Walter the Walrus - Part One
Adorable World of Arctic Animals CAL
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This pattern uses UK Crochet Terms
for the US version click HERE |
Welcome to Part One of Walter the Walrus!
I hope you've been having great fun taking part in the #adorableworldofarcticanimalscal - Walter the Walrus is the final design.
If you prefer to work from a printed pattern, all four of the CAL patterns are still available as a PDF Bundle to buy, just click the button below (this is an affiliate link - I'll earn a small commission.) The PDF of Walter is in US Terms only.
If you prefer to work from a printed pattern, all four of the CAL patterns are still available as a PDF Bundle to buy, just click the button below (this is an affiliate link - I'll earn a small commission.) The PDF of Walter is in US Terms only.
If you don't want to buy the PDFs, the pattern will be available on here to crochet along with. Walter is an easy make based on simple amigurumi techniques.
Here's what you'll be making and when:
Here's what you'll be making and when:
- Part One - Walter's Body, Head and Front Flippers - you can start right away - just scroll down the page!
- Part Two - February 9th -his Rear Flippers, Muzzle, Tusks, Eyes and Nose..
- Part Three - February 12th -his Hat, Scarf and Making Up instructions.
Share your progress! Post a picture in the Crochet with the Crochet Wizzard Facebook Group or tag @crochetwizzardcal on Instagram!
Before you start...Supplies, Tension, Size, Pattern Notes...
Time to find those supplies!
Yarn
Scheepjes Chunky Monkey - Aran (Worsted) weight. 100% Acrylic. 116m per 100g
MC: Parchment 2010 - for Head, Body, Flippers and Muzzle.
CC1: White 1001 - for Tusks, Eye highlights and Back detail.
CC2: Tawny 1064 - for Eyes, Nose and Embroidered Details.
CC3: Ocean 2015 - for Hat and Scarf.
CC4: Chartreuse 1822 - for Hat and Scarf.
You will need 2 x 100g balls of MC and small amounts of each of the other colors.
Hook
4mm
Other Supplies
Yarn needle, toy stuffing, stitch marker/waste yarn, pins and scissors.
Scheepjes Chunky Monkey - Aran (Worsted) weight. 100% Acrylic. 116m per 100g
MC: Parchment 2010 - for Head, Body, Flippers and Muzzle.
CC1: White 1001 - for Tusks, Eye highlights and Back detail.
CC2: Tawny 1064 - for Eyes, Nose and Embroidered Details.
CC3: Ocean 2015 - for Hat and Scarf.
CC4: Chartreuse 1822 - for Hat and Scarf.
You will need 2 x 100g balls of MC and small amounts of each of the other colors.
Hook
4mm
Other Supplies
Yarn needle, toy stuffing, stitch marker/waste yarn, pins and scissors.
Tension
15 sts x 18 rows = 10cm measured over the US sc using a 4mm hook and the yarn specified above.
Tension is not critical for this project but stitches should be tight enough to avoid stuffing showing through.
Size
25cm (10 in) tall by 30 cm (12 in) long approximately.
Pattern Notes
15 sts x 18 rows = 10cm measured over the US sc using a 4mm hook and the yarn specified above.
Tension is not critical for this project but stitches should be tight enough to avoid stuffing showing through.
Size
25cm (10 in) tall by 30 cm (12 in) long approximately.
Pattern Notes
- Unless otherwise specified this pattern is worked in the amigurumi style, in a continuous spiral without slip stitching or turning chains.
- The Scarf is made using turned Rows.
- Use a stitch marker or waste yarn to keep track of the first stitch of each round. You can find a Photo Tutorial about using waste yarn as a stitch marker HERE.
- If you don't want to make a Magic Ring you can start each piece by making a chain of 2 and then work the first round into the second chain from the hook.
- If you'd like to start with a Magic Ring but don’t know how, you can find a Photo Tutorial HERE.
- It is best to make all the pieces first and sew them together at the end - full Making Up instructions will be included in Part Three.
UK Crochet Terms - Abbreviations
This pattern is written using UK Crochet Terms - they are NOT the same as US ones - please familiarise yourself with the UK terms to avoid your character’s shape distorting!
The “dc” abbreviation used in this pattern refers to UK double crochet. The equivalent stitch in US terms is single crochet - if you are used to US patterns you need to work single crochet everywhere this pattern says “dc”. If you work US dc (equivalent to UK Treble) the finished item will be elongated and the stuffing will show through.
If you prefer to work in US terms you can find the US Version of Part One HERE.
This pattern is written using UK Crochet Terms - they are NOT the same as US ones - please familiarise yourself with the UK terms to avoid your character’s shape distorting!
The “dc” abbreviation used in this pattern refers to UK double crochet. The equivalent stitch in US terms is single crochet - if you are used to US patterns you need to work single crochet everywhere this pattern says “dc”. If you work US dc (equivalent to UK Treble) the finished item will be elongated and the stuffing will show through.
If you prefer to work in US terms you can find the US Version of Part One HERE.
beg - beginning
BLO - work in back loops only
CC - contrasting colour
ch - chain
dc - double crochet (US sc - single crochet)
dc2tog - work two double crochet stitches together to reduce by 1 stitch. (US sc2tog)
FLO - work in front loops only
MC - main colour
rem - remaining
rep - repeat
sl st -slip stitch
st(s) - stitch(es)
yrh - yarn rounds hook (US yoh - yarn over hook)
BLO - work in back loops only
CC - contrasting colour
ch - chain
dc - double crochet (US sc - single crochet)
dc2tog - work two double crochet stitches together to reduce by 1 stitch. (US sc2tog)
FLO - work in front loops only
MC - main colour
rem - remaining
rep - repeat
sl st -slip stitch
st(s) - stitch(es)
yrh - yarn rounds hook (US yoh - yarn over hook)
Increasing and decreasing
You may use either standard increases and decreases in this pattern or, for a much neater finish, invisible ones. FLO = Front loop only.
Decrease - "dc2tog" in pattern.
Invisible decrease: Insert hook in FLO of the two stitches to be decreased, yrh, pull through both front loops, yrh, draw through two loops on hook.
Increase - "2 dc in next st" in pattern.
Invisible Increase: Work 1 dc in FLO of next st and 1 dc in both loops of same st.
You may use either standard increases and decreases in this pattern or, for a much neater finish, invisible ones. FLO = Front loop only.
Decrease - "dc2tog" in pattern.
Invisible decrease: Insert hook in FLO of the two stitches to be decreased, yrh, pull through both front loops, yrh, draw through two loops on hook.
Increase - "2 dc in next st" in pattern.
Invisible Increase: Work 1 dc in FLO of next st and 1 dc in both loops of same st.
Let's get started!
Head
Worked from the top down. Stuff at the end.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnds 6-13: Dc around.
Rnd 14: [9 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 33 sts
Rnds 15-17: Dc around.
Rnd 18: [10 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 36 sts
Rnds 19-21: Dc around.
Rnd 22: [11 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 39 sts
Rnds 23-24: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew Head to Body once you've made all the parts.
Worked from the top down. Stuff at the end.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnds 6-13: Dc around.
Rnd 14: [9 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 33 sts
Rnds 15-17: Dc around.
Rnd 18: [10 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 36 sts
Rnds 19-21: Dc around.
Rnd 22: [11 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 39 sts
Rnds 23-24: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew Head to Body once you've made all the parts.
Body
Made from the front to the back. Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 6: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnd 7: [5 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 42 sts
Rnd 8: Dc around.
Rnd 9: [6 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 48 sts
Rnd 10: Dc around.
Rnd 11: [7 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 54 sts
Rnds 12-14: Dc around.
Rnd 15: [7 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 48 sts
Rnds 16-18: Dc around.
Rnd 19: [6 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 42 sts
Rnds 20-22: Dc around.
Rnd 23: [5 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnds 24-25: Dc around.
Rnd 26: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnds 27-30: Dc around.
Rnd 31:[3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnds 32-34: Dc around.
Rnd 35: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnds 36-37: Dc around.
Rnd 38: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnd 39: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Fasten off. Weave yarn tail through FLO of last 6 sts and pull to close hole. Weave in end.
Made from the front to the back. Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 6: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnd 7: [5 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 42 sts
Rnd 8: Dc around.
Rnd 9: [6 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 48 sts
Rnd 10: Dc around.
Rnd 11: [7 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 54 sts
Rnds 12-14: Dc around.
Rnd 15: [7 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 48 sts
Rnds 16-18: Dc around.
Rnd 19: [6 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 42 sts
Rnds 20-22: Dc around.
Rnd 23: [5 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnds 24-25: Dc around.
Rnd 26: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnds 27-30: Dc around.
Rnd 31:[3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnds 32-34: Dc around.
Rnd 35: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnds 36-37: Dc around.
Rnd 38: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnd 39: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Fasten off. Weave yarn tail through FLO of last 6 sts and pull to close hole. Weave in end.
Front Flippers - make 2
Worked from bottom up. Stuff bottom half lightly as you go. This piece begins with an oval start rather than a magic circle, if you are unfamiliar with this technique, there's a photo tutorial showing the principle of it HERE. The chains are not included in the stitch count.
With MC, chain 7.
Rnd 1: Starting in the second ch from the hook, 6 dc, 2 ch, rotating as you go, down the other side of the chain, work 6 dc, 2 ch. 12 sts
Rnd 2: [6 dc, 3 dc in 2 ch-sp] twice. 18 sts
Rnd 3: *6 dc, [2 dc in next st] 3 times; rep from * once more. 24 sts
Rnd 4: 21 dc, 2 dc in next st, 2 dc. 25 sts
Rnd 5: Dc around.
Rnd 6: 9 dc, 1 dc2tog, 14 dc. 24 sts
Rnd 7: 9 dc, 1 dc2tog, 13 dc. 23 sts
Rnd 8: 7 dc, 2 dc2tog, 12 dc. 21 sts
Rnd 9: 6 dc, 2 dc2tog, 11 dc. 19 sts
Rnd 10: 4 dc, 3 dc2tog, 9 dc. 16 sts
Rnd 11: 3 dc, 3 dc2tog, 7 dc. 13 sts
Rnds 12-19: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Front Flippers to the bottom of the Head once you've made all the parts.
Worked from bottom up. Stuff bottom half lightly as you go. This piece begins with an oval start rather than a magic circle, if you are unfamiliar with this technique, there's a photo tutorial showing the principle of it HERE. The chains are not included in the stitch count.
With MC, chain 7.
Rnd 1: Starting in the second ch from the hook, 6 dc, 2 ch, rotating as you go, down the other side of the chain, work 6 dc, 2 ch. 12 sts
Rnd 2: [6 dc, 3 dc in 2 ch-sp] twice. 18 sts
Rnd 3: *6 dc, [2 dc in next st] 3 times; rep from * once more. 24 sts
Rnd 4: 21 dc, 2 dc in next st, 2 dc. 25 sts
Rnd 5: Dc around.
Rnd 6: 9 dc, 1 dc2tog, 14 dc. 24 sts
Rnd 7: 9 dc, 1 dc2tog, 13 dc. 23 sts
Rnd 8: 7 dc, 2 dc2tog, 12 dc. 21 sts
Rnd 9: 6 dc, 2 dc2tog, 11 dc. 19 sts
Rnd 10: 4 dc, 3 dc2tog, 9 dc. 16 sts
Rnd 11: 3 dc, 3 dc2tog, 7 dc. 13 sts
Rnds 12-19: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Front Flippers to the bottom of the Head once you've made all the parts.
What's next?
That's all for Part One of this CAL - in Part Two (out Feb 9th 2023) you'll be making the Rear Flippers, Muzzle, Tusks, Eyes and Nose and in Part Three (out Feb 12th 2023) you'll make his Hat and Scarf and follow the Making Up Instructions and Embroidered Details.
If you have a question, feel free to email me: [email protected] and I'll do my best to help.
Happy Crocheting!
Pia xx
©2023PIA SIMPSON/ MYCROCHETCHUMS
That's all for Part One of this CAL - in Part Two (out Feb 9th 2023) you'll be making the Rear Flippers, Muzzle, Tusks, Eyes and Nose and in Part Three (out Feb 12th 2023) you'll make his Hat and Scarf and follow the Making Up Instructions and Embroidered Details.
If you have a question, feel free to email me: [email protected] and I'll do my best to help.
Happy Crocheting!
Pia xx
©2023PIA SIMPSON/ MYCROCHETCHUMS
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* Walter the Walrus is NOT available as a free PDF.
About mycrochetchums
I started mycrochetchums at the end of 2020 to give me something to focus on during lockdown and to make creative use of a box of Amigurumi Yarn that was an impulse purchase I was feeling guilty about!
Join my Chums Gang Mailing List to access FREE PDFs of the patterns - many available in both US and UK Crochet terms.
(Walter the Walrus is not available as a free PDF)
Want to know How to make a Magic Ring? How to Join Amigurumi Parts Seamlessly? How to do "Perfect" Stripes? There's a growing collection of Free Amigurumi Photo Tutorials for all sorts of Hints and Tips on the website too, to help you make better Amigurumi.
Check out the mycrochetchums Facebook page - drop me a message there if you have any feedback about the pattern or would like to share a picture of the end result.
You can also find me on Instagram @mycrochetchums.
I started mycrochetchums at the end of 2020 to give me something to focus on during lockdown and to make creative use of a box of Amigurumi Yarn that was an impulse purchase I was feeling guilty about!
Join my Chums Gang Mailing List to access FREE PDFs of the patterns - many available in both US and UK Crochet terms.
(Walter the Walrus is not available as a free PDF)
Want to know How to make a Magic Ring? How to Join Amigurumi Parts Seamlessly? How to do "Perfect" Stripes? There's a growing collection of Free Amigurumi Photo Tutorials for all sorts of Hints and Tips on the website too, to help you make better Amigurumi.
Check out the mycrochetchums Facebook page - drop me a message there if you have any feedback about the pattern or would like to share a picture of the end result.
You can also find me on Instagram @mycrochetchums.
