#lockdownamichallenge - No 4 - Flamingo
#lockdownamichallenge No 4
Flamingo
Scroll down the page for more pics of this flamboyant fella!
Yarn Used
30g approx Coral (MC)- for Head, Body, Wings and Head Tuft.
15g approx Pale Pink (CC1) for Beak, Legs and Wings.
15g approx Dark Grey (CC2) for Beak and Feet.
Small amount of White (CC3) for Face Patch and embroidered details.
Small amount of Black (CC4) for Eyes.
100% Cotton 25g = 57.5m
I used Aldi Amigurumi Yarn for the Flamingo - roughly DK weight. A cotton yarn works well for Ami as it gives good stitch definition and creates a firm structure so body parts hold their shape well.
15g approx Pale Pink (CC1) for Beak, Legs and Wings.
15g approx Dark Grey (CC2) for Beak and Feet.
Small amount of White (CC3) for Face Patch and embroidered details.
Small amount of Black (CC4) for Eyes.
100% Cotton 25g = 57.5m
I used Aldi Amigurumi Yarn for the Flamingo - roughly DK weight. A cotton yarn works well for Ami as it gives good stitch definition and creates a firm structure so body parts hold their shape well.
Hook
3mm
Tension
Tension is not critical for this project but stitches should be tight enough to avoid stuffing showing through.
Other Supplies
yarn needle
toy stuffing
stitch marker/waste yarn.
toy stuffing
stitch marker/waste yarn.
Sizing
25cm (10 in) approx from top of head to bottom of feet.
Pattern Notes
Unless otherwise specified this pattern is worked in the amigurumi style, in a spiral without slip stitching or turning chains.
Use a stitch marker or waste yarn to keep track of the first stitch of each round.
The Flamingo is made of multiple separate pieces sewn together.Unless otherwise stated, finish each piece by pulling the yarn through the last loop and leave a long tail for sewing. Any loose tails at the end can be easily woven in.
With pieces that start with a chain and have additional chains within the round, these are not counted in the total stitch count for that round.
Slip stitches are not counted in the total stitch count for a round.
Use a stitch marker or waste yarn to keep track of the first stitch of each round.
The Flamingo is made of multiple separate pieces sewn together.Unless otherwise stated, finish each piece by pulling the yarn through the last loop and leave a long tail for sewing. Any loose tails at the end can be easily woven in.
With pieces that start with a chain and have additional chains within the round, these are not counted in the total stitch count for that round.
Slip stitches are not counted in the total stitch count for a round.
Abbreviations used in this pattern - UK Crochet Terms
This pattern is written using UK Crochet Terms - they are NOT the same as US ones - please familiarise yourself with the UK terms to avoid your character’s shape distorting!
The “dc” abbreviation used in this pattern refers to UK double crochet. The equivalent stitch in US terms is single crochet - if you are used to US patterns you need to work single crochet everywhere this pattern says “dc”. If you work US dc (equivalent to UK Treble) the finished item will be elongated and the stuffing will show through. Similarly, the "htr" abbreviation used here refers to UK half treble crochet. The equivalent stitch in US terms is half double crochet - US Crocheters need to work half double crochet everywhere this pattern says "htr". The "tr" in this pattern refers to UK Treble Crochet - the equivalent stitch in US terms is double crochet (dc).
The “dc” abbreviation used in this pattern refers to UK double crochet. The equivalent stitch in US terms is single crochet - if you are used to US patterns you need to work single crochet everywhere this pattern says “dc”. If you work US dc (equivalent to UK Treble) the finished item will be elongated and the stuffing will show through. Similarly, the "htr" abbreviation used here refers to UK half treble crochet. The equivalent stitch in US terms is half double crochet - US Crocheters need to work half double crochet everywhere this pattern says "htr". The "tr" in this pattern refers to UK Treble Crochet - the equivalent stitch in US terms is double crochet (dc).
If any of the abbreviations used in this pattern are unfamiliar, you can find a chart of UK Terms HERE.
This pattern uses UK Terms -if you are used to working in US Crochet Terms you can find a conversion chart HERE.
This pattern uses UK Terms -if you are used to working in US Crochet Terms you can find a conversion chart HERE.
Increasing and decreasing
The “invisible” techniques below are recommended to give your amigurumi a neat finish:
Invisible Increase: Work 1 dc in FLO of next st and 1 dc in both loops of same st.
Invisible decrease: Insert hook in FLO of the two stitches to be decreased, yrh, pull through both front loops, yrh, draw through two loops on hook.
Invisible Increase: Work 1 dc in FLO of next st and 1 dc in both loops of same st.
Invisible decrease: Insert hook in FLO of the two stitches to be decreased, yrh, pull through both front loops, yrh, draw through two loops on hook.
Changing Colour
Change colour on the last yrh of the last st of the previous round.
Flamingo - Side Front
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Flamingo - Rear
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Flamingo - Side
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Time to start crocheting!
Body
Rnd 1: With MC and working in a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24sts
Rnd 5: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 6: [4dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnds 7-10: Dc around.
Rnd 11: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 12: Dc around.
Rnd 13: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 14: Dc around.
Rnd 15: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnds 16-18: Dc around.
Rnd 19: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 15 sts
Rnds 20-22: Dc around.
Fasten off leaving a long tail. Stuff body.
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24sts
Rnd 5: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 6: [4dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnds 7-10: Dc around.
Rnd 11: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 12: Dc around.
Rnd 13: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 14: Dc around.
Rnd 15: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnds 16-18: Dc around.
Rnd 19: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 15 sts
Rnds 20-22: Dc around.
Fasten off leaving a long tail. Stuff body.
Head
Stuff the head as you go.
If you're flummoxed by the first two rounds -there's a photo tutorial HERE.
With MC, chain 4.
Rnd 1: Starting in 2nd ch from hook, 3 dc, 2 ch, rotating as you go, work in the other side of the chain, 3 dc, 2 ch. 6 sts
Rnd 2: [3 dc, 3 dc in the 2 ch-sp ] twice. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [2 dc in next st, 1 dc] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: 1 dc, [2 dc in next st, 2 dc] 5 times, 2 dc in next st, 1 dc. 24sts
Rnd 5: 2 dc, [2 dc in next st, 3 dc] 5 times, 2 dc in next st, 1 dc. 30 sts
Rnd 6: 4 dc, [2 dc in next st, 4 dc] 5 times, 2 dc in next st. 36 sts
Rnd 7: [2 dc in next st, 5 dc] 6 times. 42 sts
Rnds 8-9: Dc around.
Rnd 10: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] twice, 13 dc, [1 dc2tog, 1 dc] twice, 1 dc2tog, 13 dc, 1 dc2tog. 36 sts
Rnd 11: 1 dc2tog, 1 dc, 1 dc2tog, 10 dc, [1 dc2tog, 1 dc] twice, 1 dc2tog, 10 dc, 1 dc2tog, 1 dc. 30 sts
Rnd 12: 2 dc, [1 dc2tog, 3 dc] 5 times, 1 dc2tog, 1 dc. 24 sts
Rnd 13: Dc around.
Rnd 14: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 15: Dc around.
Rnd 16: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnd 17: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Fasten off, weave in end.
If you're flummoxed by the first two rounds -there's a photo tutorial HERE.
With MC, chain 4.
Rnd 1: Starting in 2nd ch from hook, 3 dc, 2 ch, rotating as you go, work in the other side of the chain, 3 dc, 2 ch. 6 sts
Rnd 2: [3 dc, 3 dc in the 2 ch-sp ] twice. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [2 dc in next st, 1 dc] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: 1 dc, [2 dc in next st, 2 dc] 5 times, 2 dc in next st, 1 dc. 24sts
Rnd 5: 2 dc, [2 dc in next st, 3 dc] 5 times, 2 dc in next st, 1 dc. 30 sts
Rnd 6: 4 dc, [2 dc in next st, 4 dc] 5 times, 2 dc in next st. 36 sts
Rnd 7: [2 dc in next st, 5 dc] 6 times. 42 sts
Rnds 8-9: Dc around.
Rnd 10: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] twice, 13 dc, [1 dc2tog, 1 dc] twice, 1 dc2tog, 13 dc, 1 dc2tog. 36 sts
Rnd 11: 1 dc2tog, 1 dc, 1 dc2tog, 10 dc, [1 dc2tog, 1 dc] twice, 1 dc2tog, 10 dc, 1 dc2tog, 1 dc. 30 sts
Rnd 12: 2 dc, [1 dc2tog, 3 dc] 5 times, 1 dc2tog, 1 dc. 24 sts
Rnd 13: Dc around.
Rnd 14: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 15: Dc around.
Rnd 16: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnd 17: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Fasten off, weave in end.
Face Patch
Rnd 1: With CC3 and working in a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [2 dc in next st, 2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 18sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc in next st, 4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 24 sts
Fasten off, leaving a long tail.
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [2 dc in next st, 2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 18sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc in next st, 4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 24 sts
Fasten off, leaving a long tail.
Eye - make 2
Rnd 1: With CC4 and working in a magic ring, 4 dc. 4 sts
Join with a slip st into top of first dc.
Fasten off.
Join with a slip st into top of first dc.
Fasten off.
Beak
Join each rnd with sl st in BLO of first dc of each rnd, making sure to miss the sl st from the previous rnd. Work the first st(s) of the next rnd into the same dc as the sl st.
Rnd 1: With CC2 and working into a magic ring, 4 dc, join in BLO. 4 sts
Rnd 2: [1 dc FLO, 1 dc] in next st, 2 dc, 2 dc in next st, join in BLO. 6 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc FLO, 1 dc] in next st, 4 dc, 2 dc in next st, join in BLO. 8 sts
Rnd 4: [1 dc FLO, 1 dc] in next st, 6 dc, 2 dc in next st, join in BLO. 10 sts
Rnd 5: [1 dc FLO, 1 dc] in next st, 2 dc, 2 dc2tog, 2 dc, 2 dc in next st, join in BLO. 10 sts
Rnd 6: Repeat Rnd 5.
Change colour to CC1.
Rnds 7-9: Repeat Rnd 5.
Rnd 10: [1 dc FLO, 1 dc] in next st, 8 dc, 2 dc in next st, sl st in both loops of first dc to join. 12 sts
Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Stuff the beak.
Rnd 1: With CC2 and working into a magic ring, 4 dc, join in BLO. 4 sts
Rnd 2: [1 dc FLO, 1 dc] in next st, 2 dc, 2 dc in next st, join in BLO. 6 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc FLO, 1 dc] in next st, 4 dc, 2 dc in next st, join in BLO. 8 sts
Rnd 4: [1 dc FLO, 1 dc] in next st, 6 dc, 2 dc in next st, join in BLO. 10 sts
Rnd 5: [1 dc FLO, 1 dc] in next st, 2 dc, 2 dc2tog, 2 dc, 2 dc in next st, join in BLO. 10 sts
Rnd 6: Repeat Rnd 5.
Change colour to CC1.
Rnds 7-9: Repeat Rnd 5.
Rnd 10: [1 dc FLO, 1 dc] in next st, 8 dc, 2 dc in next st, sl st in both loops of first dc to join. 12 sts
Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Stuff the beak.
Head Tuft
Rnd 1: With MC, 6 ch, sl st in first ch.
Rnd 2: 6 ch, sl st in first ch of Rnd 1.
Rnds 3-5: Repeat Rnd 2.
Fasten off, leaving a long tail.
Rnd 2: 6 ch, sl st in first ch of Rnd 1.
Rnds 3-5: Repeat Rnd 2.
Fasten off, leaving a long tail.
Tail Cone
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 4 dc. 4 sts
Rnd 2: [2 dc in next st, 1 dc] twice. 6 sts
Rnd 3: Dc around.
Rnd 4: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 5: Dc around.
Rnd 6: [ 2 dc in next st, 1 dc] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 7: Dc around.
Rnd 8: [2 dc in next st, 2 dc] 6 times. 24 sts
Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Stuff the tail cone.
Rnd 2: [2 dc in next st, 1 dc] twice. 6 sts
Rnd 3: Dc around.
Rnd 4: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 5: Dc around.
Rnd 6: [ 2 dc in next st, 1 dc] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 7: Dc around.
Rnd 8: [2 dc in next st, 2 dc] 6 times. 24 sts
Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Stuff the tail cone.
Wing
Make two in MC and two in CC1.
Rnd 1: Working into a magic ring, 6dc. 6sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [ 2 dc in next st, 1 dc] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: *1 sl st, [1 htr, 1 tr] in next st, [1 tr, 1 htr] in next st: rep from * 5 more times. 30sts
Fasten off, leaving a long tail.
Rnd 1: Working into a magic ring, 6dc. 6sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [ 2 dc in next st, 1 dc] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: *1 sl st, [1 htr, 1 tr] in next st, [1 tr, 1 htr] in next st: rep from * 5 more times. 30sts
Fasten off, leaving a long tail.
Leg
Make two.
Rnd 1: With CC1 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: Dc around BLO.
Rnds 3-9: Dc around.
Stuff the lower part of the leg lightly, don't stuff any further until you've completed the instructions at the end of Rnd 18.
Rnd 10: Dc around, pm at end of rnd.
Rnds 11-18: Dc around.
Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Using a separate length of CC1 with a yarn needle, sew through both thicknesses of the flattened leg at the level of the stitch marker, closing the bottom half of the leg off from the top to create the bendable knee. Weave in ends. Lightly stuff the top half of the leg.
Rnd 1: With CC1 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: Dc around BLO.
Rnds 3-9: Dc around.
Stuff the lower part of the leg lightly, don't stuff any further until you've completed the instructions at the end of Rnd 18.
Rnd 10: Dc around, pm at end of rnd.
Rnds 11-18: Dc around.
Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Using a separate length of CC1 with a yarn needle, sew through both thicknesses of the flattened leg at the level of the stitch marker, closing the bottom half of the leg off from the top to create the bendable knee. Weave in ends. Lightly stuff the top half of the leg.
Foot
Make two.
Rnd 1: With CC2 and working into a magic ring, 6dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: Dc around.
Rnd 3: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnds 4-6: Dc around.
Rnd 7: *[1 htr, 1 tr] in next st, [1 tr, 1htr, 1 sl st] in next st: rep from * 5 more times. 30 sts
Fasten off. Flatten the foot and working through both thicknesses, use the yarn tail to sew the last round closed, creating the scalloped toes. Weave in end.
Rnd 1: With CC2 and working into a magic ring, 6dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: Dc around.
Rnd 3: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnds 4-6: Dc around.
Rnd 7: *[1 htr, 1 tr] in next st, [1 tr, 1htr, 1 sl st] in next st: rep from * 5 more times. 30 sts
Fasten off. Flatten the foot and working through both thicknesses, use the yarn tail to sew the last round closed, creating the scalloped toes. Weave in end.
Making up
Making up - side front
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Making Up - Wing
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Making Up - Rear
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Using the photographs as a guide, pin the pieces together first, working in the following order and using the long yarn tails or a length of yarn with a yarn needle to stitch the pieces together.
Start with the head:
Sew the Face Patch in place, with the pointy end facing down and with the top of it roughly in line with Rnd 13 of the Head.
Sew the Beak in place at the bottom of the Face Patch.
Sew the Eyes over the Face Patch just above the Beak.
Sew the Top knot in place at the top of the Head.
Attach the Body to the Head.
Sew the tail cone in place with the bottom of it in roughly line with Rnd 6 of the body.
Using the photos as a guide, sew the folded Wings in place.
Attach the feet to the legs, making sure the bendable knee seam sits parallel to the front edge of the foot.
Attach the legs to the body, making sure the feet are facing in the right direction.
Start with the head:
Sew the Face Patch in place, with the pointy end facing down and with the top of it roughly in line with Rnd 13 of the Head.
Sew the Beak in place at the bottom of the Face Patch.
Sew the Eyes over the Face Patch just above the Beak.
Sew the Top knot in place at the top of the Head.
Attach the Body to the Head.
Sew the tail cone in place with the bottom of it in roughly line with Rnd 6 of the body.
Using the photos as a guide, sew the folded Wings in place.
Attach the feet to the legs, making sure the bendable knee seam sits parallel to the front edge of the foot.
Attach the legs to the body, making sure the feet are facing in the right direction.
Embroidered details
Use CC3 to embroider the highlights on the eyes and the feather detail on the front of the body and CC2 for the smile on either side of the beak.
Terms of Use
I am happy for you to donate, gift or sell any of the my crochet chums you make if you are an individual crafter - please credit mycrochetchums.weebly.com as the designer.
If you do wish to sell your my crochet chums, it is your responsibility to ensure that the finished item complies with the relevant toy legislation in your country.
Please be sure to use toy grade stuffing and do not add buttons, bells, ribbons etc that could be a danger to small children.
The patterns are copyright protected and are not for commercial use. They cannot be sold, transmitted, distributed or reproduced in any form or by any means. I’ve worked hard to create the designs - please don’t sell my patterns - it’s just plain mean!
© Pia Simpson My Crochet Chums 2020
If you do wish to sell your my crochet chums, it is your responsibility to ensure that the finished item complies with the relevant toy legislation in your country.
Please be sure to use toy grade stuffing and do not add buttons, bells, ribbons etc that could be a danger to small children.
The patterns are copyright protected and are not for commercial use. They cannot be sold, transmitted, distributed or reproduced in any form or by any means. I’ve worked hard to create the designs - please don’t sell my patterns - it’s just plain mean!
© Pia Simpson My Crochet Chums 2020
