Free Amigurumi Valentine Giraffes Pattern
Scroll down further for pattern in full and more photos.
Let's get started...
The Boy and Girl Giraffes both use the same pattern, apart from the Boy's Bow Tie and the Girl's Flowers (by her Ear).
Yarn
Scheepjes Catona 4 ply 100% Cotton, 125m per 50g.
Yarn
Scheepjes Catona 4 ply 100% Cotton, 125m per 50g.
COLOUR |
BOY GIRAFFE |
GIRL GIRAFFE |
APPROX AMOUNT PER GIRAFFE |
MC |
Camel 502 |
Old Lace 130 |
80g |
CC1 |
Old Lace 130 |
Camel 502 |
30g |
CC2 |
Cherry 413 |
Cherry 413 |
30g |
CC3 |
Chocolate 597 |
Chocolate 597 |
Small Amount |
A cotton yarn works well for Ami as it gives good stitch definition and creates a firm structure so body parts hold their shape well. Catona is a relatively thick 4 ply (US: Sport) - you can substitute a DK Cotton (US: DK/Light Worsted) with a similar amount of metres per 50g.
You can scale this pattern up or down by altering the yarn and hook. Use a heavier weight yarn and larger hook for a bigger Giraffes and a lighter weight yarn and smaller hook for little ones.
To read more about scaling an Amigurumi pattern up or down, check out my guide HERE.
You can scale this pattern up or down by altering the yarn and hook. Use a heavier weight yarn and larger hook for a bigger Giraffes and a lighter weight yarn and smaller hook for little ones.
To read more about scaling an Amigurumi pattern up or down, check out my guide HERE.
Hook
2 mm - for the yarn specified above.
Other Supplies
Yarn needle, toy stuffing, stitch marker/waste yarn, pins and scissors.
Tension
27 st x 30 rows = 10cm measured over UK dc using 2mm hook with Scheepjes Catona 4 ply cotton.
Tension is not critical for this project but stitches should be tight enough to avoid stuffing showing through.
Size
30cm/12in from top to toe.
2 mm - for the yarn specified above.
Other Supplies
Yarn needle, toy stuffing, stitch marker/waste yarn, pins and scissors.
Tension
27 st x 30 rows = 10cm measured over UK dc using 2mm hook with Scheepjes Catona 4 ply cotton.
Tension is not critical for this project but stitches should be tight enough to avoid stuffing showing through.
Size
30cm/12in from top to toe.
Pattern Notes
Most parts of the Giraffes are made amigurumi style in a continuous spiral without joins.
The necks of the Giraffes are stiffened (to stop the Head drooping) by using a reinforcing "Inner Sleeve".
Colour changes take place on the last yrh of the last stitch of the previous round.
The Bow Tie for the Boy Giraffe is made in turned rows. The turning chains are not included in the stitch count.
Use a stitch marker or waste yarn to keep track of the first stitch of each round. You can find a Photo Tutorial about using waste yarn as a stitch marker HERE.
If you don't want to make a Magic Ring you can start each piece by making a chain of 2 and then work the first round into the second chain from the hook.
If you'd like to start with a Magic Ring but don’t know how, you can find a Photo Tutorial HERE.
The Giraffes are made of multiple separate pieces sewn together. Unless otherwise stated, finish each piece by pulling the yarn through the last loop and leave a long tail for sewing. Any loose tails at the end can be easily woven in.
UK Crochet Terms - Abbreviations
This pattern is written using UK Crochet Terms - they are NOT the same as US ones - please familiarise yourself with the UK terms to avoid your character’s shape distorting!
The “dc” abbreviation used in this pattern refers to UK double crochet. The equivalent stitch in US terms is single crochet - if you are used to US patterns you need to work single crochet everywhere this pattern says “dc”. If you work US dc (equivalent to UK Treble) the finished item will be elongated and the stuffing will show through.
This pattern also uses UK htr - half treble and UK tr - treble crochet. The equivalent stitches in US terms are US hdc - half double and US dc - double crochet.
Most parts of the Giraffes are made amigurumi style in a continuous spiral without joins.
The necks of the Giraffes are stiffened (to stop the Head drooping) by using a reinforcing "Inner Sleeve".
Colour changes take place on the last yrh of the last stitch of the previous round.
The Bow Tie for the Boy Giraffe is made in turned rows. The turning chains are not included in the stitch count.
Use a stitch marker or waste yarn to keep track of the first stitch of each round. You can find a Photo Tutorial about using waste yarn as a stitch marker HERE.
If you don't want to make a Magic Ring you can start each piece by making a chain of 2 and then work the first round into the second chain from the hook.
If you'd like to start with a Magic Ring but don’t know how, you can find a Photo Tutorial HERE.
The Giraffes are made of multiple separate pieces sewn together. Unless otherwise stated, finish each piece by pulling the yarn through the last loop and leave a long tail for sewing. Any loose tails at the end can be easily woven in.
UK Crochet Terms - Abbreviations
This pattern is written using UK Crochet Terms - they are NOT the same as US ones - please familiarise yourself with the UK terms to avoid your character’s shape distorting!
The “dc” abbreviation used in this pattern refers to UK double crochet. The equivalent stitch in US terms is single crochet - if you are used to US patterns you need to work single crochet everywhere this pattern says “dc”. If you work US dc (equivalent to UK Treble) the finished item will be elongated and the stuffing will show through.
This pattern also uses UK htr - half treble and UK tr - treble crochet. The equivalent stitches in US terms are US hdc - half double and US dc - double crochet.
Increasing and decreasing
You may use either standard increases and decreases in this pattern or, for a much neater finish, invisible ones. FLO = Front loop only.
Decrease - "dc2tog" in pattern.
Standard Decrease: Insert hook in next st, yrh, pull through stitch (2 loops on hook), insert hook in next st, yrh, pull up a loop (3 loops on hook), yrh, pull through all 3 loops on hook.
Invisible decrease: Insert hook in FLO of the two stitches to be decreased, yrh, pull through both front loops, yrh, pull through two loops on hook.
Increase - "2 dc in next st" in pattern.
Standard Increase: Work 2 dc in next st.
Invisible Increase: Work 1 dc in FLO of next st and 1 dc in both loops of same st.
You may use either standard increases and decreases in this pattern or, for a much neater finish, invisible ones. FLO = Front loop only.
Decrease - "dc2tog" in pattern.
Standard Decrease: Insert hook in next st, yrh, pull through stitch (2 loops on hook), insert hook in next st, yrh, pull up a loop (3 loops on hook), yrh, pull through all 3 loops on hook.
Invisible decrease: Insert hook in FLO of the two stitches to be decreased, yrh, pull through both front loops, yrh, pull through two loops on hook.
Increase - "2 dc in next st" in pattern.
Standard Increase: Work 2 dc in next st.
Invisible Increase: Work 1 dc in FLO of next st and 1 dc in both loops of same st.
Body
Made from the bottom up. Stuff as you go up to Rnd 26 then follow the instructions in the pattern.
Rnd 1: With MC, working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 6: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnd 7: [5 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 42 sts
Rnd 8: [6 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 48 sts
Rnd 9: Dc around.
Rnd 10: [7 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 54 sts
Rnds 11-16: Dc around.
Rnd 17: [7 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 48 sts
Rnd 18: Dc around.
Rnd 19: [6 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 42 sts
Rnd 20: Dc around.
Rnd 21: [5 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnd 22: Dc around.
Rnd 23: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 24: Dc around.
Rnd 25: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 26: Dc around.
Stuff up to here only.
Rnds 27-43: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail for sewing the Body & Neck to the Head once you've made all the parts. Follow the instructions at the end of the Inner Sleeve pattern below to finish the Neck.
Made from the bottom up. Stuff as you go up to Rnd 26 then follow the instructions in the pattern.
Rnd 1: With MC, working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 6: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnd 7: [5 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 42 sts
Rnd 8: [6 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 48 sts
Rnd 9: Dc around.
Rnd 10: [7 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 54 sts
Rnds 11-16: Dc around.
Rnd 17: [7 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 48 sts
Rnd 18: Dc around.
Rnd 19: [6 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 42 sts
Rnd 20: Dc around.
Rnd 21: [5 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnd 22: Dc around.
Rnd 23: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 24: Dc around.
Rnd 25: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 26: Dc around.
Stuff up to here only.
Rnds 27-43: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail for sewing the Body & Neck to the Head once you've made all the parts. Follow the instructions at the end of the Inner Sleeve pattern below to finish the Neck.
Inner Sleeve - to reinforce Neck
Made from the bottom up.
Rnd 1: With MC, working into a magic ring, 7 dc. 7 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 14 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 7 times. 21 sts
Rnd 4: Working in BLO, dc around.
Rnds 5-22: Dc around.
Fasten off. Insert the unstuffed Inner Sleeve into the top of the Body & Neck, pushing it down to the point where its bottom is touching the stuffing inside the Body and its top edge lines up with the top edge of the Body & Neck part. Weave in the Inner Sleeve yarn tail. Stuff the Inner Sleeve firmly.
Made from the bottom up.
Rnd 1: With MC, working into a magic ring, 7 dc. 7 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 14 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 7 times. 21 sts
Rnd 4: Working in BLO, dc around.
Rnds 5-22: Dc around.
Fasten off. Insert the unstuffed Inner Sleeve into the top of the Body & Neck, pushing it down to the point where its bottom is touching the stuffing inside the Body and its top edge lines up with the top edge of the Body & Neck part. Weave in the Inner Sleeve yarn tail. Stuff the Inner Sleeve firmly.
Head
Made from the front back. Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With CC1, working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 6: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnds 7-9: Dc around.
Rnd 10: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 11: Dc around.
Change to MC.
Rnd 12: Dc around.
Rnd 13: [8 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 27 sts
Rnds 14-15: Dc around.
Rnd 16: [8 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 30 sts
Rnd 17: 10 dc, [2 dc in next st, 1 dc] 5 times, 2 dc in next st, 9 dc. 36 sts
Rnd 18: Dc around.
Rnd 19: 13 dc, [2 dc in next st, 2 dc] 5 times, 2 dc in next st, 7 dc. 42 sts
Rnd 20: Dc around.
Rnd 21: [6 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 48 sts
Rnd 22: Dc around.
Rnd 23: [7 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 54 sts
Rnd 24: Dc around.
Rnd 25: [7 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 48 sts
Rnd 26: Dc around.
Rnd 27: [6 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 42 sts
Rnd 28: Dc around.
Rnd 29: [5 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnd 30: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 31: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 32: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 33: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnd 34: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Fasten off. Weave yarn tail through FLO of last 6 sts and pull to close hole. Weave in end.
Made from the front back. Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With CC1, working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 6: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnds 7-9: Dc around.
Rnd 10: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 11: Dc around.
Change to MC.
Rnd 12: Dc around.
Rnd 13: [8 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 27 sts
Rnds 14-15: Dc around.
Rnd 16: [8 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 30 sts
Rnd 17: 10 dc, [2 dc in next st, 1 dc] 5 times, 2 dc in next st, 9 dc. 36 sts
Rnd 18: Dc around.
Rnd 19: 13 dc, [2 dc in next st, 2 dc] 5 times, 2 dc in next st, 7 dc. 42 sts
Rnd 20: Dc around.
Rnd 21: [6 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 48 sts
Rnd 22: Dc around.
Rnd 23: [7 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 54 sts
Rnd 24: Dc around.
Rnd 25: [7 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 48 sts
Rnd 26: Dc around.
Rnd 27: [6 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 42 sts
Rnd 28: Dc around.
Rnd 29: [5 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnd 30: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 31: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 32: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 33: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnd 34: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Fasten off. Weave yarn tail through FLO of last 6 sts and pull to close hole. Weave in end.
Arms - make 2
Made from the bottom up. Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With CC2, working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: Working in BLO, dc around.
Rnd 5: Dc around.
Rnd 6: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 15 sts
Change to CC1.
Rnds 7-9: Dc around.
Change to MC.
Rnd 10: Dc around.
Rnd 11: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 12 sts
Rnd 12: Dc around.
Rnd 13: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnds 14-15: Dc around.
Rnd 16: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 6 sts
Rnds 17-18: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Arms to the Body once you've made all the parts.
Made from the bottom up. Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With CC2, working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: Working in BLO, dc around.
Rnd 5: Dc around.
Rnd 6: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 15 sts
Change to CC1.
Rnds 7-9: Dc around.
Change to MC.
Rnd 10: Dc around.
Rnd 11: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 12 sts
Rnd 12: Dc around.
Rnd 13: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnds 14-15: Dc around.
Rnd 16: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 6 sts
Rnds 17-18: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Arms to the Body once you've made all the parts.
Legs - make 2
Made from the bottom up. Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With CC2, working into a magic ring, 7 dc. 7 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 14 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 7 times. 21 sts
Rnd 4: Working in the BLO, dc around.
Rnd 5: Dc around.
Rnd 6: [5 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 18 sts
Change to CC1.
Rnds 7-9: Dc around.
Change to MC.
Rnd 10: Dc around.
Rnd 11: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 15 sts
Rnds 12-13: Dc around.
Rnd 14: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 12 sts
Rnds 15-16: Dc around.
Rnd 17: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnds 18-25: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Legs to the Body once you've made all the parts.
Made from the bottom up. Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With CC2, working into a magic ring, 7 dc. 7 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 14 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 7 times. 21 sts
Rnd 4: Working in the BLO, dc around.
Rnd 5: Dc around.
Rnd 6: [5 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 18 sts
Change to CC1.
Rnds 7-9: Dc around.
Change to MC.
Rnd 10: Dc around.
Rnd 11: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 15 sts
Rnds 12-13: Dc around.
Rnd 14: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 12 sts
Rnds 15-16: Dc around.
Rnd 17: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnds 18-25: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Legs to the Body once you've made all the parts.
Ears - make 2
Made from tip of Ear back towards Head. Don't stuff.
Rnd 1: With MC, working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: Dc around.
Rnd 3: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 4: Dc around.
Rnd 5: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 6: Dc around.
Rnd 7: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnds 8-10: Dc around.
Rnd 11: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 12: Dc around.
Rnd 13: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnd 14: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail for sewing the Ears to the Head once you've made all the parts.
Made from tip of Ear back towards Head. Don't stuff.
Rnd 1: With MC, working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: Dc around.
Rnd 3: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 4: Dc around.
Rnd 5: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 6: Dc around.
Rnd 7: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnds 8-10: Dc around.
Rnd 11: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 12: Dc around.
Rnd 13: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnd 14: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail for sewing the Ears to the Head once you've made all the parts.
Mane
Made as a long strip which is then folded and the two halves joined along the length. Full instructions given below. Chains not included in stitch count.
Row 1: [chain 6, starting in 2nd ch from hook, 5 dc] 40 times. 200 sts
Fasten off. Leave an extra long yarn tail.
You have 40 individual Mane pieces joined together in a long strip. The side that the individual pieces of Mane are curling out towards will be the outside of the Mane. Fold the strip in half so the first and last individual Mane pieces are lined up back to back, making sure you haven't twisted the strip. Using the yarn tail and a yarn needle, sew down the length of the Mane, sewing through both layers at the bottom of the individual Mane pieces, to join them together. Leave the rest of the yarn tail to sew the Mane to the Head and Neck once you've made all the parts.
Made as a long strip which is then folded and the two halves joined along the length. Full instructions given below. Chains not included in stitch count.
Row 1: [chain 6, starting in 2nd ch from hook, 5 dc] 40 times. 200 sts
Fasten off. Leave an extra long yarn tail.
You have 40 individual Mane pieces joined together in a long strip. The side that the individual pieces of Mane are curling out towards will be the outside of the Mane. Fold the strip in half so the first and last individual Mane pieces are lined up back to back, making sure you haven't twisted the strip. Using the yarn tail and a yarn needle, sew down the length of the Mane, sewing through both layers at the bottom of the individual Mane pieces, to join them together. Leave the rest of the yarn tail to sew the Mane to the Head and Neck once you've made all the parts.
Eyes - make 2
Rnd 1: With CC3, working into a magic ring, 6 dc, sl st in beg dc to join. 6 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Eyes to the Head once you've made all the parts.
Rnd 1: With CC3, working into a magic ring, 6 dc, sl st in beg dc to join. 6 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Eyes to the Head once you've made all the parts.
Tail
Made in 2 parts - the Main Section and the End Section. Don't stuff.
Tail Main Section
Rnd 1: With MC, working into a magic ring, 5 dc. 5 sts
Rnd 2: Working in BLO, dc around.
Rnds 3-10: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Tail to the Body once you've made all the parts.
Tail End Section
Worked as a strip. Chains not included in st count.
Row 1: With CC1, [7ch, starting in 2nd ch from hook, 6 sl st] 5 times. 30 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Tail End Section to the Tail Main Section once you've made all the parts.
Made in 2 parts - the Main Section and the End Section. Don't stuff.
Tail Main Section
Rnd 1: With MC, working into a magic ring, 5 dc. 5 sts
Rnd 2: Working in BLO, dc around.
Rnds 3-10: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Tail to the Body once you've made all the parts.
Tail End Section
Worked as a strip. Chains not included in st count.
Row 1: With CC1, [7ch, starting in 2nd ch from hook, 6 sl st] 5 times. 30 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Tail End Section to the Tail Main Section once you've made all the parts.
Big Heart
Made from the centre outwards. The foundation chains aren't included in the stitch count but those in the Rnd instructions are included.
With CC1, chain 15.
Rnd 1: Staring in 2nd ch from hook, 6 dc, 2 dc in next st, 1 ch, 2 dc in next st, 6 dc, 2 ch, 5 dc, 2 dc2tog, 5 dc, 2 ch. 33 sts
Rnd 2: 7 dc, 2 dc in next st, 1 ch, miss next st, 2 dc in next st, 7 dc, 3 dc in 2 ch-sp from prev rnd, 4 dc, 2 dc2tog, 4 dc, 3 dc in 2 ch-sp from prev rnd. 35 sts
Rnd 3: 8 dc, 2 dc in next st, 1 ch, miss next st, 2 dc in next st, 8 dc, [2 dc in next st] 3 times, 3 dc, 2 dc2tog, 3 dc, [2 dc in next st] 3 times. 41 sts
Rnd 4: 9 dc, 2 dc in next st, 1 ch, miss next st, 2 dc in next st, 9 dc, [2 dc in next st, 1 dc] twice, 2 dc in next st, 3 dc, 2 dc2tog, 3 dc, [2 dc in next st, 1 dc] twice, 2 dc in next st, join with sl st to beg dc. 47 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Big Heart to the Body once you've made all the parts.
Made from the centre outwards. The foundation chains aren't included in the stitch count but those in the Rnd instructions are included.
With CC1, chain 15.
Rnd 1: Staring in 2nd ch from hook, 6 dc, 2 dc in next st, 1 ch, 2 dc in next st, 6 dc, 2 ch, 5 dc, 2 dc2tog, 5 dc, 2 ch. 33 sts
Rnd 2: 7 dc, 2 dc in next st, 1 ch, miss next st, 2 dc in next st, 7 dc, 3 dc in 2 ch-sp from prev rnd, 4 dc, 2 dc2tog, 4 dc, 3 dc in 2 ch-sp from prev rnd. 35 sts
Rnd 3: 8 dc, 2 dc in next st, 1 ch, miss next st, 2 dc in next st, 8 dc, [2 dc in next st] 3 times, 3 dc, 2 dc2tog, 3 dc, [2 dc in next st] 3 times. 41 sts
Rnd 4: 9 dc, 2 dc in next st, 1 ch, miss next st, 2 dc in next st, 9 dc, [2 dc in next st, 1 dc] twice, 2 dc in next st, 3 dc, 2 dc2tog, 3 dc, [2 dc in next st, 1 dc] twice, 2 dc in next st, join with sl st to beg dc. 47 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Big Heart to the Body once you've made all the parts.
Horns - make 2
Made from the top of the Horn down.
Rnd 1: With CC3, working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: Dc around.
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnd 5: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 6 sts
Stuff the top of the Horn.
Rnd 6: 1 dc2tog, 4 dc. 5 sts
Rnds 7-8: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Horns to the Head once you've made all the parts.
Made from the top of the Horn down.
Rnd 1: With CC3, working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: Dc around.
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnd 5: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 6 sts
Stuff the top of the Horn.
Rnd 6: 1 dc2tog, 4 dc. 5 sts
Rnds 7-8: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Horns to the Head once you've made all the parts.
Small Hearts - make 13
Chain in Rnd 2 is included in stitch count.
Rnd 1: With CC2, working into a magic ring, 8 dc. 8 sts
Rnd 2: 1 sl st, 3 htr in next st, [1 htr, 1 dc] in next st, 1 dc, [1 htr, 2 ch, 1 htr] in next st, 1 dc, [1 dc, 1 htr] in next st, 3 htr in next st, join with sl st to beg dc. 17 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Small Hearts to the Body once you've made all the parts.
Chain in Rnd 2 is included in stitch count.
Rnd 1: With CC2, working into a magic ring, 8 dc. 8 sts
Rnd 2: 1 sl st, 3 htr in next st, [1 htr, 1 dc] in next st, 1 dc, [1 htr, 2 ch, 1 htr] in next st, 1 dc, [1 dc, 1 htr] in next st, 3 htr in next st, join with sl st to beg dc. 17 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Small Hearts to the Body once you've made all the parts.
Flowers for Girl Giraffe - make 2
Each made in two parts, the Flower Petals and the Flower Centre.
Flower Petals
Make one in CC1 and one in CC2.
Rnd 1: With chosen colour, working into a magic ring, 5 dc. 5 sts
Rnd 2: * [1 sl st, 2 ch, 2 tr, 2 ch] in next st; rep from * 4 more times, join with sl st to beg dc. 5 petals
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Flower Petals to the Head once you've made all the parts.
Flower Centre
Make one in CC1 and one in CC2.
Rnd 1: With chosen colour, working into a magic ring, 5 dc, join with sl st to beg dc. 5 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Flower Centres to the Flower Petals once you've made all the parts.
Each made in two parts, the Flower Petals and the Flower Centre.
Flower Petals
Make one in CC1 and one in CC2.
Rnd 1: With chosen colour, working into a magic ring, 5 dc. 5 sts
Rnd 2: * [1 sl st, 2 ch, 2 tr, 2 ch] in next st; rep from * 4 more times, join with sl st to beg dc. 5 petals
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Flower Petals to the Head once you've made all the parts.
Flower Centre
Make one in CC1 and one in CC2.
Rnd 1: With chosen colour, working into a magic ring, 5 dc, join with sl st to beg dc. 5 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Flower Centres to the Flower Petals once you've made all the parts.
Bow Tie for Boy Giraffe
Made in two parts, the Bow Tie Wings and the Bow Tie Centre.
Bow Tie Wings
With CC1, chain 3.
Row 1: Starting in the 2nd ch from the hook, 2 dc. Turn. 2 sts
Row 2: 1 ch, dc across. Turn.
Row 3: 1 ch, [2 dc in next st] twice. Turn. 4 sts
Rows 4-7: 1 ch, dc across. Turn.
Row 8: 1 ch, 2 dc2tog. Turn. 2 sts
Rows 9-12: 1 ch, dc across. Turn.
Row 13: 1 ch, [2 dc in next st] twice. Turn. 4 sts
Rows 14-17: 1 ch, dc across. Turn.
Row 18: 1 ch, 2 dc2tog. Turn. 2 sts
Rows 19-20: 1 ch, dc across. Turn.
Fasten off. Fold the ends of the Bow Tie Wings into the centre and sew the first and last rows together. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Bow Tie Wings to the Body once you've made all the parts.
Bow Tie Centre
With CC1, chain 9.
Row 1: Starting in 2nd ch from hook, 8 dc. 8 sts
Fasten off. Sew the Bow Tie Centre around the centre of the stitched together Bow Tie Wings. Weave in end.
Made in two parts, the Bow Tie Wings and the Bow Tie Centre.
Bow Tie Wings
With CC1, chain 3.
Row 1: Starting in the 2nd ch from the hook, 2 dc. Turn. 2 sts
Row 2: 1 ch, dc across. Turn.
Row 3: 1 ch, [2 dc in next st] twice. Turn. 4 sts
Rows 4-7: 1 ch, dc across. Turn.
Row 8: 1 ch, 2 dc2tog. Turn. 2 sts
Rows 9-12: 1 ch, dc across. Turn.
Row 13: 1 ch, [2 dc in next st] twice. Turn. 4 sts
Rows 14-17: 1 ch, dc across. Turn.
Row 18: 1 ch, 2 dc2tog. Turn. 2 sts
Rows 19-20: 1 ch, dc across. Turn.
Fasten off. Fold the ends of the Bow Tie Wings into the centre and sew the first and last rows together. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Bow Tie Wings to the Body once you've made all the parts.
Bow Tie Centre
With CC1, chain 9.
Row 1: Starting in 2nd ch from hook, 8 dc. 8 sts
Fasten off. Sew the Bow Tie Centre around the centre of the stitched together Bow Tie Wings. Weave in end.
Making Up
Using the photographs as a guide, pin the pieces together before sewing, checking from all angles to make sure you’re happy with the positioning, then use the long yarn tails or a length of yarn with a yarn needle to stitch the pieces together.
There's a Photo Tutorial about sewing Amigurumi parts together seamlessly HERE.
Before you start positioning the pieces, you may find it helpful to insert a line of pins running down the centre line of front of the Body, under its base and up the back. Do the same with the Head. This will help you to position the rest of the parts evenly in relation to the central line. Remove any pins that are in the way of the pieces you are attaching as you go.
There's a Photo Tutorial about using Pin Lines to help position amigurumi parts on the website - you can find it HERE.
Using the photographs as a guide, pin the pieces together before sewing, checking from all angles to make sure you’re happy with the positioning, then use the long yarn tails or a length of yarn with a yarn needle to stitch the pieces together.
There's a Photo Tutorial about sewing Amigurumi parts together seamlessly HERE.
Before you start positioning the pieces, you may find it helpful to insert a line of pins running down the centre line of front of the Body, under its base and up the back. Do the same with the Head. This will help you to position the rest of the parts evenly in relation to the central line. Remove any pins that are in the way of the pieces you are attaching as you go.
There's a Photo Tutorial about using Pin Lines to help position amigurumi parts on the website - you can find it HERE.
- The point where the colour changes on Rnd 11 of the Head indicates the underside of the Head. Sew the top of the Body to the underside of the Head with its front edge sitting approx 8 rnds back from the colour change.
- The fold point on the Mane is its top end. Pin the Mane up the back of the Body and Head. The bottom end of the Mane should sit at the base of the neck section, the Mane should then sit vertically up the centre back of the Neck and the Head with its top end sitting approx 10 rnds back from the colour change on the top of the Head. Once you're happy with the position, sew into place.
- Sew the Horns either side of the front of the Mane, sitting approx 2 rnds back from the Main's top end and approx 1-2 sts away from the sides of the Mane.
- Pinch the open end of one of the Ears to create a fold and secure in this shape with a few stitches. Repeat for second Ear. Sew the Ears either side of the top of the Head, sitting approx 2 sts away from the Horns.
- Sew the Eyes to the front of the Head, with the top of them sitting approx 4 rnds in front of the base of the Horns, they should be spaced approx 4 sts apart.
- Sew the Big Heart onto the front of the Body, with its bottom point sitting approx 10 rnds up from the first rnd of the Body.
- Sew the Arms to the sides of the Body, attaching them at the base of the Neck section - they should be in line with the Ears when viewed from the side.
- Sew the Legs to the base of the Body spaced approx 2 rnds apart.
- Sew the Tail End section to the end of the Tail Main Section. Sew the completed Tail to the back of the Body, sitting approx 10 rnds up from the first rnd of the Body.
- For the Boy Giraffe, sew the completed Bow Tie to the front of the Neck section, sitting approx 11 rnds down from where the Body joins the underside of the Head.
- For the Girl Giraffe, sew the two Flower Petals just in front of the bottom of one of her Ears and sew the Flower Centres on top of the Flower Petals.
- Pin the Small Hearts on the Body, taking them around the back of the Body and up the sides of the Neck section. Once you're happy with the positioning, sew them into place.
Embroidered Details
- With a length of MC (Girl Giraffe) /CC1 (Boy Giraffe) sew a single stitch highlight on each Eye.
- Referring to the pictures, with a length of CC3 embroider a Mouth approx in line with Rnd 4 of the Head and two Nostrils above the Mouth. For the Girl Giraffe also use CC3 to embroider 3 Eyelashes on each Eye.
Terms of Use
I am happy for you to donate, gift or sell any of the my crochet chums you make if you are an individual crafter - please credit mycrochetchums.com as the pattern designer. The patterns can not be used for any type of mass production or manufacturing.
If you do wish to sell your my crochet chums, it is your responsibility to ensure that the finished item complies with the relevant toy safety legislation in your country.
Please be sure to use toy grade stuffing and do not add buttons, bells, ribbons etc that could be a danger to small children.
You may print your PDF for personal use only (not for redistribution).
The patterns, files and all images are copyright protected and are not for commercial use. No part of the patterns may be sold, reproduced, transmitted, broadcast, translated, used for derivative works or published in any form.
About mycrochetchums
I started mycrochetchums at the end of 2020 to give me something to focus on during lockdown and to make creative use of a box of Amigurumi Yarn that was an impulse purchase I was feeling guilty about! I enjoyed it so much that when the world got back to "normal" I carried on.
I’m loving creating these cute characters and sharpening my tech skills in the process as I wrangle with managing a website and social media.
Check out the mycrochetchums Facebook page - drop me a message there if you have any feedback about the pattern or would like to share a picture of the end result.
You can also find me on Instagram @mycrochetchums.
If you have any questions about any of my patterns (or any other ami you may be working on) please email me at: [email protected] - I’ll do my best to help!
Happy Crocheting!
Pia 🧶😍x
©2024 PIA SIMPSON/ MYCROCHETCHUMS
I am happy for you to donate, gift or sell any of the my crochet chums you make if you are an individual crafter - please credit mycrochetchums.com as the pattern designer. The patterns can not be used for any type of mass production or manufacturing.
If you do wish to sell your my crochet chums, it is your responsibility to ensure that the finished item complies with the relevant toy safety legislation in your country.
Please be sure to use toy grade stuffing and do not add buttons, bells, ribbons etc that could be a danger to small children.
You may print your PDF for personal use only (not for redistribution).
The patterns, files and all images are copyright protected and are not for commercial use. No part of the patterns may be sold, reproduced, transmitted, broadcast, translated, used for derivative works or published in any form.
About mycrochetchums
I started mycrochetchums at the end of 2020 to give me something to focus on during lockdown and to make creative use of a box of Amigurumi Yarn that was an impulse purchase I was feeling guilty about! I enjoyed it so much that when the world got back to "normal" I carried on.
I’m loving creating these cute characters and sharpening my tech skills in the process as I wrangle with managing a website and social media.
Check out the mycrochetchums Facebook page - drop me a message there if you have any feedback about the pattern or would like to share a picture of the end result.
You can also find me on Instagram @mycrochetchums.
If you have any questions about any of my patterns (or any other ami you may be working on) please email me at: [email protected] - I’ll do my best to help!
Happy Crocheting!
Pia 🧶😍x
©2024 PIA SIMPSON/ MYCROCHETCHUMS
More FREE patterns...