#lockdownamichallenge - No 25 - Butterfly
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Yarn
Aldi So Crafty Knit & Purl Amigurumi Yarn - described on the box as "Light" - Equivalent to DK.
25g approx of Yellow (MC) for Wings and embroidered detail.
20g approx of Pale Blue (CC1) for Head, Tail, Spots.
15 g approx of Bright Pink (CC2) for Body, Spots and embroidered mouth.
10g approx of Lime Green (CC3) for Antennae, Body Trim and embroidered detail.
Small amount of Black (CC4) for embroidered Eyes.
100% Cotton 25g = 57.5m
A cotton yarn works well for Ami as it gives good stitch definition and creates a firm structure so body parts hold their shape well. Any cotton/cotton mix DK should give similar results.
Aldi So Crafty Knit & Purl Amigurumi Yarn - described on the box as "Light" - Equivalent to DK.
25g approx of Yellow (MC) for Wings and embroidered detail.
20g approx of Pale Blue (CC1) for Head, Tail, Spots.
15 g approx of Bright Pink (CC2) for Body, Spots and embroidered mouth.
10g approx of Lime Green (CC3) for Antennae, Body Trim and embroidered detail.
Small amount of Black (CC4) for embroidered Eyes.
100% Cotton 25g = 57.5m
A cotton yarn works well for Ami as it gives good stitch definition and creates a firm structure so body parts hold their shape well. Any cotton/cotton mix DK should give similar results.
Hook
3 mm
3 mm
Other Supplies
Yarn needle, toy stuffing, stitch marker/waste yarn.
Yarn needle, toy stuffing, stitch marker/waste yarn.
Tension
Tension is not critical for this project but stitches should be tight enough to avoid stuffing showing through.
Tension is not critical for this project but stitches should be tight enough to avoid stuffing showing through.
Size
Approx 14cm (5.5in) across wings and same from top of Antennae to bottom of Body.
Approx 14cm (5.5in) across wings and same from top of Antennae to bottom of Body.
Pattern Notes
Unless otherwise specified this pattern is worked in the amigurumi style, in a continuous spiral without slip stitching or turning chains.
Use a stitch marker or waste yarn to keep track of the first stitch of each round.
If you do not want to make a Magic Ring you can start each piece by making a chain of 2 and then work the first round into the second chain from the hook.
If you would like to start with a Magic Ring but don’t know how, you can find a Photo Tutorial HERE.
The Butterfly is made of multiple separate pieces sewn together. Unless otherwise stated, finish each piece by pulling the yarn through the last loop and leave a long tail for sewing. Any loose tails at the end can be easily woven in.
Unless otherwise specified this pattern is worked in the amigurumi style, in a continuous spiral without slip stitching or turning chains.
Use a stitch marker or waste yarn to keep track of the first stitch of each round.
If you do not want to make a Magic Ring you can start each piece by making a chain of 2 and then work the first round into the second chain from the hook.
If you would like to start with a Magic Ring but don’t know how, you can find a Photo Tutorial HERE.
The Butterfly is made of multiple separate pieces sewn together. Unless otherwise stated, finish each piece by pulling the yarn through the last loop and leave a long tail for sewing. Any loose tails at the end can be easily woven in.
Increasing and decreasing
The “invisible” techniques below are recommended to give your amigurumi a neat finish:
Invisible Increase: Work 1 dc in FLO of next st and 1 dc in both loops of same st.
Invisible decrease: Insert hook in FLO of the two stitches to be decreased, yrh, pull through both front loops, yrh, draw through two loops on hook.
The “invisible” techniques below are recommended to give your amigurumi a neat finish:
Invisible Increase: Work 1 dc in FLO of next st and 1 dc in both loops of same st.
Invisible decrease: Insert hook in FLO of the two stitches to be decreased, yrh, pull through both front loops, yrh, draw through two loops on hook.
UK Crochet Terms - Abbreviations
This pattern is written using UK Crochet Terms - they are NOT the same as US ones - please familiarise yourself with the UK terms to avoid your character’s shape distorting!
The “dc” abbreviation used in this pattern refers to UK double crochet. The equivalent stitch in US terms is single crochet - if you are used to US patterns you need to work single crochet everywhere this pattern says “dc”. If you work US dc (equivalent to UK Treble) the finished item will be elongated and the stuffing will show through.
This pattern is written using UK Crochet Terms - they are NOT the same as US ones - please familiarise yourself with the UK terms to avoid your character’s shape distorting!
The “dc” abbreviation used in this pattern refers to UK double crochet. The equivalent stitch in US terms is single crochet - if you are used to US patterns you need to work single crochet everywhere this pattern says “dc”. If you work US dc (equivalent to UK Treble) the finished item will be elongated and the stuffing will show through.
If you are used to working in US Crochet Terms you can find a conversion chart at HERE.
If you are unfamiliar with any of the terms used in this pattern, you can find a chart of the UK Crochet terms used HERE.
If you are unfamiliar with any of the terms used in this pattern, you can find a chart of the UK Crochet terms used HERE.
Head and Body
Stuff as you go. Worked as one piece from top of Head downwards.
Rnd 1: With CC1 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: [7dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 27 sts
Rnds 6-9: Dc around.
Rnd 10: [7 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 24 sts
Rnd 11: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 12: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Change to CC2.
Rnd 13: Dc around.
Rnd 14: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 15: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnds 16-19: Dc around.
Rnd 20: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 21: Dc around.
Rnd 22: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Change to CC1.
Rnd 23: Dc around.
Rnd 24: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 25: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 26: Dc around.
Rnd 27: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 28: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnd 29: Dc around.
Rnd 30: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Fasten off. Weave yarn tail through stitches of last round and pull up to close hole.
Stuff as you go. Worked as one piece from top of Head downwards.
Rnd 1: With CC1 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: [7dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 27 sts
Rnds 6-9: Dc around.
Rnd 10: [7 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 24 sts
Rnd 11: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 12: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Change to CC2.
Rnd 13: Dc around.
Rnd 14: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 15: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnds 16-19: Dc around.
Rnd 20: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 21: Dc around.
Rnd 22: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Change to CC1.
Rnd 23: Dc around.
Rnd 24: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 25: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 26: Dc around.
Rnd 27: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 28: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnd 29: Dc around.
Rnd 30: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Fasten off. Weave yarn tail through stitches of last round and pull up to close hole.
Wing - make 2
Make Part A (the smaller “bump” of the wing first and fasten off. Make Part B (the larger “bump” next - the two pieces are joined in Rnd 9 and the rest of the wing shape is then worked. Stuff the wing as you go.
Part A - small “bump”.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnds 4-7: Dc around.
Fasten off. In Rnd 9 below you will work into the beg dc of Rnd 7.
Part B - large “bump”.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnds 5-8: Dc around.
Then, to join…
Rnd 9: 12 dc, then starting in the beg dc of Part A’s Rnd 7, 18 dc, then starting in the next unused st of Part B’s Rnd 8, 12 dc. 42 sts
Rnd 10: [5 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnd 11: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 30 sts
Lightly stuff the two “bumps”.
Rnd 12: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnds 13-14: Dc around.
Rnd 15: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnds 16-17: Dc around.
Rnd 18: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnd 19: Dc around.
Fasten off. Lightly stuff rest of wing.
Make Part A (the smaller “bump” of the wing first and fasten off. Make Part B (the larger “bump” next - the two pieces are joined in Rnd 9 and the rest of the wing shape is then worked. Stuff the wing as you go.
Part A - small “bump”.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnds 4-7: Dc around.
Fasten off. In Rnd 9 below you will work into the beg dc of Rnd 7.
Part B - large “bump”.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnds 5-8: Dc around.
Then, to join…
Rnd 9: 12 dc, then starting in the beg dc of Part A’s Rnd 7, 18 dc, then starting in the next unused st of Part B’s Rnd 8, 12 dc. 42 sts
Rnd 10: [5 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnd 11: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 30 sts
Lightly stuff the two “bumps”.
Rnd 12: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnds 13-14: Dc around.
Rnd 15: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnds 16-17: Dc around.
Rnd 18: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnd 19: Dc around.
Fasten off. Lightly stuff rest of wing.
Body Trim - make 2
With CC3, chain 17.
Row 1: Starting in 2nd chain from hook, 16 dc.
Fasten off.
With CC3, chain 17.
Row 1: Starting in 2nd chain from hook, 16 dc.
Fasten off.
Antenna - make 2
Rnd 1: With CC3 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: Dc around.
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] twice. 4 sts
Rnds 4-5: Dc around.
Fasten off.
Rnd 1: With CC3 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: Dc around.
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] twice. 4 sts
Rnds 4-5: Dc around.
Fasten off.
Wing Decoration - Large Circle, make 2.
Rnd 1: With CC1 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times, join with a sl st in beg dc. 18 sts
Fasten off.
Rnd 1: With CC1 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times, join with a sl st in beg dc. 18 sts
Fasten off.
Wing Decoration - Medium Circle, make 2.
Rnd 1: With CC2 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around, join with a sl st in beg dc. 12 sts
Fasten off.
Rnd 1: With CC2 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around, join with a sl st in beg dc. 12 sts
Fasten off.
Wing Decoration - Small Circle, make 2 in CC1 and 2 in CC2.
Rnd 1: With CC2 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc, join with a sl st in beg dc. 6 sts
Fasten off.
Rnd 1: With CC2 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc, join with a sl st in beg dc. 6 sts
Fasten off.
Making Up
Using the photographs as a guide, pin the pieces together first, checking from all angles to make sure you’re happy with the positioning, then use the long yarn tails or a length of yarn with a yarn needle to stitch the pieces together.
Position the two Wings so that they mirror each other (with the big bump at the top on both sides) and stitch the two together, joining them through the last round on each.
Attach the two Body Trims to the Body at the two narrowest points (where the colours change).
Attach the joined Wings to the back of the Body, sitting just below the Butterfly’s neck.
Attach the Antennae to the top of the Head.
Stitch the decorative spots in place on each Wing.
Using the photographs as a guide, pin the pieces together first, checking from all angles to make sure you’re happy with the positioning, then use the long yarn tails or a length of yarn with a yarn needle to stitch the pieces together.
Position the two Wings so that they mirror each other (with the big bump at the top on both sides) and stitch the two together, joining them through the last round on each.
Attach the two Body Trims to the Body at the two narrowest points (where the colours change).
Attach the joined Wings to the back of the Body, sitting just below the Butterfly’s neck.
Attach the Antennae to the top of the Head.
Stitch the decorative spots in place on each Wing.
Embroidered Details
Using the photos as a guide, embroider the following:
With MC - the three dotted lines round across the front of the body.
With CC2, the Butterfly’s mouth.
With CC3, the lines on the front, and the Stars on the back of the Wings.
With CC4, the Eyes.
All done, your Butterfly is complete!
Using the photos as a guide, embroider the following:
With MC - the three dotted lines round across the front of the body.
With CC2, the Butterfly’s mouth.
With CC3, the lines on the front, and the Stars on the back of the Wings.
With CC4, the Eyes.
All done, your Butterfly is complete!
Terms of Use
I am happy for you to donate, gift or sell any of the my crochet chums you make if you are an individual crafter - please credit mycrochetchums.com as the designer.
If you do wish to sell your my crochet chums, it is your responsibility to ensure that the finished item complies with the relevant toy legislation in your country.
Please be sure to use toy grade stuffing and do not add buttons, bells, ribbons etc that could be a danger to small children.
The patterns are copyright protected and are not for commercial use. They cannot be sold, transmitted, distributed or reproduced in any form or by any means. I’ve worked hard to create the designs - please don’t sell my patterns - it’s just plain mean!
I am happy for you to donate, gift or sell any of the my crochet chums you make if you are an individual crafter - please credit mycrochetchums.com as the designer.
If you do wish to sell your my crochet chums, it is your responsibility to ensure that the finished item complies with the relevant toy legislation in your country.
Please be sure to use toy grade stuffing and do not add buttons, bells, ribbons etc that could be a danger to small children.
The patterns are copyright protected and are not for commercial use. They cannot be sold, transmitted, distributed or reproduced in any form or by any means. I’ve worked hard to create the designs - please don’t sell my patterns - it’s just plain mean!
About mycrochetchums
I started mycrochetchums at the end of 2020 to give me something to focus on during lockdown and to make creative use of a box of Aldi Amigurumi Yarn that was an impulse purchase I was feeling guilty about!
I’m loving creating these cute characters and sharpening my tech skills in the process as I wrangle with managing a website and social media.
Check out the mycrochetchums Facebook page - drop me a message there if you have any feedback about the pattern or would like to share a picture of the end result.
You can also find me on Instagram @mycrochetchums.
If you have any questions about any of my patterns (or any other ami you may be working on) please email me at: [email protected] - I’ll do my best to help!
Happy Crocheting!
Pia x
©PIA SIMPSON/ MYCROCHETCHUMS 2021
I started mycrochetchums at the end of 2020 to give me something to focus on during lockdown and to make creative use of a box of Aldi Amigurumi Yarn that was an impulse purchase I was feeling guilty about!
I’m loving creating these cute characters and sharpening my tech skills in the process as I wrangle with managing a website and social media.
Check out the mycrochetchums Facebook page - drop me a message there if you have any feedback about the pattern or would like to share a picture of the end result.
You can also find me on Instagram @mycrochetchums.
If you have any questions about any of my patterns (or any other ami you may be working on) please email me at: [email protected] - I’ll do my best to help!
Happy Crocheting!
Pia x
©PIA SIMPSON/ MYCROCHETCHUMS 2021