#lockdownamichallenge - No 22 - Koala
No 22 Koala
Scroll down for more pictures!
Yarn
Aldi So Crafty Knit & Purl Amigurumi Yarn - described on the box as "Light" - Equivalent to DK.
30g approx of Grey (MC) for Body, Head, Ears, arms and Legs.
10g approx of Light Grey (CC1) for Belly Patch, Inner Ears and Eye Highlights.
10g approx of Dark Grey (CC2) for Nose, Feet and Claw detail.
Small amount of Black (CC3) for Pupils and Mouth.
100% Cotton 25g = 57.5m
A cotton yarn works well for Ami as it gives good stitch definition and creates a firm structure so body parts hold their shape well. Any cotton/cotton mix DK should give similar results.
Hook
3 mm
Aldi So Crafty Knit & Purl Amigurumi Yarn - described on the box as "Light" - Equivalent to DK.
30g approx of Grey (MC) for Body, Head, Ears, arms and Legs.
10g approx of Light Grey (CC1) for Belly Patch, Inner Ears and Eye Highlights.
10g approx of Dark Grey (CC2) for Nose, Feet and Claw detail.
Small amount of Black (CC3) for Pupils and Mouth.
100% Cotton 25g = 57.5m
A cotton yarn works well for Ami as it gives good stitch definition and creates a firm structure so body parts hold their shape well. Any cotton/cotton mix DK should give similar results.
Hook
3 mm
Other Supplies
Yarn needle, toy stuffing, stitch marker/waste yarn.
Yarn needle, toy stuffing, stitch marker/waste yarn.
Tension
Tension is not critical for this project but stitches should be tight enough to avoid stuffing showing through.
Tension is not critical for this project but stitches should be tight enough to avoid stuffing showing through.
Size
Approx 20cm (8in) tall from bottom of Feet to top of Ear.
Approx 20cm (8in) tall from bottom of Feet to top of Ear.
Pattern Notes
Unless otherwise specified this pattern is worked in the amigurumi style, in a continuous spiral without slip stitching or turning chains.
Use a stitch marker or waste yarn to keep track of the first stitch of each round.
If you do not want to make a Magic Ring you can start each piece by making a chain of 2 and then work the first round into the second chain from the hook.
If you would like to start with a Magic Ring but don’t know how, you can find a Photo Tutorial at:https://www.mycrochetchums.com/magic-ring-photo-tutorial.html
The Koala is made of multiple separate pieces sewn together. Unless otherwise stated, finish each piece by pulling the yarn through the last loop and leave a long tail for sewing. Any loose tails at the end can be easily woven in.
Starting and turning chains do not count in the total stitch count.
Unless otherwise specified this pattern is worked in the amigurumi style, in a continuous spiral without slip stitching or turning chains.
Use a stitch marker or waste yarn to keep track of the first stitch of each round.
If you do not want to make a Magic Ring you can start each piece by making a chain of 2 and then work the first round into the second chain from the hook.
If you would like to start with a Magic Ring but don’t know how, you can find a Photo Tutorial at:https://www.mycrochetchums.com/magic-ring-photo-tutorial.html
The Koala is made of multiple separate pieces sewn together. Unless otherwise stated, finish each piece by pulling the yarn through the last loop and leave a long tail for sewing. Any loose tails at the end can be easily woven in.
Starting and turning chains do not count in the total stitch count.
Increasing and Decreasing
The “invisible” techniques below are recommended to give your amigurumi a neat finish:
Invisible Increase: Work 1 dc in FLO of next st and 1 dc in both loops of same st.
Invisible decrease: Insert hook in FLO of the two stitches to be decreased, yrh, pull through both front loops, yrh, draw through two loops on hook.
The “invisible” techniques below are recommended to give your amigurumi a neat finish:
Invisible Increase: Work 1 dc in FLO of next st and 1 dc in both loops of same st.
Invisible decrease: Insert hook in FLO of the two stitches to be decreased, yrh, pull through both front loops, yrh, draw through two loops on hook.
UK Crochet Terms - Abbreviations
This pattern is written using UK Crochet Terms - they are NOT the same as US ones - please familiarise yourself with the UK terms to avoid your character’s shape distorting!
The “dc” abbreviation used in this pattern refers to UK double crochet. The equivalent stitch in US terms is single crochet - if you are used to US patterns you need to work single crochet everywhere this pattern says “dc”. If you work US dc (equivalent to UK Treble) the finished item will be elongated and the stuffing will show through.
If you are used to working in US Crochet Terms you can find a conversion chart HERE.
If you are unfamiliar with any of the terms used in this pattern, you can find a chart of the UK Crochet terms used HERE.
This pattern is written using UK Crochet Terms - they are NOT the same as US ones - please familiarise yourself with the UK terms to avoid your character’s shape distorting!
The “dc” abbreviation used in this pattern refers to UK double crochet. The equivalent stitch in US terms is single crochet - if you are used to US patterns you need to work single crochet everywhere this pattern says “dc”. If you work US dc (equivalent to UK Treble) the finished item will be elongated and the stuffing will show through.
If you are used to working in US Crochet Terms you can find a conversion chart HERE.
If you are unfamiliar with any of the terms used in this pattern, you can find a chart of the UK Crochet terms used HERE.
Koala Back Left
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Koala Front Right
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Head
If you are unfamiliar with starting an ami pattern with a chain, check out the Oval Start Photo Tutorial HERE.
Stuff as you go.
With MC chain 7.
Rnd 1: Starting in 2nd chain from hook and rotating as you go, [6 dc, 2 ch] twice. 12 sts
Rnd 2: [6 dc, 3 dc in 2 ch sp] twice. 18 sts
Rnd 3: *6 dc, [2 dc in next st] 3 times; rep from * one more time. 24 sts
Rnd 4: 1 dc, 2 dc in next st, [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 5 times, 2 dc. 30 sts
Rnd 5: 2 dc, 2 dc in next st, [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 5 times, 2 dc. 36 sts
Rnd 6: Dc around.
Rnd 7: 3 dc, 2 dc in next st, [5 dc, 2 dc in next st] 5 times, 2 dc. 42 sts
Rnds 8-11: Dc around.
Rnd 12: [1 dc2tog, 5 dc] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnd 13: Dc around.
Rnd 14: [1 dc2tog, 4 dc] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 15: Dc around.
Rnd 16: [1 dc2tog, 3 dc] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 17: Dc around.
Rnd 18: [1 dc2tog, 2 dc] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 19: [1 dc2tog, 1 dc] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnd 20: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Fasten off.
If you are unfamiliar with starting an ami pattern with a chain, check out the Oval Start Photo Tutorial HERE.
Stuff as you go.
With MC chain 7.
Rnd 1: Starting in 2nd chain from hook and rotating as you go, [6 dc, 2 ch] twice. 12 sts
Rnd 2: [6 dc, 3 dc in 2 ch sp] twice. 18 sts
Rnd 3: *6 dc, [2 dc in next st] 3 times; rep from * one more time. 24 sts
Rnd 4: 1 dc, 2 dc in next st, [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 5 times, 2 dc. 30 sts
Rnd 5: 2 dc, 2 dc in next st, [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 5 times, 2 dc. 36 sts
Rnd 6: Dc around.
Rnd 7: 3 dc, 2 dc in next st, [5 dc, 2 dc in next st] 5 times, 2 dc. 42 sts
Rnds 8-11: Dc around.
Rnd 12: [1 dc2tog, 5 dc] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnd 13: Dc around.
Rnd 14: [1 dc2tog, 4 dc] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 15: Dc around.
Rnd 16: [1 dc2tog, 3 dc] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 17: Dc around.
Rnd 18: [1 dc2tog, 2 dc] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 19: [1 dc2tog, 1 dc] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnd 20: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Fasten off.
Body
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 6: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnds 7-11: Dc around.
Rnd 12: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnds 13-15: Dc around.
Rnd 16: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnds 17-18: Dc around.
Rnd 19: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 20: Dc around.
Fasten off. Stuff the Body.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 6: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnds 7-11: Dc around.
Rnd 12: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnds 13-15: Dc around.
Rnd 16: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnds 17-18: Dc around.
Rnd 19: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 20: Dc around.
Fasten off. Stuff the Body.
Ear - make 2
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnds 5-8: Dc around.
Fasten off.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnds 5-8: Dc around.
Fasten off.
Inner Ear - make 2
Rnd 1: With CC1 and working into a magic ring, 5 dc. Turn. 5 sts
Rnd 2: 1 ch, 2 dc in each st across. 10 sts
Fasten off.
Rnd 1: With CC1 and working into a magic ring, 5 dc. Turn. 5 sts
Rnd 2: 1 ch, 2 dc in each st across. 10 sts
Fasten off.
Belly Patch
Worked in turned rows.
With CC1 chain 6.
Row 1: Starting in the second chain from the hook, 5 dc. Turn. 5 sts
Row 2: 1 ch, 2 dc in next st, 3 dc, 2 dc in next st. Turn. 7 sts
Row 3: 1 ch, 2 dc in next st, 5 dc, 2 dc in next st. Turn. 9 sts
Row 4: 1 ch, 2 dc in next st, 7 dc, 2 dc in next st. Turn. 11 sts
Row 5: 1 ch, dc across. Turn.
Row 6: 1 ch, 2 dc in next st, 9 dc, 2 dc in next st. Turn. 13 sts
Rows 7-8: 1 ch, dc across. Turn.
Row 9: 1 ch, 1 dc2tog, 9 dc, 1 dc2tog. Turn. 11 sts
Rows 10-11: 1 ch, dc across. Turn.
Row 12: 1 ch, 1 dc2tog, 7 dc, 1 dc2tog. Turn. 9 sts
Row 13: 1 ch, dc across. Turn.
Row 14: 1 ch, 1 dc2tog, 5 dc, 1 dc2tog. Turn. 7 sts
Row 15: 1 ch, dc across. DO NOT TURN.
To neaten edge, now work 1 dc in the end of each row down the side, 1 dc in each of the 5 unused loops of the starting chain along the bottom and 1 dc in the end of each row up the other side, back up to the start of Row 15.
Fasten off.
Worked in turned rows.
With CC1 chain 6.
Row 1: Starting in the second chain from the hook, 5 dc. Turn. 5 sts
Row 2: 1 ch, 2 dc in next st, 3 dc, 2 dc in next st. Turn. 7 sts
Row 3: 1 ch, 2 dc in next st, 5 dc, 2 dc in next st. Turn. 9 sts
Row 4: 1 ch, 2 dc in next st, 7 dc, 2 dc in next st. Turn. 11 sts
Row 5: 1 ch, dc across. Turn.
Row 6: 1 ch, 2 dc in next st, 9 dc, 2 dc in next st. Turn. 13 sts
Rows 7-8: 1 ch, dc across. Turn.
Row 9: 1 ch, 1 dc2tog, 9 dc, 1 dc2tog. Turn. 11 sts
Rows 10-11: 1 ch, dc across. Turn.
Row 12: 1 ch, 1 dc2tog, 7 dc, 1 dc2tog. Turn. 9 sts
Row 13: 1 ch, dc across. Turn.
Row 14: 1 ch, 1 dc2tog, 5 dc, 1 dc2tog. Turn. 7 sts
Row 15: 1 ch, dc across. DO NOT TURN.
To neaten edge, now work 1 dc in the end of each row down the side, 1 dc in each of the 5 unused loops of the starting chain along the bottom and 1 dc in the end of each row up the other side, back up to the start of Row 15.
Fasten off.
Eye - make 2
Rnd 1: With CC3 and working into a magic ring, 4 dc, join with a sl st in beg dc. 4 sts
Fasten off.
Rnd 1: With CC3 and working into a magic ring, 4 dc, join with a sl st in beg dc. 4 sts
Fasten off.
Nose
With CC2, chain 4.
Rnd 1: Starting in the second ch from the hook, [3 dc, 2 ch] twice. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 3 dc, 3 dc in 2 ch-sp, 3 dc, 4 dc in 2 ch-sp. 13 sts
Rnd 3: 2 dc in next st, * 3 dc, [2 dc in next st] 3 times; rep from * once more. 20 sts
Rnd 4: Dc across.
Fasten off. Stuff nose.
With CC2, chain 4.
Rnd 1: Starting in the second ch from the hook, [3 dc, 2 ch] twice. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 3 dc, 3 dc in 2 ch-sp, 3 dc, 4 dc in 2 ch-sp. 13 sts
Rnd 3: 2 dc in next st, * 3 dc, [2 dc in next st] 3 times; rep from * once more. 20 sts
Rnd 4: Dc across.
Fasten off. Stuff nose.
Arm - make 2
Stuff arm about two thirds full.
Rnd 1: With MC and working in a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnds 4-5: Dc around.
Rnd 6: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times, 9 dc. 15 sts
Rnd 7: 3 dc2tog, 9 dc. 12 sts
Rnd 8: 2 dc2tog, 3 dc, 1 dc2tog, 3 dc. 9 sts
Rnd 9: Dc around.
Rnd 10: 4 dc, 1 dc2tog, 3 dc. 8 sts
Rnds 11-13: Dc around.
Fasten off.
Stuff arm about two thirds full.
Rnd 1: With MC and working in a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnds 4-5: Dc around.
Rnd 6: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times, 9 dc. 15 sts
Rnd 7: 3 dc2tog, 9 dc. 12 sts
Rnd 8: 2 dc2tog, 3 dc, 1 dc2tog, 3 dc. 9 sts
Rnd 9: Dc around.
Rnd 10: 4 dc, 1 dc2tog, 3 dc. 8 sts
Rnds 11-13: Dc around.
Fasten off.
Leg - make 2
Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With CC2 and working in a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Change colour to MC.
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: 6 dc, 1 dc2tog, [2 dc, 1 dc2 tog] twice, 8 dc. 21 sts
Rnd 6: 7 dc, 1 dc2tog, 1 dc, 1 dc2tog, 7 dc, 1 dc2tog. 18 sts
Rnd 7: 6 dc, 2 dc2tog, 6 dc, 1 dc2tog. 15 sts
Rnd 8: 4dc, 1 dc2tog, 1 dc, 1 dc2tog, 4 dc, 1 dc2tog. 12 sts
Rnds 9- 10: Dc around.
Rnd 11: 6 dc, 1 dc2tog, 4 dc. 11 sts
Rnd 12: Dc around.
Rnd 13: 7 dc, 1 dc2tog, 2 dc. 10 sts
Rnd 14: 6 dc, 1 dc2tog, 2 dc. 9 sts
Fasten off.
Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With CC2 and working in a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Change colour to MC.
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: 6 dc, 1 dc2tog, [2 dc, 1 dc2 tog] twice, 8 dc. 21 sts
Rnd 6: 7 dc, 1 dc2tog, 1 dc, 1 dc2tog, 7 dc, 1 dc2tog. 18 sts
Rnd 7: 6 dc, 2 dc2tog, 6 dc, 1 dc2tog. 15 sts
Rnd 8: 4dc, 1 dc2tog, 1 dc, 1 dc2tog, 4 dc, 1 dc2tog. 12 sts
Rnds 9- 10: Dc around.
Rnd 11: 6 dc, 1 dc2tog, 4 dc. 11 sts
Rnd 12: Dc around.
Rnd 13: 7 dc, 1 dc2tog, 2 dc. 10 sts
Rnd 14: 6 dc, 1 dc2tog, 2 dc. 9 sts
Fasten off.
Koala Base
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Koala Right Side
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Making Up
Using the photographs as a guide, pin the pieces together first, checking from all angles to make sure you’re happy with the positioning, then use the long yarn tails or a length of yarn with a yarn needle to stitch the pieces together.
Sew the Body to the Head.
Use one of the flat wide sides of the Head to create the face. Stitch the Nose in place centred on the face, with the narrow end towards the top of the Head and the top of the Nose sitting in line with Rnd 13 of the Head.
Stitch the Eyes in place either side of the top of the Nose.
Sew the Ears in place, slightly curved. The top edge of the Ear should be roughly in line with Rnd 18 of the Head, and the bottom edge in line with Rnd 8 of the Head.
Sew the half moon Inner Ears inside the Ears.
Sew the Belly Patch to the front of the Body centred on the centre line of the Head and with the straight edge of Row 15 of the Belly patch butted up to the seam that joins the Body and Head together.
Sew the Arms in place on either side of the Body with them angled so that the paws curve inwards towards each other (imagine the Koala hugging a tree!).
Sew the Legs in place on the base of the Body.
Using the photographs as a guide, pin the pieces together first, checking from all angles to make sure you’re happy with the positioning, then use the long yarn tails or a length of yarn with a yarn needle to stitch the pieces together.
Sew the Body to the Head.
Use one of the flat wide sides of the Head to create the face. Stitch the Nose in place centred on the face, with the narrow end towards the top of the Head and the top of the Nose sitting in line with Rnd 13 of the Head.
Stitch the Eyes in place either side of the top of the Nose.
Sew the Ears in place, slightly curved. The top edge of the Ear should be roughly in line with Rnd 18 of the Head, and the bottom edge in line with Rnd 8 of the Head.
Sew the half moon Inner Ears inside the Ears.
Sew the Belly Patch to the front of the Body centred on the centre line of the Head and with the straight edge of Row 15 of the Belly patch butted up to the seam that joins the Body and Head together.
Sew the Arms in place on either side of the Body with them angled so that the paws curve inwards towards each other (imagine the Koala hugging a tree!).
Sew the Legs in place on the base of the Body.
Koala "Foot" Detail
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Koala "Hand" Detail
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Embroidered Details
Using the photo as a guide, use CC1 to embroider the single stitch highlight on each eye and CC2 to embroider 3 “claws” on each of the Arms and Legs. Use CC3 to embroider the mouth.
All done, your Koala is complete!
Using the photo as a guide, use CC1 to embroider the single stitch highlight on each eye and CC2 to embroider 3 “claws” on each of the Arms and Legs. Use CC3 to embroider the mouth.
All done, your Koala is complete!
Terms of Use
I am happy for you to donate, gift or sell any of the my crochet chums you make if you are an individual crafter - please credit mycrochetchums.com as the designer.
If you do wish to sell your my crochet chums, it is your responsibility to ensure that the finished item complies with the relevant toy legislation in your country.
Please be sure to use toy grade stuffing and do not add buttons, bells, ribbons etc that could be a danger to small children.
The patterns are copyright protected and are not for commercial use. They cannot be sold, transmitted, distributed or reproduced in any form or by any means. I’ve worked hard to create the designs - please don’t sell my patterns - it’s just plain mean!
I am happy for you to donate, gift or sell any of the my crochet chums you make if you are an individual crafter - please credit mycrochetchums.com as the designer.
If you do wish to sell your my crochet chums, it is your responsibility to ensure that the finished item complies with the relevant toy legislation in your country.
Please be sure to use toy grade stuffing and do not add buttons, bells, ribbons etc that could be a danger to small children.
The patterns are copyright protected and are not for commercial use. They cannot be sold, transmitted, distributed or reproduced in any form or by any means. I’ve worked hard to create the designs - please don’t sell my patterns - it’s just plain mean!
About mycrochetchums
I started mycrochetchums at the end of 2020 to give me something to focus on during lockdown and to make creative use of a box of Aldi Amigurumi Yarn that was an impulse purchase I was feeling guilty about!
I’m loving creating these cute characters and sharpening my tech skills in the process as I wrangle with managing a website and social media.
Check out the mycrochetchums Facebook page - drop me a message there if you have any feedback about the pattern or would like to share a picture of the end result.
You can also find me on Instagram @mycrochetchums.
Happy Crocheting!
Pia x
©PIA SIMPSON/ MYCROCHETCHUMS 2021
I started mycrochetchums at the end of 2020 to give me something to focus on during lockdown and to make creative use of a box of Aldi Amigurumi Yarn that was an impulse purchase I was feeling guilty about!
I’m loving creating these cute characters and sharpening my tech skills in the process as I wrangle with managing a website and social media.
Check out the mycrochetchums Facebook page - drop me a message there if you have any feedback about the pattern or would like to share a picture of the end result.
You can also find me on Instagram @mycrochetchums.
Happy Crocheting!
Pia x
©PIA SIMPSON/ MYCROCHETCHUMS 2021
