#lockdownamichallenge - No 10 - Chick
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#lockdownamichallenge Chick
Scroll down for more pics!
Yarn
Aldi So Crafty Knit & Purl Amigurumi Yarn - described on the box as "Light" - Equivalent to DK
30g approx Yellow (MC) for Body, Head, Wings.
15g approx Orange (CC1) for Foot and Beak.
10 g approx White (CC2) for Belly patch and Top Knot
Small amount Black (CC3) for Eyes.
100% Cotton 25g = 57.5m
A cotton yarn works well for Ami as it gives good stitch definition and creates a firm structure so body parts hold their shape well. Any cotton/cotton mix DK should give similar results.
Aldi So Crafty Knit & Purl Amigurumi Yarn - described on the box as "Light" - Equivalent to DK
30g approx Yellow (MC) for Body, Head, Wings.
15g approx Orange (CC1) for Foot and Beak.
10 g approx White (CC2) for Belly patch and Top Knot
Small amount Black (CC3) for Eyes.
100% Cotton 25g = 57.5m
A cotton yarn works well for Ami as it gives good stitch definition and creates a firm structure so body parts hold their shape well. Any cotton/cotton mix DK should give similar results.
Hook
3 mm
3 mm
Other Supplies
Yarn needle, toy stuffing, stitch marker/waste yarn.
Yarn needle, toy stuffing, stitch marker/waste yarn.
Tension
Tension is not critical for this project but stitches should be tight enough to avoid stuffing showing through.
Tension is not critical for this project but stitches should be tight enough to avoid stuffing showing through.
Size
19 cm (7.5 in) approx from top of head to bottom of feet.
19 cm (7.5 in) approx from top of head to bottom of feet.
Pattern Notes
Unless otherwise specified this pattern is worked in the amigurumi style, in a continuous spiral without slip stitching or turning chains.
Use a stitch marker or waste yarn to keep track of the first stitch of each round.
If you do not want to make a Magic Ring you can start each piece by making a chain of 2 and then work the first round into the second chain from the hook.
If you would like to start with a Magic Ring but don’t know how, you can find a Photo Tutorial HERE.
The Chick is made of multiple separate pieces sewn together. Unless otherwise stated, finish each piece by pulling the yarn through the last loop and leave a long tail for sewing. Any loose tails at the end can be easily woven in.
Starting chains do not count in the total stitch count.
Change colour on the last yrh on last stitch of previous round.
Unless otherwise specified this pattern is worked in the amigurumi style, in a continuous spiral without slip stitching or turning chains.
Use a stitch marker or waste yarn to keep track of the first stitch of each round.
If you do not want to make a Magic Ring you can start each piece by making a chain of 2 and then work the first round into the second chain from the hook.
If you would like to start with a Magic Ring but don’t know how, you can find a Photo Tutorial HERE.
The Chick is made of multiple separate pieces sewn together. Unless otherwise stated, finish each piece by pulling the yarn through the last loop and leave a long tail for sewing. Any loose tails at the end can be easily woven in.
Starting chains do not count in the total stitch count.
Change colour on the last yrh on last stitch of previous round.
Abbreviations used in this pattern - UK Crochet Terms
This pattern is written using UK Crochet Terms - they are NOT the same as US ones - please familiarise yourself with the UK terms to avoid your character’s shape distorting!
The “dc” abbreviation used in this pattern refers to UK double crochet. The equivalent stitch in US terms is single crochet - if you are used to US patterns you need to work single crochet everywhere this pattern says “dc”. If you work US dc (equivalent to UK Treble) the finished item will be elongated and the stuffing will show through.
If any of the abbreviations used in this pattern are unfamiliar, you can find a chart of UK Terms HERE.
This pattern uses UK Terms -if you are used to working in US Crochet Terms you can find a conversion chart HERE.
This pattern is written using UK Crochet Terms - they are NOT the same as US ones - please familiarise yourself with the UK terms to avoid your character’s shape distorting!
The “dc” abbreviation used in this pattern refers to UK double crochet. The equivalent stitch in US terms is single crochet - if you are used to US patterns you need to work single crochet everywhere this pattern says “dc”. If you work US dc (equivalent to UK Treble) the finished item will be elongated and the stuffing will show through.
If any of the abbreviations used in this pattern are unfamiliar, you can find a chart of UK Terms HERE.
This pattern uses UK Terms -if you are used to working in US Crochet Terms you can find a conversion chart HERE.
Increasing and decreasing
The “invisible” techniques below are recommended to give your amigurumi a neat finish:
Invisible Increase: Work 1 dc in FLO of next st and 1 dc in both loops of same st.
Invisible decrease: Insert hook in FLO of the two stitches to be decreased, yrh, pull through both front loops, yrh, draw through two loops on hook.
The “invisible” techniques below are recommended to give your amigurumi a neat finish:
Invisible Increase: Work 1 dc in FLO of next st and 1 dc in both loops of same st.
Invisible decrease: Insert hook in FLO of the two stitches to be decreased, yrh, pull through both front loops, yrh, draw through two loops on hook.
Chick Right Side
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Chick Front
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Chick Left Side
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Body
Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc in next st, 4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: [2 dc in next st, 6 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 30 sts
Rnd 6: [2 dc in next st, 8 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 36 sts
Rnds 7-8: Dc around.
Rnd 9: 1 dc2tog, 32 dc, 1 dc2tog. 34 sts
Rnd 10: 1 dc2tog, 29 dc, 1 dc2tog, 1 dc. 32 sts
Rnd 11: 1 dc, 1 dc2tog, 27 dc, 1 dc2tog. 30 sts
Rnds 12 - 14: Dc around.
Rnd 15: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnds 16-17: Dc around.
Rnd 18: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnds 19-20: Dc around.
Fasten off.
Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc in next st, 4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: [2 dc in next st, 6 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 30 sts
Rnd 6: [2 dc in next st, 8 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 36 sts
Rnds 7-8: Dc around.
Rnd 9: 1 dc2tog, 32 dc, 1 dc2tog. 34 sts
Rnd 10: 1 dc2tog, 29 dc, 1 dc2tog, 1 dc. 32 sts
Rnd 11: 1 dc, 1 dc2tog, 27 dc, 1 dc2tog. 30 sts
Rnds 12 - 14: Dc around.
Rnd 15: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnds 16-17: Dc around.
Rnd 18: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnds 19-20: Dc around.
Fasten off.
Head
If you are unfamiliar with starting an ami pattern with a chain, check out the Oval Start Photo Tutorial HERE.
Stuff as you go.
With MC chain 4.
Rnd 1: Starting in 2nd chain from hook and rotating as you go, [3 dc, 2 ch] twice. 6 sts
Rnd 2: [3 dc, 3 dc in 2 ch sp] twice. 12 sts
Rnd 3: *3 dc, [2 dc in next st] 3 times; rep from * once more. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 6: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnd 7: Dc around.
Rnd 8: [5 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 42 sts
Rnd 9: Dc around.
Rnd 10: [5 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnd 11: Dc around.
Rnd 12: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 13: Dc around.
Rnd 14: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 15: Dc around.
Rnd 16: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 17: Dc around.
Rnd 18: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnd 19: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Fasten off, weave in end.
If you are unfamiliar with starting an ami pattern with a chain, check out the Oval Start Photo Tutorial HERE.
Stuff as you go.
With MC chain 4.
Rnd 1: Starting in 2nd chain from hook and rotating as you go, [3 dc, 2 ch] twice. 6 sts
Rnd 2: [3 dc, 3 dc in 2 ch sp] twice. 12 sts
Rnd 3: *3 dc, [2 dc in next st] 3 times; rep from * once more. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 6: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnd 7: Dc around.
Rnd 8: [5 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 42 sts
Rnd 9: Dc around.
Rnd 10: [5 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnd 11: Dc around.
Rnd 12: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 13: Dc around.
Rnd 14: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 15: Dc around.
Rnd 16: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 17: Dc around.
Rnd 18: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnd 19: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Fasten off, weave in end.
Eye - make 2
Rnd 1: With CC3 and working into a magic ring, 4 dc, sl st into first dc of round to join. 4 sts
Fasten off.
Rnd 1: With CC3 and working into a magic ring, 4 dc, sl st into first dc of round to join. 4 sts
Fasten off.
Beak
With CC1, chain 4.
Rnd 1: Starting in the second ch from the hook and rotating as you go, [3dc, 2 ch] twice. 6 sts
Rnd 2: *3 dc, [2 dc, 1 ch, 1 dc] in 2 ch-sp; rep from * once more. 12 sts
Fasten off.
With CC1, chain 4.
Rnd 1: Starting in the second ch from the hook and rotating as you go, [3dc, 2 ch] twice. 6 sts
Rnd 2: *3 dc, [2 dc, 1 ch, 1 dc] in 2 ch-sp; rep from * once more. 12 sts
Fasten off.
Top Knot
Chains are not counted in stitch count for round.
Rnd 1: With CC2 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: Working into BLO of Rnd 1, [sl st, 4 ch] 6 times. 6 sts
Rnd 3: Working into the FLO of Rnd 1, [sl st, 4 ch] 6 times, sl st into first st of rnd to join. 6 sts
Fasten off.
Chains are not counted in stitch count for round.
Rnd 1: With CC2 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: Working into BLO of Rnd 1, [sl st, 4 ch] 6 times. 6 sts
Rnd 3: Working into the FLO of Rnd 1, [sl st, 4 ch] 6 times, sl st into first st of rnd to join. 6 sts
Fasten off.
Leg - make 2
Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With CC1 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc in next st, 4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: 6 dc, 2 dc2tog, 4 dc, 2 dc2tog, 6 dc. 20 sts
Rnd 6: 6 dc, 2 dc2tog, 2 dc, 2 dc2tog, 4 dc. 16 sts.
Rnd 7: 5 dc, 4 dc2tog, 3 dc. 12 sts
Rnd 8: 3 dc, 3 dc2tog, 3 dc. 9 sts
Rnd 9: 4 dc, 1 dc2tog, 3 dc. 8 sts
Rnd10: Dc around.
Fasten off.
Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With CC1 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc in next st, 4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: 6 dc, 2 dc2tog, 4 dc, 2 dc2tog, 6 dc. 20 sts
Rnd 6: 6 dc, 2 dc2tog, 2 dc, 2 dc2tog, 4 dc. 16 sts.
Rnd 7: 5 dc, 4 dc2tog, 3 dc. 12 sts
Rnd 8: 3 dc, 3 dc2tog, 3 dc. 9 sts
Rnd 9: 4 dc, 1 dc2tog, 3 dc. 8 sts
Rnd10: Dc around.
Fasten off.
Wing - make 2
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 4 dc. 4 sts
Rnd 2: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] twice. 6 sts
Rnd 3: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] twice. 8 sts
Rnd 4: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] twice. 10 sts
Rnd 5: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] twice. 12 sts
Rnd 6: [5 dc, 2 dc in next st] twice. 14 sts
Rnd 7: [6 dc, 2 dc in next st] twice. 16 sts
Rnds 8-9: Dc around.
Rnd 10: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 4 times. 12 sts
Rnd 11: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Fasten off.
Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 4 dc. 4 sts
Rnd 2: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] twice. 6 sts
Rnd 3: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] twice. 8 sts
Rnd 4: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] twice. 10 sts
Rnd 5: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] twice. 12 sts
Rnd 6: [5 dc, 2 dc in next st] twice. 14 sts
Rnd 7: [6 dc, 2 dc in next st] twice. 16 sts
Rnds 8-9: Dc around.
Rnd 10: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 4 times. 12 sts
Rnd 11: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Fasten off.
Belly Patch
With CC2, chain 6.
Row 1: Starting in the second ch from the hook, 5 dc. Turn. 5 sts
Row 2: 1 ch, 2 dc in next st, 3 dc, 2 dc in next st. Turn. 7 sts
Row 3: 1 ch, 2 dc in next st, 5 dc, 2 dc in next st. Turn. 9 sts
Rows 4 - 6: 1 ch, dc across. Turn.
Row 7: 1ch, 1 dc2 tog, 5 dc, 1 dc2tog. Turn. 7 sts
Rows 8 - 9: 1 ch, dc across. Turn.
Rnd 10: 1 ch, 1 dc2tog, 3 dc, 1 dc2tog. Turn. 5 sts
Row 11: 1 ch, 1 dc2tog, 1 dc, 1 dc2tog. Do not turn. 3 sts
Row 12: Rotating as you go, work 1 dc in the end of each row down the side, 1 dc in each of the unused side of the foundation chain, and the same up the other side, and back across the top of Row 11, fastening off with a slip stitch at the end of that row.
With CC2, chain 6.
Row 1: Starting in the second ch from the hook, 5 dc. Turn. 5 sts
Row 2: 1 ch, 2 dc in next st, 3 dc, 2 dc in next st. Turn. 7 sts
Row 3: 1 ch, 2 dc in next st, 5 dc, 2 dc in next st. Turn. 9 sts
Rows 4 - 6: 1 ch, dc across. Turn.
Row 7: 1ch, 1 dc2 tog, 5 dc, 1 dc2tog. Turn. 7 sts
Rows 8 - 9: 1 ch, dc across. Turn.
Rnd 10: 1 ch, 1 dc2tog, 3 dc, 1 dc2tog. Turn. 5 sts
Row 11: 1 ch, 1 dc2tog, 1 dc, 1 dc2tog. Do not turn. 3 sts
Row 12: Rotating as you go, work 1 dc in the end of each row down the side, 1 dc in each of the unused side of the foundation chain, and the same up the other side, and back across the top of Row 11, fastening off with a slip stitch at the end of that row.
Chick Right Side View
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Chick Back
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Chick Base
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Making Up
Using the photographs as a guide, pin the pieces together first, using the long yarn tails or a length of yarn with a yarn needle to stitch the pieces together.
Sew the Beak in place roughly in line with Rnd 12 of the Head, centred on one of the flat sides of the Head. Sew the Eyes in place about 4 rounds higher, leaving a gap of about 4 stitches between them. Sew the Top Knot on to the top of the Head.
Sew the Body onto the Head, making sure the pointy tail part of the body is to the back.
Sew the Wings in place, in line with Rnd 16 approx of the Body.
Sew the Belly Patch onto the Body with the bottom of it sitting in line with Rnd 7 of the Body.
Sew the Legs into position, roughly in line with Rnd 4 of the Body, set forward so the Chick can sit down.
Using the photographs as a guide, pin the pieces together first, using the long yarn tails or a length of yarn with a yarn needle to stitch the pieces together.
Sew the Beak in place roughly in line with Rnd 12 of the Head, centred on one of the flat sides of the Head. Sew the Eyes in place about 4 rounds higher, leaving a gap of about 4 stitches between them. Sew the Top Knot on to the top of the Head.
Sew the Body onto the Head, making sure the pointy tail part of the body is to the back.
Sew the Wings in place, in line with Rnd 16 approx of the Body.
Sew the Belly Patch onto the Body with the bottom of it sitting in line with Rnd 7 of the Body.
Sew the Legs into position, roughly in line with Rnd 4 of the Body, set forward so the Chick can sit down.
Chick Beak Detail
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Chick Belly Detail
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Embroidered details.
Using the photos as a guide, use CC2 to embroider the highlights on the eyes and CC1 to embroider the zig-zags on the Belly Patch.
Using the photos as a guide, use CC2 to embroider the highlights on the eyes and CC1 to embroider the zig-zags on the Belly Patch.
Terms of Use
I am happy for you to donate, gift or sell any of the my crochet chums you make if you are an individual crafter - please credit mycrochetchums.weebly.com as the designer.
If you do wish to sell your my crochet chums, it is your responsibility to ensure that the finished item complies with the relevant toy legislation in your country.
Please be sure to use toy grade stuffing and do not add buttons, bells, ribbons etc that could be a danger to small children.
The patterns are copyright protected and are not for commercial use. They cannot be sold, transmitted, distributed or reproduced in any form or by any means. I’ve worked hard to create the designs - please don’t sell my patterns - it’s just plain mean!
I am happy for you to donate, gift or sell any of the my crochet chums you make if you are an individual crafter - please credit mycrochetchums.weebly.com as the designer.
If you do wish to sell your my crochet chums, it is your responsibility to ensure that the finished item complies with the relevant toy legislation in your country.
Please be sure to use toy grade stuffing and do not add buttons, bells, ribbons etc that could be a danger to small children.
The patterns are copyright protected and are not for commercial use. They cannot be sold, transmitted, distributed or reproduced in any form or by any means. I’ve worked hard to create the designs - please don’t sell my patterns - it’s just plain mean!
About mycrochetchums
I started mycrochetchums at the end of 2020 to give me something to focus on during lockdown and to make creative use of a box of Aldi Amigurumi Yarn that was an impulse purchase I was feeling guilty about!
I’m loving creating these cute characters and sharpening my tech skills in the process as I wrangle with managing a website and social media.
Check out the mycrochetchums Facebook page - drop me a message there if you have any feedback about the pattern or would like to share a picture of the end result.
You can also find me on Instagram @mycrochetchums.
Happy Crocheting!
Pia x
I started mycrochetchums at the end of 2020 to give me something to focus on during lockdown and to make creative use of a box of Aldi Amigurumi Yarn that was an impulse purchase I was feeling guilty about!
I’m loving creating these cute characters and sharpening my tech skills in the process as I wrangle with managing a website and social media.
Check out the mycrochetchums Facebook page - drop me a message there if you have any feedback about the pattern or would like to share a picture of the end result.
You can also find me on Instagram @mycrochetchums.
Happy Crocheting!
Pia x
© Pia Simpson/ My Crochet Chums 2021.
