#lockdownamichallenge - No 31 - Owl
No 31 Owl
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Yarn
Aldi So Crafty Knit & Purl Amigurumi Yarn - described on the box as "Light" - Equivalent to DK.
25g approx of Purple (MC) for Body.
15g approx of Bright Pink (CC1) for Head, Ears and embroidered detail.
15g approx of Aqua (CC2) for Wings and Eyes.
10g approx of Yellow (CC3) for Feet, Eyes, Beak and embroidered detail.
10g approx of Orange (CC4) for Neck Ruff and embroidered detail.
Small amount of White (CC5) for Eyes.
Small amount of Black (CC6) for Pupils.
100% Cotton 25g = 57.5m
A cotton yarn works well for Ami as it gives good stitch definition and creates a firm structure so body parts hold their shape well. Any cotton/cotton mix DK should give similar results.
Aldi So Crafty Knit & Purl Amigurumi Yarn - described on the box as "Light" - Equivalent to DK.
25g approx of Purple (MC) for Body.
15g approx of Bright Pink (CC1) for Head, Ears and embroidered detail.
15g approx of Aqua (CC2) for Wings and Eyes.
10g approx of Yellow (CC3) for Feet, Eyes, Beak and embroidered detail.
10g approx of Orange (CC4) for Neck Ruff and embroidered detail.
Small amount of White (CC5) for Eyes.
Small amount of Black (CC6) for Pupils.
100% Cotton 25g = 57.5m
A cotton yarn works well for Ami as it gives good stitch definition and creates a firm structure so body parts hold their shape well. Any cotton/cotton mix DK should give similar results.
Hook
3 mm
3 mm
Other Supplies
Yarn needle, toy stuffing, stitch marker/waste yarn.
Yarn needle, toy stuffing, stitch marker/waste yarn.
Tension
Tension is not critical for this project but stitches should be tight enough to avoid stuffing showing through.
Tension is not critical for this project but stitches should be tight enough to avoid stuffing showing through.
Size
Approx 14cm (5.5in) from head to feet.
Approx 14cm (5.5in) from head to feet.
Pattern Notes
Unless otherwise specified this pattern is worked in the amigurumi style, in a continuous spiral without slip stitching or turning chains.
Use a stitch marker or waste yarn to keep track of the first stitch of each round.
If you do not want to make a Magic Ring you can start each piece by making a chain of 2 and then work the first round into the second chain from the hook.
If you would like to start with a Magic Ring but don’t know how, you can find a Photo Tutorial HERE.
The Owl is made of multiple separate pieces sewn together. Unless otherwise stated, finish each piece by pulling the yarn through the last loop and leave a long tail for sewing. Any loose tails at the end can be easily woven in.
Unless otherwise specified this pattern is worked in the amigurumi style, in a continuous spiral without slip stitching or turning chains.
Use a stitch marker or waste yarn to keep track of the first stitch of each round.
If you do not want to make a Magic Ring you can start each piece by making a chain of 2 and then work the first round into the second chain from the hook.
If you would like to start with a Magic Ring but don’t know how, you can find a Photo Tutorial HERE.
The Owl is made of multiple separate pieces sewn together. Unless otherwise stated, finish each piece by pulling the yarn through the last loop and leave a long tail for sewing. Any loose tails at the end can be easily woven in.
Increasing and decreasing
The “invisible” techniques below are recommended to give your amigurumi a neat finish:
Invisible Increase: Work 1 dc in FLO of next st and 1 dc in both loops of same st.
Invisible decrease: Insert hook in FLO of the two stitches to be decreased, yrh, pull through both front loops, yrh, draw through two loops on hook.
The “invisible” techniques below are recommended to give your amigurumi a neat finish:
Invisible Increase: Work 1 dc in FLO of next st and 1 dc in both loops of same st.
Invisible decrease: Insert hook in FLO of the two stitches to be decreased, yrh, pull through both front loops, yrh, draw through two loops on hook.
UK Crochet Terms - Abbreviations
This pattern is written using UK Crochet Terms - they are NOT the same as US ones - please familiarise yourself with the UK terms to avoid your character’s shape distorting!
The “dc” abbreviation used in this pattern refers to UK double crochet. The equivalent stitch in US terms is single crochet - if you are used to US patterns you need to work single crochet everywhere this pattern says “dc”. If you work US dc (equivalent to UK Treble) the finished item will be elongated and the stuffing will show through.
This pattern is written using UK Crochet Terms - they are NOT the same as US ones - please familiarise yourself with the UK terms to avoid your character’s shape distorting!
The “dc” abbreviation used in this pattern refers to UK double crochet. The equivalent stitch in US terms is single crochet - if you are used to US patterns you need to work single crochet everywhere this pattern says “dc”. If you work US dc (equivalent to UK Treble) the finished item will be elongated and the stuffing will show through.
If you are used to working in US Crochet Terms you can find a conversion chart HERE.
If you are unfamiliar with any of the terms used in this pattern, you can find a chart of the UK Crochet terms used HERE.
If you are unfamiliar with any of the terms used in this pattern, you can find a chart of the UK Crochet terms used HERE.
Owl Back
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Owl Front Left
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Body
Worked from the base upwards. Stuff as you go.
If you are unfamiliar with starting an ami pattern with a chain, check out the Oval Start Photo Tutorial HERE.
With MC, chain 7.
Rnd 1: Starting in 2nd chain from hook and rotating as you go, [6 dc, 2 ch] twice. 12 sts
Rnd 2: [6 dc, 3 dc in 2 ch-sp] twice. 18 sts
Rnd 3: 2 dc in next st, 6 dc, [2 dc in next st] 3 times, 6 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice. 24 sts
Rnd 4: 2 dc in next st, 7 dc, [2 dc in next st, 1 dc] twice, 2 dc in next st, 7 dc, [2 dc in next st, 1 dc] twice. 30 sts
Rnd 5: 2 dc, 2 dc in next st, 8 dc, [2 dc in next st, 2 dc] twice, 2 dc in next st, 8 dc, 2 dc in next st, 2 dc, 2 dc in next st. 36 sts
Rnd 6: 3 dc, 2 dc in next st, 9 dc, [2 dc in next st, 3 dc] twice, 2 dc in next st, 9 dc, 2 dc in next st, 3 dc, 2 dc in next st. 42 sts
Rnd 7: [6 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 48 sts
Rnds 8-16: Dc around.
Rnd 17: [6 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 42 sts
Rnds 18-19: Dc around.
Rnd 20: [5 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnd 21: Dc around.
Rnd 22: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 30 sts
Change to CC1.
Rnd 23: Dc around.
Rnd 24: Working in BLO, dc around.
Rnd 25: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnd 26: [5 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 42 sts
Rnds 27-28: Dc around.
Rnd 29: [6 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 48 sts
Rnd 30: Dc around.
Rnd 31: [6 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 42 sts
Rnd 32: Dc around.
Rnd 33: [5 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnd 34: Dc around.
Rnd 35: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 36: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 37: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 38: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnd 39: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Fasten off and using tapestry needle, weave yarn tail through FLO of each stitch in last round, pull up to close hole and weave in end.
Worked from the base upwards. Stuff as you go.
If you are unfamiliar with starting an ami pattern with a chain, check out the Oval Start Photo Tutorial HERE.
With MC, chain 7.
Rnd 1: Starting in 2nd chain from hook and rotating as you go, [6 dc, 2 ch] twice. 12 sts
Rnd 2: [6 dc, 3 dc in 2 ch-sp] twice. 18 sts
Rnd 3: 2 dc in next st, 6 dc, [2 dc in next st] 3 times, 6 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice. 24 sts
Rnd 4: 2 dc in next st, 7 dc, [2 dc in next st, 1 dc] twice, 2 dc in next st, 7 dc, [2 dc in next st, 1 dc] twice. 30 sts
Rnd 5: 2 dc, 2 dc in next st, 8 dc, [2 dc in next st, 2 dc] twice, 2 dc in next st, 8 dc, 2 dc in next st, 2 dc, 2 dc in next st. 36 sts
Rnd 6: 3 dc, 2 dc in next st, 9 dc, [2 dc in next st, 3 dc] twice, 2 dc in next st, 9 dc, 2 dc in next st, 3 dc, 2 dc in next st. 42 sts
Rnd 7: [6 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 48 sts
Rnds 8-16: Dc around.
Rnd 17: [6 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 42 sts
Rnds 18-19: Dc around.
Rnd 20: [5 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnd 21: Dc around.
Rnd 22: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 30 sts
Change to CC1.
Rnd 23: Dc around.
Rnd 24: Working in BLO, dc around.
Rnd 25: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnd 26: [5 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 42 sts
Rnds 27-28: Dc around.
Rnd 29: [6 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 48 sts
Rnd 30: Dc around.
Rnd 31: [6 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 42 sts
Rnd 32: Dc around.
Rnd 33: [5 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnd 34: Dc around.
Rnd 35: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 36: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 37: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 38: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnd 39: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Fasten off and using tapestry needle, weave yarn tail through FLO of each stitch in last round, pull up to close hole and weave in end.
Ears - make 2
Rnd 1: With CC1 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in next st, 5 dc. 7 sts
Rnd 3: 2 dc in next st, 6 dc. 8 sts
Rnd 4: 2 dc in next st, 7 dc. 9 sts
Fasten off.
Rnd 1: With CC1 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in next st, 5 dc. 7 sts
Rnd 3: 2 dc in next st, 6 dc. 8 sts
Rnd 4: 2 dc in next st, 7 dc. 9 sts
Fasten off.
Outer Eyes - make 2
Rnd 1: With CC3 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Change to CC2.
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Fasten off.
Rnd 1: With CC3 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Change to CC2.
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Fasten off.
Inner Eyes - make 2
Rnd 1: With CC5 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around, join with sl st in beg dc. 12 sts
Fasten off.
Rnd 1: With CC5 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around, join with sl st in beg dc. 12 sts
Fasten off.
Pupils - make 2
Rnd 1: With CC6 and working into a magic ring, 4 dc, join with sl st in beg dc. 4 sts
Fasten off.
Rnd 1: With CC6 and working into a magic ring, 4 dc, join with sl st in beg dc. 4 sts
Fasten off.
Beak
Rnd 1: With CC5 and working into a magic ring, 4 dc. 4 sts
Rnd 2: [2 dc in next st, 1 dc] twice. 6 sts
Rnd 3: Dc around.
Fasten off.
Rnd 1: With CC5 and working into a magic ring, 4 dc. 4 sts
Rnd 2: [2 dc in next st, 1 dc] twice. 6 sts
Rnd 3: Dc around.
Fasten off.
Neck Ruff
Working with top of owl’s head facing towards you, attach CC4 in first unused front loop of Rnd 23.
Rnd 1: Working in unused front loops, dc around. 30 sts
Rnd 2: *[1 sl st, 1 htr, 1 tr, 1 htr] in next st, 1 sl st; rep from* around.
Fasten off.
Working with top of owl’s head facing towards you, attach CC4 in first unused front loop of Rnd 23.
Rnd 1: Working in unused front loops, dc around. 30 sts
Rnd 2: *[1 sl st, 1 htr, 1 tr, 1 htr] in next st, 1 sl st; rep from* around.
Fasten off.
Wings - make 2
Rnd 1: With CC2 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: [2 dc in next st] twice, 4 dc. 8 sts
Rnd 3: 1 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice, 5 dc. 10 sts
Rnd 4: 3 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice, 5 dc. 12 sts
Rnd 5: 5 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice, 5 dc. 14 sts
Rnd 6: 5 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice, 7 dc. 16 sts
Rnd 7: 7 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice, 7 dc. 18 sts
Rnd 8: 8 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice, 8 dc. 20 sts
Rnds 9-12: Dc around.
Rnd 13: 7 dc, 1 dc2tog, 1 dc, 1 dc2tog, 8 dc. 18 sts
Rnd 14: Dc around.
Rnd 15: 7 dc, 1 dc2tog, 1 dc, 1 dc2tog, 6 dc. 16 sts
Fasten off.
Rnd 1: With CC2 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: [2 dc in next st] twice, 4 dc. 8 sts
Rnd 3: 1 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice, 5 dc. 10 sts
Rnd 4: 3 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice, 5 dc. 12 sts
Rnd 5: 5 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice, 5 dc. 14 sts
Rnd 6: 5 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice, 7 dc. 16 sts
Rnd 7: 7 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice, 7 dc. 18 sts
Rnd 8: 8 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice, 8 dc. 20 sts
Rnds 9-12: Dc around.
Rnd 13: 7 dc, 1 dc2tog, 1 dc, 1 dc2tog, 8 dc. 18 sts
Rnd 14: Dc around.
Rnd 15: 7 dc, 1 dc2tog, 1 dc, 1 dc2tog, 6 dc. 16 sts
Fasten off.
Feet - make 2
Rnd 1: With CC3 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnds 3-4: Dc around.
Rnd 5: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 15 sts
Rnd 6: Dc around.
Rnd 7: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 12 sts
Rnd 8: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Fasten off and using tapestry needle, weave yarn tail through FLO of each stitch in last round, pull up to close hole, leaving long tail to sew foot to body later.
Rnd 1: With CC3 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnds 3-4: Dc around.
Rnd 5: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 15 sts
Rnd 6: Dc around.
Rnd 7: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 12 sts
Rnd 8: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Fasten off and using tapestry needle, weave yarn tail through FLO of each stitch in last round, pull up to close hole, leaving long tail to sew foot to body later.
Owl Right Side
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Owl Base
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Making Up
Using the photographs as a guide, pin the pieces together first, checking from all angles to make sure you’re happy with the positioning, then use the long yarn tails or a length of yarn with a tapestry needle to stitch the pieces together.
Starting with the Head, sew the Outer Eyes in place close together on one of the flat sides of the head, 2 rows above the top of the Neck Ruff. (Make sure you leave enough space to attach the Beak).
Sew the Inner Eyes on top of the Outer Eyes both off set towards the centre line of the face. Sew the Pupils on top of the Inner Eyes, again off set towards the centre.
Sew the Ears in place on top of the Head, their lower edge sitting roughly in line with the top of the Outer Eye.
Sew the Beak in place between the Eyes.
Sew the flattened Wings in place either side of the Body, with the curved edge facing towards the back. The front edge of the Wing should line up roughly with the outside edge of the Outer Eye.
Sew the Feet in place on the bottom of the Body, roughly in line with Rnd 3.
Using the photographs as a guide, pin the pieces together first, checking from all angles to make sure you’re happy with the positioning, then use the long yarn tails or a length of yarn with a tapestry needle to stitch the pieces together.
Starting with the Head, sew the Outer Eyes in place close together on one of the flat sides of the head, 2 rows above the top of the Neck Ruff. (Make sure you leave enough space to attach the Beak).
Sew the Inner Eyes on top of the Outer Eyes both off set towards the centre line of the face. Sew the Pupils on top of the Inner Eyes, again off set towards the centre.
Sew the Ears in place on top of the Head, their lower edge sitting roughly in line with the top of the Outer Eye.
Sew the Beak in place between the Eyes.
Sew the flattened Wings in place either side of the Body, with the curved edge facing towards the back. The front edge of the Wing should line up roughly with the outside edge of the Outer Eye.
Sew the Feet in place on the bottom of the Body, roughly in line with Rnd 3.
Embroidered Details
Using the photos as a guide, use CC1, CC3 and CC4 to embroider the lines of detail on the Owl’s chest.
Use CC3 to embroider the star detail on the Owl’s back and the tufts on its Ears.
Use CC5 to add the single stitch highlight on the Pupils.
All done!
Using the photos as a guide, use CC1, CC3 and CC4 to embroider the lines of detail on the Owl’s chest.
Use CC3 to embroider the star detail on the Owl’s back and the tufts on its Ears.
Use CC5 to add the single stitch highlight on the Pupils.
All done!
Terms of Use
I am happy for you to donate, gift or sell any of the my crochet chums you make if you are an individual crafter - please credit mycrochetchums.com as the designer.
If you do wish to sell your my crochet chums, it is your responsibility to ensure that the finished item complies with the relevant toy legislation in your country.
Please be sure to use toy grade stuffing and do not add buttons, bells, ribbons etc that could be a danger to small children.
The patterns are copyright protected and are not for commercial use. They cannot be sold, transmitted, distributed or reproduced in any form or by any means. I’ve worked hard to create the designs - please don’t sell my patterns - it’s just plain mean!
I am happy for you to donate, gift or sell any of the my crochet chums you make if you are an individual crafter - please credit mycrochetchums.com as the designer.
If you do wish to sell your my crochet chums, it is your responsibility to ensure that the finished item complies with the relevant toy legislation in your country.
Please be sure to use toy grade stuffing and do not add buttons, bells, ribbons etc that could be a danger to small children.
The patterns are copyright protected and are not for commercial use. They cannot be sold, transmitted, distributed or reproduced in any form or by any means. I’ve worked hard to create the designs - please don’t sell my patterns - it’s just plain mean!
About mycrochetchums
I started mycrochetchums at the end of 2020 to give me something to focus on during lockdown and to make creative use of a box of Aldi Amigurumi Yarn that was an impulse purchase I was feeling guilty about!
I’m loving creating these cute characters and sharpening my tech skills in the process as I wrangle with managing a website and social media.
Check out the mycrochetchums Facebook page - drop me a message there if you have any feedback about the pattern or would like to share a picture of the end result.
You can also find me on Instagram @mycrochetchums.
If you have any questions about any of my patterns (or any other ami you may be working on) please email me at: [email protected] - I’ll do my best to help!
Happy Crocheting!
Pia x
©PIA SIMPSON/ MYCROCHETCHUMS 2021
I started mycrochetchums at the end of 2020 to give me something to focus on during lockdown and to make creative use of a box of Aldi Amigurumi Yarn that was an impulse purchase I was feeling guilty about!
I’m loving creating these cute characters and sharpening my tech skills in the process as I wrangle with managing a website and social media.
Check out the mycrochetchums Facebook page - drop me a message there if you have any feedback about the pattern or would like to share a picture of the end result.
You can also find me on Instagram @mycrochetchums.
If you have any questions about any of my patterns (or any other ami you may be working on) please email me at: [email protected] - I’ll do my best to help!
Happy Crocheting!
Pia x
©PIA SIMPSON/ MYCROCHETCHUMS 2021
