#lockdownamichallenge - No 23 - Dinosaur
Scroll down for more pictures!
Yarn
Aldi So Crafty Knit & Purl Amigurumi Yarn - described on the box as "Light" - Equivalent to DK.
30g approx of Light Blue (MC) for Body, Head, Eyeballs, Nostrils, Arms, Legs and Tail.
15g approx ofRed (CC1) for Nose, Hands and Feet.
15g approx of Lime Green (CC2) for Spikes and Spots.
Small amount of Black (CC3) for Pupils and Mouth.
100% Cotton 25g = 57.5m
A cotton yarn works well for Ami as it gives good stitch definition and creates a firm structure so body parts hold their shape well. Any cotton/cotton mix DK should give similar results.
Hook
3 mm
Aldi So Crafty Knit & Purl Amigurumi Yarn - described on the box as "Light" - Equivalent to DK.
30g approx of Light Blue (MC) for Body, Head, Eyeballs, Nostrils, Arms, Legs and Tail.
15g approx ofRed (CC1) for Nose, Hands and Feet.
15g approx of Lime Green (CC2) for Spikes and Spots.
Small amount of Black (CC3) for Pupils and Mouth.
100% Cotton 25g = 57.5m
A cotton yarn works well for Ami as it gives good stitch definition and creates a firm structure so body parts hold their shape well. Any cotton/cotton mix DK should give similar results.
Hook
3 mm
Other Supplies
Yarn needle, toy stuffing, stitch marker/waste yarn.
Yarn needle, toy stuffing, stitch marker/waste yarn.
Tension
Tension is not critical for this project but stitches should be tight enough to avoid stuffing showing through.
Tension is not critical for this project but stitches should be tight enough to avoid stuffing showing through.
Size
Approx 20cm (8in) tall from bottom of Feet to top Spike.
Approx 20cm (8in) tall from bottom of Feet to top Spike.
Pattern Notes
Unless otherwise specified this pattern is worked in the amigurumi style, in a continuous spiral without slip stitching or turning chains.
Use a stitch marker or waste yarn to keep track of the first stitch of each round.
If you do not want to make a Magic Ring you can start each piece by making a chain of 2 and then work the first round into the second chain from the hook.
If you would like to start with a Magic Ring but don’t know how, you can find a Photo Tutorial HERE.
The Dinosaur is made of multiple separate pieces sewn together. Unless otherwise stated, finish each piece by pulling the yarn through the last loop and leave a long tail for sewing. Any loose tails at the end can be easily woven in.
Starting and turning chains do not count in the total stitch count.
Unless otherwise specified this pattern is worked in the amigurumi style, in a continuous spiral without slip stitching or turning chains.
Use a stitch marker or waste yarn to keep track of the first stitch of each round.
If you do not want to make a Magic Ring you can start each piece by making a chain of 2 and then work the first round into the second chain from the hook.
If you would like to start with a Magic Ring but don’t know how, you can find a Photo Tutorial HERE.
The Dinosaur is made of multiple separate pieces sewn together. Unless otherwise stated, finish each piece by pulling the yarn through the last loop and leave a long tail for sewing. Any loose tails at the end can be easily woven in.
Starting and turning chains do not count in the total stitch count.
Increasing and Decreasing
The “invisible” techniques below are recommended to give your amigurumi a neat finish:
Invisible Increase: Work 1 dc in FLO of next st and 1 dc in both loops of same st.
Invisible decrease: Insert hook in FLO of the two stitches to be decreased, yrh, pull through both front loops, yrh, draw through two loops on hook.
The “invisible” techniques below are recommended to give your amigurumi a neat finish:
Invisible Increase: Work 1 dc in FLO of next st and 1 dc in both loops of same st.
Invisible decrease: Insert hook in FLO of the two stitches to be decreased, yrh, pull through both front loops, yrh, draw through two loops on hook.
UK Crochet Terms - Abbreviations
This pattern is written using UK Crochet Terms - they are NOT the same as US ones - please familiarise yourself with the UK terms to avoid your character’s shape distorting!
The “dc” abbreviation used in this pattern refers to UK double crochet. The equivalent stitch in US terms is single crochet - if you are used to US patterns you need to work single crochet everywhere this pattern says “dc”. If you work US dc (equivalent to UK Treble) the finished item will be elongated and the stuffing will show through.
Likewise, the “htr” abbreviation used in this pattern (for theist 2 rounds of the Body) refers to UK Half Treble crochet. The equivalent stitch in US terms is half double crochet (hdc)- if you are used to US patterns you need to work a hdc everywhere this pattern says “htr”.
If you are used to working in US Crochet Terms you can find a conversion chart HERE.
If you are unfamiliar with any of the terms used in this pattern, you can find a chart of the UK Crochet terms HERE.
This pattern is written using UK Crochet Terms - they are NOT the same as US ones - please familiarise yourself with the UK terms to avoid your character’s shape distorting!
The “dc” abbreviation used in this pattern refers to UK double crochet. The equivalent stitch in US terms is single crochet - if you are used to US patterns you need to work single crochet everywhere this pattern says “dc”. If you work US dc (equivalent to UK Treble) the finished item will be elongated and the stuffing will show through.
Likewise, the “htr” abbreviation used in this pattern (for theist 2 rounds of the Body) refers to UK Half Treble crochet. The equivalent stitch in US terms is half double crochet (hdc)- if you are used to US patterns you need to work a hdc everywhere this pattern says “htr”.
If you are used to working in US Crochet Terms you can find a conversion chart HERE.
If you are unfamiliar with any of the terms used in this pattern, you can find a chart of the UK Crochet terms HERE.
Dino Back Right
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Dino Front Left
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More pics further down...
Head
If you are unfamiliar with starting an ami pattern with a chain, check out the Oval Start Photo Tutorial HERE.
Stuff as you go.
With CC1 chain 4.
Rnd 1: Starting in 2nd chain from hook and rotating as you go, [3 dc, 2 ch] twice. 6 sts
Rnd 2: [3dc, 3 dc in 2 ch sp] twice. 12 sts
Rnd 3: 2 dc in next st, 3 dc, [2 dc in next st] 3 times, 3 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice. 18 sts
Rnd 4: 1 dc, 2 dc in next st, 4 dc, [2 dc in next st, 1 dc] 3 times, 3 dc, 2 dc in next st, 1 dc, 2 dc in next st. 24 sts
Rnd 5: Dc around.
Rnd 6: 2 dc, 2 dc in next st, 5 dc, [2 dc in next st, 2dc] 3 times, 3 dc, 2 dc in next st, 2 dc, 2 dc in next st. 30 sts
Rnds 7-9: Dc around.
Rnds 10: 8 dc, change to MC, 22 dc. 30 sts
Rnd 11: Dc around.
Rnd 12: {3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnds 13-15: Dc around.
Rnd 16: [6 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 21 sts
Rnds 17-19: Dc around.
Rnd 20: [5 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 18 sts
Rnd 21: Dc around.
Rnd 22: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnd 23: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Fasten off.
If you are unfamiliar with starting an ami pattern with a chain, check out the Oval Start Photo Tutorial HERE.
Stuff as you go.
With CC1 chain 4.
Rnd 1: Starting in 2nd chain from hook and rotating as you go, [3 dc, 2 ch] twice. 6 sts
Rnd 2: [3dc, 3 dc in 2 ch sp] twice. 12 sts
Rnd 3: 2 dc in next st, 3 dc, [2 dc in next st] 3 times, 3 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice. 18 sts
Rnd 4: 1 dc, 2 dc in next st, 4 dc, [2 dc in next st, 1 dc] 3 times, 3 dc, 2 dc in next st, 1 dc, 2 dc in next st. 24 sts
Rnd 5: Dc around.
Rnd 6: 2 dc, 2 dc in next st, 5 dc, [2 dc in next st, 2dc] 3 times, 3 dc, 2 dc in next st, 2 dc, 2 dc in next st. 30 sts
Rnds 7-9: Dc around.
Rnds 10: 8 dc, change to MC, 22 dc. 30 sts
Rnd 11: Dc around.
Rnd 12: {3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnds 13-15: Dc around.
Rnd 16: [6 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 21 sts
Rnds 17-19: Dc around.
Rnd 20: [5 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 18 sts
Rnd 21: Dc around.
Rnd 22: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnd 23: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Fasten off.
Body
Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 6: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnds 7-12: Dc around.
Rnd 13: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnds 14-15: Dc around.
Rnd 16: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 17: Dc around.
Rnd 18: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnds 19-24: Dc around.
Rnd 25: 13 dc, 5 htr. 18 sts
Rnd 26: 5 htr, 13 dc. 18 sts
Fasten off.
Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 6: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnds 7-12: Dc around.
Rnd 13: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnds 14-15: Dc around.
Rnd 16: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 17: Dc around.
Rnd 18: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnds 19-24: Dc around.
Rnd 25: 13 dc, 5 htr. 18 sts
Rnd 26: 5 htr, 13 dc. 18 sts
Fasten off.
Tail
Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 4 dc. 4 sts
Rnd 2: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] twice. 6 sts
Rnd 3: Dc around.
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] twice. 8 sts
Rnd 5: Dc around.
Rnd 6: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] twice. 10 sts
Rnd 7: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] twice. 12 sts
Rnd 8: [5 dc, 2 dc in next st] twice. 14 sts
Rnd 9: [6 dc, 2 dc in next st] twice. 16 sts
Rnd 10: [7 dc, 2 dc in next st] twice. 18 sts
Rnd 11: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 12: Dc around.
Rnd 13: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 14: Dc around.
Fasten off.
Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 4 dc. 4 sts
Rnd 2: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] twice. 6 sts
Rnd 3: Dc around.
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] twice. 8 sts
Rnd 5: Dc around.
Rnd 6: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] twice. 10 sts
Rnd 7: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] twice. 12 sts
Rnd 8: [5 dc, 2 dc in next st] twice. 14 sts
Rnd 9: [6 dc, 2 dc in next st] twice. 16 sts
Rnd 10: [7 dc, 2 dc in next st] twice. 18 sts
Rnd 11: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 12: Dc around.
Rnd 13: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 14: Dc around.
Fasten off.
Pupil- make 2
Rnd 1: With CC3 and working into a magic ring, 4 dc, join with a sl st in beg dc. 4 sts
Fasten off.
Rnd 1: With CC3 and working into a magic ring, 4 dc, join with a sl st in beg dc. 4 sts
Fasten off.
Eyeball - make 2
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnd 3: Dc around.
Rnd 4: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 6 sts
Fasten off. Weave yarn tail through last round and pull tight to close hole.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnd 3: Dc around.
Rnd 4: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 6 sts
Fasten off. Weave yarn tail through last round and pull tight to close hole.
Nostrils - make 2
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc, join with a sl st in beg dc. 6 sts
Fasten off.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc, join with a sl st in beg dc. 6 sts
Fasten off.
Arm - make 2
Stuff arm about two thirds full.
Rnd 1: With CC1 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: [2 dc in next st, 1 dc] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnds 3-4: Dc around.
Change to MC.
Rnds 5-6: Dc around.
Rnd 7: 1 dc2tog, 7 dc. 8 sts
Rnd 8: Dc around.
Rnd 9: 1 dc2 tog, 6 dc. 7 sts
Rnd 10: Dc around.
Rnd 11: 1 dc2tog, 5 dc. 6 sts
Fasten off.
Stuff arm about two thirds full.
Rnd 1: With CC1 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: [2 dc in next st, 1 dc] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnds 3-4: Dc around.
Change to MC.
Rnds 5-6: Dc around.
Rnd 7: 1 dc2tog, 7 dc. 8 sts
Rnd 8: Dc around.
Rnd 9: 1 dc2 tog, 6 dc. 7 sts
Rnd 10: Dc around.
Rnd 11: 1 dc2tog, 5 dc. 6 sts
Fasten off.
Leg - make 2
Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With CC1 and working in a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: Dc around.
Rnd 5: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times, 9 dc. 15 sts
Rnd 6: 3 dc2tog, 9 dc. 12 sts
Rnd 7: 8 dc, change to MC, 4 dc. 12 sts
Rnd 8: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnds 9-14: Dc around.
Fasten off.
Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With CC1 and working in a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: Dc around.
Rnd 5: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times, 9 dc. 15 sts
Rnd 6: 3 dc2tog, 9 dc. 12 sts
Rnd 7: 8 dc, change to MC, 4 dc. 12 sts
Rnd 8: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnds 9-14: Dc around.
Fasten off.
Big Spike - make 6
Rnd 1: With CC2 and working into a magic ring, 4 dc. 4 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in next st, 3 dc. 5 sts
Rnd 3: 2 dc in next st, 4 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 4: 2 dc in next st, 5 dc. 7 sts
Rnd 5: 2 dc in next st, 6 dc. 8 sts
Fasten off.
Rnd 1: With CC2 and working into a magic ring, 4 dc. 4 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in next st, 3 dc. 5 sts
Rnd 3: 2 dc in next st, 4 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 4: 2 dc in next st, 5 dc. 7 sts
Rnd 5: 2 dc in next st, 6 dc. 8 sts
Fasten off.
Medium Spike - make 1
Work Rnds 1-4 only of Big Spike pattern above.
Fasten off.
Work Rnds 1-4 only of Big Spike pattern above.
Fasten off.
Small Spike - make 1
Work Rnds 1-3 only of Big Spike pattern above.
Fasten off.
Work Rnds 1-3 only of Big Spike pattern above.
Fasten off.
Big Spot - make 2
Rnd 1: With CC2 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Fasten off.
Rnd 1: With CC2 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Fasten off.
Small Spot - make 3
Rnd 1: With CC2 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: [ 2 dc in next st, 1 dc] 3 times. 9 sts
Fasten off.
Rnd 1: With CC2 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: [ 2 dc in next st, 1 dc] 3 times. 9 sts
Fasten off.
Dino Base
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Dino Back Left
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Making Up
Using the photographs as a guide, pin the pieces together first, checking from all angles to make sure you’re happy with the positioning, then use the long yarn tails or a length of yarn with a yarn needle to stitch the pieces together.
Looking at the Body, the lower part of the “neck” is the front and the higher part the back - sew the Body onto Head so that the back of the neck sits roughly in line with Rnd 21 of the Head.
Sew the Eyeballs in place roughly in line with Rnd 16 of the Head, about 4 stitches apart so that there is room for the Spike on top of the Head to sit between them.
Sew the Pupils onto the Eyeballs facing forward.
Sew the Nostrils onto the Head, roughly in line with Rnd 6, about 4 stitches apart.
Sew the Tail onto the back of the Body, lining it up with the Head, with it’s bottom edge roughly in line with Rnd 3 of the Body.
Starting at the end of the Tail, stitch the Spikes into place, starting with the small one, then the medium one and then sew the 6 large ones up the Dinosaur’s spine and the back of his Head.
Sew the Arms to the sides of the Body, roughly in line with Rnd 20.
Sew the Legs in position on the base of the Body - see photo for position.
Sew one Big Spot to the bottom right area of the Dinosaurs belly and the other to the left side of the Body - see photos.
Sew one Small Spot to the right side of the tail, one on the right side of the belly above the big Spot and the last to the left side of the Body where the Tail joins it.
Using the photographs as a guide, pin the pieces together first, checking from all angles to make sure you’re happy with the positioning, then use the long yarn tails or a length of yarn with a yarn needle to stitch the pieces together.
Looking at the Body, the lower part of the “neck” is the front and the higher part the back - sew the Body onto Head so that the back of the neck sits roughly in line with Rnd 21 of the Head.
Sew the Eyeballs in place roughly in line with Rnd 16 of the Head, about 4 stitches apart so that there is room for the Spike on top of the Head to sit between them.
Sew the Pupils onto the Eyeballs facing forward.
Sew the Nostrils onto the Head, roughly in line with Rnd 6, about 4 stitches apart.
Sew the Tail onto the back of the Body, lining it up with the Head, with it’s bottom edge roughly in line with Rnd 3 of the Body.
Starting at the end of the Tail, stitch the Spikes into place, starting with the small one, then the medium one and then sew the 6 large ones up the Dinosaur’s spine and the back of his Head.
Sew the Arms to the sides of the Body, roughly in line with Rnd 20.
Sew the Legs in position on the base of the Body - see photo for position.
Sew one Big Spot to the bottom right area of the Dinosaurs belly and the other to the left side of the Body - see photos.
Sew one Small Spot to the right side of the tail, one on the right side of the belly above the big Spot and the last to the left side of the Body where the Tail joins it.
Dino Right Side
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Dino Front
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Embroidered Details
Using the photo as a guide, use CC2 to embroider the single stitch highlight on each Pupil and CC3 to embroider the Mouth.
All done, your Dinosaur is complete!
Using the photo as a guide, use CC2 to embroider the single stitch highlight on each Pupil and CC3 to embroider the Mouth.
All done, your Dinosaur is complete!
Terms of Use
I am happy for you to donate, gift or sell any of the my crochet chums you make if you are an individual crafter - please credit mycrochetchums.com as the designer.
If you do wish to sell your my crochet chums, it is your responsibility to ensure that the finished item complies with the relevant toy legislation in your country.
Please be sure to use toy grade stuffing and do not add buttons, bells, ribbons etc that could be a danger to small children.
The patterns are copyright protected and are not for commercial use. They cannot be sold, transmitted, distributed or reproduced in any form or by any means. I’ve worked hard to create the designs - please don’t sell my patterns - it’s just plain mean!
I am happy for you to donate, gift or sell any of the my crochet chums you make if you are an individual crafter - please credit mycrochetchums.com as the designer.
If you do wish to sell your my crochet chums, it is your responsibility to ensure that the finished item complies with the relevant toy legislation in your country.
Please be sure to use toy grade stuffing and do not add buttons, bells, ribbons etc that could be a danger to small children.
The patterns are copyright protected and are not for commercial use. They cannot be sold, transmitted, distributed or reproduced in any form or by any means. I’ve worked hard to create the designs - please don’t sell my patterns - it’s just plain mean!
About mycrochetchums
I started mycrochetchums at the end of 2020 to give me something to focus on during lockdown and to make creative use of a box of Aldi Amigurumi Yarn that was an impulse purchase I was feeling guilty about!
I’m loving creating these cute characters and sharpening my tech skills in the process as I wrangle with managing a website and social media.
Check out the mycrochetchums Facebook page - drop me a message there if you have any feedback about the pattern or would like to share a picture of the end result.
You can also find me on Instagram @mycrochetchums.
Happy Crocheting!
Pia x
©PIA SIMPSON/ MYCROCHETCHUMS 2021
I started mycrochetchums at the end of 2020 to give me something to focus on during lockdown and to make creative use of a box of Aldi Amigurumi Yarn that was an impulse purchase I was feeling guilty about!
I’m loving creating these cute characters and sharpening my tech skills in the process as I wrangle with managing a website and social media.
Check out the mycrochetchums Facebook page - drop me a message there if you have any feedback about the pattern or would like to share a picture of the end result.
You can also find me on Instagram @mycrochetchums.
Happy Crocheting!
Pia x
©PIA SIMPSON/ MYCROCHETCHUMS 2021
