#stashbusterchums - No 47 - Gorilla
Scroll down for pattern and more photos!
Yarn
Scheepjes Catona 4ply, 100% Cotton. 125m per 50g.
MC: 40g approx of Black Coffee (162) for Body, Head, Arms, Legs and Ears.
CC1: 25g approx of Root Beer (157) for Face, Muzzle, Nostrils, Hands, Feet and Belly Patch.
CC2: Small amount of Jet Black (110) for Eyes and Mouth.
CC3: Small amount of Snow White (106) for Eye Highlight.
A cotton yarn works well for Ami as it gives good stitch definition and creates a firm structure so body parts hold their shape well. Catona is a relatively thick 4 ply (US: Sport) - you can substitute a DK Cotton (US: DK/Light Worsted) with a similar amount of metres per 50g.
Scheepjes Catona 4ply, 100% Cotton. 125m per 50g.
MC: 40g approx of Black Coffee (162) for Body, Head, Arms, Legs and Ears.
CC1: 25g approx of Root Beer (157) for Face, Muzzle, Nostrils, Hands, Feet and Belly Patch.
CC2: Small amount of Jet Black (110) for Eyes and Mouth.
CC3: Small amount of Snow White (106) for Eye Highlight.
A cotton yarn works well for Ami as it gives good stitch definition and creates a firm structure so body parts hold their shape well. Catona is a relatively thick 4 ply (US: Sport) - you can substitute a DK Cotton (US: DK/Light Worsted) with a similar amount of metres per 50g.
Hook
3 mm
3 mm
Tension
24 sts x 27 rows = 10cm measured over dc using 3mm hook.
Tension is not critical for this project but stitches should be tight enough to avoid stuffing showing through.
24 sts x 27 rows = 10cm measured over dc using 3mm hook.
Tension is not critical for this project but stitches should be tight enough to avoid stuffing showing through.
Other Supplies
Yarn needle, toy stuffing, stitch marker/waste yarn, scissors.
Yarn needle, toy stuffing, stitch marker/waste yarn, scissors.
Size
Approx 21 cm (8.25 in) tall.
Approx 21 cm (8.25 in) tall.
Pattern Notes
Unless otherwise specified this pattern is worked in the amigurumi style, in a continuous spiral without slip stitching or turning chains.
Use a stitch marker or waste yarn to keep track of the first stitch of each round.
If you do not want to make a Magic Ring you can start each piece by making a chain of 2 and then work the first round into the second chain from the hook.
If you would like to start with a Magic Ring but don’t know how, you can find a Photo Tutorial HERE.
The Gorilla is made of multiple separate pieces sewn together. Unless otherwise stated, finish each piece by pulling the yarn through the last loop and leave a long tail for sewing. Any loose tails at the end can be easily woven in.
Unless otherwise specified this pattern is worked in the amigurumi style, in a continuous spiral without slip stitching or turning chains.
Use a stitch marker or waste yarn to keep track of the first stitch of each round.
If you do not want to make a Magic Ring you can start each piece by making a chain of 2 and then work the first round into the second chain from the hook.
If you would like to start with a Magic Ring but don’t know how, you can find a Photo Tutorial HERE.
The Gorilla is made of multiple separate pieces sewn together. Unless otherwise stated, finish each piece by pulling the yarn through the last loop and leave a long tail for sewing. Any loose tails at the end can be easily woven in.
UK Crochet Terms - Abbreviations
This pattern is written using UK Crochet Terms - they are NOT the same as US ones - please familiarise yourself with the UK terms to avoid your character’s shape distorting!
The “dc” abbreviation used in this pattern refers to UK double crochet. The equivalent stitch in US terms is single crochet - if you are used to US patterns you need to work single crochet everywhere this pattern says “dc”. If you work US dc (equivalent to UK Treble) the finished item will be elongated and the stuffing will show through.
This pattern also uses UK htr - half treble - the equivalent US stitch is US hdc - half double crochet.
This pattern is written using UK Crochet Terms - they are NOT the same as US ones - please familiarise yourself with the UK terms to avoid your character’s shape distorting!
The “dc” abbreviation used in this pattern refers to UK double crochet. The equivalent stitch in US terms is single crochet - if you are used to US patterns you need to work single crochet everywhere this pattern says “dc”. If you work US dc (equivalent to UK Treble) the finished item will be elongated and the stuffing will show through.
This pattern also uses UK htr - half treble - the equivalent US stitch is US hdc - half double crochet.
If you are used to working in US Crochet Terms you can find a conversion chart HERE.
If you are unfamiliar with any of the terms used in this pattern, you can find a chart of the UK Crochet terms used HERE.
If you are unfamiliar with any of the terms used in this pattern, you can find a chart of the UK Crochet terms used HERE.
A PDF version of this pattern in US Crochet Terms is available to Mailing Listers - sign up at the top of the page!
Increasing and decreasing You may use either standard increases and decreases in this pattern or, for a much neater finish, invisible ones. FLO = Front loop only.
Decrease - "dc2tog" in pattern.
Invisible decrease: Insert hook in FLO of the two stitches to be decreased, yrh, pull through both front loops, yrh, draw through two loops on hook.
Increase - "2 dc in next st" in pattern.
Invisible Increase: Work 1 dc in FLO of next st and 1 dc in both loops of same st.
Decrease - "dc2tog" in pattern.
Invisible decrease: Insert hook in FLO of the two stitches to be decreased, yrh, pull through both front loops, yrh, draw through two loops on hook.
Increase - "2 dc in next st" in pattern.
Invisible Increase: Work 1 dc in FLO of next st and 1 dc in both loops of same st.
Body
Worked from the bottom upwards. Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 6: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnd 7: Dc around.
Rnd 8: [5 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 42 sts
Rnds 9-14: Dc around.
Rnd 15: [5 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnds 16:-19: Dc around.
Rnd 20: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnds 21-22: Dc around.
Rnd 23: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Body to the Head once you've made all the parts.
Worked from the bottom upwards. Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 6: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnd 7: Dc around.
Rnd 8: [5 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 42 sts
Rnds 9-14: Dc around.
Rnd 15: [5 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnds 16:-19: Dc around.
Rnd 20: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnds 21-22: Dc around.
Rnd 23: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Body to the Head once you've made all the parts.
Head
Worked from the bottom up. Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st]6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 6: Dc around.
Rnd 7: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnd 8: [5 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 42 sts
Rnd 9: [6 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 48 sts
Rnds 10-11: Dc around.
Rnd 12: [6 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 42 sts
Rnds 13-14: Dc around.
Rnd 15: [5 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnds 16-17: Dc around.
Rnd 18: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnds 19-20: Dc around.
Rnd 21: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 22: Dc around.
Rnd 23: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 24: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnd 25: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Fasten off. Weave yarn tail through FLO of last 6 sts and pull to close hole. Weave in end.
Worked from the bottom up. Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st]6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 6: Dc around.
Rnd 7: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnd 8: [5 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 42 sts
Rnd 9: [6 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 48 sts
Rnds 10-11: Dc around.
Rnd 12: [6 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 42 sts
Rnds 13-14: Dc around.
Rnd 15: [5 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnds 16-17: Dc around.
Rnd 18: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnds 19-20: Dc around.
Rnd 21: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 22: Dc around.
Rnd 23: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 24: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnd 25: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Fasten off. Weave yarn tail through FLO of last 6 sts and pull to close hole. Weave in end.
Ears - make 2
Do not stuff.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnds 3-4: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Body to the Head once you've made all the parts.
Do not stuff.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnds 3-4: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Body to the Head once you've made all the parts.
Face Patch
Chains are not included in the stitch count.
With CC1, chain 7.
Rnd 1: Starting in the second chain from hook, 6 dc, 2 ch, rotating as you go, 6 dc down other side of chain, 2 ch. 12 sts
Rnd 2: [6 dc, 3 dc in 2 ch-sp] twice. 18 sts
Rnd 3: *6 dc, [2 dc in next st] 3 times; rep from * once more. 24 sts
Rnd 4: *2 dc in next st, 7 dc, [2 dc in next st, 1 dc] twice; rep from * once more. Turn. 30 sts
Row 5: 1 ch, working in BLO, 20 dc, leave rest of round unworked. Turn. 20 sts
Row 6: 1 ch, sl st in each st across. 20 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Face Patch to the Head once you've made all the parts.
Chains are not included in the stitch count.
With CC1, chain 7.
Rnd 1: Starting in the second chain from hook, 6 dc, 2 ch, rotating as you go, 6 dc down other side of chain, 2 ch. 12 sts
Rnd 2: [6 dc, 3 dc in 2 ch-sp] twice. 18 sts
Rnd 3: *6 dc, [2 dc in next st] 3 times; rep from * once more. 24 sts
Rnd 4: *2 dc in next st, 7 dc, [2 dc in next st, 1 dc] twice; rep from * once more. Turn. 30 sts
Row 5: 1 ch, working in BLO, 20 dc, leave rest of round unworked. Turn. 20 sts
Row 6: 1 ch, sl st in each st across. 20 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Face Patch to the Head once you've made all the parts.
Muzzle
Worked from front to back.
With CC1, chain 7.
Rnd 1: Starting in the second chain from hook, 6 dc, 2 ch, rotating as you go, 6 dc down other side of chain, 2 ch. 12 sts
Rnd 2: [6 dc, 3 dc in 2 ch-sp] twice. 18 sts
Rnd 3: *6 dc, [2 dc in next st] 3 times; rep from * once more. 24 sts
Rnd 4: 1 dc, [2 dc in next st, 3 dc] 5 times, 2 dc in next st, 2 dc. 30 sts
Rnds 5-7: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Muzzle over the Head Patch once you've made all the parts.
Worked from front to back.
With CC1, chain 7.
Rnd 1: Starting in the second chain from hook, 6 dc, 2 ch, rotating as you go, 6 dc down other side of chain, 2 ch. 12 sts
Rnd 2: [6 dc, 3 dc in 2 ch-sp] twice. 18 sts
Rnd 3: *6 dc, [2 dc in next st] 3 times; rep from * once more. 24 sts
Rnd 4: 1 dc, [2 dc in next st, 3 dc] 5 times, 2 dc in next st, 2 dc. 30 sts
Rnds 5-7: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Muzzle over the Head Patch once you've made all the parts.
Eyes - make 2
Rnd 1: With CC2 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc, sl st in first dc to join. 6 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail for sewing the Eyes to the Face Patch once you['ve made all the parts.
Rnd 1: With CC2 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc, sl st in first dc to join. 6 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail for sewing the Eyes to the Face Patch once you['ve made all the parts.
Nostrils - make 2
Rnd 1: With CC1 and working into a magic ring, 10 dc, do not sl st to join. 10 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail. Pinch the edge where you've fastened off and using the yarn tail and a yarn needle, secure in the pinched shape with a couple of stitches. You will use the rest of the yarn tail later to sew the Nostril onto the Muzzle.
Rnd 1: With CC1 and working into a magic ring, 10 dc, do not sl st to join. 10 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail. Pinch the edge where you've fastened off and using the yarn tail and a yarn needle, secure in the pinched shape with a couple of stitches. You will use the rest of the yarn tail later to sew the Nostril onto the Muzzle.
Belly Patch
Rnd 1: With CC1 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: 3 dc, 2 htr in next st, 3 htr, 2 htr in next st, [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 4 times. 30 sts
Rnd 6: 4 dc, 2 htr in next st, 4 dc, 2 htr in next st, [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 4 times. 36 sts
Rnd 7: [5 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 42 sts.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Belly Patch on to the Body once you've made all the parts.
Rnd 1: With CC1 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: 3 dc, 2 htr in next st, 3 htr, 2 htr in next st, [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 4 times. 30 sts
Rnd 6: 4 dc, 2 htr in next st, 4 dc, 2 htr in next st, [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 4 times. 36 sts
Rnd 7: [5 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 42 sts.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Belly Patch on to the Body once you've made all the parts.
Legs - make 2
Worked from the bottom up. The Feet are made separately (see next pattern section below) and are attached to the bottom of the Legs once you've finished making all the parts.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: Working in the BLO, dc around.
Rnds 4-5: Dc around.
Rnd 6: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 15 sts
Rnd 7: Dc around.
Rnd 8: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 12 sts
Rnd 9: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnds 10-13: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Legs to the Body once you've made all the parts.
Worked from the bottom up. The Feet are made separately (see next pattern section below) and are attached to the bottom of the Legs once you've finished making all the parts.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: Working in the BLO, dc around.
Rnds 4-5: Dc around.
Rnd 6: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 15 sts
Rnd 7: Dc around.
Rnd 8: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 12 sts
Rnd 9: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnds 10-13: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Legs to the Body once you've made all the parts.
Feet - make 2
Stuff as you go.
With CC1, chain 7.
Rnd 1: Starting in the second ch from hook, 5 dc, 4 dc in next st, rotating as you go, 4 dc, 3 dc in next st. 16 sts
Rnds 2-3: Dc around.
Rnd 4: [6 dc, 1 dc2tog] twice. 14 sts
Rnd 5: [5 dc, 1 dc2tog] twice. 12 sts
Rnds 6-7: Dc around.
Rnd 8: [1 dc2tog, 4 dc] twice. 10 sts
Rnd 9: 5 dc2tog. 5 sts.
Fasten off. Weave yarn tail through FLO of last 5 sts and pull to close hole. Weave in end.
Stuff as you go.
With CC1, chain 7.
Rnd 1: Starting in the second ch from hook, 5 dc, 4 dc in next st, rotating as you go, 4 dc, 3 dc in next st. 16 sts
Rnds 2-3: Dc around.
Rnd 4: [6 dc, 1 dc2tog] twice. 14 sts
Rnd 5: [5 dc, 1 dc2tog] twice. 12 sts
Rnds 6-7: Dc around.
Rnd 8: [1 dc2tog, 4 dc] twice. 10 sts
Rnd 9: 5 dc2tog. 5 sts.
Fasten off. Weave yarn tail through FLO of last 5 sts and pull to close hole. Weave in end.
Fingers/Toes - make 16
Do not stuff.
Rnd 1: With CC1 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnds 2-3: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Fingers/Toes to the Hands/Feet once you've made all the parts.
Do not stuff.
Rnd 1: With CC1 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnds 2-3: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Fingers/Toes to the Hands/Feet once you've made all the parts.
Arms (with Hands) - make 2
Unlike the Legs and Feet, which are made separately then stitched together, the Hands and Arms are made as one piece, starting at the end of the Hand and working up the Arm. Stuff as you go.
With CC1, chain 7.
Rnd 1: Starting in the second ch from hook, 5 dc, 4 dc in next st, rotating as you go, 4 dc, 3 dc in next st. 16 sts
Rnds 2-3: Dc around.
Rnd 4: [6 dc, 1 dc2tog] twice. 14 sts
Rnd 5: [5 dc, 1 dc2tog] twice. 12 sts
Rnds 6-7: Dc around.
Rnd 8: [1 dc2tog, 4 dc] twice. 10 sts
Change to MC.
Rnd 9: Working in FLO for the whole round, [2 dc in next st, 4 dc] twice. 12 sts
Rnd 10: Working in FLO for the whole round, [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnds 11-14: Dc around.
Rnd 15: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 15 sts
Rnds 16-17: Dc around.
Rnd 18: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 12 sts
Rnd 19: Dc around.
Rnd 20: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnd 21: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Arms to the Body once you've made all the parts.
Unlike the Legs and Feet, which are made separately then stitched together, the Hands and Arms are made as one piece, starting at the end of the Hand and working up the Arm. Stuff as you go.
With CC1, chain 7.
Rnd 1: Starting in the second ch from hook, 5 dc, 4 dc in next st, rotating as you go, 4 dc, 3 dc in next st. 16 sts
Rnds 2-3: Dc around.
Rnd 4: [6 dc, 1 dc2tog] twice. 14 sts
Rnd 5: [5 dc, 1 dc2tog] twice. 12 sts
Rnds 6-7: Dc around.
Rnd 8: [1 dc2tog, 4 dc] twice. 10 sts
Change to MC.
Rnd 9: Working in FLO for the whole round, [2 dc in next st, 4 dc] twice. 12 sts
Rnd 10: Working in FLO for the whole round, [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnds 11-14: Dc around.
Rnd 15: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 15 sts
Rnds 16-17: Dc around.
Rnd 18: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 12 sts
Rnd 19: Dc around.
Rnd 20: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnd 21: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Arms to the Body once you've made all the parts.
Making Up
Using the photographs as a guide, pin the pieces together first, checking from all angles to make sure you’re happy with the positioning, then use the long yarn tails or a length of yarn with a yarn needle to stitch the pieces together.
Sew the Body onto the bottom of the Head.
Decide which of the wide flat sides of the Head will be the face. Pin the Face Patch into place on the chosen side, centrally aligned with the Body. Make sure the raised edge of the Face Patch (created by the turned rows of Rnds 5 and 6) sits to the top. The top of the Face Patch should sit about 4 rounds down from the top of the Head. Sew the Face Patch into place by stitching around the whole edge - when you do the raised edge section, only work the securing stitches through the unused loops of Rnd 4 of the Face Patch to allow the raised edge to stand up.
Stuff the Muzzle and sew it in place on the Head, so it sits over the bottom part of the Face Patch. The top edge of the Muzzle should just touch the two ends of the raised edge of the Face Patch, leaving enough clear space to attach the Eyes to the Face Patch.
Sew the two Nostrils in place on top of the Muzzle.
Sew the Eyes in place on the Face Patch sitting just above the top edge of the Muzzle.
Sew the flattened Ears in place either side of the Head, curved slightly and with the top of them sitting roughly 11 rounds down from the top of the Head.
Sew the Feet to the bottom of the Legs, angled at 90 degrees to the Leg. Sew the Legs to the base of the Body, ensuring the Feet are facing forwards. The Legs should join onto the front half of the base so that the Gorilla can sit on his bottom.
Sew 3 Toes onto the front edge of each Foot and a further Toe on the inside edge of each.
Sew the Arms onto the Body, attaching them where the Body and Head join, making sure the palms of the Hands are flat on to the sides of the Body. Sew 3 Fingers onto the front edge of each hand and a further Finger (well, Thumb really!) on the front edge of each Hand.
Sew the Belly Patch onto the front of the Body with the htr section of Rnds 5 and 6 of the Belly Patch towards the top of the chest.
Using the photographs as a guide, pin the pieces together first, checking from all angles to make sure you’re happy with the positioning, then use the long yarn tails or a length of yarn with a yarn needle to stitch the pieces together.
Sew the Body onto the bottom of the Head.
Decide which of the wide flat sides of the Head will be the face. Pin the Face Patch into place on the chosen side, centrally aligned with the Body. Make sure the raised edge of the Face Patch (created by the turned rows of Rnds 5 and 6) sits to the top. The top of the Face Patch should sit about 4 rounds down from the top of the Head. Sew the Face Patch into place by stitching around the whole edge - when you do the raised edge section, only work the securing stitches through the unused loops of Rnd 4 of the Face Patch to allow the raised edge to stand up.
Stuff the Muzzle and sew it in place on the Head, so it sits over the bottom part of the Face Patch. The top edge of the Muzzle should just touch the two ends of the raised edge of the Face Patch, leaving enough clear space to attach the Eyes to the Face Patch.
Sew the two Nostrils in place on top of the Muzzle.
Sew the Eyes in place on the Face Patch sitting just above the top edge of the Muzzle.
Sew the flattened Ears in place either side of the Head, curved slightly and with the top of them sitting roughly 11 rounds down from the top of the Head.
Sew the Feet to the bottom of the Legs, angled at 90 degrees to the Leg. Sew the Legs to the base of the Body, ensuring the Feet are facing forwards. The Legs should join onto the front half of the base so that the Gorilla can sit on his bottom.
Sew 3 Toes onto the front edge of each Foot and a further Toe on the inside edge of each.
Sew the Arms onto the Body, attaching them where the Body and Head join, making sure the palms of the Hands are flat on to the sides of the Body. Sew 3 Fingers onto the front edge of each hand and a further Finger (well, Thumb really!) on the front edge of each Hand.
Sew the Belly Patch onto the front of the Body with the htr section of Rnds 5 and 6 of the Belly Patch towards the top of the chest.
Embroidered Details
Using the photos as a guide, with a yarn needle embroider the following details:
Single stitch highlight on each Eyes, using CC3.
The smile below the Nose using CC2.
All done!
Using the photos as a guide, with a yarn needle embroider the following details:
Single stitch highlight on each Eyes, using CC3.
The smile below the Nose using CC2.
All done!
Terms of Use
I am happy for you to donate, gift or sell any of the my crochet chums you make if you are an individual crafter - please credit mycrochetchums.com as the designer.
If you do wish to sell your my crochet chums, it is your responsibility to ensure that the finished item complies with the relevant toy legislation in your country.
Please be sure to use toy grade stuffing and do not add buttons, bells, ribbons etc that could be a danger to small children.
The patterns are copyright protected and are not for commercial use. They cannot be sold, transmitted, distributed or reproduced in any form or by any means. I’ve worked hard to create the designs - please don’t sell my patterns - it’s just plain mean!
I am happy for you to donate, gift or sell any of the my crochet chums you make if you are an individual crafter - please credit mycrochetchums.com as the designer.
If you do wish to sell your my crochet chums, it is your responsibility to ensure that the finished item complies with the relevant toy legislation in your country.
Please be sure to use toy grade stuffing and do not add buttons, bells, ribbons etc that could be a danger to small children.
The patterns are copyright protected and are not for commercial use. They cannot be sold, transmitted, distributed or reproduced in any form or by any means. I’ve worked hard to create the designs - please don’t sell my patterns - it’s just plain mean!
About mycrochetchums
I started mycrochetchums at the end of 2020 to give me something to focus on during lockdown and to make creative use of a box of Amigurumi Yarn that was an impulse purchase I was feeling guilty about!
I’m loving creating these cute characters and sharpening my tech skills in the process as I wrangle with managing a website and social media.
Check out the mycrochetchums Facebook page - drop me a message there if you have any feedback about the pattern or would like to share a picture of the end result.
You can also find me on Instagram @mycrochetchums.
If you have any questions about any of my patterns (or any other ami you may be working on) please email me at: [email protected] - I’ll do my best to help!
Happy Crocheting!
Pia x
©PIA SIMPSON/ MYCROCHETCHUMS 2021
I started mycrochetchums at the end of 2020 to give me something to focus on during lockdown and to make creative use of a box of Amigurumi Yarn that was an impulse purchase I was feeling guilty about!
I’m loving creating these cute characters and sharpening my tech skills in the process as I wrangle with managing a website and social media.
Check out the mycrochetchums Facebook page - drop me a message there if you have any feedback about the pattern or would like to share a picture of the end result.
You can also find me on Instagram @mycrochetchums.
If you have any questions about any of my patterns (or any other ami you may be working on) please email me at: [email protected] - I’ll do my best to help!
Happy Crocheting!
Pia x
©PIA SIMPSON/ MYCROCHETCHUMS 2021