#lockdownamichallenge - No7 - Bear (with a Big Heart!)
#lockdownamichallengebear
Scroll down the page for more pics of this gorgeous little fella!
Yarn
Aldi So Crafty Knit & Purl Amigurumi Yarn - described on the box as "Light" - Equivalent to DK
35g approx Mid Brown (MC) for Body, Arms, Legs and Ears.
15g approx Cream (CC1) for Muzzle, Ear Inserts, Foot Pads and Eye Highlight.
Small amount Dark Brown (CC2) for Nose and Mouth.
Small amount of Black (CC3) for Eyes and Claw detail.
15g approx Bright Pink (CC4) for Heart.
100% Cotton 25g = 57.5m
A cotton yarn works well for Ami as it gives good stitch definition and creates a firm structure so body parts hold their shape well.
Aldi So Crafty Knit & Purl Amigurumi Yarn - described on the box as "Light" - Equivalent to DK
35g approx Mid Brown (MC) for Body, Arms, Legs and Ears.
15g approx Cream (CC1) for Muzzle, Ear Inserts, Foot Pads and Eye Highlight.
Small amount Dark Brown (CC2) for Nose and Mouth.
Small amount of Black (CC3) for Eyes and Claw detail.
15g approx Bright Pink (CC4) for Heart.
100% Cotton 25g = 57.5m
A cotton yarn works well for Ami as it gives good stitch definition and creates a firm structure so body parts hold their shape well.
Hook
3mm
3mm
Tension
Tension is not critical for this project but stitches should be tight enough to avoid stuffing showing through.
Tension is not critical for this project but stitches should be tight enough to avoid stuffing showing through.
Size
20cm (8 in) approx from top of head to bottom of feet.
20cm (8 in) approx from top of head to bottom of feet.
Other Supplies
yarn needle
toy stuffing
stitch marker/waste yarn.
yarn needle
toy stuffing
stitch marker/waste yarn.
Pattern Notes
Unless otherwise specified this pattern is worked in the amigurumi style, in a spiral without slip stitching or turning chains.
Use a stitch marker or waste yarn to keep track of the first stitch of each round.
If you do not want to make a Magic Ring you can start each piece by making a chain of 2 and then work the first round into the second chain from the hook.
If you would like to start with a Magic Ring but don’t know how, you can find a Photo Tutorial HERE.
The Bear is made of multiple separate pieces sewn together.Unless otherwise stated, finish each piece by pulling the yarn through the last loop and leave a long tail for sewing. Any loose tails at the end can be easily woven in.
Starting chains do not count in the total stitch count.
Change colour on the last yrh on last stitch of previous round.
Unless otherwise specified this pattern is worked in the amigurumi style, in a spiral without slip stitching or turning chains.
Use a stitch marker or waste yarn to keep track of the first stitch of each round.
If you do not want to make a Magic Ring you can start each piece by making a chain of 2 and then work the first round into the second chain from the hook.
If you would like to start with a Magic Ring but don’t know how, you can find a Photo Tutorial HERE.
The Bear is made of multiple separate pieces sewn together.Unless otherwise stated, finish each piece by pulling the yarn through the last loop and leave a long tail for sewing. Any loose tails at the end can be easily woven in.
Starting chains do not count in the total stitch count.
Change colour on the last yrh on last stitch of previous round.
Abbreviations used in this pattern - UK Crochet Terms
This pattern is written using UK Crochet Terms - they are NOT the same as US ones - please familiarise yourself with the UK terms to avoid your character’s shape distorting!
The “dc” abbreviation used in this pattern refers to UK double crochet. The equivalent stitch in US terms is single crochet - if you are used to US patterns you need to work single crochet everywhere this pattern says “dc”. If you work US dc (equivalent to UK Treble) the finished item will be elongated and the stuffing will show through.
If any of the abbreviations used in this pattern are unfamiliar, you can find a chart of UK Terms HERE.
This pattern uses UK Terms -if you are used to working in US Crochet Terms you can find a conversion chart HERE.
This pattern is written using UK Crochet Terms - they are NOT the same as US ones - please familiarise yourself with the UK terms to avoid your character’s shape distorting!
The “dc” abbreviation used in this pattern refers to UK double crochet. The equivalent stitch in US terms is single crochet - if you are used to US patterns you need to work single crochet everywhere this pattern says “dc”. If you work US dc (equivalent to UK Treble) the finished item will be elongated and the stuffing will show through.
If any of the abbreviations used in this pattern are unfamiliar, you can find a chart of UK Terms HERE.
This pattern uses UK Terms -if you are used to working in US Crochet Terms you can find a conversion chart HERE.
Increasing and decreasing
Increasing and decreasing: the “invisible” techniques below are recommended to give your amigurumi a neat finish:
Invisible Increase: Work 1 dc in FLO of next st and 1 dc in both loops of same st.
Invisible decrease: Insert hook in FLO of the two stitches to be decreased, yrh, pull through both front loops, yrh, draw through two loops on hook.
Increasing and decreasing: the “invisible” techniques below are recommended to give your amigurumi a neat finish:
Invisible Increase: Work 1 dc in FLO of next st and 1 dc in both loops of same st.
Invisible decrease: Insert hook in FLO of the two stitches to be decreased, yrh, pull through both front loops, yrh, draw through two loops on hook.
Bear Right Side
Time to start crocheting!
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Bear Front
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Bear Left Side
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Body
Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With MC and working in a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: [3dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 6: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnds 7-12: Dc around.
Rnd 13: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnds 14-15: Dc around.
Rnd 16: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnds 17-18: Dc around.
Rnd 19: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 20: Dc around.
Fasten off.
Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With MC and working in a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: [3dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 6: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnds 7-12: Dc around.
Rnd 13: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnds 14-15: Dc around.
Rnd 16: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnds 17-18: Dc around.
Rnd 19: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 20: Dc around.
Fasten off.
Head
Stuff as you go.
If you're flummoxed by the first two rounds -there's a photo tutorial HERE.
With MC chain 4.
Rnd 1: Starting in 2nd chain from hook and rotating as you go, [3 dc, 2 ch] twice. 6 sts
Rnd 2: [3 dc, 3 dc in 2 ch sp] twice. 12 sts
Rnd 3: *3 dc, [2 dc in next st] 3 times; rep from * once more. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 6: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnd 7: Dc around.
Rnd 8: [5 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 42 sts
Rnd 9: Dc around.
Rnd 10: [5 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnd 11: Dc around.
Rnd 12: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 13: Dc around.
Rnd 14: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 15: Dc around.
Rnd 16: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 17: Dc around.
Rnd 18: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnd 19: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Fasten off, weave in end.
Stuff as you go.
If you're flummoxed by the first two rounds -there's a photo tutorial HERE.
With MC chain 4.
Rnd 1: Starting in 2nd chain from hook and rotating as you go, [3 dc, 2 ch] twice. 6 sts
Rnd 2: [3 dc, 3 dc in 2 ch sp] twice. 12 sts
Rnd 3: *3 dc, [2 dc in next st] 3 times; rep from * once more. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 6: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnd 7: Dc around.
Rnd 8: [5 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 42 sts
Rnd 9: Dc around.
Rnd 10: [5 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnd 11: Dc around.
Rnd 12: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 13: Dc around.
Rnd 14: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 15: Dc around.
Rnd 16: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 17: Dc around.
Rnd 18: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnd 19: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Fasten off, weave in end.
Ear - make 2
Rnd 1: With MC and working in a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnds 4-6: Dc around.
Fasten off.
Rnd 1: With MC and working in a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnds 4-6: Dc around.
Fasten off.
Ear Insert - make 2
Rnd 1: With CC1 and working in a magic ring, 5 dc. Turn. 5 sts
Rnd 2: 1 ch, [2 dc in next st] 5 times. 10 sts
Fasten off.
Rnd 1: With CC1 and working in a magic ring, 5 dc. Turn. 5 sts
Rnd 2: 1 ch, [2 dc in next st] 5 times. 10 sts
Fasten off.
Snout
Rnd 1: With CC1 and working into a Magic Ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [ 2 dc in next st, 2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: Dc around.
Rnd 5: [2 dc in next st, 4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 24 sts
Rnd 6: Dc around.
Fasten off. Stuff snout.
Rnd 1: With CC1 and working into a Magic Ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [ 2 dc in next st, 2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: Dc around.
Rnd 5: [2 dc in next st, 4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 24 sts
Rnd 6: Dc around.
Fasten off. Stuff snout.
Eyes - make 2
Rnd 1: With CC3 and working into a magic ring, 4 dc, sl st infers dc to join. 4 sts
Fasten off.
Rnd 1: With CC3 and working into a magic ring, 4 dc, sl st infers dc to join. 4 sts
Fasten off.
Nose
Rnd 1: With CC2 and working into a Magic Ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnds 3-4: Dc around.
Fasten off. Flatten piece and use yarn tail to sew top closed.
Rnd 1: With CC2 and working into a Magic Ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnds 3-4: Dc around.
Fasten off. Flatten piece and use yarn tail to sew top closed.
Arm - make 2
Stuff arm about two thirds full.
Rnd 1: With MC and working in a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnds 4-5: Dc around.
Rnd 6: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times, 9 dc. 15 sts
Rnd 7: 3 dc2tog, 9 dc. 12 sts
Rnd 8: 2 dc2tog, 3 dc, 1 dc2tog, 3 dc. 9 sts
Rnd 9: Dc around.
Rnd 10: 4 dc, 1 dc2tog, 3 dc. 8 sts
Rnds 11-13: Dc around.
Fasten off.
Stuff arm about two thirds full.
Rnd 1: With MC and working in a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnds 4-5: Dc around.
Rnd 6: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times, 9 dc. 15 sts
Rnd 7: 3 dc2tog, 9 dc. 12 sts
Rnd 8: 2 dc2tog, 3 dc, 1 dc2tog, 3 dc. 9 sts
Rnd 9: Dc around.
Rnd 10: 4 dc, 1 dc2tog, 3 dc. 8 sts
Rnds 11-13: Dc around.
Fasten off.
Leg - make 2
Rnd 1: With CC1 and working in a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Change colour to MC.
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: 6 dc, 1 dc2tog, [2 dc, 1 dc2 tog] twice, 8 dc. 21 sts
Rnd 6: 7 dc, 1 dc2tog, 1 dc, 1 dc2tog, 7 dc, 1 dc2tog. 18 sts
Rnd 7: 6 dc, 2 dc2tog, 6 dc, 1 dc2tog. 15 sts
Rnd 8: 4dc, 1 dc2tog, 1 dc, 1 dc2tog, 4 dc, 1 dc2tog. 12 sts
Rnds 9- 10: Dc around.
Rnd 11: 6 dc, 1 dc2tog, 4 dc. 11 sts
Rnd 12: Dc around.
Rnd 13: 7 dc, 1 dc2tog, 2 dc. 10 sts
Rnd 14: 6 dc, 1 dc2tog, 2 dc. 9 sts
Fasten off.
Rnd 1: With CC1 and working in a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Change colour to MC.
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: 6 dc, 1 dc2tog, [2 dc, 1 dc2 tog] twice, 8 dc. 21 sts
Rnd 6: 7 dc, 1 dc2tog, 1 dc, 1 dc2tog, 7 dc, 1 dc2tog. 18 sts
Rnd 7: 6 dc, 2 dc2tog, 6 dc, 1 dc2tog. 15 sts
Rnd 8: 4dc, 1 dc2tog, 1 dc, 1 dc2tog, 4 dc, 1 dc2tog. 12 sts
Rnds 9- 10: Dc around.
Rnd 11: 6 dc, 1 dc2tog, 4 dc. 11 sts
Rnd 12: Dc around.
Rnd 13: 7 dc, 1 dc2tog, 2 dc. 10 sts
Rnd 14: 6 dc, 1 dc2tog, 2 dc. 9 sts
Fasten off.
Heart
Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With CC4 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnd 3: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 12 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc in next st, 4 dc, 2 dc in next st] twice. 16 sts
Rnd 5: [ 2 dc in next st, 6 dc, 2 dc in next st] twice. 20 sts
Rnd 6: [2 dc in next st, 8 dc, 2 dc in next st] twice. 24 sts
Rnds 7-9: Dc around.
To create first half of the top of the heart:
Rnd 10: 6 dc, miss 12 st, 6 dc. 12 sts
Rnds 11-12: Dc around.
Rnd 13: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Fasten off, weave yarn tail through stitches of last round and pull to close hole. Weave in yarn tail.
To create second half of the top of the heart:
Rnd 14: Starting in next unworked stitch of Rnd 10, dc around. 12 sts
Rnds 15-16: Dc around.
If more stuffing is needed, add it now before you work the last round.
Rnd 17: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Fasten off, weave yarn tail through stitches of last round and pull to close hole, then use the same tail to stitch closed the hole where the two top parts of the heart meet, weave in yarn tail.
Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With CC4 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnd 3: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 12 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc in next st, 4 dc, 2 dc in next st] twice. 16 sts
Rnd 5: [ 2 dc in next st, 6 dc, 2 dc in next st] twice. 20 sts
Rnd 6: [2 dc in next st, 8 dc, 2 dc in next st] twice. 24 sts
Rnds 7-9: Dc around.
To create first half of the top of the heart:
Rnd 10: 6 dc, miss 12 st, 6 dc. 12 sts
Rnds 11-12: Dc around.
Rnd 13: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Fasten off, weave yarn tail through stitches of last round and pull to close hole. Weave in yarn tail.
To create second half of the top of the heart:
Rnd 14: Starting in next unworked stitch of Rnd 10, dc around. 12 sts
Rnds 15-16: Dc around.
If more stuffing is needed, add it now before you work the last round.
Rnd 17: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Fasten off, weave yarn tail through stitches of last round and pull to close hole, then use the same tail to stitch closed the hole where the two top parts of the heart meet, weave in yarn tail.
Bear Back
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Bear Base
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Bear - Facial detail
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Making up.
Using the photographs as a guide, pin the pieces together first, using the long yarn tails or a length of yarn with a yarn needle to stitch the pieces together.
Join the Body to the Head.
Join the Snout to the Head with the top of it sitting roughly in line with Rnd 12 of the Head.
Sew the Ears to the Head in a curve, with the top of them roughly in line with Rnd 17of the Head.
Sew the Ear Inserts inside each Ear and attach the Eyes just above the Snout about 4 stitches apart.
Sew the Nose in place on the Snout with the top of it roughly in line with Rnd 4 of the Snout.
Sew the Arms to the side of the Body, roughly in line with Rnd 17/18 of the body - looking from the side the arms should be about in line with the Ears.
Sew the Legs to the bottom of the Body, about in line with Rnd 5 and a little forward from the centre so the Bear can sit down.
If you want the heart to be attached, use a length of MC to stitch it to the paws so it looks like the Bear is holding it - or you can leave it separate if you wish.
Using the photographs as a guide, pin the pieces together first, using the long yarn tails or a length of yarn with a yarn needle to stitch the pieces together.
Join the Body to the Head.
Join the Snout to the Head with the top of it sitting roughly in line with Rnd 12 of the Head.
Sew the Ears to the Head in a curve, with the top of them roughly in line with Rnd 17of the Head.
Sew the Ear Inserts inside each Ear and attach the Eyes just above the Snout about 4 stitches apart.
Sew the Nose in place on the Snout with the top of it roughly in line with Rnd 4 of the Snout.
Sew the Arms to the side of the Body, roughly in line with Rnd 17/18 of the body - looking from the side the arms should be about in line with the Ears.
Sew the Legs to the bottom of the Body, about in line with Rnd 5 and a little forward from the centre so the Bear can sit down.
If you want the heart to be attached, use a length of MC to stitch it to the paws so it looks like the Bear is holding it - or you can leave it separate if you wish.
Embroidered details.
Using the photos as a guide, use CC1 to embroider the highlights on the eyes, CC2 to create the mouth and CC3 to add the claw details to the paws.
All done!
Using the photos as a guide, use CC1 to embroider the highlights on the eyes, CC2 to create the mouth and CC3 to add the claw details to the paws.
All done!
Terms of Use
I am happy for you to donate, gift or sell any of the my crochet chums you make if you are an individual crafter - please credit mycrochetchums.weebly.com as the designer.
If you do wish to sell your my crochet chums, it is your responsibility to ensure that the finished item complies with the relevant toy legislation in your country.
Please be sure to use toy grade stuffing and do not add buttons, bells, ribbons etc that could be a danger to small children.
The patterns are copyright protected and are not for commercial use. They cannot be sold, transmitted, distributed or reproduced in any form or by any means. I’ve worked hard to create the designs - please don’t sell my patterns - it’s just plain mean!
© Pia Simpson My Crochet Chums 2021
I am happy for you to donate, gift or sell any of the my crochet chums you make if you are an individual crafter - please credit mycrochetchums.weebly.com as the designer.
If you do wish to sell your my crochet chums, it is your responsibility to ensure that the finished item complies with the relevant toy legislation in your country.
Please be sure to use toy grade stuffing and do not add buttons, bells, ribbons etc that could be a danger to small children.
The patterns are copyright protected and are not for commercial use. They cannot be sold, transmitted, distributed or reproduced in any form or by any means. I’ve worked hard to create the designs - please don’t sell my patterns - it’s just plain mean!
© Pia Simpson My Crochet Chums 2021
