#lockdownamichallenge - No 24 - Mouse
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Yarn
Aldi So Crafty Knit & Purl Amigurumi Yarn - described on the box as "Light" - Equivalent to DK.
30g approx of Mid Blue (MC) for Body and Ears.
15g approx of Lilac (CC1) for Inner Ears, Feet, Tail, Eye Highlight and embroidery.
Small amount of Dark Blue (CC2) for Nose, Eyes and embroidery.
100% Cotton 25g = 57.5m
A cotton yarn works well for Ami as it gives good stitch definition and creates a firm structure so body parts hold their shape well. Any cotton/cotton mix DK should give similar results.
Aldi So Crafty Knit & Purl Amigurumi Yarn - described on the box as "Light" - Equivalent to DK.
30g approx of Mid Blue (MC) for Body and Ears.
15g approx of Lilac (CC1) for Inner Ears, Feet, Tail, Eye Highlight and embroidery.
Small amount of Dark Blue (CC2) for Nose, Eyes and embroidery.
100% Cotton 25g = 57.5m
A cotton yarn works well for Ami as it gives good stitch definition and creates a firm structure so body parts hold their shape well. Any cotton/cotton mix DK should give similar results.
Hook
3 mm
3 mm
Other Supplies
Yarn needle, toy stuffing, stitch marker/waste yarn.
Yarn needle, toy stuffing, stitch marker/waste yarn.
Tension
Tension is not critical for this project but stitches should be tight enough to avoid stuffing showing through.
Tension is not critical for this project but stitches should be tight enough to avoid stuffing showing through.
Size
Approx12cm (4.5in) long - plus tail.
Approx12cm (4.5in) long - plus tail.
Pattern Notes
Unless otherwise specified this pattern is worked in the amigurumi style, in a continuous spiral without slip stitching or turning chains.
Use a stitch marker or waste yarn to keep track of the first stitch of each round.
If you do not want to make a Magic Ring you can start each piece by making a chain of 2 and then work the first round into the second chain from the hook.
If you would like to start with a Magic Ring but don’t know how, you can find a Photo Tutorial HERE.
The Mouse is made of multiple separate pieces sewn together. Unless otherwise stated, finish each piece by pulling the yarn through the last loop and leave a long tail for sewing. Any loose tails at the end can be easily woven in.
Unless otherwise specified this pattern is worked in the amigurumi style, in a continuous spiral without slip stitching or turning chains.
Use a stitch marker or waste yarn to keep track of the first stitch of each round.
If you do not want to make a Magic Ring you can start each piece by making a chain of 2 and then work the first round into the second chain from the hook.
If you would like to start with a Magic Ring but don’t know how, you can find a Photo Tutorial HERE.
The Mouse is made of multiple separate pieces sewn together. Unless otherwise stated, finish each piece by pulling the yarn through the last loop and leave a long tail for sewing. Any loose tails at the end can be easily woven in.
Increasing and decreasing
The “invisible” techniques below are recommended to give your amigurumi a neat finish:
Invisible Increase: Work 1 dc in FLO of next st and 1 dc in both loops of same st.
Invisible decrease: Insert hook in FLO of the two stitches to be decreased, yrh, pull through both front loops, yrh, draw through two loops on hook.
The “invisible” techniques below are recommended to give your amigurumi a neat finish:
Invisible Increase: Work 1 dc in FLO of next st and 1 dc in both loops of same st.
Invisible decrease: Insert hook in FLO of the two stitches to be decreased, yrh, pull through both front loops, yrh, draw through two loops on hook.
UK Crochet Terms - Abbreviations
This pattern is written using UK Crochet Terms - they are NOT the same as US ones - please familiarise yourself with the UK terms to avoid your character’s shape distorting!
The “dc” abbreviation used in this pattern refers to UK double crochet. The equivalent stitch in US terms is single crochet - if you are used to US patterns you need to work single crochet everywhere this pattern says “dc”. If you work US dc (equivalent to UK Treble) the finished item will be elongated and the stuffing will show through.
If you are used to working in US Crochet Terms you can find a conversion chart HERE.
If you are unfamiliar with any of the terms used in this pattern, you can find a chart of the UK Crochet terms used HERE.
This pattern is written using UK Crochet Terms - they are NOT the same as US ones - please familiarise yourself with the UK terms to avoid your character’s shape distorting!
The “dc” abbreviation used in this pattern refers to UK double crochet. The equivalent stitch in US terms is single crochet - if you are used to US patterns you need to work single crochet everywhere this pattern says “dc”. If you work US dc (equivalent to UK Treble) the finished item will be elongated and the stuffing will show through.
If you are used to working in US Crochet Terms you can find a conversion chart HERE.
If you are unfamiliar with any of the terms used in this pattern, you can find a chart of the UK Crochet terms used HERE.
Mouse Right Side
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Mouse Back Left Side
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Body
Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: Dc around.
Rnd 3: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 4: Dc around.
Rnd 5: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 6: Dc around.
Rnd 7: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 8: Dc around.
Rnd 9: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnds 10-11: Dc around.
Rnd 12: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnd 13: Dc around.
Rnd 14: [5 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 42 sts
Rnds 15-25: Dc around.
Rnd 26: [5 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnd 27: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 28: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 29: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 30: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnd 31: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Fasten off. Weave yarn tail through stitches of last round and pull up to close hole.
Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: Dc around.
Rnd 3: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 4: Dc around.
Rnd 5: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 6: Dc around.
Rnd 7: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 8: Dc around.
Rnd 9: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnds 10-11: Dc around.
Rnd 12: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnd 13: Dc around.
Rnd 14: [5 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 42 sts
Rnds 15-25: Dc around.
Rnd 26: [5 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnd 27: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 28: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 29: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 30: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnd 31: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Fasten off. Weave yarn tail through stitches of last round and pull up to close hole.
Eye- make 2
Rnd 1: With CC2 and working into a magic ring, 4 dc, join with a sl st in beg dc. 4 sts
Fasten off.
Rnd 1: With CC2 and working into a magic ring, 4 dc, join with a sl st in beg dc. 4 sts
Fasten off.
Nose
Rnd 1: With CC2 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnd 3: Dc around.
Fasten off.
Rnd 1: With CC2 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnd 3: Dc around.
Fasten off.
Ear - make 2
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnds 5-9: Dc around.
Rnd 10: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 11: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnd 12: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Fasten off.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnds 5-9: Dc around.
Rnd 10: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 11: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnd 12: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Fasten off.
Inner Ear - make 2
Rnd 1: With CC1 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Fasten off.
Rnd 1: With CC1 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Fasten off.
Tail
Rnd 1: With CC1 and working into a magic ring, 3 dc. 3 sts
Rnds 2-19: Dc around.
Fasten off.
It can be difficult to keep track of rounds with so few stitches - the number of rounds is not crucial - you may find it easier to just dc around until the tail is approx 11 cm (4.5 in) long.
Rnd 1: With CC1 and working into a magic ring, 3 dc. 3 sts
Rnds 2-19: Dc around.
Fasten off.
It can be difficult to keep track of rounds with so few stitches - the number of rounds is not crucial - you may find it easier to just dc around until the tail is approx 11 cm (4.5 in) long.
Paw - make 4
Stuff very lightly.
Rnd 1: With CC1 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnd 3: Dc around.
Rnd 4: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 6 sts
Rnd 5: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] twice. 4 sts
Rnd 6: Dc around.
Fasten off.
Stuff very lightly.
Rnd 1: With CC1 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnd 3: Dc around.
Rnd 4: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 6 sts
Rnd 5: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] twice. 4 sts
Rnd 6: Dc around.
Fasten off.
Mouse Base - position of Paws
Making Up
Using the photographs as a guide, pin the pieces together first, checking from all angles to make sure you’re happy with the positioning, then use the long yarn tails or a length of yarn with a yarn needle to stitch the pieces together.
Sew Nose over first 4 rounds of Body.
Sew Eyes in place roughly in line with Rnd 10 of Body, approx 6 stitches apart.
Sew Inner Ears into the Ears.
Sew Ears in place roughly in line with Rnd 14 of Body, approx 8 stitches apart, evenly spaced in relation to the Eyes.
Sew Tail in place centred on last Rnd of Body.
Sew front Paws (angled outwards) to underside of Body, roughly in line with Rnd 17, about 5 stitches apart, aligned centrally in relation to Eyes and Ears.
Sew back Paws (angled outwards0 to underside of Body, roughly in line with Rnd 25, about 7 stitches apart, aligned centrally in relation to Eyes and Ears.
Using the photographs as a guide, pin the pieces together first, checking from all angles to make sure you’re happy with the positioning, then use the long yarn tails or a length of yarn with a yarn needle to stitch the pieces together.
Sew Nose over first 4 rounds of Body.
Sew Eyes in place roughly in line with Rnd 10 of Body, approx 6 stitches apart.
Sew Inner Ears into the Ears.
Sew Ears in place roughly in line with Rnd 14 of Body, approx 8 stitches apart, evenly spaced in relation to the Eyes.
Sew Tail in place centred on last Rnd of Body.
Sew front Paws (angled outwards) to underside of Body, roughly in line with Rnd 17, about 5 stitches apart, aligned centrally in relation to Eyes and Ears.
Sew back Paws (angled outwards0 to underside of Body, roughly in line with Rnd 25, about 7 stitches apart, aligned centrally in relation to Eyes and Ears.
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Embroidered Details
Using the photos as a guide, use CC1 to embroider the single stitch highlight on each Eye and to embroider the Mouth.
Use CC1 and CC2 to embroider the three rows of decorative stitching on the Mouse’s back.
All done, your Mouse is complete!
Using the photos as a guide, use CC1 to embroider the single stitch highlight on each Eye and to embroider the Mouth.
Use CC1 and CC2 to embroider the three rows of decorative stitching on the Mouse’s back.
All done, your Mouse is complete!
Terms of Use
I am happy for you to donate, gift or sell any of the my crochet chums you make if you are an individual crafter - please credit mycrochetchums.com as the designer.
If you do wish to sell your my crochet chums, it is your responsibility to ensure that the finished item complies with the relevant toy legislation in your country.
Please be sure to use toy grade stuffing and do not add buttons, bells, ribbons etc that could be a danger to small children.
The patterns are copyright protected and are not for commercial use. They cannot be sold, transmitted, distributed or reproduced in any form or by any means. I’ve worked hard to create the designs - please don’t sell my patterns - it’s just plain mean!
I am happy for you to donate, gift or sell any of the my crochet chums you make if you are an individual crafter - please credit mycrochetchums.com as the designer.
If you do wish to sell your my crochet chums, it is your responsibility to ensure that the finished item complies with the relevant toy legislation in your country.
Please be sure to use toy grade stuffing and do not add buttons, bells, ribbons etc that could be a danger to small children.
The patterns are copyright protected and are not for commercial use. They cannot be sold, transmitted, distributed or reproduced in any form or by any means. I’ve worked hard to create the designs - please don’t sell my patterns - it’s just plain mean!
About mycrochetchums
I started mycrochetchums at the end of 2020 to give me something to focus on during lockdown and to make creative use of a box of Aldi Amigurumi Yarn that was an impulse purchase I was feeling guilty about!
I’m loving creating these cute characters and sharpening my tech skills in the process as I wrangle with managing a website and social media.
Check out the mycrochetchums Facebook page - drop me a message there if you have any feedback about the pattern or would like to share a picture of the end result.
You can also find me on Instagram @mycrochetchums.
If you have any questions about any of my patterns (or any other ami you may be working on) please email me at: [email protected] - I’ll do my best to help!
Happy Crocheting!
Pia x
©PIA SIMPSON/ MYCROCHETCHUMS 2021
I started mycrochetchums at the end of 2020 to give me something to focus on during lockdown and to make creative use of a box of Aldi Amigurumi Yarn that was an impulse purchase I was feeling guilty about!
I’m loving creating these cute characters and sharpening my tech skills in the process as I wrangle with managing a website and social media.
Check out the mycrochetchums Facebook page - drop me a message there if you have any feedback about the pattern or would like to share a picture of the end result.
You can also find me on Instagram @mycrochetchums.
If you have any questions about any of my patterns (or any other ami you may be working on) please email me at: [email protected] - I’ll do my best to help!
Happy Crocheting!
Pia x
©PIA SIMPSON/ MYCROCHETCHUMS 2021
