Free Amigurumi Crochet Gecko Pattern
Crochet your own Gecko!
Let's get started...
Yarn
Scheepjes Catona. 100% Cotton. 125m per 50g.
MC: 25g approx of Cyan (397) for Body and Legs.
CC1: 15g approx of Vivid Blue (146) for Body, Spots, Toes, Eyes and Tongue.
CC2: Small amount of Snow White (106) for Eyes.
CC3: Small amount of Jet Black (110) for Eyes and Mouth.
A cotton yarn works well for Ami as it gives good stitch definition and creates a firm structure so body parts hold their shape well. Scheepjes Catona is a relatively thick 4 ply (US: Sport) - you can substitute a DK Cotton (US: DK/Light Worsted) with a similar amount of metres per 50g.
You can scale this pattern up or down by altering the yarn and hook. Use a heavier weight yarn and larger hook for a bigger Gecko and a lighter weight yarn and smaller hook for a little one.
To read more about scaling an Amigurumi pattern up or down, check out my guide HERE.
Scheepjes Catona. 100% Cotton. 125m per 50g.
MC: 25g approx of Cyan (397) for Body and Legs.
CC1: 15g approx of Vivid Blue (146) for Body, Spots, Toes, Eyes and Tongue.
CC2: Small amount of Snow White (106) for Eyes.
CC3: Small amount of Jet Black (110) for Eyes and Mouth.
A cotton yarn works well for Ami as it gives good stitch definition and creates a firm structure so body parts hold their shape well. Scheepjes Catona is a relatively thick 4 ply (US: Sport) - you can substitute a DK Cotton (US: DK/Light Worsted) with a similar amount of metres per 50g.
You can scale this pattern up or down by altering the yarn and hook. Use a heavier weight yarn and larger hook for a bigger Gecko and a lighter weight yarn and smaller hook for a little one.
To read more about scaling an Amigurumi pattern up or down, check out my guide HERE.
Hook
2 mm - for the yarn specified above.
2 mm - for the yarn specified above.
Other Supplies
Yarn needle, toy stuffing, stitch marker/waste yarn, pins and scissors.
Yarn needle, toy stuffing, stitch marker/waste yarn, pins and scissors.
Tension
27 st x 30 rows = 10 cm measured over UK dc using 2mm hook with Scheepjes Catona 4 ply cotton.
Tension is not critical for this project but stitches should be tight enough to avoid stuffing showing through.
27 st x 30 rows = 10 cm measured over UK dc using 2mm hook with Scheepjes Catona 4 ply cotton.
Tension is not critical for this project but stitches should be tight enough to avoid stuffing showing through.
Size
The Gecko is 23 cm long from Nose to tip of Tail (plus his Tongue).
The Gecko is 23 cm long from Nose to tip of Tail (plus his Tongue).
Pattern Notes
The Gecko is made in the Amigurumi style as a continuous spiral down the Head and Body and joined rounds are used on the Tail section so that there are no jagged steps between the colours. Full instructions are given in the Body part of the pattern but you can also find a Photo Tutorial showing the principle of the Joined Rounds technique HERE.
Use a stitch marker or waste yarn to keep track of the first stitch of each round. You can find a Photo Tutorial about using waste yarn as a stitch marker HERE.
If you don't want to make a Magic Ring you can start each piece by making a chain of 2 and then work the first round into the second chain from the hook.
If you'd like to start with a Magic Ring but don’t know how, you can find a Photo Tutorial HERE.
The Gecko is made of multiple separate pieces sewn together. Unless otherwise stated, finish each piece by pulling the yarn through the last loop and leave a long tail for sewing. Any loose tails at the end can be easily woven in.
Make all the parts first then assemble in order shown in the Making Up instructions.
UK Crochet Terms - Abbreviations
The pattern below is written using UK Crochet Terms - they are NOT the same as US ones - please familiarise yourself with the UK terms to avoid your character’s shape distorting!
The “dc” abbreviation used in this pattern refers to UK double crochet. The equivalent stitch in US terms is single crochet - if you are used to US patterns you need to work single crochet everywhere this pattern says “dc”. If you work US dc (equivalent to UK Treble) the finished item will be elongated and the stuffing will show through.
Increasing and decreasing
You may use either standard increases and decreases in this pattern or, for a much neater finish, invisible ones. FLO = Front loop only.
Decrease - "dc2tog" in pattern.
Standard Decrease: Insert hook in next st, yrh, pull through stitch (2 loops on hook), insert hook in next st, yrh, pull up a loop (3 loops on hook), yrh, pull through all 3 loops on hook.
Invisible decrease: Insert hook in FLO of the two stitches to be decreased, yrh, pull through both front loops, yrh, pull through two loops on hook.
Increase - "2 dc in next st" in pattern.
Standard Increase: Work 2 dc in next st.
Invisible Increase: Work 1 dc in FLO of next st and 1 dc in both loops of same st.
The Gecko is made in the Amigurumi style as a continuous spiral down the Head and Body and joined rounds are used on the Tail section so that there are no jagged steps between the colours. Full instructions are given in the Body part of the pattern but you can also find a Photo Tutorial showing the principle of the Joined Rounds technique HERE.
Use a stitch marker or waste yarn to keep track of the first stitch of each round. You can find a Photo Tutorial about using waste yarn as a stitch marker HERE.
If you don't want to make a Magic Ring you can start each piece by making a chain of 2 and then work the first round into the second chain from the hook.
If you'd like to start with a Magic Ring but don’t know how, you can find a Photo Tutorial HERE.
The Gecko is made of multiple separate pieces sewn together. Unless otherwise stated, finish each piece by pulling the yarn through the last loop and leave a long tail for sewing. Any loose tails at the end can be easily woven in.
Make all the parts first then assemble in order shown in the Making Up instructions.
UK Crochet Terms - Abbreviations
The pattern below is written using UK Crochet Terms - they are NOT the same as US ones - please familiarise yourself with the UK terms to avoid your character’s shape distorting!
The “dc” abbreviation used in this pattern refers to UK double crochet. The equivalent stitch in US terms is single crochet - if you are used to US patterns you need to work single crochet everywhere this pattern says “dc”. If you work US dc (equivalent to UK Treble) the finished item will be elongated and the stuffing will show through.
- If you are used to working in US Crochet Terms you can find a conversion chart HERE.
- If you are unfamiliar with any of the terms used in this pattern, find a chart of the UK Crochet terms used HERE.
Increasing and decreasing
You may use either standard increases and decreases in this pattern or, for a much neater finish, invisible ones. FLO = Front loop only.
Decrease - "dc2tog" in pattern.
Standard Decrease: Insert hook in next st, yrh, pull through stitch (2 loops on hook), insert hook in next st, yrh, pull up a loop (3 loops on hook), yrh, pull through all 3 loops on hook.
Invisible decrease: Insert hook in FLO of the two stitches to be decreased, yrh, pull through both front loops, yrh, pull through two loops on hook.
Increase - "2 dc in next st" in pattern.
Standard Increase: Work 2 dc in next st.
Invisible Increase: Work 1 dc in FLO of next st and 1 dc in both loops of same st.
Crochet Gecko - Front
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Crochet Gecko - Front Left
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Head, Body & Tail
Made as one piece. Rnds 1- 41 are worked amigurumi style in a continuous spiral. Rnds 41 - 81 are worked using joined rounds. Join each round with a sl st in BLO of beg dc, then work first st of next round into both loops of same dc as join. From the second joined round onwards, make sure you miss the sl st from the prev round, do not work into this rather than the beg dc by mistake. The sl st joins don't count in the st count. Made from the Nose back to the Tail. Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnd 3: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 12 sts
Rnd 4: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 15 sts
Rnd 5: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 18 sts
Rnd 6: [5 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 21 sts
Rnd 7: Dc around.
Rnd 8: 12 dc, [2 dc in next st, 3 dc] twice, 2 dc in next st. 24 sts
Rnd 9: 12 dc, [2 dc in next st, 4 dc] twice, 2 dc in next st, 1 dc. 27 sts
Rnd 10: 12 dc, [2 dc in next st, 5 dc] twice, 2 dc in next st, 2 dc. 30 sts
Rnds 11-12: Dc around.
Rnd 13: 14 dc, [1 dc2tog, 5 dc] twice, 1 dc2tog. 27 sts
Rnd 14: 13 dc, [1 dc2tog, 4 dc] twice, 1 dc2tog. 24 sts
Rnd 15: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 16-19: Dc around.
Rnd 20: 1 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice, 8 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice, 2 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice, 1 dc. 24 sts
Rnds 21-22: Dc around.
Rnd 23: 4 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice, 8 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice, 5 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice, 1 dc. 30 sts
Rnds 24-31: Dc around.
Rnd 32: 1 dc2tog, 4 dc, 2 dc2tog, 10 dc, 2 dc2tog, 4 dc, 1 dc2tog. 24 sts
Rnds 33-35: Dc around.
Rnd 36: 1 dc2tog, 3 dc, 2 dc2tog, 6 dc, 2 dc2tog, 3 dc, 1 dc2tog. 18 sts
Rnd 37-38: Dc around.
Rnd 39: 1 dc2tog, 3 dc, 1 dc2tog, 6 dc, 1 dc2tog, 3 dc. 15 sts
Rnd 40: Dc around.
Rnd 41: 1 dc2tog, 2 dc, 1 dc2tog, 5 dc, 1 dc2tog, 2 dc. 12 sts
From here on you'll be working in joined rounds - full instructions for how to work the joins are given at the top of this pattern section.
Rnd 42: Dc around. Join in BLO.
Rnds 43-44: Dc around. Join.
Rnd 45: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. Join. 9 sts
Rnd 46: Dc around. Join.
Change to CC1.
Rnds 47-51: Dc around. Join.
Change to MC.
Rnd 52: Dc around. Join.
Rnd 53: 2 dc, 1 dc2tog, 5 dc. Join. 8 sts
Change to CC1.
Rnds 54-57: Dc around. Join.
Change to MC.
Rnd 58: Dc around. Join.
Rnd 59: 2 dc, 1 dc2tog, 4 dc. 7 sts
Change to CC1.
Rnds 60-62: Dc around. Join.
Change to MC.
Rnds 63-64: Dc around. Join.
Change to CC1.
Rnd 65: Dc around. Join.
Rnd 66: 2 dc, 1 dc2tog, 3 dc. Join. 6 sts
Rnds 67-68: Dc around. Join.
Rnd 69: 2 dc, 1 dc2tog, 2 dc. Join. 5 sts
Rnd 70: Dc around. Join.
Rnd 71: 2 dc, 1 dc2tog, 1 dc. Join. 4 sts
Rnd 72: Dc around.
Fasten off. Weave yarn tail through FLO of last 6 sts and pull to close hole. Weave in end.
Made as one piece. Rnds 1- 41 are worked amigurumi style in a continuous spiral. Rnds 41 - 81 are worked using joined rounds. Join each round with a sl st in BLO of beg dc, then work first st of next round into both loops of same dc as join. From the second joined round onwards, make sure you miss the sl st from the prev round, do not work into this rather than the beg dc by mistake. The sl st joins don't count in the st count. Made from the Nose back to the Tail. Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnd 3: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 12 sts
Rnd 4: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 15 sts
Rnd 5: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 18 sts
Rnd 6: [5 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 21 sts
Rnd 7: Dc around.
Rnd 8: 12 dc, [2 dc in next st, 3 dc] twice, 2 dc in next st. 24 sts
Rnd 9: 12 dc, [2 dc in next st, 4 dc] twice, 2 dc in next st, 1 dc. 27 sts
Rnd 10: 12 dc, [2 dc in next st, 5 dc] twice, 2 dc in next st, 2 dc. 30 sts
Rnds 11-12: Dc around.
Rnd 13: 14 dc, [1 dc2tog, 5 dc] twice, 1 dc2tog. 27 sts
Rnd 14: 13 dc, [1 dc2tog, 4 dc] twice, 1 dc2tog. 24 sts
Rnd 15: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 16-19: Dc around.
Rnd 20: 1 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice, 8 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice, 2 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice, 1 dc. 24 sts
Rnds 21-22: Dc around.
Rnd 23: 4 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice, 8 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice, 5 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice, 1 dc. 30 sts
Rnds 24-31: Dc around.
Rnd 32: 1 dc2tog, 4 dc, 2 dc2tog, 10 dc, 2 dc2tog, 4 dc, 1 dc2tog. 24 sts
Rnds 33-35: Dc around.
Rnd 36: 1 dc2tog, 3 dc, 2 dc2tog, 6 dc, 2 dc2tog, 3 dc, 1 dc2tog. 18 sts
Rnd 37-38: Dc around.
Rnd 39: 1 dc2tog, 3 dc, 1 dc2tog, 6 dc, 1 dc2tog, 3 dc. 15 sts
Rnd 40: Dc around.
Rnd 41: 1 dc2tog, 2 dc, 1 dc2tog, 5 dc, 1 dc2tog, 2 dc. 12 sts
From here on you'll be working in joined rounds - full instructions for how to work the joins are given at the top of this pattern section.
Rnd 42: Dc around. Join in BLO.
Rnds 43-44: Dc around. Join.
Rnd 45: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. Join. 9 sts
Rnd 46: Dc around. Join.
Change to CC1.
Rnds 47-51: Dc around. Join.
Change to MC.
Rnd 52: Dc around. Join.
Rnd 53: 2 dc, 1 dc2tog, 5 dc. Join. 8 sts
Change to CC1.
Rnds 54-57: Dc around. Join.
Change to MC.
Rnd 58: Dc around. Join.
Rnd 59: 2 dc, 1 dc2tog, 4 dc. 7 sts
Change to CC1.
Rnds 60-62: Dc around. Join.
Change to MC.
Rnds 63-64: Dc around. Join.
Change to CC1.
Rnd 65: Dc around. Join.
Rnd 66: 2 dc, 1 dc2tog, 3 dc. Join. 6 sts
Rnds 67-68: Dc around. Join.
Rnd 69: 2 dc, 1 dc2tog, 2 dc. Join. 5 sts
Rnd 70: Dc around. Join.
Rnd 71: 2 dc, 1 dc2tog, 1 dc. Join. 4 sts
Rnd 72: Dc around.
Fasten off. Weave yarn tail through FLO of last 6 sts and pull to close hole. Weave in end.
Crochet gecko - front right
Legs - make 4
The bend in the Leg is made first, then, working in half of the stitches of Rnd 3, the bottom part of the Leg is worked and the yarn fastened off. The yarn is then reattached to the next unused stitch of Rnd 3 and the top part of the Leg is worked. Full instructions given below. Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With MC, working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Don't fasten off, continue on to Rnd 4 below to work the bottom part of the Leg.
Rnd 4a: 9 dc, leave rest of rnd unworked. 9 sts
Rnds 5a-7a: Dc around. 9 sts
Rnd 8a: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 6 sts
Rnd 9a: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Leg to the Foot once you've made all the parts. Make sure bottom part of Leg is stuffed before you start the top part.
To work top part of Leg, reattach yarn in next unused stitch of Rnd 3 and, starting in that stitch, work Rnd 4b onwards below.
Depending on your natural tension, there may be a small gap between the two parts on the underside of the "knee"- this can be stitched closed with a length of MC and a yarn needle once the Leg is completed.
Rnds 4b-5b: Dc around. 9 sts
Rnd 6b: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 6 sts
Rnd 7b: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Leg to the Body once you've made all the parts.
The bend in the Leg is made first, then, working in half of the stitches of Rnd 3, the bottom part of the Leg is worked and the yarn fastened off. The yarn is then reattached to the next unused stitch of Rnd 3 and the top part of the Leg is worked. Full instructions given below. Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With MC, working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Don't fasten off, continue on to Rnd 4 below to work the bottom part of the Leg.
Rnd 4a: 9 dc, leave rest of rnd unworked. 9 sts
Rnds 5a-7a: Dc around. 9 sts
Rnd 8a: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 6 sts
Rnd 9a: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Leg to the Foot once you've made all the parts. Make sure bottom part of Leg is stuffed before you start the top part.
To work top part of Leg, reattach yarn in next unused stitch of Rnd 3 and, starting in that stitch, work Rnd 4b onwards below.
Depending on your natural tension, there may be a small gap between the two parts on the underside of the "knee"- this can be stitched closed with a length of MC and a yarn needle once the Leg is completed.
Rnds 4b-5b: Dc around. 9 sts
Rnd 6b: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 6 sts
Rnd 7b: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Leg to the Body once you've made all the parts.
Crochet Gecko - underside of foot
Feet - make 4
Each Foot is made up of two long and two short toes. Toes made from the front end back. Don't stuff.
Long Toes - make 8
Rnd 1: With CC1, working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: Dc around.
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] twice. 4 sts
Rnds 4-7: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail on four of the Long Toes, weave the end in on the other four.
Short Toes - make 8
For each, work Rnds 1-5 of the Long Toes pattern above.
Fasten off and weave in ends.
To make each foot, taking one Long Toe with a long yarn tail, one Long Toe without a yarn tail and two Short Toes, stitch them together at their back ends with the two Short Toes sitting either side of the two Long Toes. Please see the picture of the underside of Foot above. Weave in end.
Each Foot is made up of two long and two short toes. Toes made from the front end back. Don't stuff.
Long Toes - make 8
Rnd 1: With CC1, working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: Dc around.
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] twice. 4 sts
Rnds 4-7: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail on four of the Long Toes, weave the end in on the other four.
Short Toes - make 8
For each, work Rnds 1-5 of the Long Toes pattern above.
Fasten off and weave in ends.
To make each foot, taking one Long Toe with a long yarn tail, one Long Toe without a yarn tail and two Short Toes, stitch them together at their back ends with the two Short Toes sitting either side of the two Long Toes. Please see the picture of the underside of Foot above. Weave in end.
Crochet Gecko - eye
Eyes - make 2
Made from the centre outwards.
Rnd 1: With CC3, working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Change to CC2.
Rnd 2: 2 dc in BLO of each st around. 12 sts
Change to CC1.
Rnd 3: [1 sl st in BLO, 3 ch, 1 sl st in BLO of same st] 4 times, 8 sl st in BLO. 16 sts (+chains)
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew Eye to Head once you've made all the parts.
Made from the centre outwards.
Rnd 1: With CC3, working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Change to CC2.
Rnd 2: 2 dc in BLO of each st around. 12 sts
Change to CC1.
Rnd 3: [1 sl st in BLO, 3 ch, 1 sl st in BLO of same st] 4 times, 8 sl st in BLO. 16 sts (+chains)
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew Eye to Head once you've made all the parts.
Crochet Gecko - spots
Large Spots - make 2
Rnd 1: With CC1, working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around, join with 1 sl st in beg dc. 12 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Large Spot to the Body once you've made all the parts.
Small Spots - make 3
Rnd 1: With CC1, working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Small Spot to the Body once you've made all the parts.
Tongue
With CC1, chain 7.
Row 1: Starting in second ch from hook, 2 sl st, 3 ch, starting in second ch from hook, 6 sl st back to beginning of starting chain. 8 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew Tongue to Head once you've made all the parts.
Rnd 1: With CC1, working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around, join with 1 sl st in beg dc. 12 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Large Spot to the Body once you've made all the parts.
Small Spots - make 3
Rnd 1: With CC1, working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Small Spot to the Body once you've made all the parts.
Tongue
With CC1, chain 7.
Row 1: Starting in second ch from hook, 2 sl st, 3 ch, starting in second ch from hook, 6 sl st back to beginning of starting chain. 8 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew Tongue to Head once you've made all the parts.
Crochet Gecko - underside
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Crochet Gecko - leg positions
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Making Up
- Using the photographs as a guide, pin the pieces together before sewing, checking from all angles to make sure you’re happy with the positioning, then use the long yarn tails or a length of yarn with a yarn needle to stitch the pieces together.
- There's a Photo Tutorial about sewing Amigurumi parts together seamlessly HERE.
- Before you start positioning the pieces, you may find it helpful to insert a line of pins running down the centre line of the back of the Head, Body & Tail, this will help you to position the Legs and Eyes evenly in relation to the central line. Remove any pins that are in the way of the pieces you are attaching as you go.
- There's a Photo Tutorial about using Pin Lines to help position amigurumi parts on the website - you can find it HERE.
- The shorter part of each Leg is the top. Sew two Legs to the sides of the Body approx 5 Rnds forward from the first dark stripe of the Tail section - these Legs should stick out at right angles to the Body and be approx 6 sts apart, counting across the Gecko's back. See right hand photo above.
- Approx 15 rnds in front of the back Legs, attach the two front Legs to the sides of the Body so that their top parts sit along the side of the Body rather than sticking out like the back ones. The front Legs should be approx 15 sts apart across the Gecko's back.
- Sew a Foot to the bottom of each Leg. The back ones need to face outwards and the front ones face forwards.
- Sew the Spots to the Gecko's back.
- Sew the Eyes to either side of the Head section, sitting approx 5 sts apart across the top of the Head, with the "frill" edge of each Eye sitting towards the top.
- Sew the Tongue in place, sitting just below Rnd 1 of the Head.
Embroidered Details
All done!
- Use a length of CC2 with a yarn needle to embroider the single stitch highlight onto the Eyes.
- Use a length of CC3 to embroider the Gecko's mouth.
All done!
Terms of Use
I am happy for you to donate, gift or sell any of the my crochet chums you make if you are an individual crafter - please credit mycrochetchums.com as the pattern designer. The patterns can not be used for any type of mass production or manufacturing.
If you do wish to sell your my crochet chums, it is your responsibility to ensure that the finished item complies with the relevant toy safety legislation in your country.
Please be sure to use toy grade stuffing and do not add buttons, bells, ribbons etc that could be a danger to small children.
You may print your PDF for personal use only (not for redistribution).
The patterns, files and all images are copyright protected and are not for commercial use. No part of the patterns may be sold, reproduced, transmitted, broadcast, translated, used for derivative works or published in any form.
I am happy for you to donate, gift or sell any of the my crochet chums you make if you are an individual crafter - please credit mycrochetchums.com as the pattern designer. The patterns can not be used for any type of mass production or manufacturing.
If you do wish to sell your my crochet chums, it is your responsibility to ensure that the finished item complies with the relevant toy safety legislation in your country.
Please be sure to use toy grade stuffing and do not add buttons, bells, ribbons etc that could be a danger to small children.
You may print your PDF for personal use only (not for redistribution).
The patterns, files and all images are copyright protected and are not for commercial use. No part of the patterns may be sold, reproduced, transmitted, broadcast, translated, used for derivative works or published in any form.
About mycrochetchums
I started mycrochetchums at the end of 2020 to give me something to focus on during lockdown and to make creative use of a box of Amigurumi Yarn that was an impulse purchase I was feeling guilty about!
I’m loving creating these cute characters and sharpening my tech skills in the process as I wrangle with managing a website and social media.
Check out the mycrochetchums Facebook page - drop me a message there if you have any feedback about the pattern or would like to share a picture of the end result.
You can also find me on Instagram @mycrochetchums.
If you have any questions about any of my patterns (or any other ami you may be working on) please email me at: [email protected] - I’ll do my best to help!
Happy Crocheting!
Pia x
©2023PIA SIMPSON/ MYCROCHETCHUMS
I started mycrochetchums at the end of 2020 to give me something to focus on during lockdown and to make creative use of a box of Amigurumi Yarn that was an impulse purchase I was feeling guilty about!
I’m loving creating these cute characters and sharpening my tech skills in the process as I wrangle with managing a website and social media.
Check out the mycrochetchums Facebook page - drop me a message there if you have any feedback about the pattern or would like to share a picture of the end result.
You can also find me on Instagram @mycrochetchums.
If you have any questions about any of my patterns (or any other ami you may be working on) please email me at: [email protected] - I’ll do my best to help!
Happy Crocheting!
Pia x
©2023PIA SIMPSON/ MYCROCHETCHUMS
