#lockdownamichallenge - No 16 - Baby Elephant
No 16 Baby Elephant
Scroll down for more pics!
Yarn
Aldi So Crafty Knit & Purl Amigurumi Yarn - described on the box as "Light" - Equivalent to DK.
35g approx of Light Purple (MC)- for Body, Head, Legs and Ears.
10g approx of Pink (CC1) for Inner Ears, End of Trunk and Toes.
Small amount of Black (CC2) for Eyes.
Tiny amount of White (CC3) for Eye Highlight.
100% Cotton 25g = 57.5m
A cotton yarn works well for Ami as it gives good stitch definition and creates a firm structure so body parts hold their shape well. Any cotton/cotton mix DK should give similar results.
Aldi So Crafty Knit & Purl Amigurumi Yarn - described on the box as "Light" - Equivalent to DK.
35g approx of Light Purple (MC)- for Body, Head, Legs and Ears.
10g approx of Pink (CC1) for Inner Ears, End of Trunk and Toes.
Small amount of Black (CC2) for Eyes.
Tiny amount of White (CC3) for Eye Highlight.
100% Cotton 25g = 57.5m
A cotton yarn works well for Ami as it gives good stitch definition and creates a firm structure so body parts hold their shape well. Any cotton/cotton mix DK should give similar results.
Hook
3 mm
3 mm
Other Supplies
Yarn needle, toy stuffing, stitch marker/waste yarn.
Yarn needle, toy stuffing, stitch marker/waste yarn.
Tension
Tension is not critical for this project but stitches should be tight enough to avoid stuffing showing through.
Tension is not critical for this project but stitches should be tight enough to avoid stuffing showing through.
Size
Approx 13 cm (5in) tall.
Approx 13 cm (5in) tall.
Pattern Notes
Unless otherwise specified this pattern is worked in the amigurumi style, in a continuous spiral without slip stitching or turning chains.
Use a stitch marker or waste yarn to keep track of the first stitch of each round.
If you do not want to make a Magic Ring you can start each piece by making a chain of 2 and then work the first round into the second chain from the hook.
If you would like to start with a Magic Ring but don’t know how, you can find a Photo Tutorial at:https://www.mycrochetchums.com/magic-ring-photo-tutorial.html
The Elephant is made of multiple separate pieces sewn together. Unless otherwise stated, finish each piece by pulling the yarn through the last loop and leave a long tail for sewing. Any loose tails at the end can be easily woven in.
Starting chains do not count in the total stitch count.
Unless otherwise specified this pattern is worked in the amigurumi style, in a continuous spiral without slip stitching or turning chains.
Use a stitch marker or waste yarn to keep track of the first stitch of each round.
If you do not want to make a Magic Ring you can start each piece by making a chain of 2 and then work the first round into the second chain from the hook.
If you would like to start with a Magic Ring but don’t know how, you can find a Photo Tutorial at:https://www.mycrochetchums.com/magic-ring-photo-tutorial.html
The Elephant is made of multiple separate pieces sewn together. Unless otherwise stated, finish each piece by pulling the yarn through the last loop and leave a long tail for sewing. Any loose tails at the end can be easily woven in.
Starting chains do not count in the total stitch count.
Increasing and decreasing
The “invisible” techniques below are recommended to give your amigurumi a neat finish:
Invisible Increase: Work 1 dc in FLO of next st and 1 dc in both loops of same st.
Invisible decrease: Insert hook in FLO of the two stitches to be decreased, yrh, pull through both front loops, yrh, draw through two loops on hook.
The “invisible” techniques below are recommended to give your amigurumi a neat finish:
Invisible Increase: Work 1 dc in FLO of next st and 1 dc in both loops of same st.
Invisible decrease: Insert hook in FLO of the two stitches to be decreased, yrh, pull through both front loops, yrh, draw through two loops on hook.
UK Crochet Terms - Abbreviations
This pattern is written using UK Crochet Terms - they are NOT the same as US ones - please familiarise yourself with the UK terms to avoid your character’s shape distorting!
The “dc” abbreviation used in this pattern refers to UK double crochet. The equivalent stitch in US terms is single crochet - if you are used to US patterns you need to work single crochet everywhere this pattern says “dc”. If you work US dc (equivalent to UK Treble) the finished item will be elongated and the stuffing will show through.
This pattern is written using UK Crochet Terms - they are NOT the same as US ones-please familiarise yourself with the UK terms to avoid your characters shape distorting!
If you are unfamiliar with any of the terms used in this pattern, you can find a chart of the UK Crochet terms used HERE.
If you are used to working in US Crochet Terms you can find a conversion chart HERE.
This pattern is written using UK Crochet Terms - they are NOT the same as US ones - please familiarise yourself with the UK terms to avoid your character’s shape distorting!
The “dc” abbreviation used in this pattern refers to UK double crochet. The equivalent stitch in US terms is single crochet - if you are used to US patterns you need to work single crochet everywhere this pattern says “dc”. If you work US dc (equivalent to UK Treble) the finished item will be elongated and the stuffing will show through.
This pattern is written using UK Crochet Terms - they are NOT the same as US ones-please familiarise yourself with the UK terms to avoid your characters shape distorting!
If you are unfamiliar with any of the terms used in this pattern, you can find a chart of the UK Crochet terms used HERE.
If you are used to working in US Crochet Terms you can find a conversion chart HERE.
Baby Elephant Right Side
|
Baby Elephant Left side
|
More pictures further down the page!
Body
Worked from the bottom up.
Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 6: Dc around.
Rnd 7: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnds 8:-10 Dc around.
Rnd 11: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnds 12-13: Dc around.
Rnd 14: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnds 15-16: Dc around.
Rnd 17: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 18: Dc around.
Fasten off.
Worked from the bottom up.
Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 6: Dc around.
Rnd 7: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnds 8:-10 Dc around.
Rnd 11: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnds 12-13: Dc around.
Rnd 14: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnds 15-16: Dc around.
Rnd 17: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 18: Dc around.
Fasten off.
Head
Worked from tip of trunk back. Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: Dc in BLO around.
Rnd 3: Dc around.
Rnd 4: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnd 5: 2 dc in next st, 3 dc, 1 dc2tog, 3 dc. 9 sts
Rnd 6: 1 dc, 2 dc in next st, 3 dc, 1 dc2tog, 2 dc. 9 sts
Rnd 7: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] twice, 5 dc. 11 sts
Rnd 8: 4 dc, 2 dc in next st, 4 dc, 1 dc2tog. 11 sts
Rnd 9: 4 dc, 2 dc in next st, 1 dc, 2 dc in next st, 4 dc. 13 sts
Rnd 10: 5 dc, 2 dc in next st, 1 dc, 2 dc in next st, 5 dc. 15 sts
Rnd 11: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 18 sts
Rnd 12: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 13: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 14: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnds 15-16: Dc around.
Rnd 17: [5 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 42 sts
Rnd 18: Dc around.
Rnd 19: [5 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnds 20-21: Dc around.
Rnd 22: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 23: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 24: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 25: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnd 26: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Fasten off, weave in end.
Worked from tip of trunk back. Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: Dc in BLO around.
Rnd 3: Dc around.
Rnd 4: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnd 5: 2 dc in next st, 3 dc, 1 dc2tog, 3 dc. 9 sts
Rnd 6: 1 dc, 2 dc in next st, 3 dc, 1 dc2tog, 2 dc. 9 sts
Rnd 7: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] twice, 5 dc. 11 sts
Rnd 8: 4 dc, 2 dc in next st, 4 dc, 1 dc2tog. 11 sts
Rnd 9: 4 dc, 2 dc in next st, 1 dc, 2 dc in next st, 4 dc. 13 sts
Rnd 10: 5 dc, 2 dc in next st, 1 dc, 2 dc in next st, 5 dc. 15 sts
Rnd 11: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 18 sts
Rnd 12: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 13: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 14: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnds 15-16: Dc around.
Rnd 17: [5 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 42 sts
Rnd 18: Dc around.
Rnd 19: [5 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnds 20-21: Dc around.
Rnd 22: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 23: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 24: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 25: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnd 26: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Fasten off, weave in end.
Inner Ear - make 2
Rnd 1: With CC1 and working into a magic Ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 6: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts
Fasten off, weave in end.
Rnd 1: With CC1 and working into a magic Ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 6: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts
Fasten off, weave in end.
Outer Ear - make 2
Working with MC, make the outer ear in the same way as the Inner Ear above but do not fasten off at the end of Rnd 6.
Line up the Inner and Outer Ear back to back - making sure the corners of the hexagons align - and work the following rounding MC through both loops of the Rnd 6s of both layers.
Rnd 7: [5 dc 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 42 sts
Fasten off.
Working with MC, make the outer ear in the same way as the Inner Ear above but do not fasten off at the end of Rnd 6.
Line up the Inner and Outer Ear back to back - making sure the corners of the hexagons align - and work the following rounding MC through both loops of the Rnd 6s of both layers.
Rnd 7: [5 dc 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 42 sts
Fasten off.
Leg - make 4
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic Ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: Working into BLO of each st, dc around.
Rnds 5-6: Dc around.
Rnd 7: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 15 sts
Rnds 8-10: Dc around.
Rnd 11: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 12 sts
Rnd 12: Dc around.
Rnd 13: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 4 times. 8 sts
Rnds 14-15: Dc around.
Fasten off.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic Ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: Working into BLO of each st, dc around.
Rnds 5-6: Dc around.
Rnd 7: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 15 sts
Rnds 8-10: Dc around.
Rnd 11: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 12 sts
Rnd 12: Dc around.
Rnd 13: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 4 times. 8 sts
Rnds 14-15: Dc around.
Fasten off.
Tail
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 4 dc. 4 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in the next st, 3 dc. 5 sts
Rnd 3: 2 dc in next st, 4 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 4: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] twice. 4 sts
Rnds 5-8: Dc around.
Fasten off.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 4 dc. 4 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in the next st, 3 dc. 5 sts
Rnd 3: 2 dc in next st, 4 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 4: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] twice. 4 sts
Rnds 5-8: Dc around.
Fasten off.
Eye - make 2
Rnd 1: With CC2 and working into a magic ring, 4 dc, sl st into beg st to join. 4 sts
Fasten off.
Rnd 1: With CC2 and working into a magic ring, 4 dc, sl st into beg st to join. 4 sts
Fasten off.
Baby Elephant Base
|
Baby Elephant Back
|
Making up
Using the photographs as a guide, pin the pieces together first, then use the long yarn tails or a length of yarn with a yarn needle to stitch the pieces together.
Sew the Head onto the Body.
Sew the Eyes in place at the top of the Trunk, roughly in line with Rnd 12 leaving a gap of about 4 stitches between them.
Fold the top of the Ears over and secure in this shape with a few stitches then stitch to the head about 6 rounds back from the Eyes.
Sew the front legs to the from of the Body attaching them about 4 rounds down from where the Head and Body join. Sew down the sides of the Front Legs for about 3 rounds down the Body to secure them in place.
Sew the back legs to the Body sitting on either side - roughly in line with Rnd 8 of the Body.
Sew the Tail into position on the back of the Body about in line with Rnd 7.
Using the photographs as a guide, pin the pieces together first, then use the long yarn tails or a length of yarn with a yarn needle to stitch the pieces together.
Sew the Head onto the Body.
Sew the Eyes in place at the top of the Trunk, roughly in line with Rnd 12 leaving a gap of about 4 stitches between them.
Fold the top of the Ears over and secure in this shape with a few stitches then stitch to the head about 6 rounds back from the Eyes.
Sew the front legs to the from of the Body attaching them about 4 rounds down from where the Head and Body join. Sew down the sides of the Front Legs for about 3 rounds down the Body to secure them in place.
Sew the back legs to the Body sitting on either side - roughly in line with Rnd 8 of the Body.
Sew the Tail into position on the back of the Body about in line with Rnd 7.
Baby Elephant Front
Embroidered details
Use CC3 to embroider the Highlights on the Eyes and CC1 to embroider the toes and the end of the trunk.
All done!
Use CC3 to embroider the Highlights on the Eyes and CC1 to embroider the toes and the end of the trunk.
All done!
Terms of Use
I am happy for you to donate, gift or sell any of the my crochet chums you make if you are an individual crafter - please credit mycrochetchums.weebly.com as the designer.
If you do wish to sell your my crochet chums, it is your responsibility to ensure that the finished item complies with the relevant toy legislation in your country.
Please be sure to use toy grade stuffing and do not add buttons, bells, ribbons etc that could be a danger to small children.
The patterns are copyright protected and are not for commercial use. They cannot be sold, transmitted, distributed or reproduced in any form or by any means. I’ve worked hard to create the designs - please don’t sell my patterns - it’s just plain mean!
I am happy for you to donate, gift or sell any of the my crochet chums you make if you are an individual crafter - please credit mycrochetchums.weebly.com as the designer.
If you do wish to sell your my crochet chums, it is your responsibility to ensure that the finished item complies with the relevant toy legislation in your country.
Please be sure to use toy grade stuffing and do not add buttons, bells, ribbons etc that could be a danger to small children.
The patterns are copyright protected and are not for commercial use. They cannot be sold, transmitted, distributed or reproduced in any form or by any means. I’ve worked hard to create the designs - please don’t sell my patterns - it’s just plain mean!
About mycrochetchums
I started mycrochetchums at the end of 2020 to give me something to focus on during lockdown and to make creative use of a box of Aldi Amigurumi Yarn that was an impulse purchase I was feeling guilty about!
I’m loving creating these cute characters and sharpening my tech skills in the process as I wrangle with managing a website and social media.
Check out the mycrochetchums Facebook page - drop me a message there if you have any feedback about the pattern or would like to share a picture of the end result.
You can also find me on Instagram @mycrochetchums.
Happy Crocheting!
Pia x
I started mycrochetchums at the end of 2020 to give me something to focus on during lockdown and to make creative use of a box of Aldi Amigurumi Yarn that was an impulse purchase I was feeling guilty about!
I’m loving creating these cute characters and sharpening my tech skills in the process as I wrangle with managing a website and social media.
Check out the mycrochetchums Facebook page - drop me a message there if you have any feedback about the pattern or would like to share a picture of the end result.
You can also find me on Instagram @mycrochetchums.
Happy Crocheting!
Pia x
©PIA SIMPSON/ MYCROCHETCHUMS 2021
