#lockdownamichallenge - No 19 - Unicorn
No 19 Unicorn
Scroll down for more pictures!
Yarn
Aldi So Crafty Knit & Purl Amigurumi Yarn - described on the box as "Light" - Equivalent to DK.
35g approx of Aqua (MC) for Body, Head, Arms, Legs and Ears.
20g approx of Pale Yellow (CC1) for Nose, Hooves, Belly Patch, Horn and Eye Highlight.
10g approx each of Pink (CC2), Lilac (CC3) and Blue (CC4) for Mane, Tail and Embroidered Detail.
Small amount of Grey (CC5) for Eyes.
100% Cotton 25g = 57.5m
A cotton yarn works well for Ami as it gives good stitch definition and creates a firm structure so body parts hold their shape well. Any cotton/cotton mix DK should give similar results.
Aldi So Crafty Knit & Purl Amigurumi Yarn - described on the box as "Light" - Equivalent to DK.
35g approx of Aqua (MC) for Body, Head, Arms, Legs and Ears.
20g approx of Pale Yellow (CC1) for Nose, Hooves, Belly Patch, Horn and Eye Highlight.
10g approx each of Pink (CC2), Lilac (CC3) and Blue (CC4) for Mane, Tail and Embroidered Detail.
Small amount of Grey (CC5) for Eyes.
100% Cotton 25g = 57.5m
A cotton yarn works well for Ami as it gives good stitch definition and creates a firm structure so body parts hold their shape well. Any cotton/cotton mix DK should give similar results.
Hook
3 mm
3 mm
Other Supplies
Yarn needle, toy stuffing, stitch marker/waste yarn.
Yarn needle, toy stuffing, stitch marker/waste yarn.
Tension
Tension is not critical for this project but stitches should be tight enough to avoid stuffing showing through.
Tension is not critical for this project but stitches should be tight enough to avoid stuffing showing through.
Size
Approx 22cm (8.5in) tall.
Approx 22cm (8.5in) tall.
Pattern Notes
Unless otherwise specified this pattern is worked in the amigurumi style, in a continuous spiral without slip stitching or turning chains.
The Unicorn’s Belly patch is worked in turned rows.
Use a stitch marker or waste yarn to keep track of the first stitch of each round.
If you do not want to make a Magic Ring you can start each piece by making a chain of 2 and then work the first round into the second chain from the hook.
If you would like to start with a Magic Ring but don’t know how, you can find a Photo Tutorial at:https://www.mycrochetchums.com/magic-ring-photo-tutorial.html
The Unicorn is made of multiple separate pieces sewn together. Unless otherwise stated, finish each piece by pulling the yarn through the last loop and leave a long tail for sewing. Any loose tails at the end can be easily woven in.
Starting and turning chains do not count in the total stitch count.
Unless otherwise specified this pattern is worked in the amigurumi style, in a continuous spiral without slip stitching or turning chains.
The Unicorn’s Belly patch is worked in turned rows.
Use a stitch marker or waste yarn to keep track of the first stitch of each round.
If you do not want to make a Magic Ring you can start each piece by making a chain of 2 and then work the first round into the second chain from the hook.
If you would like to start with a Magic Ring but don’t know how, you can find a Photo Tutorial at:https://www.mycrochetchums.com/magic-ring-photo-tutorial.html
The Unicorn is made of multiple separate pieces sewn together. Unless otherwise stated, finish each piece by pulling the yarn through the last loop and leave a long tail for sewing. Any loose tails at the end can be easily woven in.
Starting and turning chains do not count in the total stitch count.
Increasing and decreasing
The “invisible” techniques below are recommended to give your amigurumi a neat finish:
Invisible Increase: Work 1 dc in FLO of next st and 1 dc in both loops of same st.
Invisible decrease: Insert hook in FLO of the two stitches to be decreased, yrh, pull through both front loops, yrh, draw through two loops on hook.
The “invisible” techniques below are recommended to give your amigurumi a neat finish:
Invisible Increase: Work 1 dc in FLO of next st and 1 dc in both loops of same st.
Invisible decrease: Insert hook in FLO of the two stitches to be decreased, yrh, pull through both front loops, yrh, draw through two loops on hook.
UK Crochet Terms - Abbreviations
This pattern is written using UK Crochet Terms - they are NOT the same as US ones - please familiarise yourself with the UK terms to avoid your character’s shape distorting!
The “dc” abbreviation used in this pattern refers to UK double crochet. The equivalent stitch in US terms is single crochet - if you are used to US patterns you need to work single crochet everywhere this pattern says “dc”. If you work US dc (equivalent to UK Treble) the finished item will be elongated and the stuffing will show through.
If you are used to working in US Crochet Terms you can find a conversion chart HERE.
If you are unfamiliar with any of the terms used in this pattern, you can find a chart of the UK Crochet terms used HERE.
This pattern is written using UK Crochet Terms - they are NOT the same as US ones - please familiarise yourself with the UK terms to avoid your character’s shape distorting!
The “dc” abbreviation used in this pattern refers to UK double crochet. The equivalent stitch in US terms is single crochet - if you are used to US patterns you need to work single crochet everywhere this pattern says “dc”. If you work US dc (equivalent to UK Treble) the finished item will be elongated and the stuffing will show through.
If you are used to working in US Crochet Terms you can find a conversion chart HERE.
If you are unfamiliar with any of the terms used in this pattern, you can find a chart of the UK Crochet terms used HERE.
Unicorn Front
Unicorn Front Right
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Unicorn Left Side
Unicorn Back
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Body
Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 6: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnds 7-10: Dc around.
Rnd 11: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnds 12-13: Dc around.
Rnd 14: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnds 15-17: Dc around.
Rnd 18: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnds 19-21: Dc around.
Fasten off.
Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 6: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnds 7-10: Dc around.
Rnd 11: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnds 12-13: Dc around.
Rnd 14: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnds 15-17: Dc around.
Rnd 18: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnds 19-21: Dc around.
Fasten off.
Head
Stuff the head as you go.
Rnd 1: With CC1 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: Dc around.
Rnd 6: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 7: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnds 8-9: Dc around.
Change to MC.
Rnd 10: Dc around.
Rnd 11: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 12: Dc around.
Rnd 13: 6 dc, 2 dc in next st, 3 dc, [2 dc in next st, 2 dc] 3 times, 2 dc in next st, 3 dc, 2 dc in next st, 6 dc. 36 sts
Rnd 14: 6 dc, 2 dc in next st, 3 dc, [2 dc in next st, 4 dc] 3 times, 2 dc in next st, 3 dc, 2 dc in next st, 6 dc. 42 sts
Rnd 15: [5dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnds 16-17: Dc around.
Rnd 18: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 19: Dc around.
Rnd 20: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 21: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 22: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnd 23: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Fasten off.
Stuff the head as you go.
Rnd 1: With CC1 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: Dc around.
Rnd 6: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 7: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnds 8-9: Dc around.
Change to MC.
Rnd 10: Dc around.
Rnd 11: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 12: Dc around.
Rnd 13: 6 dc, 2 dc in next st, 3 dc, [2 dc in next st, 2 dc] 3 times, 2 dc in next st, 3 dc, 2 dc in next st, 6 dc. 36 sts
Rnd 14: 6 dc, 2 dc in next st, 3 dc, [2 dc in next st, 4 dc] 3 times, 2 dc in next st, 3 dc, 2 dc in next st, 6 dc. 42 sts
Rnd 15: [5dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnds 16-17: Dc around.
Rnd 18: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 19: Dc around.
Rnd 20: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 21: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 22: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnd 23: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Fasten off.
Ear - make 2
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 4 dc. 4 sts
Rnd 2: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] twice. 6 sts
Rnd 3: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] twice. 8 sts
Rnd 4: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] twice. 10 sts
Rnd 5: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] twice. 12 sts
Rnd 6: 4 dc, 2 dc in next st, 5 dc, 2 dc in next st, 1 dc. 14 sts
Rnds 7-8: Dc around.
Rnd 9: 4 dc, 1 dc2tog, 5 dc, 1 dc2tog, 1 dc. 12 sts
Rnd 10: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Fasten off.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 4 dc. 4 sts
Rnd 2: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] twice. 6 sts
Rnd 3: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] twice. 8 sts
Rnd 4: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] twice. 10 sts
Rnd 5: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] twice. 12 sts
Rnd 6: 4 dc, 2 dc in next st, 5 dc, 2 dc in next st, 1 dc. 14 sts
Rnds 7-8: Dc around.
Rnd 9: 4 dc, 1 dc2tog, 5 dc, 1 dc2tog, 1 dc. 12 sts
Rnd 10: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Fasten off.
Eye - make 2
Rnd 1: With CC5 and working into a magic ring, 4 dc, join with a sl st in beg dc. 4 sts
Fasten off.
Rnd 1: With CC5 and working into a magic ring, 4 dc, join with a sl st in beg dc. 4 sts
Fasten off.
Belly Patch
Worked in turned Rows - chains are not included in stitch count.
With CC1, chain 5.
Row 1: Starting in 2nd ch from hook, 4 dc. Turn. 4 sts
Row 2: 1 ch, 2 dc in next st, 2 dc, 2 dc in next st. Turn. 6 sts
Row 3: 1 ch, 2 dc in next st, 4 dc, 2 dc in next st. Turn. 8 sts
Row 4: 1 ch, 2 dc in next st, 6 dc, 2 dc in next st. Turn. 10 sts
Rows 5-7: 1 ch, dc across. Turn. 10 sts
Row 8: 1 ch, 1 dc2tog, 6 dc, 1 dc2tog. Turn. 8 sts
Row 9: 1 ch, 1 dc2tog, 4 dc, 1 dc2tog. Turn. 6 sts
Row 10: 1 ch, 1 dc2tog, 2 dc, 1 dc2tog. Turn. 4 sts
Row 11: 1 ch, 2 dc2tog. Do Not Turn. 2 sts
To neaten the edge, continuing on from the end of Row 11, work 1 dc in the end of each row down the side, in each of the 4 unused chain loops from the foundation chain along the bottom and in each row end back up the other side to the start of Row 11. Fasten off.
Worked in turned Rows - chains are not included in stitch count.
With CC1, chain 5.
Row 1: Starting in 2nd ch from hook, 4 dc. Turn. 4 sts
Row 2: 1 ch, 2 dc in next st, 2 dc, 2 dc in next st. Turn. 6 sts
Row 3: 1 ch, 2 dc in next st, 4 dc, 2 dc in next st. Turn. 8 sts
Row 4: 1 ch, 2 dc in next st, 6 dc, 2 dc in next st. Turn. 10 sts
Rows 5-7: 1 ch, dc across. Turn. 10 sts
Row 8: 1 ch, 1 dc2tog, 6 dc, 1 dc2tog. Turn. 8 sts
Row 9: 1 ch, 1 dc2tog, 4 dc, 1 dc2tog. Turn. 6 sts
Row 10: 1 ch, 1 dc2tog, 2 dc, 1 dc2tog. Turn. 4 sts
Row 11: 1 ch, 2 dc2tog. Do Not Turn. 2 sts
To neaten the edge, continuing on from the end of Row 11, work 1 dc in the end of each row down the side, in each of the 4 unused chain loops from the foundation chain along the bottom and in each row end back up the other side to the start of Row 11. Fasten off.
Arm/Leg - make 4
Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With CC1 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 15 sts
Rnd 4: Working in BLO, dc around.
Rnd 5: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 12 sts
Rnd 6: Dc around.
Change to MC.
Rnd 7: Dc around.
Rnd 8: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] twice. 10 sts
Rnds 9-10: Dc around.
Rnd 11: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] twice. 8 sts
Rnds 12 -14: Dc around.
Fasten off.
Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With CC1 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 15 sts
Rnd 4: Working in BLO, dc around.
Rnd 5: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 12 sts
Rnd 6: Dc around.
Change to MC.
Rnd 7: Dc around.
Rnd 8: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] twice. 10 sts
Rnds 9-10: Dc around.
Rnd 11: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] twice. 8 sts
Rnds 12 -14: Dc around.
Fasten off.
Horn
Rnd 1: With CC1 and working into a magic ring, 4 dc. 4 sts
Rnd 2: Dc around.
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] twice. 6 sts
Rnd 4: Dc around.
Rnd 5: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] twice. 8 sts
Rnd 6: Dc around.
Rnd 7: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] twice. 10 sts
Rnd 8: 4 dc, 5 htr, 1 dc. 10 sts
Fasten off. Stuff.
Rnd 1: With CC1 and working into a magic ring, 4 dc. 4 sts
Rnd 2: Dc around.
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] twice. 6 sts
Rnd 4: Dc around.
Rnd 5: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] twice. 8 sts
Rnd 6: Dc around.
Rnd 7: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] twice. 10 sts
Rnd 8: 4 dc, 5 htr, 1 dc. 10 sts
Fasten off. Stuff.
Mane - short
Make 3 - one each in CC2, CC3 and CC4.
With chosen colour, chain 12.
Row 1: Starting in 2nd ch from hook, 2 dc in each st down chain. 22 sts
Fasten off.
Make 3 - one each in CC2, CC3 and CC4.
With chosen colour, chain 12.
Row 1: Starting in 2nd ch from hook, 2 dc in each st down chain. 22 sts
Fasten off.
Mane - medium
Make 3 - one each in CC2, CC3 and CC4.
With chosen colour, chain 16.
Row 1: Starting in 2nd ch from hook, 2 dc in each st down chain. 30 sts
Fasten off.
Make 3 - one each in CC2, CC3 and CC4.
With chosen colour, chain 16.
Row 1: Starting in 2nd ch from hook, 2 dc in each st down chain. 30 sts
Fasten off.
Mane - long
Make 3 - one each in CC2, CC3 and CC4.
With chosen colour, chain 21.
Row 1: Starting in 2nd ch from hook, 2 dc in each st down chain. 40 sts
Fasten off.
Make 3 - one each in CC2, CC3 and CC4.
With chosen colour, chain 21.
Row 1: Starting in 2nd ch from hook, 2 dc in each st down chain. 40 sts
Fasten off.
Tail - short
Make 2 - one each in CC2 and CC3.
With chosen colour, chain 18.
Row 1: Starting in 2nd ch from hook, 2 dc in each st down chain. 34 sts
Fasten off.
Make 2 - one each in CC2 and CC3.
With chosen colour, chain 18.
Row 1: Starting in 2nd ch from hook, 2 dc in each st down chain. 34 sts
Fasten off.
Tail - long
With CC4, chain 21.
Row 1: Starting in 2nd ch from hook, 2 dc in each st down chain. 40 sts
Fasten off.
With CC4, chain 21.
Row 1: Starting in 2nd ch from hook, 2 dc in each st down chain. 40 sts
Fasten off.
Unicorn - Mane
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Unicorn - Base
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Making Up
- Using the photographs as a guide, pin the pieces together first, then use the long yarn tails or a length of yarn with a yarn needle to stitch the pieces together.
- Looking at the head from the nose back, make sure the more steeply sloping section of MC behind the nose is facing upwards - this is the top of the head. Pin the eyes in place on the sloping area, with the bottom of them in line with Rnd 11 of the head, spaced 3-4 sts apart and then sew into place.
- The front of the base of the horn sits in line with Rnd 14 of the Head, centred between the eyes. Make sure the htrs worked in the last round of the Horn face towards the back of the head so that it is angled forward. Stitch into place.
- Next pin and then stitch the Ears into place either side of the Horn, pinching the base of each Ear together slightly to make them more 3 dimensional.
- To create the unicorn’s Mane, sew the three Short pieces in place directly behind the Horn. Working down the back of the Head, then sew the three Medium mane pieces just below the short ones and the three long pieces just below those.
- Sew the Body onto the Head.
- Sew the Belly Patch in place on the front of the Body.
- Sew the Arms in place either side of the Belly Patch, attaching them 2 rows down from the top of the Body.
- Sew the Legs in place on the bottom of the Body, set forward so that the unicorn can sit down.
- Sew the two shorter tail pieces close together in line with Rnd 9 of the Body, centred to sit in line vertically with the Mane. Sew the longer Tail piece in place just below the first two pieces.
Unicorn - Horn Detail
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Unicorn - Face
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Embroidered Details
Using the photos as a guide, stitch the following:
Using the photos as a guide, stitch the following:
- With CC1 embroider the single stitch eye highlights onto the eyes.
- With CC5 embroider the unicorn’s smile.
- With CC2, CC3 and CC4 embroider the decorative detail on the Belly Patch.
- Create the nostrils with CC3 oversewing each twice.
- With CC3, use running stitch for the decoration on the Horn, working into the tops of the stitches in each Rnd to create a spiral.
- Also use CC3 to create the detail on the hooves, again oversewing each twice.
Terms of Use
I am happy for you to donate, gift or sell any of the my crochet chums you make if you are an individual crafter - please credit mycrochetchums.com as the designer.
If you do wish to sell your my crochet chums, it is your responsibility to ensure that the finished item complies with the relevant toy legislation in your country.
Please be sure to use toy grade stuffing and do not add buttons, bells, ribbons etc that could be a danger to small children.
The patterns are copyright protected and are not for commercial use. They cannot be sold, transmitted, distributed or reproduced in any form or by any means. I’ve worked hard to create the designs - please don’t sell my patterns - it’s just plain mean!
I am happy for you to donate, gift or sell any of the my crochet chums you make if you are an individual crafter - please credit mycrochetchums.com as the designer.
If you do wish to sell your my crochet chums, it is your responsibility to ensure that the finished item complies with the relevant toy legislation in your country.
Please be sure to use toy grade stuffing and do not add buttons, bells, ribbons etc that could be a danger to small children.
The patterns are copyright protected and are not for commercial use. They cannot be sold, transmitted, distributed or reproduced in any form or by any means. I’ve worked hard to create the designs - please don’t sell my patterns - it’s just plain mean!
About mycrochetchums
I started mycrochetchums at the end of 2020 to give me something to focus on during lockdown and to make creative use of a box of Aldi Amigurumi Yarn that was an impulse purchase I was feeling guilty about!
I’m loving creating these cute characters and sharpening my tech skills in the process as I wrangle with managing a website and social media.
Check out the mycrochetchums Facebook page - drop me a message there if you have any feedback about the pattern or would like to share a picture of the end result.
You can also find me on Instagram @mycrochetchums.
Happy Crocheting!
Pia x
©PIA SIMPSON/ MYCROCHETCHUMS 2021
I started mycrochetchums at the end of 2020 to give me something to focus on during lockdown and to make creative use of a box of Aldi Amigurumi Yarn that was an impulse purchase I was feeling guilty about!
I’m loving creating these cute characters and sharpening my tech skills in the process as I wrangle with managing a website and social media.
Check out the mycrochetchums Facebook page - drop me a message there if you have any feedback about the pattern or would like to share a picture of the end result.
You can also find me on Instagram @mycrochetchums.
Happy Crocheting!
Pia x
©PIA SIMPSON/ MYCROCHETCHUMS 2021
