#lockdownamichallenge - No 3 - Monkey
#lockdownamichallenge No 3 Monkey
Scroll down the page for more pics of this cheeky fella!
Yarn Used
Aldi So Crafty Knit & Purl Amigurumi Yarn - described on the box as "Light" - Equivalent to DK
30g approx Teal (MC)
20g approx Pale Grey (CC1) for eyes, snout, hands, feet, tail, ear and belly patch.
5g approx Sky Blue (CC2) for ears, tail and belly patch.
Small amount of Black (CC3) for eyes, claws and facial features.
Small amount of Purple (CC4) for Hat.
Small amount of Pink (CC5) for Hat brim and bobble.
20g approx Pale Grey (CC1) for eyes, snout, hands, feet, tail, ear and belly patch.
5g approx Sky Blue (CC2) for ears, tail and belly patch.
Small amount of Black (CC3) for eyes, claws and facial features.
Small amount of Purple (CC4) for Hat.
Small amount of Pink (CC5) for Hat brim and bobble.
100% Cotton
25g = 57.5m
A cotton yarn works well for Ami as it gives good stitch definition and creates a firm structure so body parts hold their shape well.
25g = 57.5m
A cotton yarn works well for Ami as it gives good stitch definition and creates a firm structure so body parts hold their shape well.
Hook
3mm
3mm
Tension
Tension is not critical for this project but stitches should be tight enough to avoid stuffing showing through.
Tension is not critical for this project but stitches should be tight enough to avoid stuffing showing through.
Other Supplies
yarn needle
toy stuffing
stitch marker/waste yarn.
yarn needle
toy stuffing
stitch marker/waste yarn.
Sizing
25 cm approx from top of hat to bottom of feet
25 cm approx from top of hat to bottom of feet
Pattern Notes
Unless otherwise specified this pattern is worked in the amigurumi style, in a spiral without slip stitching or turning chains.
Use a stitch marker or waste yarn to keep track of the first stitch of each round.
The monkey is made of multiple separate pieces sewn together.Unless otherwise stated, finish each piece by pulling the yarn through the last loop and leave a long tail for sewing. Any loose tails at the end can be easily woven in.
With pieces that start with a chain and have additional chains within the round, these are not counted in the total stitch count for that round.
The Belly Patch is made in Joined Rounds to avoid a step/jag when you change colour - instructions for joining the rounds are in the Belly Patch section of the pattern.
Unless otherwise specified this pattern is worked in the amigurumi style, in a spiral without slip stitching or turning chains.
Use a stitch marker or waste yarn to keep track of the first stitch of each round.
The monkey is made of multiple separate pieces sewn together.Unless otherwise stated, finish each piece by pulling the yarn through the last loop and leave a long tail for sewing. Any loose tails at the end can be easily woven in.
With pieces that start with a chain and have additional chains within the round, these are not counted in the total stitch count for that round.
The Belly Patch is made in Joined Rounds to avoid a step/jag when you change colour - instructions for joining the rounds are in the Belly Patch section of the pattern.
Abbreviations used in this pattern - UK Crochet Terms
This pattern is written using UK Crochet Terms - they are NOT the same as US ones - please familiarise yourself with the UK terms to avoid your character’s shape distorting!
The “dc” abbreviation used in this pattern refers to UK double crochet. The equivalent stitch in US terms is single crochet - if you are used to US patterns you need to work single crochet everywhere this pattern says “dc”. If you work US dc (equivalent to UK Treble) the finished item will be elongated and the stuffing will show through. Similarly, the "htr" abbreviation used here refers to UK half treble crochet. The equivalent stitch in US terms is half double crochet - US Crocheters need to work half double crochet everywhere this pattern says "htr".
The “dc” abbreviation used in this pattern refers to UK double crochet. The equivalent stitch in US terms is single crochet - if you are used to US patterns you need to work single crochet everywhere this pattern says “dc”. If you work US dc (equivalent to UK Treble) the finished item will be elongated and the stuffing will show through. Similarly, the "htr" abbreviation used here refers to UK half treble crochet. The equivalent stitch in US terms is half double crochet - US Crocheters need to work half double crochet everywhere this pattern says "htr".
If any of the abbreviations used in this pattern are unfamiliar, you can find a chart of UK Terms HERE.
This pattern uses UK Terms -if you are used to working in US Crochet Terms you can find a conversion chart HERE.
This pattern uses UK Terms -if you are used to working in US Crochet Terms you can find a conversion chart HERE.
Increasing and decreasing
The “invisible” techniques below are recommended to give your amigurumi a neat finish:
The “invisible” techniques below are recommended to give your amigurumi a neat finish:
Invisible Increase: Work 1 dc in FLO of next st and 1 dc in both loops of same st.
Invisible decrease: Insert hook in FLO of the two stitches to be decreased, yrh, pull through both front loops, yrh, draw through two loops on hook.
Invisible decrease: Insert hook in FLO of the two stitches to be decreased, yrh, pull through both front loops, yrh, draw through two loops on hook.
Changing Colour
Change colour on the last yrh of the last st of the previous round.
Change colour on the last yrh of the last st of the previous round.
Monkey - Left Side
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Monkey - Rear
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Monkey - Right Side
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Time to start crocheting!
Body
Rnd 1: With MC and working in a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24sts
Rnd 5: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 6: Dc around.
Rnd 7: [4dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnds 8-11: Dc around.
Rnd 12: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnds 13-15: Dc around.
Rnd 16: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnds 17-19: Dc around.
Rnd 20: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 21: Dc around.
Fasten off. Stuff body.
Rnd 1: With MC and working in a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24sts
Rnd 5: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 6: Dc around.
Rnd 7: [4dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnds 8-11: Dc around.
Rnd 12: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnds 13-15: Dc around.
Rnd 16: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnds 17-19: Dc around.
Rnd 20: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 21: Dc around.
Fasten off. Stuff body.
Head
Stuff the head as you go. If you're flummoxed by the first two rounds -there's a photo tutorial HERE
With MC, chain 4.
Rnd 1: Starting in 2nd ch from hook, 3 dc, 2 ch, rotating as you go, work in the other side of the chain, 3 dc, 2 ch. 6 sts
Rnd 2: [3 dc, 3 dc in the 2 ch-sp ] twice. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [2 dc in next st, 1 dc] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: 1 dc, [2 dc in next st, 2 dc] 5 times, 2 dc in next st, 1 dc. 24sts
Rnd 5: 2 dc, [2 dc in next st, 3 dc] 5 times, 2 dc in next st, 1 dc. 30 sts
Rnd 6: 4 dc, [2 dc in next st, 4 dc] 5 times, 2 dc in next st. 36 sts
Rnd 7: [2 dc in next st, 5 dc] 6 times. 42 sts
Rnds 8-11: Dc around.
Rnd 12: [1 dc2tog, 5 dc] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnds 13-14: Dc around.
Rnd 15: 1 dc, [1 dc2tog, 4 dc] 5 times, 1 dc2tog, 3 dc. 30 sts
Rnd 16: 1 dc, [1 dc2tog, 3 dc] 5 times, 1 dc2tog, 2 dc. 24 sts
Rnd 17: [1 dc2tog, 2 dc] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 18: [1 dc2tog, 1 dc] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnd 19: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Fasten off, weave in end.
Stuff the head as you go. If you're flummoxed by the first two rounds -there's a photo tutorial HERE
With MC, chain 4.
Rnd 1: Starting in 2nd ch from hook, 3 dc, 2 ch, rotating as you go, work in the other side of the chain, 3 dc, 2 ch. 6 sts
Rnd 2: [3 dc, 3 dc in the 2 ch-sp ] twice. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [2 dc in next st, 1 dc] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: 1 dc, [2 dc in next st, 2 dc] 5 times, 2 dc in next st, 1 dc. 24sts
Rnd 5: 2 dc, [2 dc in next st, 3 dc] 5 times, 2 dc in next st, 1 dc. 30 sts
Rnd 6: 4 dc, [2 dc in next st, 4 dc] 5 times, 2 dc in next st. 36 sts
Rnd 7: [2 dc in next st, 5 dc] 6 times. 42 sts
Rnds 8-11: Dc around.
Rnd 12: [1 dc2tog, 5 dc] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnds 13-14: Dc around.
Rnd 15: 1 dc, [1 dc2tog, 4 dc] 5 times, 1 dc2tog, 3 dc. 30 sts
Rnd 16: 1 dc, [1 dc2tog, 3 dc] 5 times, 1 dc2tog, 2 dc. 24 sts
Rnd 17: [1 dc2tog, 2 dc] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 18: [1 dc2tog, 1 dc] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnd 19: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Fasten off, weave in end.
Eye Patch - make 2
If you're flummoxed by the first two rounds -there's a photo tutorial HERE.
With CC1, chain 4
Rnd 1: Starting in 2nd ch from hook, 3 dc, 2 ch, rotating as you go, work in the other side of the chain, 3 dc, 2 ch. 6 sts
Rnd 2: [3 dc, 3 dc in the 2 ch-sp ] twice. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [5 dc, 2 dc in next st] twice. 14 sts
Fasten off.
If you're flummoxed by the first two rounds -there's a photo tutorial HERE.
With CC1, chain 4
Rnd 1: Starting in 2nd ch from hook, 3 dc, 2 ch, rotating as you go, work in the other side of the chain, 3 dc, 2 ch. 6 sts
Rnd 2: [3 dc, 3 dc in the 2 ch-sp ] twice. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [5 dc, 2 dc in next st] twice. 14 sts
Fasten off.
Eye - make 2
Rnd 1: With CC3 and working in a magic ring, 4 dc. 4 sts
Join with a slip st into top of first dc.
Fasten off.
Rnd 1: With CC3 and working in a magic ring, 4 dc. 4 sts
Join with a slip st into top of first dc.
Fasten off.
Muzzle
With CC1, chain 5.
Rnd 1: Starting in 2nd ch from hook, 4 dc, 2 ch, rotating as you go, work in the other side of the chain, 4 dc, 2 ch. 8 sts
Rnd 2: [4 dc, 3 dc in 2 ch-sp] twice. 14 sts
Rnd 3: [2 dc in next st, 4 dc, 2 dc in next st, 1 dc] twice. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc in next st, 6 dc, 2 dc in next st, I dc] twice. 22 sts
Rnd 5: [2 dc in next st, 8 dc, 2 dc in next st, 1 dc] twice. 26 sts
Fasten off. Stuff the muzzle.
With CC1, chain 5.
Rnd 1: Starting in 2nd ch from hook, 4 dc, 2 ch, rotating as you go, work in the other side of the chain, 4 dc, 2 ch. 8 sts
Rnd 2: [4 dc, 3 dc in 2 ch-sp] twice. 14 sts
Rnd 3: [2 dc in next st, 4 dc, 2 dc in next st, 1 dc] twice. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc in next st, 6 dc, 2 dc in next st, I dc] twice. 22 sts
Rnd 5: [2 dc in next st, 8 dc, 2 dc in next st, 1 dc] twice. 26 sts
Fasten off. Stuff the muzzle.
Inner Ear - make 2
Make the Inner Ear before the Outer Ear.
Rnd 1: With CC2 and working into a magic ring, 4dc, pull ring tightly closed, turn. 4sts
Row 2: 1 ch, 2 dc in each st, turn. 8sts
Change colour to CC1.
Row 3: 1 ch, [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 4 times, turn. 12 sts
Row 4: 1 ch, Dc across.
Fasten off, weave in ends.
Make the Inner Ear before the Outer Ear.
Rnd 1: With CC2 and working into a magic ring, 4dc, pull ring tightly closed, turn. 4sts
Row 2: 1 ch, 2 dc in each st, turn. 8sts
Change colour to CC1.
Row 3: 1 ch, [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 4 times, turn. 12 sts
Row 4: 1 ch, Dc across.
Fasten off, weave in ends.
Outer Ear - make 2
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 4dc, pull ring tightly closed, turn. 4sts
Row 2: 1 ch, 2 dc in each st, turn. 8sts
Row 3: 1 ch, [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 4 times, turn. 12 sts
Row 4: 1 ch, Dc across, turn.
Sandwich the Inner and Outer Ear together and work the following row through the top of the Row 4 stitches on both pieces to join.
Row 5: 1 ch, 2 dc in each st, across. 24 sts
Fasten off.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 4dc, pull ring tightly closed, turn. 4sts
Row 2: 1 ch, 2 dc in each st, turn. 8sts
Row 3: 1 ch, [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 4 times, turn. 12 sts
Row 4: 1 ch, Dc across, turn.
Sandwich the Inner and Outer Ear together and work the following row through the top of the Row 4 stitches on both pieces to join.
Row 5: 1 ch, 2 dc in each st, across. 24 sts
Fasten off.
Belly Patch
Worked in joined rounds, join each rnd with sl st in BLO of beginning dc then work first st of next rnd into both loops of same dc as join.
Rnd 1: With CC2 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc, join in BLO. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around, join. 12 sts
Change to CC 1.
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times, join. 18 sts
Change to CC2.
Rnd 4: [2dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times, join. 24 sts
Rnd 5: [3dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times, join. 30 sts
Change to CC1.
Rnd 6: Dc around.
Fasten off.
Worked in joined rounds, join each rnd with sl st in BLO of beginning dc then work first st of next rnd into both loops of same dc as join.
Rnd 1: With CC2 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc, join in BLO. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around, join. 12 sts
Change to CC 1.
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times, join. 18 sts
Change to CC2.
Rnd 4: [2dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times, join. 24 sts
Rnd 5: [3dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times, join. 30 sts
Change to CC1.
Rnd 6: Dc around.
Fasten off.
Hand with Arm - make 2
Stuff hand before you change colour. Lightly stuff arm.
If you're flummoxed by the first two rounds -there's a photo tutorial HERE
With CC1, chain 5.
Rnd 1: Starting in 2nd ch from hook, 4 dc, 2 ch, rotating as you go, work in the other side of the chain, 4 dc, 2 ch. 8 sts
Rnd 2: [4dc, 2 dc in 2 ch sp] 2 times. 12 sts
Rnds 3-4: Dc around.
Rnd 5: [4dc 1 dc2tog] 2 times. 10 sts
Rnd 6: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 2 times. 8 sts
Change colour to MC. Stuff hand lightly.
Rnds 7-11: Dc around.
Rnd 12: 1 dc2tog, 6 dc. 7sts
Rnds 13-16: Dc around.
Fasten off.
Stuff hand before you change colour. Lightly stuff arm.
If you're flummoxed by the first two rounds -there's a photo tutorial HERE
With CC1, chain 5.
Rnd 1: Starting in 2nd ch from hook, 4 dc, 2 ch, rotating as you go, work in the other side of the chain, 4 dc, 2 ch. 8 sts
Rnd 2: [4dc, 2 dc in 2 ch sp] 2 times. 12 sts
Rnds 3-4: Dc around.
Rnd 5: [4dc 1 dc2tog] 2 times. 10 sts
Rnd 6: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 2 times. 8 sts
Change colour to MC. Stuff hand lightly.
Rnds 7-11: Dc around.
Rnd 12: 1 dc2tog, 6 dc. 7sts
Rnds 13-16: Dc around.
Fasten off.
Foot and Leg- make 2
Rnd 1: With CC1 and working in a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [2 dc in next st, 2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [ 2 dc in next st, 4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: 7dc, 1 dc2tog, 6 dc, 1 dc2 tog, 7 dc. 22 sts
Rnd 6: [6 dc, 1 dc2tog,] twice, 6 dc. 20 sts
Rnd 7: [4dc, 2 dc2tog] twice, 4 dc. 16 sts
Rnd 8: 3 dc, 2 dc2tog, I dc, 2 dc2tog, 4 dc. 12 sts
Rnd 9: 3 dc, 1 dc2tog, 2 dc, 1 dc2tog, 3 dc. 10 sts
Change colour to MC. Stuff foot.
Rnds 10-11: Dc around.
Rnd 12: 1 dc2tog, 8 dc. 9 sts
Rnd 13: Dc around.
Rnd 14: 1 dc2tog, 7 dc. 8sts
Rnds 15-16: Dc around.
Place stitch marker at end of Rnd 16.
Rnd 17: 1 dc2tog, 6 dc. 7 sts
Rnds 18 - 24: Dc around.
Rnd 25: 3 dc.
Fasten off.
Rnd 1: With CC1 and working in a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [2 dc in next st, 2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [ 2 dc in next st, 4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: 7dc, 1 dc2tog, 6 dc, 1 dc2 tog, 7 dc. 22 sts
Rnd 6: [6 dc, 1 dc2tog,] twice, 6 dc. 20 sts
Rnd 7: [4dc, 2 dc2tog] twice, 4 dc. 16 sts
Rnd 8: 3 dc, 2 dc2tog, I dc, 2 dc2tog, 4 dc. 12 sts
Rnd 9: 3 dc, 1 dc2tog, 2 dc, 1 dc2tog, 3 dc. 10 sts
Change colour to MC. Stuff foot.
Rnds 10-11: Dc around.
Rnd 12: 1 dc2tog, 8 dc. 9 sts
Rnd 13: Dc around.
Rnd 14: 1 dc2tog, 7 dc. 8sts
Rnds 15-16: Dc around.
Place stitch marker at end of Rnd 16.
Rnd 17: 1 dc2tog, 6 dc. 7 sts
Rnds 18 - 24: Dc around.
Rnd 25: 3 dc.
Fasten off.
Stuff the leg lightly up to the stitch marker. Using a length of MC with a yarn needle, sew through both thicknesses of the flattened leg at the level of the stitch marker, creating a seam parallel to the front edge of the foot, closing the bottom half of the leg off from the top to create the bendable knee. Weave in ends.
Lightly stuff the top half of the leg.
Lightly stuff the top half of the leg.
Tail
To create the curve in the tail give yourself a starting tail of approx 20cm (8 in) before you make the magic ring - this will be used at the end of Rnd 23 to pull the tail into a curve. Keep the yarn tail on the inside as you crochet so it sits loosely in the “tube” of the Monkey tail. Do not stuff.
Rnd 1: With CC1 and working into a magic ring, 5dc. 5 sts
Rnds 2-3: Dc around.
Change colour to CC2.
Rnds 4-6: Dc around.
Change to CC1.
Rnds 7-9: Dc around.
Change colour to MC.
Rnds 10-14: Dc around.
Rnd 15: 2 dc in the next st, 4 dc. 6sts
Rnds 16-23: Dc around.
Fasten off leaving a long yarn tail. Take the starting yarn tail and pull on it so that the monkey’s tail curves round into a “C” shape. Secure it by knotting it to the finishing yarn tail by the last stitch of Rnd 23. Weave the starting yarn tail in, but leave the finishing yarn tail long to sew the monkey tail onto the body later.
To create the curve in the tail give yourself a starting tail of approx 20cm (8 in) before you make the magic ring - this will be used at the end of Rnd 23 to pull the tail into a curve. Keep the yarn tail on the inside as you crochet so it sits loosely in the “tube” of the Monkey tail. Do not stuff.
Rnd 1: With CC1 and working into a magic ring, 5dc. 5 sts
Rnds 2-3: Dc around.
Change colour to CC2.
Rnds 4-6: Dc around.
Change to CC1.
Rnds 7-9: Dc around.
Change colour to MC.
Rnds 10-14: Dc around.
Rnd 15: 2 dc in the next st, 4 dc. 6sts
Rnds 16-23: Dc around.
Fasten off leaving a long yarn tail. Take the starting yarn tail and pull on it so that the monkey’s tail curves round into a “C” shape. Secure it by knotting it to the finishing yarn tail by the last stitch of Rnd 23. Weave the starting yarn tail in, but leave the finishing yarn tail long to sew the monkey tail onto the body later.
Hat
Rnd 1: With CC4 and working into a magic ring, 4dc. 4 sts
Rnd 2: [2 dc in next st, 1 dc] twice. 6 sts
Rnd 3: [2 dc in next st, 1 dc] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc in next st, 2 dc] 3 times. 12 sts
Rnd 5: Dc around.
Rnd 6: [2 dc in next st, 3 dc] 3 times. 15 sts
Rnd 7: Dc around.
Change colour to CC5.
Rnd 8: Dc around, turn.
Rnd 9: Working in BLO for the whole round:1ch, [2 dc in next st, 4 dc] 3 times, sl st in first dc of rnd to join. 18 sts
Fasten off and stuff.
Rnd 1: With CC4 and working into a magic ring, 4dc. 4 sts
Rnd 2: [2 dc in next st, 1 dc] twice. 6 sts
Rnd 3: [2 dc in next st, 1 dc] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc in next st, 2 dc] 3 times. 12 sts
Rnd 5: Dc around.
Rnd 6: [2 dc in next st, 3 dc] 3 times. 15 sts
Rnd 7: Dc around.
Change colour to CC5.
Rnd 8: Dc around, turn.
Rnd 9: Working in BLO for the whole round:1ch, [2 dc in next st, 4 dc] 3 times, sl st in first dc of rnd to join. 18 sts
Fasten off and stuff.
Pom Pom
Rnd 1: With CC5 and working into a magic ring, 6dc. 6sts
Rnds 2-3: Dc around.
Fasten off, weave yarn tail through last 6 sts and pull tightly to close, creating a ball shape - sew onto top of hat.
Rnd 1: With CC5 and working into a magic ring, 6dc. 6sts
Rnds 2-3: Dc around.
Fasten off, weave yarn tail through last 6 sts and pull tightly to close, creating a ball shape - sew onto top of hat.
Making up.
Using the photographs as a guide, pin the pieces together first, working in the following order and using the long yarn tails or a length of yarn with a yarn needle to stitch the pieces together.
Start with the head:
Sew the Eye Patches in place, with the top of them roughly in line with Rnd 17 of the Head.
Sew the Muzzle over the bottom of the Eye Patches - with the bottom of the muzzle roughly in line with Rnd 6 of the Head.
Sew the Eyes over the EyePatches in line with the top seam of the Muzzle.
Sew the Ears in place and the Hat at an angle on top of the head.
Attach the Body to the Head and the Belly Patch in place - with the bottom of it roughly in line with Rnd 6 of the body.
Stitch the Arms in place as shown in the photo attaching them approx 2 rows down from the neck/head join.
Attach the Legs to the body as shown in the photos.
Attach the Tail to the back of the Body in line with Rnd 8 approx.
Using the photographs as a guide, pin the pieces together first, working in the following order and using the long yarn tails or a length of yarn with a yarn needle to stitch the pieces together.
Start with the head:
Sew the Eye Patches in place, with the top of them roughly in line with Rnd 17 of the Head.
Sew the Muzzle over the bottom of the Eye Patches - with the bottom of the muzzle roughly in line with Rnd 6 of the Head.
Sew the Eyes over the EyePatches in line with the top seam of the Muzzle.
Sew the Ears in place and the Hat at an angle on top of the head.
Attach the Body to the Head and the Belly Patch in place - with the bottom of it roughly in line with Rnd 6 of the body.
Stitch the Arms in place as shown in the photo attaching them approx 2 rows down from the neck/head join.
Attach the Legs to the body as shown in the photos.
Attach the Tail to the back of the Body in line with Rnd 8 approx.
Monkey - Facial Detail
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Foot Top - Toes & Claws
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Hott & Hand - embroidered detail
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Embroidered details.
Using CC1 whip stitch over the ends of the hands and feet, pulling the yarn up tightly to create the “fingers” and “toes”.
Use CC3 to add the claws on each and to embroider the facial details.
Finally, use CC1 embroider the highlight in the eyes.
Using CC1 whip stitch over the ends of the hands and feet, pulling the yarn up tightly to create the “fingers” and “toes”.
Use CC3 to add the claws on each and to embroider the facial details.
Finally, use CC1 embroider the highlight in the eyes.
Terms of Use
I am happy for you to donate, gift or sell any of the my crochet chums you make if you are an individual crafter - please credit mycrochetchums.weebly.com as the designer.
If you do wish to sell your my crochet chums, it is your responsibility to ensure that the finished item complies with the relevant toy legislation in your country.
Please be sure to use toy grade stuffing and do not add buttons, bells, ribbons etc that could be a danger to small children.
The patterns are copyright protected and are not for commercial use. They cannot be sold, transmitted, distributed or reproduced in any form or by any means. I’ve worked hard to create the designs - please don’t sell my patterns - it’s just plain mean!
© Pia Simpson My Crochet Chums 2020
I am happy for you to donate, gift or sell any of the my crochet chums you make if you are an individual crafter - please credit mycrochetchums.weebly.com as the designer.
If you do wish to sell your my crochet chums, it is your responsibility to ensure that the finished item complies with the relevant toy legislation in your country.
Please be sure to use toy grade stuffing and do not add buttons, bells, ribbons etc that could be a danger to small children.
The patterns are copyright protected and are not for commercial use. They cannot be sold, transmitted, distributed or reproduced in any form or by any means. I’ve worked hard to create the designs - please don’t sell my patterns - it’s just plain mean!
© Pia Simpson My Crochet Chums 2020
