Free Amigurumi Crochet Dolphin and Baby Pattern
Yarn
Scheepjes Catona. 100% Cotton. 125m per 50g.
MC: 60g approx of Anthracite (501) for Bodies, Tails, Side and Top Fins.
CC1: 20g approx of Snow White (106) for Underside Patches and Eyes.
CC2: 5g approx of Jet Black (110) for Eyes and Embroidered Details.
A cotton yarn works well for Ami as it gives good stitch definition and creates a firm structure so body parts hold their shape well. Scheepjes Catona is a relatively thick 4 ply (US: Sport) - you can substitute a DK Cotton (US: DK/Light Worsted) with a similar amount of metres per 50g.
You can scale this pattern up or down by altering the yarn and hook. Use a heavier weight yarn and larger hook for bigger Dolphins and a lighter weight yarn and smaller hook for smaller ones.
To read more about scaling an Amigurumi pattern up or down, check out my guide HERE.
Scheepjes Catona. 100% Cotton. 125m per 50g.
MC: 60g approx of Anthracite (501) for Bodies, Tails, Side and Top Fins.
CC1: 20g approx of Snow White (106) for Underside Patches and Eyes.
CC2: 5g approx of Jet Black (110) for Eyes and Embroidered Details.
A cotton yarn works well for Ami as it gives good stitch definition and creates a firm structure so body parts hold their shape well. Scheepjes Catona is a relatively thick 4 ply (US: Sport) - you can substitute a DK Cotton (US: DK/Light Worsted) with a similar amount of metres per 50g.
You can scale this pattern up or down by altering the yarn and hook. Use a heavier weight yarn and larger hook for bigger Dolphins and a lighter weight yarn and smaller hook for smaller ones.
To read more about scaling an Amigurumi pattern up or down, check out my guide HERE.
Hook
2 mm - for the yarn specified above.
2 mm - for the yarn specified above.
Other Supplies
Yarn needle, toy stuffing, stitch marker/waste yarn, pins and scissors.
Yarn needle, toy stuffing, stitch marker/waste yarn, pins and scissors.
Tension
27 st x 30 rows = 10 cm measured over UK dc using 2mm hook with Scheepjes Catona 4 ply cotton.
Tension is not critical for this project but stitches should be tight enough to avoid stuffing showing through.
27 st x 30 rows = 10 cm measured over UK dc using 2mm hook with Scheepjes Catona 4 ply cotton.
Tension is not critical for this project but stitches should be tight enough to avoid stuffing showing through.
Size
Big Dolphin 18 cm (7in) approx from nose to tail.
Baby Dolphin 11 cm (4.25in) approx from nose to tail.
Big Dolphin 18 cm (7in) approx from nose to tail.
Baby Dolphin 11 cm (4.25in) approx from nose to tail.
Crochet Big Dolphin - front right
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Crochet Baby Dolphin - left side
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Pattern Notes
Unless otherwise specified this pattern is worked in the amigurumi style, in a continuous spiral without slip stitching or turning chains.
The Dolphins' Underside Patches are made using turned rows - the turning chain at the start of each row is not included in the stitch count.
The Big Dolphin's Top Fin is made using joined rounds. Full instructions on how to do this are included in the Big Dolphin Top Fin section of the pattern.
Use a stitch marker or waste yarn to keep track of the first stitch of each round. You can find a Photo Tutorial about using waste yarn as a stitch marker HERE.
If you don't want to make a Magic Ring you can start each piece by making a chain of 2 and then work the first round into the second chain from the hook.
If you'd like to start with a Magic Ring but don’t know how, you can find a Photo Tutorial HERE.
The Dolphins are made of multiple separate pieces sewn together. Unless otherwise stated, finish each piece by pulling the yarn through the last loop and leave a long tail for sewing. Any loose tails at the end can be easily woven in.
Unless otherwise specified this pattern is worked in the amigurumi style, in a continuous spiral without slip stitching or turning chains.
The Dolphins' Underside Patches are made using turned rows - the turning chain at the start of each row is not included in the stitch count.
The Big Dolphin's Top Fin is made using joined rounds. Full instructions on how to do this are included in the Big Dolphin Top Fin section of the pattern.
Use a stitch marker or waste yarn to keep track of the first stitch of each round. You can find a Photo Tutorial about using waste yarn as a stitch marker HERE.
If you don't want to make a Magic Ring you can start each piece by making a chain of 2 and then work the first round into the second chain from the hook.
If you'd like to start with a Magic Ring but don’t know how, you can find a Photo Tutorial HERE.
The Dolphins are made of multiple separate pieces sewn together. Unless otherwise stated, finish each piece by pulling the yarn through the last loop and leave a long tail for sewing. Any loose tails at the end can be easily woven in.
UK Crochet Terms - Abbreviations
The pattern below is written using UK Crochet Terms - they are NOT the same as US ones - please familiarise yourself with the UK terms to avoid your character’s shape distorting!
The “dc” abbreviation used in this pattern refers to UK double crochet. The equivalent stitch in US terms is single crochet - if you are used to US patterns you need to work single crochet everywhere this pattern says “dc”. If you work US dc (equivalent to UK Treble) the finished item will be elongated and the stuffing will show through.
This pattern also uses UK htr - half treble and UK tr - treble crochet. The equivalent stitches in US terms are US hdc - half double crochet and US dc - double crochet.
The pattern below is written using UK Crochet Terms - they are NOT the same as US ones - please familiarise yourself with the UK terms to avoid your character’s shape distorting!
The “dc” abbreviation used in this pattern refers to UK double crochet. The equivalent stitch in US terms is single crochet - if you are used to US patterns you need to work single crochet everywhere this pattern says “dc”. If you work US dc (equivalent to UK Treble) the finished item will be elongated and the stuffing will show through.
This pattern also uses UK htr - half treble and UK tr - treble crochet. The equivalent stitches in US terms are US hdc - half double crochet and US dc - double crochet.
Increasing and decreasing
You may use either standard increases and decreases in this pattern or, for a much neater finish, invisible ones. FLO = Front loop only. Use standard increases and decreases for the Underside Patch rows.
Decrease - "dc2tog" in pattern.
Invisible decrease: Insert hook in FLO of the two stitches to be decreased, yrh, pull through both front loops, yrh, draw through two loops on hook.
Increase - "2 dc in next st" in pattern.
Invisible Increase: Work 1 dc in FLO of next st and 1 dc in both loops of same st.
Decrease over half trebles and trebles - "htr2tog" and "tr2tog" in pattern.
This pattern also uses a decrease worked using UK half trebles and trebles (US hdc and dc - half double and double crochet). They are worked as follows:
htr2tog: Yrh, insert hook in FLO of next 2 sts, yrh, pull through those two loops (leaves 3 loops on hook), yrh, pull through all 3 loops on hook. Decrease complete.
tr2tog: Yrh, insert hook in FLO of next 2 sts, yrh, pull through those two loops (leaves 3 loops on hook), yrh, pull through 2 loops on hook, (leaves 2 loops on hook), yrh, pull through both loops on hook. Decrease complete.
You may use either standard increases and decreases in this pattern or, for a much neater finish, invisible ones. FLO = Front loop only. Use standard increases and decreases for the Underside Patch rows.
Decrease - "dc2tog" in pattern.
Invisible decrease: Insert hook in FLO of the two stitches to be decreased, yrh, pull through both front loops, yrh, draw through two loops on hook.
Increase - "2 dc in next st" in pattern.
Invisible Increase: Work 1 dc in FLO of next st and 1 dc in both loops of same st.
Decrease over half trebles and trebles - "htr2tog" and "tr2tog" in pattern.
This pattern also uses a decrease worked using UK half trebles and trebles (US hdc and dc - half double and double crochet). They are worked as follows:
htr2tog: Yrh, insert hook in FLO of next 2 sts, yrh, pull through those two loops (leaves 3 loops on hook), yrh, pull through all 3 loops on hook. Decrease complete.
tr2tog: Yrh, insert hook in FLO of next 2 sts, yrh, pull through those two loops (leaves 3 loops on hook), yrh, pull through 2 loops on hook, (leaves 2 loops on hook), yrh, pull through both loops on hook. Decrease complete.
Crochet Big Dolphin - front left
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Big Dolphin - Tail detail
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Big Dolphin - Body
Made from the nose back to the tail. Stuff as you go. The slip stitches in Rnds 56a/b are included in the stitch count. Please refer to the Increasing & Decreasing section above for how to work "tr2tog".
Rnd 1: With MC, working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnds 3-6: Dc around.
Rnd 7: [2 dc in next st] 6 times, 3 dc. 15 sts
Rnd 8: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times, 6 dc. 18 sts
Rnd 9: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times, 2 dc, [2 dc in next st, 1 dc] 3 times, 4 dc. 24 sts
Rnd 10: 5 dc, [2 dc in next st, 1 dc] 6 times, 7 dc. 30 sts
Rnds 11-13: Dc around.
Rnd 14: 7 dc, [2 dc in next st, 2 dc] 5 times, 2 dc in next st, 7 dc. 36 sts
Rnds 15-19: Dc around.
Rnd 20: 13 dc, [1 dc2tog, 3 dc] twice, 1 dc2tog, 11 dc. 33 sts
Rnd 21: Dc around.
Rnd 22: 13 dc, [1 dc2tog, 2 dc] twice, 1 dc2tog, 10 dc. 30 sts
Rnd 23: Dc around.
Rnd 24: 13 dc, [1 dc2tog, 1 dc] twice, 1 dc2tog, 9 dc. 27 sts
Rnds 25-27: Dc around.
Rnd 28: 11 dc, [1 dc2tog, 2 dc] twice, 1 dc2tog, 6 dc. 24 sts
Rnds 29-31: Dc around.
Rnd 32: 11 dc, [1 dc2tog, 2 dc] twice, 1 dc2tog, 3 dc. 21 sts
Rnds 33-35: Dc around.
Rnd 36: 11 dc, [1 dc2tog, 2 dc] twice, 1 dc2tog. 18 sts
Rnds 37-38: Dc around.
Rnd 39: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 15 sts
Rnds 40-41: Dc around.
Rnd 42: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 12 sts
Rnd 43: Dc around.
Rnd 44: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnd 45: Dc around.
Rnd 46: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 6 sts
Rnd 47: Dc around.
Rnd 48: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 49: [2 dc in next st] twice, 2 dc, [2 dc in next st] 4 times, 2 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice. 20 sts
Rnd 50: [2 dc in next st] twice, 6 dc, [2 dc in next st] 4 times, 6 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice. 28 sts
Rnd 51: [2 dc in next st] 3 times, 10 dc, [2 dc in next st] 4 times, 10 dc, 2 dc in next st. 36 sts
Rnd 52: *[2 dc in next st] twice, 16 dc; rep from * once more. 40 sts
Rnd 53: Dc around.
Do not fasten off. You're now going to work the tail in two parts. To work the first part, continue on to Rnd 54a.
Rnd 54a: 13 dc, place marker in next st, miss that st and the next 19sts, 7 dc. 20 sts
Rnd 55a: Dc around in the stitches of Rnd 54a only. 20 sts
Rnd 56a: 2 htr, 2 tr2tog, 2 htr, 4 dc, 4 sl st, 4 dc. 18 sts
Fasten off. Flatten the last row and use the yarn tail to sew the first part of the tail closed across the top of the stitches in Rnd 56a. Weave in end.
To make the second part of the tail, reattach the MC yarn in the place marked stitch of Rnd 53. Starting in that stitch work the following:
Rnd 54b: Dc around. 20 sts
Rnd 55b: Dc around.
Rnd 56b: 2 sl st, 4 dc, 2 htr, 2 tr2tog, 2 htr, 4 dc, 2 sl st. 18 sts
Fasten off. Flatten the last row and use the yarn tail to sew the first part of the tail closed across the top of the stitches in Rnd 56b. Weave in end.
Made from the nose back to the tail. Stuff as you go. The slip stitches in Rnds 56a/b are included in the stitch count. Please refer to the Increasing & Decreasing section above for how to work "tr2tog".
Rnd 1: With MC, working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnds 3-6: Dc around.
Rnd 7: [2 dc in next st] 6 times, 3 dc. 15 sts
Rnd 8: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times, 6 dc. 18 sts
Rnd 9: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times, 2 dc, [2 dc in next st, 1 dc] 3 times, 4 dc. 24 sts
Rnd 10: 5 dc, [2 dc in next st, 1 dc] 6 times, 7 dc. 30 sts
Rnds 11-13: Dc around.
Rnd 14: 7 dc, [2 dc in next st, 2 dc] 5 times, 2 dc in next st, 7 dc. 36 sts
Rnds 15-19: Dc around.
Rnd 20: 13 dc, [1 dc2tog, 3 dc] twice, 1 dc2tog, 11 dc. 33 sts
Rnd 21: Dc around.
Rnd 22: 13 dc, [1 dc2tog, 2 dc] twice, 1 dc2tog, 10 dc. 30 sts
Rnd 23: Dc around.
Rnd 24: 13 dc, [1 dc2tog, 1 dc] twice, 1 dc2tog, 9 dc. 27 sts
Rnds 25-27: Dc around.
Rnd 28: 11 dc, [1 dc2tog, 2 dc] twice, 1 dc2tog, 6 dc. 24 sts
Rnds 29-31: Dc around.
Rnd 32: 11 dc, [1 dc2tog, 2 dc] twice, 1 dc2tog, 3 dc. 21 sts
Rnds 33-35: Dc around.
Rnd 36: 11 dc, [1 dc2tog, 2 dc] twice, 1 dc2tog. 18 sts
Rnds 37-38: Dc around.
Rnd 39: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 15 sts
Rnds 40-41: Dc around.
Rnd 42: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 12 sts
Rnd 43: Dc around.
Rnd 44: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnd 45: Dc around.
Rnd 46: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 6 sts
Rnd 47: Dc around.
Rnd 48: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 49: [2 dc in next st] twice, 2 dc, [2 dc in next st] 4 times, 2 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice. 20 sts
Rnd 50: [2 dc in next st] twice, 6 dc, [2 dc in next st] 4 times, 6 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice. 28 sts
Rnd 51: [2 dc in next st] 3 times, 10 dc, [2 dc in next st] 4 times, 10 dc, 2 dc in next st. 36 sts
Rnd 52: *[2 dc in next st] twice, 16 dc; rep from * once more. 40 sts
Rnd 53: Dc around.
Do not fasten off. You're now going to work the tail in two parts. To work the first part, continue on to Rnd 54a.
Rnd 54a: 13 dc, place marker in next st, miss that st and the next 19sts, 7 dc. 20 sts
Rnd 55a: Dc around in the stitches of Rnd 54a only. 20 sts
Rnd 56a: 2 htr, 2 tr2tog, 2 htr, 4 dc, 4 sl st, 4 dc. 18 sts
Fasten off. Flatten the last row and use the yarn tail to sew the first part of the tail closed across the top of the stitches in Rnd 56a. Weave in end.
To make the second part of the tail, reattach the MC yarn in the place marked stitch of Rnd 53. Starting in that stitch work the following:
Rnd 54b: Dc around. 20 sts
Rnd 55b: Dc around.
Rnd 56b: 2 sl st, 4 dc, 2 htr, 2 tr2tog, 2 htr, 4 dc, 2 sl st. 18 sts
Fasten off. Flatten the last row and use the yarn tail to sew the first part of the tail closed across the top of the stitches in Rnd 56b. Weave in end.
Big Dolphin - Underside Patch detail
Big Dolphin - Underside Patch
Worked flat in turned rows, starting at the tail end and working up towards nose. The turning chains at the start of each round aren't included in the stitch count.
With CC1, chain 3.
Row 1: Starting in the second ch from the hook, 2 dc. Turn. 2 sts
Row 2: 1 ch, [2 dc in next st] twice. Turn. 4 sts
Rows 3-5: 1 ch, dc across. Turn.
Row 6: 1 ch, 2 dc in next st, 2 dc, 2 dc in next st. Turn. 6 sts
Rows 7-10: 1 ch, dc across. Turn.
Row 11: 1 ch, 2 dc in next st, 4 dc, 2 dc in next st. Turn. 8 sts
Rows 12-15: 1 ch, dc across. Turn.
Row 16: 1 ch, 2 dc in next st, 6 dc, 2 dc in next st. Turn. 10 sts
Rows 17-20: 1 ch, dc across. Turn.
Row 21: 1 ch, 2 dc in next st, 8 dc, 2 sec in next st. Turn. 12 sts
Rows 22-28: 1 ch, dc across. Turn.
Row 29: 1 ch, 1 dc2tog, 8 dc, 1 dc2tog. Turn. 10 sts
Rows 30-34: 1 ch, dc across. Turn.
Row 35: 1 ch, 1 dc2tog, 6 dc, 1 dc2tog. Turn. 8 sts
Row 36: 1 ch, dc across. Turn.
Row 37: 1 ch, 1 dc2tog, 4 dc, 1 dc2tog. Turn. 6 sts
Rows 38-41: 1 ch, dc across. Turn.
Row 42: 1 ch, 1 dc2tog, 2 dc, 1 dc2tog. 4 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Underside Patch to the Body once you've made all the parts.
Worked flat in turned rows, starting at the tail end and working up towards nose. The turning chains at the start of each round aren't included in the stitch count.
With CC1, chain 3.
Row 1: Starting in the second ch from the hook, 2 dc. Turn. 2 sts
Row 2: 1 ch, [2 dc in next st] twice. Turn. 4 sts
Rows 3-5: 1 ch, dc across. Turn.
Row 6: 1 ch, 2 dc in next st, 2 dc, 2 dc in next st. Turn. 6 sts
Rows 7-10: 1 ch, dc across. Turn.
Row 11: 1 ch, 2 dc in next st, 4 dc, 2 dc in next st. Turn. 8 sts
Rows 12-15: 1 ch, dc across. Turn.
Row 16: 1 ch, 2 dc in next st, 6 dc, 2 dc in next st. Turn. 10 sts
Rows 17-20: 1 ch, dc across. Turn.
Row 21: 1 ch, 2 dc in next st, 8 dc, 2 sec in next st. Turn. 12 sts
Rows 22-28: 1 ch, dc across. Turn.
Row 29: 1 ch, 1 dc2tog, 8 dc, 1 dc2tog. Turn. 10 sts
Rows 30-34: 1 ch, dc across. Turn.
Row 35: 1 ch, 1 dc2tog, 6 dc, 1 dc2tog. Turn. 8 sts
Row 36: 1 ch, dc across. Turn.
Row 37: 1 ch, 1 dc2tog, 4 dc, 1 dc2tog. Turn. 6 sts
Rows 38-41: 1 ch, dc across. Turn.
Row 42: 1 ch, 1 dc2tog, 2 dc, 1 dc2tog. 4 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Underside Patch to the Body once you've made all the parts.
Crochet Big Dolphin - side fin
Big Dolphin - Side Fins - make 2
Made from the tip of the Fin back towards the Body. Do not stuff.
Rnd 1: With MC, working into a magic ring, 4 dc. 4 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in next st, 2 dc, 2 dc in next st. 6 sts
Rnd 3: 2 dc in next st, 4 dc, 2 dc in next st. 8 sts
Rnd 4: 2 dc in next st, 6 dc, 2 dc in next st. 10 sts
Rnd 5: Dc around.
Rnd 6: [2 dc in next st] twice, 8 dc. 12 sts
Rnd 7: Dc around.
Rnd 8: 1 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice, 9 dc. 14 sts
Rnds 9-10: Dc around.
Rnd 11: 2 dc, 1 dc2tog, 5 dc, 1 dc2tog, 3 dc. 12 sts
Rnds 12-13: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Side Fin to the Body once you've made all the parts.
Made from the tip of the Fin back towards the Body. Do not stuff.
Rnd 1: With MC, working into a magic ring, 4 dc. 4 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in next st, 2 dc, 2 dc in next st. 6 sts
Rnd 3: 2 dc in next st, 4 dc, 2 dc in next st. 8 sts
Rnd 4: 2 dc in next st, 6 dc, 2 dc in next st. 10 sts
Rnd 5: Dc around.
Rnd 6: [2 dc in next st] twice, 8 dc. 12 sts
Rnd 7: Dc around.
Rnd 8: 1 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice, 9 dc. 14 sts
Rnds 9-10: Dc around.
Rnd 11: 2 dc, 1 dc2tog, 5 dc, 1 dc2tog, 3 dc. 12 sts
Rnds 12-13: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Side Fin to the Body once you've made all the parts.
Big Dolphin - Top Fin
Made using joined rounds. Join each round with a sl st in BLO of beg dc, then work first st of next round into both loops of same dc as join. From the second joined round onwards, make sure you miss the sl st from the prev round, do not work into this rather than the beg dc by mistake. The sl st joins don't count in the st count. Worked from the tip of the Fin down towards the Body. The increases and decreases create the curved shape. Do not stuff.
Rnd 1: With MC, working into a magic ring, 4 dc. Join in BLO. 4 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in next st, 2 dc, 2 dc in next st. Join. 6 sts
Rnd 3: 2 dc in next st, 4 dc, 2 dc in next st. Join. 8 sts
Rnd 4: 2 dc in next st, 6 dc, 2 dc in next st. Join. 10 sts
Rnd 5: 2 dc in next st, 2 dc, 2 dc2tog, 2 dc, 2 dc in next st. Join. 10 sts
Rnd 6: 2 dc in next st, 8 dc, 2 dc in next st. Join. 12 sts
Rnd 7: 2 dc in next st, 3 dc, 2 dc2tog, 3 dc, 2 dc in next st. Join. 12 sts
Rnd 8: 2 dc in next st, 10 dc, 2 dc in next st, Join with sl st in both loops of beg dc. 14 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Top Fin to the Body once you've made all the parts.
Made using joined rounds. Join each round with a sl st in BLO of beg dc, then work first st of next round into both loops of same dc as join. From the second joined round onwards, make sure you miss the sl st from the prev round, do not work into this rather than the beg dc by mistake. The sl st joins don't count in the st count. Worked from the tip of the Fin down towards the Body. The increases and decreases create the curved shape. Do not stuff.
Rnd 1: With MC, working into a magic ring, 4 dc. Join in BLO. 4 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in next st, 2 dc, 2 dc in next st. Join. 6 sts
Rnd 3: 2 dc in next st, 4 dc, 2 dc in next st. Join. 8 sts
Rnd 4: 2 dc in next st, 6 dc, 2 dc in next st. Join. 10 sts
Rnd 5: 2 dc in next st, 2 dc, 2 dc2tog, 2 dc, 2 dc in next st. Join. 10 sts
Rnd 6: 2 dc in next st, 8 dc, 2 dc in next st. Join. 12 sts
Rnd 7: 2 dc in next st, 3 dc, 2 dc2tog, 3 dc, 2 dc in next st. Join. 12 sts
Rnd 8: 2 dc in next st, 10 dc, 2 dc in next st, Join with sl st in both loops of beg dc. 14 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Top Fin to the Body once you've made all the parts.
Crochet Big Dolphin - eye detail
Big Dolphin - Eyes - make 2
Rnd 1: With CC2, working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Change to CC1.
Rnd 2: Sl st around in BLO, join with sl st into beg sl st.
Fasten off. Leave a long CC1 yarn tail to sew the Eye to the Body once you've made all the parts. The CC2 yarn tails can be woven in when the Eyes are stitched in place.
Rnd 1: With CC2, working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Change to CC1.
Rnd 2: Sl st around in BLO, join with sl st into beg sl st.
Fasten off. Leave a long CC1 yarn tail to sew the Eye to the Body once you've made all the parts. The CC2 yarn tails can be woven in when the Eyes are stitched in place.
Crochet Big Dolphin - back right
Big Dolphin - Making Up
- Using the photographs as a guide, pin the pieces together before sewing, checking from all angles to make sure you’re happy with the positioning, then use the long yarn tails or a length of yarn with a yarn needle to stitch the pieces together.
- There's a Photo Tutorial about sewing Amigurumi parts together seamlessly HERE.
- Before you start positioning the pieces, you may find it helpful to insert a line of pins running down the front centre line of the Body, taking them under the base and up the back - this will help you to position everything else evenly in relation to the central line. Remove any pins that are in the way of the pieces you are attaching as you go.
- If the previous paragraph has confused you, there's a Photo Tutorial about using Pin Lines to help position amigurumi parts on the website - you can find it HERE.
- Sew the Underside Patch to the flat side of the Body.
- Sew the Top Fin to the top of the Body. Its front edge should sit roughly in line with Rnd 22 of the Body.
- Sew the Side Fins in place on the sides of the Body, making sure to angle them as shown in the photos. The front edge of the fin should sit just above the edge of the Underside Patch and should be roughly in line with Rnd 17 of the Body.
- Sew the Eyes in place on either side of the Head. Their front edges should sit roughly in line with Rnd 9 of the Body.
Big Dolphin - Embroidered Details
Use a length of CC1with a yarn needle to embroider the single stitch highlight onto the Eyes.
Use a length of CC2 to embroider the mouth.
Use a length of CC1with a yarn needle to embroider the single stitch highlight onto the Eyes.
Use a length of CC2 to embroider the mouth.
Baby Dolphin - right side
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Baby Dolphin - tail detail
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Baby Dolphin - Body
Worked from the nose back to the tail. Stuff as you go. See Increasing and Decreasing instructions on page 3 for how to work "htr2tog" in Rnd 32.
Rnd 1: With MC, working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: Dc around.
Rnd 3: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] twice. 8 sts
Rnds 4-5: Dc around.
Rnd 6: [2 dc in next st] 4 times, 4 dc. 12 sts
Rnd 7: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 4 times, 4 dc. 16 sts
Rnd 8: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 4 times, 4 dc. 20 sts
Rnds 9-10: Dc around.
Rnd 11: [2 dc in next st, 4 dc] 4 times. 24 sts
Rnds 12-16: Dc around.
Rnd 17: 9 dc, [1 dc2tog, 2 dc] twice, 1 dc2tog, 5 dc. 21 sts
Rnd 18: Dc around.
Rnd 19: 10 dc, [1 dc2tog, 1 dc] twice, 1 dc2tog, 3 dc. 18 sts
Rnd 20: Dc around.
Rnd 21: 6 dc, [1 dc2tog, 2 dc] twice, 1 dc2tog, 2 dc. 15 sts
Rnd 22: Dc around.
Rnd 23: 6 dc, [1 dc2tog, 1 dc] twice, 1 dc2tog, 1 dc. 12 sts
Rnd 24: Dc around.
Rnd 25: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnd 26: Dc around.
Rnd 27: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 6 sts
Rnd 28: Dc around.
Rnd 29: * 1 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice; rep from * once more. 10 sts
Rnd 30: 2 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice, 3 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice, 1 dc. 14 sts
Rnd 31: 2 dc, [2 dc in next st] 4 times, 2 dc, [2 dc in next st] 4 times, 2 dc. 22 sts
Rnd 32: 3 dc, 2 htr, 1 htr2tog, 2 htr, 5 dc, 2 htr, 1 htr2tog, 2 htr, 2 dc. 20 sts
Fasten off. Flatten tail and use the yarn tail to sew the top of the last round closed. Weave in end.
Worked from the nose back to the tail. Stuff as you go. See Increasing and Decreasing instructions on page 3 for how to work "htr2tog" in Rnd 32.
Rnd 1: With MC, working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: Dc around.
Rnd 3: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] twice. 8 sts
Rnds 4-5: Dc around.
Rnd 6: [2 dc in next st] 4 times, 4 dc. 12 sts
Rnd 7: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 4 times, 4 dc. 16 sts
Rnd 8: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 4 times, 4 dc. 20 sts
Rnds 9-10: Dc around.
Rnd 11: [2 dc in next st, 4 dc] 4 times. 24 sts
Rnds 12-16: Dc around.
Rnd 17: 9 dc, [1 dc2tog, 2 dc] twice, 1 dc2tog, 5 dc. 21 sts
Rnd 18: Dc around.
Rnd 19: 10 dc, [1 dc2tog, 1 dc] twice, 1 dc2tog, 3 dc. 18 sts
Rnd 20: Dc around.
Rnd 21: 6 dc, [1 dc2tog, 2 dc] twice, 1 dc2tog, 2 dc. 15 sts
Rnd 22: Dc around.
Rnd 23: 6 dc, [1 dc2tog, 1 dc] twice, 1 dc2tog, 1 dc. 12 sts
Rnd 24: Dc around.
Rnd 25: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnd 26: Dc around.
Rnd 27: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 6 sts
Rnd 28: Dc around.
Rnd 29: * 1 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice; rep from * once more. 10 sts
Rnd 30: 2 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice, 3 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice, 1 dc. 14 sts
Rnd 31: 2 dc, [2 dc in next st] 4 times, 2 dc, [2 dc in next st] 4 times, 2 dc. 22 sts
Rnd 32: 3 dc, 2 htr, 1 htr2tog, 2 htr, 5 dc, 2 htr, 1 htr2tog, 2 htr, 2 dc. 20 sts
Fasten off. Flatten tail and use the yarn tail to sew the top of the last round closed. Weave in end.
Baby Dolphin - Underside Patch
Worked flat in turned rows, starting at the tail end and working up towards nose. The turning chains at the start of each round aren't included in the stitch count.
With CC1, chain 3.
Row 1: Starting in second chain from hook, 2 dc. Turn. 2 sts
Row 2: 1 ch, dc across. Turn.
Row 3: 1 ch, [2 dc in next st] twice. Turn. 4 sts
Rows 4-5: 1 ch, dc across. Turn.
Row 6: 1 ch, 2 dc in next st, 2 dc, 2 dc in next st. Turn. 6 sts
Rows 7-8: 1 ch, dc across, Turn.
Row 9: 1 ch, 2 dc in next st, 4 dc, 2 dc in next st. Turn. 8 sts
Rows 10-13: 1 ch, dc across. Turn.
Row 14: 1 ch, 1 dc2tog, 4 dc, 1 dc2tog. Turn. 6 sts
Rows 15-18: 1 ch, dc across. Turn.
Row 19: 1 ch, 1 dc2tog, 2 dc, 1 dc2tog. Turn. 4 sts
Rows 20-24: 1 ch, dc across. Turn.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Underside Patch to the Body once you've made all the parts.
Worked flat in turned rows, starting at the tail end and working up towards nose. The turning chains at the start of each round aren't included in the stitch count.
With CC1, chain 3.
Row 1: Starting in second chain from hook, 2 dc. Turn. 2 sts
Row 2: 1 ch, dc across. Turn.
Row 3: 1 ch, [2 dc in next st] twice. Turn. 4 sts
Rows 4-5: 1 ch, dc across. Turn.
Row 6: 1 ch, 2 dc in next st, 2 dc, 2 dc in next st. Turn. 6 sts
Rows 7-8: 1 ch, dc across, Turn.
Row 9: 1 ch, 2 dc in next st, 4 dc, 2 dc in next st. Turn. 8 sts
Rows 10-13: 1 ch, dc across. Turn.
Row 14: 1 ch, 1 dc2tog, 4 dc, 1 dc2tog. Turn. 6 sts
Rows 15-18: 1 ch, dc across. Turn.
Row 19: 1 ch, 1 dc2tog, 2 dc, 1 dc2tog. Turn. 4 sts
Rows 20-24: 1 ch, dc across. Turn.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Underside Patch to the Body once you've made all the parts.
Baby Dolphin - back right side
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Baby Dolphin - front view
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Baby Dolphin - Side Fins - make 2
Made from the tip of the Fin back towards the Body. Do not stuff.
Rnd 1: With MC, working into a magic ring, 4 dc. 4 sts
Rnd 2: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] twice. 6 sts
Rnd 3: 2 dc in next st, 4 dc, 2 dc in next st. 8 sts
Rnds 4-5: Dc around.
Rnd 6: 5 dc, 1 dc2tog, 1 dc. 7 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail top sew the Side Fin to the Body once you've made all the parts.
Made from the tip of the Fin back towards the Body. Do not stuff.
Rnd 1: With MC, working into a magic ring, 4 dc. 4 sts
Rnd 2: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] twice. 6 sts
Rnd 3: 2 dc in next st, 4 dc, 2 dc in next st. 8 sts
Rnds 4-5: Dc around.
Rnd 6: 5 dc, 1 dc2tog, 1 dc. 7 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail top sew the Side Fin to the Body once you've made all the parts.
Baby Dolphin - Top Fin
Made from the tip of the Fin down towards the Body. Do not stuff.
Rnd 1: With MC, working into a magic ring, 4 dc. 4 sts
Rnd 2: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] twice. 6 sts
Rnd 3: Dc around.
Rnd 4: 2 dc in next st, 4 dc, 2 dc in next st. 8 sts
Rnd 5: 2 dc in next st, 6 dc, 2 dc in next st. 10 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail top sew the Top Fin to the Body once you've made all the parts.
Made from the tip of the Fin down towards the Body. Do not stuff.
Rnd 1: With MC, working into a magic ring, 4 dc. 4 sts
Rnd 2: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] twice. 6 sts
Rnd 3: Dc around.
Rnd 4: 2 dc in next st, 4 dc, 2 dc in next st. 8 sts
Rnd 5: 2 dc in next st, 6 dc, 2 dc in next st. 10 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail top sew the Top Fin to the Body once you've made all the parts.
Baby Dolphin Eyes - make 2
Rnd 1: With CC2, working into a magic ring, 4 dc, join with a sl st in beg dc. 4 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Eye to the Body once you've made all the parts.
Rnd 1: With CC2, working into a magic ring, 4 dc, join with a sl st in beg dc. 4 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Eye to the Body once you've made all the parts.
Baby Dolphin - back view
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Baby Dolphin - Underside
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Baby Dolphin - Making Up
See the Making Up section for the Big Dolphin - page 8 - for notes and links about positioning parts and sewing amigurumi together neatly.
See the Making Up section for the Big Dolphin - page 8 - for notes and links about positioning parts and sewing amigurumi together neatly.
- Sew the Underside Patch to the underneath of the Body, with its front edge in line with the first round of the Body.
- Sew the Top Fin to the top of the Body, with its front edge sitting roughly in line with Rnd 11 of the Body.
- Sew the Side Fins in place on the sides of the Body, making sure to angle them as shown in the photos. The front edge of the fin should sit just above the edge of the Underside Patch and should be roughly in line with Rnd 9 of the Body.
- Sew the Eyes in place on either side of the Head. Their front edges should sit roughly in line with Rnd 6 of the Body.
Baby Dolphin - Embroidered Details
Use a length of CC1with a yarn needle to embroider the single stitch highlight onto the Pupils and to stitch round the edge of the Eyes.
Use a length of CC2 to embroider the mouth.
Use a length of CC1with a yarn needle to embroider the single stitch highlight onto the Pupils and to stitch round the edge of the Eyes.
Use a length of CC2 to embroider the mouth.
Terms of Use
I am happy for you to donate, gift or sell any of the my crochet chums you make if you are an individual crafter - please credit mycrochetchums.com as the pattern designer. The patterns can not be used for any type of mass production or manufacturing.
If you do wish to sell your my crochet chums, it is your responsibility to ensure that the finished item complies with the relevant toy safety legislation in your country.
Please be sure to use toy grade stuffing and do not add buttons, bells, ribbons etc that could be a danger to small children.
You may print your PDF for personal use only (not for redistribution).
The patterns, files and all images are copyright protected and are not for commercial use. No part of the patterns may be sold, reproduced, transmitted, broadcast, translated, used for derivative works or published in any form.
I am happy for you to donate, gift or sell any of the my crochet chums you make if you are an individual crafter - please credit mycrochetchums.com as the pattern designer. The patterns can not be used for any type of mass production or manufacturing.
If you do wish to sell your my crochet chums, it is your responsibility to ensure that the finished item complies with the relevant toy safety legislation in your country.
Please be sure to use toy grade stuffing and do not add buttons, bells, ribbons etc that could be a danger to small children.
You may print your PDF for personal use only (not for redistribution).
The patterns, files and all images are copyright protected and are not for commercial use. No part of the patterns may be sold, reproduced, transmitted, broadcast, translated, used for derivative works or published in any form.
About mycrochetchums
I started mycrochetchums at the end of 2020 to give me something to focus on during lockdown and to make creative use of a box of Amigurumi Yarn that was an impulse purchase I was feeling guilty about! I enjoyed it so much that when the world got back to "normal" I carried on.
I’m loving creating these cute characters and sharpening my tech skills in the process as I wrangle with managing a website and social media.
Check out the mycrochetchums Facebook page - drop me a message there if you have any feedback about the pattern or would like to share a picture of the end result.
You can also find me on Instagram @mycrochetchums.
If you have any questions about any of my patterns (or any other ami you may be working on) please email me at: [email protected] - I’ll do my best to help!
Happy Crocheting!
Pia x
©2023PIA SIMPSON/ MYCROCHETCHUMS
I started mycrochetchums at the end of 2020 to give me something to focus on during lockdown and to make creative use of a box of Amigurumi Yarn that was an impulse purchase I was feeling guilty about! I enjoyed it so much that when the world got back to "normal" I carried on.
I’m loving creating these cute characters and sharpening my tech skills in the process as I wrangle with managing a website and social media.
Check out the mycrochetchums Facebook page - drop me a message there if you have any feedback about the pattern or would like to share a picture of the end result.
You can also find me on Instagram @mycrochetchums.
If you have any questions about any of my patterns (or any other ami you may be working on) please email me at: [email protected] - I’ll do my best to help!
Happy Crocheting!
Pia x
©2023PIA SIMPSON/ MYCROCHETCHUMS
