#lockdownamichallenge - No 21 - Pink Parrot
Scroll down for more pictures!
Yarn
Aldi So Crafty Knit & Purl Amigurumi Yarn - described on the box as "Light" - Equivalent to DK.
25g approx of Bright Pink (MC) for Body.
15g approx of Teal (CC1) for Head and Wings.
15g approx of Orange (CC2) for Beak, Feet, Head and Tail Plumes, Wings and embroidery.
10 g approx of Yellow (CC3) for Lower Beak, Wings, Head and Tail Plumes and embroidery.
5 g approx of Pale Grey (CC4) for Eyes and Eye Highlight.
Small amount of Black (CC5) for Pupils.
100% Cotton 25g = 57.5m
A cotton yarn works well for Ami as it gives good stitch definition and creates a firm structure so body parts hold their shape well. Any cotton/cotton mix DK should give similar results.
Hook
3 mm
Aldi So Crafty Knit & Purl Amigurumi Yarn - described on the box as "Light" - Equivalent to DK.
25g approx of Bright Pink (MC) for Body.
15g approx of Teal (CC1) for Head and Wings.
15g approx of Orange (CC2) for Beak, Feet, Head and Tail Plumes, Wings and embroidery.
10 g approx of Yellow (CC3) for Lower Beak, Wings, Head and Tail Plumes and embroidery.
5 g approx of Pale Grey (CC4) for Eyes and Eye Highlight.
Small amount of Black (CC5) for Pupils.
100% Cotton 25g = 57.5m
A cotton yarn works well for Ami as it gives good stitch definition and creates a firm structure so body parts hold their shape well. Any cotton/cotton mix DK should give similar results.
Hook
3 mm
Other Supplies
Yarn needle, toy stuffing, stitch marker/waste yarn.
Yarn needle, toy stuffing, stitch marker/waste yarn.
Tension
Tension is not critical for this project but stitches should be tight enough to avoid stuffing showing through.
Tension is not critical for this project but stitches should be tight enough to avoid stuffing showing through.
Size
Approx 18cm (7in) tall from head crest to bottom of feet.
Approx 18cm (7in) tall from head crest to bottom of feet.
Pattern Notes
Unless otherwise specified this pattern is worked in the amigurumi style, in a continuous spiral without slip stitching or turning chains.
Use a stitch marker or waste yarn to keep track of the first stitch of each round.
If you do not want to make a Magic Ring you can start each piece by making a chain of 2 and then work the first round into the second chain from the hook.
If you would like to start with a Magic Ring but don’t know how, you can find a Photo Tutorial HERE.
The Parrot is made of multiple separate pieces sewn together. Unless otherwise stated, finish each piece by pulling the yarn through the last loop and leave a long tail for sewing. Any loose tails at the end can be easily woven in.
Starting and turning chains do not count in the total stitch count.
Unless otherwise specified this pattern is worked in the amigurumi style, in a continuous spiral without slip stitching or turning chains.
Use a stitch marker or waste yarn to keep track of the first stitch of each round.
If you do not want to make a Magic Ring you can start each piece by making a chain of 2 and then work the first round into the second chain from the hook.
If you would like to start with a Magic Ring but don’t know how, you can find a Photo Tutorial HERE.
The Parrot is made of multiple separate pieces sewn together. Unless otherwise stated, finish each piece by pulling the yarn through the last loop and leave a long tail for sewing. Any loose tails at the end can be easily woven in.
Starting and turning chains do not count in the total stitch count.
Increasing and decreasing
The “invisible” techniques below are recommended to give your amigurumi a neat finish:
Invisible Increase: Work 1 dc in FLO of next st and 1 dc in both loops of same st.
Invisible decrease: Insert hook in FLO of the two stitches to be decreased, yrh, pull through both front loops, yrh, draw through two loops on hook.
The “invisible” techniques below are recommended to give your amigurumi a neat finish:
Invisible Increase: Work 1 dc in FLO of next st and 1 dc in both loops of same st.
Invisible decrease: Insert hook in FLO of the two stitches to be decreased, yrh, pull through both front loops, yrh, draw through two loops on hook.
UK Crochet Terms - Abbreviations
This pattern is written using UK Crochet Terms - they are NOT the same as US ones - please familiarise yourself with the UK terms to avoid your character’s shape distorting!
The “dc” abbreviation used in this pattern refers to UK double crochet. The equivalent stitch in US terms is single crochet - if you are used to US patterns you need to work single crochet everywhere this pattern says “dc”. If you work US dc (equivalent to UK Treble) the finished item will be elongated and the stuffing will show through.
If you are used to working in US Crochet Terms you can find a conversion chart HERE.
If you are unfamiliar with any of the terms used in this pattern, you can find a chart of the UK Crochet terms HERE.
This pattern is written using UK Crochet Terms - they are NOT the same as US ones - please familiarise yourself with the UK terms to avoid your character’s shape distorting!
The “dc” abbreviation used in this pattern refers to UK double crochet. The equivalent stitch in US terms is single crochet - if you are used to US patterns you need to work single crochet everywhere this pattern says “dc”. If you work US dc (equivalent to UK Treble) the finished item will be elongated and the stuffing will show through.
If you are used to working in US Crochet Terms you can find a conversion chart HERE.
If you are unfamiliar with any of the terms used in this pattern, you can find a chart of the UK Crochet terms HERE.
More pics further down!
Body
Worked from the bottom up.
If you are unfamiliar with ami pieces that start with a chain, check out the Oval Photo Tutorial HERE.
With MC, chain 7.
Rnd 1: [6 dc, 2 ch] twice. 12 sts
Rnd 2: [6 dc, 3 dc in 2 ch-sp] twice. 18 sts
Rnd 3: 2 dc in next st, 6 dc, [2 dc in next st] 3 times, 6 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice. 24 sts
Rnd 4: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 5: Dc around.
Rnd 6: 1 dc, 2 dc in next st, 25 dc, 2 dc in next st, 1 dc, 2 dc in next st. 33 sts
Rnd 7: 2 dc in next st, 28 dc, 2 dc in next st, 1 dc, 2 dc in next st, 1 dc. 36 sts
Rnd 8: 2 dc in next st, 31 dc, 2 dc in next st, 1 dc, 2 dc in next st, 1 dc. 39 sts
Rnd 9: 1 dc, 2 dc in next st, 34 sts, 2 dc in next st, 1 dc, 2 dc in next st. 42 sts
Rnd 10: 1 dc2tog, 34 dc, [1 dc2tog, 1 dc] twice. 39 sts
Rnd 11: 1 dc2tog, 33 dc, 2 dc2tog. 36 sts
Rnd 12: 1 dc2tog, 30 dc, 2 dc2tog. 33 sts
Rnd 13: 2 dc2tog, 25 dc, 2 dc2tog. 29 sts
Rnd 14: 2 dc2tog, 21 dc, 2 dc2tog. 25 sts
Rnd 15: Dc around.
Rnd 16: 1 dc2tog, 23 dc. 24 sts
Rnd 17: 1 dc2tog, 20 dc, 1 dc2tog. 22 sts
Rnds 18-24: Dc around.
Change to CC1.
Rnd 25: Dc around. Turn.
Rnd 26: 1 ch, *[1 dc, 1 htr, 1dc] in BLO of next st, 1 sl st in BLO; rep from * around. Turn.
Rnd 27: 1 ch, working in unused loops of Rnd 25, dc around.
Rnd 28: 3 dc, 2 dc in next st, 10 dc, 2 dc in next st, 7 dc. 24 sts
Rnds 29-35: Dc around.
Rnd 36: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 37: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnd 38: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Fasten off.
Worked from the bottom up.
If you are unfamiliar with ami pieces that start with a chain, check out the Oval Photo Tutorial HERE.
With MC, chain 7.
Rnd 1: [6 dc, 2 ch] twice. 12 sts
Rnd 2: [6 dc, 3 dc in 2 ch-sp] twice. 18 sts
Rnd 3: 2 dc in next st, 6 dc, [2 dc in next st] 3 times, 6 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice. 24 sts
Rnd 4: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 5: Dc around.
Rnd 6: 1 dc, 2 dc in next st, 25 dc, 2 dc in next st, 1 dc, 2 dc in next st. 33 sts
Rnd 7: 2 dc in next st, 28 dc, 2 dc in next st, 1 dc, 2 dc in next st, 1 dc. 36 sts
Rnd 8: 2 dc in next st, 31 dc, 2 dc in next st, 1 dc, 2 dc in next st, 1 dc. 39 sts
Rnd 9: 1 dc, 2 dc in next st, 34 sts, 2 dc in next st, 1 dc, 2 dc in next st. 42 sts
Rnd 10: 1 dc2tog, 34 dc, [1 dc2tog, 1 dc] twice. 39 sts
Rnd 11: 1 dc2tog, 33 dc, 2 dc2tog. 36 sts
Rnd 12: 1 dc2tog, 30 dc, 2 dc2tog. 33 sts
Rnd 13: 2 dc2tog, 25 dc, 2 dc2tog. 29 sts
Rnd 14: 2 dc2tog, 21 dc, 2 dc2tog. 25 sts
Rnd 15: Dc around.
Rnd 16: 1 dc2tog, 23 dc. 24 sts
Rnd 17: 1 dc2tog, 20 dc, 1 dc2tog. 22 sts
Rnds 18-24: Dc around.
Change to CC1.
Rnd 25: Dc around. Turn.
Rnd 26: 1 ch, *[1 dc, 1 htr, 1dc] in BLO of next st, 1 sl st in BLO; rep from * around. Turn.
Rnd 27: 1 ch, working in unused loops of Rnd 25, dc around.
Rnd 28: 3 dc, 2 dc in next st, 10 dc, 2 dc in next st, 7 dc. 24 sts
Rnds 29-35: Dc around.
Rnd 36: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 37: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnd 38: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Fasten off.
Top Beak
Rnd 1: With CC2 and working into a magic ring, 4 dc. 4 sts
Rnd 2: [2 dc in next st, 1 dc] twice. 6 sts
Rnd 3: [2 dc in next st, 2 dc] twice. 8 sts
Rnd 4: 2 dc in next st, 7 dc. 9 sts
Rnd 5: 2 dc in next st, 3 dc, 1 dc2tog, 3 dc. 9 sts
Rnd 6: Repeat Rnd 5.
Rnd 7: [2 dc in next st] twice. 7 dc. 11 sts
Rnd 8: 2 dc, 2 dc in next st, 4 dc, 1 dc2tog, 2 dc. 11 sts
Rnd 9: 3 dc, 2 dc in next st, 4 dc, 1 dc2tog, 1 dc. 11 sts
Rnd 10: 4 dc, 2 dc in next st, 4 dc, 1 dc2tog. 11 sts
Fasten off. Stuff top beak.
Rnd 1: With CC2 and working into a magic ring, 4 dc. 4 sts
Rnd 2: [2 dc in next st, 1 dc] twice. 6 sts
Rnd 3: [2 dc in next st, 2 dc] twice. 8 sts
Rnd 4: 2 dc in next st, 7 dc. 9 sts
Rnd 5: 2 dc in next st, 3 dc, 1 dc2tog, 3 dc. 9 sts
Rnd 6: Repeat Rnd 5.
Rnd 7: [2 dc in next st] twice. 7 dc. 11 sts
Rnd 8: 2 dc, 2 dc in next st, 4 dc, 1 dc2tog, 2 dc. 11 sts
Rnd 9: 3 dc, 2 dc in next st, 4 dc, 1 dc2tog, 1 dc. 11 sts
Rnd 10: 4 dc, 2 dc in next st, 4 dc, 1 dc2tog. 11 sts
Fasten off. Stuff top beak.
Lower Beak
Rnd 1: With CC3 and working into a magic ring, 4 dc. 4 sts
Rnd 2: [2 dc in next st, 1 dc] twice. 6 sts
Rnd 3: [2 dc in next st, 1 dc] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnds 4-5: Dc around.
Fasten off. Stuff lower beak.
Rnd 1: With CC3 and working into a magic ring, 4 dc. 4 sts
Rnd 2: [2 dc in next st, 1 dc] twice. 6 sts
Rnd 3: [2 dc in next st, 1 dc] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnds 4-5: Dc around.
Fasten off. Stuff lower beak.
Eyeball - make 2
Rnd 1: With CC4 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Fasten off.
Rnd 1: With CC4 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Fasten off.
Pupil - make 2
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 4 dc, join with a sl st in beg dc. 4 sts
Fasten off.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 4 dc, join with a sl st in beg dc. 4 sts
Fasten off.
Foot - make 2
Toes A & B:
Rnd 1: With CC2 and working into a magic ring, 4 dc. 4 sts
Rnd 2: [2 dc in next st, 1 dc] twice. 6 sts
Rnd 3: Dc around.
Fasten off. When you join the toes your fist dc will be in the nest unused stitch after the last stitch of Rnd 3.
Toe C:
Make in the same way as Toes A & B but do not fasten off at the end of Rnd 3. Continue as follows:
Rnd 4: 1 dc each in the next 3 unused stitches of Toe C, 1 dc each in the next 3 unused stitches of Toe A, 1 dc each in the next 6 unused stitches of Toe B, 1 dc each in the next 3 unused stitches of Toe A, 1 dc each in the next 3 unused stitches of Toe C. 18 sts
Rnd 5: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Stuff the toes now.
Rnd 6: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Rnd 7: Dc around.
Fasten off.
Toes A & B:
Rnd 1: With CC2 and working into a magic ring, 4 dc. 4 sts
Rnd 2: [2 dc in next st, 1 dc] twice. 6 sts
Rnd 3: Dc around.
Fasten off. When you join the toes your fist dc will be in the nest unused stitch after the last stitch of Rnd 3.
Toe C:
Make in the same way as Toes A & B but do not fasten off at the end of Rnd 3. Continue as follows:
Rnd 4: 1 dc each in the next 3 unused stitches of Toe C, 1 dc each in the next 3 unused stitches of Toe A, 1 dc each in the next 6 unused stitches of Toe B, 1 dc each in the next 3 unused stitches of Toe A, 1 dc each in the next 3 unused stitches of Toe C. 18 sts
Rnd 5: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Stuff the toes now.
Rnd 6: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Rnd 7: Dc around.
Fasten off.
Head Plume
Make one in CC2 and two in CC3, no need to stuff.
Rnd 1: Working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnds 2-3: Dc around.
Rnd 4: 1 dc2tog, 4 dc. 5 sts
Rnd 5: Dc around.
Rnd 6: 1 dc2tog, 3 dc. 4 sts
Fasten off.
Make one in CC2 and two in CC3, no need to stuff.
Rnd 1: Working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnds 2-3: Dc around.
Rnd 4: 1 dc2tog, 4 dc. 5 sts
Rnd 5: Dc around.
Rnd 6: 1 dc2tog, 3 dc. 4 sts
Fasten off.
Tail Plume
Make one in CC3 and two in CC2, stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: Working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnds 3-4: Dc around.
Rnd 5: 1 dc2tog, 7 dc. 8 sts
Rnd 6: Dc around.
Rnd 7: 1 dc2tog, 6 dc. 7 sts
Rnd 8: 1 dc2tog, 5 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 9: 1 dc2tog, 4 dc. 5 sts
Fasten off.
Make one in CC3 and two in CC2, stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: Working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnds 3-4: Dc around.
Rnd 5: 1 dc2tog, 7 dc. 8 sts
Rnd 6: Dc around.
Rnd 7: 1 dc2tog, 6 dc. 7 sts
Rnd 8: 1 dc2tog, 5 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 9: 1 dc2tog, 4 dc. 5 sts
Fasten off.
Wing - make 2
Rnd 1: With CC1 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Change to CC3.
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Change to CC2.
Rnd 5: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 6: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts
Change to CC1.
Rnd 7: *[1 dc, 1 htr} in next st, {1 htr, 1 dc] in next st, 1 sl st; rep from * around and finish with a sl st in beg dc.
Fasten off. Fold wing in half and stitch closed through both layers of the scalloped edge.
Rnd 1: With CC1 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Change to CC3.
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Change to CC2.
Rnd 5: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 6: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts
Change to CC1.
Rnd 7: *[1 dc, 1 htr} in next st, {1 htr, 1 dc] in next st, 1 sl st; rep from * around and finish with a sl st in beg dc.
Fasten off. Fold wing in half and stitch closed through both layers of the scalloped edge.
Making Up
Using the photographs as a guide, pin the pieces together first, checking from all angles to make sure you’re happy with the positioning, then use the long yarn tails or a length of yarn with a yarn needle to stitch the pieces together.
Sew the lower beak in place just above the scalloped edge of the head, centred on the front of the body. Sew the upper beak just above the lower one and then stitch the underside of the upper beak to the top side of the lower beak.
Sew the Eyeballs in place either side of the beak with the bottom of them in line with Rnd 29 of the Body.
Sew the Pupils on top of the Eyeballs offset to the upper right of the Eyeball.
Sew the first Head Plume in place right on top of the head and the second and third Head Plumes directly behind the first, in a vertical line centred on the back of the Body.
Using the photographs as a guide, pin the pieces together first, checking from all angles to make sure you’re happy with the positioning, then use the long yarn tails or a length of yarn with a yarn needle to stitch the pieces together.
Sew the lower beak in place just above the scalloped edge of the head, centred on the front of the body. Sew the upper beak just above the lower one and then stitch the underside of the upper beak to the top side of the lower beak.
Sew the Eyeballs in place either side of the beak with the bottom of them in line with Rnd 29 of the Body.
Sew the Pupils on top of the Eyeballs offset to the upper right of the Eyeball.
Sew the first Head Plume in place right on top of the head and the second and third Head Plumes directly behind the first, in a vertical line centred on the back of the Body.
Sew the three Tail Plumes in place in a horizontal line.
Sew the wings in place on either side of the Body with the top of them in line with Rnd 20 of the Body.
Sew the Feet to the base of the Body.
Sew the wings in place on either side of the Body with the top of them in line with Rnd 20 of the Body.
Sew the Feet to the base of the Body.
Embroidered Details
Using the photo as a guide, use CC4 to embroider the single stitch highlight on each eye and CC2 and CC3 to embroider the pattern on the chest.
All done, your parrot is complete!
Using the photo as a guide, use CC4 to embroider the single stitch highlight on each eye and CC2 and CC3 to embroider the pattern on the chest.
All done, your parrot is complete!
Terms of Use
I am happy for you to donate, gift or sell any of the my crochet chums you make if you are an individual crafter - please credit mycrochetchums.com as the designer.
If you do wish to sell your my crochet chums, it is your responsibility to ensure that the finished item complies with the relevant toy legislation in your country.
Please be sure to use toy grade stuffing and do not add buttons, bells, ribbons etc that could be a danger to small children.
The patterns are copyright protected and are not for commercial use. They cannot be sold, transmitted, distributed or reproduced in any form or by any means. I’ve worked hard to create the designs - please don’t sell my patterns - it’s just plain mean!
I am happy for you to donate, gift or sell any of the my crochet chums you make if you are an individual crafter - please credit mycrochetchums.com as the designer.
If you do wish to sell your my crochet chums, it is your responsibility to ensure that the finished item complies with the relevant toy legislation in your country.
Please be sure to use toy grade stuffing and do not add buttons, bells, ribbons etc that could be a danger to small children.
The patterns are copyright protected and are not for commercial use. They cannot be sold, transmitted, distributed or reproduced in any form or by any means. I’ve worked hard to create the designs - please don’t sell my patterns - it’s just plain mean!
About mycrochetchums
I started mycrochetchums at the end of 2020 to give me something to focus on during lockdown and to make creative use of a box of Aldi Amigurumi Yarn that was an impulse purchase I was feeling guilty about!
I’m loving creating these cute characters and sharpening my tech skills in the process as I wrangle with managing a website and social media.
Check out the mycrochetchums Facebook page - drop me a message there if you have any feedback about the pattern or would like to share a picture of the end result.
You can also find me on Instagram @mycrochetchums.
Happy Crocheting!
Pia x
©PIA SIMPSON/ MYCROCHETCHUMS 2021
I started mycrochetchums at the end of 2020 to give me something to focus on during lockdown and to make creative use of a box of Aldi Amigurumi Yarn that was an impulse purchase I was feeling guilty about!
I’m loving creating these cute characters and sharpening my tech skills in the process as I wrangle with managing a website and social media.
Check out the mycrochetchums Facebook page - drop me a message there if you have any feedback about the pattern or would like to share a picture of the end result.
You can also find me on Instagram @mycrochetchums.
Happy Crocheting!
Pia x
©PIA SIMPSON/ MYCROCHETCHUMS 2021