#lockdownamichallenge - No 29 - Zebra
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Yarn
Aldi So Crafty Knit & Purl Amigurumi Yarn - described on the box as "Light" - Equivalent to DK.
25g approx of White (MC) for Head, Body, Legs, Ears, Tail.
15g approx of Purple (CC1) for Stripes, Mane, Nose, Hoof, Tail.
10g approx of Pink (CC2) for Stripes, Hoof and Tail.
10g approx of Orange (CC3) for Stripes, Hoof and Tail.
10 g approx of Yellow (CC4) for Stripes and Inner Ear.
10 g approx of Green (CC5) for Stripes, Hoof, Inner Ear and Tail.
Small amount of Black (CC6) for Eyes.
100% Cotton 25g = 57.5m
A cotton yarn works well for Ami as it gives good stitch definition and creates a firm structure so body parts hold their shape well. Any cotton/cotton mix DK should give similar results.
Aldi So Crafty Knit & Purl Amigurumi Yarn - described on the box as "Light" - Equivalent to DK.
25g approx of White (MC) for Head, Body, Legs, Ears, Tail.
15g approx of Purple (CC1) for Stripes, Mane, Nose, Hoof, Tail.
10g approx of Pink (CC2) for Stripes, Hoof and Tail.
10g approx of Orange (CC3) for Stripes, Hoof and Tail.
10 g approx of Yellow (CC4) for Stripes and Inner Ear.
10 g approx of Green (CC5) for Stripes, Hoof, Inner Ear and Tail.
Small amount of Black (CC6) for Eyes.
100% Cotton 25g = 57.5m
A cotton yarn works well for Ami as it gives good stitch definition and creates a firm structure so body parts hold their shape well. Any cotton/cotton mix DK should give similar results.
Hook
3 mm
3 mm
Tension
Tension is not critical for this project but stitches should be tight enough to avoid stuffing showing through.
Tension is not critical for this project but stitches should be tight enough to avoid stuffing showing through.
Other Supplies
Yarn needle, toy stuffing, stitch marker/waste yarn.
Yarn needle, toy stuffing, stitch marker/waste yarn.
Size
Approx 23cm (9in) tall.
Approx 23cm (9in) tall.
Pattern Notes
Unless otherwise specified this pattern is worked in the amigurumi style, in a continuous spiral without slip stitching or turning chains.
Use a stitch marker or waste yarn to keep track of the first stitch of each round.
If you do not want to make a Magic Ring you can start each piece by making a chain of 2 and then work the first round into the second chain from the hook.
If you would like to start with a Magic Ring but don’t know how, you can find a Photo Tutorial HERE.
The Zebra is made of multiple separate pieces sewn together. Unless otherwise stated, finish each piece by pulling the yarn through the last loop and leave a long tail for sewing. Any loose tails at the end can be easily woven in.
Unless otherwise specified this pattern is worked in the amigurumi style, in a continuous spiral without slip stitching or turning chains.
Use a stitch marker or waste yarn to keep track of the first stitch of each round.
If you do not want to make a Magic Ring you can start each piece by making a chain of 2 and then work the first round into the second chain from the hook.
If you would like to start with a Magic Ring but don’t know how, you can find a Photo Tutorial HERE.
The Zebra is made of multiple separate pieces sewn together. Unless otherwise stated, finish each piece by pulling the yarn through the last loop and leave a long tail for sewing. Any loose tails at the end can be easily woven in.
Increasing and decreasing
The “invisible” techniques below are recommended to give your amigurumi a neat finish:
Invisible Increase: Work 1 dc in FLO of next st and 1 dc in both loops of same st.
Invisible decrease: Insert hook in FLO of the two stitches to be decreased, yrh, pull through both front loops, yrh, draw through two loops on hook.
The “invisible” techniques below are recommended to give your amigurumi a neat finish:
Invisible Increase: Work 1 dc in FLO of next st and 1 dc in both loops of same st.
Invisible decrease: Insert hook in FLO of the two stitches to be decreased, yrh, pull through both front loops, yrh, draw through two loops on hook.
UK Crochet Terms - Abbreviations
This pattern is written using UK Crochet Terms - they are NOT the same as US ones - please familiarise yourself with the UK terms to avoid your character’s shape distorting!
The “dc” abbreviation used in this pattern refers to UK double crochet. The equivalent stitch in US terms is single crochet - if you are used to US patterns you need to work single crochet everywhere this pattern says “dc”. If you work US dc (equivalent to UK Treble) the finished item will be elongated and the stuffing will show through. Similarly, the "htr" abbreviation used here refers to UK half treble crochet. The equivalent stitch in US terms is half double crochet - US Crocheters need to work half double crochet everywhere this pattern says "htr".
This pattern is written using UK Crochet Terms - they are NOT the same as US ones - please familiarise yourself with the UK terms to avoid your character’s shape distorting!
The “dc” abbreviation used in this pattern refers to UK double crochet. The equivalent stitch in US terms is single crochet - if you are used to US patterns you need to work single crochet everywhere this pattern says “dc”. If you work US dc (equivalent to UK Treble) the finished item will be elongated and the stuffing will show through. Similarly, the "htr" abbreviation used here refers to UK half treble crochet. The equivalent stitch in US terms is half double crochet - US Crocheters need to work half double crochet everywhere this pattern says "htr".
If you are used to working in US Crochet Terms you can find a conversion chart HERE.
If you are unfamiliar with any of the terms used in this pattern, you can find a chart of the UK Crochet terms used HERE.
If you are unfamiliar with any of the terms used in this pattern, you can find a chart of the UK Crochet terms used HERE.
Zebra Front Right
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Zebra Back Left
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Head
Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With CC1 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnds 6-8: Dc around.
Rnd 9: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Change to MC.
Rnds 10-11: Dc around.
Change to CC2.
Rnd 12: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 13: Dc around.
Change to MC.
Rnd 14: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnds 15-16: Dc around.
Rnd 17: [5 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 42 sts
Change to CC3.
Rnds 18-19: Dc around.
Change to MC.
Rnd 20: Dc around.
Rnd 21: [5 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 36 sts
Change to CC4.
Rnd 22: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 23: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Change to MC.
Rnd 24: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 25: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnd 26: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Fasten off, weave in end.
Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With CC1 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnds 6-8: Dc around.
Rnd 9: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Change to MC.
Rnds 10-11: Dc around.
Change to CC2.
Rnd 12: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 13: Dc around.
Change to MC.
Rnd 14: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnds 15-16: Dc around.
Rnd 17: [5 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 42 sts
Change to CC3.
Rnds 18-19: Dc around.
Change to MC.
Rnd 20: Dc around.
Rnd 21: [5 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 36 sts
Change to CC4.
Rnd 22: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 23: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Change to MC.
Rnd 24: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 25: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnd 26: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Fasten off, weave in end.
Body
Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With CC1 and working in a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Change to MC.
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Change to CC4.
Rnd 5: [3dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 6: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts
Change to MC.
Rnds 7-8: Dc around.
Change to CC2.
Rnd 9: [5 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 42 sts
Rnd 10: Dc around.
Change to MC.
Rnd 11: [5 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnd 12: Dc around.
Change to CC5.
Rnd 13: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 14: Dc around.
Change to MC.
Rnds 15-16: Dc around.
Change to CC1.
Rnd 17: Dc around.
Rnd 18: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Change to MC.
Rnds 19-20: Dc around.
Change to CC3.
Rnd 21: Dc around.
Rnd 22: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Change to MC.
Rnds 23-24: Dc around.
Fasten off.
Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With CC1 and working in a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Change to MC.
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Change to CC4.
Rnd 5: [3dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 6: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts
Change to MC.
Rnds 7-8: Dc around.
Change to CC2.
Rnd 9: [5 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 42 sts
Rnd 10: Dc around.
Change to MC.
Rnd 11: [5 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnd 12: Dc around.
Change to CC5.
Rnd 13: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 14: Dc around.
Change to MC.
Rnds 15-16: Dc around.
Change to CC1.
Rnd 17: Dc around.
Rnd 18: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Change to MC.
Rnds 19-20: Dc around.
Change to CC3.
Rnd 21: Dc around.
Rnd 22: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Change to MC.
Rnds 23-24: Dc around.
Fasten off.
Leg - make 4
Each Leg has a different colour way - these are indicated by the letters A, B, C and D. Follow the colour changes for the Leg you are working on.
Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With A:CC1/ B:CC5/ C:CC1/ D:CC3 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [2 dc in next st, 2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: Dc around in BLO.
Rnd 5: Dc around.
Rnd 6: [1 dc2tog, 2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 12 sts
Rnd 7: Dc around.
Change to MC.
Rnds 8-9: Dc around.
Change to A:CC4/ B:CC2/ C:CC3/ D:CC5.
Rnds 10-11: Dc around.
Change to MC.
Rnds 12-13: Dc around.
Change to A:CC5/ B:CC3/ C:CC2/ D:CC4.
Rnd 14: Dc around.
Rnd 15: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 9 sts
Change to MC.
Rnds 16-17: Dc around.
Fasten off.
Each Leg has a different colour way - these are indicated by the letters A, B, C and D. Follow the colour changes for the Leg you are working on.
Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With A:CC1/ B:CC5/ C:CC1/ D:CC3 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [2 dc in next st, 2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: Dc around in BLO.
Rnd 5: Dc around.
Rnd 6: [1 dc2tog, 2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 12 sts
Rnd 7: Dc around.
Change to MC.
Rnds 8-9: Dc around.
Change to A:CC4/ B:CC2/ C:CC3/ D:CC5.
Rnds 10-11: Dc around.
Change to MC.
Rnds 12-13: Dc around.
Change to A:CC5/ B:CC3/ C:CC2/ D:CC4.
Rnd 14: Dc around.
Rnd 15: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 9 sts
Change to MC.
Rnds 16-17: Dc around.
Fasten off.
Ear - make 2
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 4 dc. 4 sts
Rnd 2: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] twice. 6 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 12 sts
Rnd 5: Dc around.
Rnd 6: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 15 sts
Rnds 7-9: Dc around.
Rnd 10: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 12 sts
Rnd 11: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 9 sts
Fasten off.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 4 dc. 4 sts
Rnd 2: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] twice. 6 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 12 sts
Rnd 5: Dc around.
Rnd 6: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 15 sts
Rnds 7-9: Dc around.
Rnd 10: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 12 sts
Rnd 11: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 9 sts
Fasten off.
Inner Ear - make 2
Make one in CC4 and the other in CC5.
With CC4/CC5, chain 7.
Rnd 1: Starting in second ch from hook, *1 sl st, 1 dc, 2 htr, 1 dc, 1 sl st,** 1 ch; rep once more from * to **.
Fasten off.
Make one in CC4 and the other in CC5.
With CC4/CC5, chain 7.
Rnd 1: Starting in second ch from hook, *1 sl st, 1 dc, 2 htr, 1 dc, 1 sl st,** 1 ch; rep once more from * to **.
Fasten off.
Eye - make 2
Rnd 1: With CC6 and working into a magic ring, 4 dc, join with sl st into beg dc. 4 sts
Fasten off.
Rnd 1: With CC6 and working into a magic ring, 4 dc, join with sl st into beg dc. 4 sts
Fasten off.
Mane
With CC1, chain 21.
Row 1: Starting in second charm hook, 20 dc. Turn. 20 sts
Row 2: 1 ch, [1 sl st, 3 tr in next st, 1 sl st] 6 times, 2 sl st. 32 sts
Fasten off.
With CC1, chain 21.
Row 1: Starting in second charm hook, 20 dc. Turn. 20 sts
Row 2: 1 ch, [1 sl st, 3 tr in next st, 1 sl st] 6 times, 2 sl st. 32 sts
Fasten off.
Tail
Rnd 1: With CC1 and working into a magic ring, 4 dc. 4 sts
Rnd 2: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] twice. 6 sts
Rnd 3: Dc around.
Rnd 4: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] twice. 4 sts
Change to MC.
Rnds 5-6: Dc around.
Change to CC5.
Rnds 7-8: Dc around.
Change to MC.
Rnds 9-10: Dc around.
Change to CC2.
Rnds 11-12: Dc around.
Change to MC.
Rnds 13-14: Dc around.
Change to CC3.
Rnds 15-16: Dc around.
Change to MC.
Rnds 17-18: Dc around.
Fasten off.
Rnd 1: With CC1 and working into a magic ring, 4 dc. 4 sts
Rnd 2: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] twice. 6 sts
Rnd 3: Dc around.
Rnd 4: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] twice. 4 sts
Change to MC.
Rnds 5-6: Dc around.
Change to CC5.
Rnds 7-8: Dc around.
Change to MC.
Rnds 9-10: Dc around.
Change to CC2.
Rnds 11-12: Dc around.
Change to MC.
Rnds 13-14: Dc around.
Change to CC3.
Rnds 15-16: Dc around.
Change to MC.
Rnds 17-18: Dc around.
Fasten off.
Zebra Right Side
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Zebra Base
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Making Up
Using the photographs as a guide, pin the pieces together first, checking from all angles to make sure you’re happy with the positioning, then use the long yarn tails or a length of yarn with a yarn needle to stitch the pieces together.
Sew the Eyes in place roughly in line with Rnd 15 of the Head, spaced about 6 stitches apart.
Sew the Ears in place roughly in line with Rnd 20 of the Head, spaced about 10 stitches apart. Sew the Inner Ear inside the front of each Ear.
Sew the Mane in place, with the front end in line with Rnd 16 of the Head, sewing it down the centre line of the back of the head.
Sew the Body onto the base of the Head.
Sew the lower Legs to the base of the Body, roughly in line with Rnd 4 of the Body, set forward so the Zebra can sit on his bottom.
Sew the upper Legs, either side of the Body, roughly in line with Rnd 20 of the Body - looking from the side each should sit roughly in line with the Ears.
Sew the Tail in place, centred on the back of the Body, in line with Rnd 7 of the Body.
Using the photographs as a guide, pin the pieces together first, checking from all angles to make sure you’re happy with the positioning, then use the long yarn tails or a length of yarn with a yarn needle to stitch the pieces together.
Sew the Eyes in place roughly in line with Rnd 15 of the Head, spaced about 6 stitches apart.
Sew the Ears in place roughly in line with Rnd 20 of the Head, spaced about 10 stitches apart. Sew the Inner Ear inside the front of each Ear.
Sew the Mane in place, with the front end in line with Rnd 16 of the Head, sewing it down the centre line of the back of the head.
Sew the Body onto the base of the Head.
Sew the lower Legs to the base of the Body, roughly in line with Rnd 4 of the Body, set forward so the Zebra can sit on his bottom.
Sew the upper Legs, either side of the Body, roughly in line with Rnd 20 of the Body - looking from the side each should sit roughly in line with the Ears.
Sew the Tail in place, centred on the back of the Body, in line with Rnd 7 of the Body.
Zebra Face Detail
Embroidered Details
Using the photos as a guide, use MC to add the single stitch highlight to each eye and to embroider the mouth and the nostril crosses.
All Done!
Using the photos as a guide, use MC to add the single stitch highlight to each eye and to embroider the mouth and the nostril crosses.
All Done!
Terms of Use
I am happy for you to donate, gift or sell any of the my crochet chums you make if you are an individual crafter - please credit mycrochetchums.com as the designer.
If you do wish to sell your my crochet chums, it is your responsibility to ensure that the finished item complies with the relevant toy legislation in your country.
Please be sure to use toy grade stuffing and do not add buttons, bells, ribbons etc that could be a danger to small children.
The patterns are copyright protected and are not for commercial use. They cannot be sold, transmitted, distributed or reproduced in any form or by any means. I’ve worked hard to create the designs - please don’t sell my patterns - it’s just plain mean!
I am happy for you to donate, gift or sell any of the my crochet chums you make if you are an individual crafter - please credit mycrochetchums.com as the designer.
If you do wish to sell your my crochet chums, it is your responsibility to ensure that the finished item complies with the relevant toy legislation in your country.
Please be sure to use toy grade stuffing and do not add buttons, bells, ribbons etc that could be a danger to small children.
The patterns are copyright protected and are not for commercial use. They cannot be sold, transmitted, distributed or reproduced in any form or by any means. I’ve worked hard to create the designs - please don’t sell my patterns - it’s just plain mean!
About mycrochetchums
I started mycrochetchums at the end of 2020 to give me something to focus on during lockdown and to make creative use of a box of Aldi Amigurumi Yarn that was an impulse purchase I was feeling guilty about!
I’m loving creating these cute characters and sharpening my tech skills in the process as I wrangle with managing a website and social media.
Check out the mycrochetchums Facebook page - drop me a message there if you have any feedback about the pattern or would like to share a picture of the end result.
You can also find me on Instagram @mycrochetchums.
If you have any questions about any of my patterns (or any other ami you may be working on) please email me at: [email protected] - I’ll do my best to help!
Happy Crocheting!
Pia x
©PIA SIMPSON/ MYCROCHETCHUMS 2021
I started mycrochetchums at the end of 2020 to give me something to focus on during lockdown and to make creative use of a box of Aldi Amigurumi Yarn that was an impulse purchase I was feeling guilty about!
I’m loving creating these cute characters and sharpening my tech skills in the process as I wrangle with managing a website and social media.
Check out the mycrochetchums Facebook page - drop me a message there if you have any feedback about the pattern or would like to share a picture of the end result.
You can also find me on Instagram @mycrochetchums.
If you have any questions about any of my patterns (or any other ami you may be working on) please email me at: [email protected] - I’ll do my best to help!
Happy Crocheting!
Pia x
©PIA SIMPSON/ MYCROCHETCHUMS 2021
