#lockdownamichallenge - No 33 - Raccoon
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Yarn
Aldi So Crafty Knit & Purl Amigurumi Yarn - described on the box as "Light" - Equivalent to DK.
30g approx of Sea Green (MC) for Body, head, Ears, Arms, Legs and Tail.
10g approx of Navy (CC1) for Eye Patches, Tail and Embroidered details.
10 g approx of Pale Grey (CC2) for Snout, Paws and Embroidered details.
Small amount of Black (CC3) for Eyes and Mouth.
100% Cotton 25g = 57.5m
A cotton yarn works well for Ami as it gives good stitch definition and creates a firm structure so body parts hold their shape well. Any cotton/cotton mix DK should give similar results.
Aldi So Crafty Knit & Purl Amigurumi Yarn - described on the box as "Light" - Equivalent to DK.
30g approx of Sea Green (MC) for Body, head, Ears, Arms, Legs and Tail.
10g approx of Navy (CC1) for Eye Patches, Tail and Embroidered details.
10 g approx of Pale Grey (CC2) for Snout, Paws and Embroidered details.
Small amount of Black (CC3) for Eyes and Mouth.
100% Cotton 25g = 57.5m
A cotton yarn works well for Ami as it gives good stitch definition and creates a firm structure so body parts hold their shape well. Any cotton/cotton mix DK should give similar results.
Hook
3 mm
3 mm
Other Supplies
Yarn needle, toy stuffing, stitch marker/waste yarn.
Yarn needle, toy stuffing, stitch marker/waste yarn.
Tension
Tension is not critical for this project but stitches should be tight enough to avoid stuffing showing through.
Tension is not critical for this project but stitches should be tight enough to avoid stuffing showing through.
Size
Approx 23cm (9in) from tips of ears to toes.
Approx 23cm (9in) from tips of ears to toes.
Pattern Notes
Unless otherwise specified this pattern is worked in the amigurumi style, in a continuous spiral without slip stitching or turning chains.
Use a stitch marker or waste yarn to keep track of the first stitch of each round.
If you do not want to make a Magic Ring you can start each piece by making a chain of 2 and then work the first round into the second chain from the hook.
If you would like to start with a Magic Ring but don’t know how, you can find a Photo Tutorial HERE.
The Raccoon is made of multiple separate pieces sewn together. Unless otherwise stated, finish each piece by pulling the yarn through the last loop and leave a long tail for sewing. Any loose tails at the end can be easily woven in.
Unless otherwise specified this pattern is worked in the amigurumi style, in a continuous spiral without slip stitching or turning chains.
Use a stitch marker or waste yarn to keep track of the first stitch of each round.
If you do not want to make a Magic Ring you can start each piece by making a chain of 2 and then work the first round into the second chain from the hook.
If you would like to start with a Magic Ring but don’t know how, you can find a Photo Tutorial HERE.
The Raccoon is made of multiple separate pieces sewn together. Unless otherwise stated, finish each piece by pulling the yarn through the last loop and leave a long tail for sewing. Any loose tails at the end can be easily woven in.
Increasing and decreasing
The “invisible” techniques below are recommended to give your amigurumi a neat finish:
Invisible Increase: Work 1 dc in FLO of next st and 1 dc in both loops of same st.
Invisible decrease: Insert hook in FLO of the two stitches to be decreased, yrh, pull through both front loops, yrh, draw through two loops on hook.
The “invisible” techniques below are recommended to give your amigurumi a neat finish:
Invisible Increase: Work 1 dc in FLO of next st and 1 dc in both loops of same st.
Invisible decrease: Insert hook in FLO of the two stitches to be decreased, yrh, pull through both front loops, yrh, draw through two loops on hook.
UK Crochet Terms - Abbreviations
This pattern is written using UK Crochet Terms - they are NOT the same as US ones - please familiarise yourself with the UK terms to avoid your character’s shape distorting!
The “dc” abbreviation used in this pattern refers to UK double crochet. The equivalent stitch in US terms is single crochet - if you are used to US patterns you need to work single crochet everywhere this pattern says “dc”. If you work US dc (equivalent to UK Treble) the finished item will be elongated and the stuffing will show through.
If you are used to working in US Crochet Terms you can find a conversion chart HERE.
If you are unfamiliar with any of the terms used in this pattern, you can find a chart of the UK Crochet terms used HERE.
This pattern is written using UK Crochet Terms - they are NOT the same as US ones - please familiarise yourself with the UK terms to avoid your character’s shape distorting!
The “dc” abbreviation used in this pattern refers to UK double crochet. The equivalent stitch in US terms is single crochet - if you are used to US patterns you need to work single crochet everywhere this pattern says “dc”. If you work US dc (equivalent to UK Treble) the finished item will be elongated and the stuffing will show through.
If you are used to working in US Crochet Terms you can find a conversion chart HERE.
If you are unfamiliar with any of the terms used in this pattern, you can find a chart of the UK Crochet terms used HERE.
Raccoon - front right
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Raccoon - back left
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Body
Worked from bottom up. Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With MC and working in a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: [3dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 6: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnds 7-12: Dc around.
Rnd 13: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnds 14-15: Dc around.
Rnd 16: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnds 17-18: Dc around.
Rnd 19: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 20-22: Dc around.
Fasten off.
Worked from bottom up. Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With MC and working in a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: [3dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 6: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnds 7-12: Dc around.
Rnd 13: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnds 14-15: Dc around.
Rnd 16: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnds 17-18: Dc around.
Rnd 19: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 20-22: Dc around.
Fasten off.
Head
Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around.
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 6: Dc around.
Rnd 7: [4 dc, 2 dc in the next st] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnd 8: Dc around.
Rnd 9: [5 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 42 sts
Rnd 10: Dc around.
Rnd 11: [6 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 48 sts
Rnd 12: 9 dc, 3 dc2tog, 18 dc, 3 dc2tog, 9 dc. 42 sts
Rnd 13: 9 dc, 3 dc2tog, 15 dc, 3 dc2tog, 6 dc. 36 sts
Rnd 14: Dc around.
Rnd 15: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 16: Dc around.
Rnd 17: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 18: Dc around.
Rnd 19: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 20: Dc around.
Rnd 21: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnd 22: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Fasten off. Weave yarn tail through FLO of last 6 sts and pull up to close hole, weave in end.
Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around.
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 6: Dc around.
Rnd 7: [4 dc, 2 dc in the next st] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnd 8: Dc around.
Rnd 9: [5 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 42 sts
Rnd 10: Dc around.
Rnd 11: [6 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 48 sts
Rnd 12: 9 dc, 3 dc2tog, 18 dc, 3 dc2tog, 9 dc. 42 sts
Rnd 13: 9 dc, 3 dc2tog, 15 dc, 3 dc2tog, 6 dc. 36 sts
Rnd 14: Dc around.
Rnd 15: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 16: Dc around.
Rnd 17: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 18: Dc around.
Rnd 19: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 20: Dc around.
Rnd 21: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnd 22: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Fasten off. Weave yarn tail through FLO of last 6 sts and pull up to close hole, weave in end.
Ears - make 2
No need to stuff.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnd 3: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 12 sts
Rnd 4: Dc around.
Rnd 5: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 15 sts
Rnd 6: Dc around.
Rnd 7: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 18 sts
Rnd 8: Dc around.
Fasten off.
No need to stuff.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnd 3: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 12 sts
Rnd 4: Dc around.
Rnd 5: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 15 sts
Rnd 6: Dc around.
Rnd 7: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 18 sts
Rnd 8: Dc around.
Fasten off.
Snout
Rnd 1: With CC2 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: Dc around.
Rnd 4: [2 dc in next st, 2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 18 sts
Rnd 5: Dc around.
Rnd 6: [2 dc in next st, 4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 24 sts
Rnd 7: dc around.
Fasten off.
Rnd 1: With CC2 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: Dc around.
Rnd 4: [2 dc in next st, 2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 18 sts
Rnd 5: Dc around.
Rnd 6: [2 dc in next st, 4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 24 sts
Rnd 7: dc around.
Fasten off.
Pupils - make 2
Rnd 1: With CC3 and working into a magic ring, 4 dc, join with sl st in beg dc. 4 sts
Fasten off.
Rnd 1: With CC3 and working into a magic ring, 4 dc, join with sl st in beg dc. 4 sts
Fasten off.
Eye Patches - make 2
With CC1, chain 7.
Rnd 1: Starting in 2nd ch from hook and rotating as you go, [6 dc, 2 ch] twice. 12 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc, [2 dc in next st] 3 times, 1 dc, 3 dc in 2 ch-sp, 1 dc, [2 dc in next st] 3 times, 2 dc, 3 dc in 2 ch-sp. 24 sts
Rnd 3: 7 dc, *[1 dc, 1 ch, 1 dc] in next st, 3 dc; rep from * twice more, 4 dc, [1 dc, 1 ch, 1dc] in next st. 28 sts
Fasten off.
With CC1, chain 7.
Rnd 1: Starting in 2nd ch from hook and rotating as you go, [6 dc, 2 ch] twice. 12 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc, [2 dc in next st] 3 times, 1 dc, 3 dc in 2 ch-sp, 1 dc, [2 dc in next st] 3 times, 2 dc, 3 dc in 2 ch-sp. 24 sts
Rnd 3: 7 dc, *[1 dc, 1 ch, 1 dc] in next st, 3 dc; rep from * twice more, 4 dc, [1 dc, 1 ch, 1dc] in next st. 28 sts
Fasten off.
Nose
Rnd 1: With CC3 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 9 sts
Fasten off.
Rnd 1: With CC3 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 9 sts
Fasten off.
Arms - make 2
Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With CC2 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Change to MC.
Rnds 3-6: Dc around.
Rnd 7: [1 dc2tog, 4 dc] twice. 10 sts
Rnds 8-10: Dc around.
Rnd 11: [1 dc2tog, 3 dc] twice. 8 sts
Rnds 12-15: Dc around.
Fasten off.
Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With CC2 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Change to MC.
Rnds 3-6: Dc around.
Rnd 7: [1 dc2tog, 4 dc] twice. 10 sts
Rnds 8-10: Dc around.
Rnd 11: [1 dc2tog, 3 dc] twice. 8 sts
Rnds 12-15: Dc around.
Fasten off.
Legs - make 2
Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With CC2 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Change to MC.
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times, 9 dc. 15 sts
Rnd 5: 3 dc2tog, 9 dc. 12 sts
Rnd 6: Dc around.
Rnd 7: 2 dc2tog, 8 dc. 10 sts
Rnds 8-13: Dc around.
Fasten off.
Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With CC2 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Change to MC.
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times, 9 dc. 15 sts
Rnd 5: 3 dc2tog, 9 dc. 12 sts
Rnd 6: Dc around.
Rnd 7: 2 dc2tog, 8 dc. 10 sts
Rnds 8-13: Dc around.
Fasten off.
Tail
Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With CC1 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnd 3: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 12 sts
Rnds 4-5: Dc around.
Change to MC.
Rnd 6: [1dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnds 7-8: Dc around.
Change to CC1.
Rnd 9: Dc around.
Change to MC.
Rnds 10-11: Dc around.
Change to CC1.
Rnd 12: Dc around.
Change to MC.
Rnd 13: Dc around.
Rnd 14: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Change to CC1.
Rnd 15: Dc around.
Change to MC.
Rnd 16: Dc around.
Rnd 17: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Rnd 18: Dc around.
Fasten off.
Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With CC1 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnd 3: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 12 sts
Rnds 4-5: Dc around.
Change to MC.
Rnd 6: [1dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnds 7-8: Dc around.
Change to CC1.
Rnd 9: Dc around.
Change to MC.
Rnds 10-11: Dc around.
Change to CC1.
Rnd 12: Dc around.
Change to MC.
Rnd 13: Dc around.
Rnd 14: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Change to CC1.
Rnd 15: Dc around.
Change to MC.
Rnd 16: Dc around.
Rnd 17: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Rnd 18: Dc around.
Fasten off.
Raccoon - base
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Raccoon - left side
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Making Up
Using the photographs as a guide, pin the pieces together first, checking from all angles to make sure you’re happy with the positioning, then use the long yarn tails or a length of yarn with a tapestry needle to stitch the pieces together.
Stuff the Snout and attach it to one of the wide flat sides of the Head, positioned centrally, with the bottom edge roughly in line with Rnd 4 of the Head and with one of the three “corners” of the Snout pointing up towards the top of the Head.
Position the Eye Patches so that their narrowest ends sit above the Snout. The bottom edge of the Eye Patches should sit down the sides of the Snout - stitch in to place.
Position the Ears so that their bottom edges are in line with the top corner of the Eye Patches and their top edges sit by the last round of the Head - they should be slightly curved. Stitch in to place.
Sew the Pupils in place on top of the Eye Patches above the Snout.
Sew the Nose in place at the end of the Snout.
Sew the Body to the bottom of the Head.
Sew the Arms in place about 3 rounds down from the top of the Body - looking from the side, the Arms should be roughly in line with the Ears.
Sew the Legs to the base of the Body, making sure the front of the feet are facing upwards. The Legs should be roughly in line with Rnd 5 of the Body and sit forward on the base so the Raccoon can sit down.
Sew the Tail in place, centred on the Raccoon’s back, roughly in line with Rnd 8 of the Body.
Using the photographs as a guide, pin the pieces together first, checking from all angles to make sure you’re happy with the positioning, then use the long yarn tails or a length of yarn with a tapestry needle to stitch the pieces together.
Stuff the Snout and attach it to one of the wide flat sides of the Head, positioned centrally, with the bottom edge roughly in line with Rnd 4 of the Head and with one of the three “corners” of the Snout pointing up towards the top of the Head.
Position the Eye Patches so that their narrowest ends sit above the Snout. The bottom edge of the Eye Patches should sit down the sides of the Snout - stitch in to place.
Position the Ears so that their bottom edges are in line with the top corner of the Eye Patches and their top edges sit by the last round of the Head - they should be slightly curved. Stitch in to place.
Sew the Pupils in place on top of the Eye Patches above the Snout.
Sew the Nose in place at the end of the Snout.
Sew the Body to the bottom of the Head.
Sew the Arms in place about 3 rounds down from the top of the Body - looking from the side, the Arms should be roughly in line with the Ears.
Sew the Legs to the base of the Body, making sure the front of the feet are facing upwards. The Legs should be roughly in line with Rnd 5 of the Body and sit forward on the base so the Raccoon can sit down.
Sew the Tail in place, centred on the Raccoon’s back, roughly in line with Rnd 8 of the Body.
Embroidered Details
Using the photos as a guide, use CC2 to embroider the details on the Ears and the single stitch highlight on the Eyes.
Use CC3 to embroider the Mouth.
Use CC1 to embroider the Claws on the Arms and Legs.
Use CC1 and CC2 to embroider the detail on the Raccoon’s chest.
All done!
Using the photos as a guide, use CC2 to embroider the details on the Ears and the single stitch highlight on the Eyes.
Use CC3 to embroider the Mouth.
Use CC1 to embroider the Claws on the Arms and Legs.
Use CC1 and CC2 to embroider the detail on the Raccoon’s chest.
All done!
Terms of Use
I am happy for you to donate, gift or sell any of the my crochet chums you make if you are an individual crafter - please credit mycrochetchums.com as the designer.
If you do wish to sell your my crochet chums, it is your responsibility to ensure that the finished item complies with the relevant toy legislation in your country.
Please be sure to use toy grade stuffing and do not add buttons, bells, ribbons etc that could be a danger to small children.
The patterns are copyright protected and are not for commercial use. They cannot be sold, transmitted, distributed or reproduced in any form or by any means. I’ve worked hard to create the designs - please don’t sell my patterns - it’s just plain mean!
I am happy for you to donate, gift or sell any of the my crochet chums you make if you are an individual crafter - please credit mycrochetchums.com as the designer.
If you do wish to sell your my crochet chums, it is your responsibility to ensure that the finished item complies with the relevant toy legislation in your country.
Please be sure to use toy grade stuffing and do not add buttons, bells, ribbons etc that could be a danger to small children.
The patterns are copyright protected and are not for commercial use. They cannot be sold, transmitted, distributed or reproduced in any form or by any means. I’ve worked hard to create the designs - please don’t sell my patterns - it’s just plain mean!
About mycrochetchums
I started mycrochetchums at the end of 2020 to give me something to focus on during lockdown and to make creative use of a box of Aldi Amigurumi Yarn that was an impulse purchase I was feeling guilty about!
I’m loving creating these cute characters and sharpening my tech skills in the process as I wrangle with managing a website and social media.
Check out the mycrochetchums Facebook page - drop me a message there if you have any feedback about the pattern or would like to share a picture of the end result.
You can also find me on Instagram @mycrochetchums.
If you have any questions about any of my patterns (or any other ami you may be working on) please email me at: [email protected] - I’ll do my best to help!
Happy Crocheting!
Pia x
©PIA SIMPSON/ MYCROCHETCHUMS 2021
I started mycrochetchums at the end of 2020 to give me something to focus on during lockdown and to make creative use of a box of Aldi Amigurumi Yarn that was an impulse purchase I was feeling guilty about!
I’m loving creating these cute characters and sharpening my tech skills in the process as I wrangle with managing a website and social media.
Check out the mycrochetchums Facebook page - drop me a message there if you have any feedback about the pattern or would like to share a picture of the end result.
You can also find me on Instagram @mycrochetchums.
If you have any questions about any of my patterns (or any other ami you may be working on) please email me at: [email protected] - I’ll do my best to help!
Happy Crocheting!
Pia x
©PIA SIMPSON/ MYCROCHETCHUMS 2021
