#lockdownamichallenge No 1- Frog
#lockdownamichallenge No 1 -Frog
Scroll down the page for more pics of this cheerful little chap!
Yarn Used
Aldi So Crafty Knit & Purl Amigurumi Yarn - described on the box as "Light" - Equivalent to DK
100% Cotton
25g = 57.5 m approx
100% Cotton
25g = 57.5 m approx
30g approx Bright Green (MC)
15g approx Lime Green (CC1) for belly patch, hands and feet
Small amount White (CC2) for eye balls
Small amount Black (CC3) for pupils and facial features.
Small amount Orange/Red (CC4) for bow tie and surface embroidery
15g approx Lime Green (CC1) for belly patch, hands and feet
Small amount White (CC2) for eye balls
Small amount Black (CC3) for pupils and facial features.
Small amount Orange/Red (CC4) for bow tie and surface embroidery
Hook
3mm
3mm
Tension
Tension is not critical for this project but stitches should be tight enough to avoid stuffing showing through.
Tension is not critical for this project but stitches should be tight enough to avoid stuffing showing through.
Other Supplies
yarn needle
toy stuffing
stitch marker/waste yarn.
yarn needle
toy stuffing
stitch marker/waste yarn.
Sizing
24 cm approx from top of eyes to bottom of feet.
24 cm approx from top of eyes to bottom of feet.
Pattern Notes
Unless otherwise specified this pattern is worked in the amigurumi style, in a spiral without slip stitching or turning chains.
Use a stitch marker or waste yarn to keep track of the first stitch of each round.
The frog is made of multiple separate pieces sewn together. Unless otherwise stated, finish each piece by pulling the yarn through the last loop and leave a long tail for sewing. Any loose tails at the end can be easily woven in.
With pieces that start with a chain and have additional chains within the round, these are not counted in the total stitch count for that round.
Unless otherwise specified this pattern is worked in the amigurumi style, in a spiral without slip stitching or turning chains.
Use a stitch marker or waste yarn to keep track of the first stitch of each round.
The frog is made of multiple separate pieces sewn together. Unless otherwise stated, finish each piece by pulling the yarn through the last loop and leave a long tail for sewing. Any loose tails at the end can be easily woven in.
With pieces that start with a chain and have additional chains within the round, these are not counted in the total stitch count for that round.
Abbreviations used in this pattern - UK Crochet Terms
This pattern is written using UK Crochet Terms - they are NOT the same as US ones - please familiarise yourself with the UK terms to avoid your character’s shape distorting!
The “dc” abbreviation used in this pattern refers to UK double crochet. The equivalent stitch in US terms is single crochet - if you are used to US patterns you need to work single crochet everywhere this pattern says “dc”. If you work US dc (equivalent to UK Treble) the finished item will be elongated and the stuffing will show through.
The “dc” abbreviation used in this pattern refers to UK double crochet. The equivalent stitch in US terms is single crochet - if you are used to US patterns you need to work single crochet everywhere this pattern says “dc”. If you work US dc (equivalent to UK Treble) the finished item will be elongated and the stuffing will show through.
If any of the abbreviations used in this pattern are unfamiliar, you can find a chart of UK Terms HERE.
This pattern uses UK Terms -if you are used to working in US Crochet Terms you can find a conversion chart HERE.
This pattern uses UK Terms -if you are used to working in US Crochet Terms you can find a conversion chart HERE.
Increasing and decreasing
The “invisible” techniques below are recommended to give your amigurumi a neat finish:
The “invisible” techniques below are recommended to give your amigurumi a neat finish:
Invisible Increase: Work 1 dc in FLO of next st and 1 dc in both loops of same st.
Invisible decrease: Insert hook in FLO of the two stitches to be decreased, yrh, pull through both front loops, yrh, draw through two loops on hook.
Invisible decrease: Insert hook in FLO of the two stitches to be decreased, yrh, pull through both front loops, yrh, draw through two loops on hook.
Changing Colour
Change colour on the last yrh of the last st of the previous round.
Change colour on the last yrh of the last st of the previous round.
Frog - front
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Frog - side
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Frog - back
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Time to start crocheting!
Body
Rnd 1: With MC and working in a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24sts
Rnd 5: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 6: Dc around.
Rnd 7: [4dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnds 8-11: Dc around.
Rnd 12: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnds 13-15: Dc around.
Rnd 16: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnds 17-19: Dc around.
Rnd 20: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 21: Dc around.
Fasten off leaving a long tail. Stuff body.
Rnd 1: With MC and working in a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24sts
Rnd 5: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 6: Dc around.
Rnd 7: [4dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnds 8-11: Dc around.
Rnd 12: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnds 13-15: Dc around.
Rnd 16: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnds 17-19: Dc around.
Rnd 20: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 21: Dc around.
Fasten off leaving a long tail. Stuff body.
Head
Stuff the head as you go.
If you're flummoxed by the first two rounds -there's a photo tutorial HERE.
With MC, chain 10.
Rnd 1: Starting in 2nd ch from hook, 9 dc, 2 ch, rotating as you go, work in the other side of the chain, 9 dc, 2 ch. 18 sts
Rnd 2: [9 dc, 3 dc in 2 ch sp] 2 times. 24 sts
Rnd 3: *9 dc, [2 dc in next st] 3 times, rep from * once more. 30 sts
Rnd 4: *11 dc, [2 dc in next st] 2 times, 2dc, rep from * once more. 34 sts
Rnd 5: *13 dc, [2 dc in next st] 2 times, 2 dc, rep from * once more. 38 sts
Rnd 6-8: Dc around.
Rnd 9: [15 dc, 2 dc2tog] 2 times. 34 sts
Rnd 10: Dc around.
Rnd 11: 1 dc2tog, 13 dc, 2 dc2tog, 13 dc, 1 dc2tog. 30 sts
Rnd 12: Dc around.
Rnd 13: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 14: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 15: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnd 16: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Fasten off, weave in end.
Stuff the head as you go.
If you're flummoxed by the first two rounds -there's a photo tutorial HERE.
With MC, chain 10.
Rnd 1: Starting in 2nd ch from hook, 9 dc, 2 ch, rotating as you go, work in the other side of the chain, 9 dc, 2 ch. 18 sts
Rnd 2: [9 dc, 3 dc in 2 ch sp] 2 times. 24 sts
Rnd 3: *9 dc, [2 dc in next st] 3 times, rep from * once more. 30 sts
Rnd 4: *11 dc, [2 dc in next st] 2 times, 2dc, rep from * once more. 34 sts
Rnd 5: *13 dc, [2 dc in next st] 2 times, 2 dc, rep from * once more. 38 sts
Rnd 6-8: Dc around.
Rnd 9: [15 dc, 2 dc2tog] 2 times. 34 sts
Rnd 10: Dc around.
Rnd 11: 1 dc2tog, 13 dc, 2 dc2tog, 13 dc, 1 dc2tog. 30 sts
Rnd 12: Dc around.
Rnd 13: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 14: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 15: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnd 16: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Fasten off, weave in end.
Belly Patch
Rnd 1: With CC1 and working in a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24sts
Rnd 5: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 6: Dc around.
Fasten off leaving a long tail.
Rnd 1: With CC1 and working in a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24sts
Rnd 5: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 6: Dc around.
Fasten off leaving a long tail.
Eye Lid - make 2
Rnd 1: With MC and working in a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 15 sts
Rnds 4-5: Dc around.
Fasten off leaving a long tail.
Rnd 1: With MC and working in a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 15 sts
Rnds 4-5: Dc around.
Fasten off leaving a long tail.
Eye Ball - make 2
Rnd 1: With CC2 and working in a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnds 3-5: Dc around.
Rnd 6: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Fasten off, weave in end.
Rnd 1: With CC2 and working in a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnds 3-5: Dc around.
Rnd 6: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Fasten off, weave in end.
Pupil - make 2
Rnd 1: With CC3 and working in a magic ring, 4 dc. 4 sts
Join with a slip st into top of first dc.
Fasten off leaving a long tail.
Rnd 1: With CC3 and working in a magic ring, 4 dc. 4 sts
Join with a slip st into top of first dc.
Fasten off leaving a long tail.
Hand with Arm - make 2
Stuff hand before you change colour.
If you're flummoxed by the first two rounds -there's a photo tutorial HERE.
With CC1, chain 7.
Rnd 1: Starting in 2nd ch from hook, 6 dc, 2 ch, rotating as you go, work in the other side of the chain, 6 dc, 2 ch. 12 sts
Rnd 2: [6 dc, 1 dc in 2 ch sp] 2 times. 14 sts
Rnds 3-4: Dc around.
Rnd 5: [1 dc2tog, 5 dc] 2 times. 12 sts
Rnd 6: [1 dc2tog, 4 dc] 2 times. 10 sts
Rnd 7: [ 1 dc2tog, 3 dc] 2 times. 8 sts
Change to MC. Stuff hand lightly.
Rnd 8-9: Dc around.
Rnd 10: 1 dc2tog, 6 dc. 7sts
Rnds 11-12: Dc around.
Rnd 13: 1 dc2tog, 5 dc. 6 sts
Rnds 14-15: Dc around.
Fasten off leaving a long tail.
Stuff the bottom half of the arm lightly.
Using a length of MC with a yarn needle, sew through both thicknesses of the flattened arm about half way up it’s length, creating a seam parallel to the front edge of the hand closing the bottom half of the arm off from the top to create the bendable elbow. Weave in ends.
Stuff the top half of the arm.
Foot - make 2
With CC1, work Rnds 1-7of the Hand pattern.
Fasten off, lightly stuff foot, sew the opening closed, weave in end.
With CC1, work Rnds 1-7of the Hand pattern.
Fasten off, lightly stuff foot, sew the opening closed, weave in end.
Leg - make 2
Rnd 1: With MC and working in a magic ring, 8 dc. 8 sts
Rnds 2-5: Dc around.
Rnd 6: [1 dc2tog, 2 dc] 2 times. 6 sts
Rnds 7-12: Dc around.
Rnd 13: [2 dc in next st, 2 dc] 2 times. 8 sts
Rnds 14-17: Dc around.
Fasten off leaving a long tail.
Stuff the bottom half of the leg lightly. Sew the foot onto the bottom of the leg.
Using a length of MC with a yarn needle, sew through both thicknesses of the flattened leg about half way up the leg, creating a seam parallel to the front edge of the foot, closing the bottom half of the leg off from the top to create the bendable knee. Weave in ends.
Stuff the top half of the leg.
Rnd 1: With MC and working in a magic ring, 8 dc. 8 sts
Rnds 2-5: Dc around.
Rnd 6: [1 dc2tog, 2 dc] 2 times. 6 sts
Rnds 7-12: Dc around.
Rnd 13: [2 dc in next st, 2 dc] 2 times. 8 sts
Rnds 14-17: Dc around.
Fasten off leaving a long tail.
Stuff the bottom half of the leg lightly. Sew the foot onto the bottom of the leg.
Using a length of MC with a yarn needle, sew through both thicknesses of the flattened leg about half way up the leg, creating a seam parallel to the front edge of the foot, closing the bottom half of the leg off from the top to create the bendable knee. Weave in ends.
Stuff the top half of the leg.
Bow tie
With CC4 chain 2
Row 1: 1 dc in 2nd ch from hook, turn. 1 st
Row 2: 1 ch, 2 dc in next st, turn. 2 sts
Row 3: 1 ch, 1 dc, 2 dc in next st, turn. 3 sts
Row 4: 1 ch, 3 dc FLO, turn. 3sts
Row 5: 1 ch, 1 dc2tog, 1 dc, turn. 2 sts
Row 6: 1 ch, 1 dc2tog, turn. 1 st
Row 7; 1 ch, 1 dc, turn. 1 st
Row 8: 1 ch, 2 dc in next st, turn. 2 sts
Row 9: 1 ch, 1 dc, 2 dc in next st, turn. 3sts
Row 10: 1 ch, 3 dc FLO, turn. 3 sts
Row 11: 1 ch, 1 dc2tog, 1 dc, turn. 2 sts
Row 12: 1 ch, 1 dc2tog, turn. 1 st
Row 13: Row 7; 1 ch, 1 dc, turn. 1 st
Fasten off leaving a long tail.
With CC4 chain 2
Row 1: 1 dc in 2nd ch from hook, turn. 1 st
Row 2: 1 ch, 2 dc in next st, turn. 2 sts
Row 3: 1 ch, 1 dc, 2 dc in next st, turn. 3 sts
Row 4: 1 ch, 3 dc FLO, turn. 3sts
Row 5: 1 ch, 1 dc2tog, 1 dc, turn. 2 sts
Row 6: 1 ch, 1 dc2tog, turn. 1 st
Row 7; 1 ch, 1 dc, turn. 1 st
Row 8: 1 ch, 2 dc in next st, turn. 2 sts
Row 9: 1 ch, 1 dc, 2 dc in next st, turn. 3sts
Row 10: 1 ch, 3 dc FLO, turn. 3 sts
Row 11: 1 ch, 1 dc2tog, 1 dc, turn. 2 sts
Row 12: 1 ch, 1 dc2tog, turn. 1 st
Row 13: Row 7; 1 ch, 1 dc, turn. 1 st
Fasten off leaving a long tail.
Making up.
Using photograph as a guide, use yarn needle and yarn tails to sew pieces together, pinning in place first.
Sew Belly Patch to Body. Sew Body to Head. Sew Eye Balls into Eye Lids then Pupils onto Eye Balls. Sew top of Legs to Body. Sew Arms onto sides of Body. Fold the ends of the Bow tie into the centre and stitch in place - wrap yarn round middle of bow tie 3 times to create narrow central strip and then sew Bow Tie in place on seam between Body and Head.
Embroidered details.
Using photograph as a guide, embroider highlights on Pupils using CC2, Nostrils and Mouth on Head using CC3 and Star detail on Body using CC1 and CC4.
Using CC4 whip stitch over the ends of the hands and feet, pulling the yarn up tightly to create the “fingers” and “toes”.
Using photograph as a guide, use yarn needle and yarn tails to sew pieces together, pinning in place first.
Sew Belly Patch to Body. Sew Body to Head. Sew Eye Balls into Eye Lids then Pupils onto Eye Balls. Sew top of Legs to Body. Sew Arms onto sides of Body. Fold the ends of the Bow tie into the centre and stitch in place - wrap yarn round middle of bow tie 3 times to create narrow central strip and then sew Bow Tie in place on seam between Body and Head.
Embroidered details.
Using photograph as a guide, embroider highlights on Pupils using CC2, Nostrils and Mouth on Head using CC3 and Star detail on Body using CC1 and CC4.
Using CC4 whip stitch over the ends of the hands and feet, pulling the yarn up tightly to create the “fingers” and “toes”.
Terms of Use
I am happy for you to donate, gift or sell any of the my crochet chums you make if you are an individual crafter - please credit mycrochetchums.weebly.com as the designer.
If you do wish to sell your my crochet chums, it is your responsibility to ensure that the finished item complies with the relevant toy legislation in your country.
Please be sure to use toy grade stuffing and do not add buttons, bells, ribbons etc that could be a danger to small children.
The patterns are copyright protected and are not for commercial use. They cannot be sold, transmitted, distributed or reproduced in any form or by any means. I’ve worked hard to create the designs - please don’t sell my patterns - it’s just plain mean!
© Pia Simpson My Crochet Chums 2020
I am happy for you to donate, gift or sell any of the my crochet chums you make if you are an individual crafter - please credit mycrochetchums.weebly.com as the designer.
If you do wish to sell your my crochet chums, it is your responsibility to ensure that the finished item complies with the relevant toy legislation in your country.
Please be sure to use toy grade stuffing and do not add buttons, bells, ribbons etc that could be a danger to small children.
The patterns are copyright protected and are not for commercial use. They cannot be sold, transmitted, distributed or reproduced in any form or by any means. I’ve worked hard to create the designs - please don’t sell my patterns - it’s just plain mean!
© Pia Simpson My Crochet Chums 2020
