Free Amigurumi Easter Egg Bunny Pattern
Let's get started...
Yarn
Scheepjes Catona. 100% Cotton. 125m per 50g
MC: 45g approx of Petal Peach (263) for Egg, Ears, Arms and Feet.
CC1: 10g approx of Cyan (397) for Stripes.
CC2: 10g approx of Primrose (522) for Stripes.
CC3: 10g approx of Icy Pink (246) for Stripes.
CC4: 10g approx of Old Lace (130) for Muzzle and Tail.
CC5: Small amount of Chocolate (507) for Eyes, Nose and Embroidered Detail.
A cotton yarn works well for Ami as it gives good stitch definition and creates a firm structure so body parts hold their shape well. Scheepjes Catona is a relatively thick 4 ply (US: Sport) - you can substitute a DK Cotton (US: DK/Light Worsted) with a similar amount of metres per 50g.
You can scale this pattern up or down by altering the yarn and hook. Use a heavier weight yarn and larger hook for a bigger Bunny and a lighter weight yarn and smaller hook for a little one.
To read more about scaling an Amigurumi pattern up or down, check out my guide HERE.
Yarn
Scheepjes Catona. 100% Cotton. 125m per 50g
MC: 45g approx of Petal Peach (263) for Egg, Ears, Arms and Feet.
CC1: 10g approx of Cyan (397) for Stripes.
CC2: 10g approx of Primrose (522) for Stripes.
CC3: 10g approx of Icy Pink (246) for Stripes.
CC4: 10g approx of Old Lace (130) for Muzzle and Tail.
CC5: Small amount of Chocolate (507) for Eyes, Nose and Embroidered Detail.
A cotton yarn works well for Ami as it gives good stitch definition and creates a firm structure so body parts hold their shape well. Scheepjes Catona is a relatively thick 4 ply (US: Sport) - you can substitute a DK Cotton (US: DK/Light Worsted) with a similar amount of metres per 50g.
You can scale this pattern up or down by altering the yarn and hook. Use a heavier weight yarn and larger hook for a bigger Bunny and a lighter weight yarn and smaller hook for a little one.
To read more about scaling an Amigurumi pattern up or down, check out my guide HERE.
Hook
2 mm - for the yarn specified above.
2 mm - for the yarn specified above.
Other Supplies
Yarn needle, toy stuffing, stitch marker/waste yarn, pins and scissors.
Yarn needle, toy stuffing, stitch marker/waste yarn, pins and scissors.
Tension
27 st x 30 rows = 10 cm measured over UK dc using 2mm hook with Scheepjes Catona 4 ply cotton.
Tension is not critical for this project but stitches should be tight enough to avoid stuffing showing through.
27 st x 30 rows = 10 cm measured over UK dc using 2mm hook with Scheepjes Catona 4 ply cotton.
Tension is not critical for this project but stitches should be tight enough to avoid stuffing showing through.
Size
20 cm (8 in) approx from top to toe.
20 cm (8 in) approx from top to toe.
Crochet Easter Egg Bunny - Right Side
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Crochet Easter Egg Bunny - Left Side
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Pattern Notes
Unless otherwise specified this pattern is worked in the amigurumi style, in a continuous spiral without slip stitching or turning chains.
The Egg is made using joined rounds so that there are no jagged steps between the colours. Full instructions are given in the Egg part of the pattern but you can also find a Photo Tutorial showing the Joined Rounds technique HERE.
Use a stitch marker or waste yarn to keep track of the first stitch of each round. You can find a Photo Tutorial about using waste yarn as a stitch marker HERE.
If you don't want to make a Magic Ring you can start each piece by making a chain of 2 and then work the first round into the second chain from the hook.
If you'd like to start with a Magic Ring but don’t know how, you can find a Photo Tutorial HERE.
The Bunny is made of multiple separate pieces sewn together. Unless otherwise stated, finish each piece by pulling the yarn through the last loop and leave a long tail for sewing. Any loose tails at the end can be easily woven in.
Unless otherwise specified this pattern is worked in the amigurumi style, in a continuous spiral without slip stitching or turning chains.
The Egg is made using joined rounds so that there are no jagged steps between the colours. Full instructions are given in the Egg part of the pattern but you can also find a Photo Tutorial showing the Joined Rounds technique HERE.
Use a stitch marker or waste yarn to keep track of the first stitch of each round. You can find a Photo Tutorial about using waste yarn as a stitch marker HERE.
If you don't want to make a Magic Ring you can start each piece by making a chain of 2 and then work the first round into the second chain from the hook.
If you'd like to start with a Magic Ring but don’t know how, you can find a Photo Tutorial HERE.
The Bunny is made of multiple separate pieces sewn together. Unless otherwise stated, finish each piece by pulling the yarn through the last loop and leave a long tail for sewing. Any loose tails at the end can be easily woven in.
UK Crochet Terms - Abbreviations
Sign up to the Mailing List at the top of the page to access free printable PDF versions of this pattern in UK or US terms.
The pattern below is written using UK Crochet Terms - they are NOT the same as US ones - please familiarise yourself with the UK terms to avoid your character’s shape distorting!
The “dc” abbreviation used in this pattern refers to UK double crochet. The equivalent stitch in US terms is single crochet - if you are used to US patterns you need to work single crochet everywhere this pattern says “dc”. If you work US dc (equivalent to UK Treble) the finished item will be elongated and the stuffing will show through.
Sign up to the Mailing List at the top of the page to access free printable PDF versions of this pattern in UK or US terms.
The pattern below is written using UK Crochet Terms - they are NOT the same as US ones - please familiarise yourself with the UK terms to avoid your character’s shape distorting!
The “dc” abbreviation used in this pattern refers to UK double crochet. The equivalent stitch in US terms is single crochet - if you are used to US patterns you need to work single crochet everywhere this pattern says “dc”. If you work US dc (equivalent to UK Treble) the finished item will be elongated and the stuffing will show through.
Increasing and decreasing
You may use either standard increases and decreases in this pattern or, for a much neater finish, invisible ones. FLO = Front loop only.
Decrease - "dc2tog" in pattern.
Invisible decrease: Insert hook in FLO of the two stitches to be decreased, yrh, pull through both front loops, yrh, draw through two loops on hook.
Increase - "2 dc in next st" in pattern.
Invisible Increase: Work 1 dc in FLO of next st and 1 dc in both loops of same st.
You may use either standard increases and decreases in this pattern or, for a much neater finish, invisible ones. FLO = Front loop only.
Decrease - "dc2tog" in pattern.
Invisible decrease: Insert hook in FLO of the two stitches to be decreased, yrh, pull through both front loops, yrh, draw through two loops on hook.
Increase - "2 dc in next st" in pattern.
Invisible Increase: Work 1 dc in FLO of next st and 1 dc in both loops of same st.
Crochet Easter Egg Bunny - Joined Rounds Seam Detail
Egg
Worked from the top of the Egg downwards. Stuff as you go. Made using joined rounds. Join each round with a sl st in BLO of beg dc, then work first st of next round into both loops of same dc as join. From the second joined round onwards, make sure you miss the sl st from the prev round, do not work into this rather than the beg dc by mistake. The sl st joins don't count in the st count.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. Join in BLO. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. Join.12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. Join.18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. Join. 24 sts
Rnd 5: Dc around. Join.
Rnd 6: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. Join. 30 sts
Rnd 7: Dc around. Join.
Rnd 8: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. Join. 36 sts
Rnd 9: [5 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. Join. 42 sts
Rnd 10: Dc around. Join.
Rnd 11: [6 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. Join. 48 sts
Rnd 12: [7 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. Join. 54 sts
Rnd 13: Dc around. Join.
Rnd 14: [8 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. Join. 60 sts
Change to CC1.
Rnds 15-16: Dc around. Join.
Change to CC2.
Rnds 17-18: Dc around. Join.
Change to CC3.
Rnds 19-20: Dc around. Join.
Change to CC1.
Rnds 21-22: Dc around. Join.
Change to CC2.
Rnds 23-24: Dc around. Join.
Change to CC3.
Rnds 25-26: Dc around. Join.
Change to CC1.
Rnds 27-28: Dc around. Join.
Change to CC2.
Rnd 29: [9 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. Join. 66 sts
Rnd 30: Dc around. Join.
Change to CC3.
Rnd 31: [9 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. Join. 60 sts
Rnd 32: Dc around. Join.
Change to CC1.
Rnd 33: [8 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. Join. 54 sts
Rnd 34: Dc around. Join.
Change to MC.
Rnd 35: [7 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. Join. 48 sts
Rnd 36: Dc around. Join.
Rnd 37: [6 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. Join. 42 sts
Rnd 38: Dc around. Join.
Rnd 39: [5 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. Join. 36 sts
Rnd 40: Dc around. Join.
Rnd 41: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. Join. 30 sts
Rnd 42: Dc around. Join.
Rnd 43: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. Join. 24 sts
Rnd 44: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. Join. 18 sts
Rnd 45: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. Join. 12 sts
Rnd 46: 6 dc2tog. Join. 6 sts
Fasten off. Weave the yarn tail through the FLO of the last 6 sts and pull to close hole. Weave in end.
Worked from the top of the Egg downwards. Stuff as you go. Made using joined rounds. Join each round with a sl st in BLO of beg dc, then work first st of next round into both loops of same dc as join. From the second joined round onwards, make sure you miss the sl st from the prev round, do not work into this rather than the beg dc by mistake. The sl st joins don't count in the st count.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. Join in BLO. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. Join.12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. Join.18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. Join. 24 sts
Rnd 5: Dc around. Join.
Rnd 6: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. Join. 30 sts
Rnd 7: Dc around. Join.
Rnd 8: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. Join. 36 sts
Rnd 9: [5 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. Join. 42 sts
Rnd 10: Dc around. Join.
Rnd 11: [6 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. Join. 48 sts
Rnd 12: [7 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. Join. 54 sts
Rnd 13: Dc around. Join.
Rnd 14: [8 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. Join. 60 sts
Change to CC1.
Rnds 15-16: Dc around. Join.
Change to CC2.
Rnds 17-18: Dc around. Join.
Change to CC3.
Rnds 19-20: Dc around. Join.
Change to CC1.
Rnds 21-22: Dc around. Join.
Change to CC2.
Rnds 23-24: Dc around. Join.
Change to CC3.
Rnds 25-26: Dc around. Join.
Change to CC1.
Rnds 27-28: Dc around. Join.
Change to CC2.
Rnd 29: [9 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. Join. 66 sts
Rnd 30: Dc around. Join.
Change to CC3.
Rnd 31: [9 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. Join. 60 sts
Rnd 32: Dc around. Join.
Change to CC1.
Rnd 33: [8 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. Join. 54 sts
Rnd 34: Dc around. Join.
Change to MC.
Rnd 35: [7 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. Join. 48 sts
Rnd 36: Dc around. Join.
Rnd 37: [6 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. Join. 42 sts
Rnd 38: Dc around. Join.
Rnd 39: [5 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. Join. 36 sts
Rnd 40: Dc around. Join.
Rnd 41: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. Join. 30 sts
Rnd 42: Dc around. Join.
Rnd 43: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. Join. 24 sts
Rnd 44: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. Join. 18 sts
Rnd 45: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. Join. 12 sts
Rnd 46: 6 dc2tog. Join. 6 sts
Fasten off. Weave the yarn tail through the FLO of the last 6 sts and pull to close hole. Weave in end.
Crochet Easter Egg Bunny - Back Right
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Crochet Easter Egg Bunny - Front Left
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Ears - make 2
Made from the top down. Do not stuff.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: Dc around.
Rnd 4: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnds 5-14: Dc around.
Rnd 15: [1 dc2tog, 7 dc] twice. 16 sts
Rnds 16-19: Dc around.
Rnd 20: [1 dc2tog, 6 dc] twice. 14 sts
Rnds 21-24: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Ear to the Egg once you've made all the parts.
Made from the top down. Do not stuff.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: Dc around.
Rnd 4: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnds 5-14: Dc around.
Rnd 15: [1 dc2tog, 7 dc] twice. 16 sts
Rnds 16-19: Dc around.
Rnd 20: [1 dc2tog, 6 dc] twice. 14 sts
Rnds 21-24: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Ear to the Egg once you've made all the parts.
Crochet Easter Egg Bunny - Front Right
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Crochet Easter Egg Bunny - Back
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Arms - make 2
Made from the bottom up. Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnds 4-5: Dc around.
Rnd 6: 3 dc2tog, 12 dc. 15 sts
Rnd 7: 2 dc2tog, 11 dc. 13 sts
Rnd 8: 1 dc2tog, 11 dc. 12 sts
Rnds 9-12: Dc around.
Rnd 13: 7 dc, 1 dc2tog, 3 dc. 11 sts
Rnd 14: Dc around.
Rnd 15: 7 dc, 1 dc2tog, 2 dc. 10 sts
Rnds 16-20: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Arm to the Egg once you've made all the parts.
Made from the bottom up. Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnds 4-5: Dc around.
Rnd 6: 3 dc2tog, 12 dc. 15 sts
Rnd 7: 2 dc2tog, 11 dc. 13 sts
Rnd 8: 1 dc2tog, 11 dc. 12 sts
Rnds 9-12: Dc around.
Rnd 13: 7 dc, 1 dc2tog, 3 dc. 11 sts
Rnd 14: Dc around.
Rnd 15: 7 dc, 1 dc2tog, 2 dc. 10 sts
Rnds 16-20: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Arm to the Egg once you've made all the parts.
Feet - make 2
Made from front to back. Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 15 sts
Rnds 4-7: Dc around.
Rnd 8: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 12 sts
Rnds 9-13: Dc around.
Rnd 14: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnds 15-20: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Foot to the Egg once you've made all the parts.
Made from front to back. Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 15 sts
Rnds 4-7: Dc around.
Rnd 8: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 12 sts
Rnds 9-13: Dc around.
Rnd 14: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnds 15-20: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Foot to the Egg once you've made all the parts.
Muzzle Part - make 2
Stuff at the end.
Rnd 1: With CC4, working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnds 3-4: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Muzzle Part to the Egg once you've made all the parts.
Stuff at the end.
Rnd 1: With CC4, working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnds 3-4: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Muzzle Part to the Egg once you've made all the parts.
Eyes - make 2
Rnd 1: With CC5, working into a magic ring, 4 dc, sl st in beg dc to join. 4 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Eye to the Egg once you've made all the parts.
Rnd 1: With CC5, working into a magic ring, 4 dc, sl st in beg dc to join. 4 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Eye to the Egg once you've made all the parts.
Nose
Do not stuff. Nose will be flattened in half when attached at the end.
Rnd 1: With CC5, working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnd 3: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Nose to the Egg once you've made all the parts.
Do not stuff. Nose will be flattened in half when attached at the end.
Rnd 1: With CC5, working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnd 3: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Nose to the Egg once you've made all the parts.
Crochet Easter Egg Bunny - Tail Detail
Tail
Made in 2 stages, the basic shape is made first working only in BLO (Back Loop Only) of each rnd. The work is then turned and the frilly effect is created by working in the unused front loops of the previous rounds.
Rnd 1: With CC4, working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: Working in BLO, 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: Working in BLO, [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: Working in BLO, [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: Working in BLO, [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 6: Working in BLO, [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnds 7-9: Working in BLO, dc around.
At the end of Rnd 9, turn the work so you can crochet back around Rnd 9 in what are now its back loops, then continue on working in the unused loops of all the rounds back to the start of Rnd 1 in a spiral, to create the frill effect.
Rnd 10: [3 ch, miss next st, 1 sl st in next] repeating this back to first round, finishing with a sl st in last available unused loop.
Fasten off. Weave in end.
Made in 2 stages, the basic shape is made first working only in BLO (Back Loop Only) of each rnd. The work is then turned and the frilly effect is created by working in the unused front loops of the previous rounds.
Rnd 1: With CC4, working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: Working in BLO, 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: Working in BLO, [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: Working in BLO, [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: Working in BLO, [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 6: Working in BLO, [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnds 7-9: Working in BLO, dc around.
At the end of Rnd 9, turn the work so you can crochet back around Rnd 9 in what are now its back loops, then continue on working in the unused loops of all the rounds back to the start of Rnd 1 in a spiral, to create the frill effect.
Rnd 10: [3 ch, miss next st, 1 sl st in next] repeating this back to first round, finishing with a sl st in last available unused loop.
Fasten off. Weave in end.
Crochet Easter Egg Bunny - Base Detail
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Crochet Easter Egg Bunny - Face Detail
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Making Up
- Using the photographs as a guide, pin the pieces together before sewing, checking from all angles to make sure you’re happy with the positioning, then use the long yarn tails or a length of yarn with a yarn needle to stitch the pieces together.
- There's a Photo Tutorial about sewing Amigurumi parts together seamlessly HERE.
- Decide which part of the Egg will be the front, making sure the join from the colour changes is to one side so that it's not too noticeable (on mine it's running in line with the back of the Bunny's left arm).
- Before you start positioning the pieces, you may find it helpful to insert a line of pins running down the front centre line of the Egg, taking them under the base and up the back - this will help you to position everything else evenly in relation to the central line. Remove any pins that are in the way of the pieces you are attaching as you go.
- If the previous paragraph has confused you, there's a Photo Tutorial about using Pin Lines to help position amigurumi parts on the website - you can find it HERE.
- To give the Ears a bit of shape, fold the bottom of each in half and secure in this shape with a couple of stitches, then sew each to the top of the Egg, facing forwards.
- Sew the two Muzzle pieces in place, sitting just above the top stripe on the Egg.
- Flatten the Nose in half and sew it in place just above the Muzzle parts.
- Sew the Eyes in place above the Muzzle and Nose. The bottom edge of the Eyes should sit approx 1 rnd above the top edge of the Nose and the Eyes should also be spaced about 4 stitches apart.
- Sew the Arms in place on either side of the Egg, making sure the bottom ends of the Arms curve inwards. They should join on just above the top stripe of the Egg and looking from the side they should be in line with the Ears.
- Sew the Tail in place on the back of the Egg - its bottom edge should sit about 8 rnds up from the base of the Egg.
- Sew the Feet in place on the base of the Egg, facing forwards. Pin them in place first - you may need to experiment with their position to make sure the Bunny can sit on his bottom.
Crochet Easter Egg Bunny - Arm Detail
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Crochet Easter Egg Bunny - Foot Detail
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Embroidered Details
Using the photos as a guide, with a yarn needle, embroider the following:
With CC4, embroider a single stitch highlight on each Eye.
With CC5 embroider the Bunny's mouth, whiskers and 3 claws on each of his limbs.
There's a Photo Tutorial showing the method I use to embroider claws and fasten off the yarn securely HERE.
All done!
Using the photos as a guide, with a yarn needle, embroider the following:
With CC4, embroider a single stitch highlight on each Eye.
With CC5 embroider the Bunny's mouth, whiskers and 3 claws on each of his limbs.
There's a Photo Tutorial showing the method I use to embroider claws and fasten off the yarn securely HERE.
All done!
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- I am happy for you to donate, gift or sell any of the my crochet chums you make if you are an individual crafter - please credit mycrochetchums.com as the designer.
- If you do wish to sell your my crochet chums, it is your responsibility to ensure that the finished item complies with the relevant toy legislation in your country.
- Please be sure to use toy grade stuffing and do not add buttons, bells, ribbons etc that could be a danger to small children.
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About mycrochetchums
I started mycrochetchums at the end of 2020 to give me something to focus on during lockdown and to make creative use of a box of Amigurumi Yarn that was an impulse purchase I was feeling guilty about!
I’m loving creating these cute characters and sharpening my tech skills in the process as I wrangle with managing a website and social media.
Check out the mycrochetchums Facebook page - drop me a message there if you have any feedback about the pattern or would like to share a picture of the end result.
You can also find me on Instagram @mycrochetchums.
If you have any questions about any of my patterns (or any other ami you may be working on) please email me at: [email protected] - I’ll do my best to help!
Happy Crocheting!
Pia x
©2023PIA SIMPSON/ MYCROCHETCHUMS
I started mycrochetchums at the end of 2020 to give me something to focus on during lockdown and to make creative use of a box of Amigurumi Yarn that was an impulse purchase I was feeling guilty about!
I’m loving creating these cute characters and sharpening my tech skills in the process as I wrangle with managing a website and social media.
Check out the mycrochetchums Facebook page - drop me a message there if you have any feedback about the pattern or would like to share a picture of the end result.
You can also find me on Instagram @mycrochetchums.
If you have any questions about any of my patterns (or any other ami you may be working on) please email me at: [email protected] - I’ll do my best to help!
Happy Crocheting!
Pia x
©2023PIA SIMPSON/ MYCROCHETCHUMS
