Free Amigurumi Crochet Halloween Bat Pattern
Crochet your own Bat!
Let's get started...
Yarn
Scheepjes Soft Fun. DK, 140 m per 50g ball, 60% Cotton, 40% Acrylic.
MC: 25g approx of Deep Violet (2515) for Body, Hood, Arms, Legs and Outer Ears.
CC1: 10g approx of Tangerine (2427) for Wings, Inner Ears, Fangs and Embroidered Decoration.
CC2: 10g approx of Lace (2426) for Head, Nose and Embroidered Decoration.
CC3: Small amount of Black (2408) for Eyes and Mouth.
You can scale this pattern up or down by altering the yarn and hook. Use a heavier weight yarn and larger hook for a bigger Bat and a lighter weight yarn and smaller hook for a little one.
To read more about scaling an Amigurumi pattern up or down, check out my guide HERE.
Scheepjes Soft Fun. DK, 140 m per 50g ball, 60% Cotton, 40% Acrylic.
MC: 25g approx of Deep Violet (2515) for Body, Hood, Arms, Legs and Outer Ears.
CC1: 10g approx of Tangerine (2427) for Wings, Inner Ears, Fangs and Embroidered Decoration.
CC2: 10g approx of Lace (2426) for Head, Nose and Embroidered Decoration.
CC3: Small amount of Black (2408) for Eyes and Mouth.
You can scale this pattern up or down by altering the yarn and hook. Use a heavier weight yarn and larger hook for a bigger Bat and a lighter weight yarn and smaller hook for a little one.
To read more about scaling an Amigurumi pattern up or down, check out my guide HERE.
Hook
2mm - for the yarn specified above.
Other Supplies
Yarn needle, toy stuffing, stitch marker/waste yarn, pins and scissors.
Tension
21 sts x 22 rows measured over the UK dc using 2mm hook with Scheepjes Soft Fun DK cotton/acrylic mix.
Tension is not critical for this project but stitches should be tight enough to avoid stuffing showing through.
Size
The Bat is 19cm (7.5in) approx from top to toe.
2mm - for the yarn specified above.
Other Supplies
Yarn needle, toy stuffing, stitch marker/waste yarn, pins and scissors.
Tension
21 sts x 22 rows measured over the UK dc using 2mm hook with Scheepjes Soft Fun DK cotton/acrylic mix.
Tension is not critical for this project but stitches should be tight enough to avoid stuffing showing through.
Size
The Bat is 19cm (7.5in) approx from top to toe.
Crochet Bat - front right side
The Bat is made amigurumi style in a continuous spiral without joins.
The Wings are made using turned rows.
Use a stitch marker or waste yarn to keep track of the first stitch of each round. You can find a Photo Tutorial about using waste yarn as a stitch marker HERE.
If you don't want to make a Magic Ring you can start each piece by making a chain of 2 and then work the first round into the second chain from the hook.
If you'd like to start with a Magic Ring but don’t know how, you can find a Photo Tutorial HERE.
The Bat is made of multiple separate pieces sewn together. Unless otherwise stated, finish each piece by pulling the yarn through the last loop and leave a long tail for sewing. Any loose tails at the end can be easily woven in.
The Wings are made using turned rows.
Use a stitch marker or waste yarn to keep track of the first stitch of each round. You can find a Photo Tutorial about using waste yarn as a stitch marker HERE.
If you don't want to make a Magic Ring you can start each piece by making a chain of 2 and then work the first round into the second chain from the hook.
If you'd like to start with a Magic Ring but don’t know how, you can find a Photo Tutorial HERE.
The Bat is made of multiple separate pieces sewn together. Unless otherwise stated, finish each piece by pulling the yarn through the last loop and leave a long tail for sewing. Any loose tails at the end can be easily woven in.
UK Crochet Terms - Abbreviations
The pattern below is written using UK Crochet Terms - they are NOT the same as US ones - please familiarise yourself with the UK terms to avoid your character’s shape distorting!
The “dc” abbreviation used in this pattern refers to UK double crochet. The equivalent stitch in US terms is single crochet - if you are used to US patterns you need to work single crochet everywhere this pattern says “dc”. If you work US dc (equivalent to UK Treble) the finished item will be elongated and the stuffing will show through.
This pattern also uses UK htr - half treble crochet and UK tr - treble crochet. The equivalent stitches in US terms are US hdc - half double crochet and US dc - double crochet.
Increasing and decreasing
You may use either standard increases and decreases in this pattern or, for a much neater finish, invisible ones. FLO = Front loop only.
Decrease - "dc2tog" in pattern.
Standard Decrease: Insert hook in next st, yrh, pull through stitch (2 loops on hook), insert hook in next st, yrh, pull up a loop (3 loops on hook), yrh, pull through all 3 loops on hook.
Invisible decrease: Insert hook in FLO of the two stitches to be decreased, yrh, pull through both front loops, yrh, pull through two loops on hook.
Increase - "2 dc in next st" in pattern.
Standard Increase: Work 2 dc in next st.
Invisible Increase: Work 1 dc in FLO of next st and 1 dc in both loops of same st.
The pattern below is written using UK Crochet Terms - they are NOT the same as US ones - please familiarise yourself with the UK terms to avoid your character’s shape distorting!
The “dc” abbreviation used in this pattern refers to UK double crochet. The equivalent stitch in US terms is single crochet - if you are used to US patterns you need to work single crochet everywhere this pattern says “dc”. If you work US dc (equivalent to UK Treble) the finished item will be elongated and the stuffing will show through.
This pattern also uses UK htr - half treble crochet and UK tr - treble crochet. The equivalent stitches in US terms are US hdc - half double crochet and US dc - double crochet.
- If you are used to working in US Crochet Terms you can find a conversion chart HERE.
- If you are unfamiliar with any of the terms used in this pattern, find a chart of the UK Crochet terms used HERE.
Increasing and decreasing
You may use either standard increases and decreases in this pattern or, for a much neater finish, invisible ones. FLO = Front loop only.
Decrease - "dc2tog" in pattern.
Standard Decrease: Insert hook in next st, yrh, pull through stitch (2 loops on hook), insert hook in next st, yrh, pull up a loop (3 loops on hook), yrh, pull through all 3 loops on hook.
Invisible decrease: Insert hook in FLO of the two stitches to be decreased, yrh, pull through both front loops, yrh, pull through two loops on hook.
Increase - "2 dc in next st" in pattern.
Standard Increase: Work 2 dc in next st.
Invisible Increase: Work 1 dc in FLO of next st and 1 dc in both loops of same st.
Crochet Bat - right side
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Crochet Bat - left side
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Body
Worked from the bottom up. Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With MC, working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 6: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnd 7: [5 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 42 sts
Rnds 8-15: Dc around.
Rnd 16: [5 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnds 17-19: Dc around.
Rnd 20: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnds 21-23: Dc around.
Rnd 24: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnds 25-27: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail for sewing the Body to the Head once you've made all the parts.
Worked from the bottom up. Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With MC, working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 6: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnd 7: [5 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 42 sts
Rnds 8-15: Dc around.
Rnd 16: [5 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnds 17-19: Dc around.
Rnd 20: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnds 21-23: Dc around.
Rnd 24: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnds 25-27: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail for sewing the Body to the Head once you've made all the parts.
Head
Made from the bottom up. Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With CC2, working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 6: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnd 7: [5 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 42 sts
Rnds 8-14: Dc around.
Rnd 15: [5 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnd 16: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 17: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 18: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 19: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnd 20: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Fasten off. Weave yarn tail through FLO of last 6 sts and pull to close hole. Weave in end.
Made from the bottom up. Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With CC2, working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 6: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnd 7: [5 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 42 sts
Rnds 8-14: Dc around.
Rnd 15: [5 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnd 16: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 17: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 18: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 19: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnd 20: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Fasten off. Weave yarn tail through FLO of last 6 sts and pull to close hole. Weave in end.
Hood
Made from back towards front. The chains in Rnd 16 aren't included in the stitch count. Don't stuff.
Rnd 1: With MC, working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 6: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnd 7: [5 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 42 sts
Rnds 8-14: Dc around.
Rnd 15: [5 dc, 1 dec2tog] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnd 16: 16 dc, miss next st, [3 tr, 2 ch, 3 tr] in next st, miss next st, 17 dc. 39 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail for sewing the Hood to the Head once you've made all the parts.
Made from back towards front. The chains in Rnd 16 aren't included in the stitch count. Don't stuff.
Rnd 1: With MC, working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 6: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnd 7: [5 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 42 sts
Rnds 8-14: Dc around.
Rnd 15: [5 dc, 1 dec2tog] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnd 16: 16 dc, miss next st, [3 tr, 2 ch, 3 tr] in next st, miss next st, 17 dc. 39 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail for sewing the Hood to the Head once you've made all the parts.
Which way's "Up" for a Bat?
Wings - make 2
Made using turned rows. The turning chains aren't included in the stitch count. The 3 ch at the start of Row 13 counts as first htr.
With CC1, chain 3.
Row 1: Starting in second ch from hook, 2 dc. Turn. 2 sts
Row 2: 1 ch, 2 dc in each st across. Turn. 4 sts
Row 3: 1 ch, [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] twice. 6 sts
Row 4: 1 ch, [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] twice. 8 sts
Row 5: 1 ch, [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] twice. 10 sts
Row 6: 1 ch, [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] twice. 12 sts
Row 7: 1 ch, [5 dc, 2 dc in next st] twice. 14 sts
Row 8: 1 ch, [6 dc, 2 dc in next st] twice. 16 sts
Row 9: 1 ch, [7 dc, 2 dc in next st] twice. 18 sts
Row 10: 1 ch, [8 dc, 2 dc in next st] twice. 20 sts
Row 11: 1 ch, [9 dc, 2 dc in next st] twice. 22 sts
Row 12: 1 ch, [10 dc, 2 dc in next st] twice. 24 sts
Row 13: 4 ch, 2 htr in first st, *miss next st, 2 sl st, miss next st, 3 htr in next st, 2 ch, 3 htr in next st; rep from * twice more, miss next st, 2 sl st, miss next st, 3 htr in last st.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail for sewing the Wings to the Arms/Body once you've made all the parts.
Made using turned rows. The turning chains aren't included in the stitch count. The 3 ch at the start of Row 13 counts as first htr.
With CC1, chain 3.
Row 1: Starting in second ch from hook, 2 dc. Turn. 2 sts
Row 2: 1 ch, 2 dc in each st across. Turn. 4 sts
Row 3: 1 ch, [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] twice. 6 sts
Row 4: 1 ch, [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] twice. 8 sts
Row 5: 1 ch, [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] twice. 10 sts
Row 6: 1 ch, [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] twice. 12 sts
Row 7: 1 ch, [5 dc, 2 dc in next st] twice. 14 sts
Row 8: 1 ch, [6 dc, 2 dc in next st] twice. 16 sts
Row 9: 1 ch, [7 dc, 2 dc in next st] twice. 18 sts
Row 10: 1 ch, [8 dc, 2 dc in next st] twice. 20 sts
Row 11: 1 ch, [9 dc, 2 dc in next st] twice. 22 sts
Row 12: 1 ch, [10 dc, 2 dc in next st] twice. 24 sts
Row 13: 4 ch, 2 htr in first st, *miss next st, 2 sl st, miss next st, 3 htr in next st, 2 ch, 3 htr in next st; rep from * twice more, miss next st, 2 sl st, miss next st, 3 htr in last st.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail for sewing the Wings to the Arms/Body once you've made all the parts.
Arms - make 2
Worked from the bottom up. Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With MC, working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnds 3-8: Dc around.
Rnd 9: 1 dc2tog, 7 dc. 8 sts
Rnds 10-11: Dc around.
Rnd 12: 1 dc2tog, 6 dc. 7 sts
Rnds 13-14: Dc around.
Rnd 15: 1 dc2tog, 5 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 16: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail for sewing the Arms to the Body once you've made all the parts.
Worked from the bottom up. Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With MC, working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnds 3-8: Dc around.
Rnd 9: 1 dc2tog, 7 dc. 8 sts
Rnds 10-11: Dc around.
Rnd 12: 1 dc2tog, 6 dc. 7 sts
Rnds 13-14: Dc around.
Rnd 15: 1 dc2tog, 5 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 16: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail for sewing the Arms to the Body once you've made all the parts.
Legs - make 2
Worked from the bottom of the Foot up. Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With MC, working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnds 4-5: Dc around.
Rnd 6: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times, 9 dc. 15 sts
Rnd 7: 3 dc2tog, 9 dc. 12 sts
Rnd 8: 3 dc2tog, 6 dc. 9 sts
Rnds 9-12: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail for sewing the Legs to the Body once you've made all the parts.
Worked from the bottom of the Foot up. Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With MC, working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnds 4-5: Dc around.
Rnd 6: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times, 9 dc. 15 sts
Rnd 7: 3 dc2tog, 9 dc. 12 sts
Rnd 8: 3 dc2tog, 6 dc. 9 sts
Rnds 9-12: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail for sewing the Legs to the Body once you've made all the parts.
Inner Ear - make 2
Rnd 1: With CC1, working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [2 dc in next st, 2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc in next st, 4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 24 sts
Change to MC.
Rnd 5: [2 dc in next st, 6 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 30 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail for sewing the Inner Ear to the Outer Ear once you've made all the parts.
Rnd 1: With CC1, working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [2 dc in next st, 2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc in next st, 4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 24 sts
Change to MC.
Rnd 5: [2 dc in next st, 6 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 30 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail for sewing the Inner Ear to the Outer Ear once you've made all the parts.
Outer Ears - make 2
Using MC only, work Rnds 1-5 of Inner Ears above.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail for sewing the completed Ears to the Hood once you've made all the parts.
Using MC only, work Rnds 1-5 of Inner Ears above.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail for sewing the completed Ears to the Hood once you've made all the parts.
Eyes - make 2
Rnd 1: With CC3, working into a magic ring, 6 dc, join with sl st in beg dc. 6 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Eye to the Head once you've made all the parts.
Rnd 1: With CC3, working into a magic ring, 6 dc, join with sl st in beg dc. 6 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Eye to the Head once you've made all the parts.
Crochet Bat - base
Making Up
- Using the photographs as a guide, pin the pieces together before sewing, checking from all angles to make sure you’re happy with the positioning, then use the long yarn tails or a length of yarn with a yarn needle to stitch the pieces together.
- There's a Photo Tutorial about sewing Amigurumi parts together seamlessly HERE.
- Before you start positioning the pieces, you may find it helpful to insert a line of pins running down the centre line of front of the Body, under its base and up the back, this will help you to position the rest of the Body parts evenly in relation to the central line. Remove any pins that are in the way of the pieces you are attaching as you go.
- There's a Photo Tutorial about using Pin Lines to help position amigurumi parts on the website - you can find it HERE.
Crochet Bat - front
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Crochet Bat - back view
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- The pointed part of the edge of the Hood is its centre top. Insert the Head into the Hood and sew round the edge of the Hood to hold the Head in place.
- Sew the Body to the underside of the Head.
Crochet Bat - Left Ear - remember the right one needs to mirror this one
- Place an Inner Ear and Outer Ear back to back and use the yarn tail of the Inner Ear to join the two round their edge. Looking at the pictures above, fold the bottom edge of the Ear in and secure in this shape with a few stitches. Sew the other Inner Ear and Outer Ear together in the same way and fold into shape, from the other side, making sure the completed Ears are mirror images of each other.
- Sew the Ears to the top of the Head with their folds sitting inwards. The Ears should be approx 6 Rnds back from the front edge of the Hood and spaced about 5 sts apart.
- Sew the Eyes to the face part of the Head, sitting approx 5 sts apart and 3 Rnds down from the top edge of the Hood.
- Join the top of the Arms to either side of the Body, sitting approx 2 Rnds down from the top of the Body.
- Referring to the pictures above, pin the Wings in place on each side of the Body, with the first Row of the Wings at the top, where the Arms are attached to the Body. Make sure the last Row of each Wing is facing forwards so that they match on both sides. Sew the upper edge of each Wing to the underside of each Arm and the other edge of the Wings down each side of the Body.
- With the Feet facing upwards, sew the Legs to the Body roughly in line with Rnd 7 of the Body, spaced approx 5 sts apart.
Crochet Bat - nose detail from side
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Crochet Bat - face detail
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Embroidered Details
All done!
- Use a length of CC2 to embroider the single stitch highlight on each Eye, three Claws on all four Paws and, referring to the photos above, create a Nose by oversewing in the same spot several times.
- Split a length of CC3 down its length to halve its thickness and use this to embroider the Mouth.
- Split a length of CC1 down its length and use this to embroider the Fangs.
- Use a length of CC1 (not split down) to embroider the detail on the Bat's Belly.
All done!
Crochet Bat - belly detail
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Crochet Bat - claw detail
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Terms of Use
I am happy for you to donate, gift or sell any of the my crochet chums you make if you are an individual crafter - please credit mycrochetchums.com as the pattern designer. The patterns can not be used for any type of mass production or manufacturing.
If you do wish to sell your my crochet chums, it is your responsibility to ensure that the finished item complies with the relevant toy safety legislation in your country.
Please be sure to use toy grade stuffing and do not add buttons, bells, ribbons etc that could be a danger to small children.
You may print your PDF for personal use only (not for redistribution).
The patterns, files and all images are copyright protected and are not for commercial use. No part of the patterns may be sold, reproduced, transmitted, broadcast, translated, used for derivative works or published in any form.
I am happy for you to donate, gift or sell any of the my crochet chums you make if you are an individual crafter - please credit mycrochetchums.com as the pattern designer. The patterns can not be used for any type of mass production or manufacturing.
If you do wish to sell your my crochet chums, it is your responsibility to ensure that the finished item complies with the relevant toy safety legislation in your country.
Please be sure to use toy grade stuffing and do not add buttons, bells, ribbons etc that could be a danger to small children.
You may print your PDF for personal use only (not for redistribution).
The patterns, files and all images are copyright protected and are not for commercial use. No part of the patterns may be sold, reproduced, transmitted, broadcast, translated, used for derivative works or published in any form.
About mycrochetchums
I started mycrochetchums at the end of 2020 to give me something to focus on during lockdown and to make creative use of a box of Amigurumi Yarn that was an impulse purchase I was feeling guilty about!
I’m loving creating these cute characters and sharpening my tech skills in the process as I wrangle with managing a website and social media.
Check out the mycrochetchums Facebook page - drop me a message there if you have any feedback about the pattern or would like to share a picture of the end result.
You can also find me on Instagram @mycrochetchums.
If you have any questions about any of my patterns (or any other ami you may be working on) please email me at: [email protected] - I’ll do my best to help!
Happy Crocheting!
Pia x
©2023PIA SIMPSON/ MYCROCHETCHUMS
I started mycrochetchums at the end of 2020 to give me something to focus on during lockdown and to make creative use of a box of Amigurumi Yarn that was an impulse purchase I was feeling guilty about!
I’m loving creating these cute characters and sharpening my tech skills in the process as I wrangle with managing a website and social media.
Check out the mycrochetchums Facebook page - drop me a message there if you have any feedback about the pattern or would like to share a picture of the end result.
You can also find me on Instagram @mycrochetchums.
If you have any questions about any of my patterns (or any other ami you may be working on) please email me at: [email protected] - I’ll do my best to help!
Happy Crocheting!
Pia x
©2023PIA SIMPSON/ MYCROCHETCHUMS
