#lockdownamichallenge - No 10 - Pink Pig
#lockdownamichallenge Pig
Yarn
Aldi So Crafty Knit & Purl Amigurumi Yarn - described on the box as "Light" - Equivalent to DK
30g approx of Pink (MC)- for Body, Ears, Legs and Tail.
10g approx of Light Pink (CC1) for Nose and Trotters.
Small amount of Grey (CC2) for Eyes and Mouth.
Small amount of Purple (CC3) for Nostrils and Stars.
Small amount of White (CC4) for Eye Highlights.
100% Cotton 25g = 57.5m
A cotton yarn works well for Ami as it gives good stitch definition and creates a firm structure so body parts hold their shape well. Any cotton/cotton mix DK should give similar results.
Aldi So Crafty Knit & Purl Amigurumi Yarn - described on the box as "Light" - Equivalent to DK
30g approx of Pink (MC)- for Body, Ears, Legs and Tail.
10g approx of Light Pink (CC1) for Nose and Trotters.
Small amount of Grey (CC2) for Eyes and Mouth.
Small amount of Purple (CC3) for Nostrils and Stars.
Small amount of White (CC4) for Eye Highlights.
100% Cotton 25g = 57.5m
A cotton yarn works well for Ami as it gives good stitch definition and creates a firm structure so body parts hold their shape well. Any cotton/cotton mix DK should give similar results.
Hook
3 mm
3 mm
Other Supplies
Yarn needle, toy stuffing, stitch marker/waste yarn.
Yarn needle, toy stuffing, stitch marker/waste yarn.
Tension
Tension is not critical for this project but stitches should be tight enough to avoid stuffing showing through.
Tension is not critical for this project but stitches should be tight enough to avoid stuffing showing through.
Size
12cm (5in) approx from nose to tail.
12cm (5in) approx from nose to tail.
Pattern Notes
Unless otherwise specified this pattern is worked in the amigurumi style, in a spiral without slip stitching or turning chains.
Use a stitch marker or waste yarn to keep track of the first stitch of each round.
If you do not want to make a Magic Ring you can start each piece by making a chain of 2 and then work the first round into the second chain from the hook.
If you would like to start with a Magic Ring but don’t know how, you can find a Magic Ring Photo Tutorial HERE.
The Pig is made of multiple separate pieces sewn together.Unless otherwise stated, finish each piece by pulling the yarn through the last loop and leave a long tail for sewing. Any loose tails at the end can be easily woven in.
Starting chains do not count in the total stitch count.
Change colour on the last yrh on last stitch of previous round.
Unless otherwise specified this pattern is worked in the amigurumi style, in a spiral without slip stitching or turning chains.
Use a stitch marker or waste yarn to keep track of the first stitch of each round.
If you do not want to make a Magic Ring you can start each piece by making a chain of 2 and then work the first round into the second chain from the hook.
If you would like to start with a Magic Ring but don’t know how, you can find a Magic Ring Photo Tutorial HERE.
The Pig is made of multiple separate pieces sewn together.Unless otherwise stated, finish each piece by pulling the yarn through the last loop and leave a long tail for sewing. Any loose tails at the end can be easily woven in.
Starting chains do not count in the total stitch count.
Change colour on the last yrh on last stitch of previous round.
Abbreviations used in this pattern - UK Crochet Terms
This pattern is written using UK Crochet Terms - they are NOT the same as US ones - please familiarise yourself with the UK terms to avoid your character’s shape distorting!
The “dc” abbreviation used in this pattern refers to UK double crochet. The equivalent stitch in US terms is single crochet - if you are used to US patterns you need to work single crochet everywhere this pattern says “dc”. If you work US dc (equivalent to UK Treble) the finished item will be elongated and the stuffing will show through.
If any of the abbreviations used in this pattern are unfamiliar, you can find a chart of UK Terms HERE.
This pattern uses UK Terms -if you are used to working in US Crochet Terms you can find a conversion chart HERE.
This pattern is written using UK Crochet Terms - they are NOT the same as US ones - please familiarise yourself with the UK terms to avoid your character’s shape distorting!
The “dc” abbreviation used in this pattern refers to UK double crochet. The equivalent stitch in US terms is single crochet - if you are used to US patterns you need to work single crochet everywhere this pattern says “dc”. If you work US dc (equivalent to UK Treble) the finished item will be elongated and the stuffing will show through.
If any of the abbreviations used in this pattern are unfamiliar, you can find a chart of UK Terms HERE.
This pattern uses UK Terms -if you are used to working in US Crochet Terms you can find a conversion chart HERE.
Increasing and decreasing
The “invisible” techniques below are recommended to give your amigurumi a neat finish:
Invisible Increase: Work 1 dc in FLO of next st and 1 dc in both loops of same st.
Invisible decrease: Insert hook in FLO of the two stitches to be decreased, yrh, pull through both front loops, yrh, draw through two loops on hook.
The “invisible” techniques below are recommended to give your amigurumi a neat finish:
Invisible Increase: Work 1 dc in FLO of next st and 1 dc in both loops of same st.
Invisible decrease: Insert hook in FLO of the two stitches to be decreased, yrh, pull through both front loops, yrh, draw through two loops on hook.
Pig Front Right
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Pig Front Left
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Body
If you are unfamiliar with starting an ami pattern with a chain, check out the Oval Start Photo Tutorial HERE.
Stuff as you go.
With MC, chain 4.
Rnd 1: Starting in second chain from the hook and rotating as you go, [3 dc, 2 ch] twice. 6 sts
Rnd 2: [3 dc, 3 dc in 2 ch sp] twice.12 sts
Rnd 3: *3 dc, [2 dc in next st] 3 times; rep from * one more time. 18 sts
Rnd 4: Dc around.
Rnd 5: Working in the FLO for the whole round: 1 dc, 2 dc in next st, [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 5 times, 1 dc. 24 sts
Rnd 6: [3dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 7: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnd 8: [5 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 42 sts
Rnd 9: Dc around.
Rnd 10: [6 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 48 sts
Rnds 11-24: Dc around.
Rnd 25: [6 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 42 sts
Rnd 26: [5 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnd 27: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 28: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 29: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 30: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnd 31: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Fasten off, weave in end.
If you are unfamiliar with starting an ami pattern with a chain, check out the Oval Start Photo Tutorial HERE.
Stuff as you go.
With MC, chain 4.
Rnd 1: Starting in second chain from the hook and rotating as you go, [3 dc, 2 ch] twice. 6 sts
Rnd 2: [3 dc, 3 dc in 2 ch sp] twice.12 sts
Rnd 3: *3 dc, [2 dc in next st] 3 times; rep from * one more time. 18 sts
Rnd 4: Dc around.
Rnd 5: Working in the FLO for the whole round: 1 dc, 2 dc in next st, [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 5 times, 1 dc. 24 sts
Rnd 6: [3dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 7: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnd 8: [5 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 42 sts
Rnd 9: Dc around.
Rnd 10: [6 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 48 sts
Rnds 11-24: Dc around.
Rnd 25: [6 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 42 sts
Rnd 26: [5 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnd 27: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 28: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 29: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 30: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnd 31: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Fasten off, weave in end.
Ear - make 2
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 4 dc. 4 sts
Rnd 2: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] twice. 6 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnds 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 12 sts
Rnd 5: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 15 sts
Rnd 6: Dc around.
Rnd 7: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 18 sts
Fasten off.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 4 dc. 4 sts
Rnd 2: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] twice. 6 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnds 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 12 sts
Rnd 5: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 15 sts
Rnd 6: Dc around.
Rnd 7: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 18 sts
Fasten off.
Nose
With CC1, chain 5.
Rnd 1: Starting in 2nd ch from hook, and rotating as you go, [4 dc, 2 ch] twice. 8 sts
Rnd 2: [4 dc, 4 dc in 2 ch sp] twice. 16 sts
Rnd 3: * 4 dc, [2 dc in next st] 4 times; rep from * one more time. 24 sts
Rnd 4: Dc around.
Rnd 5: 9 dc, 1 dc2tog, 10 dc, 1 dc2tog, 1 dc. 22 sts
Fasten off. Stuff lightly.
With CC1, chain 5.
Rnd 1: Starting in 2nd ch from hook, and rotating as you go, [4 dc, 2 ch] twice. 8 sts
Rnd 2: [4 dc, 4 dc in 2 ch sp] twice. 16 sts
Rnd 3: * 4 dc, [2 dc in next st] 4 times; rep from * one more time. 24 sts
Rnd 4: Dc around.
Rnd 5: 9 dc, 1 dc2tog, 10 dc, 1 dc2tog, 1 dc. 22 sts
Fasten off. Stuff lightly.
Eye - make 2
Rnd 1: With CC2 and working in a magic ring, 4 dc. 4 sts
Join with a slip st in top of first dc.
Fasten off.
Rnd 1: With CC2 and working in a magic ring, 4 dc. 4 sts
Join with a slip st in top of first dc.
Fasten off.
Leg - make 4
With CC1 chain 4.
Rnd 1: Starting in 2nd ch from hook, and rotating as you go, [3 dc, 2 ch] twice. 6 sts
Rnd 2: [3 dc, 3 dc in 2 ch sp] twice.12 sts
Rnds 3-4: Dc around.
Change colour to MC.
Rnds 5-6: Dc around.
Rnd 7: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnd 8: Dc around.
Fasten off. Stuff legs.
With CC1 chain 4.
Rnd 1: Starting in 2nd ch from hook, and rotating as you go, [3 dc, 2 ch] twice. 6 sts
Rnd 2: [3 dc, 3 dc in 2 ch sp] twice.12 sts
Rnds 3-4: Dc around.
Change colour to MC.
Rnds 5-6: Dc around.
Rnd 7: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnd 8: Dc around.
Fasten off. Stuff legs.
Tail
With MC, chain 16.
Row 1: 2 sl st, [2 dc in next st] 11 times, 2 sl st. 22 sts (+ 4 slip stitches).
Fasten off.
With MC, chain 16.
Row 1: 2 sl st, [2 dc in next st] 11 times, 2 sl st. 22 sts (+ 4 slip stitches).
Fasten off.
Pig Rear
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Pig Underside
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Making up
Using the photographs as a guide, pin the pieces together first, using the long yarn tails or a length of yarn with a yarn needle to stitch the pieces together.
Sew Nose in position at starting end of Body.
Sew Eyes in place just above Nose.
Pin Ears in place around Rnd 11 of Body, curving them round as shown in the picture, with a gap of about 8 stitches between the two. Sew in place once you’re happy with the positioning.
The front two legs need to sit approx 8 rounds back from the bottom of the nose - they will be roughly in line with the ears when viewed from the side. Do not leave a gap between the two legs - once stitched in place they need joining with a few stitches at the top.
The two back legs need to be attached in the same way as the front ones, sitting approx 8 rounds further back on the body. Again, join the tops of the two legs where they meet in the middle.
Sew the tail in position in line with the fastening off point of the body.
Using the photographs as a guide, pin the pieces together first, using the long yarn tails or a length of yarn with a yarn needle to stitch the pieces together.
Sew Nose in position at starting end of Body.
Sew Eyes in place just above Nose.
Pin Ears in place around Rnd 11 of Body, curving them round as shown in the picture, with a gap of about 8 stitches between the two. Sew in place once you’re happy with the positioning.
The front two legs need to sit approx 8 rounds back from the bottom of the nose - they will be roughly in line with the ears when viewed from the side. Do not leave a gap between the two legs - once stitched in place they need joining with a few stitches at the top.
The two back legs need to be attached in the same way as the front ones, sitting approx 8 rounds further back on the body. Again, join the tops of the two legs where they meet in the middle.
Sew the tail in position in line with the fastening off point of the body.
Embroidered details
Use CC2 to embroider the mouth, CC3 for the Nostrils and the Stars on the Body and CC4 for the Highlights on the Eyes.
All done!
Use CC2 to embroider the mouth, CC3 for the Nostrils and the Stars on the Body and CC4 for the Highlights on the Eyes.
All done!
Terms of Use
I am happy for you to donate, gift or sell any of the my crochet chums you make if you are an individual crafter - please credit mycrochetchums.weebly.com as the designer.
If you do wish to sell your my crochet chums, it is your responsibility to ensure that the finished item complies with the relevant toy legislation in your country.
Please be sure to use toy grade stuffing and do not add buttons, bells, ribbons etc that could be a danger to small children.
The patterns are copyright protected and are not for commercial use. They cannot be sold, transmitted, distributed or reproduced in any form or by any means. I’ve worked hard to create the designs - please don’t sell my patterns - it’s just plain mean!
I am happy for you to donate, gift or sell any of the my crochet chums you make if you are an individual crafter - please credit mycrochetchums.weebly.com as the designer.
If you do wish to sell your my crochet chums, it is your responsibility to ensure that the finished item complies with the relevant toy legislation in your country.
Please be sure to use toy grade stuffing and do not add buttons, bells, ribbons etc that could be a danger to small children.
The patterns are copyright protected and are not for commercial use. They cannot be sold, transmitted, distributed or reproduced in any form or by any means. I’ve worked hard to create the designs - please don’t sell my patterns - it’s just plain mean!
About mycrochetchums
I started mycrochetchums at the end of 2020 to give me something to focus on during lockdown and to make creative use of a box of Aldi Amigurumi Yarn that was an impulse purchase I was feeling guilty about!
I’m loving creating these cute characters and sharpening my tech skills in the process as I wrangle with managing a website and social media.
Check out the mycrochetchums Facebook page - drop me a message there if you have any feedback about the pattern or would like to share a picture of the end result.
You can also find me on Instagram @mycrochetchums.
Happy Crocheting!
Pia x
I started mycrochetchums at the end of 2020 to give me something to focus on during lockdown and to make creative use of a box of Aldi Amigurumi Yarn that was an impulse purchase I was feeling guilty about!
I’m loving creating these cute characters and sharpening my tech skills in the process as I wrangle with managing a website and social media.
Check out the mycrochetchums Facebook page - drop me a message there if you have any feedback about the pattern or would like to share a picture of the end result.
You can also find me on Instagram @mycrochetchums.
Happy Crocheting!
Pia x
©PIA SIMPSON/ MYCROCHETCHUMS 2021
