#lockdownamichallenge - No 11 - Bunny
#lockdownamichallenge Bunny
Yarn
Aldi So Crafty Knit & Purl Amigurumi Yarn - described on the box as "Light" - Equivalent to DK.
40g approx Light Blue (MC) for Body, Head, Muzzle, Ears, Arms and Legs.
20g approx Pale Yellow (CC1) for Nose, Belly Patch, Foot Pads and Tail.
Small amount of Dark Grey (CC2) for Eyes, Mouth and Claws.
Small amount of White (CC3) for Eye Highlight.
100% Cotton 25g = 57.5m
A cotton yarn works well for Ami as it gives good stitch definition and creates a firm structure so body parts hold their shape well. Any cotton/cotton mix DK should give similar results.
Aldi So Crafty Knit & Purl Amigurumi Yarn - described on the box as "Light" - Equivalent to DK.
40g approx Light Blue (MC) for Body, Head, Muzzle, Ears, Arms and Legs.
20g approx Pale Yellow (CC1) for Nose, Belly Patch, Foot Pads and Tail.
Small amount of Dark Grey (CC2) for Eyes, Mouth and Claws.
Small amount of White (CC3) for Eye Highlight.
100% Cotton 25g = 57.5m
A cotton yarn works well for Ami as it gives good stitch definition and creates a firm structure so body parts hold their shape well. Any cotton/cotton mix DK should give similar results.
Hook
3 mm
3 mm
Other Supplies
Yarn needle, toy stuffing, stitch marker/waste yarn.
Tension
Tension is not critical for this project but stitches should be tight enough to avoid stuffing showing through.
Size
Approx 23 cm (9in) from top of ears to bottom of feet.
Pattern Notes
Unless otherwise specified this pattern is worked in the amigurumi style, in a continuous spiral without slip stitching or turning chains.
Use a stitch marker or waste yarn to keep track of the first stitch of each round.
If you do not want to make a Magic Ring you can start each piece by making a chain of 2 and then work the first round into the second chain from the hook.
If you would like to start with a Magic Ring but don’t know how, you can find a Photo Tutorial at: https://mycrochetchums.weebly.com/magic-ring-photo-tutorial.html
The Bunny is made of multiple separate pieces sewn together. Unless otherwise stated, finish each piece by pulling the yarn through the last loop and leave a long tail for sewing. Any loose tails at the end can be easily woven in.
Starting chains do not count in the total stitch count.
Change colour on the last yrh on last stitch of previous round.
Yarn needle, toy stuffing, stitch marker/waste yarn.
Tension
Tension is not critical for this project but stitches should be tight enough to avoid stuffing showing through.
Size
Approx 23 cm (9in) from top of ears to bottom of feet.
Pattern Notes
Unless otherwise specified this pattern is worked in the amigurumi style, in a continuous spiral without slip stitching or turning chains.
Use a stitch marker or waste yarn to keep track of the first stitch of each round.
If you do not want to make a Magic Ring you can start each piece by making a chain of 2 and then work the first round into the second chain from the hook.
If you would like to start with a Magic Ring but don’t know how, you can find a Photo Tutorial at: https://mycrochetchums.weebly.com/magic-ring-photo-tutorial.html
The Bunny is made of multiple separate pieces sewn together. Unless otherwise stated, finish each piece by pulling the yarn through the last loop and leave a long tail for sewing. Any loose tails at the end can be easily woven in.
Starting chains do not count in the total stitch count.
Change colour on the last yrh on last stitch of previous round.
Increasing and decreasing
The “invisible” techniques below are recommended to give your amigurumi a neat finish:
Invisible Increase: Work 1 dc in FLO of next st and 1 dc in both loops of same st.
Invisible decrease: Insert hook in FLO of the two stitches to be decreased, yrh, pull through both front loops, yrh, draw through two loops on hook.
The “invisible” techniques below are recommended to give your amigurumi a neat finish:
Invisible Increase: Work 1 dc in FLO of next st and 1 dc in both loops of same st.
Invisible decrease: Insert hook in FLO of the two stitches to be decreased, yrh, pull through both front loops, yrh, draw through two loops on hook.
UK Crochet Terms - Abbreviations
This pattern is written using UK Crochet Terms - they are NOT the same as US ones - please familiarise yourself with the UK terms to avoid your character’s shape distorting!
The “dc” abbreviation used in this pattern refers to UK double crochet. The equivalent stitch in US terms is single crochet - if you are used to US patterns you need to work single crochet everywhere this pattern says “dc”. If you work US dc (equivalent to UK Treble) the finished item will be elongated and the stuffing will show through.
If any of the abbreviations used in this pattern are unfamiliar, you can find a chart of UK Terms HERE.
This pattern uses UK Terms -if you are used to working in US Crochet Terms you can find a conversion chart HERE.
This pattern is written using UK Crochet Terms - they are NOT the same as US ones - please familiarise yourself with the UK terms to avoid your character’s shape distorting!
The “dc” abbreviation used in this pattern refers to UK double crochet. The equivalent stitch in US terms is single crochet - if you are used to US patterns you need to work single crochet everywhere this pattern says “dc”. If you work US dc (equivalent to UK Treble) the finished item will be elongated and the stuffing will show through.
If any of the abbreviations used in this pattern are unfamiliar, you can find a chart of UK Terms HERE.
This pattern uses UK Terms -if you are used to working in US Crochet Terms you can find a conversion chart HERE.
Bunny Right Front
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Bunny Left Side
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Body
Stuff the Body as you go.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 6: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnds 7-12: Dc around.
Rnd 13: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnds 14-15: Dc around.
Rnd 16: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnds 17-18: Dc around.
Rnd 19: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 20: Dc around.
Fasten off.
Stuff the Body as you go.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 6: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnds 7-12: Dc around.
Rnd 13: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnds 14-15: Dc around.
Rnd 16: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnds 17-18: Dc around.
Rnd 19: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 20: Dc around.
Fasten off.
Head
If you are unfamiliar with starting an ami pattern with a chain, check out the Oval Start Photo Tutorial HERE.
Stuff the Head as you go.
With MC, chain 4.
Rnd 1: Starting in 2nd chain from hook and rotating as you go, [3dc, 2 ch] twice. 6 sts
Rnd 2: [3 dc, 3 dc in 2 ch-sp] twice. 12 sts
Rnd 3: *3 dc, [2 dc in next st] 3 times; rep from * once more. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 6: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnd 7: Dc around.
Rnd 8: [5 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 42 sts
Rnds 9-10: Dc around.
Rnd 11: [5 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnds 12-13: Dc around.
Rnd 14: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnds 15-16: Dc around.
Rnd 17: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 18: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 19: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnd 20: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Fasten off, use yarn tail and pull up to close up the last round and weave in end.
If you are unfamiliar with starting an ami pattern with a chain, check out the Oval Start Photo Tutorial HERE.
Stuff the Head as you go.
With MC, chain 4.
Rnd 1: Starting in 2nd chain from hook and rotating as you go, [3dc, 2 ch] twice. 6 sts
Rnd 2: [3 dc, 3 dc in 2 ch-sp] twice. 12 sts
Rnd 3: *3 dc, [2 dc in next st] 3 times; rep from * once more. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 6: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnd 7: Dc around.
Rnd 8: [5 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 42 sts
Rnds 9-10: Dc around.
Rnd 11: [5 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnds 12-13: Dc around.
Rnd 14: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnds 15-16: Dc around.
Rnd 17: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 18: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 19: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnd 20: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Fasten off, use yarn tail and pull up to close up the last round and weave in end.
Ear - make 2
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc in next st, 4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 24 sts
Rnds 5-7: Dc around.
Rnd 8: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnds 9-11: Dc around.
Rnd 12: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnds 13-15: Dc around.
Rnd 16: {2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnd 17: Dc around.
Fasten off.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc in next st, 4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 24 sts
Rnds 5-7: Dc around.
Rnd 8: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnds 9-11: Dc around.
Rnd 12: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnds 13-15: Dc around.
Rnd 16: {2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnd 17: Dc around.
Fasten off.
Muzzle
With MC, chain 4.
Rnd 1: Starting in 2nd chain from hook and rotating as you go, [3dc, 2 ch] twice. 6 sts
Rnd 2: [3 dc, 3 dc in 2 ch-sp] twice. 12 sts
Rnd 3: *3 dc, [2 dc in next st] 3 times; rep from * once more. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [5 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 21 sts
Rnd 5: Dc around. (Please note this round was omitted from earlier versions of this pattern - rookie error, sorry!)
Fasten off, stuff.
With MC, chain 4.
Rnd 1: Starting in 2nd chain from hook and rotating as you go, [3dc, 2 ch] twice. 6 sts
Rnd 2: [3 dc, 3 dc in 2 ch-sp] twice. 12 sts
Rnd 3: *3 dc, [2 dc in next st] 3 times; rep from * once more. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [5 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 21 sts
Rnd 5: Dc around. (Please note this round was omitted from earlier versions of this pattern - rookie error, sorry!)
Fasten off, stuff.
Nose
Rnd 1: With CC1 and working into a magic ring, 4 dc. 4 sts
Rnd 2: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] twice. 6 sts
Rnd 3: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] twice. 8 sts
Rnd 4: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] twice. 10 sts
Fasten off, fold flat and stitch across the top to join, leaving a long yarn tail for sewing onto muzzle later.
Rnd 1: With CC1 and working into a magic ring, 4 dc. 4 sts
Rnd 2: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] twice. 6 sts
Rnd 3: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] twice. 8 sts
Rnd 4: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] twice. 10 sts
Fasten off, fold flat and stitch across the top to join, leaving a long yarn tail for sewing onto muzzle later.
Eye - make 2
Rnd 1: With CC2 and working into a magic ring, 4 dc. Sl st in first dc to join.
Fasten off.
Rnd 1: With CC2 and working into a magic ring, 4 dc. Sl st in first dc to join.
Fasten off.
Belly Patch
Rnd 1: With CC1 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: Dc around.
Fasten off.
Rnd 1: With CC1 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: Dc around.
Fasten off.
Arm - make 2
Stuff the arm as you go.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 15 sts
Rnds 4-7: Dc around.
Rnd 8: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 12 sts
Rnds 9-10: Dc around.
Rnd 11: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnds 12-13: Dc around.
Rnd 14: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 6 sts
Rnd 15: Dc around.
Fasten off.
Stuff the arm as you go.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 15 sts
Rnds 4-7: Dc around.
Rnd 8: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 12 sts
Rnds 9-10: Dc around.
Rnd 11: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnds 12-13: Dc around.
Rnd 14: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 6 sts
Rnd 15: Dc around.
Fasten off.
Leg - make 2
Stuff the Leg as you go.
With MC, chain 7.
Rnd 1: Starting in 2nd chain from hook and rotating as you go, [6 dc, 2 ch] twice. 12 sts
Rnd 2: [6 dc, 4 dc in 2 ch-sp] twice. 20 sts
Rnd 3: *6 dc, [2 dc in next st] 4 times; rep from * once more. 28 sts
Rnd 4: 8 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice, 1 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice, 9 dc, * [2 dc in next st] twice, 1 dc; rep from * once more. 36 sts
Rnd 5: Dc around.
Rnd 6: 5 dc, [1 dc2tog, 1 dc] 5 times, 1 dc2tog, 14 dc. 30 sts
Rnd 7: 2 dc, [1 dc2tog, 1 dc] 5 times, 1 dc2tog. 11 dc. 24 sts
Rnd 8: 1 dc, 6 dc2tog, 11 dc. 18 sts
Rnd 9: 6 dc2tog, 6 dc. 12 sts
Rnds 10-12: Dc around.
Rnd 13: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnd 14: Dc around.
Fasten off.
Stuff the Leg as you go.
With MC, chain 7.
Rnd 1: Starting in 2nd chain from hook and rotating as you go, [6 dc, 2 ch] twice. 12 sts
Rnd 2: [6 dc, 4 dc in 2 ch-sp] twice. 20 sts
Rnd 3: *6 dc, [2 dc in next st] 4 times; rep from * once more. 28 sts
Rnd 4: 8 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice, 1 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice, 9 dc, * [2 dc in next st] twice, 1 dc; rep from * once more. 36 sts
Rnd 5: Dc around.
Rnd 6: 5 dc, [1 dc2tog, 1 dc] 5 times, 1 dc2tog, 14 dc. 30 sts
Rnd 7: 2 dc, [1 dc2tog, 1 dc] 5 times, 1 dc2tog. 11 dc. 24 sts
Rnd 8: 1 dc, 6 dc2tog, 11 dc. 18 sts
Rnd 9: 6 dc2tog, 6 dc. 12 sts
Rnds 10-12: Dc around.
Rnd 13: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnd 14: Dc around.
Fasten off.
Foot Pad
With CC1, chain 7
Rnd 1: Starting in 2nd chain from hook and rotating as you go, [6 dc, 2 ch] twice. 12 sts
Rnd 2: [6 dc, 3 dc in 2 ch-sp] twice. 18 sts
Rnd 3: *6 dc, [2 dc in next st] 3 times; rep from * once more. 24 sts
Fasten off.
With CC1, chain 7
Rnd 1: Starting in 2nd chain from hook and rotating as you go, [6 dc, 2 ch] twice. 12 sts
Rnd 2: [6 dc, 3 dc in 2 ch-sp] twice. 18 sts
Rnd 3: *6 dc, [2 dc in next st] 3 times; rep from * once more. 24 sts
Fasten off.
Tail
The tail is worked in two parts, Rnds 1-5 (worked in the back loop only) create the basic rounded shape, in Rnd 6 you work back up the first 5 rounds, working in the unused front loops to create the frilly finish.
Chains are not counted in stitch count.
Rnd 1: With CC1 and working in a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: Working in BLO, 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: Working in BLO, [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: Working in BLO, dc around.
Rnd 5: Working in BLO, dc around. Turn.
Rnd 6: *2ch, 1 sl st in unused FLO; rep from * in each unused front loop back up the piece to the start of Rnd 1. 72 sts (chains are not counted).
Fasten off, stuff tail.
The tail is worked in two parts, Rnds 1-5 (worked in the back loop only) create the basic rounded shape, in Rnd 6 you work back up the first 5 rounds, working in the unused front loops to create the frilly finish.
Chains are not counted in stitch count.
Rnd 1: With CC1 and working in a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: Working in BLO, 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: Working in BLO, [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: Working in BLO, dc around.
Rnd 5: Working in BLO, dc around. Turn.
Rnd 6: *2ch, 1 sl st in unused FLO; rep from * in each unused front loop back up the piece to the start of Rnd 1. 72 sts (chains are not counted).
Fasten off, stuff tail.
Making Up
Using the photographs as a guide, pin the pieces together first, using the long yarn tails or a length of yarn with a yarn needle to stitch the pieces together.
Sew the Body onto the Head (the pointed end of the Head where you closed off Rnd 20 is the top). Sew the Muzzle onto the Head, centred on one of the flat sides of the head, with the base of the Muzzle sitting approx in line with Rnd 6 of the Head.
Sew the Nose in place, centred on the Muzzle. Sew the Eyes approx 4 stitches apart, roughly in line with Rnd 12 of the head.
Using the photographs as a guide, pin the pieces together first, using the long yarn tails or a length of yarn with a yarn needle to stitch the pieces together.
Sew the Body onto the Head (the pointed end of the Head where you closed off Rnd 20 is the top). Sew the Muzzle onto the Head, centred on one of the flat sides of the head, with the base of the Muzzle sitting approx in line with Rnd 6 of the Head.
Sew the Nose in place, centred on the Muzzle. Sew the Eyes approx 4 stitches apart, roughly in line with Rnd 12 of the head.
Bunny Face Detail
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Bunny Ear Detail
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Bunny Feet Detail
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Fold the bottom of each Ear in half and stitch across the bottom and up the front by a couple of rounds to hold the folded shape in place, then attach the Ears to the top of the Head.
Sew the Arms in place either side of the Body roughly in line with Rnd 19 of the Body.
With the bottom of the Belly Patch sitting roughly in line with Rnd 6 of the Body, sew it into position on the front of the Body.
Sew the Legs into position, roughly in line with Rnd 4 of the Body, set forward so the Bunny can sit down.
Lastly, sew the Tail in position on the back of the Body with the bottom of it roughly in line with Rnd 4 of the body.
Sew the Arms in place either side of the Body roughly in line with Rnd 19 of the Body.
With the bottom of the Belly Patch sitting roughly in line with Rnd 6 of the Body, sew it into position on the front of the Body.
Sew the Legs into position, roughly in line with Rnd 4 of the Body, set forward so the Bunny can sit down.
Lastly, sew the Tail in position on the back of the Body with the bottom of it roughly in line with Rnd 4 of the body.
Bunny Tail Detail
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Bunny Paw Detail
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Bunny Base Detail
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Embroidered Details
Using the photos as a guide, use CC2 to embroider the mouth onto the Muzzle, and the claw detail onto the Arms and Feet. Use CC3 to add the highlights to the Eyes.
All done!
Using the photos as a guide, use CC2 to embroider the mouth onto the Muzzle, and the claw detail onto the Arms and Feet. Use CC3 to add the highlights to the Eyes.
All done!
Bunny Back
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Bunny Belly Detail
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Bunny Front
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Terms of Use
I am happy for you to donate, gift or sell any of the my crochet chums you make if you are an individual crafter - please credit mycrochetchums.weebly.com as the designer.
If you do wish to sell your my crochet chums, it is your responsibility to ensure that the finished item complies with the relevant toy legislation in your country.
Please be sure to use toy grade stuffing and do not add buttons, bells, ribbons etc that could be a danger to small children.
The patterns are copyright protected and are not for commercial use. They cannot be sold, transmitted, distributed or reproduced in any form or by any means. I’ve worked hard to create the designs - please don’t sell my patterns - it’s just plain mean!
©PIA SIMPSON/ MYCROCHETCHUMS 2021
I am happy for you to donate, gift or sell any of the my crochet chums you make if you are an individual crafter - please credit mycrochetchums.weebly.com as the designer.
If you do wish to sell your my crochet chums, it is your responsibility to ensure that the finished item complies with the relevant toy legislation in your country.
Please be sure to use toy grade stuffing and do not add buttons, bells, ribbons etc that could be a danger to small children.
The patterns are copyright protected and are not for commercial use. They cannot be sold, transmitted, distributed or reproduced in any form or by any means. I’ve worked hard to create the designs - please don’t sell my patterns - it’s just plain mean!
©PIA SIMPSON/ MYCROCHETCHUMS 2021
