Walter the Walrus - Part Two
Adorable World of Arctic Animals CAL
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This pattern uses US Crochet Terms
for the UK Terms version click HERE |
Welcome to Part Two of Walter the Walrus!
Missed Part One? - No problem, you can find it HERE.
I hope you enjoyed making Walter's Head, Body and Front Flippers in Part one of the CAL. Now we're moving onto his Back Flippers, Muzzle, Tusks, Eyes and Nose.
If you prefer to work from a printed pattern, all four of the CAL patterns are still available as a PDF Bundle to buy, just click the button below (this is an affiliate link - I'll earn a small commission.)
If you prefer to work from a printed pattern, all four of the CAL patterns are still available as a PDF Bundle to buy, just click the button below (this is an affiliate link - I'll earn a small commission.)
Walter is made on a 4mm Hook using Worsted (Aran) weight 100% Acrylic yarn.
A reminder of the colors…
MC: Parchment 2010 - for Head, Body, Flippers and Muzzle.
CC1: White 1001 - for Tusks, Eye highlights and Back detail.
CC2: Tawny 1064 - for Eyes, Nose and Embroidered Details.
CC3: Ocean 2015 - for Hat and Scarf.
CC4: Chartreuse 1822 - for Hat and Scarf.
If you're late to the party, don't worry, full details re Yarn, Hook, Techniques etc are in Part One, just click HERE.
US Crochet Terms - Abbreviations
This pattern is written using US Crochet Terms - they are NOT the same as UK ones! If you usually use UK terms, please familiarise yourself with the US terms to avoid your character’s shape distorting.
The “sc” abbreviation used in this pattern refers to US single crochet. The equivalent stitch in UK terms is known as double crochet - if you are used to UK patterns you need to work UK double crochet everywhere this pattern says “sc”.
You can find a UK Terms version of the pattern HERE.
A reminder of the colors…
MC: Parchment 2010 - for Head, Body, Flippers and Muzzle.
CC1: White 1001 - for Tusks, Eye highlights and Back detail.
CC2: Tawny 1064 - for Eyes, Nose and Embroidered Details.
CC3: Ocean 2015 - for Hat and Scarf.
CC4: Chartreuse 1822 - for Hat and Scarf.
If you're late to the party, don't worry, full details re Yarn, Hook, Techniques etc are in Part One, just click HERE.
US Crochet Terms - Abbreviations
This pattern is written using US Crochet Terms - they are NOT the same as UK ones! If you usually use UK terms, please familiarise yourself with the US terms to avoid your character’s shape distorting.
The “sc” abbreviation used in this pattern refers to US single crochet. The equivalent stitch in UK terms is known as double crochet - if you are used to UK patterns you need to work UK double crochet everywhere this pattern says “sc”.
You can find a UK Terms version of the pattern HERE.
Share your progress! Post a picture in the Crochet with the Crochet Wizzard Facebook Group or tag @crochetwizzardcal on Instagram!
Let's get crocheting!...
In this part you'll be making Walter's Rear Flippers, Muzzle, Tusk, Eyes and Nose.
In this part you'll be making Walter's Rear Flippers, Muzzle, Tusk, Eyes and Nose.
Don't forget - it's best to make all the pieces first before sewing anything together - full Making Up instructions will be included in Part Three, available on Feb 12th 2023.
Rear Flippers - make 2
Do not stuff. This piece begins with an oval start rather than a magic circle, if you are unfamiliar with this technique, there's a photo tutorial showing the principle of it HERE. The chains are not included in the stitch count.
With MC, chain 7.
Rnd 1: Starting in the second ch from the hook, 6 sc, 2 ch, rotating as you go, down the other side of the chain, work 6 sc, 2 ch. 12 sts
Rnd 2: [6 sc, 3 sc in 2 ch-sp] twice. 18 sts
Rnd 3: Sc around.
Rnd 4: 7 sc, 1 sc2tog, 9 sc. 17 sts
Rnd 5: 7 sc, 1 sc2tog, 8 sc. 16 sts
Rnd 6: 6 sc, 1 sc2tog, 8 sc. 15 sts
Rnd 7: Sc around.
Rnd 8: 6 sc, 1 sc2tog, 7 sc. 14 sts
Rnd 9: Sc around.
Rnd 10: 6 sc, 1 sc 2tog, 6 sc. 13 sts
Rnd 11: 7 sc, 1 sc2tog, 4 sc. 12 sts
Rnd 12: Sc around.
Rnd 13: [2 sc, 1 sc2tog] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnd 14: [1 sc, 1 sc2tog] 3 times. 6 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Rear Flippers to the Body once you've made all the parts.
Do not stuff. This piece begins with an oval start rather than a magic circle, if you are unfamiliar with this technique, there's a photo tutorial showing the principle of it HERE. The chains are not included in the stitch count.
With MC, chain 7.
Rnd 1: Starting in the second ch from the hook, 6 sc, 2 ch, rotating as you go, down the other side of the chain, work 6 sc, 2 ch. 12 sts
Rnd 2: [6 sc, 3 sc in 2 ch-sp] twice. 18 sts
Rnd 3: Sc around.
Rnd 4: 7 sc, 1 sc2tog, 9 sc. 17 sts
Rnd 5: 7 sc, 1 sc2tog, 8 sc. 16 sts
Rnd 6: 6 sc, 1 sc2tog, 8 sc. 15 sts
Rnd 7: Sc around.
Rnd 8: 6 sc, 1 sc2tog, 7 sc. 14 sts
Rnd 9: Sc around.
Rnd 10: 6 sc, 1 sc 2tog, 6 sc. 13 sts
Rnd 11: 7 sc, 1 sc2tog, 4 sc. 12 sts
Rnd 12: Sc around.
Rnd 13: [2 sc, 1 sc2tog] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnd 14: [1 sc, 1 sc2tog] 3 times. 6 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Rear Flippers to the Body once you've made all the parts.
Muzzle - make 2
Stuff at the end.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 sc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnds 3-4: Sc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Muzzle to the Head once you've made all the parts.
Stuff at the end.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 sc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnds 3-4: Sc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Muzzle to the Head once you've made all the parts.
Tusks - make 2
Stuff lightly as you go. Made from bottom up. The increases and decreases create the tusk's curve.
Rnd 1: With CC1 and working into a magic ring, 4 sc. 4 sts
Rnds 2-3: Sc around.
Rnd 4: 2 sc in next st, 3 dc. 5 sts
Rnd 5: 2 sc in next st, 1 sc, 1 sc2tog, 1 sc. 5 sts
Rnd 6: 1 sc, 2 sc in next st, 1 sc, 1 sc2tog. 5 sts
Rnd 7: Sc around.
Rnd 8: 1 sc2tog, 1 sc, 2 sc in next st, 1 sc. 5 sts
Rnd 9: 2 sc, 2 sc in next st, 2 sc. 6 sts
Rnd 10: 1 sc2tog, 2 sc, 2 sc in next st, 1 sc. 6 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Tusks to the Muzzle once you've made all the parts.
Stuff lightly as you go. Made from bottom up. The increases and decreases create the tusk's curve.
Rnd 1: With CC1 and working into a magic ring, 4 sc. 4 sts
Rnds 2-3: Sc around.
Rnd 4: 2 sc in next st, 3 dc. 5 sts
Rnd 5: 2 sc in next st, 1 sc, 1 sc2tog, 1 sc. 5 sts
Rnd 6: 1 sc, 2 sc in next st, 1 sc, 1 sc2tog. 5 sts
Rnd 7: Sc around.
Rnd 8: 1 sc2tog, 1 sc, 2 sc in next st, 1 sc. 5 sts
Rnd 9: 2 sc, 2 sc in next st, 2 sc. 6 sts
Rnd 10: 1 sc2tog, 2 sc, 2 sc in next st, 1 sc. 6 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Tusks to the Muzzle once you've made all the parts.
Eyes - make 2
Rnd 1: With CC2 and working into a magic ring, 4 sc, sl st in beg sc to join. 4 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Eyes to the Head once you've made all the parts.
Rnd 1: With CC2 and working into a magic ring, 4 sc, sl st in beg sc to join. 4 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Eyes to the Head once you've made all the parts.
Nose
Do not stuff.
Rnd 1: With CC2 and working into a magic ring, 6 sc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: Sc around.
Rnd 3: [1 sc, 2 sc in next st] 3 times. 9 sts
Fasten off. Flatten in half and use the yarn tail to sew the open end closed. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Nose to the Muzzle once you've made all the parts.
Do not stuff.
Rnd 1: With CC2 and working into a magic ring, 6 sc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: Sc around.
Rnd 3: [1 sc, 2 sc in next st] 3 times. 9 sts
Fasten off. Flatten in half and use the yarn tail to sew the open end closed. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Nose to the Muzzle once you've made all the parts.
What's next?
That's all for Part Two of this CAL - in Part Three (out Feb 12th 2023) you'll make his Hat and Scarf and follow the Making Up Instructions and do his Embroidered Details.
If you have a question, feel free to email me: pia@mycrochetchums.com and I'll do my best to help.
Happy Crocheting!
Pia xx
©2023PIA SIMPSON/ MYCROCHETCHUMS
That's all for Part Two of this CAL - in Part Three (out Feb 12th 2023) you'll make his Hat and Scarf and follow the Making Up Instructions and do his Embroidered Details.
If you have a question, feel free to email me: pia@mycrochetchums.com and I'll do my best to help.
Happy Crocheting!
Pia xx
©2023PIA SIMPSON/ MYCROCHETCHUMS
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