#lockdownamichallenge - No 6 - Penguin
#lockdownamichallenge penguin
Scroll down the page for more pics of this chilly little chap!
Yarn
Aldi So Crafty Knit & Purl Amigurumi Yarn - described on the box as "Light" - Equivalent to DK
35g approx Navy Blue (MC)- for Body, Wings and Hat detail.
Small amount of White (CC1) for Belly Patch.
Small amount of Yellow (CC2) for Beak and Feet.
Small amounts of Black (CC3) for Eyes.
15 g approx Pale Blue (CC4) for Hat and Tummy detail.
Small amount of Pink (CC5) for Brim and Bobbles.
Small amount of Teal (CC6) for Tummy detail and Hat detail.
100% Cotton 25g = 57.5m
A cotton yarn works well for Ami as it gives good stitch definition and creates a firm structure so body parts hold their shape well.
35g approx Navy Blue (MC)- for Body, Wings and Hat detail.
Small amount of White (CC1) for Belly Patch.
Small amount of Yellow (CC2) for Beak and Feet.
Small amounts of Black (CC3) for Eyes.
15 g approx Pale Blue (CC4) for Hat and Tummy detail.
Small amount of Pink (CC5) for Brim and Bobbles.
Small amount of Teal (CC6) for Tummy detail and Hat detail.
100% Cotton 25g = 57.5m
A cotton yarn works well for Ami as it gives good stitch definition and creates a firm structure so body parts hold their shape well.
Hook
3mm
3mm
Tension
Tension is not critical for this project but stitches should be tight enough to avoid stuffing showing through.
Tension is not critical for this project but stitches should be tight enough to avoid stuffing showing through.
Size
15 cm (6 in) approx from top of hat to bottom of feet.
15 cm (6 in) approx from top of hat to bottom of feet.
Other Supplies
yarn needle
toy stuffing
stitch marker/waste yarn.
yarn needle
toy stuffing
stitch marker/waste yarn.
Pattern Notes
Unless otherwise specified this pattern is worked in the amigurumi style, in a spiral without slip stitching or turning chains.
Use a stitch marker or waste yarn to keep track of the first stitch of each round.
The Penguin is made of multiple separate pieces sewn together. Unless otherwise stated, finish each piece by pulling the yarn through the last loop and leave a long tail for sewing. Any loose tails at the end can be easily woven in.
Slip stitches are not counted in the total stitch count for a round. Starting chains do not count in the total stitch count.
Unless otherwise specified this pattern is worked in the amigurumi style, in a spiral without slip stitching or turning chains.
Use a stitch marker or waste yarn to keep track of the first stitch of each round.
The Penguin is made of multiple separate pieces sewn together. Unless otherwise stated, finish each piece by pulling the yarn through the last loop and leave a long tail for sewing. Any loose tails at the end can be easily woven in.
Slip stitches are not counted in the total stitch count for a round. Starting chains do not count in the total stitch count.
Abbreviations used in this pattern - UK Crochet Terms
This pattern is written using UK Crochet Terms - they are NOT the same as US ones - please familiarise yourself with the UK terms to avoid your character’s shape distorting!
The “dc” abbreviation used in this pattern refers to UK double crochet. The equivalent stitch in US terms is single crochet - if you are used to US patterns you need to work single crochet everywhere this pattern says “dc”. If you work US dc (equivalent to UK Treble) the finished item will be elongated and the stuffing will show through.
If any of the abbreviations used in this pattern are unfamiliar, you can find a chart of UK Terms HERE.
This pattern uses UK Terms -if you are used to working in US Crochet Terms you can find a conversion chart HERE.
This pattern is written using UK Crochet Terms - they are NOT the same as US ones - please familiarise yourself with the UK terms to avoid your character’s shape distorting!
The “dc” abbreviation used in this pattern refers to UK double crochet. The equivalent stitch in US terms is single crochet - if you are used to US patterns you need to work single crochet everywhere this pattern says “dc”. If you work US dc (equivalent to UK Treble) the finished item will be elongated and the stuffing will show through.
If any of the abbreviations used in this pattern are unfamiliar, you can find a chart of UK Terms HERE.
This pattern uses UK Terms -if you are used to working in US Crochet Terms you can find a conversion chart HERE.
Increasing and decreasing
Increasing and decreasing: the “invisible” techniques below are recommended to give your amigurumi a neat finish:
Invisible Increase: Work 1 dc in FLO of next st and 1 dc in both loops of same st.
Invisible decrease: Insert hook in FLO of the two stitches to be decreased, yrh, pull through both front loops, yrh, draw through two loops on hook.
Increasing and decreasing: the “invisible” techniques below are recommended to give your amigurumi a neat finish:
Invisible Increase: Work 1 dc in FLO of next st and 1 dc in both loops of same st.
Invisible decrease: Insert hook in FLO of the two stitches to be decreased, yrh, pull through both front loops, yrh, draw through two loops on hook.
Penguin Right Side
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Penguin Back
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Penguin Left Side
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Time to start crocheting!
Body
Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With MC and working in a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: [3dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 6: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnd 7: [5 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 42 sts
Rnd 8: Dc around.
Rnd 9: [6 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 48 sts
Rnd 10: Dc around.
Rnd 11: [7 dc,2 dc in next st] 6 times. 54 sts
Rnd 12: [7 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 48 sts
Rnds 13-16: Dc around.
Rnd 17: [6 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 42 sts
Rnd 18: Dc around.
Rnd 19: [5 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnds 20- 21: Dc around.
Rnd 22: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnds 23-26: Dc around.
Rnd 27: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnds 28-29: Dc around.
Rnd 30: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 31: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 32: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 33: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnd 34: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Fasten off, weave in end.
Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With MC and working in a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: [3dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 6: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnd 7: [5 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 42 sts
Rnd 8: Dc around.
Rnd 9: [6 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 48 sts
Rnd 10: Dc around.
Rnd 11: [7 dc,2 dc in next st] 6 times. 54 sts
Rnd 12: [7 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 48 sts
Rnds 13-16: Dc around.
Rnd 17: [6 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 42 sts
Rnd 18: Dc around.
Rnd 19: [5 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnds 20- 21: Dc around.
Rnd 22: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnds 23-26: Dc around.
Rnd 27: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnds 28-29: Dc around.
Rnd 30: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 31: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 32: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 33: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnd 34: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Fasten off, weave in end.
Wing - make 2
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: Dc around.
Rnd 3: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnds 4-5: Dc around.
Rnd 6: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnds 7-9: Dc around.
Rnd 10: 8 dc, 1 dc2tog, 8 dc. 17 sts
Rnd 11: Dc around.
Rnd 12: 7 dc, 1 dc2tog, 8 dc. 16 sts
Rnd 13: Dc around.
Rnd 14: 7 dc, 1 dc2tog, 7 dc. 15 sts
Rnd 15: 7 dc, 1 dc2tog, 6 dc. 14 sts
Rnd 16: 6 dc, 1 dc2tog, 6 dc. 13 sts
Rnd 17: 6 dc, 1 dc2tog, 5 dc. 12 sts
Rnd 18: 6 dc, 1 dc2tog, 4 dc. 11 sts
Fasten off.
Belly Patch
With CC1, chain 7.
Row 1: Starting in 2nd ch from hook, 6 dc. Turn. 6 sts
Row 2: 1 ch, 2 dc in next st, 4 dc, 2 dc in next st. Turn. 8 sts
Row 3: 1 ch, 2 dc in next st, 6 dc, 2 dc in next st. Turn. 10 sts
Row 4: 1 ch, 2 dc in next st, 8 dc, 2 dc in next st. Turn. 12 sts
Row 5: 1 ch, 2 dc in next st, 10 dc, 2 dc in next st. Turn. 14 sts
Rows 6-10: 1 ch, dc across. Turn.
Row 11: 1 ch, 1 dc, 1 dc2tog, 8 dc, 1 dc2tog, 1 dc. Turn.12 sts
Row 12: 1 ch, 1dc, 1 dc2tog, 6 dc, 1 dc2tog, 1 dc. Turn. 10 sts
Row 13: 1 dc, 1 dc2tog, 4 dc, 1 dc2tog, 1 dc. 8 sts
Row 14: 1 ch, dc across. Turn.
Row 15: 1 ch, 1 dc, 1 dc2tog, 2 dc, 1 dc2tog, 1 dc. Turn. 6 sts
Row 16-18: 1 ch, dc across. Turn.
Row 19: 1 ch, 1 dc, 2 dc2tog, 1 dc. Turn. 4 sts
Row 20: 1 ch, 2 dc2tog. Do not turn.2 sts
Row 21: Rotating as you go, work 1 dc in the end of each row down the side, 1 dc in each of the unused side of the foundation chain, and the same up the other side, joining with a slip stitch in the first stitch of Row 20. Fasten off.
With CC1, chain 7.
Row 1: Starting in 2nd ch from hook, 6 dc. Turn. 6 sts
Row 2: 1 ch, 2 dc in next st, 4 dc, 2 dc in next st. Turn. 8 sts
Row 3: 1 ch, 2 dc in next st, 6 dc, 2 dc in next st. Turn. 10 sts
Row 4: 1 ch, 2 dc in next st, 8 dc, 2 dc in next st. Turn. 12 sts
Row 5: 1 ch, 2 dc in next st, 10 dc, 2 dc in next st. Turn. 14 sts
Rows 6-10: 1 ch, dc across. Turn.
Row 11: 1 ch, 1 dc, 1 dc2tog, 8 dc, 1 dc2tog, 1 dc. Turn.12 sts
Row 12: 1 ch, 1dc, 1 dc2tog, 6 dc, 1 dc2tog, 1 dc. Turn. 10 sts
Row 13: 1 dc, 1 dc2tog, 4 dc, 1 dc2tog, 1 dc. 8 sts
Row 14: 1 ch, dc across. Turn.
Row 15: 1 ch, 1 dc, 1 dc2tog, 2 dc, 1 dc2tog, 1 dc. Turn. 6 sts
Row 16-18: 1 ch, dc across. Turn.
Row 19: 1 ch, 1 dc, 2 dc2tog, 1 dc. Turn. 4 sts
Row 20: 1 ch, 2 dc2tog. Do not turn.2 sts
Row 21: Rotating as you go, work 1 dc in the end of each row down the side, 1 dc in each of the unused side of the foundation chain, and the same up the other side, joining with a slip stitch in the first stitch of Row 20. Fasten off.
Eye - make 2
Rnd 1: With CC3 and working in a magic ring, 4 dc. 4 sts
Join with a slip st in top of first dc.
Fasten off.
Rnd 1: With CC3 and working in a magic ring, 4 dc. 4 sts
Join with a slip st in top of first dc.
Fasten off.
Beak
Rnd 1: With CC2 and working into a magic ring, 4 dc. 4 sts
Rnd 2: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] twice. 6 sts
Rnd 3: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] twice. 8 sts
Rnd 4: Dc around.
Fasten off.
Rnd 1: With CC2 and working into a magic ring, 4 dc. 4 sts
Rnd 2: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] twice. 6 sts
Rnd 3: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] twice. 8 sts
Rnd 4: Dc around.
Fasten off.
Foot - make 2
Rnd 1: With CC2 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnd 5: Dc around.
Rnd 6: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Fasten off.
Rnd 1: With CC2 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnd 5: Dc around.
Rnd 6: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Fasten off.
Hat
With CC4, chain 37.
Rnd 1: Starting in 2nd ch from hook, 36 dc.
Loop round and work the first dc of Rnd 2 in the first dc of Rnd 1, creating a ring.
Rnds 2-10: Dc around.
Fasten off and use the yarn tail to sew the top of the hat closed.
With CC4, chain 37.
Rnd 1: Starting in 2nd ch from hook, 36 dc.
Loop round and work the first dc of Rnd 2 in the first dc of Rnd 1, creating a ring.
Rnds 2-10: Dc around.
Fasten off and use the yarn tail to sew the top of the hat closed.
Brim
To create the brim, with the top of the hat facing towards you, attach CC5 to the first of the unused loops of the starting chain.
Rnd 1: Dc around. 36 sts
Rnd 2: Dc around FLO. 36 sts
Rnds 3-4: Dc around.
Fasten off, weave in end.
To create the brim, with the top of the hat facing towards you, attach CC5 to the first of the unused loops of the starting chain.
Rnd 1: Dc around. 36 sts
Rnd 2: Dc around FLO. 36 sts
Rnds 3-4: Dc around.
Fasten off, weave in end.
Bobble - make 2
Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With CC5 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: Dc around.
Rnd 4: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Fasten off, weave yarn tail through the stitches of Rnd 4 and pull tight to close the hole.
Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With CC5 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: Dc around.
Rnd 4: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Fasten off, weave yarn tail through the stitches of Rnd 4 and pull tight to close the hole.
Penguin Embroidered detail
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Penguin - Foot position
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Making up.
Using the photographs as a guide, pin the pieces together first, using the long yarn tails or a length of yarn with a yarn needle to stitch the pieces together.
Make the Hat up first. Sew Bobbles on to top corners of Hat. Embroider stars on using MC and line detail on brim with CC6.
Sew the Belly Patch to the Body, with the bottom of the Belly Patch sitting in line with Rnd 5 of the Body.
Place Hat on Head and attach Eyes on top of Belly Patch so they sit just below the Brim of the Hat.
Sew Beak in place just below eyes.
With the straighter side of the Wings facing to the front of the Penguin, attach them either side of the Belly Patch at an angle, with the top corner of the Wing sitting just below the Brim of the Hat.
Sew the Feet in place on the bottom of the Body with the back of the Feet sitting roughly in line with Rnd 3 of the Body.
Using the photographs as a guide, pin the pieces together first, using the long yarn tails or a length of yarn with a yarn needle to stitch the pieces together.
Make the Hat up first. Sew Bobbles on to top corners of Hat. Embroider stars on using MC and line detail on brim with CC6.
Sew the Belly Patch to the Body, with the bottom of the Belly Patch sitting in line with Rnd 5 of the Body.
Place Hat on Head and attach Eyes on top of Belly Patch so they sit just below the Brim of the Hat.
Sew Beak in place just below eyes.
With the straighter side of the Wings facing to the front of the Penguin, attach them either side of the Belly Patch at an angle, with the top corner of the Wing sitting just below the Brim of the Hat.
Sew the Feet in place on the bottom of the Body with the back of the Feet sitting roughly in line with Rnd 3 of the Body.
Embroidered details.
Use CC1 to embroider the highlights on the eyes and CC4 and CC6 to embroider the V detail on the Belly.
Use CC1 to embroider the highlights on the eyes and CC4 and CC6 to embroider the V detail on the Belly.
Terms of Use
I am happy for you to donate, gift or sell any of the my crochet chums you make if you are an individual crafter - please credit mycrochetchums.weebly.com as the designer.
If you do wish to sell your my crochet chums, it is your responsibility to ensure that the finished item complies with the relevant toy legislation in your country.
Please be sure to use toy grade stuffing and do not add buttons, bells, ribbons etc that could be a danger to small children.
The patterns are copyright protected and are not for commercial use. They cannot be sold, transmitted, distributed or reproduced in any form or by any means. I’ve worked hard to create the designs - please don’t sell my patterns - it’s just plain mean!
© Pia Simpson My Crochet Chums 2021
I am happy for you to donate, gift or sell any of the my crochet chums you make if you are an individual crafter - please credit mycrochetchums.weebly.com as the designer.
If you do wish to sell your my crochet chums, it is your responsibility to ensure that the finished item complies with the relevant toy legislation in your country.
Please be sure to use toy grade stuffing and do not add buttons, bells, ribbons etc that could be a danger to small children.
The patterns are copyright protected and are not for commercial use. They cannot be sold, transmitted, distributed or reproduced in any form or by any means. I’ve worked hard to create the designs - please don’t sell my patterns - it’s just plain mean!
© Pia Simpson My Crochet Chums 2021
