#lockdownamichallenge - No 14 - Crab
#lockdownamichallenge Crab
Scroll down for more pics of this little chap!
Yarn
Aldi So Crafty Knit & Purl Amigurumi Yarn - described on the box as "Light" - Equivalent to DK.
30g approx of Coral (MC)- for Body, Legs, Claws and Eyelid.
Small amount of Cream (CC1) for Eyeball and Eye Highlight.
Small amount of Brown (CC2) for Pupil and Mouth.
100% Cotton 25g = 57.5m
A cotton yarn works well for Ami as it gives good stitch definition and creates a firm structure so body parts hold their shape well. Any cotton/cotton mix DK should give similar results.
Aldi So Crafty Knit & Purl Amigurumi Yarn - described on the box as "Light" - Equivalent to DK.
30g approx of Coral (MC)- for Body, Legs, Claws and Eyelid.
Small amount of Cream (CC1) for Eyeball and Eye Highlight.
Small amount of Brown (CC2) for Pupil and Mouth.
100% Cotton 25g = 57.5m
A cotton yarn works well for Ami as it gives good stitch definition and creates a firm structure so body parts hold their shape well. Any cotton/cotton mix DK should give similar results.
Hook
3 mm
3 mm
Other Supplies
Yarn needle, toy stuffing, stitch marker/waste yarn.
Yarn needle, toy stuffing, stitch marker/waste yarn.
Tension
Tension is not critical for this project but stitches should be tight enough to avoid stuffing showing through.
Tension is not critical for this project but stitches should be tight enough to avoid stuffing showing through.
Size
Approx 15 cm (6in) wide including the legs.
Approx 15 cm (6in) wide including the legs.
Pattern Notes
Unless otherwise specified this pattern is worked in the amigurumi style, in a continuous spiral without slip stitching or turning chains.
Use a stitch marker or waste yarn to keep track of the first stitch of each round.
If you do not want to make a Magic Ring you can start each piece by making a chain of 2 and then work the first round into the second chain from the hook.
If you would like to start with a Magic Ring but don’t know how, you can find a Photo Tutorial HERE.
The Crab is made of multiple separate pieces sewn together. Unless otherwise stated, finish each piece by pulling the yarn through the last loop and leave a long tail for sewing. Any loose tails at the end can be easily woven in.
Starting chains do not count in the total stitch count.
Change colour on the last yrh on last stitch of previous round.
Unless otherwise specified this pattern is worked in the amigurumi style, in a continuous spiral without slip stitching or turning chains.
Use a stitch marker or waste yarn to keep track of the first stitch of each round.
If you do not want to make a Magic Ring you can start each piece by making a chain of 2 and then work the first round into the second chain from the hook.
If you would like to start with a Magic Ring but don’t know how, you can find a Photo Tutorial HERE.
The Crab is made of multiple separate pieces sewn together. Unless otherwise stated, finish each piece by pulling the yarn through the last loop and leave a long tail for sewing. Any loose tails at the end can be easily woven in.
Starting chains do not count in the total stitch count.
Change colour on the last yrh on last stitch of previous round.
Increasing and decreasing
The “invisible” techniques below are recommended to give your amigurumi a neat finish:
Invisible Increase: Work 1 dc in FLO of next st and 1 dc in both loops of same st.
Invisible decrease: Insert hook in FLO of the two stitches to be decreased, yrh, pull through both front loops, yrh, draw through two loops on hook.
The “invisible” techniques below are recommended to give your amigurumi a neat finish:
Invisible Increase: Work 1 dc in FLO of next st and 1 dc in both loops of same st.
Invisible decrease: Insert hook in FLO of the two stitches to be decreased, yrh, pull through both front loops, yrh, draw through two loops on hook.
UK Crochet Terms - Abbreviations
This pattern is written using UK Crochet Terms - they are NOT the same as US ones - please familiarise yourself with the UK terms to avoid your character’s shape distorting!
The “dc” abbreviation used in this pattern refers to UK double crochet. The equivalent stitch in US terms is single crochet - if you are used to US patterns you need to work single crochet everywhere this pattern says “dc”. If you work US dc (equivalent to UK Treble) the finished item will be elongated and the stuffing will show through.
If you are unfamiliar with any of the terms used in this pattern, you can find a chart of the UK Crochet terms used HERE.
If you are used to working in US Crochet Terms you can find a conversion chart HERE.
This pattern is written using UK Crochet Terms - they are NOT the same as US ones - please familiarise yourself with the UK terms to avoid your character’s shape distorting!
The “dc” abbreviation used in this pattern refers to UK double crochet. The equivalent stitch in US terms is single crochet - if you are used to US patterns you need to work single crochet everywhere this pattern says “dc”. If you work US dc (equivalent to UK Treble) the finished item will be elongated and the stuffing will show through.
If you are unfamiliar with any of the terms used in this pattern, you can find a chart of the UK Crochet terms used HERE.
If you are used to working in US Crochet Terms you can find a conversion chart HERE.
Crab Front
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Crab Back
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More pictures further down the page!
Body
Worked from the top down.
Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a Magic Ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc in next st] twice, 5 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice, 2 dc, 2 dc in next st, 3 dc, 2 dc in next st, 2 dc. 24 sts.
Rnd 5: [2 dc in next st] twice, 9 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice, [3dc, 2 dc in next st] twice, 3 dc. 30 sts.
Rnd 6: [2 dc in next st] twice, 13 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice, 4 dc, 2 dc in next st, 3 dc, 2 dc in next st, 4 dc. 36 sts
Rnd 7: 2 dc, [2 dc in next st, 3 dc, 2 dc in next st, 7 dc] twice, 2 dc in next st, 3 dc, 2 dc in next st, 5 dc. 42 sts
Rnd 8: 4 dc, 2 dc in next st, 3 dc, 2 dc in next st, 7 dc, 2 dc in next st, 3 dc, 2 dc in next st, 10 dc, 2 dc in next st, 3 dc, 2 dc in next st, 6 dc. 48 sts
Rnd 9: 4 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice, 17 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice, 11 dc, 2 dc in next st, 3 dc, 2 dc in next st, 7 dc. 54 sts
Rnd 10: Working in BLO of each st, dc around. 54 sts
Rnd 11: 5 dc, 2 dc2tog, 17 dc, 2 dc2tog, 11 dc, 1 dc2tog, 3 dc, 1 dc2tog, 6 dc. 48 sts
Rnd 12: 5 dc, 1 dc2tog, 3 dc, 1 dc2tog, 7 dc, 1 dc2tog, 3 dc, 1 dc2tog, 10 dc, 1 dc2tog, 3 dc, 1 dc2tog, 5dc. 42 sts
Rnd 13: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] twice, 7dc, 1 dc2tog, 3 dc, 1 dc2tog, 7 dc, 1 dc2tog, 3 dc, 1 dc2tog, 4 dc. 36 sts
Rnd 14: 2 dc2tog, 13 dc, 2 dc2tog, 4 dc, 1 dc2tog, 3 dc, 1 dc2tog, 4 dc. 30 sts
Rnd 15: 1 dc, 2 dc2tog, 9 dc, 2 dc2tog, [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] twice, 2 dc. 24 sts
Rnd 16: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 17: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnd 18: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Fasten off, weave in end.
Worked from the top down.
Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a Magic Ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc in next st] twice, 5 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice, 2 dc, 2 dc in next st, 3 dc, 2 dc in next st, 2 dc. 24 sts.
Rnd 5: [2 dc in next st] twice, 9 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice, [3dc, 2 dc in next st] twice, 3 dc. 30 sts.
Rnd 6: [2 dc in next st] twice, 13 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice, 4 dc, 2 dc in next st, 3 dc, 2 dc in next st, 4 dc. 36 sts
Rnd 7: 2 dc, [2 dc in next st, 3 dc, 2 dc in next st, 7 dc] twice, 2 dc in next st, 3 dc, 2 dc in next st, 5 dc. 42 sts
Rnd 8: 4 dc, 2 dc in next st, 3 dc, 2 dc in next st, 7 dc, 2 dc in next st, 3 dc, 2 dc in next st, 10 dc, 2 dc in next st, 3 dc, 2 dc in next st, 6 dc. 48 sts
Rnd 9: 4 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice, 17 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice, 11 dc, 2 dc in next st, 3 dc, 2 dc in next st, 7 dc. 54 sts
Rnd 10: Working in BLO of each st, dc around. 54 sts
Rnd 11: 5 dc, 2 dc2tog, 17 dc, 2 dc2tog, 11 dc, 1 dc2tog, 3 dc, 1 dc2tog, 6 dc. 48 sts
Rnd 12: 5 dc, 1 dc2tog, 3 dc, 1 dc2tog, 7 dc, 1 dc2tog, 3 dc, 1 dc2tog, 10 dc, 1 dc2tog, 3 dc, 1 dc2tog, 5dc. 42 sts
Rnd 13: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] twice, 7dc, 1 dc2tog, 3 dc, 1 dc2tog, 7 dc, 1 dc2tog, 3 dc, 1 dc2tog, 4 dc. 36 sts
Rnd 14: 2 dc2tog, 13 dc, 2 dc2tog, 4 dc, 1 dc2tog, 3 dc, 1 dc2tog, 4 dc. 30 sts
Rnd 15: 1 dc, 2 dc2tog, 9 dc, 2 dc2tog, [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] twice, 2 dc. 24 sts
Rnd 16: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 17: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnd 18: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Fasten off, weave in end.
Front Leg (with Pincers) - make 2
The two front legs are worked from where they will join the Body, down to the points of the pincers. Be sure to have a long starting tail, you’ll use this to sew the Front Leg to the body later.
With MC, chain 8. Do NOT turn.
Rnd 1: Looping round and starting in the first ch (to join), work 1 dc in each chain around. 8sts
Rnds 2-8: Dc around. 8 sts
Rnd 9:*[2 dc in next st] twice, 2dc; rep from * once more. 12 sts
Rnd 10: *[2 dc in next st] twice, 4 dc; rep from * once more. 16 sts
Rnd 11: 1 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice, 6 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice, 5 dc. 20 sts
Rnd 12: 8 dc, miss 12. 8 sts
Rnd 13: Starting in the first dc of prev round and ignoring the missed stitches, 3 dc, 1 dc2tog, 3 dc. 7 sts
Rnd 14: 2 dc, 1 dc2tog, 3 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 15: 2 dc, 1 dc2tog, 2 dc. 5 sts
Rnd 16; 2 dc, 1 dc2tog, 1 dc. 4 sts
Sew end of first pincer closed and weave in end. Stuff the first pincer.
To work the second pincer, join the yarn to the first unused stitch of Rnd 12, leaving a long starting tail. You will use this later to sew up the hole that will inevitably appear where the two pincers meet.
Rnd 13a: In each unused st of Rnd 12, dc around. 12 sts
Rnd 14a: 5 dc, 1 dc2tog, 5 dc. 11 sts
Rnd 15a: 5 dc, 1 dc2tog, 4 dc. 10 sts
Rnd 16a: 5 dc, 1 dc2tog, 3 dc. 9 sts
Rnd 17a: 4 dc, 1 dc2tog, 3 dc. 8 sts
Rnd 18a: 4 dc2tog. 4 sts
Use the starting tail to stitch closed the hole where the pincers meet. Stuff the second pincer but do not stuff Rnds 1-9 of the Front Leg.
The two front legs are worked from where they will join the Body, down to the points of the pincers. Be sure to have a long starting tail, you’ll use this to sew the Front Leg to the body later.
With MC, chain 8. Do NOT turn.
Rnd 1: Looping round and starting in the first ch (to join), work 1 dc in each chain around. 8sts
Rnds 2-8: Dc around. 8 sts
Rnd 9:*[2 dc in next st] twice, 2dc; rep from * once more. 12 sts
Rnd 10: *[2 dc in next st] twice, 4 dc; rep from * once more. 16 sts
Rnd 11: 1 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice, 6 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice, 5 dc. 20 sts
Rnd 12: 8 dc, miss 12. 8 sts
Rnd 13: Starting in the first dc of prev round and ignoring the missed stitches, 3 dc, 1 dc2tog, 3 dc. 7 sts
Rnd 14: 2 dc, 1 dc2tog, 3 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 15: 2 dc, 1 dc2tog, 2 dc. 5 sts
Rnd 16; 2 dc, 1 dc2tog, 1 dc. 4 sts
Sew end of first pincer closed and weave in end. Stuff the first pincer.
To work the second pincer, join the yarn to the first unused stitch of Rnd 12, leaving a long starting tail. You will use this later to sew up the hole that will inevitably appear where the two pincers meet.
Rnd 13a: In each unused st of Rnd 12, dc around. 12 sts
Rnd 14a: 5 dc, 1 dc2tog, 5 dc. 11 sts
Rnd 15a: 5 dc, 1 dc2tog, 4 dc. 10 sts
Rnd 16a: 5 dc, 1 dc2tog, 3 dc. 9 sts
Rnd 17a: 4 dc, 1 dc2tog, 3 dc. 8 sts
Rnd 18a: 4 dc2tog. 4 sts
Use the starting tail to stitch closed the hole where the pincers meet. Stuff the second pincer but do not stuff Rnds 1-9 of the Front Leg.
Small Leg - make 2
Rnd 1: With MC and working in to a magic ring, 4 dc. 4 sts
Rnd 2: [2 dc in next st, 1 dc] twice. 6 sts
Rnd 3: 2 dc in next st, 5 dc. 7 sts
Rnd 4: 2 dc in next st, 2 dc, 1 dc2tog, 2 dc. 7 sts
Rnd 5: Rep Rnd 4.
Rnd 6: 1 dc, 2 dc in next st, 2 dc, 1 dc2tog, 1 dc. 7 sts
Fasten off.
Rnd 1: With MC and working in to a magic ring, 4 dc. 4 sts
Rnd 2: [2 dc in next st, 1 dc] twice. 6 sts
Rnd 3: 2 dc in next st, 5 dc. 7 sts
Rnd 4: 2 dc in next st, 2 dc, 1 dc2tog, 2 dc. 7 sts
Rnd 5: Rep Rnd 4.
Rnd 6: 1 dc, 2 dc in next st, 2 dc, 1 dc2tog, 1 dc. 7 sts
Fasten off.
Medium Leg - make 4
Rnds 1-6: Work as for Small Leg above.
Rnd 7: Rep Rnd 6.
Rnd 8: 2 dc, 2 dc in next st, 2 dc, 1 dc2tog. 7 sts
Fasten off.
Rnds 1-6: Work as for Small Leg above.
Rnd 7: Rep Rnd 6.
Rnd 8: 2 dc, 2 dc in next st, 2 dc, 1 dc2tog. 7 sts
Fasten off.
Large Leg - make 2
Rnds 1-8: Work as for Medium Leg above.
Rnds 9-10: Rep Rnd 8 of Medium Leg above.
Fasten off.
Rnds 1-8: Work as for Medium Leg above.
Rnds 9-10: Rep Rnd 8 of Medium Leg above.
Fasten off.
Eye Lid - make 2
Rnd 1: With MC and working in to a magic Ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnd 3: Dc around.
Rnd 4: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 6 sts
Fasten off - do not close hole.
Rnd 1: With MC and working in to a magic Ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnd 3: Dc around.
Rnd 4: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 6 sts
Fasten off - do not close hole.
Eyeball - make 2
Rnd 1: With CC1 and working in to a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnd 3: Dc around.
Rnd 4: 1 dc2tog, 7 dc. 8 sts
Fasten off. Weave yarn tail through stitches of last round and pull up to close hole.
Rnd 1: With CC1 and working in to a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnd 3: Dc around.
Rnd 4: 1 dc2tog, 7 dc. 8 sts
Fasten off. Weave yarn tail through stitches of last round and pull up to close hole.
Pupil - make 2
Rnd 1: With CC2 and working in a magic ring, 4 dc. 4 sts
Join with a slip st in top of first dc.
Fasten off.
Rnd 1: With CC2 and working in a magic ring, 4 dc. 4 sts
Join with a slip st in top of first dc.
Fasten off.
Crab underside
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Crab Front Right
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Crab from above
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Making up
Using the photographs as a guide, pin the pieces together first, using the long yarn tails or a length of yarn with a yarn needle to stitch the pieces together.
The long curve is the front of the Body. Pin the Front Legs in place at either end of this curve making sure that the two smaller pincers on each of the Front Legs face inwards.
Arrange the remaining legs down the sides of the Body with the curve of them facing towards the front of the Crab. Working away from the Front Legs, pin them on in the following sequence, Medium Leg, Large Leg, Medium Leg, Small Leg.
Fit the Eyeball into the “cup” of the Eyelid and stitch the two together. Stitch the Pupils to the front of each eye. Once finished, sew both completed Eyes to the top of the Body.
Using the photographs as a guide, pin the pieces together first, using the long yarn tails or a length of yarn with a yarn needle to stitch the pieces together.
The long curve is the front of the Body. Pin the Front Legs in place at either end of this curve making sure that the two smaller pincers on each of the Front Legs face inwards.
Arrange the remaining legs down the sides of the Body with the curve of them facing towards the front of the Crab. Working away from the Front Legs, pin them on in the following sequence, Medium Leg, Large Leg, Medium Leg, Small Leg.
Fit the Eyeball into the “cup” of the Eyelid and stitch the two together. Stitch the Pupils to the front of each eye. Once finished, sew both completed Eyes to the top of the Body.
Embroidered details
Use CC1 to embroider the Highlights on the Eyes and CC2 to embroider the mouth.
All done!
Use CC1 to embroider the Highlights on the Eyes and CC2 to embroider the mouth.
All done!
Terms of Use
I am happy for you to donate, gift or sell any of the my crochet chums you make if you are an individual crafter - please credit mycrochetchums.weebly.com as the designer.
If you do wish to sell your my crochet chums, it is your responsibility to ensure that the finished item complies with the relevant toy legislation in your country.
Please be sure to use toy grade stuffing and do not add buttons, bells, ribbons etc that could be a danger to small children.
The patterns are copyright protected and are not for commercial use. They cannot be sold, transmitted, distributed or reproduced in any form or by any means. I’ve worked hard to create the designs - please don’t sell my patterns - it’s just plain mean!
I am happy for you to donate, gift or sell any of the my crochet chums you make if you are an individual crafter - please credit mycrochetchums.weebly.com as the designer.
If you do wish to sell your my crochet chums, it is your responsibility to ensure that the finished item complies with the relevant toy legislation in your country.
Please be sure to use toy grade stuffing and do not add buttons, bells, ribbons etc that could be a danger to small children.
The patterns are copyright protected and are not for commercial use. They cannot be sold, transmitted, distributed or reproduced in any form or by any means. I’ve worked hard to create the designs - please don’t sell my patterns - it’s just plain mean!
About mycrochetchums
I started mycrochetchums at the end of 2020 to give me something to focus on during lockdown and to make creative use of a box of Aldi Amigurumi Yarn that was an impulse purchase I was feeling guilty about!
I’m loving creating these cute characters and sharpening my tech skills in the process as I wrangle with managing a website and social media.
Check out the mycrochetchums Facebook page - drop me a message there if you have any feedback about the pattern or would like to share a picture of the end result.
You can also find me on Instagram @mycrochetchums.
Happy Crocheting!
Pia x
©PIA SIMPSON/ MYCROCHETCHUMS 2021
I started mycrochetchums at the end of 2020 to give me something to focus on during lockdown and to make creative use of a box of Aldi Amigurumi Yarn that was an impulse purchase I was feeling guilty about!
I’m loving creating these cute characters and sharpening my tech skills in the process as I wrangle with managing a website and social media.
Check out the mycrochetchums Facebook page - drop me a message there if you have any feedback about the pattern or would like to share a picture of the end result.
You can also find me on Instagram @mycrochetchums.
Happy Crocheting!
Pia x
©PIA SIMPSON/ MYCROCHETCHUMS 2021
