Free Amigurumi Crochet Kangaroo Pattern
No 54 - Kangaroo
Scroll down for pattern and more photos!
Yarn
Yarn & Colors Must Have. 100% Cotton. 125m per 50g
MC: 50g approx of Clay (005) for Body, Head, Ears, Arms, Legs and Tail and Baby Kangaroo.
CC1: 20g approx of Cream (002) for Head, Ears, Pouch and Embroidered details.
CC2: 5g approx of Brunet (027) for Noses, Mouth and Eyes.
A cotton yarn works well for Ami as it gives good stitch definition and creates a firm structure so body parts hold their shape well. Must Have is a relatively thick 4 ply (US: Sport) - you can substitute a DK Cotton (US: DK/Light Worsted) with a similar amount of metres per 50g.
Yarn & Colors Must Have. 100% Cotton. 125m per 50g
MC: 50g approx of Clay (005) for Body, Head, Ears, Arms, Legs and Tail and Baby Kangaroo.
CC1: 20g approx of Cream (002) for Head, Ears, Pouch and Embroidered details.
CC2: 5g approx of Brunet (027) for Noses, Mouth and Eyes.
A cotton yarn works well for Ami as it gives good stitch definition and creates a firm structure so body parts hold their shape well. Must Have is a relatively thick 4 ply (US: Sport) - you can substitute a DK Cotton (US: DK/Light Worsted) with a similar amount of metres per 50g.
Hook
3mm
3mm
Other Supplies
Yarn needle, toy stuffing, stitch marker/waste yarn, pins and scissors.
Yarn needle, toy stuffing, stitch marker/waste yarn, pins and scissors.
Tension
24 sts x 27 rows = 10cm measured over dc using 3mm hook.
Tension is not critical for this project but stitches should be tight enough to avoid stuffing showing through.
24 sts x 27 rows = 10cm measured over dc using 3mm hook.
Tension is not critical for this project but stitches should be tight enough to avoid stuffing showing through.
Size
18 cm (7 in) approx from tip of ears to base.
18 cm (7 in) approx from tip of ears to base.
Pattern Notes
Unless otherwise specified this pattern is worked in the amigurumi style, in a continuous spiral without slip stitching or turning chains.
Use a stitch marker or waste yarn to keep track of the first stitch of each round.
If you do not want to make a Magic Ring you can start each piece by making a chain of 2 and then work the first round into the second chain from the hook.
If you would like to start with a Magic Ring but don’t know how, you can find a Photo Tutorial HERE.
The big Kangaroo's pouch is made using turned rows.
The Kangaroos are made of multiple separate pieces sewn together. Unless otherwise stated, finish each piece by pulling the yarn through the last loop and leave a long tail for sewing. Any loose tails at the end can be easily woven in.
Unless otherwise specified this pattern is worked in the amigurumi style, in a continuous spiral without slip stitching or turning chains.
Use a stitch marker or waste yarn to keep track of the first stitch of each round.
If you do not want to make a Magic Ring you can start each piece by making a chain of 2 and then work the first round into the second chain from the hook.
If you would like to start with a Magic Ring but don’t know how, you can find a Photo Tutorial HERE.
The big Kangaroo's pouch is made using turned rows.
The Kangaroos are made of multiple separate pieces sewn together. Unless otherwise stated, finish each piece by pulling the yarn through the last loop and leave a long tail for sewing. Any loose tails at the end can be easily woven in.
UK Crochet Terms - Abbreviations
This pattern is written using UK Crochet Terms - they are NOT the same as US ones - please familiarise yourself with the UK terms to avoid your character’s shape distorting!
The “dc” abbreviation used in this pattern refers to UK double crochet. The equivalent stitch in US terms is single crochet - if you are used to US patterns you need to work single crochet everywhere this pattern says “dc”. If you work US dc (equivalent to UK Treble) the finished item will be elongated and the stuffing will show through.
This pattern also uses UK htr - half treble. The equivalent stitch in US terms is hdc - half double.
If you are used to working in US Crochet Terms you can find a conversion chart HERE.
If you are unfamiliar with any of the terms used in this pattern, you can find a chart of the UK Crochet terms used HERE.
Sign up to the Mailing List at the top of the page to access free printable PDF versions of this pattern in UK or US terms.
This pattern is written using UK Crochet Terms - they are NOT the same as US ones - please familiarise yourself with the UK terms to avoid your character’s shape distorting!
The “dc” abbreviation used in this pattern refers to UK double crochet. The equivalent stitch in US terms is single crochet - if you are used to US patterns you need to work single crochet everywhere this pattern says “dc”. If you work US dc (equivalent to UK Treble) the finished item will be elongated and the stuffing will show through.
This pattern also uses UK htr - half treble. The equivalent stitch in US terms is hdc - half double.
If you are used to working in US Crochet Terms you can find a conversion chart HERE.
If you are unfamiliar with any of the terms used in this pattern, you can find a chart of the UK Crochet terms used HERE.
Sign up to the Mailing List at the top of the page to access free printable PDF versions of this pattern in UK or US terms.
Increasing and decreasing
You may use either standard increases and decreases in this pattern or, for a much neater finish, invisible ones. FLO = Front loop only.
Decrease - "dc2tog" in pattern.
Invisible decrease: Insert hook in FLO of the two stitches to be decreased, yoh, pull through both front loops, yoh, draw through two loops on hook.
Increase - "2 dc in next st" in pattern.
Invisible Increase: Work 1 dc in FLO of next st and 1 dc in both loops of same st.
You may use either standard increases and decreases in this pattern or, for a much neater finish, invisible ones. FLO = Front loop only.
Decrease - "dc2tog" in pattern.
Invisible decrease: Insert hook in FLO of the two stitches to be decreased, yoh, pull through both front loops, yoh, draw through two loops on hook.
Increase - "2 dc in next st" in pattern.
Invisible Increase: Work 1 dc in FLO of next st and 1 dc in both loops of same st.
Kangaroo - right side
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Kangaroo - left side
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Big Kangaroo
Big Kangaroo: Head
Worked from front of Head to back. Stuff as you go. The increases in Rnds 9 and 11 create the upwards slope on the top of the Head where the eyes will sit - take note of the shape so that you know which is the top of the Head when you come to attach the Body later.
Rnd 1: With CC1 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnds 4-6: Dc around.
Change to MC.
Rnds 7-8: Dc around.
Rnd 9: 6 dc, [2 dc in next st, 2 dc] twice, 2 dc in next st, 5 dc. 21 sts
Rnd 10: Dc around.
Rnd 11: 7 dc, [2 dc in next st, 3 dc] twice, 2 dc in next st, 5 dc. 24 sts
Rnd 12: Dc around.
Rnd 13: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 14: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnd 15: [5 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 42 sts
Rnd 16: [6 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 48 sts
Rnds 17-18: Dc around.
Rnd 19: 22 dc, [1 dc2tog, 3 dc] twice, 1 dc2tog, 14 dc. 45 sts
Rnd 20: 21 dc, [1 dc2tog, 2 dc] twice, 1 dc2tog, 14 dc. 42 sts
Rnd 21: Dc around.
Rnd 22: [5 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnd 23: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 24: Dc around.
Rnd 25: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 26: Dc around.
Rnd 27: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 28: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnd 29: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Fasten off. Weave yarn tail through FLO of last 6 sts and pull to close hole. Weave in end.
Big Kangaroo: Head
Worked from front of Head to back. Stuff as you go. The increases in Rnds 9 and 11 create the upwards slope on the top of the Head where the eyes will sit - take note of the shape so that you know which is the top of the Head when you come to attach the Body later.
Rnd 1: With CC1 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnds 4-6: Dc around.
Change to MC.
Rnds 7-8: Dc around.
Rnd 9: 6 dc, [2 dc in next st, 2 dc] twice, 2 dc in next st, 5 dc. 21 sts
Rnd 10: Dc around.
Rnd 11: 7 dc, [2 dc in next st, 3 dc] twice, 2 dc in next st, 5 dc. 24 sts
Rnd 12: Dc around.
Rnd 13: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 14: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnd 15: [5 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 42 sts
Rnd 16: [6 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 48 sts
Rnds 17-18: Dc around.
Rnd 19: 22 dc, [1 dc2tog, 3 dc] twice, 1 dc2tog, 14 dc. 45 sts
Rnd 20: 21 dc, [1 dc2tog, 2 dc] twice, 1 dc2tog, 14 dc. 42 sts
Rnd 21: Dc around.
Rnd 22: [5 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnd 23: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 24: Dc around.
Rnd 25: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 26: Dc around.
Rnd 27: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 28: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnd 29: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Fasten off. Weave yarn tail through FLO of last 6 sts and pull to close hole. Weave in end.
Big Kangaroo: Body
Worked from the bottom of the Body up. Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 6: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnd 7: Dc around.
Rnd 8: [5 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 42 sts
Rnds 9-15: Dc around.
Rnd 16: [5 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnds 17-19: Dc around.
Rnd 20: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 21: Dc around.
Rnd 22: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 23: Dc around.
Rnd 24: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnds 25-28: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Body to the Head once you've made all the parts.
Worked from the bottom of the Body up. Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 6: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnd 7: Dc around.
Rnd 8: [5 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 42 sts
Rnds 9-15: Dc around.
Rnd 16: [5 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnds 17-19: Dc around.
Rnd 20: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 21: Dc around.
Rnd 22: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 23: Dc around.
Rnd 24: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnds 25-28: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Body to the Head once you've made all the parts.
Big Kangaroo: Ears - make 2
Worked from top of the Ear downwards. Do not stuff.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: Dc around.
Rnd 3: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnds 4-5: Dc around.
Rnd 6: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnds 7-8: Dc around.
Rnd 9: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnd 10: Dc around.
Rnd 11: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnd 12: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Ears to the Head once you've made all the parts.
Worked from top of the Ear downwards. Do not stuff.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: Dc around.
Rnd 3: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnds 4-5: Dc around.
Rnd 6: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnds 7-8: Dc around.
Rnd 9: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnd 10: Dc around.
Rnd 11: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnd 12: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Ears to the Head once you've made all the parts.
Big Kangaroo: Inner Ears - make 2
Made using an Oval Start rather than a magic ring. If you are unfamiliar with this technique, check out the photo tutorial HERE. The chains and slip stitch are not counted in the stitch count.
With CC1, chain 5.
Rnd 1: Starting in the second chain from the hook, 1 dc, 2 htr, 1 dc, 1 ch, rotating as you go, in the other side of the chain work 1 dc, 2 htr, 1 dc, sl st into first dc to join. 8 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Inner Ears to the Ears once you've made all the parts.
Made using an Oval Start rather than a magic ring. If you are unfamiliar with this technique, check out the photo tutorial HERE. The chains and slip stitch are not counted in the stitch count.
With CC1, chain 5.
Rnd 1: Starting in the second chain from the hook, 1 dc, 2 htr, 1 dc, 1 ch, rotating as you go, in the other side of the chain work 1 dc, 2 htr, 1 dc, sl st into first dc to join. 8 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Inner Ears to the Ears once you've made all the parts.
Big Kangaroo: Arms- make 2
Made from the paw end of the arm working up towards the top of the arm. Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With MC and working in a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnds 3-6: Dc around.
Rnd 7: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnds 8-11: Dc around.
Rnd 12: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 6 sts
Rnds 13-14: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Arms to the Body once you've made all the parts.
Made from the paw end of the arm working up towards the top of the arm. Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With MC and working in a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnds 3-6: Dc around.
Rnd 7: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnds 8-11: Dc around.
Rnd 12: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 6 sts
Rnds 13-14: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Arms to the Body once you've made all the parts.
Big Kangaroo: Thighs- make 2
Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnds 6-7: Dc around.
Rnd 8: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Thighs to the Body once you've made all the parts.
Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnds 6-7: Dc around.
Rnd 8: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Thighs to the Body once you've made all the parts.
Big Kangaroo: Feet- make 2
Stuff up to and including Rnd 7 lightly as you go, do not stuff the remaining rounds.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnds 3-5: Dc around.
Rnd 6: 1 dc2tog, 7 dc. 8 sts
Rnd 7: Dc around.
Rnd 8: 1 dc2tog, 6 dc. 7 sts
Rnd 9: Dc around.
Rnd 10: 1 dc2tog, 5 dc. 6 sts
Rnds 11-12: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Feet to the underside of the Thighs once you've made all the parts.
Stuff up to and including Rnd 7 lightly as you go, do not stuff the remaining rounds.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnds 3-5: Dc around.
Rnd 6: 1 dc2tog, 7 dc. 8 sts
Rnd 7: Dc around.
Rnd 8: 1 dc2tog, 6 dc. 7 sts
Rnd 9: Dc around.
Rnd 10: 1 dc2tog, 5 dc. 6 sts
Rnds 11-12: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Feet to the underside of the Thighs once you've made all the parts.
Big Kangaroo: Eyes - make 2
Rnd 1: With CC2 and working into a magic ring, 4 dc, sl st in first dc to join. 4 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Eyes to the Head once you have made all the parts.
Rnd 1: With CC2 and working into a magic ring, 4 dc, sl st in first dc to join. 4 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Eyes to the Head once you have made all the parts.
Big Kangaroo: Nose
Do not stuff.
Rnd 1: With CC2 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Nose to the Head once you have made all the parts.
Do not stuff.
Rnd 1: With CC2 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Nose to the Head once you have made all the parts.
Big Kangaroo: Tail
Worked from the tip of the Tail up. The increases and decreases in Rnds 5, 7 and 15 create the curve in the tail. Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in next st, 5 dc. 7 sts
Rnd 3: 1 dc, 2 dc in next st, 5 dc. 8 sts
Rnd 4: 2 dc, 2 dc in next st, 5 dc. 9 sts
Rnd 5: 2 dc, 2 dc in next st, 3 dc, 1 dc2tog, 1 dc. 9 sts
Rnd 6: 3 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice, 4 dc. 11 sts
Rnd 7: 4 dc, 2 dc in next st, 4 dc, 1 dc2tog. 11 sts
Rnd 8: 4 dc, 2 dc in next st, 6 dc. 12 sts
Rnd 9: Dc around.
Rnd 10: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnds 11-12: Dc around.
Rnd 13: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 14: Dc around.
Rnd 15: 1 dc2tog, 1 dc, 1 dc2tog, 7 dc, 2 dc in next st, 3 dc, 2 dc in next st, 7 dc. 24 sts
Rnd 16: Dc around.
Rnd 17: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Tail to the Body once you have made all the parts.
Worked from the tip of the Tail up. The increases and decreases in Rnds 5, 7 and 15 create the curve in the tail. Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in next st, 5 dc. 7 sts
Rnd 3: 1 dc, 2 dc in next st, 5 dc. 8 sts
Rnd 4: 2 dc, 2 dc in next st, 5 dc. 9 sts
Rnd 5: 2 dc, 2 dc in next st, 3 dc, 1 dc2tog, 1 dc. 9 sts
Rnd 6: 3 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice, 4 dc. 11 sts
Rnd 7: 4 dc, 2 dc in next st, 4 dc, 1 dc2tog. 11 sts
Rnd 8: 4 dc, 2 dc in next st, 6 dc. 12 sts
Rnd 9: Dc around.
Rnd 10: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnds 11-12: Dc around.
Rnd 13: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 14: Dc around.
Rnd 15: 1 dc2tog, 1 dc, 1 dc2tog, 7 dc, 2 dc in next st, 3 dc, 2 dc in next st, 7 dc. 24 sts
Rnd 16: Dc around.
Rnd 17: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Tail to the Body once you have made all the parts.
Big Kangaroo: Chest & Pouch
The Chest and Pouch are made in one piece in turned rows. Worked from the top of the Chest down. Row 22 is worked in the back loops only - this allows the bottom part of the piece to fold upwards, creating the front of the Pouch. The single chain at the start of each Row is not included in the stitch count. Use ordinary increases and decreases rather than invisible ones as you are working in rows.
With CC1, chain 5.
Row 1: Starting in the second ch from the hook, 4 dc. Turn. 4 sts
Row 2: 1 ch, dc across. Turn.
Row 3: 1 ch, 2 dc in next st, 2 dc, 2 dc in next st. Turn. 6 sts
Row 4: 1 ch, dc across. Turn.
Row 5: 1 ch, 2 dc in next st, 4 dc, 2 dc in next st. Turn. 8 sts
Row 6: 1 ch, dc across. Turn.
Row 7: 1 ch, 2 dc in next st, 6 dc, 2 dc in next st. Turn. 10 sts
Row 8: 1 ch, 2 dc in next st, 8 dc, 2 dc in next st. Turn. 12 sts
Row 9: 1 ch, 2 dc in next st, 10 dc, 2 dc in next st. Turn. 14 sts
Rows 10-14: 1 ch, dc across. Turn.
Row 15: 1 ch, 1 dc2tog, 10 dc, 1 dc2tog. Turn. 12 sts
Row 16: 1 ch, dc across. Turn.
Row 17: 1 ch, 1 dc2tog, 8 dc, 1 dc2tog. Turn. 10 sts
Row 18: 1 ch, dc across. Turn.
Row 19: 1 ch, 1 dc2tog, 6 dc, 1 dc2tog. Turn. 8 sts
Row 20: 1 ch, 1 dc2tog, 4 dc, 1 dc2tog. Turn. 6 sts
Row 21: 1 ch, 1 dc2tog, 2 dc, 1 dc2tog. Turn. 4 sts
Row 22: Working in the BLO for the whole row, 1 ch, 2 dc in next st, 2 dc, 2 dc in next st. Turn. 6 sts
Row 23: 1 ch, 2 dc in next st, 4 dc, 2 dc in next st. Turn. 8 sts
Row 24: 1 ch, 2 dc in next st, 6 dc, 2 dc in next st. Turn. 10 sts
Row 25: 1 ch, 2 dc in next st, 8 dc, 2 dc in next st. Turn. 12 sts
Row 26: 1 ch, 2 dc in next st, 10 dc, 2 dc in next st. Turn. 14 sts
Row 27: 1 ch, 2 dc in next st, 12 dc, 2 dc in next st. Turn. 16 sts
Row 28: 1 ch, 2 dc in next st, 14 dc, 2 dc in next st. Turn. 18 sts
Row 29: 1 ch, 2 dc in next st, 16 dc, 2 dc in next st. Turn. 20 sts
Row 30: 1 ch, 2 dc in next st, 18 dc, 2 dc in next st. Turn. 22 sts
Rows 31-32: 1 ch, dc across. Turn.
Row 33: 1 ch, 1 dc2tog, 18 dc, 1 dc2tog. 20 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Chest & Pouch to the Body once you've made all the parts.
The Chest and Pouch are made in one piece in turned rows. Worked from the top of the Chest down. Row 22 is worked in the back loops only - this allows the bottom part of the piece to fold upwards, creating the front of the Pouch. The single chain at the start of each Row is not included in the stitch count. Use ordinary increases and decreases rather than invisible ones as you are working in rows.
With CC1, chain 5.
Row 1: Starting in the second ch from the hook, 4 dc. Turn. 4 sts
Row 2: 1 ch, dc across. Turn.
Row 3: 1 ch, 2 dc in next st, 2 dc, 2 dc in next st. Turn. 6 sts
Row 4: 1 ch, dc across. Turn.
Row 5: 1 ch, 2 dc in next st, 4 dc, 2 dc in next st. Turn. 8 sts
Row 6: 1 ch, dc across. Turn.
Row 7: 1 ch, 2 dc in next st, 6 dc, 2 dc in next st. Turn. 10 sts
Row 8: 1 ch, 2 dc in next st, 8 dc, 2 dc in next st. Turn. 12 sts
Row 9: 1 ch, 2 dc in next st, 10 dc, 2 dc in next st. Turn. 14 sts
Rows 10-14: 1 ch, dc across. Turn.
Row 15: 1 ch, 1 dc2tog, 10 dc, 1 dc2tog. Turn. 12 sts
Row 16: 1 ch, dc across. Turn.
Row 17: 1 ch, 1 dc2tog, 8 dc, 1 dc2tog. Turn. 10 sts
Row 18: 1 ch, dc across. Turn.
Row 19: 1 ch, 1 dc2tog, 6 dc, 1 dc2tog. Turn. 8 sts
Row 20: 1 ch, 1 dc2tog, 4 dc, 1 dc2tog. Turn. 6 sts
Row 21: 1 ch, 1 dc2tog, 2 dc, 1 dc2tog. Turn. 4 sts
Row 22: Working in the BLO for the whole row, 1 ch, 2 dc in next st, 2 dc, 2 dc in next st. Turn. 6 sts
Row 23: 1 ch, 2 dc in next st, 4 dc, 2 dc in next st. Turn. 8 sts
Row 24: 1 ch, 2 dc in next st, 6 dc, 2 dc in next st. Turn. 10 sts
Row 25: 1 ch, 2 dc in next st, 8 dc, 2 dc in next st. Turn. 12 sts
Row 26: 1 ch, 2 dc in next st, 10 dc, 2 dc in next st. Turn. 14 sts
Row 27: 1 ch, 2 dc in next st, 12 dc, 2 dc in next st. Turn. 16 sts
Row 28: 1 ch, 2 dc in next st, 14 dc, 2 dc in next st. Turn. 18 sts
Row 29: 1 ch, 2 dc in next st, 16 dc, 2 dc in next st. Turn. 20 sts
Row 30: 1 ch, 2 dc in next st, 18 dc, 2 dc in next st. Turn. 22 sts
Rows 31-32: 1 ch, dc across. Turn.
Row 33: 1 ch, 1 dc2tog, 18 dc, 1 dc2tog. 20 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Chest & Pouch to the Body once you've made all the parts.
Big Kangaroo - pouch detail
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Big Kangaroo - front left
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Making Up - Big Kangaroo
Using the photographs as a guide, pin the pieces together before sewing, checking from all angles to make sure you’re happy with the positioning, then use the long yarn tails or a length of yarn with a yarn needle to stitch the pieces together.
To make sure the head is the right way up, check that the point where you changed colour at the end of Rnd 6 is sitting under the chin. Sew the Body to the underside of the Head, with the front of the neck sitting roughly in line with Rnd 17 of the Head.
Sew the Eyes in place on the upper side of the Head, sitting roughly in line with Rnd 12 of it, with a gap of around 3 stitches between the Eyes.
Taking the open end of one Ear, pinch it together, folding the bottom of the Ear, and secure with a few stitches. Sew the Inner Ear in place. Repeat for second Ear and then sew them onto the Head, roughly in line with Rnd 16 of it and with a gap of about 5 stitches between the two Ears.
Sew the Nose in place on top of the muzzle end of the Head.
The Chest & Pouch were made as one piece. You created a "hinge" by working in the back loops only of Row 22 of this piece, allowing the front of the Pouch to fold up over the bottom of the Chest part. You will find this "hinge" folds easier one way than the other - fold it the "easy" way.
To confirm the piece is the right way round before you attach it, check that the last Row of the piece - which forms the top edge of the Pouch front - is facing the same way round as in the photos above (you should be able to see the tops of the stitches of the last Row from the front.).
If you are a right handed crocheter, the finishing tail of the piece will be on the left end of the last Row when it's folded or on the right end of that Row if you crochet left handed.
Pin the Chest part of the piece in place on the front of the Body, making sure it is symmetrically aligned with the Head. The first Row of it should sit snuggly up against where the front of the Body joins the Head.
With the front Pouch section folded upwards, pin the edges of the Pouch part to the edges of the bottom part of the Chest part - allowing the front of the Pouch to curve outwards - creating space for the Baby Kangaroo. Sew the whole piece into place.
Using the photographs as a guide, pin the pieces together before sewing, checking from all angles to make sure you’re happy with the positioning, then use the long yarn tails or a length of yarn with a yarn needle to stitch the pieces together.
To make sure the head is the right way up, check that the point where you changed colour at the end of Rnd 6 is sitting under the chin. Sew the Body to the underside of the Head, with the front of the neck sitting roughly in line with Rnd 17 of the Head.
Sew the Eyes in place on the upper side of the Head, sitting roughly in line with Rnd 12 of it, with a gap of around 3 stitches between the Eyes.
Taking the open end of one Ear, pinch it together, folding the bottom of the Ear, and secure with a few stitches. Sew the Inner Ear in place. Repeat for second Ear and then sew them onto the Head, roughly in line with Rnd 16 of it and with a gap of about 5 stitches between the two Ears.
Sew the Nose in place on top of the muzzle end of the Head.
The Chest & Pouch were made as one piece. You created a "hinge" by working in the back loops only of Row 22 of this piece, allowing the front of the Pouch to fold up over the bottom of the Chest part. You will find this "hinge" folds easier one way than the other - fold it the "easy" way.
To confirm the piece is the right way round before you attach it, check that the last Row of the piece - which forms the top edge of the Pouch front - is facing the same way round as in the photos above (you should be able to see the tops of the stitches of the last Row from the front.).
If you are a right handed crocheter, the finishing tail of the piece will be on the left end of the last Row when it's folded or on the right end of that Row if you crochet left handed.
Pin the Chest part of the piece in place on the front of the Body, making sure it is symmetrically aligned with the Head. The first Row of it should sit snuggly up against where the front of the Body joins the Head.
With the front Pouch section folded upwards, pin the edges of the Pouch part to the edges of the bottom part of the Chest part - allowing the front of the Pouch to curve outwards - creating space for the Baby Kangaroo. Sew the whole piece into place.
Big Kangaroo - back
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Big Kangaroo - base
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Sew the Thighs in place either side of the Pouch, their bottom edges should sit roughly in line with Rnd 5 of the Body. Sew the Feet in place, facing forwards, with their last 3 Rnds only stitched to the underside of the Thigh sections.
Sew the Tail in place, making sure it is curving upwards, centred between the back of the Thighs and with its bottom edge sitting roughly in line with Rnd 5 of the Body.
Sew the Tail in place, making sure it is curving upwards, centred between the back of the Thighs and with its bottom edge sitting roughly in line with Rnd 5 of the Body.
Big Kangaroo - face detail
Embroidered Details- Big Kangaroo
Using the photos as a guide, embroider the following:
With CC1, sew a single stitch highlight on each Eye and embroider three claws on each Arm and Foot.
With CC2, embroider the Big Kangaroo's mouth.
Using the photos as a guide, embroider the following:
With CC1, sew a single stitch highlight on each Eye and embroider three claws on each Arm and Foot.
With CC2, embroider the Big Kangaroo's mouth.
Baby Kangaroo
Baby Kangaroo
Baby Kangaroo: Head
Worked from the front of the head to the back. Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnds 2-3: Dc around.
Rnd 4: [2 dc in next st] 3 times, 3 dc. 9 sts
Rnd 5: Dc around.
Rnd 6: 2 dc, [2 dc in next st] 3 times, 4 dc. 12 sts
Rnd 7: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnds 8-10: Dc around.
Rnd 11: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnd 12: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Fasten off. Weave yarn tail through FLO of last 6 sts and pull to close hole. Weave in end.
Baby Kangaroo: Head
Worked from the front of the head to the back. Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnds 2-3: Dc around.
Rnd 4: [2 dc in next st] 3 times, 3 dc. 9 sts
Rnd 5: Dc around.
Rnd 6: 2 dc, [2 dc in next st] 3 times, 4 dc. 12 sts
Rnd 7: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnds 8-10: Dc around.
Rnd 11: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnd 12: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Fasten off. Weave yarn tail through FLO of last 6 sts and pull to close hole. Weave in end.
Baby Kangaroo: Body
Worked from the bottom up. Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: Dc around.
Rnd 5: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnd 6: Dc around.
Rnd 7: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnds 8-9: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail for sewing the Body to the Head once you've made all the parts.
Worked from the bottom up. Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: Dc around.
Rnd 5: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnd 6: Dc around.
Rnd 7: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnds 8-9: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail for sewing the Body to the Head once you've made all the parts.
Baby Kangaroo: Nose
Do not stuff.
Rnd 1: With CC2 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Nose to the Head once you have made all the parts.
Do not stuff.
Rnd 1: With CC2 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Nose to the Head once you have made all the parts.
Baby Kangaroo: Arms - make 2
Worked from the paw end up the arm. Stuff lightly up to and including Rnd 4, do not stuff the remaining Rnds.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 4 dc. 4 sts
Rnd 2: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] twice. 6 sts
Rnds 3-4: Dc around.
Rnd 5: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] twice. 4 sts
Rnd 6: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail for sewing the Arms to the Body once you've made all the parts.
Worked from the paw end up the arm. Stuff lightly up to and including Rnd 4, do not stuff the remaining Rnds.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 4 dc. 4 sts
Rnd 2: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] twice. 6 sts
Rnds 3-4: Dc around.
Rnd 5: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] twice. 4 sts
Rnd 6: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail for sewing the Arms to the Body once you've made all the parts.
Baby Kangaroo Ears: make 2
Do not stuff.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 4 dc. 4 sts
Rnd 2: [2 dc in next st, 1 dc] twice. 6 sts
Rnd 3: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Ears to the Head once you have made all the parts.
Do not stuff.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 4 dc. 4 sts
Rnd 2: [2 dc in next st, 1 dc] twice. 6 sts
Rnd 3: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Ears to the Head once you have made all the parts.
Baby Kangaroo: Making Up
Using the photographs as a guide, pin the pieces together before sewing, checking from all angles to make sure you’re happy with the positioning, then use the long yarn tails or a length of yarn with a yarn needle to stitch the pieces together.
Sew the Body to the Head - the front edge of the neck should sit roughly in line with Rnd 6 of the Head.
Sew the Arms in place either side of the Body so that they sit close to where the Body joins the Head.
Sew the Ears in place, with their front edge sitting roughly in line with Rnd 7 of the Head, and with a gap of roughly 3 stitches between the two Ears.
Sew the Nose in place over the front point of the Head.
Using the photographs as a guide, pin the pieces together before sewing, checking from all angles to make sure you’re happy with the positioning, then use the long yarn tails or a length of yarn with a yarn needle to stitch the pieces together.
Sew the Body to the Head - the front edge of the neck should sit roughly in line with Rnd 6 of the Head.
Sew the Arms in place either side of the Body so that they sit close to where the Body joins the Head.
Sew the Ears in place, with their front edge sitting roughly in line with Rnd 7 of the Head, and with a gap of roughly 3 stitches between the two Ears.
Sew the Nose in place over the front point of the Head.
Baby Kangaroo - Embroidered Details
Using the photos as a guide, embroider the following:
With CC2, embroider two eyes on the Baby Kangaroo's Head leaving a gap of roughly 2 stitches between the two.
With CC1, sew a single stitch highlight on each Eye.
All done!
Using the photos as a guide, embroider the following:
With CC2, embroider two eyes on the Baby Kangaroo's Head leaving a gap of roughly 2 stitches between the two.
With CC1, sew a single stitch highlight on each Eye.
All done!
Terms of Use
I am happy for you to donate, gift or sell any of the my crochet chums you make if you are an individual crafter - please credit mycrochetchums.com as the designer.
If you do wish to sell your my crochet chums, it is your responsibility to ensure that the finished item complies with the relevant toy legislation in your country.
Please be sure to use toy grade stuffing and do not add buttons, bells, ribbons etc that could be a danger to small children.
The patterns are copyright protected and are not for commercial use. They cannot be sold, transmitted, distributed or reproduced in any form or by any means. I’ve worked hard to create the designs - please don’t sell my patterns - it’s just plain mean!
I am happy for you to donate, gift or sell any of the my crochet chums you make if you are an individual crafter - please credit mycrochetchums.com as the designer.
If you do wish to sell your my crochet chums, it is your responsibility to ensure that the finished item complies with the relevant toy legislation in your country.
Please be sure to use toy grade stuffing and do not add buttons, bells, ribbons etc that could be a danger to small children.
The patterns are copyright protected and are not for commercial use. They cannot be sold, transmitted, distributed or reproduced in any form or by any means. I’ve worked hard to create the designs - please don’t sell my patterns - it’s just plain mean!
About mycrochetchums
I started mycrochetchums at the end of 2020 to give me something to focus on during lockdown and to make creative use of a box of Amigurumi Yarn that was an impulse purchase I was feeling guilty about!
I’m loving creating these cute characters and sharpening my tech skills in the process as I wrangle with managing a website and social media.
Check out the mycrochetchums Facebook page - drop me a message there if you have any feedback about the pattern or would like to share a picture of the end result.
You can also find me on Instagram @mycrochetchums.
If you have any questions about any of my patterns (or any other ami you may be working on) please email me at: [email protected] - I’ll do my best to help!
Happy Crocheting!
Pia x
©2022PIA SIMPSON/ MYCROCHETCHUMS
I started mycrochetchums at the end of 2020 to give me something to focus on during lockdown and to make creative use of a box of Amigurumi Yarn that was an impulse purchase I was feeling guilty about!
I’m loving creating these cute characters and sharpening my tech skills in the process as I wrangle with managing a website and social media.
Check out the mycrochetchums Facebook page - drop me a message there if you have any feedback about the pattern or would like to share a picture of the end result.
You can also find me on Instagram @mycrochetchums.
If you have any questions about any of my patterns (or any other ami you may be working on) please email me at: [email protected] - I’ll do my best to help!
Happy Crocheting!
Pia x
©2022PIA SIMPSON/ MYCROCHETCHUMS
