#lockdownamichallenge - No 28 - Sheep
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Yarn
Aldi So Crafty Knit & Purl Amigurumi Yarn - described on the box as "Light" - Equivalent to DK.
40g approx of Sand (MC) for Head, Body, Legs, and Ears.
10g approx of Grey (CC1) for Hooves, Eyes and Mouth.
Small amounts of colours of your choice for the fleece ruffles on Body and Head.
100% Cotton 25g = 57.5m
A cotton yarn works well for Ami as it gives good stitch definition and creates a firm structure so body parts hold their shape well. Any cotton/cotton mix DK should give similar results.
Aldi So Crafty Knit & Purl Amigurumi Yarn - described on the box as "Light" - Equivalent to DK.
40g approx of Sand (MC) for Head, Body, Legs, and Ears.
10g approx of Grey (CC1) for Hooves, Eyes and Mouth.
Small amounts of colours of your choice for the fleece ruffles on Body and Head.
100% Cotton 25g = 57.5m
A cotton yarn works well for Ami as it gives good stitch definition and creates a firm structure so body parts hold their shape well. Any cotton/cotton mix DK should give similar results.
Hook
3 mm
3 mm
Other Supplies
Yarn needle, toy stuffing, stitch marker/waste yarn.
Yarn needle, toy stuffing, stitch marker/waste yarn.
Tension
Tension is not critical for this project but stitches should be tight enough to avoid stuffing showing through.
Tension is not critical for this project but stitches should be tight enough to avoid stuffing showing through.
Size
Approx 14cm (5.5in) from nose to tail.
Approx 14cm (5.5in) from nose to tail.
Pattern Notes
Unless otherwise specified this pattern is worked in the amigurumi style, in a continuous spiral without slip stitching or turning chains.
Use a stitch marker or waste yarn to keep track of the first stitch of each round.
If you do not want to make a Magic Ring you can start each piece by making a chain of 2 and then work the first round into the second chain from the hook.
If you would like to start with a Magic Ring but don’t know how, you can find a Photo Tutorial HERE.
The Sheep is made of multiple separate pieces sewn together. Unless otherwise stated, finish each piece by pulling the yarn through the last loop and leave a long tail for sewing. Any loose tails at the end can be easily woven in.
Unless otherwise specified this pattern is worked in the amigurumi style, in a continuous spiral without slip stitching or turning chains.
Use a stitch marker or waste yarn to keep track of the first stitch of each round.
If you do not want to make a Magic Ring you can start each piece by making a chain of 2 and then work the first round into the second chain from the hook.
If you would like to start with a Magic Ring but don’t know how, you can find a Photo Tutorial HERE.
The Sheep is made of multiple separate pieces sewn together. Unless otherwise stated, finish each piece by pulling the yarn through the last loop and leave a long tail for sewing. Any loose tails at the end can be easily woven in.
Increasing and decreasing
The “invisible” techniques below are recommended to give your amigurumi a neat finish:
Invisible Increase: Work 1 dc in FLO of next st and 1 dc in both loops of same st.
Invisible decrease: Insert hook in FLO of the two stitches to be decreased, yrh, pull through both front loops, yrh, draw through two loops on hook.
The “invisible” techniques below are recommended to give your amigurumi a neat finish:
Invisible Increase: Work 1 dc in FLO of next st and 1 dc in both loops of same st.
Invisible decrease: Insert hook in FLO of the two stitches to be decreased, yrh, pull through both front loops, yrh, draw through two loops on hook.
UK Crochet Terms - Abbreviations
This pattern is written using UK Crochet Terms - they are NOT the same as US ones - please familiarise yourself with the UK terms to avoid your character’s shape distorting!
The “dc” abbreviation used in this pattern refers to UK double crochet. The equivalent stitch in US terms is single crochet - if you are used to US patterns you need to work single crochet everywhere this pattern says “dc”. If you work US dc (equivalent to UK Treble) the finished item will be elongated and the stuffing will show through.
If you are used to working in US Crochet Terms you can find a conversion chart HERE.
If you are unfamiliar with any of the terms used in this pattern, you can find a chart of the UK Crochet terms used HERE.
This pattern is written using UK Crochet Terms - they are NOT the same as US ones - please familiarise yourself with the UK terms to avoid your character’s shape distorting!
The “dc” abbreviation used in this pattern refers to UK double crochet. The equivalent stitch in US terms is single crochet - if you are used to US patterns you need to work single crochet everywhere this pattern says “dc”. If you work US dc (equivalent to UK Treble) the finished item will be elongated and the stuffing will show through.
If you are used to working in US Crochet Terms you can find a conversion chart HERE.
If you are unfamiliar with any of the terms used in this pattern, you can find a chart of the UK Crochet terms used HERE.
Sheep Back Right
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Keep Front Left
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Head
Stuff as you go.
If you are unfamiliar with starting an ami pattern with a chain, check out the Oval Start Photo Tutorial HERE.
With MC, chain 4.
Rnd 1: Starting in 2nd chain from hook and rotating as you go, [3 dc, 2 ch] twice. 6 sts
Rnd 2: [3 dc, 3 dc in 2 ch-sp] twice. 12 sts
Rnd 3: *3 dc, [2 dc in next st] 3 times; rep from * once more. 18 sts
Rnd 4: *4 dc, [2 dc in next st, 1 dc] twice, 2 dc in next st; rep from * once more. 24 sts
Rnd 5: 1 dc, 2 dc in next st, 5 dc, [2 dc in next st, 2 dc] twice, 2 dc in next st, 5 dc, 2 dc in next st, 2 dc, 2 dc in next st, 1 dc. 30 sts
Rnds 6-9: Dc around.
Rnd 10: 1 dc, 1 dc2tog, 5 dc, [1 dc2tog, 2 dc] twice, 1 dc2tog, 5 dc, 1 dc2tog, 2 dc, 1 dc2tog, 1 dc. 24 sts
Rnds 11-12: Dc around.
Rnd 13: [10 dc, 1 dc2tog] twice. 22 sts
Rnd 14: Dc around.
Rnd 15: [9 dc, 1 dc2tog] twice. 20 sts
Rnd 16: Dc around in BLO.
Rnd 17: [1 dc2tog, 8 dc] twice. 18 sts
Rnd 18: Dc around in BLO.
Rnd 19: [1 dc in BLO, 1 dc2tog in BLO] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnd 20: 6 dc2tog in BLO. 6 sts
Fasten off, weave in end.
Stuff as you go.
If you are unfamiliar with starting an ami pattern with a chain, check out the Oval Start Photo Tutorial HERE.
With MC, chain 4.
Rnd 1: Starting in 2nd chain from hook and rotating as you go, [3 dc, 2 ch] twice. 6 sts
Rnd 2: [3 dc, 3 dc in 2 ch-sp] twice. 12 sts
Rnd 3: *3 dc, [2 dc in next st] 3 times; rep from * once more. 18 sts
Rnd 4: *4 dc, [2 dc in next st, 1 dc] twice, 2 dc in next st; rep from * once more. 24 sts
Rnd 5: 1 dc, 2 dc in next st, 5 dc, [2 dc in next st, 2 dc] twice, 2 dc in next st, 5 dc, 2 dc in next st, 2 dc, 2 dc in next st, 1 dc. 30 sts
Rnds 6-9: Dc around.
Rnd 10: 1 dc, 1 dc2tog, 5 dc, [1 dc2tog, 2 dc] twice, 1 dc2tog, 5 dc, 1 dc2tog, 2 dc, 1 dc2tog, 1 dc. 24 sts
Rnds 11-12: Dc around.
Rnd 13: [10 dc, 1 dc2tog] twice. 22 sts
Rnd 14: Dc around.
Rnd 15: [9 dc, 1 dc2tog] twice. 20 sts
Rnd 16: Dc around in BLO.
Rnd 17: [1 dc2tog, 8 dc] twice. 18 sts
Rnd 18: Dc around in BLO.
Rnd 19: [1 dc in BLO, 1 dc2tog in BLO] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnd 20: 6 dc2tog in BLO. 6 sts
Fasten off, weave in end.
Body
Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With MC and working in a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: [3dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 6: 10 dc, 20 dc in BLO. 30 sts
Rnd 7: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnd 8: 12 dc, 24 dc in BLO, 36 sts
Rnd 9: [5 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 42 sts
Rnd 10: 14 dc, 28 dc in BLO. 42 sts
Rnd 11: [6 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 48 sts
Rnd 12: 16 dc, 32 dc in BLO. 48 sts
Rnd 13: Dc around.
Rnd 14: 17 dc, 31 dc in BLO. 48 sts
Rnd 15: Dc around.
Rnd 16: 18 dc, 30 dc in BLO. 48 sts
Rnd 17: [6 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 42 sts
Rnd 18: 17 dc, 25 dc in BLO. 42 sts
Rnd 19: 1 dc in BLO, 41 dc. 42 sts
Rnd 20: Rep Rnd 18.
Rnd 21: 1 dc in BLO, 4 dc, 1 dc2tog, [5 dc, 1 dc2tog] 5 times. 36 sts
Rnd 22: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] twice, 3 dc, 1 dc in BLO, 1 dc2tog in BLO, [4 dc in BLO, 1 dc2tog in BLO] 3 times. 30 sts
Rnd 23: 2 dc in BLO, 1 dc, 1 dc2tog, [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 5 times. 24 sts
Rnd 24: [2 dc in BLO, 1 dc2tog BLO] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 25: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnd 26: 6 dc2tog in BLO. 6 sts
Fasten off.
Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With MC and working in a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: [3dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 6: 10 dc, 20 dc in BLO. 30 sts
Rnd 7: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnd 8: 12 dc, 24 dc in BLO, 36 sts
Rnd 9: [5 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 42 sts
Rnd 10: 14 dc, 28 dc in BLO. 42 sts
Rnd 11: [6 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 48 sts
Rnd 12: 16 dc, 32 dc in BLO. 48 sts
Rnd 13: Dc around.
Rnd 14: 17 dc, 31 dc in BLO. 48 sts
Rnd 15: Dc around.
Rnd 16: 18 dc, 30 dc in BLO. 48 sts
Rnd 17: [6 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 42 sts
Rnd 18: 17 dc, 25 dc in BLO. 42 sts
Rnd 19: 1 dc in BLO, 41 dc. 42 sts
Rnd 20: Rep Rnd 18.
Rnd 21: 1 dc in BLO, 4 dc, 1 dc2tog, [5 dc, 1 dc2tog] 5 times. 36 sts
Rnd 22: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] twice, 3 dc, 1 dc in BLO, 1 dc2tog in BLO, [4 dc in BLO, 1 dc2tog in BLO] 3 times. 30 sts
Rnd 23: 2 dc in BLO, 1 dc, 1 dc2tog, [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 5 times. 24 sts
Rnd 24: [2 dc in BLO, 1 dc2tog BLO] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 25: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnd 26: 6 dc2tog in BLO. 6 sts
Fasten off.
Leg - make 4
Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With CC1 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnds 3-4: Dc around.
Change to MC.
Rnds 5-7: Dc around.
Rnd 8: 1 dc2tog, 7 dc. 8 sts
Rnds 9-11: Dc around.
Fasten off.
Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With CC1 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnds 3-4: Dc around.
Change to MC.
Rnds 5-7: Dc around.
Rnd 8: 1 dc2tog, 7 dc. 8 sts
Rnds 9-11: Dc around.
Fasten off.
Eye - make 2
Rnd 1: With CC1 and working into a magic ring, 4 dc, join with sl st into beg dc. 4 sts
Fasten off.
Rnd 1: With CC1 and working into a magic ring, 4 dc, join with sl st into beg dc. 4 sts
Fasten off.
Ear - make 2
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Fasten off.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Fasten off.
Fleece Ruffles - Body
To work the Body Fleece Ruffles, with head end of Body facing towards you:
Row 1: Attach yarn colour of your choice in to first unworked Front Loop of Rnd 5 and work [1 dc, 5 ch, 1dc] in each Front Loop across. Fasten off.
Row 2: Attach next colour yarn to first unworked Front Loop of Rnd 7 and repeat Row 1.
Continue with each colour working into the next set of unworked front loops finishing with the unworked loops of Rnd 26.
Final Ruffle is made separately and sewn on. With yarn colour of your choice, working into a magic ring, [1 dc, 3 ch] 4 times., sl st into ring.
Fasten off, Sew into place.
To work the Body Fleece Ruffles, with head end of Body facing towards you:
Row 1: Attach yarn colour of your choice in to first unworked Front Loop of Rnd 5 and work [1 dc, 5 ch, 1dc] in each Front Loop across. Fasten off.
Row 2: Attach next colour yarn to first unworked Front Loop of Rnd 7 and repeat Row 1.
Continue with each colour working into the next set of unworked front loops finishing with the unworked loops of Rnd 26.
Final Ruffle is made separately and sewn on. With yarn colour of your choice, working into a magic ring, [1 dc, 3 ch] 4 times., sl st into ring.
Fasten off, Sew into place.
Fleece Ruffles - Head
To work the Body Fleece Ruffles, with head end of Body facing towards you:
Row 1: Attach yarn colour of your choice in to first unworked Front Loop of Rnd 15 and work [1 dc, 5 ch, 1dc] in each Front Loop across. Fasten off.
Row 2: Attach next colour yarn to first unworked Front Loop of Rnd 17 and repeat Row 1.
Continue with each colour working into the next set of unworked front loops finishing with the unworked loops of Rnd 20.
To work the Body Fleece Ruffles, with head end of Body facing towards you:
Row 1: Attach yarn colour of your choice in to first unworked Front Loop of Rnd 15 and work [1 dc, 5 ch, 1dc] in each Front Loop across. Fasten off.
Row 2: Attach next colour yarn to first unworked Front Loop of Rnd 17 and repeat Row 1.
Continue with each colour working into the next set of unworked front loops finishing with the unworked loops of Rnd 20.
Sheep - Back
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Sheep - Front
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Making Up
Using the photographs as a guide, pin the pieces together first, checking from all angles to make sure you’re happy with the positioning, then use the long yarn tails or a length of yarn with a yarn needle to stitch the pieces together.
Starting with the Head, sew the folded Ears in place either side of the Head, just below the lowest Fleece Ruffle.
Sew the Eyes in place roughly in line with Rnd 10 of the Head, about 3 stitches apart.
Sew the Head on to the Body.
Sew the Legs in place on the underside of the Body, making sure that the legs in each pair are butted up to each other. After you have attached them to the body, join the legs in each pair together, stitching about half way down the inside of each leg. This will help your sheep to stand up.
Using the photographs as a guide, pin the pieces together first, checking from all angles to make sure you’re happy with the positioning, then use the long yarn tails or a length of yarn with a yarn needle to stitch the pieces together.
Starting with the Head, sew the folded Ears in place either side of the Head, just below the lowest Fleece Ruffle.
Sew the Eyes in place roughly in line with Rnd 10 of the Head, about 3 stitches apart.
Sew the Head on to the Body.
Sew the Legs in place on the underside of the Body, making sure that the legs in each pair are butted up to each other. After you have attached them to the body, join the legs in each pair together, stitching about half way down the inside of each leg. This will help your sheep to stand up.
Sheep - Face Detail
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Sheep Underside
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Embroidered Details
Using the photos as a guide, embroider the Mouth using CC1 and use MC to sew the single stitch highlight on each eye.
Using the photos as a guide, embroider the Mouth using CC1 and use MC to sew the single stitch highlight on each eye.
Terms of Use
I am happy for you to donate, gift or sell any of the my crochet chums you make if you are an individual crafter - please credit mycrochetchums.com as the designer.
If you do wish to sell your my crochet chums, it is your responsibility to ensure that the finished item complies with the relevant toy legislation in your country.
Please be sure to use toy grade stuffing and do not add buttons, bells, ribbons etc that could be a danger to small children.
The patterns are copyright protected and are not for commercial use. They cannot be sold, transmitted, distributed or reproduced in any form or by any means. I’ve worked hard to create the designs - please don’t sell my patterns - it’s just plain mean!
I am happy for you to donate, gift or sell any of the my crochet chums you make if you are an individual crafter - please credit mycrochetchums.com as the designer.
If you do wish to sell your my crochet chums, it is your responsibility to ensure that the finished item complies with the relevant toy legislation in your country.
Please be sure to use toy grade stuffing and do not add buttons, bells, ribbons etc that could be a danger to small children.
The patterns are copyright protected and are not for commercial use. They cannot be sold, transmitted, distributed or reproduced in any form or by any means. I’ve worked hard to create the designs - please don’t sell my patterns - it’s just plain mean!
About mycrochetchums
I started mycrochetchums at the end of 2020 to give me something to focus on during lockdown and to make creative use of a box of Aldi Amigurumi Yarn that was an impulse purchase I was feeling guilty about!
I’m loving creating these cute characters and sharpening my tech skills in the process as I wrangle with managing a website and social media.
Check out the mycrochetchums Facebook page - drop me a message there if you have any feedback about the pattern or would like to share a picture of the end result.
You can also find me on Instagram @mycrochetchums.
If you have any questions about any of my patterns (or any other ami you may be working on) please email me at: [email protected] - I’ll do my best to help!
Happy Crocheting!
Pia x
©PIA SIMPSON/ MYCROCHETCHUMS 2021
I started mycrochetchums at the end of 2020 to give me something to focus on during lockdown and to make creative use of a box of Aldi Amigurumi Yarn that was an impulse purchase I was feeling guilty about!
I’m loving creating these cute characters and sharpening my tech skills in the process as I wrangle with managing a website and social media.
Check out the mycrochetchums Facebook page - drop me a message there if you have any feedback about the pattern or would like to share a picture of the end result.
You can also find me on Instagram @mycrochetchums.
If you have any questions about any of my patterns (or any other ami you may be working on) please email me at: [email protected] - I’ll do my best to help!
Happy Crocheting!
Pia x
©PIA SIMPSON/ MYCROCHETCHUMS 2021
