Free Amigurumi Crochet Love Bug with Heart Pattern
A Valentine Crochet Project!
Time to Crochet a Love Bug!
Yarn
Scheepjes Catona. 100% Cotton. 125m per 50g
MC: 20g approx of Freesia (519) for Body, Hat, and Spots.
CC1: 10g approx of Petal Peach (263) for Head.
CC2: 15g approx of Hot Red (115) for Hat, Heart and Spots.
CC3: 20g approx of Icy Pink (246) for Wings, Feet and Antennae.
CC4: 10g approx of Jet Black (110) for Arms, Legs, Eyes and Antennae.
CC5: Small amount of Snow White (106) for Eye Highlight and Embroidered Detail.
A cotton yarn works well for Ami as it gives good stitch definition and creates a firm structure so body parts hold their shape well. Scheepjes Catona is a relatively thick 4 ply (US: Sport) - you can substitute a DK Cotton (US: DK/Light Worsted) with a similar amount of metres per 50g.
You can scale this pattern up or down by altering the yarn and hook. Use a heavier weight yarn and larger hook for a bigger Love Bug and a lighter weight yarn and smaller hook for a little one.
To read more about scaling an Amigurumi pattern up or down, check out my guide HERE.
Scheepjes Catona. 100% Cotton. 125m per 50g
MC: 20g approx of Freesia (519) for Body, Hat, and Spots.
CC1: 10g approx of Petal Peach (263) for Head.
CC2: 15g approx of Hot Red (115) for Hat, Heart and Spots.
CC3: 20g approx of Icy Pink (246) for Wings, Feet and Antennae.
CC4: 10g approx of Jet Black (110) for Arms, Legs, Eyes and Antennae.
CC5: Small amount of Snow White (106) for Eye Highlight and Embroidered Detail.
A cotton yarn works well for Ami as it gives good stitch definition and creates a firm structure so body parts hold their shape well. Scheepjes Catona is a relatively thick 4 ply (US: Sport) - you can substitute a DK Cotton (US: DK/Light Worsted) with a similar amount of metres per 50g.
You can scale this pattern up or down by altering the yarn and hook. Use a heavier weight yarn and larger hook for a bigger Love Bug and a lighter weight yarn and smaller hook for a little one.
To read more about scaling an Amigurumi pattern up or down, check out my guide HERE.
Hook
2 mm - for the yarn specified above.
2 mm - for the yarn specified above.
Other Supplies
Yarn needle, toy stuffing, stitch marker/waste yarn, pins and scissors.
Tension
27 st x 30 rows = 10 cm measured over UK dc using 2mm hook with Scheepjes Catona 4 ply cotton.
Tension is not critical for this project but stitches should be tight enough to avoid stuffing showing through.
Size
18 cm (7 in) approx from top to toe.
Yarn needle, toy stuffing, stitch marker/waste yarn, pins and scissors.
Tension
27 st x 30 rows = 10 cm measured over UK dc using 2mm hook with Scheepjes Catona 4 ply cotton.
Tension is not critical for this project but stitches should be tight enough to avoid stuffing showing through.
Size
18 cm (7 in) approx from top to toe.
Crochet Love Bug - Front Left
Pattern Notes
- Unless otherwise specified this pattern is worked in the amigurumi style, in a continuous spiral without slip stitching or turning chains.
- The Hat is made using joined rounds so that there are no jagged steps between the colours. Full instructions are given in the Hat part of the pattern but you can also find a Photo Tutorial showing the Joined Rounds technique HERE.
- Use a stitch marker or waste yarn to keep track of the first stitch of each round. You can find a Photo Tutorial about using waste yarn as a stitch marker HERE.
- If you don't want to make a Magic Ring you can start each piece by making a chain of 2 and then work the first round into the second chain from the hook.
- If you'd like to start with a Magic Ring but don’t know how, you can find a Photo Tutorial HERE.
- The Love Bug is made of multiple separate pieces sewn together. Unless otherwise stated, finish each piece by pulling the yarn through the last loop and leave a long tail for sewing. Any loose tails at the end can be easily woven in.
Crochet Love Bug - Right Side
|
Crochet Love Bug - Left Side
|
UK Crochet Terms - Abbreviations
This pattern is written using UK Crochet Terms - they are NOT the same as US ones - please familiarise yourself with the UK terms to avoid your character’s shape distorting!
The “dc” abbreviation used in this pattern refers to UK double crochet. The equivalent stitch in US terms is single crochet - if you are used to US patterns you need to work single crochet everywhere this pattern says “dc”. If you work US dc (equivalent to UK Treble) the finished item will be elongated and the stuffing will show through.
This pattern is written using UK Crochet Terms - they are NOT the same as US ones - please familiarise yourself with the UK terms to avoid your character’s shape distorting!
The “dc” abbreviation used in this pattern refers to UK double crochet. The equivalent stitch in US terms is single crochet - if you are used to US patterns you need to work single crochet everywhere this pattern says “dc”. If you work US dc (equivalent to UK Treble) the finished item will be elongated and the stuffing will show through.
- If you are used to working in US Crochet Terms you can find a conversion chart HERE.
- If you are unfamiliar with any of the terms used in this pattern, you can find a chart of the UK Crochet terms used HERE.
Increasing and decreasing
You may use either standard increases and decreases in this pattern or, for a much neater finish, invisible ones. FLO = Front loop only.
Decrease - "dc2tog" in pattern.
Invisible decrease: Insert hook in FLO of the two stitches to be decreased, yrh, pull through both front loops, yrh, draw through two loops on hook.
Increase - "2 dc in next st" in pattern.
Invisible Increase: Work 1 dc in FLO of next st and 1 dc in both loops of same st.
You may use either standard increases and decreases in this pattern or, for a much neater finish, invisible ones. FLO = Front loop only.
Decrease - "dc2tog" in pattern.
Invisible decrease: Insert hook in FLO of the two stitches to be decreased, yrh, pull through both front loops, yrh, draw through two loops on hook.
Increase - "2 dc in next st" in pattern.
Invisible Increase: Work 1 dc in FLO of next st and 1 dc in both loops of same st.
Crochet Love Bug - Back
Body
Worked from the bottom of the Body upwards. Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 6: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnd 7: [5 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 42 sts
Rnd 8: [5 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnds 9-11: Dc around.
Rnd 12: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnds 13-16: Dc around.
Rnd 17: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnds 18-20: Dc around.
Rnd 21: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnds 22-23: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Body to the Head once you've made all the parts.
Worked from the bottom of the Body upwards. Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 6: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnd 7: [5 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 42 sts
Rnd 8: [5 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnds 9-11: Dc around.
Rnd 12: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnds 13-16: Dc around.
Rnd 17: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnds 18-20: Dc around.
Rnd 21: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnds 22-23: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Body to the Head once you've made all the parts.
Head
Made from the bottom of the Head upwards. Stuff as you go. Chains not included in the stitch count. This piece starts with an Oval Start - if you're not familiar with this technique, you can find a free Photo Tutorial showing the principle HERE.
With CC1, chain 4.
Rnd 1: Starting in the second ch from the hook, 3 dc, 2 ch, rotating as you go, in the other side of the chain work 3 dc, 2 ch. 6 sts
Rnd 2: [3 dc, 3 dc in 2 ch-sp] twice. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in the next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 6: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnd 7: Dc around.
Rnd 8: 3 dc, [2 dc in next st, 5 dc] 5 times, 2 dc in next st, 2 dc. 42 sts
Rnds 9-10: Dc around.
Rnd 11: 4 dc, [1 dc2tog, 5 dc] 5 times, 1 dc2tog, 1 dc. 36 sts
Rnd 12: Dc around.
Rnd 13: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 14: Dc around.
Rnd 15: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 16: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 17: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnd 18: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Fasten off. Weave the yarn tail through FLO of last 6 sts. Pull to close hole. Weave in end.
Made from the bottom of the Head upwards. Stuff as you go. Chains not included in the stitch count. This piece starts with an Oval Start - if you're not familiar with this technique, you can find a free Photo Tutorial showing the principle HERE.
With CC1, chain 4.
Rnd 1: Starting in the second ch from the hook, 3 dc, 2 ch, rotating as you go, in the other side of the chain work 3 dc, 2 ch. 6 sts
Rnd 2: [3 dc, 3 dc in 2 ch-sp] twice. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in the next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 6: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnd 7: Dc around.
Rnd 8: 3 dc, [2 dc in next st, 5 dc] 5 times, 2 dc in next st, 2 dc. 42 sts
Rnds 9-10: Dc around.
Rnd 11: 4 dc, [1 dc2tog, 5 dc] 5 times, 1 dc2tog, 1 dc. 36 sts
Rnd 12: Dc around.
Rnd 13: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 14: Dc around.
Rnd 15: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 16: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 17: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnd 18: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Fasten off. Weave the yarn tail through FLO of last 6 sts. Pull to close hole. Weave in end.
Crochet Love Bug - Face Detail
Hat
Made using joined rounds. Join each round with a sl st in BLO of beg dc, then work first st of next round into both loops of same dc as join. From the second joined round onwards, make sure you miss the sl st from the prev round, do not work into this rather than the beg dc by mistake. The sl st joins don't count in the st count.
There's a Photo Tutorial about joining rounds HERE.
Rnd 1: With CC2 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. Join in BLO. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. Join. 12 sts
Change to MC.
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. Join. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. Join. 24 sts
Change to CC2.
Rnd 5: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. Join. 30 sts
Rnd 6: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. Join. 36 sts
Change to MC.
Rnds 7-8: Dc around. Join.
Change to CC2.
Rnds 9-10: Dc around. Join.
Change to MC.
Rnds 11-12: Dc around. Join.
Change to CC2.
Rnd 13: Dc around. Join with sl st in Front Loop.
Rnd 14: Sl st around - keep tension fairly relaxed so edge of Hat doesn't tighten up.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Hat to the Head once you've made all the parts.
Made using joined rounds. Join each round with a sl st in BLO of beg dc, then work first st of next round into both loops of same dc as join. From the second joined round onwards, make sure you miss the sl st from the prev round, do not work into this rather than the beg dc by mistake. The sl st joins don't count in the st count.
There's a Photo Tutorial about joining rounds HERE.
Rnd 1: With CC2 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. Join in BLO. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. Join. 12 sts
Change to MC.
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. Join. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. Join. 24 sts
Change to CC2.
Rnd 5: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. Join. 30 sts
Rnd 6: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. Join. 36 sts
Change to MC.
Rnds 7-8: Dc around. Join.
Change to CC2.
Rnds 9-10: Dc around. Join.
Change to MC.
Rnds 11-12: Dc around. Join.
Change to CC2.
Rnd 13: Dc around. Join with sl st in Front Loop.
Rnd 14: Sl st around - keep tension fairly relaxed so edge of Hat doesn't tighten up.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Hat to the Head once you've made all the parts.
Crochet Love Bug - Back Left
Wings - make 2
Do not stuff.
Rnd 1: With CC3, working into a magic ring, 6 dc.
Rnd 2: *1 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice; rep from * once more. 10 sts
Rnd 3: 2 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice, 3 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice, 1 dc. 14 sts
Rnd 4: 3 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice, 5 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice, 2 dc. 18 sts
Rnd 5: 4 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice, 7 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice, 3 dc. 22 sts
Rnd 6: 5 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice, 9 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice, 4 dc. 26 sts
Rnd 7: 6 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice, 11 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice, 5 dc. 30 sts
Rnd 8: Dc around.
Rnd 9: 8 dc, 2 dc in next st, 14 dc, 2 dc in next st, 6 dc. 32 sts
Rnd 10: Dc around.
Do not fasten off. You will now be working the two scalloped shapes for the outer edge of the wing. Continue on to Rnd 11a below to work the first of the scallops.
Rnd 11a: 16 dc, leave rest of round unworked. 16 sts
Rnds 12a-14a: Dc around.
Rnd 15a: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 4 times. 12 sts
Rnd 16a: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 4 times. 8 sts
Rnd 17a: 4 dc2tog. 4 sts
Fasten off. Weave the yarn tail through FLO of last 4 sts. Pull to close hole. Weave in end.
To work the second scallop of the Wing, attach the yarn in the next unused st of Rnd 10 and continue on to Rnd 11b below. Don't worry if there's a gap between the two scallops where they meet in the middle of Rnd 10 - you can sew this closed at the end with a length of CC3 and a yarn needle.
Rnd 11b: 16 dc. 16 sts
Rnds 12b-14b: Dc around.
Rnd 15b: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 4 times. 12 sts
Rnd 16b: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 4 times. 8 sts
Rnd 17b: 4 dc2tog. 4 sts
Fasten off. Weave the yarn tail through FLO of last 4 sts. Pull to close hole. Weave in end.
Do not stuff.
Rnd 1: With CC3, working into a magic ring, 6 dc.
Rnd 2: *1 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice; rep from * once more. 10 sts
Rnd 3: 2 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice, 3 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice, 1 dc. 14 sts
Rnd 4: 3 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice, 5 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice, 2 dc. 18 sts
Rnd 5: 4 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice, 7 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice, 3 dc. 22 sts
Rnd 6: 5 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice, 9 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice, 4 dc. 26 sts
Rnd 7: 6 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice, 11 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice, 5 dc. 30 sts
Rnd 8: Dc around.
Rnd 9: 8 dc, 2 dc in next st, 14 dc, 2 dc in next st, 6 dc. 32 sts
Rnd 10: Dc around.
Do not fasten off. You will now be working the two scalloped shapes for the outer edge of the wing. Continue on to Rnd 11a below to work the first of the scallops.
Rnd 11a: 16 dc, leave rest of round unworked. 16 sts
Rnds 12a-14a: Dc around.
Rnd 15a: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 4 times. 12 sts
Rnd 16a: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 4 times. 8 sts
Rnd 17a: 4 dc2tog. 4 sts
Fasten off. Weave the yarn tail through FLO of last 4 sts. Pull to close hole. Weave in end.
To work the second scallop of the Wing, attach the yarn in the next unused st of Rnd 10 and continue on to Rnd 11b below. Don't worry if there's a gap between the two scallops where they meet in the middle of Rnd 10 - you can sew this closed at the end with a length of CC3 and a yarn needle.
Rnd 11b: 16 dc. 16 sts
Rnds 12b-14b: Dc around.
Rnd 15b: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 4 times. 12 sts
Rnd 16b: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 4 times. 8 sts
Rnd 17b: 4 dc2tog. 4 sts
Fasten off. Weave the yarn tail through FLO of last 4 sts. Pull to close hole. Weave in end.
Arms - make 2
Made from the top of the Arm down towards the Hand. Do not stuff.
Rnd 1: With CC4, working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnds 3-4: Dc around.
Rnd 5: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 6 sts
Rnds 6-14: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Arms to the Body once you've made all the parts.
Made from the top of the Arm down towards the Hand. Do not stuff.
Rnd 1: With CC4, working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnds 3-4: Dc around.
Rnd 5: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 6 sts
Rnds 6-14: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Arms to the Body once you've made all the parts.
Legs - make 2
Foot and Leg made as one piece from the base of the foot upwards. This piece starts with an Oval Start - if you're not familiar with this technique, you can find a free Photo Tutorial showing the principle HERE.
With CC3, chain 7.
Rnd 1: Starting in second ch from the hook, 6 dc, 2 ch, rotating as you go, in other side of the chain work 6 dc, 2 ch. 12 sts
Rnd 2: [6 dc, 3 dc in 2 ch-sp] twice. 18 sts
Rnd 3: Dc around.
Rnd 4: 4 dc, [1 dc2tog, 1 dc] twice, 1 dc2tog, 6 dc. 15 sts
Rnd 5: 3 dc, [1 dc2tog, 1 dc] twice, 1 dc2tog, 4 dc. 12 sts
Change to CC4. Stuff foot. Do not stuff Rnds 6-12.
Rnd 6: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Rnds 7-12: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Leg to the Body once you've made all the parts.
Foot and Leg made as one piece from the base of the foot upwards. This piece starts with an Oval Start - if you're not familiar with this technique, you can find a free Photo Tutorial showing the principle HERE.
With CC3, chain 7.
Rnd 1: Starting in second ch from the hook, 6 dc, 2 ch, rotating as you go, in other side of the chain work 6 dc, 2 ch. 12 sts
Rnd 2: [6 dc, 3 dc in 2 ch-sp] twice. 18 sts
Rnd 3: Dc around.
Rnd 4: 4 dc, [1 dc2tog, 1 dc] twice, 1 dc2tog, 6 dc. 15 sts
Rnd 5: 3 dc, [1 dc2tog, 1 dc] twice, 1 dc2tog, 4 dc. 12 sts
Change to CC4. Stuff foot. Do not stuff Rnds 6-12.
Rnd 6: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Rnds 7-12: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Leg to the Body once you've made all the parts.
Antennae - make 2
Made from the top down. Do not stuff.
Rnd 1: With CC3, working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnds 2-3: Dc around.
Change to CC4.
Rnd 4: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] twice. 4 sts
Rnds 5-7: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Antennae to the Hat once you've made all the parts.
Made from the top down. Do not stuff.
Rnd 1: With CC3, working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnds 2-3: Dc around.
Change to CC4.
Rnd 4: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] twice. 4 sts
Rnds 5-7: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Antennae to the Hat once you've made all the parts.
Eyes - make 2
Rnd 1: With CC4, working into a magic ring, 4 dc, 1 sl st in beg dc to join. 4 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Eyes to the Head once you've made all the parts.
Rnd 1: With CC4, working into a magic ring, 4 dc, 1 sl st in beg dc to join. 4 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Eyes to the Head once you've made all the parts.
Spots for Wings - make 6
Make two in MC and four in CC2.
Rnd 1: Work as for Eyes.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Spots to the Wings once you've made all the parts.
Make two in MC and four in CC2.
Rnd 1: Work as for Eyes.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Spots to the Wings once you've made all the parts.
Heart
Made from the bottom up. Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With CC2, working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: *1 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice; rep from * once more. 10 sts
Rnd 3: *3 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice; rep from * once more. 14 sts
Rnd 4: Dc around.
Rnd 5: 4 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice, 5 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice, 1 dc. 18 sts
Rnd 6: Dc around.
Rnd 7: 5 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice, 7 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice, 2 dc. 22 sts
Rnd 8: Dc around.
Rnd 9: 6 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice, 9 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice, 3 dc. 26 sts
Rnd 10: Dc around.
Rnd 11: 7 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice, 11 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice, 4 dc. 30 sts
Rnd 12: Dc around.
Do not fasten off. You will now be working the two "bumps" that make up the top of the Heart. Continue on to Rnd 13a below to work the first bump.
Rnd 13a: 15 dc, leave the rest of the rnd unworked. 15 sts
Rnd 14a-16a: Dc around.
Rnd 17a: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 5 times. 10 sts
Rnd 18a: 5 dc2tog. 5 sts
Fasten off. Weave the yarn tail through FLO of last 5 sts. Pull to close hole. Weave in end.
To work the second bump of the Heart, attach the yarn in the next unused st of Rnd 12 and continue on to Rnd 13b below. Don't worry if there's a gap between the two bumps where they meet in the middle of Rnd 12 - you can sew this closed at the end with a length of CC2 and a yarn needle.
Rnd 13b: 15 dc. 15 sts
Rnds 14b-16b: Dc around.
Rnd 17b: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 5 times. 10 sts
Rnd 18b: 5 dc2tog. 5 sts
Fasten off. Weave the yarn tail through FLO of last 5 sts. Pull to close hole. Weave in end.
Made from the bottom up. Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With CC2, working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: *1 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice; rep from * once more. 10 sts
Rnd 3: *3 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice; rep from * once more. 14 sts
Rnd 4: Dc around.
Rnd 5: 4 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice, 5 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice, 1 dc. 18 sts
Rnd 6: Dc around.
Rnd 7: 5 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice, 7 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice, 2 dc. 22 sts
Rnd 8: Dc around.
Rnd 9: 6 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice, 9 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice, 3 dc. 26 sts
Rnd 10: Dc around.
Rnd 11: 7 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice, 11 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice, 4 dc. 30 sts
Rnd 12: Dc around.
Do not fasten off. You will now be working the two "bumps" that make up the top of the Heart. Continue on to Rnd 13a below to work the first bump.
Rnd 13a: 15 dc, leave the rest of the rnd unworked. 15 sts
Rnd 14a-16a: Dc around.
Rnd 17a: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 5 times. 10 sts
Rnd 18a: 5 dc2tog. 5 sts
Fasten off. Weave the yarn tail through FLO of last 5 sts. Pull to close hole. Weave in end.
To work the second bump of the Heart, attach the yarn in the next unused st of Rnd 12 and continue on to Rnd 13b below. Don't worry if there's a gap between the two bumps where they meet in the middle of Rnd 12 - you can sew this closed at the end with a length of CC2 and a yarn needle.
Rnd 13b: 15 dc. 15 sts
Rnds 14b-16b: Dc around.
Rnd 17b: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 5 times. 10 sts
Rnd 18b: 5 dc2tog. 5 sts
Fasten off. Weave the yarn tail through FLO of last 5 sts. Pull to close hole. Weave in end.
Crochet Love Bug - Base
|
Crochet Love Bug - Wing Detail
|
Making Up
- Using the photographs as a guide, pin the pieces together before sewing, checking from all angles to make sure you’re happy with the positioning, then use the long yarn tails or a length of yarn with a yarn needle to stitch the pieces together.
- There's a Photo Tutorial about sewing Amigurumi parts together seamlessly on the website - you can find it HERE.
- Before you start positioning the pieces, you may find it helpful to insert a line of pins running down the front centre line of the Body, taking them under the base and up the back - this will help you to position everything else evenly in relation to the central line. Remove any pins that are in the way of the pieces you are attaching as you go.
- If the previous paragraph has confused you, there's a Photo Tutorial about using Pin Lines to help position amigurumi parts on the website - you can find it at: https://www.mycrochetchums.com/amigurumi-crochet-joining-with-pin-guides.html
- Insert the Head in the Hat. The starting round of the Hat should sit at the back of the Head. The last stitch of the last round of the Hat should sit just under the "chin" area of the Head. The starting and finishing rounds of the Head should be concealed in the Hat and the rounds of the Head should be sitting horizontally, as in the photo above. Once you're happy with the positioning, use the Hat yarn tail to sew all round the front edge of the Hat to secure in place.
- Sew the Body to the underside of the Hat- the front edge of the top of the Body should sit just back from the bottom edge of the Hat opening.
- Sew the Antennae to the top of the Hat, about two rounds back from its top edge, with the Antennae sitting about 6 stitches apart.
- Sew the Arms in place on each side of the Body. They should be angled forward and sewn on approx 5 rounds down from the top of the Body. Looking from the sides, the join should be in line with the Antennae vertically.
- Making sure the feet are facing forwards, sew the Legs in place on the base of the Body, set forward slightly so the Love Bug can sit on his bottom.
- Sew three dots on the back of each of the Wings. Attach the Wings to the back of the Body approx 7 rnds down from the top of the Body, sitting approx 2 stitches apart. Just join the inner point of the Wing to the Body, leaving the rest of each Wing unattached.
- Pin the Hands to the Heart and once you are happy with the position, sew the Hands to the Heart.
Crochet Love Bug - Body Detail
Embroidered Details
Using the photos as a guide, with a yarn needle, embroider the following:
With CC5, embroider a single stitch highlight on each Eye and the Star detail around the bottom half of the Body.
With CC2 embroider the Love Bug's mouth.
All done!
Using the photos as a guide, with a yarn needle, embroider the following:
With CC5, embroider a single stitch highlight on each Eye and the Star detail around the bottom half of the Body.
With CC2 embroider the Love Bug's mouth.
All done!
Terms of Use
- I am happy for you to donate, gift or sell any of the my crochet chums you make if you are an individual crafter - please credit mycrochetchums.com as the designer.
- If you do wish to sell your my crochet chums, it is your responsibility to ensure that the finished item complies with the relevant toy legislation in your country.
- Please be sure to use toy grade stuffing and do not add buttons, bells, ribbons etc that could be a danger to small children.
- The patterns are copyright protected and are not for commercial use. They cannot be sold, transmitted, distributed or reproduced in any form or by any means. I’ve worked hard to create the designs - please don’t sell my patterns - it’s just plain mean!
About mycrochetchums
I started mycrochetchums at the end of 2020 to give me something to focus on during lockdown and to make creative use of a box of Amigurumi Yarn that was an impulse purchase I was feeling guilty about!
I’m loving creating these cute characters and sharpening my tech skills in the process as I wrangle with managing a website and social media.
Check out the mycrochetchums Facebook page - drop me a message there if you have any feedback about the pattern or would like to share a picture of the end result.
You can also find me on Instagram @mycrochetchums.
If you have any questions about any of my patterns (or any other ami you may be working on) please email me at: [email protected] - I’ll do my best to help!
Happy Crocheting!
Pia x
©2023PIA SIMPSON/ MYCROCHETCHUMS
I started mycrochetchums at the end of 2020 to give me something to focus on during lockdown and to make creative use of a box of Amigurumi Yarn that was an impulse purchase I was feeling guilty about!
I’m loving creating these cute characters and sharpening my tech skills in the process as I wrangle with managing a website and social media.
Check out the mycrochetchums Facebook page - drop me a message there if you have any feedback about the pattern or would like to share a picture of the end result.
You can also find me on Instagram @mycrochetchums.
If you have any questions about any of my patterns (or any other ami you may be working on) please email me at: [email protected] - I’ll do my best to help!
Happy Crocheting!
Pia x
©2023PIA SIMPSON/ MYCROCHETCHUMS
More Love Themed Free Patterns...
