Free Amigurumi Rhino Crochet Pattern
No 53 - Rhino
Scroll down for pattern and more photos!
Yarn
Scheepjes Catona 4ply, 100% Cotton. 125m per 50g
MC: 45g approx of Chrystaline (385) for Body, Head, Ears, Arms, Legs and Tail.
CC1: 15g approx of Bridal White (105) for Horns, Belly Patch, Nails and Eye Highlight.
CC2: 5g approx of Jade (514) for Arms, Legs and Little Heart.
CC3: Small amount of Jet Black (110) forEyes and Mouth.
A cotton yarn works well for Ami as it gives good stitch definition and creates a firm structure so body parts hold their shape well. Catona is a relatively thick 4 ply (US: Sport) - you can substitute a DK Cotton (US: DK/Light Worsted) with a similar amount of metres per 50g.
Scheepjes Catona 4ply, 100% Cotton. 125m per 50g
MC: 45g approx of Chrystaline (385) for Body, Head, Ears, Arms, Legs and Tail.
CC1: 15g approx of Bridal White (105) for Horns, Belly Patch, Nails and Eye Highlight.
CC2: 5g approx of Jade (514) for Arms, Legs and Little Heart.
CC3: Small amount of Jet Black (110) forEyes and Mouth.
A cotton yarn works well for Ami as it gives good stitch definition and creates a firm structure so body parts hold their shape well. Catona is a relatively thick 4 ply (US: Sport) - you can substitute a DK Cotton (US: DK/Light Worsted) with a similar amount of metres per 50g.
Hook
3mm
3mm
Other Supplies
Yarn needle, toy stuffing, stitch marker/waste yarn, pins and scissors.
Yarn needle, toy stuffing, stitch marker/waste yarn, pins and scissors.
Tension
24 sts x 27 rows = 10cm measured over dc using 3mm hook.
Tension is not critical for this project but stitches should be tight enough to avoid stuffing showing through.
24 sts x 27 rows = 10cm measured over dc using 3mm hook.
Tension is not critical for this project but stitches should be tight enough to avoid stuffing showing through.
Size
20 cm (8in) approx from head to toe.
20 cm (8in) approx from head to toe.
Pattern Notes
Unless otherwise specified this pattern is worked in the amigurumi style, in a continuous spiral without slip stitching or turning chains.
Use a stitch marker or waste yarn to keep track of the first stitch of each round.
If you do not want to make a Magic Ring you can start each piece by making a chain of 2 and then work the first round into the second chain from the hook.
If you would like to start with a Magic Ring but don’t know how, you can find a Photo Tutorial at: https://www.mycrochetchums.com/magic-ring-photo-tutorial.html
The Rhino is made of multiple separate pieces sewn together. Unless otherwise stated, finish each piece by pulling the yarn through the last loop and leave a long tail for sewing. Any loose tails at the end can be easily woven in.
Unless otherwise specified this pattern is worked in the amigurumi style, in a continuous spiral without slip stitching or turning chains.
Use a stitch marker or waste yarn to keep track of the first stitch of each round.
If you do not want to make a Magic Ring you can start each piece by making a chain of 2 and then work the first round into the second chain from the hook.
If you would like to start with a Magic Ring but don’t know how, you can find a Photo Tutorial at: https://www.mycrochetchums.com/magic-ring-photo-tutorial.html
The Rhino is made of multiple separate pieces sewn together. Unless otherwise stated, finish each piece by pulling the yarn through the last loop and leave a long tail for sewing. Any loose tails at the end can be easily woven in.
UK Crochet Terms - Abbreviations
This pattern is written using UK Crochet Terms - they are NOT the same as US ones - please familiarise yourself with the UK terms to avoid your character’s shape distorting!
The “dc” abbreviation used in this pattern refers to UK double crochet. The equivalent stitch in US terms is single crochet - if you are used to US patterns you need to work single crochet everywhere this pattern says “dc”. If you work US dc (equivalent to UK Treble) the finished item will be elongated and the stuffing will show through.
This pattern also uses UK htr (half treble), and UK tr (treble) - the equivalent stitches in US terms are US hdc (half double) and US dc (double).
If you are used to working in US Crochet Terms you can find a conversion chart HERE.
If you are unfamiliar with any of the terms used in this pattern, you can find a chart of the UK Crochet terms used HERE.
Sign up to the Mailing List at the top of the page to access free printable PDF versions of this pattern in UK or US terms.
This pattern is written using UK Crochet Terms - they are NOT the same as US ones - please familiarise yourself with the UK terms to avoid your character’s shape distorting!
The “dc” abbreviation used in this pattern refers to UK double crochet. The equivalent stitch in US terms is single crochet - if you are used to US patterns you need to work single crochet everywhere this pattern says “dc”. If you work US dc (equivalent to UK Treble) the finished item will be elongated and the stuffing will show through.
This pattern also uses UK htr (half treble), and UK tr (treble) - the equivalent stitches in US terms are US hdc (half double) and US dc (double).
If you are used to working in US Crochet Terms you can find a conversion chart HERE.
If you are unfamiliar with any of the terms used in this pattern, you can find a chart of the UK Crochet terms used HERE.
Sign up to the Mailing List at the top of the page to access free printable PDF versions of this pattern in UK or US terms.
Increasing and decreasing
You may use either standard increases and decreases in this pattern or, for a much neater finish, invisible ones. FLO = Front loop only.
Decrease - "dc2tog" in pattern.
Invisible decrease: Insert hook in FLO of the two stitches to be decreased, yoh, pull through both front loops, yoh, draw through two loops on hook.
Increase - "2 dc in next st" in pattern.
Invisible Increase: Work 1 dc in FLO of next st and 1 dc in both loops of same st.
You may use either standard increases and decreases in this pattern or, for a much neater finish, invisible ones. FLO = Front loop only.
Decrease - "dc2tog" in pattern.
Invisible decrease: Insert hook in FLO of the two stitches to be decreased, yoh, pull through both front loops, yoh, draw through two loops on hook.
Increase - "2 dc in next st" in pattern.
Invisible Increase: Work 1 dc in FLO of next st and 1 dc in both loops of same st.
Rhino - Right Side
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Rhino - Front
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Head
Worked from front of Head to back. Stuff as you go. The increases in Rnds 15 and 17 create the upwards slope on the top of the Head where the eyes will sit - take note of the shape so that you know which is the top of the Head when you come to attach the Body later.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnds 6-12: Dc around.
Rnd 13: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 14: Dc around.
Rnd 15: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times, 12 dc. 30 sts
Rnd 16: Dc around.
Rnd 17: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times, 12 dc. 36 sts
Rnd 18: Dc around.
Rnd 19: [5 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 42 sts
Rnds 20-23: Dc around.
Rnd 24: [5 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnd 25: Dc around.
Rnd 26: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 27: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 28: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 29: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnd 30: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Fasten off. Weave yarn tail through FLO of last 6 sts and pull to close hole. Weave in end.
Worked from front of Head to back. Stuff as you go. The increases in Rnds 15 and 17 create the upwards slope on the top of the Head where the eyes will sit - take note of the shape so that you know which is the top of the Head when you come to attach the Body later.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnds 6-12: Dc around.
Rnd 13: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 14: Dc around.
Rnd 15: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times, 12 dc. 30 sts
Rnd 16: Dc around.
Rnd 17: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times, 12 dc. 36 sts
Rnd 18: Dc around.
Rnd 19: [5 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 42 sts
Rnds 20-23: Dc around.
Rnd 24: [5 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnd 25: Dc around.
Rnd 26: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 27: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 28: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 29: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnd 30: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Fasten off. Weave yarn tail through FLO of last 6 sts and pull to close hole. Weave in end.
Body
Worked from the bottom of the Body up. Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 6: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnd 7: Dc around.
Rnd 8: [5 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 42 sts
Rnd 9: Dc around.
Rnd 10: [6 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 48 sts
Rnds 11-12: Dc around.
Rnd 13: [6 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 42 sts
Rnds 14-15: Dc around.
Rnd 16: [5 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnds 17-18: Dc around.
Rnd 19: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnds 20-21: Dc around.
Rnd 22: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnds 23-24: Dc around.
Rnd 25: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 26: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Body to the Head once you have made all the parts.
Worked from the bottom of the Body up. Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 6: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnd 7: Dc around.
Rnd 8: [5 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 42 sts
Rnd 9: Dc around.
Rnd 10: [6 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 48 sts
Rnds 11-12: Dc around.
Rnd 13: [6 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 42 sts
Rnds 14-15: Dc around.
Rnd 16: [5 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnds 17-18: Dc around.
Rnd 19: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnds 20-21: Dc around.
Rnd 22: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnds 23-24: Dc around.
Rnd 25: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 26: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Body to the Head once you have made all the parts.
Arms - make 2
Worked from the bottom of the Arm up. Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With CC2 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Change to MC.
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: Working in BLO for whole round, dc around.
Rnds 5-9: Dc around.
Rnd 10: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 15 sts
Rnds 11-13: Dc around.
Rnd 14: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 12 sts
Rnds 15-16: Dc around.
Rnd 17: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnd 18: Dc around.
Rnd 19: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 6 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Arms to the Body once you have made all the parts.
Worked from the bottom of the Arm up. Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With CC2 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Change to MC.
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: Working in BLO for whole round, dc around.
Rnds 5-9: Dc around.
Rnd 10: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 15 sts
Rnds 11-13: Dc around.
Rnd 14: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 12 sts
Rnds 15-16: Dc around.
Rnd 17: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnd 18: Dc around.
Rnd 19: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 6 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Arms to the Body once you have made all the parts.
Legs- make 2
Worked from the bottom of the Leg up. Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With CC2 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Change to MC.
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: Working in BLO for whole round, dc around.
Rnds 6-7: Dc around.
Rnd 8: 4 dc, [1 dc2tog, 1 dc] 5 times, 1 dc2tog, 3 dc. 18 sts
Rnd 9: Dc around.
Rnd 10: 6 dc, [1 dc2tog, 1 dc] twice, 1 dc2tog, 4 dc. 15 sts
Rnds 11-14: Dc around.
Rnd 15: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 12 sts
Rnds 16-17: Dc around.
Rnd 18: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnd 19: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Legs to the Body once you have made all the parts.
Worked from the bottom of the Leg up. Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With CC2 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Change to MC.
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: Working in BLO for whole round, dc around.
Rnds 6-7: Dc around.
Rnd 8: 4 dc, [1 dc2tog, 1 dc] 5 times, 1 dc2tog, 3 dc. 18 sts
Rnd 9: Dc around.
Rnd 10: 6 dc, [1 dc2tog, 1 dc] twice, 1 dc2tog, 4 dc. 15 sts
Rnds 11-14: Dc around.
Rnd 15: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 12 sts
Rnds 16-17: Dc around.
Rnd 18: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnd 19: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Legs to the Body once you have made all the parts.
Eyes - make 2
Rnd 1: With CC3 and working into a magic ring, 4 dc, sl st in first dc to join. 4 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Eyes to the Head once you have made all the parts.
Rnd 1: With CC3 and working into a magic ring, 4 dc, sl st in first dc to join. 4 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Eyes to the Head once you have made all the parts.
Tail
Worked from the tip of the Tail up. Do not stuff.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 4 dc. 4 sts
Rnd 2: [1dc, 2 dc in next st] twice. 6 sts
Rnds 3-5: Dc around.
Rnd 6: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] twice. 8 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Tail to the Body once you have made all the parts.
Worked from the tip of the Tail up. Do not stuff.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 4 dc. 4 sts
Rnd 2: [1dc, 2 dc in next st] twice. 6 sts
Rnds 3-5: Dc around.
Rnd 6: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] twice. 8 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Tail to the Body once you have made all the parts.
Large Horn
Worked from top of Horn down. Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With CC1 and working into a magic ring, 4 dc. 4 sts
Rnd 2: [2 dc in next st] twice, 2 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 3: Dc around.
Rnd 4: 1 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice, 3 dc. 8 sts
Rnd 5: Dc around.
Rnd 6: 2 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice, 4 dc. 10 sts
Rnd 7: Dc around.
Rnd 8: 3 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice, 5 dc. 12 sts
Rnd 9: Dc around.
Rnd 10: 4 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice, 6 dc. 14 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Large Horn to the Head once you have made all the parts.
Small Horn
Worked from the top of the Horn down. Stuff as you go.
Rnds 1-6: As pattern for Large Horn above.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Small Horn to the Head once you have made all the parts.
Worked from top of Horn down. Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With CC1 and working into a magic ring, 4 dc. 4 sts
Rnd 2: [2 dc in next st] twice, 2 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 3: Dc around.
Rnd 4: 1 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice, 3 dc. 8 sts
Rnd 5: Dc around.
Rnd 6: 2 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice, 4 dc. 10 sts
Rnd 7: Dc around.
Rnd 8: 3 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice, 5 dc. 12 sts
Rnd 9: Dc around.
Rnd 10: 4 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice, 6 dc. 14 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Large Horn to the Head once you have made all the parts.
Small Horn
Worked from the top of the Horn down. Stuff as you go.
Rnds 1-6: As pattern for Large Horn above.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Small Horn to the Head once you have made all the parts.
Ears - make 2
Worked from top of Ear down. Do not stuff.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnds 3-4: Dc around.
Rnd 5: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Ears to the Head once you have made all the parts.
Worked from top of Ear down. Do not stuff.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnds 3-4: Dc around.
Rnd 5: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Ears to the Head once you have made all the parts.
Heart Shaped Belly Patch
Slip stitches and chains are not included in the stitch count.
Rnd 1: With CC1 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: 1 sl st, [1 dc, 1 htr, 1 tr] in next st, 3 tr in next st, [1 tr, 1 htr] in next st, [1 htr, 1 dc] in next st, 3 dc, [1 dc, 1 htr] in next st, 1 tr, [1 htr, 1 dc] in next st, 3 dc, [1 dc 1 htr] in next st, [1 htr, 1 tr] in next st, 3 tr in next st, [1 tr, 1 htr, 1 dc] in next st, sl st in first st to join. 31 sts
Rnd 5: 2 dc, [2 dc in next st] 4 times, 9 dc, [1 dc, 1 ch, 1 dc] in next st, 9 dc, [2 dc in next st] 4 times, 1 dc, 1 sl st. 39 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Eye to the Head once you have made all the parts.
Small Heart
The chains and slip stitch are not included in the stitch count.
Rnd 1: With CC2, and working into a magic ring, 1 htr, 1 tr, 1 htr, 2 dc, 2 ch, 2 dc, 1 htr, 1 tr, 1 htr, 1 sl st into centre of magic ring. 10 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Heart to the Body once you've made all the parts.
Slip stitches and chains are not included in the stitch count.
Rnd 1: With CC1 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: 1 sl st, [1 dc, 1 htr, 1 tr] in next st, 3 tr in next st, [1 tr, 1 htr] in next st, [1 htr, 1 dc] in next st, 3 dc, [1 dc, 1 htr] in next st, 1 tr, [1 htr, 1 dc] in next st, 3 dc, [1 dc 1 htr] in next st, [1 htr, 1 tr] in next st, 3 tr in next st, [1 tr, 1 htr, 1 dc] in next st, sl st in first st to join. 31 sts
Rnd 5: 2 dc, [2 dc in next st] 4 times, 9 dc, [1 dc, 1 ch, 1 dc] in next st, 9 dc, [2 dc in next st] 4 times, 1 dc, 1 sl st. 39 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Eye to the Head once you have made all the parts.
Small Heart
The chains and slip stitch are not included in the stitch count.
Rnd 1: With CC2, and working into a magic ring, 1 htr, 1 tr, 1 htr, 2 dc, 2 ch, 2 dc, 1 htr, 1 tr, 1 htr, 1 sl st into centre of magic ring. 10 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Heart to the Body once you've made all the parts.
Rhino - Back
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Rhino - Base
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Making Up
Using the photographs as a guide, pin the pieces together before sewing, checking from all angles to make sure you’re happy with the positioning, then use the long yarn tails or a length of yarn with a yarn needle to stitch the pieces together.
Looking at the Head from its front end, the raised slope created by the increases in Rnds 15 and 17 should be at the top. sew the Body to the bottom side of the Head, with the front of the neck sitting roughly in line with Rnd 16 of the Head.
Insert a row of pins down the centre line of the Body in relation to the Head - this will help you to position the limbs evenly.
Sew the Arms in place either side of the Body, attaching them approx 3 rounds down from where the Body joins the Head.
Sew the Legs in place on the base of the Body, set forward slightly so the Rhino can sit on his bottom, making sure the feet are facing forwards.
Ensuring that it's centred on the Head, sew the Large Horn onto the Head with its front edge sitting roughly in line with Round 4 of the Head. Sew the Small Horn in place directly behind the large one.
Using the photographs as a guide, pin the pieces together before sewing, checking from all angles to make sure you’re happy with the positioning, then use the long yarn tails or a length of yarn with a yarn needle to stitch the pieces together.
Looking at the Head from its front end, the raised slope created by the increases in Rnds 15 and 17 should be at the top. sew the Body to the bottom side of the Head, with the front of the neck sitting roughly in line with Rnd 16 of the Head.
Insert a row of pins down the centre line of the Body in relation to the Head - this will help you to position the limbs evenly.
Sew the Arms in place either side of the Body, attaching them approx 3 rounds down from where the Body joins the Head.
Sew the Legs in place on the base of the Body, set forward slightly so the Rhino can sit on his bottom, making sure the feet are facing forwards.
Ensuring that it's centred on the Head, sew the Large Horn onto the Head with its front edge sitting roughly in line with Round 4 of the Head. Sew the Small Horn in place directly behind the large one.
Rhino - Face Detail
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Rhino - Belly Detail
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Sew the Eyes in place on the sloped part of the Head, roughly in line with Rnd 17 and spaced about 6 stitches apart.
Sew the Ears in place roughly 3 rounds behind the Eyes, spaced about 9 stitches apart.
Sew the Heart Shaped Belly Patch onto the front of the Body, the bottom point of it should sit roughly in line with Rnd 7 of the Body.
Sew the Little Heart on top of the Belly Patch, sitting off centre and up to the right as you look at it.
Sew the Tail, centrally aligned, onto the back of the Body, attaching it roughly in line with Rnd 10 of the Body. Once you've attached the top of the Tail, stitch part way down either side of it to hold it flat against the Body.
Sew the Ears in place roughly 3 rounds behind the Eyes, spaced about 9 stitches apart.
Sew the Heart Shaped Belly Patch onto the front of the Body, the bottom point of it should sit roughly in line with Rnd 7 of the Body.
Sew the Little Heart on top of the Belly Patch, sitting off centre and up to the right as you look at it.
Sew the Tail, centrally aligned, onto the back of the Body, attaching it roughly in line with Rnd 10 of the Body. Once you've attached the top of the Tail, stitch part way down either side of it to hold it flat against the Body.
Rhino - Toe Detail
Embroidered Details
Using the photos as a guide, embroider the following:
With CC1, sew a single stitch highlight on each Eye and embroider three "nails" on each Arm and Leg.
With CC3, embroider the Rhino's smile.
All done!
Using the photos as a guide, embroider the following:
With CC1, sew a single stitch highlight on each Eye and embroider three "nails" on each Arm and Leg.
With CC3, embroider the Rhino's smile.
All done!
Terms of Use
I am happy for you to donate, gift or sell any of the my crochet chums you make if you are an individual crafter - please credit mycrochetchums.com as the designer.
If you do wish to sell your my crochet chums, it is your responsibility to ensure that the finished item complies with the relevant toy legislation in your country.
Please be sure to use toy grade stuffing and do not add buttons, bells, ribbons etc that could be a danger to small children.
The patterns are copyright protected and are not for commercial use. They cannot be sold, transmitted, distributed or reproduced in any form or by any means. I’ve worked hard to create the designs - please don’t sell my patterns - it’s just plain mean!
I am happy for you to donate, gift or sell any of the my crochet chums you make if you are an individual crafter - please credit mycrochetchums.com as the designer.
If you do wish to sell your my crochet chums, it is your responsibility to ensure that the finished item complies with the relevant toy legislation in your country.
Please be sure to use toy grade stuffing and do not add buttons, bells, ribbons etc that could be a danger to small children.
The patterns are copyright protected and are not for commercial use. They cannot be sold, transmitted, distributed or reproduced in any form or by any means. I’ve worked hard to create the designs - please don’t sell my patterns - it’s just plain mean!
About mycrochetchums
I started mycrochetchums at the end of 2020 to give me something to focus on during lockdown and to make creative use of a box of Amigurumi Yarn that was an impulse purchase I was feeling guilty about!
I’m loving creating these cute characters and sharpening my tech skills in the process as I wrangle with managing a website and social media.
Check out the mycrochetchums Facebook page - drop me a message there if you have any feedback about the pattern or would like to share a picture of the end result.
You can also find me on Instagram @mycrochetchums.
If you have any questions about any of my patterns (or any other ami you may be working on) please email me at: [email protected] - I’ll do my best to help!
Happy Crocheting!
Pia x
©2022PIA SIMPSON/ MYCROCHETCHUMS
I started mycrochetchums at the end of 2020 to give me something to focus on during lockdown and to make creative use of a box of Amigurumi Yarn that was an impulse purchase I was feeling guilty about!
I’m loving creating these cute characters and sharpening my tech skills in the process as I wrangle with managing a website and social media.
Check out the mycrochetchums Facebook page - drop me a message there if you have any feedback about the pattern or would like to share a picture of the end result.
You can also find me on Instagram @mycrochetchums.
If you have any questions about any of my patterns (or any other ami you may be working on) please email me at: [email protected] - I’ll do my best to help!
Happy Crocheting!
Pia x
©2022PIA SIMPSON/ MYCROCHETCHUMS
