#lockdownamichallenge - No 34 - Llama
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Yarn
Aldi So Crafty Knit & Purl Amigurumi Yarn - described on the box as "Light" - Equivalent to DK.
30g approx of Brown (MC) for Body, Ears and Tail.
10g approx of Cream (CC1) for Snout and Legs.
Small amount of Bright Pink (CC2) for Blanket and Pom Pom.
Small amount of Blue (CC3) for Blanket and Pom Pom.
Small amount of Purple (CC4) for Blanket and Pom Pom.
Small amount of Lime (CC5) for Blanket and Pom Pom.
Small amount of Black (CC6) for face detail.
100% Cotton 25g = 57.5m
A cotton yarn works well for Ami as it gives good stitch definition and creates a firm structure so body parts hold their shape well. Any cotton/cotton mix DK should give similar results.
Aldi So Crafty Knit & Purl Amigurumi Yarn - described on the box as "Light" - Equivalent to DK.
30g approx of Brown (MC) for Body, Ears and Tail.
10g approx of Cream (CC1) for Snout and Legs.
Small amount of Bright Pink (CC2) for Blanket and Pom Pom.
Small amount of Blue (CC3) for Blanket and Pom Pom.
Small amount of Purple (CC4) for Blanket and Pom Pom.
Small amount of Lime (CC5) for Blanket and Pom Pom.
Small amount of Black (CC6) for face detail.
100% Cotton 25g = 57.5m
A cotton yarn works well for Ami as it gives good stitch definition and creates a firm structure so body parts hold their shape well. Any cotton/cotton mix DK should give similar results.
Hook
3 mm
3 mm
Other Supplies
Yarn needle, toy stuffing, stitch marker/waste yarn.
Yarn needle, toy stuffing, stitch marker/waste yarn.
Tension
Tension is not critical for this project but stitches should be tight enough to avoid stuffing showing through.
Tension is not critical for this project but stitches should be tight enough to avoid stuffing showing through.
Size
Approx 22cm (8.5in) from tips of ears to hooves.
Approx 22cm (8.5in) from tips of ears to hooves.
Pattern Notes
Unless otherwise specified this pattern is worked in the amigurumi style, in a continuous spiral without slip stitching or turning chains.
Use a stitch marker or waste yarn to keep track of the first stitch of each round.
If you do not want to make a Magic Ring you can start each piece by making a chain of 2 and then work the first round into the second chain from the hook.
If you would like to start with a Magic Ring but don’t know how, you can find a Photo Tutorial HERE.
The Llama is made of multiple separate pieces sewn together. Unless otherwise stated, finish each piece by pulling the yarn through the last loop and leave a long tail for sewing. Any loose tails at the end can be easily woven in.
Unless otherwise specified this pattern is worked in the amigurumi style, in a continuous spiral without slip stitching or turning chains.
Use a stitch marker or waste yarn to keep track of the first stitch of each round.
If you do not want to make a Magic Ring you can start each piece by making a chain of 2 and then work the first round into the second chain from the hook.
If you would like to start with a Magic Ring but don’t know how, you can find a Photo Tutorial HERE.
The Llama is made of multiple separate pieces sewn together. Unless otherwise stated, finish each piece by pulling the yarn through the last loop and leave a long tail for sewing. Any loose tails at the end can be easily woven in.
Increasing and decreasing
The “invisible” techniques below are recommended to give your amigurumi a neat finish:
Invisible Increase: Work 1 dc in FLO of next st and 1 dc in both loops of same st.
Invisible decrease: Insert hook in FLO of the two stitches to be decreased, yrh, pull through both front loops, yrh, draw through two loops on hook.
The “invisible” techniques below are recommended to give your amigurumi a neat finish:
Invisible Increase: Work 1 dc in FLO of next st and 1 dc in both loops of same st.
Invisible decrease: Insert hook in FLO of the two stitches to be decreased, yrh, pull through both front loops, yrh, draw through two loops on hook.
UK Crochet Terms - Abbreviations
This pattern is written using UK Crochet Terms - they are NOT the same as US ones - please familiarise yourself with the UK terms to avoid your character’s shape distorting!
The “dc” abbreviation used in this pattern refers to UK double crochet. The equivalent stitch in US terms is single crochet - if you are used to US patterns you need to work single crochet everywhere this pattern says “dc”. If you work US dc (equivalent to UK Treble) the finished item will be elongated and the stuffing will show through.
This pattern is written using UK Crochet Terms - they are NOT the same as US ones - please familiarise yourself with the UK terms to avoid your character’s shape distorting!
The “dc” abbreviation used in this pattern refers to UK double crochet. The equivalent stitch in US terms is single crochet - if you are used to US patterns you need to work single crochet everywhere this pattern says “dc”. If you work US dc (equivalent to UK Treble) the finished item will be elongated and the stuffing will show through.
If you are used to working in US Crochet Terms you can find a conversion chart HERE.
If you are unfamiliar with any of the terms used in this pattern, you can find a chart of the UK Crochet terms used HERE.
If you are unfamiliar with any of the terms used in this pattern, you can find a chart of the UK Crochet terms used HERE.
Head, Neck and Body.
Worked as one piece from top of the head down. Stuff as you go. Chains are not included in the stitch count.
Rnd 1: With MC and working in a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnds 4-5: Dc around.
Rnd 6: {2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnds 7-8: Dc around.
Rnd 9: [1 dc2tog, 1 dc] 6 times, 6 dc. 18 sts
Rnds 10-11: Dc around.
Rnd 12: [1 dc2tog] 6 times, 6 dc. 12 sts
Rnds 13-21: Dc around.
Rnd 22: 9 dc, 13 ch, starting in 2nd ch from hook, 12 dc down ch, 3 dc. 24 sts
Rnd 23: 9 dc, 12 dc down other side of ch, rotating as you go, 2 ch, 15 dc. 36 sts
Rnd 24: 21 dc, 3 dc in 2 ch-sp, 15 dc. 39 sts
Rnd 25: 21 dc, [2 dc in next st] 3 times, 15 dc. 42 sts
Rnd 26: Dc around.
Rnd 27: [2 dc in next st, 6 dc] 6 times. 48 sts
Rnds 28-29: Dc around.
Rnd 30: 4 dc, [1 dc2tog, 6 dc] 5 times, 1 dc2tog, 2 dc. 42 sts
Rnd 31: Dc around.
Rnd 32: 4 dc, [1 dc2tog, 5 dc] 5 times, 1 dc2tog, 1 dc. 36 sts
Rnd 33: Dc around.
Rnd 34: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 35: Dc around.
Rnd 36: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 37: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 38: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnd 39: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Fasten off.
Worked as one piece from top of the head down. Stuff as you go. Chains are not included in the stitch count.
Rnd 1: With MC and working in a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnds 4-5: Dc around.
Rnd 6: {2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnds 7-8: Dc around.
Rnd 9: [1 dc2tog, 1 dc] 6 times, 6 dc. 18 sts
Rnds 10-11: Dc around.
Rnd 12: [1 dc2tog] 6 times, 6 dc. 12 sts
Rnds 13-21: Dc around.
Rnd 22: 9 dc, 13 ch, starting in 2nd ch from hook, 12 dc down ch, 3 dc. 24 sts
Rnd 23: 9 dc, 12 dc down other side of ch, rotating as you go, 2 ch, 15 dc. 36 sts
Rnd 24: 21 dc, 3 dc in 2 ch-sp, 15 dc. 39 sts
Rnd 25: 21 dc, [2 dc in next st] 3 times, 15 dc. 42 sts
Rnd 26: Dc around.
Rnd 27: [2 dc in next st, 6 dc] 6 times. 48 sts
Rnds 28-29: Dc around.
Rnd 30: 4 dc, [1 dc2tog, 6 dc] 5 times, 1 dc2tog, 2 dc. 42 sts
Rnd 31: Dc around.
Rnd 32: 4 dc, [1 dc2tog, 5 dc] 5 times, 1 dc2tog, 1 dc. 36 sts
Rnd 33: Dc around.
Rnd 34: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 35: Dc around.
Rnd 36: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 37: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 38: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnd 39: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Fasten off.
Ears - make 2
No need to stuff.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 4 dc. 4 sts
Rnd 2: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] twice. 6 sts
Rnd 3: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] twice. 8 sts
Rnd 4: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] twice. 10 sts
Rnd 5: Dc around.
Rnd 6: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] twice. 8 sts
Rnd 7: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] twice. 6 sts
Fasten off.
No need to stuff.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 4 dc. 4 sts
Rnd 2: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] twice. 6 sts
Rnd 3: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] twice. 8 sts
Rnd 4: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] twice. 10 sts
Rnd 5: Dc around.
Rnd 6: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] twice. 8 sts
Rnd 7: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] twice. 6 sts
Fasten off.
Tail
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 4 dc. 4 sts
Rnds 2-5: Dc around.
Fasten off.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 4 dc. 4 sts
Rnds 2-5: Dc around.
Fasten off.
Legs - make 4
Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With CC1 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: 12 dc in BLO.
Rnd 4: Dc around.
Rnd 5: 1 dc2tog, 10 dc. 11 sts
Rnd 6: Dc around.
Rnd 7: 1 dc2tog, 9 dc. 10 sts
Rnd 8: Dc around.
Rnd 9: [1 dc2tog, 3 dc] twice. 8 sts
Rnd 10: Dc around.
Rnd 11: [1 dc2tog, 2 dc] twice. 6 sts
Rnd 12: Dc around.
Fasten off.
Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With CC1 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: 12 dc in BLO.
Rnd 4: Dc around.
Rnd 5: 1 dc2tog, 10 dc. 11 sts
Rnd 6: Dc around.
Rnd 7: 1 dc2tog, 9 dc. 10 sts
Rnd 8: Dc around.
Rnd 9: [1 dc2tog, 3 dc] twice. 8 sts
Rnd 10: Dc around.
Rnd 11: [1 dc2tog, 2 dc] twice. 6 sts
Rnd 12: Dc around.
Fasten off.
Snout
Rnd 1: With CC1 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnds 3-5: Dc around.
Fasten off.
Rnd 1: With CC1 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnds 3-5: Dc around.
Fasten off.
Pom-Poms - make 4
Make one each in CC2, CC3, CC4, CC5. No need to stuff.
Rnd 1: With chosen colour and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 6 sts
Fasten off. Using a yarn needle, weave the yarn tail through the FLO of the last 6 sts and pull up to close the hole.
Make one each in CC2, CC3, CC4, CC5. No need to stuff.
Rnd 1: With chosen colour and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 6 sts
Fasten off. Using a yarn needle, weave the yarn tail through the FLO of the last 6 sts and pull up to close the hole.
Blanket
Chains do not count in stitch count.
Chain 13.
Rnd 1: Starting in 2nd ch from hook, 12 dc, 2 ch, and rotating as you go, 12 dc in other side of ch, ch 2. 24 sts
Rnd 2: [12 dc, 3 dc in 2 ch-sp] twice. 30 sts
Change to CC3.
Rnd 3: *12 dc, [2 dc in next st] 3 times; rep from * once more. 36 sts
Change to CC4.
Rnd 4: *13 dc, [2 dc in next st, 1 dc] twice, 2 dc in next st; rep from * once more. 42 sts
Change to CC5.
Rnd 5: *14 dc, [2 dc in next st, 2 dc] twice, 2 dc in next st; rep from * once more. 48 sts
To work border:
Rnd 6: *1 sl st, [1 sl st, 2 ch, 1 sl st] in next st; rep from * around, join with sl st in beg st.
Fasten off leaving long yarn tail of CC5 for sewing Blanket onto Body later. Rest of yarn tails on Blanket can be cut relatively short as they will be concealed under the Blanket when it is attached to the Llama’s back.
Chains do not count in stitch count.
Chain 13.
Rnd 1: Starting in 2nd ch from hook, 12 dc, 2 ch, and rotating as you go, 12 dc in other side of ch, ch 2. 24 sts
Rnd 2: [12 dc, 3 dc in 2 ch-sp] twice. 30 sts
Change to CC3.
Rnd 3: *12 dc, [2 dc in next st] 3 times; rep from * once more. 36 sts
Change to CC4.
Rnd 4: *13 dc, [2 dc in next st, 1 dc] twice, 2 dc in next st; rep from * once more. 42 sts
Change to CC5.
Rnd 5: *14 dc, [2 dc in next st, 2 dc] twice, 2 dc in next st; rep from * once more. 48 sts
To work border:
Rnd 6: *1 sl st, [1 sl st, 2 ch, 1 sl st] in next st; rep from * around, join with sl st in beg st.
Fasten off leaving long yarn tail of CC5 for sewing Blanket onto Body later. Rest of yarn tails on Blanket can be cut relatively short as they will be concealed under the Blanket when it is attached to the Llama’s back.
Making Up
Using the photographs as a guide, pin the pieces together first, checking from all angles to make sure you’re happy with the positioning, then use the long yarn tails or a length of yarn with a yarn needle to stitch the pieces together.
Sew the stuffed Snout onto the front of the Head. The bottom of it should be roughly in line with Rnd 9 of the Head.
Leaving space to embroider the eyes, sew the four Pom-Poms on the top of the Head.
Pinch the bottom of each Ear to create a small fold and stitch to secure the shape, then sew the Ears in place on the top of the Head behind the Pom-Poms.
Sew the legs in place on the bottom of the Body with all four touching where they join the Body. So that the Llama can stand, to stop the legs splaying out, stitch through all four about 1 cm down from the tops of the legs.
Sew the Blanket on to the Llama’s back.
Sew the Tail onto the Llama’s bottom as shown in the photos.
Using the photographs as a guide, pin the pieces together first, checking from all angles to make sure you’re happy with the positioning, then use the long yarn tails or a length of yarn with a yarn needle to stitch the pieces together.
Sew the stuffed Snout onto the front of the Head. The bottom of it should be roughly in line with Rnd 9 of the Head.
Leaving space to embroider the eyes, sew the four Pom-Poms on the top of the Head.
Pinch the bottom of each Ear to create a small fold and stitch to secure the shape, then sew the Ears in place on the top of the Head behind the Pom-Poms.
Sew the legs in place on the bottom of the Body with all four touching where they join the Body. So that the Llama can stand, to stop the legs splaying out, stitch through all four about 1 cm down from the tops of the legs.
Sew the Blanket on to the Llama’s back.
Sew the Tail onto the Llama’s bottom as shown in the photos.
Embroidered Details
Using the photos as a guide, use CC6 to embroider the closed Eyes and the Nose/Mouth.
Use MC to add the Hoof detail to the bottom of each leg.
All done!
Using the photos as a guide, use CC6 to embroider the closed Eyes and the Nose/Mouth.
Use MC to add the Hoof detail to the bottom of each leg.
All done!
Terms of Use
I am happy for you to donate, gift or sell any of the my crochet chums you make if you are an individual crafter - please credit mycrochetchums.com as the designer.
If you do wish to sell your my crochet chums, it is your responsibility to ensure that the finished item complies with the relevant toy legislation in your country.
Please be sure to use toy grade stuffing and do not add buttons, bells, ribbons etc that could be a danger to small children.
The patterns are copyright protected and are not for commercial use. They cannot be sold, transmitted, distributed or reproduced in any form or by any means. I’ve worked hard to create the designs - please don’t sell my patterns - it’s just plain mean!
I am happy for you to donate, gift or sell any of the my crochet chums you make if you are an individual crafter - please credit mycrochetchums.com as the designer.
If you do wish to sell your my crochet chums, it is your responsibility to ensure that the finished item complies with the relevant toy legislation in your country.
Please be sure to use toy grade stuffing and do not add buttons, bells, ribbons etc that could be a danger to small children.
The patterns are copyright protected and are not for commercial use. They cannot be sold, transmitted, distributed or reproduced in any form or by any means. I’ve worked hard to create the designs - please don’t sell my patterns - it’s just plain mean!
About mycrochetchums
I started mycrochetchums at the end of 2020 to give me something to focus on during lockdown and to make creative use of a box of Aldi Amigurumi Yarn that was an impulse purchase I was feeling guilty about!
I’m loving creating these cute characters and sharpening my tech skills in the process as I wrangle with managing a website and social media.
Check out the mycrochetchums Facebook page - drop me a message there if you have any feedback about the pattern or would like to share a picture of the end result.
You can also find me on Instagram @mycrochetchums.
If you have any questions about any of my patterns (or any other ami you may be working on) please email me at: [email protected] - I’ll do my best to help!
Happy Crocheting!
Pia x
©PIA SIMPSON/ MYCROCHETCHUMS 2021
I started mycrochetchums at the end of 2020 to give me something to focus on during lockdown and to make creative use of a box of Aldi Amigurumi Yarn that was an impulse purchase I was feeling guilty about!
I’m loving creating these cute characters and sharpening my tech skills in the process as I wrangle with managing a website and social media.
Check out the mycrochetchums Facebook page - drop me a message there if you have any feedback about the pattern or would like to share a picture of the end result.
You can also find me on Instagram @mycrochetchums.
If you have any questions about any of my patterns (or any other ami you may be working on) please email me at: [email protected] - I’ll do my best to help!
Happy Crocheting!
Pia x
©PIA SIMPSON/ MYCROCHETCHUMS 2021