#stashbusterchums - No 48 - Puppy Love
No 48 - Puppy Love
Scroll down for pattern and more photos!
Yarn
Scheepjes Catona 4ply, 100% Cotton. 125m per 50g
MC: 35g approx of Ginger Gold (383) for Body, Head, Arms, Legs, Tail and Ear.
CC1: 15g approx of Old Lace (130) for Head, Paws, Tail and Eye Highlights.
CC2: 10g approx of Black Coffee (162) for Arms, Legs, Tail, Nose, Ear, Mouth and Claw detail.
CC3: 15 g approx of Freesia (519) for heart.
CC4: Small amount of Jet Black (110) for Eyes.
A cotton yarn works well for Ami as it gives good stitch definition and creates a firm structure so body parts hold their shape well. Catona is a relatively thick 4 ply (US: Sport) - you can substitute a DK Cotton (US: DK/Light Worsted) with a similar amount of metres per 50g.
Scheepjes Catona 4ply, 100% Cotton. 125m per 50g
MC: 35g approx of Ginger Gold (383) for Body, Head, Arms, Legs, Tail and Ear.
CC1: 15g approx of Old Lace (130) for Head, Paws, Tail and Eye Highlights.
CC2: 10g approx of Black Coffee (162) for Arms, Legs, Tail, Nose, Ear, Mouth and Claw detail.
CC3: 15 g approx of Freesia (519) for heart.
CC4: Small amount of Jet Black (110) for Eyes.
A cotton yarn works well for Ami as it gives good stitch definition and creates a firm structure so body parts hold their shape well. Catona is a relatively thick 4 ply (US: Sport) - you can substitute a DK Cotton (US: DK/Light Worsted) with a similar amount of metres per 50g.
Hook
3 mm
3 mm
Tension
24 sts x 27 rows = 10cm measured over dc using 3mm hook.
Tension is not critical for this project but stitches should be tight enough to avoid stuffing showing through.
24 sts x 27 rows = 10cm measured over dc using 3mm hook.
Tension is not critical for this project but stitches should be tight enough to avoid stuffing showing through.
Other Supplies
Yarn needle, toy stuffing, stitch marker/waste yarn, scissors.
Yarn needle, toy stuffing, stitch marker/waste yarn, scissors.
Size
Approx 19 cm (7.5 in) tall.
Approx 19 cm (7.5 in) tall.
Pattern Notes
Unless otherwise specified this pattern is worked in the amigurumi style, in a continuous spiral without slip stitching or turning chains.
Use a stitch marker or waste yarn to keep track of the first stitch of each round.
If you do not want to make a Magic Ring you can start each piece by making a chain of 2 and then work the first round into the second chain from the hook.
If you would like to start with a Magic Ring but don’t know how, you can find a Photo Tutorial HERE.
The Puppy is made of multiple separate pieces sewn together. Unless otherwise stated, finish each piece by pulling the yarn through the last loop and leave a long tail for sewing. Any loose tails at the end can be easily woven in.
Unless otherwise specified this pattern is worked in the amigurumi style, in a continuous spiral without slip stitching or turning chains.
Use a stitch marker or waste yarn to keep track of the first stitch of each round.
If you do not want to make a Magic Ring you can start each piece by making a chain of 2 and then work the first round into the second chain from the hook.
If you would like to start with a Magic Ring but don’t know how, you can find a Photo Tutorial HERE.
The Puppy is made of multiple separate pieces sewn together. Unless otherwise stated, finish each piece by pulling the yarn through the last loop and leave a long tail for sewing. Any loose tails at the end can be easily woven in.
UK Crochet Terms - Abbreviations
This pattern is written using UK Crochet Terms - they are NOT the same as US ones - please familiarise yourself with the UK terms to avoid your character’s shape distorting!
The “dc” abbreviation used in this pattern refers to UK double crochet. The equivalent stitch in US terms is single crochet - if you are used to US patterns you need to work single crochet everywhere this pattern says “dc”. If you work US dc (equivalent to UK Treble) the finished item will be elongated and the stuffing will show through.
If you are used to working in US Crochet Terms you can find a conversion chart HERE.
If you are unfamiliar with any of the terms used in this pattern, you can find a chart of the UK Crochet terms used HERE.
This pattern is written using UK Crochet Terms - they are NOT the same as US ones - please familiarise yourself with the UK terms to avoid your character’s shape distorting!
The “dc” abbreviation used in this pattern refers to UK double crochet. The equivalent stitch in US terms is single crochet - if you are used to US patterns you need to work single crochet everywhere this pattern says “dc”. If you work US dc (equivalent to UK Treble) the finished item will be elongated and the stuffing will show through.
If you are used to working in US Crochet Terms you can find a conversion chart HERE.
If you are unfamiliar with any of the terms used in this pattern, you can find a chart of the UK Crochet terms used HERE.
Increasing and decreasing
You may use either standard increases and decreases in this pattern or, for a much neater finish, invisible ones. FLO = Front loop only.
Decrease - "dc2tog" in pattern.
Invisible decrease: Insert hook in FLO of the two stitches to be decreased, yrh, pull through both front loops, yrh, draw through two loops on hook.
Increase - "2 dc in next st" in pattern.
Invisible Increase: Work 1 dc in FLO of next st and 1 dc in both loops of same st.
You may use either standard increases and decreases in this pattern or, for a much neater finish, invisible ones. FLO = Front loop only.
Decrease - "dc2tog" in pattern.
Invisible decrease: Insert hook in FLO of the two stitches to be decreased, yrh, pull through both front loops, yrh, draw through two loops on hook.
Increase - "2 dc in next st" in pattern.
Invisible Increase: Work 1 dc in FLO of next st and 1 dc in both loops of same st.
Puppy - Right
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Puppy - Left
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Body
Worked from the bottom upwards. Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 6: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnds 7-8: Dc around.
Rnd 9: [5 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 42 sts
Rnd 10: Dc around.
Rnd 11: [5 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnd 12: Dc around.
Rnd 13: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnds 14-17: Dc around.
Rnd 18: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnds 19-23: Dc around.
Rnd 24: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 25: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Body to the Head once you've made all the parts.
Worked from the bottom upwards. Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 6: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnds 7-8: Dc around.
Rnd 9: [5 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 42 sts
Rnd 10: Dc around.
Rnd 11: [5 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnd 12: Dc around.
Rnd 13: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnds 14-17: Dc around.
Rnd 18: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnds 19-23: Dc around.
Rnd 24: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 25: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Body to the Head once you've made all the parts.
Head
Worked from the front back. Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With CC1 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnds 5-11: Dc around.
Change to MC.
Rnd 12: Dc around.
Rnd 13: 7 dc, [2 dc in next st, 1 dc] 5 times, 2 dc in next st, 6 dc. 30 sts
Rnd 14: 8 dc, [2 dc in next st, 2 dc] 5 times, 2 dc in next st, 6 dc. 36 sts
Rnds 15-16: Dc around.
Rnd 17: 10 dc, [2 dc in next st, 3 dc] 5 times, 2 dc in next st, 5 dc. 42 sts
Rnds 18-20: Dc around.
Rnd 21: [5 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnd 22: Dc around.
Rnd 23: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 24: Dc around.
Rnd 25: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 26: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 27: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnd 28: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Fasten off. Weave yarn tail through FLO of last 6 sts and pull to close hole. Weave in end.
Worked from the front back. Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With CC1 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnds 5-11: Dc around.
Change to MC.
Rnd 12: Dc around.
Rnd 13: 7 dc, [2 dc in next st, 1 dc] 5 times, 2 dc in next st, 6 dc. 30 sts
Rnd 14: 8 dc, [2 dc in next st, 2 dc] 5 times, 2 dc in next st, 6 dc. 36 sts
Rnds 15-16: Dc around.
Rnd 17: 10 dc, [2 dc in next st, 3 dc] 5 times, 2 dc in next st, 5 dc. 42 sts
Rnds 18-20: Dc around.
Rnd 21: [5 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnd 22: Dc around.
Rnd 23: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 24: Dc around.
Rnd 25: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 26: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 27: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnd 28: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Fasten off. Weave yarn tail through FLO of last 6 sts and pull to close hole. Weave in end.
Ears - make 2
Make one in MC and one in CC2. Do not stuff.
Rnd 1: With chosen colour and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: Dc around.
Rnd 6: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnds 7-8: Dc around.
Rnd 9: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnds 10-11: Dc around.
Rnd 12: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnds 13-17: Dc around.
Rnd 18: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnds 19-20: Dc around.
Rnd 21: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Body to the Head once you've made all the parts.
Make one in MC and one in CC2. Do not stuff.
Rnd 1: With chosen colour and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: Dc around.
Rnd 6: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnds 7-8: Dc around.
Rnd 9: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnds 10-11: Dc around.
Rnd 12: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnds 13-17: Dc around.
Rnd 18: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnds 19-20: Dc around.
Rnd 21: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Body to the Head once you've made all the parts.
Nose
Do not stuff.
Rnd 1: With CC2 and working into a Magic Ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: [2 dc in next st, 2 dc] twice. 8 sts
Rnd 3: [2 dc in next st, 3 dc] twice. 10 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc in next st, 4 dc] twice. 12 sts
Rnd 5: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Nose to the Head once you've made all the parts. Flatten the Nose.
Do not stuff.
Rnd 1: With CC2 and working into a Magic Ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: [2 dc in next st, 2 dc] twice. 8 sts
Rnd 3: [2 dc in next st, 3 dc] twice. 10 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc in next st, 4 dc] twice. 12 sts
Rnd 5: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Nose to the Head once you've made all the parts. Flatten the Nose.
Eyes - make 2
Rnd 1: With CC4 and working into a Magic Ring, 6 dc, sl st in beg dc to join. 6 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Eyes to the Head once you've made all the parts.
Rnd 1: With CC4 and working into a Magic Ring, 6 dc, sl st in beg dc to join. 6 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Eyes to the Head once you've made all the parts.
Arms - make 2
Worked from the end of the paw upwards. Stuff as you go.
With CC1, chain 6.
Rnd 1: Starting in the second ch from hook, 4 dc, 3 dc in next st, rotating as you go, 3 dc, 2 dc in last st. 12 sts
Rnds 2-5: Dc around.
Rnd 6: [1 dc2tog, 4 dc] twice. 10 sts
Rnd 7: Dc around.
Change to CC2.
Rnd 8: Dc around.
Rnd 9: [1 dc2tog, 3 dc] twice. 8 sts
Change to MC.
Rnds 10-15: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Arms to the Body once you've made all the parts.
Worked from the end of the paw upwards. Stuff as you go.
With CC1, chain 6.
Rnd 1: Starting in the second ch from hook, 4 dc, 3 dc in next st, rotating as you go, 3 dc, 2 dc in last st. 12 sts
Rnds 2-5: Dc around.
Rnd 6: [1 dc2tog, 4 dc] twice. 10 sts
Rnd 7: Dc around.
Change to CC2.
Rnd 8: Dc around.
Rnd 9: [1 dc2tog, 3 dc] twice. 8 sts
Change to MC.
Rnds 10-15: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Arms to the Body once you've made all the parts.
Legs - make 2
Worked from the bottom of the paw upwards. Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With CC1 and working into a Magic Ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [2 dc in next st, 2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc in next st, 4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: Dc around.
Rnd 6: 6 dc, 2 dc2tog, 4 dc, 2 dc2tog, 6 dc. 20 sts
Rnd 7: 5 dc, 2 dc2tog, 2 dc, 2 dc2tog, 5 dc. 16 sts
Rnd 8: 4 dc, 4 dc2tog, 4 dc. 12 sts
Rnds 9-10: Dc around.
Change to CC2.
Rnds 11-12: Dc around.
Rnd 13: 1 dc2tog, 10 dc. 11 sts
Change to MC.
Rnds 14-15: Dc around.
Rnd 16: 1 dc2tog, 9 dc. 10 sts
Rnd 17: Dc around.
Rnd 18: [1 dc2tog, 3 dc] twice. 8 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew Legs to Body once you've made all the parts.
Worked from the bottom of the paw upwards. Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With CC1 and working into a Magic Ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [2 dc in next st, 2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc in next st, 4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: Dc around.
Rnd 6: 6 dc, 2 dc2tog, 4 dc, 2 dc2tog, 6 dc. 20 sts
Rnd 7: 5 dc, 2 dc2tog, 2 dc, 2 dc2tog, 5 dc. 16 sts
Rnd 8: 4 dc, 4 dc2tog, 4 dc. 12 sts
Rnds 9-10: Dc around.
Change to CC2.
Rnds 11-12: Dc around.
Rnd 13: 1 dc2tog, 10 dc. 11 sts
Change to MC.
Rnds 14-15: Dc around.
Rnd 16: 1 dc2tog, 9 dc. 10 sts
Rnd 17: Dc around.
Rnd 18: [1 dc2tog, 3 dc] twice. 8 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew Legs to Body once you've made all the parts.
Tail
Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With CC1 and working into a Magic Ring, 4 dc. 4 sts
Rnd 2: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] twice. 6 sts
Rnds 3-5: Dc around.
Change to CC2.
Rnd 6: 2 dc in next st, 5 dc. 7 sts
Rnds 7-8: Dc around.
Change to MC.
Rnds 9-13: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew Tail to Body once you've made all the parts.
Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With CC1 and working into a Magic Ring, 4 dc. 4 sts
Rnd 2: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] twice. 6 sts
Rnds 3-5: Dc around.
Change to CC2.
Rnd 6: 2 dc in next st, 5 dc. 7 sts
Rnds 7-8: Dc around.
Change to MC.
Rnds 9-13: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew Tail to Body once you've made all the parts.
Heart
Made from the bottom up. Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With CC3 and working into a Magic Ring, 4 dc. 4 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 8 sts
Rnd 3: Dc around.
Rnd 4: [2 dc in next st, 1 dc] 4 times. 12 sts
Rnd 5: Dc around.
Rnd 6: [2 dc in next st, 2 dc] 4 times. 16 sts
Rnd 7: Dc around.
Rnd 8: [2 dc in next st, 3 dc] 4 times. 20 sts
Rnd 9: Dc around.
Rnd 10: [2 dc in next st, 4 dc] 4 times. 24 sts
Rnd 11: Dc around.
Rnd 12: [2 dc in next st, 5 dc] 4 times. 28 sts
Rnd 13: Dc around.
Rnd 14: [2 dc in next st, 6 dc] 4 times. 32 sts
Rnd 15: Dc around.
Rnd 16: [2 dc in next st, 7 dc] 4 times. 36 sts
Rnd 17: Dc around.
Do not fasten off. The top of the Heart is made in two parts. Stuff as you go. To make the first "bump":
Rnd 18: 9 dc, miss the next 18 sts, 9 dc. 18 sts
Rnds 19-20: Dc around. 18 sts
Rnd 21: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnd 22 : 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Fasten off. Weave yarn tail through FLO of last 6 sts and pull to close hole. Weave in end. To make the second "bump", attach the yarn in the first unused stitch of Rnd 17 and work the following:
Rnd 18: Dc around. 18 sts
It is usual for there to be a small gap between the two bumps when joined - this can be stitched closed with a length of CC3 and a yarn needle once the heart is completed.
Rnds 19-22: Work as for the first "bump" above.
Fasten off. Follow instructions above to close hole in top of second bump. Weave in end. Stitch the gap closed between the two bumps.
Made from the bottom up. Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With CC3 and working into a Magic Ring, 4 dc. 4 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 8 sts
Rnd 3: Dc around.
Rnd 4: [2 dc in next st, 1 dc] 4 times. 12 sts
Rnd 5: Dc around.
Rnd 6: [2 dc in next st, 2 dc] 4 times. 16 sts
Rnd 7: Dc around.
Rnd 8: [2 dc in next st, 3 dc] 4 times. 20 sts
Rnd 9: Dc around.
Rnd 10: [2 dc in next st, 4 dc] 4 times. 24 sts
Rnd 11: Dc around.
Rnd 12: [2 dc in next st, 5 dc] 4 times. 28 sts
Rnd 13: Dc around.
Rnd 14: [2 dc in next st, 6 dc] 4 times. 32 sts
Rnd 15: Dc around.
Rnd 16: [2 dc in next st, 7 dc] 4 times. 36 sts
Rnd 17: Dc around.
Do not fasten off. The top of the Heart is made in two parts. Stuff as you go. To make the first "bump":
Rnd 18: 9 dc, miss the next 18 sts, 9 dc. 18 sts
Rnds 19-20: Dc around. 18 sts
Rnd 21: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnd 22 : 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Fasten off. Weave yarn tail through FLO of last 6 sts and pull to close hole. Weave in end. To make the second "bump", attach the yarn in the first unused stitch of Rnd 17 and work the following:
Rnd 18: Dc around. 18 sts
It is usual for there to be a small gap between the two bumps when joined - this can be stitched closed with a length of CC3 and a yarn needle once the heart is completed.
Rnds 19-22: Work as for the first "bump" above.
Fasten off. Follow instructions above to close hole in top of second bump. Weave in end. Stitch the gap closed between the two bumps.
Puppy - Back
|
Puppy - Base
|
Making Up
Using the photographs as a guide, pin the pieces together first, checking from all angles to make sure you’re happy with the positioning, then use the long yarn tails or a length of yarn with a yarn needle to stitch the pieces together.
Sew the Body onto the bottom of the Head - the back of the neck should sit roughly in line with Rnd 20 of the Head.
Sew the flattened Nose onto the front of the Head with the bottom point of it sitting roughly in line with Rnd 1 of the Head.
Sew the Eyes in place on the Head about 3 stitches apart, with their bottom edge roughly in line with Rnd 13 of the Head.
Sew the Ears to the sides of the Head.
Using CC1, oversew the front edge of the "hands" in two places pulling tightly to constrict the edge creating three finger shapes. Use CC2 to embroider three "claws" on each hand. Create "toes" with "claws" in the same way on the "feet".
You can find a Photo Tutorial showing the technique for creating toes HERE.
Sew the Arms to the sides of the Body about 3-4 rounds down from where it joins the Head. Make sure they are angled forwards slightly and that the "palm" of the Heads sits flat to the sides of the Body.
Sew the Legs to the base of the Body, roughly in line with Rnd 4 of the Body, set forwards slightly so that the Puppy can sit on his bottom, making sure the front edge of his feet are facing forwards.
Sew the Tail to the back of the Body, roughly in line with Rnd 9 of the Body.
Using CC1 stitch the hands onto the Heart. You may find it easiest to stitch the back of the Heart to the Body before you sew the Hands around it.
Using the photographs as a guide, pin the pieces together first, checking from all angles to make sure you’re happy with the positioning, then use the long yarn tails or a length of yarn with a yarn needle to stitch the pieces together.
Sew the Body onto the bottom of the Head - the back of the neck should sit roughly in line with Rnd 20 of the Head.
Sew the flattened Nose onto the front of the Head with the bottom point of it sitting roughly in line with Rnd 1 of the Head.
Sew the Eyes in place on the Head about 3 stitches apart, with their bottom edge roughly in line with Rnd 13 of the Head.
Sew the Ears to the sides of the Head.
Using CC1, oversew the front edge of the "hands" in two places pulling tightly to constrict the edge creating three finger shapes. Use CC2 to embroider three "claws" on each hand. Create "toes" with "claws" in the same way on the "feet".
You can find a Photo Tutorial showing the technique for creating toes HERE.
Sew the Arms to the sides of the Body about 3-4 rounds down from where it joins the Head. Make sure they are angled forwards slightly and that the "palm" of the Heads sits flat to the sides of the Body.
Sew the Legs to the base of the Body, roughly in line with Rnd 4 of the Body, set forwards slightly so that the Puppy can sit on his bottom, making sure the front edge of his feet are facing forwards.
Sew the Tail to the back of the Body, roughly in line with Rnd 9 of the Body.
Using CC1 stitch the hands onto the Heart. You may find it easiest to stitch the back of the Heart to the Body before you sew the Hands around it.
Embroidered Details
Using the photos as a guide, with a yarn needle embroider the following details:
Single stitch highlight on each Eyes, using CC1.
The smile below the Nose using CC2.
All done!
Using the photos as a guide, with a yarn needle embroider the following details:
Single stitch highlight on each Eyes, using CC1.
The smile below the Nose using CC2.
All done!
Terms of Use
I am happy for you to donate, gift or sell any of the my crochet chums you make if you are an individual crafter - please credit mycrochetchums.com as the designer.
If you do wish to sell your my crochet chums, it is your responsibility to ensure that the finished item complies with the relevant toy legislation in your country.
Please be sure to use toy grade stuffing and do not add buttons, bells, ribbons etc that could be a danger to small children.
The patterns are copyright protected and are not for commercial use. They cannot be sold, transmitted, distributed or reproduced in any form or by any means. I’ve worked hard to create the designs - please don’t sell my patterns - it’s just plain mean!
I am happy for you to donate, gift or sell any of the my crochet chums you make if you are an individual crafter - please credit mycrochetchums.com as the designer.
If you do wish to sell your my crochet chums, it is your responsibility to ensure that the finished item complies with the relevant toy legislation in your country.
Please be sure to use toy grade stuffing and do not add buttons, bells, ribbons etc that could be a danger to small children.
The patterns are copyright protected and are not for commercial use. They cannot be sold, transmitted, distributed or reproduced in any form or by any means. I’ve worked hard to create the designs - please don’t sell my patterns - it’s just plain mean!
About mycrochetchums
I started mycrochetchums at the end of 2020 to give me something to focus on during lockdown and to make creative use of a box of Amigurumi Yarn that was an impulse purchase I was feeling guilty about!
I’m loving creating these cute characters and sharpening my tech skills in the process as I wrangle with managing a website and social media.
Check out the mycrochetchums Facebook page - drop me a message there if you have any feedback about the pattern or would like to share a picture of the end result.
You can also find me on Instagram @mycrochetchums.
If you have any questions about any of my patterns (or any other ami you may be working on) please email me at: [email protected] - I’ll do my best to help!
Happy Crocheting!
Pia x
©PIA SIMPSON/ MYCROCHETCHUMS 2022
I started mycrochetchums at the end of 2020 to give me something to focus on during lockdown and to make creative use of a box of Amigurumi Yarn that was an impulse purchase I was feeling guilty about!
I’m loving creating these cute characters and sharpening my tech skills in the process as I wrangle with managing a website and social media.
Check out the mycrochetchums Facebook page - drop me a message there if you have any feedback about the pattern or would like to share a picture of the end result.
You can also find me on Instagram @mycrochetchums.
If you have any questions about any of my patterns (or any other ami you may be working on) please email me at: [email protected] - I’ll do my best to help!
Happy Crocheting!
Pia x
©PIA SIMPSON/ MYCROCHETCHUMS 2022
