#lockdownamichallenge - No 27 - Tiger
No 27 Tiger
Scroll down for more pictures!
Yarn
Aldi So Crafty Knit & Purl Amigurumi Yarn - described on the box as "Light" - Equivalent to DK.
40g approx of Orange (MC) for Head, Body, Arms, Legs, Ears and Tail.
15g approx of Pale Peach (CC1) for Snout, Belly Patch, Inner Ears, Paws and Tail.
10 g approx of Black (CC2) for Eyes, Nose and Embroidered stripes and Claws.
100% Cotton 25g = 57.5m
A cotton yarn works well for Ami as it gives good stitch definition and creates a firm structure so body parts hold their shape well. Any cotton/cotton mix DK should give similar results.
Aldi So Crafty Knit & Purl Amigurumi Yarn - described on the box as "Light" - Equivalent to DK.
40g approx of Orange (MC) for Head, Body, Arms, Legs, Ears and Tail.
15g approx of Pale Peach (CC1) for Snout, Belly Patch, Inner Ears, Paws and Tail.
10 g approx of Black (CC2) for Eyes, Nose and Embroidered stripes and Claws.
100% Cotton 25g = 57.5m
A cotton yarn works well for Ami as it gives good stitch definition and creates a firm structure so body parts hold their shape well. Any cotton/cotton mix DK should give similar results.
Hook
3 mm
3 mm
Other Supplies
Yarn needle, toy stuffing, stitch marker/waste yarn.
Yarn needle, toy stuffing, stitch marker/waste yarn.
Tension
Tension is not critical for this project but stitches should be tight enough to avoid stuffing showing through.
Tension is not critical for this project but stitches should be tight enough to avoid stuffing showing through.
Size
Approx 20cm (8in) tall.
Approx 20cm (8in) tall.
Pattern Notes
Unless otherwise specified this pattern is worked in the amigurumi style, in a continuous spiral without slip stitching or turning chains.
Use a stitch marker or waste yarn to keep track of the first stitch of each round.
If you do not want to make a Magic Ring you can start each piece by making a chain of 2 and then work the first round into the second chain from the hook.
If you would like to start with a Magic Ring but don’t know how, you can find a Photo Tutorial HERE.
The Tiger is made of multiple separate pieces sewn together. Unless otherwise stated, finish each piece by pulling the yarn through the last loop and leave a long tail for sewing. Any loose tails at the end can be easily woven in.
Unless otherwise specified this pattern is worked in the amigurumi style, in a continuous spiral without slip stitching or turning chains.
Use a stitch marker or waste yarn to keep track of the first stitch of each round.
If you do not want to make a Magic Ring you can start each piece by making a chain of 2 and then work the first round into the second chain from the hook.
If you would like to start with a Magic Ring but don’t know how, you can find a Photo Tutorial HERE.
The Tiger is made of multiple separate pieces sewn together. Unless otherwise stated, finish each piece by pulling the yarn through the last loop and leave a long tail for sewing. Any loose tails at the end can be easily woven in.
Increasing and decreasing
The “invisible” techniques below are recommended to give your amigurumi a neat finish:
Invisible Increase: Work 1 dc in FLO of next st and 1 dc in both loops of same st.
Invisible decrease: Insert hook in FLO of the two stitches to be decreased, yrh, pull through both front loops, yrh, draw through two loops on hook.
The “invisible” techniques below are recommended to give your amigurumi a neat finish:
Invisible Increase: Work 1 dc in FLO of next st and 1 dc in both loops of same st.
Invisible decrease: Insert hook in FLO of the two stitches to be decreased, yrh, pull through both front loops, yrh, draw through two loops on hook.
UK Crochet Terms - Abbreviations
This pattern is written using UK Crochet Terms - they are NOT the same as US ones - please familiarise yourself with the UK terms to avoid your character’s shape distorting!
The “dc” abbreviation used in this pattern refers to UK double crochet. The equivalent stitch in US terms is single crochet - if you are used to US patterns you need to work single crochet everywhere this pattern says “dc”. If you work US dc (equivalent to UK Treble) the finished item will be elongated and the stuffing will show through.
If you are used to working in US Crochet Terms you can find a conversion chart HERE.
If you are unfamiliar with any of the terms used in this pattern, you can find a chart of the UK Crochet terms used HERE.
This pattern is written using UK Crochet Terms - they are NOT the same as US ones - please familiarise yourself with the UK terms to avoid your character’s shape distorting!
The “dc” abbreviation used in this pattern refers to UK double crochet. The equivalent stitch in US terms is single crochet - if you are used to US patterns you need to work single crochet everywhere this pattern says “dc”. If you work US dc (equivalent to UK Treble) the finished item will be elongated and the stuffing will show through.
If you are used to working in US Crochet Terms you can find a conversion chart HERE.
If you are unfamiliar with any of the terms used in this pattern, you can find a chart of the UK Crochet terms used HERE.
Tiger Front
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Tiger Back
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Head
Stuff as you go.
If you are unfamiliar with starting an ami pattern with a chain, check out the Oval Start Photo Tutorial HERE.
With MC, chain 4.
Rnd 1: Starting in 2nd chain from hook and rotating as you go, [3 dc, 2 ch] twice. 6 sts
Rnd 2: [3 dc, 3 dc in 2 ch-sp] twice. 12 sts
Rnd 3: *3 dc, [2 dc in next st] 3 times; rep from * once more. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 6: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnd 7: Dc around.
Rnd 8: [5 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 42 sts
Rnd 9: Dc around.
Rnd 10: [5 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnd 11: Dc around.
Rnd 12: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 13: Dc around.
Rnd 14: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 15: Dc around.
Rnd 16: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 17: Dc around.
Rnd 18: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnd 19: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Fasten off, weave in end.
Stuff as you go.
If you are unfamiliar with starting an ami pattern with a chain, check out the Oval Start Photo Tutorial HERE.
With MC, chain 4.
Rnd 1: Starting in 2nd chain from hook and rotating as you go, [3 dc, 2 ch] twice. 6 sts
Rnd 2: [3 dc, 3 dc in 2 ch-sp] twice. 12 sts
Rnd 3: *3 dc, [2 dc in next st] 3 times; rep from * once more. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 6: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnd 7: Dc around.
Rnd 8: [5 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 42 sts
Rnd 9: Dc around.
Rnd 10: [5 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnd 11: Dc around.
Rnd 12: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 13: Dc around.
Rnd 14: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 15: Dc around.
Rnd 16: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 17: Dc around.
Rnd 18: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnd 19: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Fasten off, weave in end.
Body
Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With MC and working in a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: [3dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 6: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnds 7-12: Dc around.
Rnd 13: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnds 14-15: Dc around.
Rnd 16: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnds 17-18: Dc around.
Rnd 19: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 20: Dc around.
Fasten off.
Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With MC and working in a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: [3dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 6: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnds 7-12: Dc around.
Rnd 13: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnds 14-15: Dc around.
Rnd 16: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnds 17-18: Dc around.
Rnd 19: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 20: Dc around.
Fasten off.
Arm - make 2
Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With CC1 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] twice. 8 sts
Rnd 3: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] twice. 10 sts
Rnd 4: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] twice. 12 sts
Rnds 5-6: Dc around.
Rnd 7: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] twice. 10 sts
Change to MC.
Rnd 8: [3dc, 1 dc2tog] twice. 8 sts
Rnds 9-12: Dc around.
Rnd 13: [1 dc2tog, 2dc] twice. 6 sts
Rnd 14: Dc around.
Fasten off.
Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With CC1 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] twice. 8 sts
Rnd 3: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] twice. 10 sts
Rnd 4: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] twice. 12 sts
Rnds 5-6: Dc around.
Rnd 7: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] twice. 10 sts
Change to MC.
Rnd 8: [3dc, 1 dc2tog] twice. 8 sts
Rnds 9-12: Dc around.
Rnd 13: [1 dc2tog, 2dc] twice. 6 sts
Rnd 14: Dc around.
Fasten off.
Leg - make 2
Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With CC1 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Change to MC.
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: Dc around.
Rnd 6: 6 dc2tog, 12 dc. 18 sts
Rnd 7: 3 dc2tog, 12 dc. 15 sts
Rnd 8: 2 dc2tog, 5 dc, 1 dc2tog, 4 dc. 12 sts
Rnds 9-13: Dc around.
Rnd 14: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 4 times. 8 sts
Fasten off.
Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With CC1 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Change to MC.
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: Dc around.
Rnd 6: 6 dc2tog, 12 dc. 18 sts
Rnd 7: 3 dc2tog, 12 dc. 15 sts
Rnd 8: 2 dc2tog, 5 dc, 1 dc2tog, 4 dc. 12 sts
Rnds 9-13: Dc around.
Rnd 14: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 4 times. 8 sts
Fasten off.
Snout
Rnd 1: With CC1and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [2 dc in next st, 2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: Dc around.
Rnd 5: [2 dc in next st, 4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 24 sts
Rnd 6: Dc around.
Fasten off.
Rnd 1: With CC1and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [2 dc in next st, 2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: Dc around.
Rnd 5: [2 dc in next st, 4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 24 sts
Rnd 6: Dc around.
Fasten off.
Nose
Rnd 1: With CC2 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: Dc around.
Change to MC.
Rnd 4: Dc around.
Rnd 5: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnd 6: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 6 sts
Rnd 7: Dc around.
Fasten off.
Rnd 1: With CC2 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: Dc around.
Change to MC.
Rnd 4: Dc around.
Rnd 5: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnd 6: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 6 sts
Rnd 7: Dc around.
Fasten off.
Eye - make 2
Rnd 1: With CC2 and working into a magic ring, 4 dc, join with sl st into beg dc. 4 sts
Fasten off.
Rnd 1: With CC2 and working into a magic ring, 4 dc, join with sl st into beg dc. 4 sts
Fasten off.
Ear - make 2
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnds 4-6: Dc around.
Fasten off.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnds 4-6: Dc around.
Fasten off.
Inner Ear - make 2
Rnd 1: With CC1 and working into a magic ring, 5 dc. Turn. 5 sts
Rnd 2: 1 ch, [2 dc in next st] 5 times. 10 sts
Fasten off.
Rnd 1: With CC1 and working into a magic ring, 5 dc. Turn. 5 sts
Rnd 2: 1 ch, [2 dc in next st] 5 times. 10 sts
Fasten off.
Belly Patch
Rnd 1: With CC1 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 6: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts
Fasten off.
Rnd 1: With CC1 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 6: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts
Fasten off.
Tail
Rnd 1: With CC1 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnds 2-4: Dc around.
Change to MC.
Rnds 5-14: Dc around.
Fasten off
Rnd 1: With CC1 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnds 2-4: Dc around.
Change to MC.
Rnds 5-14: Dc around.
Fasten off
Making Up
Using the photographs as a guide, pin the pieces together first, checking from all angles to make sure you’re happy with the positioning, then use the long yarn tails or a length of yarn with a yarn needle to stitch the pieces together.
Starting with the Head, sew the stuffed Snout on centrally aligned on one of the wide, flat sides of the Head, with the pointed base of the snout sitting roughly in line with Rnd 6 of the Head.
Sew the Nose on the top of the snout so that the MC top of the nose sits on the top edge of the Snout where it joins on to the Head.
Using the photographs as a guide, pin the pieces together first, checking from all angles to make sure you’re happy with the positioning, then use the long yarn tails or a length of yarn with a yarn needle to stitch the pieces together.
Starting with the Head, sew the stuffed Snout on centrally aligned on one of the wide, flat sides of the Head, with the pointed base of the snout sitting roughly in line with Rnd 6 of the Head.
Sew the Nose on the top of the snout so that the MC top of the nose sits on the top edge of the Snout where it joins on to the Head.
Tiger Face Detail
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Tiger Left Side
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Tiger Right Side
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Tiger Base
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Sew the Eyes in place just above the top edge of the Snout, either side of the top of the Nose.
Sew the Ears in place with their bottom edge roughly in line with Rnd 10 of the Head, curving them slightly so their top edge sits roughly in line with Rnd 18 of the Head.
Sew the Inner Ears inside the Ears.
Sew the Body on to the bottom of the Head.
Sew the Belly Patch on to the front of the Body, centrally aligned with the facial features.
Sew the Arms on either side of the Body roughly in line with Rnd 18 of the Body - looking from the side they should sit in line with the Ears.
Sew the Legs, with the feet facing forward, in place roughly in line with Rnd 4 of the Body, set forward so that the Tiger can sit down on his bottom.
Sew the Tail in place roughly in line with Rnd 6 of the Body, centrally aligned on the Tiger’s back.
Sew the Ears in place with their bottom edge roughly in line with Rnd 10 of the Head, curving them slightly so their top edge sits roughly in line with Rnd 18 of the Head.
Sew the Inner Ears inside the Ears.
Sew the Body on to the bottom of the Head.
Sew the Belly Patch on to the front of the Body, centrally aligned with the facial features.
Sew the Arms on either side of the Body roughly in line with Rnd 18 of the Body - looking from the side they should sit in line with the Ears.
Sew the Legs, with the feet facing forward, in place roughly in line with Rnd 4 of the Body, set forward so that the Tiger can sit down on his bottom.
Sew the Tail in place roughly in line with Rnd 6 of the Body, centrally aligned on the Tiger’s back.
Tiger Ear Detail
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Tiger "Hand" Detail
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Tiger "Toe" Detail
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Embroidered Details
Using the photos as a guide, embroider the following, all using CC2:
The mouth below the nose.
The “claws” on the Paws.
The detail on the tips of the Ears.
The stripes on the top, back and sides of the Head.
The stripes on the Arms and Legs.
The stripes on the Body.
The stripes on the Tail.
Finally, using CC1 embroider the single stitch highlight on each eye.
All done!
Using the photos as a guide, embroider the following, all using CC2:
The mouth below the nose.
The “claws” on the Paws.
The detail on the tips of the Ears.
The stripes on the top, back and sides of the Head.
The stripes on the Arms and Legs.
The stripes on the Body.
The stripes on the Tail.
Finally, using CC1 embroider the single stitch highlight on each eye.
All done!
Terms of Use
I am happy for you to donate, gift or sell any of the my crochet chums you make if you are an individual crafter - please credit mycrochetchums.com as the designer.
If you do wish to sell your my crochet chums, it is your responsibility to ensure that the finished item complies with the relevant toy legislation in your country.
Please be sure to use toy grade stuffing and do not add buttons, bells, ribbons etc that could be a danger to small children.
The patterns are copyright protected and are not for commercial use. They cannot be sold, transmitted, distributed or reproduced in any form or by any means. I’ve worked hard to create the designs - please don’t sell my patterns - it’s just plain mean!
I am happy for you to donate, gift or sell any of the my crochet chums you make if you are an individual crafter - please credit mycrochetchums.com as the designer.
If you do wish to sell your my crochet chums, it is your responsibility to ensure that the finished item complies with the relevant toy legislation in your country.
Please be sure to use toy grade stuffing and do not add buttons, bells, ribbons etc that could be a danger to small children.
The patterns are copyright protected and are not for commercial use. They cannot be sold, transmitted, distributed or reproduced in any form or by any means. I’ve worked hard to create the designs - please don’t sell my patterns - it’s just plain mean!
About mycrochetchums
I started mycrochetchums at the end of 2020 to give me something to focus on during lockdown and to make creative use of a box of Aldi Amigurumi Yarn that was an impulse purchase I was feeling guilty about!
I’m loving creating these cute characters and sharpening my tech skills in the process as I wrangle with managing a website and social media.
Check out the mycrochetchums Facebook page - drop me a message there if you have any feedback about the pattern or would like to share a picture of the end result.
You can also find me on Instagram @mycrochetchums.
If you have any questions about any of my patterns (or any other ami you may be working on) please email me at: [email protected] - I’ll do my best to help!
Happy Crocheting!
Pia x
©PIA SIMPSON/ MYCROCHETCHUMS 2021
I started mycrochetchums at the end of 2020 to give me something to focus on during lockdown and to make creative use of a box of Aldi Amigurumi Yarn that was an impulse purchase I was feeling guilty about!
I’m loving creating these cute characters and sharpening my tech skills in the process as I wrangle with managing a website and social media.
Check out the mycrochetchums Facebook page - drop me a message there if you have any feedback about the pattern or would like to share a picture of the end result.
You can also find me on Instagram @mycrochetchums.
If you have any questions about any of my patterns (or any other ami you may be working on) please email me at: [email protected] - I’ll do my best to help!
Happy Crocheting!
Pia x
©PIA SIMPSON/ MYCROCHETCHUMS 2021
