#lockdownamichallenge - No 32 - Lobster
Scroll down for more pictures!
Yarn
Aldi So Crafty Knit & Purl Amigurumi Yarn - described on the box as "Light" - Equivalent to DK.
40g approx of Red (MC) for Body, Claws, Eye lids, Legs and Tail..
Small amount of Cream (CC1) for Eyes.
Small amount of Black (CC2) for Pupils.
Small amount of Orange (CC3) for embroidered details.
100% Cotton 25g = 57.5m
A cotton yarn works well for Ami as it gives good stitch definition and creates a firm structure so body parts hold their shape well. Any cotton/cotton mix DK should give similar results.
Aldi So Crafty Knit & Purl Amigurumi Yarn - described on the box as "Light" - Equivalent to DK.
40g approx of Red (MC) for Body, Claws, Eye lids, Legs and Tail..
Small amount of Cream (CC1) for Eyes.
Small amount of Black (CC2) for Pupils.
Small amount of Orange (CC3) for embroidered details.
100% Cotton 25g = 57.5m
A cotton yarn works well for Ami as it gives good stitch definition and creates a firm structure so body parts hold their shape well. Any cotton/cotton mix DK should give similar results.
Hook
3 mm
3 mm
Other Supplies
Yarn needle, toy stuffing, stitch marker/waste yarn.
Yarn needle, toy stuffing, stitch marker/waste yarn.
Tension
Tension is not critical for this project but stitches should be tight enough to avoid stuffing showing through.
Tension is not critical for this project but stitches should be tight enough to avoid stuffing showing through.
Size
Approx 18cm (7in) from nose to tail.
Approx 18cm (7in) from nose to tail.
Pattern Notes
Unless otherwise specified this pattern is worked in the amigurumi style, in a continuous spiral without slip stitching or turning chains.
Use a stitch marker or waste yarn to keep track of the first stitch of each round.
If you do not want to make a Magic Ring you can start each piece by making a chain of 2 and then work the first round into the second chain from the hook.
If you would like to start with a Magic Ring but don’t know how, you can find a Photo Tutorial HERE.
The Lobster is made of multiple separate pieces sewn together. Unless otherwise stated, finish each piece by pulling the yarn through the last loop and leave a long tail for sewing. Any loose tails at the end can be easily woven in.
Unless otherwise specified this pattern is worked in the amigurumi style, in a continuous spiral without slip stitching or turning chains.
Use a stitch marker or waste yarn to keep track of the first stitch of each round.
If you do not want to make a Magic Ring you can start each piece by making a chain of 2 and then work the first round into the second chain from the hook.
If you would like to start with a Magic Ring but don’t know how, you can find a Photo Tutorial HERE.
The Lobster is made of multiple separate pieces sewn together. Unless otherwise stated, finish each piece by pulling the yarn through the last loop and leave a long tail for sewing. Any loose tails at the end can be easily woven in.
Increasing and decreasing
The “invisible” techniques below are recommended to give your amigurumi a neat finish:
Invisible Increase: Work 1 dc in FLO of next st and 1 dc in both loops of same st.
Invisible decrease: Insert hook in FLO of the two stitches to be decreased, yrh, pull through both front loops, yrh, draw through two loops on hook.
The “invisible” techniques below are recommended to give your amigurumi a neat finish:
Invisible Increase: Work 1 dc in FLO of next st and 1 dc in both loops of same st.
Invisible decrease: Insert hook in FLO of the two stitches to be decreased, yrh, pull through both front loops, yrh, draw through two loops on hook.
UK Crochet Terms - Abbreviations
This pattern is written using UK Crochet Terms - they are NOT the same as US ones - please familiarise yourself with the UK terms to avoid your character’s shape distorting!
The “dc” abbreviation used in this pattern refers to UK double crochet. The equivalent stitch in US terms is single crochet - if you are used to US patterns you need to work single crochet everywhere this pattern says “dc”. If you work US dc (equivalent to UK Treble) the finished item will be elongated and the stuffing will show through.
If you are used to working in US Crochet Terms you can find a conversion chart HERE.
If you are unfamiliar with any of the terms used in this pattern, you can find a chart of the UK Crochet terms used HERE.
This pattern is written using UK Crochet Terms - they are NOT the same as US ones - please familiarise yourself with the UK terms to avoid your character’s shape distorting!
The “dc” abbreviation used in this pattern refers to UK double crochet. The equivalent stitch in US terms is single crochet - if you are used to US patterns you need to work single crochet everywhere this pattern says “dc”. If you work US dc (equivalent to UK Treble) the finished item will be elongated and the stuffing will show through.
If you are used to working in US Crochet Terms you can find a conversion chart HERE.
If you are unfamiliar with any of the terms used in this pattern, you can find a chart of the UK Crochet terms used HERE.
Body
Worked from nose to tail. Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: {1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: Dc around.
Rnd 5: 6 dc, {2 dc in next st] 6 times, 6 dc. 24 sts
Rnd 6: Dc around.
Rnd 7: 7 dc, {2 dc in next st, 1 dc] 6 times, 5 dc. 30 sts
Rnd 8: Dc around.
Rnd 9: 7 dc, {2 dc in next st, 2 dc] 6 times, 5 dc. 36 sts
Rnds 10-11: Dc around.
Rnd 12: 10 dc, [1 dc2tog, 2 dc] 6 times, 2 dc. 30 sts
Rnds 13-16: Dc around.
Rnd 17: [3 dc, 1 dc 2 tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnds 18-21: Dc around.
Rnd 22: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnds 23-28: Dc around.
Rnd 29: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnds 30-32: Dc around.
Rnd 33: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 34: Dc around.
Rnd 35: 5 dc. 5 sts
Fasten off. Use the yarn tail to sew the end of the body closed.
Worked from nose to tail. Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: {1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: Dc around.
Rnd 5: 6 dc, {2 dc in next st] 6 times, 6 dc. 24 sts
Rnd 6: Dc around.
Rnd 7: 7 dc, {2 dc in next st, 1 dc] 6 times, 5 dc. 30 sts
Rnd 8: Dc around.
Rnd 9: 7 dc, {2 dc in next st, 2 dc] 6 times, 5 dc. 36 sts
Rnds 10-11: Dc around.
Rnd 12: 10 dc, [1 dc2tog, 2 dc] 6 times, 2 dc. 30 sts
Rnds 13-16: Dc around.
Rnd 17: [3 dc, 1 dc 2 tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnds 18-21: Dc around.
Rnd 22: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnds 23-28: Dc around.
Rnd 29: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnds 30-32: Dc around.
Rnd 33: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 34: Dc around.
Rnd 35: 5 dc. 5 sts
Fasten off. Use the yarn tail to sew the end of the body closed.
Tail Piece - make 4
Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnd 3: Dc around.
Rnd 4: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 6 sts
Rnds 5-8: Dc around.
Fasten off.
Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnd 3: Dc around.
Rnd 4: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 6 sts
Rnds 5-8: Dc around.
Fasten off.
Claw - make 2
The claws are made in two parts. The Large Pincer needs to be made first and fastened off. The Small Pincer is then made, the Large Pincer is then joined to it and the rest of the claw is then worked.
The claws are made in two parts. The Large Pincer needs to be made first and fastened off. The Small Pincer is then made, the Large Pincer is then joined to it and the rest of the claw is then worked.
Large Pincer - make 2
Stuff as you go
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice, 2 dc. 8 sts
Rnd 3: Dc around.
Rnd 4: 3 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice, 3 dc. 10 sts
Rnd 5: Dc around.
Rnd 6: 4 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice, 4 dc. 12 sts
Rnd 7: Dc around.
Fasten off. When you join this pincer to the smaller one you will be working into the next unused stitch of this pincer (as if you were starting an 8th round).
Stuff as you go
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice, 2 dc. 8 sts
Rnd 3: Dc around.
Rnd 4: 3 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice, 3 dc. 10 sts
Rnd 5: Dc around.
Rnd 6: 4 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice, 4 dc. 12 sts
Rnd 7: Dc around.
Fasten off. When you join this pincer to the smaller one you will be working into the next unused stitch of this pincer (as if you were starting an 8th round).
Small Pincer - make 2
Stuff as you go.
Work as Rnds 1 -5 of Large Pincer, do not fasten off, continue straight on to Rnd 6 below:
Rnd 6: Starting in next unused st of Large Pincer, 6 dc, 2 dc in next st, 5 dc, then starting in next unused st of Small Pincer, 4 dc, 2 dc in next st, 5 dc. 24 sts
Rnds 7-8: Dc around.
Rnd 9: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnds 10-12: Dc around.
Rnd 13: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnd 14: Dc around.
Rnd 15: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Rnds 16-19: Dc around.
Fasten off.
Stuff as you go.
Work as Rnds 1 -5 of Large Pincer, do not fasten off, continue straight on to Rnd 6 below:
Rnd 6: Starting in next unused st of Large Pincer, 6 dc, 2 dc in next st, 5 dc, then starting in next unused st of Small Pincer, 4 dc, 2 dc in next st, 5 dc. 24 sts
Rnds 7-8: Dc around.
Rnd 9: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnds 10-12: Dc around.
Rnd 13: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnd 14: Dc around.
Rnd 15: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Rnds 16-19: Dc around.
Fasten off.
Side Legs - make 6
No need to stuff.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 5 dc. 5 sts
Rnds 2-6: Dc around.
Fasten off.
No need to stuff.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 5 dc. 5 sts
Rnds 2-6: Dc around.
Fasten off.
Eye Lid - make 2
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnd 3: Dc around.
Rnd 4: 1 dc2tog, 7 dc. 8 sts
Fasten off.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnd 3: Dc around.
Rnd 4: 1 dc2tog, 7 dc. 8 sts
Fasten off.
Eye Ball - make 2
Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With CC1 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnd 3: Dc around.
Rnd 4: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 6 sts
Fasten off. weave yarn tail through FLO of last 6 sts and pull up to close hole.
Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With CC1 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnd 3: Dc around.
Rnd 4: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 6 sts
Fasten off. weave yarn tail through FLO of last 6 sts and pull up to close hole.
Pupils - make 2
Rnd 1: With CC2 and working into a magic ring, 4 dc, join with sl st in beg dc. 4 sts
Fasten off.
Rnd 1: With CC2 and working into a magic ring, 4 dc, join with sl st in beg dc. 4 sts
Fasten off.
Making Up
Using the photographs as a guide, pin the pieces together first, checking from all angles to make sure you’re happy with the positioning, then use the long yarn tails or a length of yarn with a tapestry needle to stitch the pieces together.
Sew the four Tail Pieces on to the end of the Body.
Sew the Claws to the sides of the Body roughly in line with Rnd 16, making sure the Small Pincer part of the Claw sits closest to the Body on each side.
Sew three Side Legs down each side of the Body behind the Claws.
Insert the Eye Balls into the cups of the Eye Lids and stitch into place. Sew the Eyes onto the top of the head end of the Body. Sew the Pupils onto the Eyeballs.
Using the photographs as a guide, pin the pieces together first, checking from all angles to make sure you’re happy with the positioning, then use the long yarn tails or a length of yarn with a tapestry needle to stitch the pieces together.
Sew the four Tail Pieces on to the end of the Body.
Sew the Claws to the sides of the Body roughly in line with Rnd 16, making sure the Small Pincer part of the Claw sits closest to the Body on each side.
Sew three Side Legs down each side of the Body behind the Claws.
Insert the Eye Balls into the cups of the Eye Lids and stitch into place. Sew the Eyes onto the top of the head end of the Body. Sew the Pupils onto the Eyeballs.
Embroidered Details
Using the photos as a guide, use CC2 to embroider the Lobster’s smile.
Use CC3 to embroider the star details on the Lobster’s back and the three sets of double lines across his belly.
Use CC1to add the single stitch highlight on the Pupils.
All done!
Using the photos as a guide, use CC2 to embroider the Lobster’s smile.
Use CC3 to embroider the star details on the Lobster’s back and the three sets of double lines across his belly.
Use CC1to add the single stitch highlight on the Pupils.
All done!
Terms of Use
I am happy for you to donate, gift or sell any of the my crochet chums you make if you are an individual crafter - please credit mycrochetchums.com as the designer.
If you do wish to sell your my crochet chums, it is your responsibility to ensure that the finished item complies with the relevant toy legislation in your country.
Please be sure to use toy grade stuffing and do not add buttons, bells, ribbons etc that could be a danger to small children.
The patterns are copyright protected and are not for commercial use. They cannot be sold, transmitted, distributed or reproduced in any form or by any means. I’ve worked hard to create the designs - please don’t sell my patterns - it’s just plain mean!
I am happy for you to donate, gift or sell any of the my crochet chums you make if you are an individual crafter - please credit mycrochetchums.com as the designer.
If you do wish to sell your my crochet chums, it is your responsibility to ensure that the finished item complies with the relevant toy legislation in your country.
Please be sure to use toy grade stuffing and do not add buttons, bells, ribbons etc that could be a danger to small children.
The patterns are copyright protected and are not for commercial use. They cannot be sold, transmitted, distributed or reproduced in any form or by any means. I’ve worked hard to create the designs - please don’t sell my patterns - it’s just plain mean!
About mycrochetchums
I started mycrochetchums at the end of 2020 to give me something to focus on during lockdown and to make creative use of a box of Aldi Amigurumi Yarn that was an impulse purchase I was feeling guilty about!
I’m loving creating these cute characters and sharpening my tech skills in the process as I wrangle with managing a website and social media.
Check out the mycrochetchums Facebook page - drop me a message there if you have any feedback about the pattern or would like to share a picture of the end result.
You can also find me on Instagram @mycrochetchums.
If you have any questions about any of my patterns (or any other ami you may be working on) please email me at: [email protected] - I’ll do my best to help!
Happy Crocheting!
Pia x
©PIA SIMPSON/ MYCROCHETCHUMS 2021
I started mycrochetchums at the end of 2020 to give me something to focus on during lockdown and to make creative use of a box of Aldi Amigurumi Yarn that was an impulse purchase I was feeling guilty about!
I’m loving creating these cute characters and sharpening my tech skills in the process as I wrangle with managing a website and social media.
Check out the mycrochetchums Facebook page - drop me a message there if you have any feedback about the pattern or would like to share a picture of the end result.
You can also find me on Instagram @mycrochetchums.
If you have any questions about any of my patterns (or any other ami you may be working on) please email me at: [email protected] - I’ll do my best to help!
Happy Crocheting!
Pia x
©PIA SIMPSON/ MYCROCHETCHUMS 2021