#lockdownamichallenge - No 2 - Lion
#lockdownamichallenge
No 2 Lion
Scroll down the page for more pics of this cheerful little chap!
Yarn Used
Aldi So Crafty Knit & Purl Amigurumi Yarn - described on the box as "Light" - Equivalent to DK
30g approx Bright Yellow (MC)
20g approx Cream (CC1) for belly patch, snout, hands, feet and embroidered mane detail
10g approx Orange (CC2) for mane, end of tail and embroidered belly patch detail
Small amount Brown (CC3) for nose, facial features and claws
Small amount Black (CC4) for eyes
100% Cotton 25g = 57.5m
30g approx Bright Yellow (MC)
20g approx Cream (CC1) for belly patch, snout, hands, feet and embroidered mane detail
10g approx Orange (CC2) for mane, end of tail and embroidered belly patch detail
Small amount Brown (CC3) for nose, facial features and claws
Small amount Black (CC4) for eyes
100% Cotton 25g = 57.5m
Hook
3mm
3mm
Tension
Tension is not critical for this project but stitches should be tight enough to avoid stuffing showing through.
Tension is not critical for this project but stitches should be tight enough to avoid stuffing showing through.
Other Supplies
yarn needle
toy stuffing
stitch marker/waste yarn.
yarn needle
toy stuffing
stitch marker/waste yarn.
Sizing
21 cm approx from top of mane to bottom of feet
21 cm approx from top of mane to bottom of feet
Pattern Notes
Unless otherwise specified this pattern is worked in the amigurumi style, in a spiral without slip stitching or turning chains.
Use a stitch marker or waste yarn to keep track of the first stitch of each round.
The lion is made of multiple separate pieces sewn together. Unless otherwise stated, finish each piece by pulling the yarn through the last loop and leave a long tail for sewing. Any loose tails at the end can be easily woven in.
With pieces that start with a chain and have additional chains within the round, these are not counted in the total stitch count for that round.
Unless otherwise specified this pattern is worked in the amigurumi style, in a spiral without slip stitching or turning chains.
Use a stitch marker or waste yarn to keep track of the first stitch of each round.
The lion is made of multiple separate pieces sewn together. Unless otherwise stated, finish each piece by pulling the yarn through the last loop and leave a long tail for sewing. Any loose tails at the end can be easily woven in.
With pieces that start with a chain and have additional chains within the round, these are not counted in the total stitch count for that round.
Abbreviations used in this pattern - UK Crochet Terms
This pattern is written using UK Crochet Terms - they are NOT the same as US ones - please familiarise yourself with the UK terms to avoid your character’s shape distorting!
The “dc” abbreviation used in this pattern refers to UK double crochet. The equivalent stitch in US terms is single crochet - if you are used to US patterns you need to work single crochet everywhere this pattern says “dc”. If you work US dc (equivalent to UK Treble) the finished item will be elongated and the stuffing will show through. Similarly, the "htr" abbreviation used here refers to UK half treble crochet. The equivalent stitch in US terms is half double crochet - US Crocheters need to work half double crochet everywhere this pattern says "htr".
The “dc” abbreviation used in this pattern refers to UK double crochet. The equivalent stitch in US terms is single crochet - if you are used to US patterns you need to work single crochet everywhere this pattern says “dc”. If you work US dc (equivalent to UK Treble) the finished item will be elongated and the stuffing will show through. Similarly, the "htr" abbreviation used here refers to UK half treble crochet. The equivalent stitch in US terms is half double crochet - US Crocheters need to work half double crochet everywhere this pattern says "htr".
If any of the abbreviations used in this pattern are unfamiliar, you can find a chart of UK Terms HERE.
This pattern uses UK Terms -if you are used to working in US Crochet Terms you can find a conversion chart HERE.
This pattern uses UK Terms -if you are used to working in US Crochet Terms you can find a conversion chart HERE.
Increasing and decreasing
The “invisible” techniques below are recommended to give your amigurumi a neat finish:
The “invisible” techniques below are recommended to give your amigurumi a neat finish:
Invisible Increase: Work 1 dc in FLO of next st and 1 dc in both loops of same st.
Invisible decrease: Insert hook in FLO of the two stitches to be decreased, yrh, pull through both front loops, yrh, draw through two loops on hook.
Invisible decrease: Insert hook in FLO of the two stitches to be decreased, yrh, pull through both front loops, yrh, draw through two loops on hook.
Changing Colour
Change colour on the last yrh of the last st of the previous round.
Change colour on the last yrh of the last st of the previous round.
Lion - side font
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Lion - side
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Lion - back
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Time to start crocheting!
Body
Rnd 1: With MC and working in a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24sts
Rnd 5: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 6: Dc around.
Rnd 7: [4dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnds 8-11: Dc around.
Rnd 12: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnds 13-15: Dc around.
Rnd 16: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnds 17-19: Dc around.
Rnd 20: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 21: Dc around.
Fasten off leaving a long tail. Stuff body.
Rnd 1: With MC and working in a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24sts
Rnd 5: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 6: Dc around.
Rnd 7: [4dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnds 8-11: Dc around.
Rnd 12: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnds 13-15: Dc around.
Rnd 16: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnds 17-19: Dc around.
Rnd 20: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 21: Dc around.
Fasten off leaving a long tail. Stuff body.
Belly Patch
Rnd 1: With CC1 and working in a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24sts
Rnd 5: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 6: Dc around.
Fasten off leaving a long tail.
Rnd 1: With CC1 and working in a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24sts
Rnd 5: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 6: Dc around.
Fasten off leaving a long tail.
Head
Stuff the head as you go.
Rnd 1:With CC1 and working in a magic ring, 6dc. 6sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: Dc around.
Rnd 5: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24sts
Rnd 6-7: Dc around.
Change colour to MC
Rnds 8-9: Dc around.
Rnd 10: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 2 times, [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times, 3 dc, 2 dc in next st, 3 dc. 30 sts
Rnd 11: Dc around.
Rnd 12: 4 dc, 2 dc in next st, [3dc, 2 dc in next st] 2 times, 4 dc, 2 dc in next st, [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 2 times, 4 dc. 36 sts
Rnd 13: 5 dc, 2 dc in next st, [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 5 times, 5 dc. 42 sts
Rnds 14-15: Dc around.
Rnd 16: [5 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnds 17-20: Dc around.
Rnd 21: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 22: Dc around.
Rnd 23: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 24: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 25: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnd 26: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Fasten off, weave in end.
Stuff the head as you go.
Rnd 1:With CC1 and working in a magic ring, 6dc. 6sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: Dc around.
Rnd 5: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24sts
Rnd 6-7: Dc around.
Change colour to MC
Rnds 8-9: Dc around.
Rnd 10: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 2 times, [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times, 3 dc, 2 dc in next st, 3 dc. 30 sts
Rnd 11: Dc around.
Rnd 12: 4 dc, 2 dc in next st, [3dc, 2 dc in next st] 2 times, 4 dc, 2 dc in next st, [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 2 times, 4 dc. 36 sts
Rnd 13: 5 dc, 2 dc in next st, [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 5 times, 5 dc. 42 sts
Rnds 14-15: Dc around.
Rnd 16: [5 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnds 17-20: Dc around.
Rnd 21: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 22: Dc around.
Rnd 23: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 24: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 25: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnd 26: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Fasten off, weave in end.
Mane - make 2
With CC2, chain 41.
Rnd 1: Starting in 2nd ch from hook, 40 dc. Do not turn. 40 sts
Rnd 2: Working in first dc of prev rnd, 1 dc (to join), 39 dc. 40sts
Rnd 3: *1 sl st, [1 dc,1 htr] in next st, 2 tr in next st, [1htr, 1 dc] in next st; rep from * 9 more times. 70 sts
Fasten off, weave in ends.
With CC2, chain 41.
Rnd 1: Starting in 2nd ch from hook, 40 dc. Do not turn. 40 sts
Rnd 2: Working in first dc of prev rnd, 1 dc (to join), 39 dc. 40sts
Rnd 3: *1 sl st, [1 dc,1 htr] in next st, 2 tr in next st, [1htr, 1 dc] in next st; rep from * 9 more times. 70 sts
Fasten off, weave in ends.
Lion Mane Detail
Take one of the Mane pieces and, using the photo as a guide, embroider the decorative detail round the mane using lengths of MC and CC1 with a yarn needle. Fasten off and weave in ends.
Stitch the two yarn pieces together round the outside and inside edges. Fasten off and weave in ends.
Stitch the two yarn pieces together round the outside and inside edges. Fasten off and weave in ends.
Eye - make 2
Rnd 1: With CC4 and working in a magic ring, 4 dc. 4 sts
Join with a slip st into top of first dc.
Fasten off leaving a long tail.
Rnd 1: With CC4 and working in a magic ring, 4 dc. 4 sts
Join with a slip st into top of first dc.
Fasten off leaving a long tail.
Nose
Rnd 1: With CC3 and working in a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnd 3: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 12 sts
Fasten off leaving a long tail.
Rnd 1: With CC3 and working in a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnd 3: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 12 sts
Fasten off leaving a long tail.
Ear
Rnd 1: With MC and working in a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Fasten off, leaving a long tail.
Rnd 1: With MC and working in a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Fasten off, leaving a long tail.
Hand with Arm - make 2
Stuff hand before you change colour. Lightly stuff arm.
If you're flummoxed by the first two rounds -there's a photo tutorial HERE.
With CC1, chain 5.
Rnd 1: Starting in 2nd ch from hook, 4 dc, 2 ch, rotating as you go, work in the other side of the chain, 4 dc, 2 ch. 8 sts
Rnd 2: [4dc, 2 dc in 2 ch sp] 2 times. 12 sts
Rnds 3-4: Dc around.
Rnd 5: [4dc 1 dc2tog] 2 times. 10 sts
Rnd 6: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 2 times. 8 sts
Change colour to MC. Stuff hand lightly.
Rnds 7-9: Dc around.
Rnd 10: 1 dc2tog, 6 dc. 7sts
Rnds 11-13: Dc around.
Rnd 14: 1 dc2tog, 5 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 15: Dc around.
Fasten off, leaving a long tail.
Stuff hand before you change colour. Lightly stuff arm.
If you're flummoxed by the first two rounds -there's a photo tutorial HERE.
With CC1, chain 5.
Rnd 1: Starting in 2nd ch from hook, 4 dc, 2 ch, rotating as you go, work in the other side of the chain, 4 dc, 2 ch. 8 sts
Rnd 2: [4dc, 2 dc in 2 ch sp] 2 times. 12 sts
Rnds 3-4: Dc around.
Rnd 5: [4dc 1 dc2tog] 2 times. 10 sts
Rnd 6: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 2 times. 8 sts
Change colour to MC. Stuff hand lightly.
Rnds 7-9: Dc around.
Rnd 10: 1 dc2tog, 6 dc. 7sts
Rnds 11-13: Dc around.
Rnd 14: 1 dc2tog, 5 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 15: Dc around.
Fasten off, leaving a long tail.
Foot and Leg- make 2
Stuff the leg as you go.
Rnd 1: With CC1 and working in a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnds 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [2 dc in next st, 2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: 5 dc, 1 dc2tog, 4 dc, 1 dc2tog, 5 dc. 16 sts
Rnd 5: [2 dc, 2 dc2tog] 2 times, 4 dc. 12 sts
Rnd 6: 3 dc, 1 dc2tog, 1 dc, 1 dc2tog, 4 dc. 10 sts
Rnd 7: 2 dc, 1 dc2tog, 1 dc, 1 dc2tog, 3 dc. 8 sts
Change colour to MC
Rnds 8-9: Dc around.
Rnd 10: 1 dc2tog, 6 dc. 7 sts
Rnds 11-12: Dc around.
Fasten off, leaving a long tail.
Stuff the leg as you go.
Rnd 1: With CC1 and working in a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnds 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [2 dc in next st, 2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: 5 dc, 1 dc2tog, 4 dc, 1 dc2tog, 5 dc. 16 sts
Rnd 5: [2 dc, 2 dc2tog] 2 times, 4 dc. 12 sts
Rnd 6: 3 dc, 1 dc2tog, 1 dc, 1 dc2tog, 4 dc. 10 sts
Rnd 7: 2 dc, 1 dc2tog, 1 dc, 1 dc2tog, 3 dc. 8 sts
Change colour to MC
Rnds 8-9: Dc around.
Rnd 10: 1 dc2tog, 6 dc. 7 sts
Rnds 11-12: Dc around.
Fasten off, leaving a long tail.
Tail
Stuff the tip of the tail lightly - do not stuff the rest.
Rnd 1: With CC2 and working in a magic ring, 4dc. 4 sts
Rnd 2: Dc around.
Rnd 3: 2 dc in each st around. 8sts
Rnd 4: Dc around.
Rnd 5: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 2 times. 6 dc
Change colour to MC
Rnd 6: Dc around.
Rnd 7: 1 dc2tog, 4 dc. 5 sts
Rnds 8-12: Dc around.
Rnd 13: 2 dc in next st, 4 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 14: Dc around.
Fasten off leaving a long tail.
Stuff the tip of the tail lightly - do not stuff the rest.
Rnd 1: With CC2 and working in a magic ring, 4dc. 4 sts
Rnd 2: Dc around.
Rnd 3: 2 dc in each st around. 8sts
Rnd 4: Dc around.
Rnd 5: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 2 times. 6 dc
Change colour to MC
Rnd 6: Dc around.
Rnd 7: 1 dc2tog, 4 dc. 5 sts
Rnds 8-12: Dc around.
Rnd 13: 2 dc in next st, 4 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 14: Dc around.
Fasten off leaving a long tail.
Making Up
Making Up - Lion front
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Making up - Lion back
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Making up - Lion side
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Using the photographs as a guide, pin the pieces together first, working in the following order and using the long yarn tails or a length of yarn with a yarn needle to stitch the pieces together.
Start with the head. The point on Rnd 8 where the colour changes from CC1 to MC should be pointing downwards - this is the bottom of the face. Sew the mane into place first - the bottom of it sits on Rnd 13 approx of the head, the top sits on Rnd 15 so the mane sits at an angle when you look at the head side on - leaving room behind the mane to attach the body.
Attach the ears just in front of the mane approx 10 stitches apart, followed by the eyes approx 4 rows further forward approx 5 stitches apart.
Start with the head. The point on Rnd 8 where the colour changes from CC1 to MC should be pointing downwards - this is the bottom of the face. Sew the mane into place first - the bottom of it sits on Rnd 13 approx of the head, the top sits on Rnd 15 so the mane sits at an angle when you look at the head side on - leaving room behind the mane to attach the body.
Attach the ears just in front of the mane approx 10 stitches apart, followed by the eyes approx 4 rows further forward approx 5 stitches apart.
Making Up - Angle the mane
to leave space for the body
to attach behind.
Fold the nose in half and attach to the snout as shown in the photo.
Making Up - position of nose
Attach the body to the head and the belly patch to the front of the body. Stitch the arms in place as shown in the photos attaching them approx 2 rows down from the neck/head join.
Attach the legs to the body as shown in the photos.
Attach the tail to the back of the body in line with Rnd 8 approx.
Attach the legs to the body as shown in the photos.
Attach the tail to the back of the body in line with Rnd 8 approx.
Embroidered details.
Using CC3 whip stitch over the ends of the hands and feet, pulling the yarn up tightly to create the “fingers” and “toes” and use the same yarn to embroider the mouth detail.
Using CC1 embroider the highlight in the eyes.
Using CC2 embroider two “stars” on the belly patch.
Using CC3 whip stitch over the ends of the hands and feet, pulling the yarn up tightly to create the “fingers” and “toes” and use the same yarn to embroider the mouth detail.
Using CC1 embroider the highlight in the eyes.
Using CC2 embroider two “stars” on the belly patch.
Terms of Use
I am happy for you to donate, gift or sell any of the my crochet chums you make if you are an individual crafter - please credit mycrochetchums.weebly.com as the designer.
If you do wish to sell your my crochet chums, it is your responsibility to ensure that the finished item complies with the relevant toy legislation in your country.
Please be sure to use toy grade stuffing and do not add buttons, bells, ribbons etc that could be a danger to small children.
The patterns are copyright protected and are not for commercial use. They cannot be sold, transmitted, distributed or reproduced in any form or by any means. I’ve worked hard to create the designs - please don’t sell my patterns - it’s just plain mean!
© PIA SIMPSON MYCROCHETCHUMS 2021
I am happy for you to donate, gift or sell any of the my crochet chums you make if you are an individual crafter - please credit mycrochetchums.weebly.com as the designer.
If you do wish to sell your my crochet chums, it is your responsibility to ensure that the finished item complies with the relevant toy legislation in your country.
Please be sure to use toy grade stuffing and do not add buttons, bells, ribbons etc that could be a danger to small children.
The patterns are copyright protected and are not for commercial use. They cannot be sold, transmitted, distributed or reproduced in any form or by any means. I’ve worked hard to create the designs - please don’t sell my patterns - it’s just plain mean!
© PIA SIMPSON MYCROCHETCHUMS 2021
