#lockdownamichallenge - No 9 - Giraffe
#lockdownamichallenge Giraffe
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Scroll down the page for more pics of this Happy Fella!
Yarn
Aldi So Crafty Knit & Purl Amigurumi Yarn - described on the box as "Light" - Equivalent to DK
30g approx Sand (MC) for Body, Head, Ears and Tail.
20g approx Cream (CC1) for Arms, Legs, Muzzle, Mane, Eye Highlight and end of Tail.
15 g approx Rust (CC2) for Hooves, Spots, and Horns.
Small amount Dark Brown (CC3) for Eyes and Embroidered details.
100% Cotton 25g = 57.5m
A cotton yarn works well for Ami as it gives good stitch definition and creates a firm structure so body parts hold their shape well. Any cotton/cotton mix DK should give similar results.
Aldi So Crafty Knit & Purl Amigurumi Yarn - described on the box as "Light" - Equivalent to DK
30g approx Sand (MC) for Body, Head, Ears and Tail.
20g approx Cream (CC1) for Arms, Legs, Muzzle, Mane, Eye Highlight and end of Tail.
15 g approx Rust (CC2) for Hooves, Spots, and Horns.
Small amount Dark Brown (CC3) for Eyes and Embroidered details.
100% Cotton 25g = 57.5m
A cotton yarn works well for Ami as it gives good stitch definition and creates a firm structure so body parts hold their shape well. Any cotton/cotton mix DK should give similar results.
Hook
3 mm
3 mm
Other Supplies
Yarn needle, toy stuffing, stitch marker/waste yarn.
Yarn needle, toy stuffing, stitch marker/waste yarn.
Tension
Tension is not critical for this project but stitches should be tight enough to avoid stuffing showing through.
Tension is not critical for this project but stitches should be tight enough to avoid stuffing showing through.
Size
23 cm (9 in) approx from top of horns to bottom of hooves.
23 cm (9 in) approx from top of horns to bottom of hooves.
Pattern Notes
Unless otherwise specified this pattern is worked in the amigurumi style, in a spiral without slip stitching or turning chains.
Use a stitch marker or waste yarn to keep track of the first stitch of each round.
If you do not want to make a Magic Ring you can start each piece by making a chain of 2 and then work the first round into the second chain from the hook.
If you would like to start with a Magic Ring but don’t know how, you can find a Magic Ring Photo Tutorial HERE.
The Giraffe is made of multiple separate pieces sewn together.Unless otherwise stated, finish each piece by pulling the yarn through the last loop and leave a long tail for sewing. Any loose tails at the end can be easily woven in.
Starting chains do not count in the total stitch count.
Change colour on the last yrh on last stitch of previous round.
Unless otherwise specified this pattern is worked in the amigurumi style, in a spiral without slip stitching or turning chains.
Use a stitch marker or waste yarn to keep track of the first stitch of each round.
If you do not want to make a Magic Ring you can start each piece by making a chain of 2 and then work the first round into the second chain from the hook.
If you would like to start with a Magic Ring but don’t know how, you can find a Magic Ring Photo Tutorial HERE.
The Giraffe is made of multiple separate pieces sewn together.Unless otherwise stated, finish each piece by pulling the yarn through the last loop and leave a long tail for sewing. Any loose tails at the end can be easily woven in.
Starting chains do not count in the total stitch count.
Change colour on the last yrh on last stitch of previous round.
Abbreviations used in this pattern - UK Crochet Terms
This pattern is written using UK Crochet Terms - they are NOT the same as US ones - please familiarise yourself with the UK terms to avoid your character’s shape distorting!
The “dc” abbreviation used in this pattern refers to UK double crochet. The equivalent stitch in US terms is single crochet - if you are used to US patterns you need to work single crochet everywhere this pattern says “dc”. If you work US dc (equivalent to UK Treble) the finished item will be elongated and the stuffing will show through.
If any of the abbreviations used in this pattern are unfamiliar, you can find a chart of UK Terms HERE.
This pattern uses UK Terms -if you are used to working in US Crochet Terms you can find a conversion chart HERE.
This pattern is written using UK Crochet Terms - they are NOT the same as US ones - please familiarise yourself with the UK terms to avoid your character’s shape distorting!
The “dc” abbreviation used in this pattern refers to UK double crochet. The equivalent stitch in US terms is single crochet - if you are used to US patterns you need to work single crochet everywhere this pattern says “dc”. If you work US dc (equivalent to UK Treble) the finished item will be elongated and the stuffing will show through.
If any of the abbreviations used in this pattern are unfamiliar, you can find a chart of UK Terms HERE.
This pattern uses UK Terms -if you are used to working in US Crochet Terms you can find a conversion chart HERE.
Increasing and decreasing
The “invisible” techniques below are recommended to give your amigurumi a neat finish:
Invisible Increase: Work 1 dc in FLO of next st and 1 dc in both loops of same st.
Invisible decrease: Insert hook in FLO of the two stitches to be decreased, yrh, pull through both front loops, yrh, draw through two loops on hook.
The “invisible” techniques below are recommended to give your amigurumi a neat finish:
Invisible Increase: Work 1 dc in FLO of next st and 1 dc in both loops of same st.
Invisible decrease: Insert hook in FLO of the two stitches to be decreased, yrh, pull through both front loops, yrh, draw through two loops on hook.
Giraffe Right Side
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Giraffe Front
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Giraffe Left Side
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Body
Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: [3dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 6: Dc around.
Rnd 7: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnd 8: Dc around.
Rnd 9: [5 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 42 sts
Rnds 10-11: Dc around.
Rnd 12: [5 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnds 13 - 14: Dc around.
Rnd 15: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 16: Dc around.
Rnd 17: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnds 18-20: Dc around.
Rnd 21: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnds 22 - 25: Dc around.
Fasten off.
Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: [3dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 6: Dc around.
Rnd 7: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnd 8: Dc around.
Rnd 9: [5 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 42 sts
Rnds 10-11: Dc around.
Rnd 12: [5 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnds 13 - 14: Dc around.
Rnd 15: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 16: Dc around.
Rnd 17: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnds 18-20: Dc around.
Rnd 21: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnds 22 - 25: Dc around.
Fasten off.
Head
Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With CC1 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnds 5- 8: Dc around.
Change colour to MC.
Rnd 9: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnds 10-11: Dc around.
Rnd 12: 7 dc, 2 dc in next st, [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 5 times, 7 dc. 36 sts
Rnd 13: Dc around.
Rnd 14: 10 dc, 2 dc in next st, [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 5 times, 10 dc. 42 sts
Rnd 15: Dc around.
Rnd 16: [5 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnd 17: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 18: [3 dc. 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 19: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 20: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnd 21: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Fasten off, weave in end.
Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With CC1 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnds 5- 8: Dc around.
Change colour to MC.
Rnd 9: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnds 10-11: Dc around.
Rnd 12: 7 dc, 2 dc in next st, [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 5 times, 7 dc. 36 sts
Rnd 13: Dc around.
Rnd 14: 10 dc, 2 dc in next st, [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 5 times, 10 dc. 42 sts
Rnd 15: Dc around.
Rnd 16: [5 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnd 17: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 18: [3 dc. 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 19: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 20: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnd 21: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Fasten off, weave in end.
Ear - make 2
Rnd 1: With MC and working in a magic ring, 4 dc. 4 sts
Rnd 2: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] twice. 6 sts
Rnd 3: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 4: Dc around.
Rnd 5: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 6: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnd 7: Dc around.
Rnd 8: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Rnd 9: Dc around.
Fasten off.
Rnd 1: With MC and working in a magic ring, 4 dc. 4 sts
Rnd 2: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] twice. 6 sts
Rnd 3: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 4: Dc around.
Rnd 5: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 6: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnd 7: Dc around.
Rnd 8: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Rnd 9: Dc around.
Fasten off.
Horn - make 2
Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With CC2 and working in a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnd 3: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 12 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnd 5: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 6 sts
Rnds 6-8: Dc around.
Fasten off.
Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With CC2 and working in a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnd 3: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 12 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnd 5: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 6 sts
Rnds 6-8: Dc around.
Fasten off.
Eye - make 2
Rnd 1: With CC3 and working into a magic ring, 4 dc, sl st into first dc of round to join. 4 sts
Fasten off.
Rnd 1: With CC3 and working into a magic ring, 4 dc, sl st into first dc of round to join. 4 sts
Fasten off.
Arm/Leg - make 4
Stuff as you go, to three quarters full.
Rnd 1: With CC2 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [2 dc in next st, 2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: 18 dc BLO. 18 sts
Rnd 5: 5 dc, 1 dc2tog, 4 dc, 1 dc2tog, 5 dc. 16 sts
Rnd 6: 5 dc, 1 dc2tog, 2 dc, 1 dc2tog, 5 dc. 14 sts
Change colour to CC1.
Rnd 7: Dc around.
Rnd 8: 5 dc, 1 dc2tog, 2 dc, 1 dc2tog, 3 dc. 12 sts
Rnd 9: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnds 10-14: Dc around.
Fasten off.
Stuff as you go, to three quarters full.
Rnd 1: With CC2 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [2 dc in next st, 2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: 18 dc BLO. 18 sts
Rnd 5: 5 dc, 1 dc2tog, 4 dc, 1 dc2tog, 5 dc. 16 sts
Rnd 6: 5 dc, 1 dc2tog, 2 dc, 1 dc2tog, 5 dc. 14 sts
Change colour to CC1.
Rnd 7: Dc around.
Rnd 8: 5 dc, 1 dc2tog, 2 dc, 1 dc2tog, 3 dc. 12 sts
Rnd 9: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnds 10-14: Dc around.
Fasten off.
Belly Patch
Rnd 1: With CC1 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 6: Dc around.
Fasten off.
Rnd 1: With CC1 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 6: Dc around.
Fasten off.
Tail
Rnd 1: With CC1 and working into a magic ring, 4 dc. 4 sts
Rnd 2: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] twice. 6 sts
Rnd 3: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] twice. 8 sts
Rnd 4: Dc around.
Rnd 5: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] twice. 6 sts
Change colour to MC.
Rnd 6: Dc around.
Stuff the tip of the tail - no need to stuff the rest.
Rnd 7: Dc around.
Rnd 8: 1 dc2tog, 4 dc. 5 sts
Rnds 9-10: Dc around.
Fasten off.
Rnd 1: With CC1 and working into a magic ring, 4 dc. 4 sts
Rnd 2: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] twice. 6 sts
Rnd 3: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] twice. 8 sts
Rnd 4: Dc around.
Rnd 5: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] twice. 6 sts
Change colour to MC.
Rnd 6: Dc around.
Stuff the tip of the tail - no need to stuff the rest.
Rnd 7: Dc around.
Rnd 8: 1 dc2tog, 4 dc. 5 sts
Rnds 9-10: Dc around.
Fasten off.
Spots - make 7
Rnd 1: With CC2 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times, sl st in first dc of rnd to join.. 9 sts
Fasten off.
Rnd 1: With CC2 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times, sl st in first dc of rnd to join.. 9 sts
Fasten off.
Mane - make three in CC1 and two in CC2
Rnd 1: Working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in next st, 5 dc. 7 sts
Rnds 3-4: Dc around.
Fasten off.
Rnd 1: Working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in next st, 5 dc. 7 sts
Rnds 3-4: Dc around.
Fasten off.
Giraffe Back
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Giraffe Base
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Giraffe Side
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Making Up
Using the photographs as a guide, pin the pieces together first, using the long yarn tails or a length of yarn with a yarn needle to stitch the pieces together.
Sew the Body to the Head, so the front of the neck sits just behind the point where the Head colour changes from CC1 to MC (Rnd 9 of head).
Sew the Eyes to the Head approx in line with Rnds 9/10 so they sit just behind the colour change from CC1 to MC - they should be about 6 stitches apart.
Sew the Horns to the Head approx in line with Rnd 13 sitting approx 3 stitches apart.
Sew the Ears either side of the Horns.
Sew the Mane elements down the back of the Head with the last one stitched to the top of the Body at the back.
Sew the Belly Patch in place on the front of the Body - be sure to centre it so that it aligns with the Head. The bottom of the Belly Patch should sit in line roughly with Rnd 7 of the Body.
Sew the Arms to the Body about 3 rounds down from where the Body and Head meet - looking from the side the Arms should be in line with the Ears.
Sew the Legs to the bottom of the Body, a little forward from the centre so that the Giraffe can sit down.
Sew the Tail to the back of the Body roughly in line with Rnd 6.
Sew the Spots onto the sides and back of the body.
Using the photographs as a guide, pin the pieces together first, using the long yarn tails or a length of yarn with a yarn needle to stitch the pieces together.
Sew the Body to the Head, so the front of the neck sits just behind the point where the Head colour changes from CC1 to MC (Rnd 9 of head).
Sew the Eyes to the Head approx in line with Rnds 9/10 so they sit just behind the colour change from CC1 to MC - they should be about 6 stitches apart.
Sew the Horns to the Head approx in line with Rnd 13 sitting approx 3 stitches apart.
Sew the Ears either side of the Horns.
Sew the Mane elements down the back of the Head with the last one stitched to the top of the Body at the back.
Sew the Belly Patch in place on the front of the Body - be sure to centre it so that it aligns with the Head. The bottom of the Belly Patch should sit in line roughly with Rnd 7 of the Body.
Sew the Arms to the Body about 3 rounds down from where the Body and Head meet - looking from the side the Arms should be in line with the Ears.
Sew the Legs to the bottom of the Body, a little forward from the centre so that the Giraffe can sit down.
Sew the Tail to the back of the Body roughly in line with Rnd 6.
Sew the Spots onto the sides and back of the body.
Embroidered details.
Using the photos as a guide, use CC1 to embroider the highlights on the eyes and CC3 to embroider to nostrils and smile.
Using the photos as a guide, use CC1 to embroider the highlights on the eyes and CC3 to embroider to nostrils and smile.
Terms of Use
I am happy for you to donate, gift or sell any of the my crochet chums you make if you are an individual crafter - please credit mycrochetchums.weebly.com as the designer.
If you do wish to sell your my crochet chums, it is your responsibility to ensure that the finished item complies with the relevant toy legislation in your country.
Please be sure to use toy grade stuffing and do not add buttons, bells, ribbons etc that could be a danger to small children.
The patterns are copyright protected and are not for commercial use. They cannot be sold, transmitted, distributed or reproduced in any form or by any means. I’ve worked hard to create the designs - please don’t sell my patterns - it’s just plain mean!
I am happy for you to donate, gift or sell any of the my crochet chums you make if you are an individual crafter - please credit mycrochetchums.weebly.com as the designer.
If you do wish to sell your my crochet chums, it is your responsibility to ensure that the finished item complies with the relevant toy legislation in your country.
Please be sure to use toy grade stuffing and do not add buttons, bells, ribbons etc that could be a danger to small children.
The patterns are copyright protected and are not for commercial use. They cannot be sold, transmitted, distributed or reproduced in any form or by any means. I’ve worked hard to create the designs - please don’t sell my patterns - it’s just plain mean!
About mycrochetchums
I started mycrochetchums at the end of 2020 to give me something to focus on during lockdown and to make creative use of a box of Aldi Amigurumi Yarn that was an impulse purchase I was feeling guilty about!
I’m loving creating these cute characters and sharpening my tech skills in the process as I wrangle with managing a website and social media.
Check out the mycrochetchums Facebook page - drop me a message there if you have any feedback about the pattern or would like to share a picture of the end result.
You can also find me on Instagram @mycrochetchums.
Happy Crocheting!
Pia x
I started mycrochetchums at the end of 2020 to give me something to focus on during lockdown and to make creative use of a box of Aldi Amigurumi Yarn that was an impulse purchase I was feeling guilty about!
I’m loving creating these cute characters and sharpening my tech skills in the process as I wrangle with managing a website and social media.
Check out the mycrochetchums Facebook page - drop me a message there if you have any feedback about the pattern or would like to share a picture of the end result.
You can also find me on Instagram @mycrochetchums.
Happy Crocheting!
Pia x
© Pia Simpson/My Crochet Chums 2021
