nose - with starting point of the beak sitting over the end of the Nose.
Sew the Eyes in place above the Nose sitting about 3 stitches apart.
Sew the Head Tuft in place on top of the Head.
Attach the Wings either side of the Body, with the lighter wing tips facing back towards the Tail. Counting down from the narrowest round that creates the Dodo's neck, the front point should sit about 10 rounds down the Body from the neck. Just stitch through the first four rounds or so of the Wing to attach it to the Body, leaving the rest of the Wing unattached.
Sew the Beak onto the top of the Nose - with starting point of the beak sitting over the end of the Nose.
Sew the Eyes in place above the Nose sitting about 3 stitches apart.
Sew the Head Tuft in place on top of the Head.
Dodo - embroidered chest detail
Embroidered Details
Using the photos as a guide, with a yarn needle, embroider the following:
With CC1, embroider a single stitch highlight on each Eye and the decorative stitch detail on the Dodo's chest.
With CC4, embroider the Dodo's Mouth, taking it along the sides of the Beak and curving the ends up to give him a smile.
All done!
Using the photos as a guide, with a yarn needle, embroider the following:
With CC1, embroider a single stitch highlight on each Eye and the decorative stitch detail on the Dodo's chest.
With CC4, embroider the Dodo's Mouth, taking it along the sides of the Beak and curving the ends up to give him a smile.
All done!
Terms of Use
I am happy for you to donate, gift or sell any of the my crochet chums you make if you are an individual crafter - please credit mycrochetchums.com as the designer.
If you do wish to sell your my crochet chums, it is your responsibility to ensure that the finished item complies with the relevant toy legislation in your country.
Please be sure to use toy grade stuffing and do not add buttons, bells, ribbons etc that could be a danger to small children.
The patterns are copyright protected and are not for commercial use. They cannot be sold, transmitted, distributed or reproduced in any form or by any means. I’ve worked hard to create the designs - please don’t sell my patterns - it’s just plain mean!
I am happy for you to donate, gift or sell any of the my crochet chums you make if you are an individual crafter - please credit mycrochetchums.com as the designer.
If you do wish to sell your my crochet chums, it is your responsibility to ensure that the finished item complies with the relevant toy legislation in your country.
Please be sure to use toy grade stuffing and do not add buttons, bells, ribbons etc that could be a danger to small children.
The patterns are copyright protected and are not for commercial use. They cannot be sold, transmitted, distributed or reproduced in any form or by any means. I’ve worked hard to create the designs - please don’t sell my patterns - it’s just plain mean!
About mycrochetchums
I started mycrochetchums at the end of 2020 to give me something to focus on during lockdown and to make creative use of a box of Amigurumi Yarn that was an impulse purchase I was feeling guilty about!
I’m loving creating these cute characters and sharpening my tech skills in the process as I wrangle with managing a website and social media.
Check out the mycrochetchums Facebook page - drop me a message there if you have any feedback about the pattern or would like to share a picture of the end result.
You can also find me on Instagram @mycrochetchums.
If you have any questions about any of my patterns (or any other ami you may be working on) please email me at: [email protected] - I’ll do my best to help!
Happy Crocheting!
Pia x
©2022PIA SIMPSON/ MYCROCHETCHUMS
I started mycrochetchums at the end of 2020 to give me something to focus on during lockdown and to make creative use of a box of Amigurumi Yarn that was an impulse purchase I was feeling guilty about!
I’m loving creating these cute characters and sharpening my tech skills in the process as I wrangle with managing a website and social media.
Check out the mycrochetchums Facebook page - drop me a message there if you have any feedback about the pattern or would like to share a picture of the end result.
You can also find me on Instagram @mycrochetchums.
If you have any questions about any of my patterns (or any other ami you may be working on) please email me at: [email protected] - I’ll do my best to help!
Happy Crocheting!
Pia x
©2022PIA SIMPSON/ MYCROCHETCHUMS
