Free Amigurumi Crochet Whale Shark Pattern
No 55 - Whale shark
Scroll down for pattern and more photos!
Yarn
Scheepjes Catona. 100% Cotton. 125m per 50g
MC: 30g approx of Capri Blue (261) for Body and Fins.
CC1: 20g approx of Snow White (106) for Underside, Outer Eyes and Embroidered Details.
CC2: Small amount of Jet Black (110) for Pupils.
A cotton yarn works well for Ami as it gives good stitch definition and creates a firm structure so body parts hold their shape well. Scheepjes Catona is a relatively thick 4 ply (US: Sport) - you can substitute a DK Cotton (US: DK/Light Worsted) with a similar amount of metres per 50g.
Scheepjes Catona. 100% Cotton. 125m per 50g
MC: 30g approx of Capri Blue (261) for Body and Fins.
CC1: 20g approx of Snow White (106) for Underside, Outer Eyes and Embroidered Details.
CC2: Small amount of Jet Black (110) for Pupils.
A cotton yarn works well for Ami as it gives good stitch definition and creates a firm structure so body parts hold their shape well. Scheepjes Catona is a relatively thick 4 ply (US: Sport) - you can substitute a DK Cotton (US: DK/Light Worsted) with a similar amount of metres per 50g.
Hook
2mm
I usually use a 3mm hook for my Ami but this time I used a 2mm, as I wanted the structure to be a little firmer, so the fins hold their shape well and don't flop. The pattern will work fine with a 3mm hook - you'll just need a bit more yarn and your finished piece will be slightly larger.
2mm
I usually use a 3mm hook for my Ami but this time I used a 2mm, as I wanted the structure to be a little firmer, so the fins hold their shape well and don't flop. The pattern will work fine with a 3mm hook - you'll just need a bit more yarn and your finished piece will be slightly larger.
Other Supplies
Yarn needle, toy stuffing, stitch marker/waste yarn, pins and scissors.
Yarn needle, toy stuffing, stitch marker/waste yarn, pins and scissors.
Tension
Tension is not critical for this project but stitches should be tight enough to avoid stuffing showing through.
Tension is not critical for this project but stitches should be tight enough to avoid stuffing showing through.
Size
20 cm (8 in) approx from head to tail.
20 cm (8 in) approx from head to tail.
Pattern Notes
Unless otherwise specified this pattern is worked in the amigurumi style, in a continuous spiral without slip stitching or turning chains. The Underside is worked as a flat piece in turned rows.
Use a stitch marker or waste yarn to keep track of the first stitch of each round.
If you do not want to make a Magic Ring you can start each piece by making a chain of 2 and then work the first round into the second chain from the hook.
If you would like to start with a Magic Ring but don’t know how, you can find a Photo Tutorial HERE.
The Whale Shark is made of multiple separate pieces sewn together. Unless otherwise stated, finish each piece by pulling the yarn through the last loop and leave a long tail for sewing. Any loose tails at the end can be easily woven in.
Unless otherwise specified this pattern is worked in the amigurumi style, in a continuous spiral without slip stitching or turning chains. The Underside is worked as a flat piece in turned rows.
Use a stitch marker or waste yarn to keep track of the first stitch of each round.
If you do not want to make a Magic Ring you can start each piece by making a chain of 2 and then work the first round into the second chain from the hook.
If you would like to start with a Magic Ring but don’t know how, you can find a Photo Tutorial HERE.
The Whale Shark is made of multiple separate pieces sewn together. Unless otherwise stated, finish each piece by pulling the yarn through the last loop and leave a long tail for sewing. Any loose tails at the end can be easily woven in.
UK Crochet Terms - Abbreviations
This pattern is written using UK Crochet Terms - they are NOT the same as US ones - please familiarise yourself with the UK terms to avoid your character’s shape distorting!
The “dc” abbreviation used in this pattern refers to UK double crochet. The equivalent stitch in US terms is single crochet - if you are used to US patterns you need to work single crochet everywhere this pattern says “dc”. If you work US dc (equivalent to UK Treble) the finished item will be elongated and the stuffing will show through.
This pattern is written using UK Crochet Terms - they are NOT the same as US ones - please familiarise yourself with the UK terms to avoid your character’s shape distorting!
The “dc” abbreviation used in this pattern refers to UK double crochet. The equivalent stitch in US terms is single crochet - if you are used to US patterns you need to work single crochet everywhere this pattern says “dc”. If you work US dc (equivalent to UK Treble) the finished item will be elongated and the stuffing will show through.
If you are used to working in US Crochet Terms you can find a conversion chart HERE.
If you are unfamiliar with any of the terms used in this pattern, you can find a chart of the UK Crochet terms used HERE.
If you are unfamiliar with any of the terms used in this pattern, you can find a chart of the UK Crochet terms used HERE.
Increasing and decreasing
You may use either standard increases and decreases in this pattern or, for a much neater finish, invisible ones. FLO = Front loop only.
Decrease - "dc2tog" in pattern.
Invisible decrease: Insert hook in FLO of the two stitches to be decreased, yoh, pull through both front loops, yoh, draw through two loops on hook.
Increase - "2 dc in next st" in pattern.
Invisible Increase: Work 1 dc in FLO of next st and 1 dc in both loops of same st.
You may use either standard increases and decreases in this pattern or, for a much neater finish, invisible ones. FLO = Front loop only.
Decrease - "dc2tog" in pattern.
Invisible decrease: Insert hook in FLO of the two stitches to be decreased, yoh, pull through both front loops, yoh, draw through two loops on hook.
Increase - "2 dc in next st" in pattern.
Invisible Increase: Work 1 dc in FLO of next st and 1 dc in both loops of same st.
Whale Shark - back right
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Whale Shark - side view
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Body
Worked from front of the Body back to the Tail. Stuff as you go. Chains are not included in the stitch count. This piece is made using an Oval Start, rather than using a magic ring, if you are unfamiliar with this technique, you can find a Photo Tutorial showing the principle of it HERE.
With MC, chain 13.
Rnd 1: Starting in the second ch from hook, 12 dc, 2 ch, rotating as you go, 12 dc in other side of ch, 2 ch. 24 sts
Rnd 2: [12 dc, 3 dc in 2 ch-sp] twice. 30 sts
Rnd 3: Dc around.
Rnd 4: 2 dc in next st, 12 dc, [2 dc in next st] 3 times, 12 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice. 36 sts
Rnd 5: 2 dc in next st, 13 dc, [2 dc in next st, 1 dc] twice, 2 dc in next st, 13 dc, [2 dc in next st, 1 dc] twice. 42 sts
Rnds 6-8: Dc around.
Rnd 9: [19 dc, 1 dc2tog] twice. 40 sts
Rnd 10: Dc around.
Rnd 11: 1 dc, 1 dc2tog, 15 dc, 1 dc2tog, 1 dc, 1 dc2tog, 15 dc, 1 dc2tog. 36 sts
Rnds 12-15: Dc around.
Rnd 16: 2 dc, 1 dc2tog, 16 dc, 1 dc2tog, 14 dc. 34 sts
Rnd 17: Dc around.
Rnd 18: [1 dc2tog, 1 dc, 1 dc2tog, 12 dc] twice. 30 sts
Rnds 19-22: Dc around.
Rnd 23: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnds 24-27: Dc around.
Rnd 28: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnds 29-32: Dc around.
Rnd 33: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnds 34-37: Dc around.
Rnd 38: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Fasten off. Weave yarn tail through FLO of last 6 sts and pull to close hole. Leave a long yarn tail for sewing the Tail onto the Body, once you've made all the parts.
Worked from front of the Body back to the Tail. Stuff as you go. Chains are not included in the stitch count. This piece is made using an Oval Start, rather than using a magic ring, if you are unfamiliar with this technique, you can find a Photo Tutorial showing the principle of it HERE.
With MC, chain 13.
Rnd 1: Starting in the second ch from hook, 12 dc, 2 ch, rotating as you go, 12 dc in other side of ch, 2 ch. 24 sts
Rnd 2: [12 dc, 3 dc in 2 ch-sp] twice. 30 sts
Rnd 3: Dc around.
Rnd 4: 2 dc in next st, 12 dc, [2 dc in next st] 3 times, 12 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice. 36 sts
Rnd 5: 2 dc in next st, 13 dc, [2 dc in next st, 1 dc] twice, 2 dc in next st, 13 dc, [2 dc in next st, 1 dc] twice. 42 sts
Rnds 6-8: Dc around.
Rnd 9: [19 dc, 1 dc2tog] twice. 40 sts
Rnd 10: Dc around.
Rnd 11: 1 dc, 1 dc2tog, 15 dc, 1 dc2tog, 1 dc, 1 dc2tog, 15 dc, 1 dc2tog. 36 sts
Rnds 12-15: Dc around.
Rnd 16: 2 dc, 1 dc2tog, 16 dc, 1 dc2tog, 14 dc. 34 sts
Rnd 17: Dc around.
Rnd 18: [1 dc2tog, 1 dc, 1 dc2tog, 12 dc] twice. 30 sts
Rnds 19-22: Dc around.
Rnd 23: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnds 24-27: Dc around.
Rnd 28: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnds 29-32: Dc around.
Rnd 33: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnds 34-37: Dc around.
Rnd 38: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Fasten off. Weave yarn tail through FLO of last 6 sts and pull to close hole. Leave a long yarn tail for sewing the Tail onto the Body, once you've made all the parts.
Top Fin - Large
Worked from the tip of the Fin downwards. Do not stuff.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 4 dc. 4 sts
Rnd 2: [2 dc in next st] twice, 2 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 3: Dc around.
Rnd 4: 1 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice, 3 dc. 8 sts
Rnd 5: Dc around.
Rnd 6: 2 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice, 4 dc. 10 sts
Rnd 7: 3 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice, 5 dc. 12 sts
Rnd 8: 4 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice, 6 dc. 14 sts
Rnd 9: 5 dc, [ 2 dc in next st] twice, 7 dc. 16 sts
Rnd 10: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Fin to the Body once you've made all the parts.
Worked from the tip of the Fin downwards. Do not stuff.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 4 dc. 4 sts
Rnd 2: [2 dc in next st] twice, 2 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 3: Dc around.
Rnd 4: 1 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice, 3 dc. 8 sts
Rnd 5: Dc around.
Rnd 6: 2 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice, 4 dc. 10 sts
Rnd 7: 3 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice, 5 dc. 12 sts
Rnd 8: 4 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice, 6 dc. 14 sts
Rnd 9: 5 dc, [ 2 dc in next st] twice, 7 dc. 16 sts
Rnd 10: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Fin to the Body once you've made all the parts.
Top Fin - Small
Worked from the tip of the Fin downwards. Do not stuff.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 4 dc. 4 sts
Rnd 2: [2 dc in next st] twice, 2 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 3: 1 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice, 3 dc. 8 sts
Rnd 4: 2 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice, 4 dc. 10 sts
Rnd 5: 3 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice, 5 dc. 12 sts
Rnd 6: 4 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice, 6 dc. 14 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Fin to the Body once you've made all the parts.
Worked from the tip of the Fin downwards. Do not stuff.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 4 dc. 4 sts
Rnd 2: [2 dc in next st] twice, 2 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 3: 1 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice, 3 dc. 8 sts
Rnd 4: 2 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice, 4 dc. 10 sts
Rnd 5: 3 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice, 5 dc. 12 sts
Rnd 6: 4 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice, 6 dc. 14 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Fin to the Body once you've made all the parts.
Tail
Worked from the end where it joins onto the Body, out to the tips of the fins. Do not stuff.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: Dc around.
Rnd 4: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 5: Dc around.
Rnd 6: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
You will now start to work the first Tail Fin:
Rnd 7: 6 dc, miss next 12 sts, 6 dc. 12 sts Leave the missed stitches unworked.
Rnd 8: 5 dc, 1 dc2tog, 5 dc. 11 sts
Rnd 9: 5 dc, 1 dc2tog, 4 dc. 10 sts
Rnd 10: 4 dc, 1 dc2tog, 4 dc. 9 sts
Rnd 11: 4 dc, 1 dc2tog, 3 dc. 8 sts
Rnd 12: 3 dc, 1 dc2tog, 3 dc. 7 sts
Rnd 13: 3 dc, 1 dc2tog, 2 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 14: 3 dc, 1 dc2tog, 1 dc. 5 sts
Rnd 15: 3 dc, 1 dc2tog. 4 sts
Fasten off. Weave yarn tail through FLO of last 4 sts and pull to close hole. Weave in end.
You are now going to work the second Tail Fin, using the unused stitches of Rnd 6.
Worked from the end where it joins onto the Body, out to the tips of the fins. Do not stuff.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: Dc around.
Rnd 4: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 5: Dc around.
Rnd 6: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
You will now start to work the first Tail Fin:
Rnd 7: 6 dc, miss next 12 sts, 6 dc. 12 sts Leave the missed stitches unworked.
Rnd 8: 5 dc, 1 dc2tog, 5 dc. 11 sts
Rnd 9: 5 dc, 1 dc2tog, 4 dc. 10 sts
Rnd 10: 4 dc, 1 dc2tog, 4 dc. 9 sts
Rnd 11: 4 dc, 1 dc2tog, 3 dc. 8 sts
Rnd 12: 3 dc, 1 dc2tog, 3 dc. 7 sts
Rnd 13: 3 dc, 1 dc2tog, 2 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 14: 3 dc, 1 dc2tog, 1 dc. 5 sts
Rnd 15: 3 dc, 1 dc2tog. 4 sts
Fasten off. Weave yarn tail through FLO of last 4 sts and pull to close hole. Weave in end.
You are now going to work the second Tail Fin, using the unused stitches of Rnd 6.
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Starting in the seventh unused stitch of Rnd 6, work Rnds 8-15 above to make the second Tail Fin.
Fasten off. Weave yarn tail through FLO of last 4 sts and pull to close hole. Weave in end.
Fasten off. Weave yarn tail through FLO of last 4 sts and pull to close hole. Weave in end.
Side Fins - make 2
Worked from the tip of the Fin downwards. Do not stuff.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 4 dc. 4 sts
Rnd 2: [2 dc in next st] twice, 2 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 3: Dc around.
Rnd 4: 1 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice, 3 dc. 8 sts
Rnd 5: Dc around.
Rnd 6: 2 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice, 4 dc. 10 sts
Rnd 7: 3 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice, 5 dc. 12 sts
Rnd 8: Dc around.
Rnd 9: 4 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice, 6 dc. 14 sts
Rnd 10: 5 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice, 7 dc. 16 sts
Rnd 11: Dc around.
Rnd 12: 6 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice, 8 dc. 18 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Fin to the Body once you've made all the parts.
Worked from the tip of the Fin downwards. Do not stuff.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 4 dc. 4 sts
Rnd 2: [2 dc in next st] twice, 2 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 3: Dc around.
Rnd 4: 1 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice, 3 dc. 8 sts
Rnd 5: Dc around.
Rnd 6: 2 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice, 4 dc. 10 sts
Rnd 7: 3 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice, 5 dc. 12 sts
Rnd 8: Dc around.
Rnd 9: 4 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice, 6 dc. 14 sts
Rnd 10: 5 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice, 7 dc. 16 sts
Rnd 11: Dc around.
Rnd 12: 6 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice, 8 dc. 18 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Fin to the Body once you've made all the parts.
Outer Eyes - make 2
Rnd 1: With CC1 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around, sl st in first dc of round to join. 12 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Outer Eye to the Body once you've made all the parts.
Rnd 1: With CC1 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around, sl st in first dc of round to join. 12 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Outer Eye to the Body once you've made all the parts.
Pupils - make 2
Rnd 1: With CC2 and working into a magic ring, 4 dc, sl st in first dc of round to join. 4 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Pupil to the Outer Eye once you've made all the parts.
Rnd 1: With CC2 and working into a magic ring, 4 dc, sl st in first dc of round to join. 4 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Pupil to the Outer Eye once you've made all the parts.
Underside
The white underside is worked in turned rows from the Tail end of the Body up to the Head. The starting and turning chains are not included in the stitch count.
With CC1, chain 3.
Row 1: Staring in the second ch from the hook, 2 dc. Turn. 2 sts
Row 2: 1 ch, [2 dc in next st] twice. Turn. 4 sts
Row 3: 1 ch, dc across. Turn.
Row 4: 1 ch, 2 dc in next st, 2 dc, 2 dc in next st. Turn. 6 sts
Rows 5-6: 1 ch, dc across. Turn.
Row 7: 1 ch, 2 dc in next st, 4 dc, 2 dc in next st. Turn. 8 sts
Rows 8-9: 1 ch, dc across. Turn.
Row 10: 1 ch, 2 dc in next st, 6 dc, 2 dc in next st. Turn. 10 sts
Rows 11-12: 1 ch, dc across. Turn.
Row 13: 1 ch, 2 dc in next st, 8 dc, 2 dc in next st. Turn. 12 sts
Rows 14-15: 1 ch, dc across. Turn.
Row 16: 1 ch, 2 dc in next st, 10 dc, 2 dc in next st. Turn. 14 sts
Rows 17-18: 1 ch, dc across. Turn.
Row 19: 1 ch, 2 dc in next st, 12 dc, 2 dc in next st. Turn. 16 sts
Rows 20-21: 1 ch, dc across. Turn.
Row 22: 1 ch, 2 dc in next st, 14 dc, 2 dc in next st. Turn. 18 sts
Rows 23-24: 1 ch, dc across. Turn.
Row 25: 1 ch, 2 dc in next st, 16 dc, 2 dc in next st. Turn. 20 sts
Rows 26-27: 1 ch, dc across. Turn.
Row 28: 1 ch, 2 dc in next st, 18 dc, 2 dc in next st. Turn. 22 sts
Rows 29-30: 1 ch, dc across. Turn.
Row 31: 1 ch, 2 dc in next st, 20 dc, 2 dc in next st. Turn. 24 sts
Rows 32-35: 1 ch, dc across. Turn.
Row 36: 1 ch, 2 dc, 1 dc2tog, 1 dc, 1 dc2tog, 10 dc, 1 dc2tog, 1 dc, 1 dc2tog, 2dc. Turn. 20 sts
Row 37: 1 ch, 1 dc, 1 dc2tog, 14 dc, 1 dc2tog, 1 dc. Turn. 18 sts
Row 38: 1 ch, 1 dc, 1 dc2tog, 12 dc, 1 dc2tog, 1 dc. Turn. 16 sts
Row 39: 1 ch, 1 dc, 1 dc2tog, 10 dc, 1 dc2tog, 1 dc. Turn. 14 sts
Row 40: 1 ch, 1 dc, 1 dc2tog, 8 dc, 1 dc2tog, 1 dc. Turn. 12 sts
Row 41: 1 ch, 1 dc, 1 dc2tog, 6 dc, 1 dc2tog, 1 dc. Turn. 10 sts
Row 42: 1 ch, 1 dc2tog, 6 dc, 1 dc2tog. 8 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Underside to the Body once you've made all the parts.
The white underside is worked in turned rows from the Tail end of the Body up to the Head. The starting and turning chains are not included in the stitch count.
With CC1, chain 3.
Row 1: Staring in the second ch from the hook, 2 dc. Turn. 2 sts
Row 2: 1 ch, [2 dc in next st] twice. Turn. 4 sts
Row 3: 1 ch, dc across. Turn.
Row 4: 1 ch, 2 dc in next st, 2 dc, 2 dc in next st. Turn. 6 sts
Rows 5-6: 1 ch, dc across. Turn.
Row 7: 1 ch, 2 dc in next st, 4 dc, 2 dc in next st. Turn. 8 sts
Rows 8-9: 1 ch, dc across. Turn.
Row 10: 1 ch, 2 dc in next st, 6 dc, 2 dc in next st. Turn. 10 sts
Rows 11-12: 1 ch, dc across. Turn.
Row 13: 1 ch, 2 dc in next st, 8 dc, 2 dc in next st. Turn. 12 sts
Rows 14-15: 1 ch, dc across. Turn.
Row 16: 1 ch, 2 dc in next st, 10 dc, 2 dc in next st. Turn. 14 sts
Rows 17-18: 1 ch, dc across. Turn.
Row 19: 1 ch, 2 dc in next st, 12 dc, 2 dc in next st. Turn. 16 sts
Rows 20-21: 1 ch, dc across. Turn.
Row 22: 1 ch, 2 dc in next st, 14 dc, 2 dc in next st. Turn. 18 sts
Rows 23-24: 1 ch, dc across. Turn.
Row 25: 1 ch, 2 dc in next st, 16 dc, 2 dc in next st. Turn. 20 sts
Rows 26-27: 1 ch, dc across. Turn.
Row 28: 1 ch, 2 dc in next st, 18 dc, 2 dc in next st. Turn. 22 sts
Rows 29-30: 1 ch, dc across. Turn.
Row 31: 1 ch, 2 dc in next st, 20 dc, 2 dc in next st. Turn. 24 sts
Rows 32-35: 1 ch, dc across. Turn.
Row 36: 1 ch, 2 dc, 1 dc2tog, 1 dc, 1 dc2tog, 10 dc, 1 dc2tog, 1 dc, 1 dc2tog, 2dc. Turn. 20 sts
Row 37: 1 ch, 1 dc, 1 dc2tog, 14 dc, 1 dc2tog, 1 dc. Turn. 18 sts
Row 38: 1 ch, 1 dc, 1 dc2tog, 12 dc, 1 dc2tog, 1 dc. Turn. 16 sts
Row 39: 1 ch, 1 dc, 1 dc2tog, 10 dc, 1 dc2tog, 1 dc. Turn. 14 sts
Row 40: 1 ch, 1 dc, 1 dc2tog, 8 dc, 1 dc2tog, 1 dc. Turn. 12 sts
Row 41: 1 ch, 1 dc, 1 dc2tog, 6 dc, 1 dc2tog, 1 dc. Turn. 10 sts
Row 42: 1 ch, 1 dc2tog, 6 dc, 1 dc2tog. 8 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Underside to the Body once you've made all the parts.
Whale Shark - front view
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Whale Shark - underside
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Making Up
Using the photographs as a guide, pin the pieces together before sewing, checking from all angles to make sure you’re happy with the positioning, then use the long yarn tails or a length of yarn with a yarn needle to stitch the pieces together.
Before you start positioning the pieces, you may find it helpful to insert a line of pins running down the middle of the back of the Body - this will help you to position everything else evenly in relation to that central line. Remove any pins that are in the way of the pieces you are attaching as you go.
Sew the Underside to the Body.
Sew the Tail in place perpendicular to the back of the Body.
Sew the Large Top Fin to the Whale Shark's back, on the centre line. The front edge of the Fin should sit roughly in line with Rnd 16 of the Body.
Sew the Small Top Fin in place behind the Large Top Fin. There should be a gap of about 3 Rnds between the two Fins.
Sew the two Side Fins in place either side of the Body. They should sit on the seam line where the Underside joins onto the Body and their front edge should sit roughly in line with Rnd 16 of the Body so that they align with the front edge of the Large Top Fin.
Sew the Outer Eyes in place on the Head end of the Body - they should be about 9 stitches apart and their lower edge should be just above the white of the Underside.
Sew the Pupils in place on to of the Outer Eyes, offset downwards slightly in relation to the Outer Eye.
Using the photographs as a guide, pin the pieces together before sewing, checking from all angles to make sure you’re happy with the positioning, then use the long yarn tails or a length of yarn with a yarn needle to stitch the pieces together.
Before you start positioning the pieces, you may find it helpful to insert a line of pins running down the middle of the back of the Body - this will help you to position everything else evenly in relation to that central line. Remove any pins that are in the way of the pieces you are attaching as you go.
Sew the Underside to the Body.
Sew the Tail in place perpendicular to the back of the Body.
Sew the Large Top Fin to the Whale Shark's back, on the centre line. The front edge of the Fin should sit roughly in line with Rnd 16 of the Body.
Sew the Small Top Fin in place behind the Large Top Fin. There should be a gap of about 3 Rnds between the two Fins.
Sew the two Side Fins in place either side of the Body. They should sit on the seam line where the Underside joins onto the Body and their front edge should sit roughly in line with Rnd 16 of the Body so that they align with the front edge of the Large Top Fin.
Sew the Outer Eyes in place on the Head end of the Body - they should be about 9 stitches apart and their lower edge should be just above the white of the Underside.
Sew the Pupils in place on to of the Outer Eyes, offset downwards slightly in relation to the Outer Eye.
Whale shark - face detail
Embroidered Details
Using the photos as a guide, embroider the following:
With CC1, sew a single stitch highlight on each Eye and embroider the decorative lines, spots and stars on the Whale Shark's Back, Tail and Side Fins.
With CC2, embroider the Whale Shark's mouth.
Using the photos as a guide, embroider the following:
With CC1, sew a single stitch highlight on each Eye and embroider the decorative lines, spots and stars on the Whale Shark's Back, Tail and Side Fins.
With CC2, embroider the Whale Shark's mouth.
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I am happy for you to donate, gift or sell any of the my crochet chums you make if you are an individual crafter - please credit mycrochetchums.com as the designer.
If you do wish to sell your my crochet chums, it is your responsibility to ensure that the finished item complies with the relevant toy legislation in your country.
Please be sure to use toy grade stuffing and do not add buttons, bells, ribbons etc that could be a danger to small children.
The patterns are copyright protected and are not for commercial use. They cannot be sold, transmitted, distributed or reproduced in any form or by any means. I’ve worked hard to create the designs - please don’t sell my patterns - it’s just plain mean!
I am happy for you to donate, gift or sell any of the my crochet chums you make if you are an individual crafter - please credit mycrochetchums.com as the designer.
If you do wish to sell your my crochet chums, it is your responsibility to ensure that the finished item complies with the relevant toy legislation in your country.
Please be sure to use toy grade stuffing and do not add buttons, bells, ribbons etc that could be a danger to small children.
The patterns are copyright protected and are not for commercial use. They cannot be sold, transmitted, distributed or reproduced in any form or by any means. I’ve worked hard to create the designs - please don’t sell my patterns - it’s just plain mean!
About mycrochetchums
I started mycrochetchums at the end of 2020 to give me something to focus on during lockdown and to make creative use of a box of Amigurumi Yarn that was an impulse purchase I was feeling guilty about!
I’m loving creating these cute characters and sharpening my tech skills in the process as I wrangle with managing a website and social media.
Check out the mycrochetchums Facebook page - drop me a message there if you have any feedback about the pattern or would like to share a picture of the end result.
You can also find me on Instagram @mycrochetchums.
If you have any questions about any of my patterns (or any other ami you may be working on) please email me at: [email protected] - I’ll do my best to help!
Happy Crocheting!
Pia x
©2022PIA SIMPSON/ MYCROCHETCHUMS
I started mycrochetchums at the end of 2020 to give me something to focus on during lockdown and to make creative use of a box of Amigurumi Yarn that was an impulse purchase I was feeling guilty about!
I’m loving creating these cute characters and sharpening my tech skills in the process as I wrangle with managing a website and social media.
Check out the mycrochetchums Facebook page - drop me a message there if you have any feedback about the pattern or would like to share a picture of the end result.
You can also find me on Instagram @mycrochetchums.
If you have any questions about any of my patterns (or any other ami you may be working on) please email me at: [email protected] - I’ll do my best to help!
Happy Crocheting!
Pia x
©2022PIA SIMPSON/ MYCROCHETCHUMS
